Also watch my video on how to clean and rebuild the E-revo 2.0 differentials: ruclips.net/video/9JHQrY82LTY/видео.html Also watch my video on how to clean and rebuild the E-revo 2.0 gearbox: ruclips.net/video/xU--OYtv93M/видео.html In this video i will show you step by step how to take your brushless motor apart, how to clean it, how to maintain it and how to put it back together. I will also tell you about the risks of running a dirty motor. Not alll motors are exacly the same, but all brushless motors work very similar and are also maintained very similarly.
Thank you. You answered a few questions I had. I have my motor apart right now and I was tempted to take off that little glue like stuff that they put on for balancing lol thank you.
💪🏻 All brushless motors are in principle the same, and are about 95% the same. Having a sensored motor is a little bit different because it hws sensors in thecrear endcap. But thats about all the variation there is. If you like this video, i have more DIY video's. About differentials and servo's which also are in principle all the same👌🏻.
@@tomekzaborowski2156 Your welcome! Good luck! The BLX motor is in principle exacly the same! If you need help removing the bearing from the end cap watch this video: ruclips.net/video/RYmXny0oqj0/видео.html Removing bearing from aluminium housings doesnt have to be diffucult. Warning: if you burn the bearing you need to replace it. and dont burn your rotor :D
@@tomekzaborowski2156 N.P. Than the bearings really died. Is the rest of the motor still ok? Isolation is not damaged as it is with my rotors in the video? Make sure you take all the small balls out of the motor housing (stator) as they can damage the rotor. Motorbearing i normally buy via aliexpress. Make sure its an abec3 or higher (5, 7 or 9) and metal sealed bot rubber sealed. Good luck!
Nice video! So the bearings are essentially point of failure? Could you simply put the bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner? Recoiled them reinsert? What is the purpose of the insulation around the motor?
Thank you!💪🏻 The bearings can be a weak point especially when you have a motor with plastic end caps. Like in this Traxxas motor in the rear, or the X-maxx motor on both ends. When the bearings fail/lock up they will rotate inside the plastic housing causing it to melt. The the rotor will scrape the inside of the stator. Causing critical failure. (Rotor = axle/rotating part, stator = outside of the motor with the copper windings) You car clean the bearing using a ultra sonic cleaner, no problem there. But then you need to regrease the bearing witch couses a problem. "There are 3 kinds of grease". Liquid, solid and a bit inbetween. Liquid is oil, solid is a solid greas (sorry dont know how to explain it🙈) and then there is a greas thats a bit inbetween. Small rc bearing come from factory with solid grease. Small bloks between the balls inside the bearing. When the bearing rotate the greace is forced againts the balls making it "self lubricating". But eventually the bearing will run dry. Oil and half solid/liquid greace will spin out off the bearing because it is to "thin". Making your whole engine greasy on ths inside and dirt will stick to it. Causing exsesive wear. This forms a problem for motor bearings. Also when a bearing runs dry or has dirt on the inside bearing will wear out resulting in play or inbalance in the bearing. So the best thing for motor bearing is to replace them. The isolation on the rotor/axle is to keep the magnets on the rotor/axle. When it is rotating "centrifugal force" (you can google it) will be created. The isolation will keep the magnets in position. When the isolation breaks the magnets will damage the stator causing critical damage that results in a useless motor.
Thank you👌🏻 I looked it up but it is the same plastic endcap. So if you need a new one thats great but fortunatly it is not an aluminium upgrade endcap. But good to know it exist 💪🏻😎
@@remborc yeah. I had same problem with this motor. This is a better aluminum one. But I couldn’t find one around me. ruclips.net/video/ilVFnVZgyEg/видео.html
@@doduyphuongkevin I think he took that from n old Traxxas 2200kV motor. Because before traxxas made their own electronics (motor / esc) they used mamba / castle electronics. And those where with aluminium endcaps. In his comment section he also writes he took it from an older motor.
I blew up this motor in my e revo 2.0 and I want to replace it with another brand. Do you know which motor brand can i use for the e revo 2.0 and which motor brand do you recommend ?
