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@@ShadeTree_RC Thank you :D After this i made carbonfiber links, that was also a lot of work but it helped save a lot of weight on the TRX!

@@BigCrazyManiac Your welcome!! Good luck working on the car :D

@@amberwilliams9950 Or he sounds like me :D

@@philiph9578 That is a motormount i make myself. It makes placing a 40mm motor with mod. 1 gears very easy. Its also prety crash proof as i crashes my Slash a few times. One time at 195kmph and the mount was still perfects.

@remborc awesome work! I have an og slash 4x4 I've been trying to get to 100mph but I'm having a hell of a time finding a aftermarket motor mount for the og hcg chassis.

@@philiph9578 Thank you! And that is why i made one myself :D Same as the chassis plate, wings and some other small parts. I have driven it 202kmph on 6S and then the esc cutted off. The mount survived a 195kmph crash so its quite sturdy. I have made it from an 5mm aluminium plate and copied the original traxxas mount, but just changed the motor holes to a 40mm motor and changed the amound off gearmesh i can set. It was drilling and grinding by hand. Take it slow and take your time and you can make one yourself. It doesnt have to be perfect. Making it +/-1mm on the outer contour is not a problem! Only real thing is the 4 holes for the motor, should be +/-0,5mm and drill the hole 0,5mm bigger and it always fit!

@@johnmurner2418 For the X-maxx and XRT the pinion gear is different. But it is inposible to switch front/rear because of the bearing placement. I think i have my X-maxx for 5 years now, for one year i have fitted it with an XLX2. And i have never shimmed my differentials and never had a broken diff. But i always check the play if it needs shimming. If you want to get a feeling for my driving style (i dont drive like an old lady :D) i have posted some nice bash videos from the X-maxx without shimmed diffs. From time to time you also see other X-maxxes drive by and an XRT (from friends) also without shimmed diffs.

@@Tomerus_NL Dank je!! Dat vind ik altijd leuk om te horen :D De slijtage van de diffcups waar de dogbones in gaan is altijd wel een gingetje. Het gebeurd altijd maar door je rijstijl en onderhouds schema aan te passen kun je de levensduur wel verlengen. Om zomaar op basis van een paar zinnen een andere auto te adviseren vind ik lastig. Dit is sterk afhankelijk van wat je verwachtingen zijn van een nieuwe auto. Ik kan je nu alvast vertellen dat rijden gelijk staat aan onderhoudt! Rijden = sleutelen Om de levenaduur van de drive cups te bevorderen kun je de volgende punten in acht nemen: -Maar met regelmaar de drive cup schoon van binnen met bijvoorbeeld een tandenborsten of wattenstaafje. Zand en ander viezigheid in de cup verhogen de slijtage -Smeer de drive cup, maar alles wat je smeert trekt vuil aan. Dit is een afweging die je zelf moet maken! Ik gebruik zelf WD40 PTFE spray om na iedere rit de drive cups een beetje in te spraien. Niet teveel! Al het overtollige wrijf ik daarna weg. -De dogbones bevatten van die pinnetjes in de uiteindes. Die slijten ook en krijgen platte kanten. Dit versnelt het slijtage proces van de drive cup. Als je een beetje handig bent kun je met een fietsketting pons die pinnetjes er uit drukken en er nieuwe in zetten ipv de hele as te vervangen. Je moet wel even een plek vinden waar je dezelfde maat pinnen kunt kopen. -Je rijstijl bepaald sterk de mate van slijtage. Je gas/rem hendel is niet binair (alleen aan of uit). Bouw gas en rem op in een "rustige" curve ipv aan de trigger te trekken alsof het een aan/uit knop is. Je mag 100% vlammen geen probleem, alleen neem een seconde of 2 de tijd om naar de 100% te gaan, remmen idem dito. -Hoe sneller je auto hoe hoger de slijtage -Rij je offroad? Dan verhoog je de slijtage door vuil maar ook door oneffe ondergronden en springen. Wat "klappen" geeft op je aandrijf lijn. -Je zou kunnen kijken of er upgrade cups bestaan die dikker of sterker zijn. Of van dezelfde kwaliteit voor minder geld. (zo gebruik ik GPM in mn X-maxx en heb ik het idee dat die niet sterker zijn maar wel de helft kosten via ali)

@@remborc onwijs bedankt voor je uitgebreide reactie en advies. Ik neem het ter harte.

