Dude.. your vids are great.. I’m coming over from home assistant and finding EVERYTHING to be much easier on hubitat. Especially with instructional vids like yours! Ty. No more flashing sonoff switches and soldering jumper wires! I’m so stoked. Peanuts and relays were spot on and very cheap. Thx again.
Cool but I used a Meross garage module instead... super simple and works with Google/Alexa... home automation and apps. Tells you if it’s open, closed, timers, and options to close after x amount of time. Meross option is awesome in my home.. highly recommend it.
Great video. I was just about to go buy a smart garage door kit before finding your video. I had one extra smart plug and a 12 volt relay laying around & went to work. I used an old AC/DC plug that I had laying around from an old cordless phone. I will be adding the door sensor today to let me know if the door is open or closed. Thanks for the help!
This is literally me right now; about to pull the plug on a Tailwind or a Meross garage door opener, but thinking if I try this approach first, I can have more control and it would be local. Cheap enough to give it a try without breaking the bank.
@@DavidHergert Agreed. It was not bad at all. I am on the Hubitat platform and integration was super easy. I added my sensor on a hinge so when the door is open, the contact sensor breaks contact to let me know the door is open.
Great videos. I was hoping to use my new Hubitat hub to automate my garage door and your technique was so clean compared to all the MyQ crap I was seeing. That being said I can't get my implementation to work. I bought a GE #14288 Z-Wave outlet and a Zettler AZ2280-1C-120A relay and hooked that all up with my 2 year old Liftmaster 8155 MyQ door opener. What works: The GE outlet works on both the hot side and the Smart side. I can use HE automation to turn the Smart side on and off and have a rule to turn it off after 1 sec when it is turned on. The blue LED on the outlet goes on when the Smart side is energized and goes out when it is not. The relay clicks when I plug it into 120V. What doesn't work: When I fire the Smart outlet the blue outlet light goes on for 1 second and then turns off as expected and the relay clicks. However, I get error lights on my door opener. Per the Liftmaster troubleshooting guide my lights mean "The wires for the door control are shorted or the door control is faulty. Inspect door control wires at all staple and connection points, replace wire or correct as needed." At the door opener is a wiring block that goes Red|White|White|Gray. From my existing installation there is a black wire going into the Red contact, a white wiring going into the first White contact, two white wires going into the second white contact, and a black wire going into the Gray contact. Per the install guide the Red & White contacts are for the door switch and the other White and the Gray contacts are for the safety beam. From my relay I have a white wire from the Common spade and a red wire from the NO spade. I first tried adding my red relay wire along with the existing black wire into the Red contact and my white relay wire along with the existing white wire into the leftmost White contact. This errored out as mentioned above so then I tried taking the existing door switch wire out and just having the relay wires going into the opener by themselves and that failed with the same error mentioned above. I've tried reviewing everything I could, but I sure seem stuck at this point. I believe my door does not have wifi as that model # is 8155W. It does have MyQ although I can't figure out what good that is without a wifi gateway. Sorry for this long dump on you, but any thoughts as to where I could troubleshoot next? Is this a case where I have a semi-smart wall switch for the door opener and my automation is not playing well with it. I seem to recall some mentions of this when I was reading up on HE automation with MyQ. If so, I would have thought it would work when I left the door switch wires out. I would love to get your technique working as I feel like I am so close and really don't want to have to fall back into the MyQ stuff. thanks
@@Trialnerror Thanks for replying so quickly. I was afraid it was going to be something like that since everything else seemed to be working nicely. Is my solution to replace the smart switch with something more basic or is it more work I have to do at the opener of some sort? Willing to try either way.
@@Trialnerror Hey no problem, I appreciate the responses even when there is not an easy solution. FYI, I didn't catch the "read more" on your initial response until now so I had only read the first 3 lines of your reply. I now see you had laid out a very detailed solution that answered all my questions (thanks). I had also read where others have hardwired into remotes. I pried one of mine open and saw the four solder points under the garage button. My thinking is I could wire my relay output to that and then just zip tie the remote up alongside the door opener. This of course requires another $30 for a spare remote but would avoid having wiring to the wall switch. Thanks again, no reply necessary.