There are several brands that you can use depending on your budget. And a few other things that are important. First of all, i recoment not trowing away your old motor. When you buy a new motor you can solder the old connecters to it so it will fit the Traxxas esc. Then there are more people who had/have the same problem. Some blew the "Stator" some blew the "rotor" (you can google those terms if you dont know them). Ifyou blew the stator you can sell your rotor or vice versa. Some people might need it. Or maybe somebody is selling the stator/rotor you need and then you can rebuild your motor. When buying a new motor i would recoment a few thing: -A motor with a full aluminium end caps for durability -A motor with the same size because longer and thicker motors wont fit -A motor with similar kV rating. Going below 2000kV will make the car to slow and going above 2400kV might generate to much heat in the motor. With a 2200kV motor and a 46/17 gear combination i can drive pretty safe regarding motor temperatur (with big cooling fan) and reach decent speeds/pull lots of wheelies and fun for bashing For brand of motors i would recomend: -Castle creations 2200kV its expensive but its a beast of a motor! -A second hand Traxxas 2200kV motor -A second hand BLX 2050kV motor -A "X-team" motor from ali express +/-50$ -A "Krunrc" motor from ali express +/-50$ -A Hobbywing motor i believe a 2250kV motor There is a difference in preformance but it is coherend to the price you pay. The aliexpress motors are fine but will be running a bit hotter under load. The Castle motor is great i have that in my E-revo 2.0 as well and i have a 1600kV castle motor in my Slash for speedruns (its to long to fit the E-revo but i would have been awesome!). Hobbywing is always a safe and good choice with a good price/quality balance if you ask me. Good luck and if you need help or more information than let me know.
In your e revo 2.0 are you using the castle 1515 sensored motor or the sensorless motor? Are you using some fans with it and what are they? Also for the hobbywing motor would you recommend the 4274 sensorless motor for it with the traxxas esc?
@@orhunturkdonmez4847 I drive sensorless in all my cars. I had a Mugen MBX eco that was sensored but i sold it. Sensored driving is nice. Is it worth the cost in an E-revo for bashing? If you ask me, no. Maybe if you will race the E-revo then yes to get that small extra push/extra throttle control. The HW 4274 and the Castle 1515 are both good choices. I have the 1515 in my E-revo with the VXL-6S esc. I had a MXL2 esc but after 6 years it died🙈. But both the 4274 and the 1515 work good with the VXL-6S. I think you dont even have to resolder the plugs, the 4274 and 1515 fit without adjustment to the VXL-6S.
@@orhunturkdonmez4847 For cooling i use my self made aluminium fanmount thats fits perfectly arround the 1515. On top i place a 40*40*10mm fan that runs on a maximum of 7,4V. I have them for sale but i dont have my own webshop jet.... I have a domain but thats it. I currently sell everything from "marktplaats" witch is a doughter company of Ebay. Marktplaatst is used for 95% only in the Netherlands.
The bearing where running with resistance. Overall the motor wgere functioning fine. But i know dust can get in the motor so cleaning it once per few months is aways a good idea. And when the bearing dont feel to good excange them because the motor can go up to 60.000RPM and is the fastest moving part in the whole car.
Hello commenting once again lol, what size bearings does the e revo motor use? Can’t seem to find that info anywhere, might’ve missed it if you mention it here
@@V8chump The bearing size is 5*16*5mm or bearing number "625". You can buy ceramic bearing, but i recomend abec 3 (or higher if you want to make it expensive) with a metal seal. Just stainless steel bearings.👌🏻
I buy 90% of all my bearings on aliexpress. I look for "abec 3 metal sealed" bearings. And use those for my motors. For all the other bearings in the rc cars i use rubbersealed bearings. If i need the bearing fast (within 1 or 2 bisness days) i go to my local hardware store witch is still cheaper than an rc store. If you live in the netherlands i can give you a few dutch websites that sell bearings.
@@tijn3004 Sorry, ik heb ie reactie helemaal gemist! @rainbowfish4579 Bij deze webshops vind je zn beetje alles!: Lagerboer.nl lagerkoning.nl twenty4bearings.nl lagerwereld.nl Maar heb je geduld en kun je een weekje wachten dan hebben ze zn beetje alles bij ali.