@@Tomerus_NL Graag gedaan :D Mocht je nog tips over onderhoudt nodig hebben. Ik heb het e.e.a. aan DIY videos gemaakt voor schokdempers, differentielen en motoren. Het is dan misschien niet speciefiek jouw onderdeel maar het principe kan wel worden overgenomen.

@@remborc Ik ben letterlijk je kanaal aan het bingewatchen.. heel interessant. M'n vrouw denkt dat ik in mijn midlifecrisis ben beland 😁

@@Tomerus_NL Haha :D Ouder worden hoort er bij, opgroeien is een keus :P

@@allscalerc Thank you! You damn right its for speedruns :D Last year i drove it 208kmph on 6S with the Limitless body. This year has been a slow year due to weather conditions but i have ran it 212 with a Ford C100 body (video needs to be edited). With my Slash i have made several speedruns this season and i have beaten my PB almost every time, now it sits at 202kmph. (this video also needs to be edited)

@@Joe_Gaismeier Why?

@@JasonGunn418 Thank you!!

@@cyclecats Thank you! 0 play is prefereble but unfeaseble. I bought a lot of shims and rubber O rings via ali to eliminate as much play as possible on all parts (arms, wheelhubs, axles and stub axles). I also made parts myself for the steering mechanism. I have made quite a few videos for my Slash and Limitless. And i have made several videos about part like diffs and shock setup. Maybe those can help you for setting up your car even better. I have watched your 86mph 1/16 losi 2wd run thats bonkers! Just a few ideas for your car: -Maybe add a front wing for extra downforce so you dont wheelie? -If you dont have enough space for a battery, maybe consider a differeny body. Maybe deltaplastics of bittydesign have a fitting GT body -If heat is an issiue consider doing only one run and let the electronics cool down (also after a failed partial run) -Good choice on the remote! It has so much functions i dont use all. But it has build in lounch control making accelerating much easier! Look it up -A castle esc is always nice! Does if have datalogging? if yes, read it after driving it will give you a lot of valueble information (some guide rules: Ripple can be maximum 10% if your voltage on 3S 1,26V, Voltage dipp preferbly less than 0,5V per cell)

@@OGRadGrow Thank you very much!!

@@MrJustincommon this is my charging setup: ruclips.net/video/4Q-XYcCNBUo/видео.html I just put it on maximum power but if you have a powerfull charger you can charge these lipos on 11A

@@zash721 Thank you! Keep in mind this is a "big aas cappack" :D If you want to 3D print the parts for yourself and make your own cappack the downloads are avaible in this link: cults3d.com/en/users/Noud/3d-models I work together with Noud (he is my 3D print guy, i am the 3D engineer) i have made 2 type of pack, one that is almost the same as in this video but smaller. You can make this one dubble or singel. And i have a big cappack model. If you have any quastions just ask!

Thank you!! I have made a lot of parts myself and made some serious changes to the car making a HCG chassis drive this fast :P

I dont drive the Hoons, they are for drifting and i use then to work on the car. I only speedrun with foams. Before i drove with GRP's but i had a few bad sets of tires so i discarted all off them

@@SubZ3ro907 Thank you! Be my guest, ill watch your Ripple video!

@@SubZ3ro907 Thank you! And your welcome!

@@SubZ3ro907 True that! Its easy and anybody can do it and you really save your motor

@@Evilslayer73 What brand and how many turns motor is it? Edit: Not all brushed motors are build in such a way that you can replace the brushes. You can already buy a good brushed motor for 15€ (so sometimes fixing a motor is to much work)

@@andreabetti9018 I can try to explain how it works and what it does. But there people on YT that do it better than i can type here in the comments :P Whatch this video: ruclips.net/video/bMVF0ONVRiY/видео.htmlsi=5w6t9AgtUdhg1I2o P.S.: you dont always need a cappack and if you do it does not need to be as big as i build one. I build it so big because i can.