Trial N' ERROR I tried the wall switch after draping a test wire and that worked fine. Just goy my $12 remote I so I soldered that up to the relay and that works great. Just zip tied the bundle to the opener support bracket and it looks pretty clean.
First off, great vid! I just put one of these together for my Chamberlain unit, and it's not working. I even tested by creating a jumper and jumping the wires for the controller (at the motor) and it still doesn't open or close (which is exactly what the relay would do). I'm assuming that the Chamberlain wall button introduces some resistance that the control unit is expecting and will not work via just a closed connection. Any ideas about how I can work around this and get this working?
@@ericwoodall8337 Correct. it's looking for a specific digital signal, not just a simple open/closed circuit. It can still be done but you need to open up the wall mounted switch. Inside, find the two solder points that go directly to the actual board mounted switch and solder two leads to them. Those now hookup to the relay and you're in business. I had to do this with one of my newer door openers.
Trial N' ERROR thanks! I ended up just hacking one of the remotes by removing the button and adding wires to plug into the relay. Works quite well from the hardware prospective. Just need to get the Hubitat set up the way I need it to work with an actual tilt sensor.
Please reply ASAP I watched both 12v and 110v versions of how to use smart plug to pover relay to open garage door Ok you power the relay with Alexa command great My question is when you connect the yellow wires to common and normally open on relay where dose the other end of the yellow wires go . Do they go to physical button or share the inputs on the back of chamberlain by twisting wires together and why are both wires yellow? Also if I keep hardware dumb when relay powers on via Alexa will door open fully? I’m wondering what the button and relay voltage is going into back of chamberlain if in fact that’s the way your connecting I’m afraid of blowing up my garage door opener
Trial N' ERROR what if the button isn’t a button but a lcd controller panel Has outside temperature, time and other features Will I fry that control pannel with your instructions
@@AskUncleDavecom I don't see how you can fry it with low voltage from the relay. I used and automotive style relay and wire it with an old AC/DC plug I had laying around.
Neat and economical setup. It would seem that your two natural speach voice commands actually do the same thing. How would you enhance this such that the command to "Open garage door three" would only execute if the door was in fact closed at the time? Thanks and keep up the great ideas.
Excellent explanation, than you for sharing. Suggestion, turn off the background music thumping sound. Keep in mind, we came to hear you not fight music to hear you. Many folks have hearing difficulties thus the background music quickly becomes annoying and intrusive.
I uploaded this many, many years ago. Since then, I've learned a lot about editing and while I'm not great at it now, I did learn to turn down the damn music a bit :) Thanks for watching and taking the time to provide good feedback friend!
Quick question.... I watched the other 12 volt episode and this one looks easier, I just can't figure out the flow. I get the relay part, but I'm a knuckle head and can't figure out how where the existing switch wire and the new relay interact? I tried to freeze frame the video, but you didn't get a good shot straight at the back of the opener. It would probably help if I had a greater understanding of electrical crap...but I don't....lol. Anyway, I just want to try this without dying. Hopefully you might understand what I'm trying to get at... Thanks.
This will not work on a new Chamberlain. The new Chamberlain will not activate when you short the control leads.It requires the special button that comes with it.
Wait, how did he wire it into the garage door opener? Did I miss something? Seems like he forgot to video that part? I just jumps from inside to suddenly there's two wires coming from the garage door opener. He doesn't say how he connected the two yellow wires? 6:30
My wink hub wont let me do a 1 second and then close routine. The shortest duration i can do is 1 minute. Would this be safe to do leaving the relay engaged and flipped to closed for a full minute before shutting off? Also is there no other electronics required on the AC side except the power cord? what limits the current to the coil when energized? isn't the relay input coil just essentially a short so wouldn't it be a short on the 120v AC while energized? This is a great little cheap solution for google home to open and close the door since a normal garage door opener for smart homes wont allow you to open the door and costs 10x this price!
I think the only (important) problem with leaving the relay engaged would be it overrides certain safety mechanisms of your door. For example, if I hold my garage door button, it will ignore anything tripping the infrared safety beam. I sometimes need to do this if its snowing and snowflakes keep tripping the beam. So by holding the relay open for 1 min, while the door is closing if something like a child or animal goes beneath the door it won't stop it from closing. Something to consider.
