Thank you very much. I live in Ireland. I had these switches for the last one year but once when I saw the wiring behind the switch here was different, I just put it away. Thanks to your video I got it set up in 10 minutes. The wiring here is exactly like How it's is in UK. The wiring technique is the same in India as well.
@@nivaeliakim Yes! and S1 is actually permanent Live, bridged Internally to the Live input terminal. This is very different from the original sonoff mini.
Just wanted to comment to say thanks, this was the best explanation i could find online, even compared to the official stuff. It got my sonoff working beautifully. Here in the UK i did what you showed there but i had the device at the switch and used a shared live for live in and L1 on the switch via a wago. That way i could drop a 3 core and earth from the light to the switch. Cheers!
@@MyProjectBoxChannelI wonder if it would be of benefit to others if you did a video of installing the R4 from a loop at the switch (neutral at switch) on a 2 or 3 way circuit? i certainly know that i hunted around the internet looking for such a thing!
In Poland we have the same system in Homes. Appartments have a newer system "without box" calles who provide LPEN from box to box to box... but this is in new appartments.
Mostly the UK has switched to "two plate" wiring in newer houses, where the live and neutral are taken to the switch and then on to the light. This makes it much easier to upgrade to smart switches or relays of course. However, there are still benefits of the "three plate" system you show here, and it was the norm until perhaps the early 2000s and is still used today in some cases. You do find the "EU" method of 2/3 way wiring in older houses using twin and earth, but it can lead to an issue with what we call a "borrowed neutral", especially when it's used on stairwells. The live in at the ground switch may be on the downstairs lighting, while the neutral at the landing light is on the upstairs lighting circuit. That makes it hard to isolate individual circuits safely so can be a danger to those who aren't aware of it. It also will cause tripping if the Live and the Neutral are on different RCDs/RCBOs.
I do like having the neutral at the light switch, it just makes sense these days😉. At college, back in 2012, I was still taught the 3-plate method (as a sparky, coming from South Africa to the UK, it was quite alien to me🤣). I remember arguing with my teacher, that we will need to take the neutral to the switch, to make the future-proof, for electronic switches, like PIR motion sensors. I guess 2-plate, 3-way Uk lighting, is still wired the same as in this video. Just with "everything" going to the first switch. I have seen some light switches with a "parking terminal" for the neutral. That saves a connector behind the switch. It's a nice touch. I have some "experimental" no-neutral circuits, If you are interested ruclips.net/video/oBR5O391m_c/видео.html ruclips.net/video/9hQFFsBkxaU/видео.html
I have a two way lighting circuit and I'd like to put the zigbee version of this behind one switch. Where should I connect the switched live and the supply live? Thanks
I've just done this using the wifi version as shown in the video here but I think the method I used will work for you (other than there being no neutrals to worry about on your version). What I had to do is look at the two locations were my 2 way light switches are located to work out which end had the switched live wire that runs to the bulb. My switches were wired in that L1 is the Common terminal, L2 has the permanent lives connected (so always on or hot); and L3 was the switched live wire. One of my two way switches only had 1 wire connected to the L3 terminal, so it is not possible to use this switch -though make a note of the colour of the wire (it was black for me - it may help for the next step). The other light switch had 2 wires connected to the L3 terminal. They were both in a sleeve, one wire was black and the other was brown. So I knew that the brown wire here goes to the bulbs. So I removed the sleeve off the two wires and wired the brown bulb wire to the live out on the Mini R4. The next step is to get a small length of wire that will go from the S2 terminal on the mini R4 to the L3 terminal on the switch which will also have that black wire also connected to it. So it is more or less the same method used in this video. Hope this helps.
This is an excellent explanation on how to wire these, thank you! Is it possible to use this method with a 2 way switch that turns on 2 lights? (2 lights in hallway with a switch downstairs and upstairs)
Yes you can, providing you have the UK wiring method used in this video. You just won't have the middle/ intemperate switch. You will have to connect the MINI-R4 at the first light/ceiling rose, that connects to the switch lines. The first ceiling rose just feeds the next light. It all depends on how your house is wired.
