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RC OVERHEATING TIPS || Motor, ESC, Body Holes
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2018
- Temp Gun: bit.ly/2M8EqWB
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#rc #rccars #rcracing
Any OG's in here remember using those optional heat sinks on the ESC's in the brushed motor days?
LRP OPC SR
Anodised blue press fit which would fly off 30sec into every run😊
Back in the old days I went one better. wrapped small diameter copper tubing around motor and flushed ice water thru the tubing just before the race. that was in the mid to late 80's. don't know if that would be legal now
I'm running one on my MI, which is something I bought many years ago to have fun with. I also run a heatsink on the motor in that car.
Tinker Aholic now that’s racing lol
Had the old tekin esc's with the two small gold heat sinks.....those were the days.
Great tips hun. I bit the bullet couple weeks ago and got an old xb4 15. Running it in 13.5 blinky. Ran it for the first time last week. Big learning curve after running tc and on road for so many years. Last time I owned and raced a buggy way 27 years ago and that was a tamiya falcon. Enjoying it so far brings a big smile to your face. Buy I will always be a tc girl first.
Meanwhile I'm over here and my motor is like 75° cooler than where it could be because I was racing at an I door track in the cold Canadian winter, perks of living where the air hurts your face 👌
I love that. My motor sits very cool since its only 50 out right now and it has a cooler on it. My esc on the other hand. Overheats in about 2 mins. Lol
Air hurts my face in airzona when its 125 degrees f 🤣😂
Great and very informative video! I personally also like to change the timing of the motor in order to degrease the temps when I'm out of pinions or if the motor is running consistently hot regardless of the gearing. I have also noticed that if you run low timing and high gearing, the efficiency of the motor is much better than if you ran high timing and low gearing while sustaining the same level of power output.
Great advice and very much agree!
Nice tips Ryan, To keep my cars cool I stay living in the uk, it's always cold here, lol
I'm not a racer but a basher.. but I stumbled across the WTF (wild turbo fan) branded fans and they are some serious air pushers. A bit more expensive than a standard fan but they move no less than 3× the air. Offered in 25mm, 30mm and 40mm. Those looking into cooling fans I highly recommend the WTF brand. Tried one myself and now gonna be replacing all my other fans with that brand. On my 8th buggy just a 40mm WTF fan on 6v on a fan mount dropped my motor temps 30°F. Ebay is where I found them easily.
When i first plug in that fan i said wtf never seen a fan that powerful
koolaid water fountains for the fat kids Yes, WTF is very power, and it support 8.4v, so you can connect battery straightly
Thanks!
Bit late but I just got a good deal on a TLR 22 5.0 with a brushed motor and one of these WTF fans in it.. putting a hobbywing combo in it this week, but keeping the fan now!
Came across your videos recently. Getting back into the hobby. Especially not stuck at home during coronavirus era. Thank u for great videos.😊
Very informative video! Many probably don’t or just plainly forget about how heat differs during different outside temps and track conditions. I live in Wisconsin so it is basically freezing 8 months out of the year.
I actually am watching this video while at our local track. The building we run in is not temp controlled and today it just hit over 100F today outside but in the building I just temp'ed the railing that is on the drivers stand and its 116F there and 109F at track level. So I really only have 50-70 degrees to play with when before temps too high personally for me. I usually try to gear without a fan up until it got over 85F outside then I had to starting running a fan on the motor. Only part I personally hate now is that if the fan stops working I could loose a $100 motor (Could be more or less). Cooling is needed in the summer where I race....and a parka is needed in the winter......I love it
With my 4wd buggy i use a low profile heatsink for a 12th scale pan car as well as a fan. Its shape helps fit under the body (this also depends on what body you use).
When I was racing in the summer in Nevada. Once we were off the track we had small desk fans blowing on the electronics to help keep them cool between races and practice times to help keep the temp down.
In oval racing we disable thermal protection. Also keep in mind after esc reaches a certain piont the esc will reduce power. But normally 150 to.170 in oval racing is acceptable.