Geez, I got lost and confused after you showed us the Peanut Plug....and then used the smartoutlet....huummm????. I had to "rewind" several times to see if I was missing something. Did you end-up ditching the Peanut outlet?
I have the same question but my guess is the peanut plug wouldn't allow the constant power then i thought why not if you just wire it the same way he has it with the new lead in a peanut plug. I'm confused.
You would use the peanut plug if you did not have a smart in-wall outlet. They serve identical purposes, he just mentioned the peanut is an option if you didn't have the outlet.
Thanks for explaining how to automate a garage door. One more layer of security for the door is to zip tie the emergency latch where you can open your door by pulling the cord down from inside your garage. Thieves have figured out how to slide a wire over the top of the door from outside and grab the rope and open the door.
Peanut Outlet: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TC9NC82/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00TC9NC82&linkId=f02a4ab3368f83f48e3d2ee87383310b
120v Relay: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07587NZTC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=trialnerror-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B07587NZTC&linkId=8af633547cba31b6c3e1afaf506e62ba
Idiot Proof Version (Clark Griswald Approved): ruclips.net/video/pdSTaHNNTKg/видео.html
BRAND SPANKIN' NEW CHANNEL MERCH! teespring.com/stores/trial-n-error
Dude.. your vids are great.. I’m coming over from home assistant and finding EVERYTHING to be much easier on hubitat. Especially with instructional vids like yours! Ty. No more flashing sonoff switches and soldering jumper wires! I’m so stoked. Peanuts and relays were spot on and very cheap. Thx again.
Cool but I used a Meross garage module instead... super simple and works with Google/Alexa... home automation and apps. Tells you if it’s open, closed, timers, and options to close after x amount of time. Meross option is awesome in my home.. highly recommend it.
Just finished this today after the parts arrived. Works perfectly! Thank you.
Great video. I was just about to go buy a smart garage door kit before finding your video. I had one extra smart plug and a 12 volt relay laying around & went to work. I used an old AC/DC plug that I had laying around from an old cordless phone. I will be adding the door sensor today to let me know if the door is open or closed. Thanks for the help!
This is literally me right now; about to pull the plug on a Tailwind or a Meross garage door opener, but thinking if I try this approach first, I can have more control and it would be local. Cheap enough to give it a try without breaking the bank.
@@DavidHergert Agreed. It was not bad at all. I am on the Hubitat platform and integration was super easy. I added my sensor on a hinge so when the door is open, the contact sensor breaks contact to let me know the door is open.
Thanks for the video. How do I select the relay? In the video you have used 110v relay. I'm from Australia, do I use 220v relay?
Great videos. I was hoping to use my new Hubitat hub to automate my garage door and your technique was so clean compared to all the MyQ crap I was seeing. That being said I can't get my implementation to work. I bought a GE #14288 Z-Wave outlet and a Zettler AZ2280-1C-120A relay and hooked that all up with my 2 year old Liftmaster 8155 MyQ door opener.
What works:
The GE outlet works on both the hot side and the Smart side. I can use HE automation to turn the Smart side on and off and have a rule to turn it off after 1 sec when it is turned on.
The blue LED on the outlet goes on when the Smart side is energized and goes out when it is not.
The relay clicks when I plug it into 120V.
What doesn't work:
When I fire the Smart outlet the blue outlet light goes on for 1 second and then turns off as expected and the relay clicks. However, I get error lights on my door opener. Per the Liftmaster troubleshooting guide my lights mean "The wires for the door control are shorted or the door control is faulty. Inspect door control wires at all staple and connection points, replace wire or correct as needed."
At the door opener is a wiring block that goes Red|White|White|Gray. From my existing installation there is a black wire going into the Red contact, a white wiring going into the first White contact, two white wires going into the second white contact, and a black wire going into the Gray contact. Per the install guide the Red & White contacts are for the door switch and the other White and the Gray contacts are for the safety beam. From my relay I have a white wire from the Common spade and a red wire from the NO spade.
I first tried adding my red relay wire along with the existing black wire into the Red contact and my white relay wire along with the existing white wire into the leftmost White contact.
This errored out as mentioned above so then I tried taking the existing door switch wire out and just having the relay wires going into the opener by themselves and that failed with the same error mentioned above. I've tried reviewing everything I could, but I sure seem stuck at this point. I believe my door does not have wifi as that model # is 8155W. It does have MyQ although I can't figure out what good that is without a wifi gateway.