Hi, I'm just wondering... is there any behavioural difference between connecting the switch isolated (using S1 and S2) or having the switch live (using just S2)?
It should work exactly the same. The mini-4 and mini-R4M, have the S1 terminal, internally directly connected/bridged to L-in. That why you don't always need to connect S1. This is different from the mini-R2, that can only have a isolated switch connected to both S1 and S2.
This is fantastic! I'm looking at getting their Matter device, but I need some information for my situation. I have a kitchen/diner with one bulb in the kitchen area, and another in the dining area. These bulbs are connected to a single fixture that has 2 switches (one for the kitchen area, and one for the dining area). Would I be able to connect a single Sonoff device to the switches, or would I need multiple? Also, would it be best to connect it to the switch device, or the bulbs? Any help and/or information would be appreciated.
The matter version is basically identical. You can mount it were ever you want, but the thing to remember is that it requires a neutral connection to function. So anywhere were you have N L Sw-L available will work. The N connection isn't always available behind a light switch. I have a "virtual-Neutral" circuit that can help people with this problem. ruclips.net/video/mznx0xoF8Ck/видео.html I assume you are switching both lights from one switch? In that case is possible to use just one sonoff. If you would like to switch them independently you require a dual channel device or two separate devices. You will need to investigate what wiring connections you have available to you, so you can see were it can be installed.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Amazing, thank you so much for the information. I am switching both light switches from one switch, so this is good to know. I have an electrician coming round tomorrow as my wife is worried I could blow up the house 😂 but the information confirms I have made the right choice. Now to buy more of these amazing devices and have my home a Matter smart home!
Yes. I think they are both identical in every way, except for the firmware/software inside might be the only difference, as far as I can tell. Inside the pcb looks identical. It might just be possible that with a firmware upgrade, you could make the mini-R4 matter compatible, in the future.
Thanks! I try Shelly1L but my all home LEDs blinks with OFF state even if I use Shelly Bypass. I buy ZBMINIL2 and WORKS AS CHARM - I BUY 10x of them now :) Thanks for this sonoff with no neutral info! ZBMINIL2 is winner :)
No problem 😉. I also have a universal "no-neutral bypass" design, for more options. ruclips.net/video/fT3YztU2MYE/видео.html ruclips.net/video/8h29-0rpQJo/видео.html
I have purchased a SONOFF MINIR4 to make an application, with Alexa creating a routine, to my solar energy system. The idea is that it tells me when I have power from the electric company and when I don't...the question is, can I put a 120v cable on the S2 so that it tells me when there is power and when the power went out?...thanks
Yes and No🤣. I need more information to tell you if its possible. Is the minir4 being powered by one supply and trying to detect a different power supply, to see if that different power supply is still on or not?? You can not mix different power supplys. To do it safely you need to somehow isolate the S1 and S2 input from the other power supply, maybe with a relay or optocupler. Could you possibly give me more information.
What a fantastic video: really clear, and I had not thought of getting a bigger ceiling rose cover, but I cannot seem to find one anywhere in the UK; please could you post a link for the one you showed? Also, I am using a different make of WiFi switch, but I suspect very similar internals; the one I am using, however, warns against using a live feed on the S1/S2 contacts, and I was unsure how your circuit worked using the switched live on S2, but maybe that is specific to the Sonoff? I too was going to use the switched live from the switches on, say, S1, but I was going to disconnect the permanent live feed from the switches and use that in S2 thus creating a very low voltage manual switch circuit.
You have to be very careful with some some smart switches. Having a no volt/ isolated input to S1 and S2 in a good idea! (Some are internally referenced to neutral, and some to live!). The mini-4 can work with a switched Live on S2 only, but with the older mini-R2, the S1 and S2 needed to be isolated switch inputs! I have seen the larger ceiling rose covers in B&Q. It normally comes as a complete pendant with a edison screw bulb holder. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193009114317 www.smart-light.co.uk/product/e27-pendant-holder-orange/ www.buyitbetter.co.uk/products/elektek-pendant-light-ceiling-rose-braided-flex-e27-silicone-lamp-holder?variant=30342332776514
Well, the UK wiring hurts my head when I tried to understand it at the start :D In Poland it's connected typically as you shown, it looks clean on diagram, but what installers do, they make a box somewhere in wall, when they connect all switches wiring to and the light into.... so physical wiring is a mess to debug.
