Is the Shelly 1 better than the Sonoff Basic?
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Amazon US Links:
Shelly 1 Amazon US: amzn.to/2YUD9s8
Shelly 2.5 Amazon US: amzn.to/31x5rdT
FTDI Adapter Amazon US: amzn.to/2PpcoZv
Jumper Wires Amazon US: amzn.to/2o0Moa1
*As an Amazon Associate I earn a % of qualifying purchases at no cost to you.*
Shelly Official Links:
Shelly 1: event.2perform...
Shelly 2.5: event.2perform...
Shelly1Tasmota Bin File: (link removed)
OFFICIAL TASMOTA BRANCH NOW HAS SHELLY SUPPORT. PLEASE DOWNLOAD FROM:
github.com/are...
*After you flash successfully, unplug the GND and GPIO-0 wires, then plug it back in with just the VCC/GND/RX/TX and leave GPIO-0 off and it will boot, make an AP, and let you use termite.*
Visit my website: www.TheSmartHom...
Follow me on Twitter: @TheHookUp1
Support my channel:
Patreon: / thehookup
Tesla Refferal Code: www.tesla.com/...
Music by www.BenSound.com 
Наука
I just wanted to say that I really enjoyed your video. I'm a complete noob when it comes to electronics and I found your presenting style informative, entertaining, engaging and enjoyable. Thanks!
This was clearly made with EU light switch boxes in mind and I love it! Thanks for the video Rob!
I got a bunch of the Shelly 2.5 after watching. Tasmotized them immediately. What a pleasure to work with these things, after my years of making the equivalent myself by combining a power supply, Wemos D1, and a relay board - real challenge to squeeze them into a switch box.
Good on you for addressing some of the isolation and safety related concerns. It's interesting that the Shelly product is actually safer than the Sonoff _because_ it has no isolation. It forces your (or more specifically, your electrician) to take precautions.
Great video, I like that it is 16a, and so small that it fits so nicely into a box, some competition for sonoff. My wife plugged a 1500w electric grill to a sonoff basic extention cord, drawing approx 12.5a. It smoked the relay and melted the case.
The isolated relay and 16A rating makes it perfect for switching baseboard heaters without a wall mounted thermostat connected to it, as long as you power the Shelly 1 from another source.
thanks to you and your knwoledge I bought the shelly 1! Working like a charm already. I had to make the montage in the ceiling due to the absence of a neutral wire.
I can see this working really well in the UK at the light pendant end instead of the switch end where you have access to neutral/live and switched live connections - I’ve ordered one based on this video ... thanks 👍
thank you for reviewing these side by side. this is content i want to see on youtube. subscribed
I feel like this is the perfect device for people like me who get nervous of the thought of leaving their sonoff basics inside a switch box.
Yep, I agree
i don't think this is any safer than a sonoff behind a light switch. if you wire up the sonoff to the light switch in the same way you wire up the shelly 1, i don't see any reason or evidence why one would be safer than the other. Although if using the sonoff basic i think the terminals are a little crappy.
Looking to do the same, anyone know what US standard or certification needed to do this? UL Listed? Are these certified?
They are working on a UL cert, for now they just have CE and RoHS as is required for europe.
@@TheHookUp although mine says RoHS 'COMPILANT'.....not 'COMPLIANT'... ;-)
Super helpful. I'm going to check out the Shelly 1 for sure. FYI, if you flip a breaker and the switch no longer turns on the light, it DOES NOT mean that there isn't a hot wire in the box. As mentioned in the video, if you don't understand electrical wiring, don't attempt installation yourself.
Yep, good point.
Looks like your video was a little more effective then they expected. They are sold out everywhere. Hope they get them back in stock as i want dozen or so.
Hi folks
Due to the high interest of Shelly1, we are currently out -of- stock. The next production batch will be ready on September 12, and orders will be shipped on a first-come-first-serve basis.
Amazon: There is 150 pcs witch are on the way to Amazon warehouse. Part of them will arrive today. Rest will arrive at August 29/30.
Shelly2 - we have 2k+ on stock.
Thanks for good review The Hook Up.
Short update - all pre-ordered Shelly1 from our website will be shipped at Sept 15-18 . For those who want to order from Amazon US they will be aviable at Sept 20-22. Currently we make third batch witch will be aviable end of September. Anyway our shipping time are 5-7 days all over the world, you can pre-order it from us to make sure you will not be waiting again.