Best video on temp control ever made!🔨🔨
Awesome Info! I have Both ! An ESC fan and a Motor fan! And I'm way ahead on the whole body venting idea! That's exactly what everyone needs to do to keep their vehicle as cool as possible!
Awesome vid... I would also throw in drive train, and free moving parts... especially for beginners, if you have any drag, or resistance in the drivetrain, overheating will also occur. Keep the vids coming...
Very true!
Great job thumps up,,,, keeping a close eye on temp can help find other problems as well like bearings that may start binding because it will as expected make the temps climb so if you know everything is in check that could be something to look at.. I was running a 1/10 scale 4wd truck and noticed it was getting hotter than normal it turns out it was the front differential bearings but I hadn't noticed any lack of power or anything at that point just a little spike in my motor temp.... Again thumbs up brother it's the simple things people forget to watch could save some money..
I installed a brushless setup in one of my Tamiya 4WD buggies and just cuz I didn't know what the car could handle or how the system would react to the vehicle I made it where the cooling fins of the esc stuck out of the body just in case so heat wouldn't be an issue. turns out the set up was good and the cooling fins sticking out looked kinda cool so that is how I ran it.
I dont know what and OG is but i remember those days. I remember where you had to keep up with your springs and your brushes if you wanted the max performance out of your vehicle.
I also remember the first time i saw a brushless system. It was an article done by RC Car Action and they had 2 Avox brushless systems on a clod buster with a racing chassis. The article was good but the truck was sooooooooo sweet.
When i ran my t-maxx i thought it would be cool to give it a scoop so i did so and put the breather in the scoop, using aluminum tubingto keep the air cool as it traveled to the engine.
I cut cooling holes in the front and back like the nitro cars and that helps 😊
Bro your the best rc cars RUclipsr 💯👌
Good video, you forgot to mention that you need to carefully adjust your ESC (Thermal protection) when adjustable , a lot of motor thermistor do not relay good readings for motor temperature and this is why a lot of people have fake thermal shutdowns due to the motor giving the ESC a way to high temp reading . I prefer motor without temp readings but for those who has it I adjust the Thermal protection Higher and carefully monitor the outside temps of what I consider OK for ME ( not higher than 165 F )
Hey buddy been follower now for a few weeks and been binge watching your videos as just come back in to the hobby and funny thing is I was looking for ways to keep temps down a bit better with my new brushless system as I'm happy with the speed but want to keep the temps as cool as possible .
Funny thing is when I was racing years ago I used to make holes near my ESC and motor and people used to wonder what the hell I was doing . I took race car idea that if it keeps a petrol car cool that it will help with a RC .
So going to give it a go as I don't like gearing down to much .
Also picked up on the polishing hinge pins etc for less friction awesome tip that made suspension is miles smoother .
Keep up the good work bud .
Hey Ryan forst things forst your the reason I got into buggy racing number two I built my body out of duck tape it’s basically got like two hood scoops like house find on a car on the top of the roof along with a fan on the esc thanks for your freal videos and I hope racing continues to make you happy
One tip i can share in regards to aftermarket fans is keep them from being too close as some rotors can actually stop the fan and cause it to fail. Learned the hard way on two different fans. Some motors it's not an issue but the stronger ones will definitely stop the fan and cause them to eat themselves.
Very informative thanks!
Keep up the excellent work
High temperatures in South Africa can often be challenging
Jive Africa hello fellow south african
another good way to improve cooling of the esc is changing the stock thermal pads under heatsink with something like thermall grizzly carbonaut (be careful they say it's conductive so put it only where it should be - on the top of transistors and not just over whole pcb)
Just race in the UK where it is too cold to get hot lol. Great vids buddy
lol Lucky you!
I’m australia. Motor wants to explode in 5 mins. It gets really hot
Good vid. Would love to know what temp is recommended.
For most of my 1/10 off road stuff I stay at or under 150
Ryan Harris Thanks!
@@RyanHarrisRC well i have a 4wd slash i have stock gears i will
use the same esc heat sink. Will it cool down.
@Ryan Harris, Another way that I use is for 1/10th motors you can turn down the timing on the end bell of the motor can.