Great vid. If the MINI-R4 has been switched on with zigbee to turn the light on, can one of the 3-way light switches then switch the light off or does zigbee have to be used to switch the light off again.
Thanks for the really well explained video! Do you know if the Sonoff smart relays can be used to switch further smart devices when this switch is used?
Great video! I have a question thoguh - if it's possible to do a "No neutral" version of the device, why make one that requires neutral at all? Why just not make all of them "no-neutral rquired"? :(
Good question 🤔. The problem is that there is always some compromise with "NO-NEUTRAL" designs(with my design the LED bulb needs to be able to work with DC). You do require the neutral to complete the circuit somehow, so that the smart switch can have a power supply. By not having a neutral at the smart switch, you are trying to steal power from the light bulb, without turning it on. That is why some designs have a bypass at the light bulb, or it needs to be a ultra low power device like a zigbee(not WiFi), so you don't need the bypass. There is no substitute for a real neutral at the smart switch. The next best thing is to put the smart switch directly at the light fixture. I have "designed" a smart bulb that works with a normal light switch ruclips.net/video/29QgXRgHCx4/видео.html
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks for the reply! That's actually interesting, so basically, the drawback of "no-neutral" designs is that the Live wire going to the bulb is never truly "dead" and there is alway current on the bulb which can cause flickering with some bulbs?
@@MyProjectBoxChannel yeah, and without flashing the mimir4 if possible. Its because almost everytime someone is comming to eat or sleep overnight, they press every switch and power off my smart bulbs. So that would be nice, id they can hit the button but the power stays on mo matter what, and the HA.
@@beatsizedj yes people turning off smart bulbs, is a pain 😫. I actually came up with a idea for a special smart bulb that works with a light switch, but won't be turned off by the light switch. My attempt was a bit over the top but it does prove that the concept works. Maybe some company will turn my idea into an actual product. ruclips.net/video/29QgXRgHCx4/видео.html
The ZigBee question. I have both and the wireless range is poor on the hub, and have since decided to use the 4 ch pro rf in the tech and run everything back to there with wireless switches in rooms as the wall switches here are ridiculously expensive about £30 for patress and back box equivalent, they are plastic rubbish fiddly and the monopoly of only one supplier is ridiculous, the sinoff rf switches at under £5 each and no cabling is a much simpler cheaper option. I could use WiFi bulbs but that drives the price back up.
Hi, I have the ZBMINIL2 which I believe is the ZigBee alternative to the R4. Would the setup for this be identical, just ignoring the neutral? (UK lighting and can't work out my switch lighting as they are two way switches and I didn't quite follow the logic of the diode technique in your other video). I don't quite understand the need for a neutral and whether that would change anything in the context of these wires, if the R4 is recommended then I will look to buy a few R4s instead (I do not quite understand the exact differences benefits of the neutral Vs no neutral benefits and drawbacks with smart lighting) As a side note - although I haven't got it working yet - your videos on the ZigBee products in UK circuits have been very informative and helpful, thanks for putting out such detailed content!
Yes you could connect it in the same way as in the video, just without the neutral connected. The ZBMINIL2 is actually more flexible/versatile. There are lots of different ways to connect it up. You could also put it behind a light switch, without the need for a neutral connection.
@@JackRonan I'm still in the process of making a separate video for the zigbee version 😮💨. I was going to combine the two, but decided to do the zigbee version as a different video.😉
@@MyProjectBoxChannel looking forward to watching it, it would be useful to see it wired both behind a switch and in the ceiling - sadly my plans have not gone successfully. In the ceiling rose I only have a live, neutral and earth wire, I'm guessing the live wire is powered on and off by the light switch which would just turn the sonoff on and off all the time. I will give it a go but not expecting great results. At least I've learned that the wiring in our house is confusing and messy...