Sorry for this long dump on you, but any thoughts as to where I could troubleshoot next? Is this a case where I have a semi-smart wall switch for the door opener and my automation is not playing well with it. I seem to recall some mentions of this when I was reading up on HE automation with MyQ. If so, I would have thought it would work when I left the door switch wires out. I would love to get your technique working as I feel like I am so close and really don't want to have to fall back into the MyQ stuff.
thanks
@@Trialnerror Thanks for replying so quickly. I was afraid it was going to be something like that since everything else seemed to be working nicely. Is my solution to replace the smart switch with something more basic or is it more work I have to do at the opener of some sort? Willing to try either way.
@@Trialnerror Hey no problem, I appreciate the responses even when there is not an easy solution. FYI, I didn't catch the "read more" on your initial response until now so I had only read the first 3 lines of your reply. I now see you had laid out a very detailed solution that answered all my questions (thanks). I had also read where others have hardwired into remotes. I pried one of mine open and saw the four solder points under the garage button. My thinking is I could wire my relay output to that and then just zip tie the remote up alongside the door opener. This of course requires another $30 for a spare remote but would avoid having wiring to the wall switch. Thanks again, no reply necessary.
Trial N' ERROR I tried the wall switch after draping a test wire and that worked fine. Just goy my $12 remote I so I soldered that up to the relay and that works great. Just zip tied the bundle to the opener support bracket and it looks pretty clean.
I love these home automation vids! You should do more over the winter while waiting to get back to your garage 👍🏻😁
It seems like the sensor logic is OPEN='100% open' and CLOSED='
Thanks for sharing this! It makes me feel confident we'll manage to build something similar with a bit of fiddling. :)
First off, great vid! I just put one of these together for my Chamberlain unit, and it's not working. I even tested by creating a jumper and jumping the wires for the controller (at the motor) and it still doesn't open or close (which is exactly what the relay would do). I'm assuming that the Chamberlain wall button introduces some resistance that the control unit is expecting and will not work via just a closed connection. Any ideas about how I can work around this and get this working?
Dang, I guess it's right there in the manual, "NOTE: Older Chamberlain remote controls, and third party products are not compatible". Oh well!
@@ericwoodall8337 Correct. it's looking for a specific digital signal, not just a simple open/closed circuit. It can still be done but you need to open up the wall mounted switch. Inside, find the two solder points that go directly to the actual board mounted switch and solder two leads to them. Those now hookup to the relay and you're in business. I had to do this with one of my newer door openers.
Trial N' ERROR thanks! I ended up just hacking one of the remotes by removing the button and adding wires to plug into the relay. Works quite well from the hardware prospective. Just need to get the Hubitat set up the way I need it to work with an actual tilt sensor.
Please reply ASAP
I watched both 12v and 110v versions of how to use smart plug to pover relay to open garage door
Ok you power the relay with Alexa command great
My question is when you connect the yellow wires to common and normally open on relay where dose the other end of the yellow wires go . Do they go to physical button or share the inputs on the back of chamberlain by twisting wires together and why are both wires yellow? Also if I keep hardware dumb when relay powers on via Alexa will door open fully?
I’m wondering what the button and relay voltage is going into back of chamberlain if in fact that’s the way your connecting
I’m afraid of blowing up my garage door opener
Trial N' ERROR what if the button isn’t a button but a lcd controller panel
Has outside temperature, time and other features
Will I fry that control pannel with your instructions
@@AskUncleDavecom I don't see how you can fry it with low voltage from the relay. I used and automotive style relay and wire it with an old AC/DC plug I had laying around.
Neat and economical setup. It would seem that your two natural speach voice commands actually do the same thing. How would you enhance this such that the command to "Open garage door three" would only execute if the door was in fact closed at the time? Thanks and keep up the great ideas.
Great video. Is the door/window sensor zwave?
"This is a sore dick deal... You can't beat it."
Wow! LOL!!
Excellent explanation, than you for sharing.
Suggestion, turn off the background music thumping sound. Keep in mind, we came to hear you not fight music to hear you. Many folks have hearing difficulties thus the background music quickly becomes annoying and intrusive.