Well done. Superb video. This is an excellent offering and I imagine will surge the number of smart home DIYs out there. Add new home builders, custom home builders as well as general contractors to that list. Certainly, the Shelly 1appears to be an ideal OEM offering to every dumb switch manufacturer on the planet. A volume discount for the existing homeowner would be nice to see!
Great, thanks for reviewing this, it’s exactly what I’m looking for, smart switch that can also work,stand alone, for rental property. Advanced tenants can benefit from all functionality, technology averse ones use it stand alone. And being able to decide whether cloud is used or not is just great.
If you are the landlord then you're probably the best landlord haha thoughtful
Excellent guide. I have been following ur channel for a while now and the content is fabulous. Please keep building and share the knowledge.
Excellent review process. Detailed, fair and unbiased. Kudos
I thought I was a big geek, but I don't hold a candle to you. Nicely done.
Had to pull the trigger and bought one! Thanks for the great video... Like all of your videos!
Excellent video! (Minor comment: At ~12:30 in the video you say that the 16A rating allows the circuit breaker to trip before the Shelly reaches it's rated *voltage* - certainly talking about *rated current*. (I miss-speak much more often than that ;-)) ). Thanks again!
Awesome video, and really professional review. I especially liked the fact that you contributed to the open source ecosystem with the fixed you had to learn the hard way, thumbs up! You earned a subscriber.
I am Bulgarian and i like doing some IOT projects. I was very surprised that a Bulgarian Company did that product :). Great video i'll try the Shelly 1 looks nice
Shelly's products are my personal favorites
RUclips suggested me this video, I guess because I was watching Sonoff videos in the past. Really informative channel, subscribed. Also this gadget is very cool, I'm considering upgrading my switches in the future :)
Recieved a pair of Shelly1 a week ago,. Flashing was performed as usual with a Sonoff Basic, and the Tasmota firmware fixed everything. No setting of GPIO neccesary!
Amazing; it's about time this product came out. I have sonoff basics without the casings in my switchboxs and it's very sketchy. These are well worth the extra money
Excellent, informative video, as always Rob, thanks for the insights.
Nice! Great that competition is growing.
Excellent video, thanks for all your work with the tasmota files. Stay awesome!
Very interesting
Your colordescription of the various wires ofcourse is regional
For us, Europeans, it would also mean quicker shipping since they are based in Bulgaria? Will see. I am not saying Shelly is a bad product, far from it, but at the moment I am sticking with Sonoff. But definitely will monitor the situation.
I LOVE the Shelly 1. I have them in my home and I do have Sonoffs also. But the Shelly1 from size and out of the box options are GREAT... My only beef with Shelly1 (v3 is what I own) has very week reception once inside a metal switch box. had to move my modem closer to center of home. But works great.
It shows you have done a lot of research off camera , which amazes me thx for sharing this. I use a sonoff POW which has CE certification 16A capability and power measurement for a great price.
Where do you get this idea of sonoff CE certifcation? It only has certification for the radio part, not overall electrical safety.
Nick Rout The CE marking is on the unit and the box it came in. Are they allowed to do that if it only partly complies to the standard ?
what standard do they say it conforms to? The certificate on the web page only refers to RED 2014/53/EU. What do the ones on the box cover?
Nick Rout there are no details on the box or leaflet it came with. It just says CE - Rohs - FC
@@ddjazz yes so look at the certificate on the web page.
Thanks for this, I ordered a 4-pack right away. I was looking for ways to safely use a Sonoff in a switch box and just couldn't live with the issues that potentially creates. The Amazon links are no longer Prime, however and the price has also gone up a bit. It was actually cheaper to order directly from the manufacturer, international shipping included.
I've been told they will be back in stock tomorrow
Thanks for a really thorough comparison.
Need a video on how to use these with a 3 way switch!
@9:00 I think most light switches are not set up the way you mentioned, or I've lived in places with bad wiring. Usually (not all the time) there are only TWO wires behind the switch wall plate, and well actually those two wires are actually the same one with the switch in between.
Not sure what is the norm, but on your diagram you have the positive/live wire going to switch, the other wire connected to the switch would be the "out". So basically when you turn the switch "on" it connects both ends of cable, which sends the current to the light bulb.
So again, from my experience when there is only a light switch on a wall plate, we only have positive/live wire or ground wire. This means most users would have to probably put the shelly1 up on the celiing where they light fixture actually is. We are guaranteed to have both the positive wire and the ground wire up there, otherwise light wouldn't turn on.