@@JackRonan you can message me on Facebook messenger facebook.com/My-Project-Box-105438131355367/ or facebook.com/robert.wynmaalen so you can send some photos if the wiring.
If you use the zigbee version you won't need the neutral connection, behind a "normal" single light switch. 2-way or 3-way switching could be a potential problem in South Africa. You might need to pull a extra wire, to get to both sides of the "switch chain". Or get a extra Live supply wire from somewhere. I have workarounds for this, without pulling new wires, but it's a bit convoluted. ruclips.net/video/9hQFFsBkxaU/видео.html For just one switch you can "fake" a neutral wire ruclips.net/video/oBR5O391m_c/видео.html If you have multiple light switchs on one plate. The USA version of the switche in this video could fit in South Africa. ruclips.net/video/8h29-0rpQJo/видео.html
Excellent video explanation thanks - Am I correct in thinking that for South African purposes the live return from the light switch (live) currently going to the globe now would go to S2 which in turn would close the circuit to L out and turn on the light manually via the R4 mini?
The two lines(L & SL) going down to the switches just connect to one switch only. This is for UK 3-plate method in this video. It might be different wiring systems, depending were you live.
A switch Live input on S2 works on the mini-R2 only! The original sonoff mini requires a "volt-free" input from a switch on both s1 and s2. The older mini is different!!!
Thank you very much. I live in Ireland. I had these switches for the last one year but once when I saw the wiring behind the switch here was different, I just put it away.
Thanks to your video I got it set up in 10 minutes. The wiring here is exactly like How it's is in UK. The wiring technique is the same in India as well.
Glad it helped
Wow, thank you so much sir for sharing this video. I learned more than I did over 3 years in University. Sonoff switch is on order ;)
@@alexsoul247 I'm glad the video could be helpful 🙂. Thank you for watching 😉👍
Thanks. The live to S2 means alot to me.
@@nivaeliakim Yes! and S1 is actually permanent Live, bridged Internally to the Live input terminal. This is very different from the original sonoff mini.
Thanks
Thank you 👍
Excellent video. Just the information I needed. Thank you. ❤
Just wanted to comment to say thanks, this was the best explanation i could find online, even compared to the official stuff. It got my sonoff working beautifully. Here in the UK i did what you showed there but i had the device at the switch and used a shared live for live in and L1 on the switch via a wago. That way i could drop a 3 core and earth from the light to the switch. Cheers!
That works too😉👍. You are lucky enough to be able to pull wires down to the backbox😉. I'm glad my video was useful to you.
@@MyProjectBoxChannelI wonder if it would be of benefit to others if you did a video of installing the R4 from a loop at the switch (neutral at switch) on a 2 or 3 way circuit? i certainly know that i hunted around the internet looking for such a thing!
@@pauladamson9763 good idea 💡 👌
Good video. You covered all bases . In Ireland we use the European way mostly but sometimes N.I . contractors work here so you will find both .
In Poland we have the same system in Homes. Appartments have a newer system "without box" calles who provide LPEN from box to box to box... but this is in new appartments.
Mostly the UK has switched to "two plate" wiring in newer houses, where the live and neutral are taken to the switch and then on to the light. This makes it much easier to upgrade to smart switches or relays of course. However, there are still benefits of the "three plate" system you show here, and it was the norm until perhaps the early 2000s and is still used today in some cases.
You do find the "EU" method of 2/3 way wiring in older houses using twin and earth, but it can lead to an issue with what we call a "borrowed neutral", especially when it's used on stairwells. The live in at the ground switch may be on the downstairs lighting, while the neutral at the landing light is on the upstairs lighting circuit. That makes it hard to isolate individual circuits safely so can be a danger to those who aren't aware of it. It also will cause tripping if the Live and the Neutral are on different RCDs/RCBOs.
I do like having the neutral at the light switch, it just makes sense these days😉. At college, back in 2012, I was still taught the 3-plate method (as a sparky, coming from South Africa to the UK, it was quite alien to me🤣). I remember arguing with my teacher, that we will need to take the neutral to the switch, to make the future-proof, for electronic switches, like PIR motion sensors. I guess 2-plate, 3-way Uk lighting, is still wired the same as in this video. Just with "everything" going to the first switch. I have seen some light switches with a "parking terminal" for the neutral. That saves a connector behind the switch. It's a nice touch.