In the contrary, i grease nothing in the motor! Everythong that you grease, dirt of dust will stick to it. It doesnt matter what grease you use. Grease is water repallent thou, but a brushless motor is water resistand. But it is best to open and dry after it gets wett so the magnets and the metal core dont rust. Back to the grease, i alway replace my bearing in the motor and never regrease old ones. Thos is because of 3 main reasons: 1. when a bearing it wothout grease it wears down fast especially running so fast. This means that there is more play on the bearings and at 60.000rpm chances of mechanical failure rise. Also mechanical bearing failure can cost you the motor because it can damage the copper wire of magnet. 2. regreasing bearings is always messy, thus attracting more dirt. 3. Regreasing bearings is always done woth liquid grease, and when that gets hot or spins arround verry fast it tents to leak out of the bearing covering the inside of the motor with grease and attracting more dirt. Barings are the only part that move in the motor that need grease. That is why i always replace my bearings with bearing that are greased from factory. This is a solid grease and does not leak out when getting hot or spinning fast. I a lot of bashers motors that i use i place aliexpress bearing and that works fine! Just make sure the bearings are metal sealed (rubber sealed does not like the motor heat), the correct size and are "abec 3" or higher. Abec is a measurement system in with they state how much play a bearing car have.
@@remborc hi, I have my bearings but I can’t get off the inner race of the old bearing stuck on armature. Did you ever run into this before. I posted a video to show what I’m referring to. Assuming it’s supposed to come off. I think it’s the old center of the bearing and has to come off. I’ve tried everything can’t get it.
@@brianu33 I have watched and commented on your video. But also check this video of me out: ruclips.net/video/RYmXny0oqj0/видео.html Make sure you dont burn your fingers or the isolation of the rotor while taking the inner ring off. Now that i think or it, maybe it is possible to cut the inner ring with a small file or small saw. But make sure you dont damage the axle/shaft or the rotor itself. I would try to heat it first, could be done in 20 second in comparison to saw it in 2 pieces.
The piston in the center of the internals is moving freely in relation to the yellow part, I take it that's a mechanical failure. Even one of the caps with the balancing glue is spinning freely.
according to your discription it sounds like mechanical failure. When you heat metal it gets bigger and when you cool it, it gets smaller. This goes by 0,00001mm (realy small)! How they build the rotor (center internal rotating part) is that they heat the part that contains the balancing gleu (so its gets bigger) and place it over the axle and let is cool down. When its cooled down its fixed in position. This connection probably broke by accidentally excessive force (mechanical failure) maybe with bashing? I dont know how to fix this as this should be a fixed connection at roomtemperature and re-heating it and letting it cool down does not work anymore due to wear. Maybe use supergleu, but first degrease it propperly with brake cleaner. If it works it works. if it doesnt, well that you did not lose anything because now it also doesnt work😅
@@remborc Surprisingly enough, it broke while going around 5mph, then going for a wheelie on concrete. The truck was already rolling, and I didn't floor it either. Disappointing to say the least. I was doing standard jumps, never crash landed or landed on power. In-fact when I was done jumping, it ran for about an additional 10 minutes before the wheelie. My guess is I ran the motor too hot as I did do 2 speed runs across a grass field like 2 minutes before the break. I'll try the glue, if it doesn't work I'm screwed for awhile. Just how it is I guess Lol, I appreciate your fast reply. You deserve more viewers.
@@TheColJoker Thank you, i appriciate it! Thats a bog bummer that is broke while practically doing nothing. I had the same with my original 2085 servo from my X-maxx. The gears broke while it was standing still😅 Untill that point i did some minor bashing with it. Succes with the repair! And i hope it will work out for you💪🏻
@@remborc First try didn't hold. I gave up for a month and a half. Tried again with JB weld instead of super glue, it made it through a Bash, full throttle, wheelies and all. Apparently a mechanical failure of your rotor can be fixed with a little bit of JB weld, even if just for a run or two lmao. I couldn't believe it made it through the first 5 seconds let alone a full charged run.
Thats a pitty! You have several options. -Contact Traxxas for a replacement rotor (or a Traxxas dealer/store) Maybe it can be replaced under warranty -Look for a secondhand rotor (motor) via marketplaces online -Buy a new motor (same one) or a simmilar motor. Hobbywing has great motors (max 8 2200kV) of a mamba motor (a bit more expensive) or some other brand. I have bought a secondhand Leopard motor for my X-maxx and i am quite happy with it and price wise its a good deal. But also check your stator (mantle of the motor with the copper wires) maybe it is damaged on the inside deu to the "exploded" rotor. So only replacing the rotor wont fix your motor. For witch car is the motor?