Thanks for this video I had my first race last night and was in a commanding lead and boom overheated 🥵 will try these tips
Great tips, The fans really make a difference. I once had a wire block my ESC's fan and when I even tried touching it, it straight up burnt me. It was indoors too, where My ESC usually doesn't get Even warm with The fan on (I don't really run it without it since I run mod and therefore don't care about the weight as much)
Especially in this Florida heat. Good vid
I use a shroud helps direct air to the motor works pretty good.
thumbs up and subscribed.
The Ardncraft B64 and J-Five Designs B64 fan mount/shroud are a much better solution for keeping the 13.5 wheeler cool than just sticking a fan at the back of the motor. It dropped my temperature 20-30F compared to the fan in the back, and that is exactly what they advertise. If anyone needs the link for those just ask, but a Google search will bring them up.
I think I’m under geared with the stock gear ? I usually get just as hot going fast as super slow, so do I gear up for going faster because I want to go a bit faster and keep it cooler , would gearing up help the up end speed heat? Edit: I’m mostly doing long stretches of speed
Good informative video!
The video is awesome but for someone new getting back into the hobby needs to to know what should the temps be at or around after runs
Should not be higher than 90 degrees celsius.
Great timely video good tips for hot racing
I have a TLR 22-4 2.0 4WD Buggy in my 22-4 2.0 4wd I have a reedy 510R Blackbox I use the programmer 2 box that came with the 510R to turn things like the Drive frequency down and certain braking parameters up and adjust throttle settings.
I run a 16t pinion with a spur that's 81t to 86t on my hobbywing mod motor and a blue heatsink that slides onto the motor, I set the timing on my mod motor at around 34 to 38. With the way my silencer body sits on the buggy awesome ventilation front to rear.
The body does have pre marked spots you can ream out with a body reamer for extra air flow if needed. A heatsink on the motor geared with a 16t pinion and 81t to 86t spur and low settings in my 510R Blackbox is how I run with ventilation front to rear no problems running on a full charged 5 to 10min run on my 6300mah 7.6v 2s shorty.
Wow.Whats really funny is i mounted up a new fan for my 4 wheel and went to Mills to practice today.
Outside in Colorado is prob a bit dif than where your at. The content of sand or i.e dirty soil and loose conditions are more prevalent . The outside temperature can still get high , mid 90s. So air flow holes are common in bodies but its a necessity ( in my opinion to cva glue faucet screens cut down to the inside the body to curve the amount of debris that can enter these openings
I was having the same prob and I thought it was the battery at first, because I don’t have a esc fan cooler but instead it has a heat sync for the esc. The people who built the kit in the factory half-fast built it, so then they put the esc in the middle of the servo and the 550 brushed motor. So since it was in the middle the heat sink wasn’t getting any air flow. So I moved the heat sink in it’s own spot to get air when driving, and it drove just fine without any problems. But I still do want to get a cooler fan for my rc.
Does throttle frequency create/reduce motor and ESC heat?
Good video i will try some of your suggestions. A lot of them i didn't know about.
Love these kind of videos!! So informational..helps us out here alot!:) love all the vids but I definitely appreciate these ones!! thank you sir!
Hopefully you get this. I just bought a 22t 4.0. I wanted to know what electronics you would run. I can’t seem to find any good place to make a hood recommendation. I know there are slot out there. I like your set ups but can’t tell what you run. I’m just an amateur looking to have fun. I’m not into competing. Thanks man. Keep up the awesome videos
Show Nice vídeo
New subscriber. Love my rcs
Maintainance and new bearings seems to work.
Quick question
Can I run a 12v 0.6A rated cooling fan on a 12.6v 12A power supply or will it smoke up?
Well done Ryan!!