Most manufacturers put a couple capacitor on their ESC's from the factory. Companies like Castle Creations dont always do this. ESC's such as the Mamba XLX2 MUST HAVE a cap pack added. These ESC's are 1 of the most powerful ones avaliable. You see them in alot of hardcore builds. Heres an example. Lets Say your doing a top speed build, When you give your rc full throttle, it pulls on the batteries very hard. If your batteries voltage sags below a certain point, the esc sees it as a dying battery and not a sag. So the esc will start cutting out and then as the voltage rises it will kick back in. Now.....this happens hundreds of times per second. This is known as "Ripple" A capacitor pack can store enough power to smooth out these ripples, and allow you to get the most out of your build and batteries. If you use a data logging esc such as a castle XLX2, you can actually see what these ripples look like. Power ripples can cause heat build up in the system and can damage your esc and battery if left unchecked.

@@DaveKoko Your welcome! And thank you! I also have a video on how to cut a body (if you still need to cut) where i explain step by step how to do that :D

@@m.p1976Congrats :D I am rebuilding the Limitless, made some parts myself that i want to test and it will be a GT from now on. The Slash is ready to go now after crashing it: ruclips.net/video/1Gm5KDy-kzo/видео.htmlsi=1Py1yzkayg-8mD_6

@@tomekzaborowski2156 Your welcome! Good luck! The BLX motor is in principle exacly the same! If you need help removing the bearing from the end cap watch this video: ruclips.net/video/RYmXny0oqj0/видео.html Removing bearing from aluminium housings doesnt have to be diffucult. Warning: if you burn the bearing you need to replace it. and dont burn your rotor :D

@@remborc my Problem is bearings

@@tomekzaborowski2156 you cannot get them out or you dont know where to buy new ones?

Balls out an rings damage i need definitly New, thanks for you answer

@@tomekzaborowski2156 N.P. Than the bearings really died. Is the rest of the motor still ok? Isolation is not damaged as it is with my rotors in the video? Make sure you take all the small balls out of the motor housing (stator) as they can damage the rotor. Motorbearing i normally buy via aliexpress. Make sure its an abec3 or higher (5, 7 or 9) and metal sealed bot rubber sealed. Good luck!

@@thierryc.8360 Almost, the Netherlands :D

@@glObOfad365 Thank you! I did not use the original masking tape. For some reason i never get it on right... so i use 18mm tape in miltiple lines and cutted it into the windows shape once it is applied to the body. When painting different collors you want to give the paint some time to dry, at room temperature 15 minutes is ok to apply another layer. If you want the previous layer not to interfere with the one you are currently laying the best thing to do is to use a "closing" layer. For example, i did 3 layers of silver for the whole body and closed it off with black (i believe 2 layers). Next to the red (its purple/pink) i made white line. i put the white first in 2 layers and that painted it red. The red shines throu the white making it a very light red.

@@L2theWcarscoffeelife Thank you :D Enjoy the videos! I know exacly what went wrong and i will make a video soon. I have almost rebuilded the Slash and have made some new improved parts.

@@kennysilvers-z4x Thank you :D Now i know not to crash the car. Crashed the Slash at 195 a few weeks ago with minor paint damage. But i dont know what paint was used, i bought it painted. ruclips.net/video/UKVWWUmbV2k/видео.html

@@KUDRARACING Your welcome, thank you for watching :D

@@Shellzwick I had a mamba 6S in my e-maxx that worked for years and years, i think 7. That the bec broke.... The XLX-2 is the only one that blew up. It happened during a testdrive, i drove maybe 300mtrs and i blew up. Luckely no real damage to the car and other parts. I like the programmabillity and datalogging :D along with the power. Its something HW did not have at the time i bought the XLX2. Now with the new G2 versions of the HW series i am curious to try one but i dont need a new esc right now :P