I thought that Traxxas stoppen their colaboration with castle a few years ago. Because Traxxas has now their own Velineon line, 3S, 4S 6S and 8S. And i thought that the E-maxx, E-revo and XO-1 were the last cars that they used castle for. And the E-revo and E-maxx are not beign made/sold anymore the only car from Traxxas with Castle electronics is the X0-1 at this time. I still have a E-maxx that came with Castle electronics. That motor says Castle on the endcap and the endcap is from aluminium. The motor wires are isolated with silicone, Traxxas uses cloth/plastic isolation.
Its a bad idea if the motor (aluminium) and screws (stainless steel) get wet and stay wet. Than a chemical reation starts betweet the two different materials that can cause they will "bind" together and it will be verry difficult to loosen. But this can also hapoen with steel screws if they start to rust. These motor will stay clean and dry (i will only drive onroad and in clean condition). But if they get wet you can simply unscrew them, dry them and fasten it. Its the same with aluminium parts like arms, hubs, motormounts and other. With bad maintenece SS and steel screws will most like get stuck in there. I drive all my RC cars with arround 95% SS screws (crawler, speedrunners and bashers) and dont run into the problems mentioned above. It gives a nicer and cleaner look if you ask me :D
Also watch my video on how to clean and rebuild the E-revo 2.0 differentials:
ruclips.net/video/9JHQrY82LTY/видео.html
Also watch my video on how to clean and rebuild the E-revo 2.0 gearbox:
ruclips.net/video/xU--OYtv93M/видео.html
In this video i will show you step by step how to take your brushless motor apart, how to clean it, how to maintain it and how to put it back together.
I will also tell you about the risks of running a dirty motor.
Not alll motors are exacly the same, but all brushless motors work very similar and are also maintained very similarly.
Thank you. You answered a few questions I had. I have my motor apart right now and I was tempted to take off that little glue like stuff that they put on for balancing lol thank you.
Glad to hear i could help👌🏻
Good luck rebuilding the motor!
Je bent handig
Bedankt voor de tips
Graag gedaan 🤙🏻
You just taught me so much I have a Castle Creations 6900 KV but the principles the same for other Motors thank you
💪🏻 All brushless motors are in principle the same, and are about 95% the same. Having a sensored motor is a little bit different because it hws sensors in thecrear endcap. But thats about all the variation there is.
If you like this video, i have more DIY video's.
About differentials and servo's which also are in principle all the same👌🏻.
I love learning this stuff
Some things look quite difficult but turn out to be pretty easy.
Good to hear i could help! Now enjoy your clean and smooth running electromotor👌🏻
Thanks for help ,i try rescue my blx arrma motor,
@@tomekzaborowski2156 Your welcome!
Good luck!
The BLX motor is in principle exacly the same!
If you need help removing the bearing from the end cap watch this video:
ruclips.net/video/RYmXny0oqj0/видео.html
Removing bearing from aluminium housings doesnt have to be diffucult. Warning: if you burn the bearing you need to replace it. and dont burn your rotor :D
@@remborc my Problem is bearings
@@tomekzaborowski2156 you cannot get them out or you dont know where to buy new ones?
Balls out an rings damage i need definitly New, thanks for you answer
@@tomekzaborowski2156 N.P.
Than the bearings really died. Is the rest of the motor still ok? Isolation is not damaged as it is with my rotors in the video?
Make sure you take all the small balls out of the motor housing (stator) as they can damage the rotor.
Motorbearing i normally buy via aliexpress. Make sure its an abec3 or higher (5, 7 or 9) and metal sealed bot rubber sealed.
Good luck!
Nice video! So the bearings are essentially point of failure? Could you simply put the bearings in an ultrasonic cleaner? Recoiled them reinsert? What is the purpose of the insulation around the motor?