On a old vintage car I got from my neighbour the motor was cooked and the ESC has no heat sink with 6 MOSFETs sandwiched together ...I added a 25mm fan to the under side pushing up and mounted it on brass bars 10mm off the base and split each MOSFET just enuf so it's got a gap and glued a heat sink to the tip of them with the fan running not stop off the battery if it's plugged in. .with a used drill motor it's now insane and it's the battery getting hot now cos it's able to draw so much current now continuously so I custom made a 4p2s lion battery from 8x 18650s and now I'm thinking next time il put a 30-35mm fan in one end on a switch so when it's got heat shrink on it draws air thru the battery directly
Here, in NYC, in the summer I run 2 fans on my buggies. One mionted on the waterfall, pulling hot air from the motor and other mounted on the chassis (B6s) by the timing plate, blowing fresh air to the motor. So far temperatures are pretty good. Just my two cents.
What’s that vertical rack on the wall? That’s killer man
For motor fans what do you suggest blowing into or away from the motor? Seems to be quite the debate.
I race 13.5t stock onroad in Australia and I’m lucky to have 3 tracks within an hour of me and I deviate between all 3 so I temp my motor after every run at every track, I use one tram zombie 30mm fan on the motor, normally comes off at 50 degrees celcius every run after 6 minutes
My slash 4x4 got really hot today ! I just unplugged it let it cool down :) Better than forcing the temp to be down
love your vid ryan your like my yoda of racing i'm the little cute one learning thanks bro keep um coming
Another thing to mention are things like Aluminum motor mounts instead of plastic/carbon and/or small can heatsinks. Many years ago i kept frying Mamba motors until i threw a small can heatsink on them.
love this chanel
Hi there, can you explain each individual setting ESCs have? Stuff like the do/don't do with your ESC programming for a specific motor and class. Also , setting interactions, like if you set the X setting to certain level then you should also change the Y setting in correspondence. I know that different brands sometimes have different names for the same setting , but it would be great if you did like a generic review.
I only discovered your channel recently but I think it is great. I'm personally not into interviews but I watch your tips and setup advice over and over again. Great job !
When you’re running multiple fans like that how do you power them all? Run some to the receiver and then some off of a battery tap?
Great videos well done great music. I add/glue lexan air dams around fan to try and direct more air flow around motor. I’ve seen as much as 10 degrees difference versus without
Nice! Makes sense to me
Question!?
Do you have any experience forcing air through brushed motor cans through holes at either end?
Cheers mate! Just liked and subbed- great vid, esp your advice about keeping everything under about 150’F
Should my battery git hot after running
Yes. Below 100° they can also puff up a little too. Connectors or cables shouldnt be hot though or you could be drawing too much current through small gauge wires
Check out the “Seek Thermal Compact Pro” a must have game changer. I justified buying one because I do HVAC for a living, seeing what is hot and how hot something is and comparing it is the future !
Bought a Schelle fan mount works great
I’m using a standard voltage servo from amazon one of the 20 kg ones , brushed 2s not conservative gearing but the motor heat isn’t the issue , it’s staying about 100 degrees , would the servo cause a issue?
To keep a good air flow under the body have you ever made slots/holes in the body and mounted a fan to the underside of the body?
Do you remember the muchmore racing thermal cooler fan i suggest them they make your motor ice cold to condensation starts awesome fan look um up if you have seen it i'm sure you have. much luv frm u.k
I bet adding a few 3d printed air scoops could help get air into the body too
Good info here. Funny, last race day my 13.5 motor randomly started getting hot in my new XB4... normally comes off after a 5 min run at 140 degs....suddenly hit 210deg. no changes, same track as well.... I also used to be able to run consistently for an entire battery pack without overheating. Still haven't figured out what happened yet though. The car rolls smooth, no drag from what I can see either. Kind of a bummer though cause that ain't good for the motor.
you know what u got a new subscriber
Awesome info thanks so much
yah i did the fans and changed the gearing. but here comes the wtf moment, i also cut out the windows and that was the only thing that really worked for me. . . traxxas slash 4x4 vxl gets really hot on 3s lipo. i want to just get a roll cage body at this point i dont think airflow gets any better than that
I thinking about getting a19 pinion gear for a xmaxx and the xmaxx has already has fans should I get more ?
More battery cell which means higher voltage is also caused ESC overheating?
