Quickly Replace Old Reccessed Lights with Retrofit LED Lights
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2021
- Updating old can lights has never been easier with these Sunco retrofit LED recessed lights. They are almost as easy to install as screwing in a lightbulb - you've heard the old "How many ____ does it take to screw in a lightbulb" joke right? It's simple.
My new setup is made up of Sunco lights which I've used in previous new installs. The cans were 6" so that's the size I needed here and I opted for the 3000k lumens for a nice bright light that still had a hint of yellow in it so it doesn't look like a doctors office. These are warm white.
The steps are the following:
Step 1) turn off the lights and allow the bulbs to cool off
Step 2) unscrew the bulbs and pull down the old flange
Step 3) screw in the retrofit LED lights
Step 4) push the new lights in and enjoy!
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Tools Used:
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3000 Lumens Sunco Retrofit Recessed Lights:
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2700 Lumens Sunco Retrofit Recessed Lights:
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Regular Sunco Recessed Lights:
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DON'T CLICK THIS:
ruclips.net/user/KellyConcept.... 
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Heh bro. A quick mention here. I’ve been replacing blown recessed led fixture for a little while, and when I do I use the tension spring you’re referring to. That was until I found that the can I’m installing into does NOT have 2 opposing clips into which my springs would typically fit. With all that tension in the springs, you’d think the two would push against the wall of the can and keep the fixture up there.
Well, after having 2 of the 6 installs actually depart from the can (no sweat of course…the fixture stays connected and they’re very light), I started googling to find that tension springs don’t just go against the walls of a can. They are actually supposed to go through a clip on opposed sides-clips that are built onto the can’s walls. If you don’t have the clips, you should not use tension springs. I’ve had one dangle from the ceiling 2 weeks after I installed it. Talk about embarrassing!
Just an fyi
So appreciate a quality short and to the point video that explained everything I needed and didn't waste my time with extra components - well done!
Your video showed me the one piece of crucial information to give me the confidence to do this replacement myself. I was ready to give up but now have a new LED light installed in my hallway. Thank you!
2700 and 3000, etc. refer to COLOR TEMPERATURE, in Kelvin and not brightness. Some see this as brightness, but brightness is measured in lumens, not Kelvin. Some might see color as brightness because lower color lights (i.e. 2700K, warm) is seen as less bright than a bulb of the same lumen output at 4 or 5000K (bright or daylight color).
Correct.
Thanks man! Saved me a ton of time and money to modernize our lighting situation!
Very nice video! Very simple and easy to follow along with
Thanks for the video. I cannot use newer LEDs in my house as they burn out fairly quickly. So I have started to replace them. I started with a contractor in our kitchen, but if I can do the swap like in your video.. awesome sauce! I think I have full cans though.. sad face.
Great job with the tutorial and congratulations on your channel growth!
Thank you! Glad you're staying in touch!
Regarding your old incandescent bulbs burning out constantly, I may have an answer. Let me tell you a story. 17 years ago, I did a major renovation to my home. Installed maybe 20 hi-hats with BR40 bulbs. The bulbs lasted forever. I went more than a a decade without a single bulb burning out. finally, in the kitchen, the highest use area of the house, I had my first bulb burn out after 12 years. I went to Home Depot, got a bulb, three months later, burned out. I got another and another, same thing. At 17 years now, I still have most of the original bulbs throughout the house, still working fine, but lost a few more, and no joy with the replacements. What gives?
Now it get's interesting. The bulbs I got at Home Depot were standard 65W bulbs. I remembered that when I first installed all the bulbs, I bought 85W Satco heavy duty use bulbs rated for 130V. The life of a tungsten filament increases exponentially with a drop in voltage, so running a 130V bulb at 120V or less increases life waaaay more than 10%. Plus, the filaments are thicker for a heavy duty bulb. And the 85W bulb will give out the same light and consume the same power as a 65W bulb when operated at 120V instead of 130V. Of course, the original bulbs I bought were no longer available (banned?) but eventually, I found a few cases of the exact 85W bulbs in stock at an online supplier. I snatched them up and problem solved. No more burned out bulbs.
Of course, now I'm looking to replace everything with LEDs. Until very recently, the LED floods were TERRIBLE, with very poor color rendering. Now, they've gotten much better, with CRI 90+ available. It'll be hard to let go of the old bulbs, but if I can get decent LEDs, I'll be happy to lower my electric bill and save the planet.
Lumens = Total quantity of visible light. Kelvin = Color temperature of a light source. CRI = Color Rendering Index -> Go for 90+.
On the old bulb burnout an electrician told me we screwed in too tightly. He told me to screw it in while light switch was on. Worked perfectly after I ruined 3 in a row.
you might have noticed some tabs on the inside of the "pot" or metal shroud. These are made for the spring wire. Set your spring wire just past the tab hook on each side and when all 4 wires are in place, just push up for a secure seating which should be perfectly centered. This makes maintenance easier as the inside fixture will slide straight down and unclip easily. Often, inside fixtures that have been "friction" fitted by twisting around will get their spring wire caught in slots in the shroud making it difficult to remove the inside fixture. (Most often you will need to bend the holding tabs out a little bit to have room to slide in the spring wires. I'm not sure all round recessed lighting comes with this handy feature, but you will appreciate you spend a few extra moments on your install if you have to do maintenance or replacement.)
This is amazing advice. One of my lights keeps dropping a half inch or so from the ceiling and I was considering using double-sided tape or something.
Love it but can’t figure me model numbers of large guts up used
darn! I was hoping this was a hard wire led flip. I wish I watched this before I bought my led replacement light!