Doesn't that hold true for most homes?
In Tennessee a switch box uses one piece of #12 AWG and uses the white (neutral) wire to go back to light fixture as Hot instead of neutral. In my case I'll have to install in the light fixture box in order to power the Shelly.
The light not turning on is NOT A VALID TEST, the switched wire could be the return. You should always, always check with a multi meter or a live tester. Mostly the problem is when someone wires a switch wrong (switched the return instead of the feed) the light turns off, but still has a live feed going to it.
Very good review. For me this little blue thing is clearly a winner. Thank you!
Lucky to have you, their web info is not that clear. Thanks!
An important consideration in selecting the Shelly or Sonoff for 240 VAC in the U.S. is the number of poles that are switched. I have a Sonoff and it is single pole and cannot be safely used by itself to operate a 240 VAC device in the U.S. The number of poles in the switches was not covered in the comparison video. A single pole switch may be fine in the EU and elsewhere, but not in the U.S. The reason is simple. In the U.S. the standard electric service from a electric utility is provided on three wires connected to the secondary winding of a power transformer. The three wires are L1, Neutral, and L2. The Neutral wire is the center tap of the secondary winding of the transformer and is connected to the Earth. If you measure the voltage between the Neutral wire and L1 the reading will be 120 VAC and the voltage between L2 and Neutral will also be 120 VAC. The voltage between L1 and L2 is 240 VAC. If you examine a 240 VAC circuit breaker in the lighting panel it will be either a single lever (such as the Main) or a ganged double lever (for the branch circuits). The double lever guarantees that if the breaker trips or is turned off, both L1 and L2 will be disconnected from the load. If only L1 or L2 tripped or was turned off, the the load circuit would be hot with 120 VAC all the way through the load back to the load terminal on the off breaker. This is a very hazardous condition. A safe way to use the Sonoff for controlling 240 VAC devices is to use the Sonoff to control a double pole relay so that both L1 and L2 are turned on and off at the same time.
I don't think I would recommend a shelly or a sonoff for switching 240VAC in the US for exactly the reasons you described.
Comparing the PCB traces on the Sonoff Basic vs. the Shelly shows that while the Shelly relay may be rated for 16A, the PCB traces certainly are not. Sonoff uses a thick lay of solder on their relay traces to handle the current. The Shelly traces appear to be only copper with presumably some inside the multi layer board. Definitely would not run 16A through it. Without knowing the weight of copper they used on the board, I can only guess based on trace width and say about 5A would be a comfortable limit.
I mentioned it in another comment, but the biggest thing to consider for current rating is the length of the traces. The sonoff's input/output traces run the entire length of the board, which is about 3", the input/output traces on the shelly 1 are about 1/4". Ultimately, that's the reason why the sonoff had to cover the traces in solder.
That being said, I wonder if we could get John Ward to blow one up for us.
I think some destructive testing is in order. If only I had the time...True on the length however we are still talking about an unknown copper weight within the board. I do like the idea of the Shelly in that it easily fits within a device box, and the built in switch input. Now, if only someone would cheaply produce the same thing but with a real Ethernet interface instead of WiFi.
I tweeted at John Ward to see if he would be interested in blowing one up, but I haven't heard back from him. I don't have a stick welder so It would be hard for me to put a setup together to push 16+ A constant voltage.
Aaroncake!!!!! Literally one of my favorite you tubers! Great to see you in the depths of the comment section. Just so ya know I'm seriously using the same approach for locking my car. I've just gotta figure how to retain original look and function but have RFID locks. Thanks for the inspiration on that though
Great video! Thanks for introducing this new smart home device.
I like the idea of dry contacts that the Shelly has but I also like low voltage switching of sonoff
Amazing informative video. Thank you for your time in producing this great video. Can't wait to get my hands on it Shelly 1 and play. 😁
*sigh!*
Another product added to my tinker list. :(
Thanks for the excellent review, Rob!!
