Its common in the UK to not have a neutral or earth at a light switch so no risk. The reason this Sonoff module is helpful is that it doesn't need a neutral, where some (I believe built for USA do).
@@SpectrumGeeks ok so you're using a ZigBee hub to connect it the network ? Apologies for the basic questions - trying to figure it out given the amount of different switches they have - thanks
@@SpectrumGeeksyou will always/ should have an Earth at every electrical point, if for some reason you change a switch for a metal faceplate you would then use that Earth to protect the user. If not using Earth then you should sleeve it and terminate it with a Wago. A lot of modern lighting circuits you will find are wired with power to the switch so you will now find it not uncommon to find a neutral at the switch these will be terminated as in the switch to your garden lights.
@@petergrimshaw8291Thanks for commenting / clarifying. I was more referring to its common in the UK to find no neutral on a UK light switch, especially in older properties.. As you can see in the video, I have the earth there at the switch connected to a wago.
It is worth knowing that the test are you used to prove dead should conform with the requirements set out in GS 38. Ideally a contact testing method is needed
Ideally I would agree. I personally have a KT1780 tester that is GS38 compliant, but a volt pen is cheap and most people would have. Also as I am not an electrician I am not going to advise people on specifics, other than to check power is off. Also if people if do not feel comfortable / competent they should seek professional help. Thanks for commenting.
@@SpectrumGeeks the issue is using a volt pen can fail and it has failed in the past if you use one on the daily basis you start to know they’re not as a good as they see there are nice indication but they have a high failure rate and it is worth knowing that although if you’re not grabbing the end of wires, you are probably going to be okay
Thanks for the video. I have installed the switches but couldn't make them work with the Hue Bridge either. As I understand it, do you use another Zigbee hub/bridge to actually get them discovered? Also, do you know what happens when the power goes out, let's say for a day or so? Do they need to be paired again? I am asking because I want to place one under a mirror.
Seems the Philips Hue bridge doesn't play well with others, unless its "Friends of Hue". Does not need repairing after a power outage, not as far as I have experience anyway.
Are you still using the ZBMINIL2? Do they still work? I have two of them used in the kitchen, they don't live long. After a few months, they become no responsive. At start, I could reset and pair again, but later on it's completely dead. I have replaced 3 under waranty, but now given up completely. For me, it's not reliable and do not live long. What's your experience on it, are they reliable to you?
Still using mine without any real issues. Every now and again the motion sensor will not trigger its activation, but in general its working as expected.
Yes. You could create a routine in the Smart Things App for example to do this, so I think it will depend on the capabilities of the Zigbee controller you pair it with.
The normal ZBMini (not extreme, not L) *is* properly compatible with the Philips Hue ecosystem. It needs a neutral but you can wire that with a couple of diodes and a cap if need be
Thanks Dale, really interesting and useful. What a great solution, just a minor gripe that that that sonoff device is end point only. I struggle with ZigBee range around our house and have had to add a couple of cheap Ikea ZigBee repeaters. Odd that a mains powered? ZigBee device would not act as a mesh/repeater.
Yeah, you would think with mains power it would have all the bells and whistles. I can only assume its either a size constraint, or a more expensive version gives the extender / repeater support.
The only change that you will find when using a flip/toggle light switch is that it then behaves like a two-way switch - e.g. like a landing light that is controlled by both a switch at the top of the stairs and a switch at the bottom of the stairs. Essentially, it means that the position of the physical switch will not map directly to the state of the light(s) - In a standard UK single pole switch up is off and down is on. But when a Sonoff is added this might change. Example: The phsyical switched is clicked down and the lights turn on, Later the Sonoff is used to turn the lights off - But the physical switch is still in the down position, if it is clicked to the Up position the lights will turn on. Hence like a two-way Landing Light
Hi Dale, hope all is well. I watched this last week but forgot to respond !! I have many Sonoff devices controlling lighting and water features and also remotely control lighting at our statc home in Devon. It all works really well.
What i find frustrating is the lack of the ability to control this with a mobile widget switch with Android (and iOS??). Users have to open an App before controlling the switch. Ideally i want a ‘button’ on my mobile that i can just use as a proxy wall light switch.
Ewelink widget is available.... I just logged into the app and i can choose a device when selecting the widget. I never used ZigBee but i imagine you'll be able to sync it up with the app somehow. I have a sonoff wifi relay on my widget easily
In order to avoid arguments with your other/better half is well put 😀
Political correctness is important when you don't know who is watching :)
Just set up a home assistant with a zigbee stick.
Nice.
What is the risk if this doesn't use Neutral or Earth ? and what do you do with those two cables that you're not using ?
Its common in the UK to not have a neutral or earth at a light switch so no risk. The reason this Sonoff module is helpful is that it doesn't need a neutral, where some (I believe built for USA do).