Thank you!💪🏻
The bearings can be a weak point especially when you have a motor with plastic end caps. Like in this Traxxas motor in the rear, or the X-maxx motor on both ends. When the bearings fail/lock up they will rotate inside the plastic housing causing it to melt. The the rotor will scrape the inside of the stator. Causing critical failure. (Rotor = axle/rotating part, stator = outside of the motor with the copper windings)
You car clean the bearing using a ultra sonic cleaner, no problem there. But then you need to regrease the bearing witch couses a problem. "There are 3 kinds of grease". Liquid, solid and a bit inbetween. Liquid is oil, solid is a solid greas (sorry dont know how to explain it🙈) and then there is a greas thats a bit inbetween. Small rc bearing come from factory with solid grease. Small bloks between the balls inside the bearing. When the bearing rotate the greace is forced againts the balls making it "self lubricating". But eventually the bearing will run dry. Oil and half solid/liquid greace will spin out off the bearing because it is to "thin". Making your whole engine greasy on ths inside and dirt will stick to it. Causing exsesive wear. This forms a problem for motor bearings. Also when a bearing runs dry or has dirt on the inside bearing will wear out resulting in play or inbalance in the bearing. So the best thing for motor bearing is to replace them.
The isolation on the rotor/axle is to keep the magnets on the rotor/axle. When it is rotating "centrifugal force" (you can google it) will be created. The isolation will keep the magnets in position. When the isolation breaks the magnets will damage the stator causing critical damage that results in a useless motor.
Also you can use Traxxas 3482 Rebuild Kit that plastic end cap upgrade from traxxas
Thank you👌🏻
I looked it up but it is the same plastic endcap. So if you need a new one thats great but fortunatly it is not an aluminium upgrade endcap. But good to know it exist 💪🏻😎
@@remborc yeah. I had same problem with this motor. This is a better aluminum one. But I couldn’t find one around me.
ruclips.net/video/ilVFnVZgyEg/видео.html
@@doduyphuongkevin I think he took that from n old Traxxas 2200kV motor. Because before traxxas made their own electronics (motor / esc) they used mamba / castle electronics. And those where with aluminium endcaps. In his comment section he also writes he took it from an older motor.
I blew up this motor in my e revo 2.0 and I want to replace it with another brand. Do you know which motor brand can i use for the e revo 2.0 and which motor brand do you recommend ?
There are several brands that you can use depending on your budget. And a few other things that are important.
First of all, i recoment not trowing away your old motor. When you buy a new motor you can solder the old connecters to it so it will fit the Traxxas esc. Then there are more people who had/have the same problem. Some blew the "Stator" some blew the "rotor" (you can google those terms if you dont know them). Ifyou blew the stator you can sell your rotor or vice versa. Some people might need it. Or maybe somebody is selling the stator/rotor you need and then you can rebuild your motor.
When buying a new motor i would recoment a few thing:
-A motor with a full aluminium end caps for durability
-A motor with the same size because longer and thicker motors wont fit
-A motor with similar kV rating. Going below 2000kV will make the car to slow and going above 2400kV might generate to much heat in the motor. With a 2200kV motor and a 46/17 gear combination i can drive pretty safe regarding motor temperatur (with big cooling fan) and reach decent speeds/pull lots of wheelies and fun for bashing
For brand of motors i would recomend:
-Castle creations 2200kV its expensive but its a beast of a motor!
-A second hand Traxxas 2200kV motor
-A second hand BLX 2050kV motor
-A "X-team" motor from ali express +/-50$
-A "Krunrc" motor from ali express +/-50$
-A Hobbywing motor i believe a 2250kV motor
There is a difference in preformance but it is coherend to the price you pay. The aliexpress motors are fine but will be running a bit hotter under load. The Castle motor is great i have that in my E-revo 2.0 as well and i have a 1600kV castle motor in my Slash for speedruns (its to long to fit the E-revo but i would have been awesome!). Hobbywing is always a safe and good choice with a good price/quality balance if you ask me.
Good luck and if you need help or more information than let me know.
In your e revo 2.0 are you using the castle 1515 sensored motor or the sensorless motor? Are you using some fans with it and what are they? Also for the hobbywing motor would you recommend the 4274 sensorless motor for it with the traxxas esc?
@@orhunturkdonmez4847 I drive sensorless in all my cars. I had a Mugen MBX eco that was sensored but i sold it.
Sensored driving is nice. Is it worth the cost in an E-revo for bashing? If you ask me, no. Maybe if you will race the E-revo then yes to get that small extra push/extra throttle control.
The HW 4274 and the Castle 1515 are both good choices. I have the 1515 in my E-revo with the VXL-6S esc. I had a MXL2 esc but after 6 years it died🙈. But both the 4274 and the 1515 work good with the VXL-6S. I think you dont even have to resolder the plugs, the 4274 and 1515 fit without adjustment to the VXL-6S.