Looks nice... My only problem is just the fact, that we don't have neutral in the switches. But this looks so small that it could fit the electrical wiring box so I'll probably give it a try :)
I like the shelly and your presentation skills...kudos to you!! Love from India
Also, _always_ be careful when adding the N wire to the existing bundle. It is not uncommon to have bad wiring where the return path for a different circuit shares the N bundle in a switch box for a different circuit. Everything will appear disconnected until you separate the existing N bundle, at which point some of the N wires will be live (through any currently ON devices on the other circuit). Always treat it as such and don't unnecessarily un-bundle the existing bundle, or check it for live after you do so. It's usually obvious because of sparking as you take it apart. Also be aware that you may have more than one circuit in a single switch box, particularly if you have many two-way switches. Always check for live wires even after you've verified the light is off.
Good advice, crappy wiring practices are always dangerous and you never know what a previous homeowner has done.
As a professional electrician, please seriously reconsider cramming a relay and a bunch of extra wiring in your switch's box. There's a concept called Box Fill, the short of it is that if you cram too much into an electrical box there won't be enough room for all the components to cool off; you're basically turning the box into a kiln. Please refer to your local code for box fill; if you cannot get a hold of that information and you're in the USA, I'd recommend checking the NEC (NFPA 70) or use the Ugly's Book (NFPA 70E) as a quick reference. The Ugly's Book can be bought from Amazon or Lowe's for $20-30 and has just about all the important info.
It's really a crapshoot on whether or not that whole "16A" rating is worth a shit; it's *very* common to see 20A circuits for your outlets these days. Also the +1A is worth fuckall on a 15A breaker, as an FYI. If the breaker fails, you get a fire; if the breaker trips, the power is killed before a 15A device would fail (the whole point of having the breaker to begin with). All that matters is the lowest common denominator; make sure it's the breaker.
just got my 8 sonoff basics in to put behind wall switches :) will see where they don't fit there this would be a good alternative!
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and share it with all of us. Do you know if there is a solution for folks that have 3-way switches in the wall and do not have neutral wires in the box? I am of course subscribed with notifications turned on and thumbs up!
The biggest problem I see with installing this into a light-switch box as shown in the video is that when activated, the light will be on (illuminated), but the physical light switch will still be down in the "OFF" position.
So the only way to turn off a light activated via the Shelly1 is to use the web/mobile interface, the physical switch will not turn it off.
(Yes, I know that if you activate the light using the physical switch, then that switch will work as normal).
That's not true. There are different switch modes to make the switch act however you want it (edge/toggle/momentary/follow).
@@TheHookUp
So how does it actually move the switch lever? Do you have to buy a special light switch?
Love this, and continue to love your stuff. That said, are there any open source options for higher voltage stuff like washers, dryers, and dishwashers?
For those I think you just need to scale up the same solution with a bigger external relay - using either the Shelly or Sonoff - connect through a Functional Devices RIB relay (Relay In a Box). Many different configurations available 110V/220V dual phase switching (SPDT/DPDT), up to 30A and even up to 600V. Almost all of them can be configured with a 120V AC coil to control the relay. I have automated 220V Pool 20A Pumps with these using Lutron switches for control - works great.
Thanks, it covers a lot, that was so helpful.
Great Alternative, awesome. Seems to have a real CE sign so the European insurance companies should not bother the usage in case anything should happen?!
In Sweden the CE is useless. We have national certifications that are required instead, else an electrician won't touch it with a ten feet pole!
John Bäckstrand thanks. I have no idea how this is in Germany, but yet I did not touch Sonoff as I do not want to risk my house getting lit up and the insurance not paying due to a missing certificate/sign
@@prapse die sonoff Geräte haben ein CE Zeichen.
@ CE is a "self certificate". In Italy we have strict rules about electrical equipment.
@ CE is a "self certificate". In Italy we have strict rules about electrical equipment.
Thanks so much for this great video!
Finally received my first Shelly devices, the headers are not visible anymore.. At least not on the ones I received.
They have a little rubber cover on them now, just pull it out
Is the Shell UL listed for installation into a power box? The NEC code requires UL listing and if not your fire insurance may not cover your damages. Has Shelly determined the fill and size of the box for installation? I am an electrician and electrical engineer.
Love the videos! Have you ever considered one on room presence detection? Or do you not use it?
I feel with a decent presence detection a lot of automations open up.
Price is a bit higher. So it’s like a premium brand sonoff
You should make a new video comparing the Shelly to the Sonoff mini
I have a sonoff mini ordered, hasn't been delivered yet
Cool breakdown. Thank you.
relay is rated at 16A, not a chance that screw terminal is. cut the relay rating in half on these things.