Thanks does this also work with replacing halogens ?
Do they make square LED retrofits
Unless I’m mistaken, the way you just put the socket into the Can, It can possible touch the metal if the can and short out.
I wonderful where do you get your 3 light bar, they are pretty
I have been trying to find a wafer light with the easy screw in adapter similar to your video, but I cant find it, any thoughts>
Where can I get that metal housing (@00:40) that was on the old setup? I am going back to using a bulb and the shroud doesn't bit because the springs can't attach to the canned housing (where your spring clips slide into).
How do yo utake them out once you put them on? The new ones i mean.
My retro fit will not stay up in can. No flanges on side of old can to hold. What do I do?
You asked why your bulbs kept burning out. I couldn't really tell. But they looked like LED bulbs. If they were. Make sure the light switch is rates for LED bulbs. Especially if it's a dimmer. I've had old switches cause my bulbs to burn out sooner then they should.
Bulb burn out could be due to having a higher amp/voltage output in the home than the fixture can handle. You need to check what voltage the fixture handles and what volt output the junction box has. I have seen some homes run on 220V and most fixtures use 110V. Hope this helps.
Did they last? I have the same issue with my LED bulbs dying every 1.5 years. I plan on installing these.
This was helpful. At least I know what to order and how to put them in…unfortunately, my canned lights do not pop out that easily. The tabs are at the top, spaced so far apart I would need both with my little female hands to pinch them and they are so STIFF I'm not even budging them. Nothing is ever easy.
You are referring to color temperature, not lumens. Lumens is brightness and temperature is the color or whiteness of the light. 5000 lumens would blind the heck out of you. Those light are about 900 lumens.
Thanks for help me out, You Are The Man🦾
King of recessed lighting. Great job as always. By the way... what's wrong with 6000 lumens and having the house look like a Dr's office? LOL!
I've used 5000 lumens in a bathroom and if I didn't look pale enough, I definitely did then!
@@KellyConcepts BTW, I think you mean color temperature, which is a different concept than lumens. Just clarifying here because it might confuse people looking at specs. Talking color temperature, 2700 kelvin (aka 2700k) is typical "warm" lighting for a home. 3000k is less "warm"
typical in bathrooms. 5000k is cooler, more accurate lighting, (sometimes called "daylight" lighting), and it is most often used in places where you need accurate color rendition (like a doctor's office, workshops, etc).
Lumens is the measure of brightness. Example, an old 100 watt incandescent bulb is about 1600 lumens. As a generalization, 100w was a brighter high power bulb. A typical recessed flood light was 60-75 watt, or 800-1100 lumens. Lumens are lumens, so these days you want to buy bulbs for the amount of light (lumens) you need, not the power. And of course, with the correct color temperature for your application.
Our old canned lights are 7-7-1/2". The retrofits are for 5-6" lights. Therefore, the springs do not hold the retrofit in place. Do you have any ideas on how we can find retrofits to work for the 7" can?
I know I have a similar issue the full size measures that as well. Wish he would reply to people.
@@angiejohnson6224 fyi, we ended up buying the largest retrofit we could find at HD/Lowes. We still had most of our "rings" which cover the sheetrock raw edges. We were able to order new rings to fit the 7" cans from Amazon. Good luck.
Recessed lighting from Kelly Concepts! I can't believe it ;)
SURPRISE SURPRISE!! lol
Is it ok to leave the light sockets like that above new LED light? I have similar set up, was not sure if letting connected sockets rest on top of LED was ok.
Ya, LEDs don’t get as hot as those old lights. Shouldn’t be an issue.
Is it safe to replace the light by only flipping the switch off or should I also cut the circuit breaker?
So, I am using a Feit replacement light and the spring clips are set at 6" and the light won't stay up flush with the ceiling. Is there something that I am missing here. I followed your video and it still will not stay up tight to the ceiling, best I can get to is about a 3/8 gap on one side. Any ideas on a solution? Thanks
Man it’s a bummer he won’t really reply to anyone….
One thing missing in this video is that fact that those spring clips are actually supposed to go into some retainer clips that are inside the recessed can. They are not made to just slide up into the can and hold it with friction. That is why yours keep slipping down. Unfortunately this was not mentioned AT ALL in this video, I am guessing the poster does not know about this. Some retrofit lights actually come with the clips that will hold the spring clips properly, they are called c-clips and likely a bit of a pain to fasten into the side of the recessed can (you can remove the can to work on it - most times...but that is quite a bit more involved as you have to deal with turning off your circuit breaker, disconnecting the wires in the junction box after you remove the can, etc.). The video creator, and others that have done what he did, have just been lucky that the retrofits have stayed up inside the cans, or have they?
The problem is the socket is loose. I don’t think this will pass the code. You need a bracket to hold the exist old socket. When you removed old lights the socket was fit with the old can.
I did the same as what you did but having a loose socket is not right.
Why use these? LED BR30s are available. When these burn out, changing a light bulb gets harder to do. Especially high on a ladder with a vaulted ceiling.
close but no cigar. You're essentially reducing the size of the light to a 4" light
Why not just put LED bulbs in there?
Don't forget this: ruclips.net/video/C8XzhHxRtzc/видео.html
You should’ve just put an LED bulb in the existing fixture. The light you used is meant to be a stand alone light in a fresh cut hole in drywall. The springs aren’t meant to hold the fixture inside a metal can.
it’s a retrofit light it’s literally exactly for this
7 year warranty on made in china junk.....yeah good luck with that.
Sunco is headquartered in CA…
Everything is made in China.