@@remborc yeah I been satisfied so far with every hobbywing I purchased . Castle is a bit pricey

@@Shellzwick That is treu, hobbywing is a lot cheaper and surely delivers a punch! I had my Max6 for more than 4 years in the X-maxx untill this video :P Never complained about the HW. I also had HW in my Mugen MBX8 eco and i still have HW in my TRX-4 and they drive awesome. ruclips.net/video/kPI654lqjbE/видео.html Here you can really see what a max6 can do in a X-maxx. Noud and I are both driving the max6. He with the 1100kV hw motor and i with a 1050kV Leopard motor. We use different gearing but still kick ass!!

@@remborc yeah I run a max5 in my xmaxx .

@@Shellzwick That is very nice :D I always wanted a max-5 in my X-maxx, but i bought mine second hand and it already had a max-6. I never came to it to switch it. Than last winter i switched the XLX2 from the Limitless to the X-maxx. As the Limitless is still under contruction from a Limitless to a GT car. What else do you drive?

@@dutchjoker2682 Heey Were are you from?

@@remborc Nederland, in de buurt van Breda. Altijd opzoek naar mooie locaties. Regelmatig spreken we met Dutch Arrma forum af in Limburg (andere merken zijn ook welkom😜)

@@dutchjoker2682 Ik heb een paar weken terug nog met Dutch Arrma forum gereden in Limburg :D Daar is deze van: ruclips.net/user/shortso3gxzdq3iIg?feature=share Volledige video ben ik nog mee bezig. Van het huidige filmpje dit was in omgeving Venlo. Er zijn hier meerdere leuke plekken om te rijden. Zoals: ruclips.net/video/UKVWWUmbV2k/видео.html ruclips.net/video/5Ct0tNafIvA/видео.html ruclips.net/video/_6eiA-oU3n4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/oXMOR6Lj9Ho/видео.html Er zijn er nog meer maar het wisseld een beetje. Vaak rijden we ook op bouwgrond en zo om het half jaar verlies je wat maar komt er ook weer wat nieuws bij.

@@remborc ahh ja bij die meeting was ik er niet bij. Er staan er weer 2 gepland. 27 juli en 17 augustus

@@dutchjoker2682 Ik zou even moeten checken of ik de 27ste kan en niet in Duitsland zit

Or run into your foot.... Than you can shrink a few shoe sizes down.

@remborc 😂coool , brother, I love your content. I love watching about RC i spent my time drawing RC and making chassis, especially i love working engine RC cars, so I hope I can get one one day or built by myself🙏🙏

@@weronicecat3852 Thank bro! That is nice :D designing and making your own chassis. Good luck with the build :D

​@remborc thank you for appreciating my efforts and keep your self safe all the way God be with you❤❤❤

2 reasons -because i can and with the aluminium plate it makes nu difference airodynamic wise -i had a Slash before i started running and it was hcg. At that time i was unaware about the hcg/lcg conversionkit Traxxas sells and i did not know what parts needed to be changed if i would buy everything sepparate.

I gues nobody :P. I could have zoomed out a bit and put that in the video so i looks perfect. But i wanted to keep it real. Same at with my other DIY video's, sometimes its not perfect. Thank you! I am also happy with the result. Now i am planning to paint a GT body for the Limitless but its hard to think of a nice collor sceme. Atleast i have cutted the body and it fits!

Thank you! Good luck painting your car :D

Thats why i was waiting so long for traffic to clear. Its a one way road, 800mtrs long inbetween intersections without side roads. The green lane to the opposite side of the road is 5mtrs wide. Normally i drive on a sunday, than there is no traffic.

I know.... I already orderd new parts and started making a new chassis plate. I think the problem was in the bellcrank system. I am trying to make new parts for that one to.

Thank you! It is pretty fast, thats what made me a bit nervous. The run before i did 196 :D

Yeah i know.....It sucks but ill live I took the Slash apart and i think its the bellcrank that had to much play and thats why it swiveled while braking