Hi and thanks for all your great video! I decided to start automating my home because of your videos! I'm not sure which device to choose. How does the relay clicking noise compare between the Shelly and the Sonoff?
thx for the detailed review !
Very good video, thanks. Just a general FYI: Currently, (November 18, 2018) Amazon lists:
SHELLY 1 One Smart Relay Switch Wireless WiFi Home Automation iOS Android Application (2 Pack) >>>>>Currently, there are no sellers that can deliver this item to your location.>>> and.....SHELLY 2 - Wireless Dual Relay Switch Smart Home Automation>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Currently unavailable.
Yeah, they are selling like crazy and having trouble keeping up with the demand. Check shelly.cloud website for production information.
I notice in almost 100% of the example Arduino code shown in videos uses the loop function. I understand from a quick and dirty demo standpoint. My question is...I have a project that constantly polls for an input. It is going to run 24/7/365. Does this constand polling over heat the processor? Would it be better to setup this up on an interrupt? I am not concerned with power, just with overheating or wearing out the processor. Thank you for your videos and sharing your knowlege.
Really nice video an great comparison to sonoff
Very good!! This is a true information!!
I'm choosing between SmartLife noname devices and eWelink (sonoff) for
my home automation. Which one is the better and why? In future i'am planning to
use that devices in Openhab+mqtt environment (without chineese cloud).
Good job - covered a lot of pros/cons
First of all: tank You so much for your work! I am from Italy, and I am just beginning to learn about domotic and home automation because I will soon have to renovate my house. Here in Italy there is an always increasing demand of DIY or alternative domotic solutions.... for example there usually is difficulty in buying some types of Sonoff switches... So if You are in contact with the Producers of Shelly, please let them know that could be a huge demand in this Country (even for similar solutions for blinds and/or external window shades)! I also agree with You about trying not to depend too much on the "clouds" and various "external" apps: this is why I am also practicing with Home Assistant (Hass.io) and its integrations. Really nice work!!!!
Are you able to order though their website? shelly.cloud/
I will try, thank You, but having it available on Amazon.it (since I saw that You have provided Amazon.us' links) would really be great! Also, at a first glance, I could not see any product for automating the type of blinds/shades we use here in Italy (for example: integration with physical switches, interlocking, status updating, etc....): it would be great if they could provide such a product: it will literally bust the market (right now many use the Sonoff 4Ch pro, but it has no status update on Home Assistant and it is very difficult to flash other firmwares - ex Tasmota - into the newer versions). Again, thank You for your impressive knowledge and work!!!!
Axios hello, in next 2-weeks the devices will be available in Amazon.it
Anyway we are Bulgarian based company and shipping time from us to any EU country, including Italy are 3-5 working days.
Awesome video and channel. Great reviews man, best of luck to you! Subbed
Good review about Tasmodo. What about the product itself? I'm sure I'm not the only one who uses sonoff as is without flashing.
You made no mention of the fact that you need to modify the sonoff firmware if your going to use it in "switchmode", and for those who can't seem to grasp even basic coding that's a deal breaker.
Hello Robert! I have a Shelly 1, not flashed with Tasmoto yet but I am contemplating the following project: I need to install a fresh air fan into a vent in our basement. For this I want to use a 12V fan like a high quality PC fan 120mm or 140mm size. The fan should be able to be controlled via home assistant to turn on/off and adjust speed in some steps (4-6 steps perhaps). To adjust speed I was thinking of using a transistor controlled swith to cut the 12v to adjust the speed. MQTT or Rest could be used. I was hoping to not have to buy an external transistor switch but use the internal in Shelly 1. Do you think that could be done? Your views and ideas yould be very much apprechiated. Thansk for great videos!
Thanks for the review. I may go back to my original plan of using cheap wifi based devices for my smart switches.
I just need to figure out how to do multi-way switches (without relying on the home automation system to relay signals).
Both tasmota and the shelly app have scheduling built in if that's what you mean.
@@TheHookUp Autocorrect got me. I meant to say multi-way, not multi-day.
I want a solution for all the two-way and three-way switches in my house that doesn't rely on the switches communicating with each other through some external system. If that system (eg home assistant) goes down, the switches should still work. This is important to me partly because I don't plan to stay in this house the rest of my life, and I don't want to have to replace all of the switches if/when I sell the place.