@@remborc Do you use some fans to cool it down and if you use it what are they?
@@orhunturkdonmez4847 For cooling i use my self made aluminium fanmount thats fits perfectly arround the 1515. On top i place a 40*40*10mm fan that runs on a maximum of 7,4V. I have them for sale but i dont have my own webshop jet.... I have a domain but thats it. I currently sell everything from "marktplaats" witch is a doughter company of Ebay. Marktplaatst is used for 95% only in the Netherlands.
Did either have alot of resistance before you took apart and cleaned?
The bearing where running with resistance. Overall the motor wgere functioning fine. But i know dust can get in the motor so cleaning it once per few months is aways a good idea.
And when the bearing dont feel to good excange them because the motor can go up to 60.000RPM and is the fastest moving part in the whole car.
Hello commenting once again lol, what size bearings does the e revo motor use? Can’t seem to find that info anywhere, might’ve missed it if you mention it here
I did not mention the bearing size. I dont know the beacing size on the top of my head. Ill have to check it when i am back home.
@@remborc alright thanks 😁 looking to go ceramic shielded bearings for the best temps/lifespan possible
@@V8chump The bearing size is 5*16*5mm or bearing number "625". You can buy ceramic bearing, but i recomend abec 3 (or higher if you want to make it expensive) with a metal seal. Just stainless steel bearings.👌🏻
Where did you get your bearings?
I buy 90% of all my bearings on aliexpress. I look for "abec 3 metal sealed" bearings. And use those for my motors. For all the other bearings in the rc cars i use rubbersealed bearings.
If i need the bearing fast (within 1 or 2 bisness days) i go to my local hardware store witch is still cheaper than an rc store. If you live in the netherlands i can give you a few dutch websites that sell bearings.
Welke winkels hebben ze?
@@remborcZou u kunnen vertellen om welke winkels het gaat? Alvast bedankt!
@@tijn3004 Sorry, ik heb ie reactie helemaal gemist!
@rainbowfish4579
Bij deze webshops vind je zn beetje alles!:
Lagerboer.nl
lagerkoning.nl
twenty4bearings.nl
lagerwereld.nl
Maar heb je geduld en kun je een weekje wachten dan hebben ze zn beetje alles bij ali.
Do you lube or grease anything. I hear some say they grease bearing to keep dirt off it.
In the contrary, i grease nothing in the motor!
Everythong that you grease, dirt of dust will stick to it. It doesnt matter what grease you use.
Grease is water repallent thou, but a brushless motor is water resistand. But it is best to open and dry after it gets wett so the magnets and the metal core dont rust.
Back to the grease, i alway replace my bearing in the motor and never regrease old ones. Thos is because of 3 main reasons:
1. when a bearing it wothout grease it wears down fast especially running so fast. This means that there is more play on the bearings and at 60.000rpm chances of mechanical failure rise. Also mechanical bearing failure can cost you the motor because it can damage the copper wire of magnet.
2. regreasing bearings is always messy, thus attracting more dirt.
3. Regreasing bearings is always done woth liquid grease, and when that gets hot or spins arround verry fast it tents to leak out of the bearing covering the inside of the motor with grease and attracting more dirt.
Barings are the only part that move in the motor that need grease. That is why i always replace my bearings with bearing that are greased from factory. This is a solid grease and does not leak out when getting hot or spinning fast.
I a lot of bashers motors that i use i place aliexpress bearing and that works fine! Just make sure the bearings are metal sealed (rubber sealed does not like the motor heat), the correct size and are "abec 3" or higher. Abec is a measurement system in with they state how much play a bearing car have.
@@remborc hi, I have my bearings but I can’t get off the inner race of the old bearing stuck on armature. Did you ever run into this before. I posted a video to show what I’m referring to. Assuming it’s supposed to come off. I think it’s the old center of the bearing and has to come off. I’ve tried everything can’t get it.
@@brianu33 I have watched and commented on your video. But also check this video of me out:
ruclips.net/video/RYmXny0oqj0/видео.html
Make sure you dont burn your fingers or the isolation of the rotor while taking the inner ring off.
Now that i think or it, maybe it is possible to cut the inner ring with a small file or small saw. But make sure you dont damage the axle/shaft or the rotor itself.
I would try to heat it first, could be done in 20 second in comparison to saw it in 2 pieces.