I uploaded this many, many years ago. Since then, I've learned a lot about editing and while I'm not great at it now, I did learn to turn down the damn music a bit :) Thanks for watching and taking the time to provide good feedback friend!
Quick question: how do u set this up in the dashboard to reflect the state of the door on the same tile that u press to activate the outlet? Thx
Quick question.... I watched the other 12 volt episode and this one looks easier, I just can't figure out the flow. I get the relay part, but I'm a knuckle head and can't figure out how where the existing switch wire and the new relay interact? I tried to freeze frame the video, but you didn't get a good shot straight at the back of the opener. It would probably help if I had a greater understanding of electrical crap...but I don't....lol. Anyway, I just want to try this without dying. Hopefully you might understand what I'm trying to get at... Thanks.
"Alexa, open the pod bay door please... Alexa?"
Very good vide, I just wish you showed which terminals the common and NO wire connected to on the garage door opener.
This will not work on a new Chamberlain. The new Chamberlain will not activate when you short the control leads.It requires the special button that comes with it.
I've also done it to a new Chamberlain by tapping off the tactile switch in the actual button FYI.
Tom, keep the funnies and of course projects coming.
Wait, how did he wire it into the garage door opener? Did I miss something? Seems like he forgot to video that part? I just jumps from inside to suddenly there's two wires coming from the garage door opener. He doesn't say how he connected the two yellow wires? 6:30
The wires from common and normally open on the relay go to the same input on the back of the garage opener as the wall button would.
Could I do this same thing but not with Alexa. For example use the native google assistant on my phone and wire it the same way?
Enjoying the videos. I have a question, if the smart outlet is off do the dumb garage door buttons still function?
@@Trialnerror Great to hear! I'm getting my Hubitat Elevation on Monday and plan to start transitioning away from my current setup with SmartThings.
My wink hub wont let me do a 1 second and then close routine. The shortest duration i can do is 1 minute. Would this be safe to do leaving the relay engaged and flipped to closed for a full minute before shutting off? Also is there no other electronics required on the AC side except the power cord? what limits the current to the coil when energized? isn't the relay input coil just essentially a short so wouldn't it be a short on the 120v AC while energized?
This is a great little cheap solution for google home to open and close the door since a normal garage door opener for smart homes wont allow you to open the door and costs 10x this price!
@@Trialnerror thanks I've already got two Z-Wave plugs and I've got two of those relays on order now. This should be doable with wink and Google home
I think the only (important) problem with leaving the relay engaged would be it overrides certain safety mechanisms of your door. For example, if I hold my garage door button, it will ignore anything tripping the infrared safety beam. I sometimes need to do this if its snowing and snowflakes keep tripping the beam. So by holding the relay open for 1 min, while the door is closing if something like a child or animal goes beneath the door it won't stop it from closing. Something to consider.
So how would this open a manual 'up and over' door then? 🙈
sweet now just waiting on your NYE firework stash video
Got a link to the door/window sensor for roughly $10? I'm finding they are around $30 from Gocontrol. Thanks.
Geez, I got lost and confused after you showed us the Peanut Plug....and then used the smartoutlet....huummm????. I had to "rewind" several times to see if I was missing something. Did you end-up ditching the Peanut outlet?
I have the same question but my guess is the peanut plug wouldn't allow the constant power then i thought why not if you just wire it the same way he has it with the new lead in a peanut plug. I'm confused.
You would use the peanut plug if you did not have a smart in-wall outlet. They serve identical purposes, he just mentioned the peanut is an option if you didn't have the outlet.
Thanks for explaining how to automate a garage door. One more layer of security for the door is to zip tie the emergency latch where you can open your door by pulling the cord down from inside your garage. Thieves have figured out how to slide a wire over the top of the door from outside and grab the rope and open the door.
dang man, thanks!!
Wouldn't this be easier to wire up to the wall switch? No need to get up on a ladder.
lol the old school remote is way easier to use.
Yea, if you're a freakin caveman ;)
⚡️ damn I hate that😂 I like lips on my organ🤔
lol Why do you have such a tall garage? What do you park in there?
@@Trialnerror They now have the folding giraffe kind. It will even fit a TSA-approved suitcase.