I have some "experimental" no-neutral circuits, If you are interested ruclips.net/video/oBR5O391m_c/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/9hQFFsBkxaU/видео.html
I have a two way lighting circuit and I'd like to put the zigbee version of this behind one switch. Where should I connect the switched live and the supply live? Thanks
I've just done this using the wifi version as shown in the video here but I think the method I used will work for you (other than there being no neutrals to worry about on your version). What I had to do is look at the two locations were my 2 way light switches are located to work out which end had the switched live wire that runs to the bulb. My switches were wired in that L1 is the Common terminal, L2 has the permanent lives connected (so always on or hot); and L3 was the switched live wire.
One of my two way switches only had 1 wire connected to the L3 terminal, so it is not possible to use this switch -though make a note of the colour of the wire (it was black for me - it may help for the next step). The other light switch had 2 wires connected to the L3 terminal. They were both in a sleeve, one wire was black and the other was brown. So I knew that the brown wire here goes to the bulbs. So I removed the sleeve off the two wires and wired the brown bulb wire to the live out on the Mini R4. The next step is to get a small length of wire that will go from the S2 terminal on the mini R4 to the L3 terminal on the switch which will also have that black wire also connected to it. So it is more or less the same method used in this video. Hope this helps.
This is an excellent explanation on how to wire these, thank you! Is it possible to use this method with a 2 way switch that turns on 2 lights? (2 lights in hallway with a switch downstairs and upstairs)
Yes you can, providing you have the UK wiring method used in this video. You just won't have the middle/ intemperate switch. You will have to connect the MINI-R4 at the first light/ceiling rose, that connects to the switch lines. The first ceiling rose just feeds the next light. It all depends on how your house is wired.
Hi, I'm just wondering... is there any behavioural difference between connecting the switch isolated (using S1 and S2) or having the switch live (using just S2)?
It should work exactly the same. The mini-4 and mini-R4M, have the S1 terminal, internally directly connected/bridged to L-in. That why you don't always need to connect S1. This is different from the mini-R2, that can only have a isolated switch connected to both S1 and S2.
I like this solution with the sonoff minir4 extreme. Do sonoff do a zigbee version that can be implemented in the ceiling rose in the same way?
This is fantastic! I'm looking at getting their Matter device, but I need some information for my situation. I have a kitchen/diner with one bulb in the kitchen area, and another in the dining area. These bulbs are connected to a single fixture that has 2 switches (one for the kitchen area, and one for the dining area). Would I be able to connect a single Sonoff device to the switches, or would I need multiple? Also, would it be best to connect it to the switch device, or the bulbs? Any help and/or information would be appreciated.
The matter version is basically identical. You can mount it were ever you want, but the thing to remember is that it requires a neutral connection to function. So anywhere were you have N L Sw-L available will work. The N connection isn't always available behind a light switch. I have a "virtual-Neutral" circuit that can help people with this problem. ruclips.net/video/mznx0xoF8Ck/видео.html
I assume you are switching both lights from one switch? In that case is possible to use just one sonoff. If you would like to switch them independently you require a dual channel device or two separate devices. You will need to investigate what wiring connections you have available to you, so you can see were it can be installed.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Amazing, thank you so much for the information. I am switching both light switches from one switch, so this is good to know. I have an electrician coming round tomorrow as my wife is worried I could blow up the house 😂 but the information confirms I have made the right choice. Now to buy more of these amazing devices and have my home a Matter smart home!
As the matter version has the same terminals I assume that would be the same wiring?
Yes. I think they are both identical in every way, except for the firmware/software inside might be the only difference, as far as I can tell. Inside the pcb looks identical. It might just be possible that with a firmware upgrade, you could make the mini-R4 matter compatible, in the future.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Thank you I’m looking at buying the matter version for automating my lights via Apple HomeKit.