I have the same issue. All my switches at home or almost all of them are at least two-ways or even three-ways so I need a solution that works in this setup (and to obtain waf it has to work even when no system is running)
Hey Ron , great review and device oh the possibilities . Though in Australia in looking at $24.00 AUD each. bit of an extreme price at the moment but I’m sure it will be cheaper once on eBay soon enough. So I thought I would check out the sonoff wall switch t1 . Can have delivered for $13.00 AUD. So will buy one of both to check out. Thanks for the great info. Really enjoying all of your video, heads up to drzzs as well for introducing your channel.....
Hello, we just open Amazon.au store and in 2 weeks they will be prime available.
@@dimitardimitrov849 Hi Dimitar. I just wanted to see if you had, or are looking at, the Australian C Tick certification? Which I think would be: AS/NZS 4417.1
The reason I ask, is they are technically not legal here without it, so if they were found after a fire, etc. Insurance would not pay out anything. So just want to be sure before purchasing!
@@amanimmortal SAA certification cost's a bit and takes time, most small producers won't get the certification due to cost, I don't think the Sonoff T1 has genuine certification, ebay sellers are saying it has but not producing the certification numbers correctly, Sonoff Basic is not certified.
Damn, the Australia tax is real.... $34.99 + delivery for two from Amazon AU :\
Stumbled on your Shelly video. Awesome video and well produced. Thanks for this content. I'm a complete newbie to this with some general diy skills. Shelly looks to be the solution I'm looking for to control my garage and front door exterior lights. Do you think I can use the Shelly without the firmware swap?
Absolutely, it works quite well with the stock firmware if that’s what you prefer
gREAT VIDEO, THANX FOR YOUR TIME. i´D LIKE TO KNOW IF THERE´S ANY WAY THAT I CAN REMOVE OR JUST TURN OFF THE GREEN LIGHT ON THE SONOFF BASIC. THANK U SO MUCH
may be it will a good wifi switch in the future in (Aliexpress), in my country amazon is not available
They sell from eBay and their own website too, check those.
I'm using both shelly 2 and sonoff in my house. I think if the sonoff are installed without removing the outer casing they are safer.
I think we can all agree that the screw in terminals on both the shelly 2 and the sonoff are not the best. The screw in terminals on the shelly PCB are marginally better (more heavy duty), but they are still fairly weak and easy to strip if you screw down to hard. In fact if you screw down the terminals on the sonoff really hard the terminals can actually rotate slightly as well. I think the plastic used in the shelly terminals is better quality. The reason I think the sonoff is marginally safer is because the outer casing of the sonoff has further screw down 'crocodile' style fastening that secures the 240V wires into the casing. This means that the stress point of the wires if you are pulling on them is where they attached to the case rather than the terminals. The stress point of the Shelly is the PCB terminals.
If you install both these devices correctly and safely then I think the sonoff is less likely to fail. The most critical and dangerous point is the terminals attaching the mains voltage to the PCB. The shelly is most likely to fail at this point. A critical failure at this point would either trip the fuse or cause a fire.
PS: When I install sonoffs I run GPIO14 and ground through a pair of 22ga wires to the light switch and I wire it up to a mains voltage electrically isolated light switch (even though the sonoff's switching wires only carry 3.3V).
Sounds like a good setup. Are you able to fit the sonoff in your switch box? Ultimately the biggest advantage of the shelly is size, but if you have a giant switch box the sonoff works just as well if not better (for the reasons you state).
That being said, with the new firmware updates for the shelly it is totally usable without modification, whereas I'd never trust a non-flashed sonoff in my house due to privacy concerns.
@@TheHookUp It's a very tight fit, I have some sonoff without casing (DIY electrical duct tape case) and the other sonoff are in the casing. My house is in New Zealand and was built in 1965. The original switch boxes are made of metal and are sized 70 x 50 mm with a depth of 35mm. I've replaced with a new plastic electrical flush box that measures 90 x 60 mm with depth of 35 mm. Both boxes fit the same face-plate/switch. The new plastic switchbox is not solid, it is a frame, I cut away some of the frame in the side / back and this allows me additional room inside the wall to fit larger devices including chocolate box connectors. The wall cavity is 90mm depth because the house uses 4x2 studs.
Photo of switchbox (aka Flushbox) - www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/hpm-flushbox-single-white/p/105534
Another negative to the Sonoff Basic R2 is that you have to waste the time DE-soldering the plugged serial holes in the latest "basics" and then install header pins. Or use the "Sonoff programming clip" and of course if you want to use the GPIO's you need pins anyway.