The piston in the center of the internals is moving freely in relation to the yellow part, I take it that's a mechanical failure. Even one of the caps with the balancing glue is spinning freely.
according to your discription it sounds like mechanical failure.
When you heat metal it gets bigger and when you cool it, it gets smaller. This goes by 0,00001mm (realy small)!
How they build the rotor (center internal rotating part) is that they heat the part that contains the balancing gleu (so its gets bigger) and place it over the axle and let is cool down. When its cooled down its fixed in position.
This connection probably broke by accidentally excessive force (mechanical failure) maybe with bashing?
I dont know how to fix this as this should be a fixed connection at roomtemperature and re-heating it and letting it cool down does not work anymore due to wear. Maybe use supergleu, but first degrease it propperly with brake cleaner.
If it works it works. if it doesnt, well that you did not lose anything because now it also doesnt work😅
@@remborc Surprisingly enough, it broke while going around 5mph, then going for a wheelie on concrete. The truck was already rolling, and I didn't floor it either. Disappointing to say the least. I was doing standard jumps, never crash landed or landed on power. In-fact when I was done jumping, it ran for about an additional 10 minutes before the wheelie. My guess is I ran the motor too hot as I did do 2 speed runs across a grass field like 2 minutes before the break.
I'll try the glue, if it doesn't work I'm screwed for awhile. Just how it is I guess Lol, I appreciate your fast reply. You deserve more viewers.
@@TheColJoker Thank you, i appriciate it!
Thats a bog bummer that is broke while practically doing nothing.
I had the same with my original 2085 servo from my X-maxx. The gears broke while it was standing still😅 Untill that point i did some minor bashing with it.
Succes with the repair! And i hope it will work out for you💪🏻
@@remborc Here's to hoping, lol. Though I'm almost certain I'm f---ed lmao.
@@remborc First try didn't hold. I gave up for a month and a half. Tried again with JB weld instead of super glue, it made it through a Bash, full throttle, wheelies and all. Apparently a mechanical failure of your rotor can be fixed with a little bit of JB weld, even if just for a run or two lmao. I couldn't believe it made it through the first 5 seconds let alone a full charged run.
My motor core/rotor exploded. Idk how to find a proper sized replacement. Any help anyone, please and thank you 🙏
Thats a pitty!
You have several options.
-Contact Traxxas for a replacement rotor (or a Traxxas dealer/store) Maybe it can be replaced under warranty
-Look for a secondhand rotor (motor) via marketplaces online
-Buy a new motor (same one) or a simmilar motor. Hobbywing has great motors (max 8 2200kV) of a mamba motor (a bit more expensive) or some other brand. I have bought a secondhand Leopard motor for my X-maxx and i am quite happy with it and price wise its a good deal.
But also check your stator (mantle of the motor with the copper wires) maybe it is damaged on the inside deu to the "exploded" rotor. So only replacing the rotor wont fix your motor.
For witch car is the motor?
That come out of a Traxxas ox 1 or E-Revo you do know that's a castle motor
I thought that Traxxas stoppen their colaboration with castle a few years ago. Because Traxxas has now their own Velineon line, 3S, 4S 6S and 8S. And i thought that the E-maxx, E-revo and XO-1 were the last cars that they used castle for. And the E-revo and E-maxx are not beign made/sold anymore the only car from Traxxas with Castle electronics is the X0-1 at this time.
I still have a E-maxx that came with Castle electronics. That motor says Castle on the endcap and the endcap is from aluminium. The motor wires are isolated with silicone, Traxxas uses cloth/plastic isolation.
Ss screws are a bad idea.
They gall and turn your motor to scrap.
Its a bad idea if the motor (aluminium) and screws (stainless steel) get wet and stay wet.
Than a chemical reation starts betweet the two different materials that can cause they will "bind" together and it will be verry difficult to loosen. But this can also hapoen with steel screws if they start to rust.
These motor will stay clean and dry (i will only drive onroad and in clean condition). But if they get wet you can simply unscrew them, dry them and fasten it.
Its the same with aluminium parts like arms, hubs, motormounts and other. With bad maintenece SS and steel screws will most like get stuck in there.
I drive all my RC cars with arround 95% SS screws (crawler, speedrunners and bashers) and dont run into the problems mentioned above. It gives a nicer and cleaner look if you ask me :D