I'm using a Hobbywing XR1060 Amp! Combo that cam with a 17.5 Justock!
Nice video but I was hoping to see what to do when we have cold motor/hot ESC/cold batteries, hot motor/cold ESC/cold batteries and so on. Personally, my ESC is getting quite hot while the batteries and the motor remain cool. I was thinking of increasing the pinion and reducing the spur teeth number by one or 2. I am not sure if this will work though. I run WTF/Racing Performer fans on my ESC and motor.
Awesome video bro!!
How much better are the Wild Turbo Fans than the others? Is it really a night and day difference?
EvHexRC 1 They are really great (IMO) compared to others I have used. I actually think a few out there are the same exact fan...just branded differently for each company.
Hi Ryan, loving the videos.
On your 2wd buggies, have you noticed any difference with mounting the fan Infront and above the motor blowing down compared to mounting behind the motor? If mounting behind which way round would you have the fan, blowing on the motor, or acting as an exhaust? I've only been racing a few months and am on a steep learning curve, so your videos have been really helpful.
I have always blown the air into the motor. No issues for me so far!
Luv the vids want to see some pit tips and what kind of pit supplies you use. What about heat sinks.
slash 2wd oval boss I might have to make a video about that!
slash 2wd oval boss h
i have a fully enclosed ESC in a box. and it doesnt overheat (it does more than if it was purely out of the box in the car) as much. maybe because literarly the whole body of the ESC is a heat sink lol
So how do you know a safe gearing to start with? (May be obvious to some but I'm new...)
Another great video, is there general safe and extreme temperatures?
Some time overheat happens, and stop on middle of the track especially during a intense race, them I just disable it form ESC setting card
hi ryan so i have a older team associated sc10 sct and find it really hard to cool the motor any ideas 👍
Hey Ryan, what temperature would you say would be "overheating" for each electric component roughly?
When the esc shuts off lol
well after it's already shut down it's a little too late isn't it I don't think that's what he wanted to know
When you can't hold your hand on it for more than 5 seconds
My rustler 2wd after I dis my upgrade to onyx esc and motor. Now every time around 175 degrees on the motor and 110 at esc and starts a turn off. Usually what is a good temperature to system? Please I will be very happy if you can help me out
I’m a nitro guy starting out in Electric, but are airscoops allowed in electric racing?
I used a motor analyzer to set the amps right. Then gear according. I ran a 6.5 in my 4wd 1/10 truggy. I had the motor set to draw 5.5 amps then san a 17 tooth. I ran it for 10 minutes the motor never got over 98
I'm a bit confused....you seem to suggest that running a smaller pinion wheel (e.g. less teeth) could help keep the motor cooler. Is this because the smaller pinion results in a lower gear ratio, and therefore the motor doesn't have to work as hard to accelerate the car ?
Another quick tip to lower your motor temps a bit in a pinch . C-clamp around your motor will also dissipate heat from the motor when there's no other options..
How do you hang your cars on the wall? Would love a what gear you have video too
Great info 👍
I have a castle Sidewinder4 in a rock Rey stock gearing with a 1415 castle brushless motor. I have a 16t pinion and my wires are melting the solder on the esc. The bullet plugs and my wires going to my motor (I now have 12awg wiring going to my motor) and after going half throttle for a minute my bullet plugs are way too hot to touch. On 2s and 3s. What is going on here? Maybe a bad motor?
Another great video... i just got myself a used stadium truck. It’s a tlr 22t 2.0. What do u suggest on set up, gearing, and fan placement?
Nice! I'm not very knowledgeable of the TLR stuff these days... Maybe find something in a Facebook group for TLR?
I have a question: I have a rustler 4x4 vxl since I started running on 3s I only get about 8 minutes before it cuts off I have a fan on the esc any suggestions?
I dont have a temp-gun or how you call it, i hold two fingers on the esc and motor and see if i can keep it on, i can drive, if its too hot for the fingers, then i gotta cool it down with a big fan. Too hot to touch too hot to run ya know
If you go up on pinion and down on spur is that still gearing down??