I have pulled apart and sonoff 16 and the relay is a 10a relay. Looking at the data sheet of the relay confirms this.
I try to understand the part where you explain the GPIO shouldn't be used when connected to main voltage. I can use the shelly with the Temperature Sensor AddOn to switch a small 220v operated heating element (to prevent animal drinking water from freezing whent outside temp < 0° for example)?
LOVE this product idea, and your videos! QUESTION: as used for home automation in the United States, would you recommend waiting to install until after a UL certification has been issued for liability concerns? Thank you!
It isn't a deal breaker for me personally, but every person needs to make that decision for themselves.
A great video. As they are smaller than the Sonoff basic will probably use them on my wall switches.
Have you checked out the ShellyRGBW, I would love your opinion on it and if possible a video.
Awesome video! I can think of a few applications for this....
One question: did I understand correctlymthat you can't pull the gpio0 pin to ground? If so, how do you put it into flash mode?
Great videos! Can you elaborate on functionality when wall switch is off? Can you still use app (cloud/local) to turn light on? Or does the wall switch need to remain in the on position permanently? Or Does the wall switch 'flip' functionality if app is used?
Again, thanks for all the great videos!...
The switch and the shelly can both be used, switch position doesn't affect anything.
So that means that you turn on from the switch, then turn off from the app, and then when you touch the switch again, the light will turn again, right?
Yes. If you use switchMode 0 in tasmota it will toggle the next time you flip the switch. switchMode 1 will require you to put the switch in the correct position (up for on, down for off) so you would need to move the rocker switch twice.
@@TheHookUp nice! Let's try them!
Thanks Tgosnell73! That was exactly what I was concerned about as well. Most of us are already used to the concept of "toggling" since we have so many 3-way switches in our world. So, the idea that you might flip the switch "down" to turn it on is NOT all that hard to get used to.
This is device might be a good option, especially if they can improve their price-point by ramping-up the number of units they manufacture.
Dear all. Unfortunately Shelly2 manufacturing delay because we waiting the Power management IC from Microchip.
If you have an order that includes Shelly2, we will ship the other devices on time. Shelly2 will be sent separately. Expected date is 15.October.
Great video! Just bought 7 :')
We release new firmware version for Shelly devices. Ver 1.2.0 Change log:
+ Shelly1 and Shelly2 Wi-Fi disconnecting issue resolved
+ Improved cloud connection all devices
+ Shelly Bulb color mode issues resolved
+ Send command over CoIoT can be disables/enabled all devices
+ Add manual time zone and geo-location settings all devices
Next version scheduled end of the September'2018. Targeted issues/improvements:
+ MQTT support
+ + ESP based Shelly2 devices will show aviable Wi-Fi networks.
+ Selly2 roller shutte mode improvements
+ ...
Hi, nice work really. I m just wondering if you can make a similar device with higher than 16amps; something like 20 or even 30 amps. I need them to control the air conditioner. Thanks.
Is ir possible to control DC lights with the Shelly 1?
If I wire in the 2.5 to a light fitting, will the bulb be controllable via Home Assistant, regardless of whether the physical switch is on or off? OR if I wire one into a 2-gang light switch (2 switches controlling 2 bulbs), would I only need one of the Shelly 2.5s? Would they again be controllable regardless of the switch position? Lastly, I have 10 LED spotlights in the kitchen; how many Shellys would I need to control them? I’m a little unclear about these devices, but I think they’re what I’m looking for.
What do I need to control thru any wifi signal; NOT a phone Nearby; remote wifi control . ? switch that can receive wifi commands. ?
I have a question about using the switch sensor. If you use the switch to turn the light on and off and then while the switch is in off position you use the app to engage the relay what happens when you put the switch in the on position while it is already on? Does it turn off the light or do nothing? To turn off the light from the switch do you have to put the switch into the on position then off again? How does app control and physical switch coexist, what is their behavior? Thank you
Perfect, thank you.
(And shelly 2 with tasmota as a roller shutter would be great :-)
It's hard for me to do because roller shutters are not common here in the states.
Can i control multiple smart plugs which is connected to different WiFis from cloud?
I wanted a smart ceiling fan but in UK I've not had much luck. I was thinking could I get a Shelly to use purely on the fan side of the light? Since it's small it will fit easily. I already have the light control with a WiFi bulb. Thanks