@@SpectrumGeeks ok so you're using a ZigBee hub to connect it the network ? Apologies for the basic questions - trying to figure it out given the amount of different switches they have - thanks
@@RT-tr9cq Yes a ZigBee hub, specifically the Samsung Smart Things Hub as I had it already.
@@SpectrumGeeksyou will always/ should have an Earth at every electrical point, if for some reason you change a switch for a metal faceplate you would then use that Earth to protect the user. If not using Earth then you should sleeve it and terminate it with a Wago. A lot of modern lighting circuits you will find are wired with power to the switch so you will now find it not uncommon to find a neutral at the switch these will be terminated as in the switch to your garden lights.
@@petergrimshaw8291Thanks for commenting / clarifying. I was more referring to its common in the UK to find no neutral on a UK light switch, especially in older properties.. As you can see in the video, I have the earth there at the switch connected to a wago.
It is worth knowing that the test are you used to prove dead should conform with the requirements set out in GS 38. Ideally a contact testing method is needed
Ideally I would agree. I personally have a KT1780 tester that is GS38 compliant, but a volt pen is cheap and most people would have. Also as I am not an electrician I am not going to advise people on specifics, other than to check power is off. Also if people if do not feel comfortable / competent they should seek professional help.
Thanks for commenting.
@@SpectrumGeeks the issue is using a volt pen can fail and it has failed in the past if you use one on the daily basis you start to know they’re not as a good as they see there are nice indication but they have a high failure rate and it is worth knowing that although if you’re not grabbing the end of wires, you are probably going to be okay
Thanks for the video. I have installed the switches but couldn't make them work with the Hue Bridge either. As I understand it, do you use another Zigbee hub/bridge to actually get them discovered? Also, do you know what happens when the power goes out, let's say for a day or so? Do they need to be paired again? I am asking because I want to place one under a mirror.
Seems the Philips Hue bridge doesn't play well with others, unless its "Friends of Hue". Does not need repairing after a power outage, not as far as I have experience anyway.
Are you still using the ZBMINIL2? Do they still work? I have two of them used in the kitchen, they don't live long. After a few months, they become no responsive. At start, I could reset and pair again, but later on it's completely dead. I have replaced 3 under waranty, but now given up completely. For me, it's not reliable and do not live long. What's your experience on it, are they reliable to you?
Still using mine without any real issues. Every now and again the motion sensor will not trigger its activation, but in general its working as expected.
Is it possible to create a schedule with them so lights switch on and off automatically at night?
Yes. You could create a routine in the Smart Things App for example to do this, so I think it will depend on the capabilities of the Zigbee controller you pair it with.
The normal ZBMini (not extreme, not L) *is* properly compatible with the Philips Hue ecosystem. It needs a neutral but you can wire that with a couple of diodes and a cap if need be
Good to know, thanks.
This swich work whit 5,0 GHz or 2.4 GHz wifi???
It uses Zigbee not your home WiFi network.
So you need some form of Zigbee hub to communicate with it.
Thanks Dale, really interesting and useful. What a great solution, just a minor gripe that that that sonoff device is end point only. I struggle with ZigBee range around our house and have had to add a couple of cheap Ikea ZigBee repeaters. Odd that a mains powered? ZigBee device would not act as a mesh/repeater.
Yeah, you would think with mains power it would have all the bells and whistles.
I can only assume its either a size constraint, or a more expensive version gives the extender / repeater support.
so if i turn on the lights with the normal switch then turn it off with my application can i turn it on flipping the switch again?
Yup
The only change that you will find when using a flip/toggle light switch is that it then behaves like a two-way switch - e.g. like a landing light that is controlled by both a switch at the top of the stairs and a switch at the bottom of the stairs. Essentially, it means that the position of the physical switch will not map directly to the state of the light(s) - In a standard UK single pole switch up is off and down is on. But when a Sonoff is added this might change. Example: The phsyical switched is clicked down and the lights turn on, Later the Sonoff is used to turn the lights off - But the physical switch is still in the down position, if it is clicked to the Up position the lights will turn on. Hence like a two-way Landing Light
Hi Dale, hope all is well. I watched this last week but forgot to respond !! I have many Sonoff devices controlling lighting and water features and also remotely control lighting at our statc home in Devon. It all works really well.
Thanks for sharing Nigel, this is my first one, but seems to work really well so far.
What i find frustrating is the lack of the ability to control this with a mobile widget switch with Android (and iOS??). Users have to open an App before controlling the switch. Ideally i want a ‘button’ on my mobile that i can just use as a proxy wall light switch.
Yeah its not perfect, but working great in my use case.
Ewelink widget is available....
I just logged into the app and i can choose a device when selecting the widget. I never used ZigBee but i imagine you'll be able to sync it up with the app somehow. I have a sonoff wifi relay on my widget easily
@@cooliipie are you on Android or iOS? I can use the eWeLink widgets on my Android phone, but only for other devices, not the Sonoff switch.
could I use other branded zb hub ?
Yeah, I think as long as it supports Zigbee 3.0 you should be good.