Thanks! I try Shelly1L but my all home LEDs blinks with OFF state even if I use Shelly Bypass. I buy ZBMINIL2 and WORKS AS CHARM - I BUY 10x of them now :) Thanks for this sonoff with no neutral info! ZBMINIL2 is winner :)
And I use HAssistant + Conbee2 USB controller - no hub from vendor what give me a freedom with zigbee protocol.
No problem 😉. I also have a universal "no-neutral bypass" design, for more options. ruclips.net/video/fT3YztU2MYE/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/8h29-0rpQJo/видео.html
Amazing educational video really helped me alot. Do you have a version with Neutral wires
I have purchased a SONOFF MINIR4 to make an application, with Alexa creating a routine, to my solar energy system. The idea is that it tells me when I have power from the electric company and when I don't...the question is, can I put a 120v cable on the S2 so that it tells me when there is power and when the power went out?...thanks
Yes and No🤣. I need more information to tell you if its possible. Is the minir4 being powered by one supply and trying to detect a different power supply, to see if that different power supply is still on or not?? You can not mix different power supplys. To do it safely you need to somehow isolate the S1 and S2 input from the other power supply, maybe with a relay or optocupler. Could you possibly give me more information.
What a fantastic video: really clear, and I had not thought of getting a bigger ceiling rose cover, but I cannot seem to find one anywhere in the UK; please could you post a link for the one you showed? Also, I am using a different make of WiFi switch, but I suspect very similar internals; the one I am using, however, warns against using a live feed on the S1/S2 contacts, and I was unsure how your circuit worked using the switched live on S2, but maybe that is specific to the Sonoff? I too was going to use the switched live from the switches on, say, S1, but I was going to disconnect the permanent live feed from the switches and use that in S2 thus creating a very low voltage manual switch circuit.
You have to be very careful with some some smart switches. Having a no volt/ isolated input to S1 and S2 in a good idea! (Some are internally referenced to neutral, and some to live!). The mini-4 can work with a switched Live on S2 only, but with the older mini-R2, the S1 and S2 needed to be isolated switch inputs!
I have seen the larger ceiling rose covers in B&Q. It normally comes as a complete pendant with a edison screw bulb holder. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193009114317
www.smart-light.co.uk/product/e27-pendant-holder-orange/
www.buyitbetter.co.uk/products/elektek-pendant-light-ceiling-rose-braided-flex-e27-silicone-lamp-holder?variant=30342332776514
Well, the UK wiring hurts my head when I tried to understand it at the start :D
In Poland it's connected typically as you shown, it looks clean on diagram, but what installers do, they make a box somewhere in wall, when they connect all switches wiring to and the light into.... so physical wiring is a mess to debug.
Great vid. If the MINI-R4 has been switched on with zigbee to turn the light on, can one of the 3-way light switches then switch the light off or does zigbee have to be used to switch the light off again.
Thanks for the really well explained video! Do you know if the Sonoff smart relays can be used to switch further smart devices when this switch is used?
Great video! I have a question thoguh - if it's possible to do a "No neutral" version of the device, why make one that requires neutral at all? Why just not make all of them "no-neutral rquired"? :(
Good question 🤔. The problem is that there is always some compromise with "NO-NEUTRAL" designs(with my design the LED bulb needs to be able to work with DC). You do require the neutral to complete the circuit somehow, so that the smart switch can have a power supply. By not having a neutral at the smart switch, you are trying to steal power from the light bulb, without turning it on. That is why some designs have a bypass at the light bulb, or it needs to be a ultra low power device like a zigbee(not WiFi), so you don't need the bypass. There is no substitute for a real neutral at the smart switch. The next best thing is to put the smart switch directly at the light fixture. I have "designed" a smart bulb that works with a normal light switch
ruclips.net/video/29QgXRgHCx4/видео.html
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Thanks for the reply! That's actually interesting, so basically, the drawback of "no-neutral" designs is that the Live wire going to the bulb is never truly "dead" and there is alway current on the bulb which can cause flickering with some bulbs?
Waiting on your ZBMINI Extreme ZigBee Video. Do you think you can make it work with two way switching?
Same here
One of the best products from Sonoff lately. This is indeed what we needed. And at a very low price also. Only EUR 21,78 incl. VAT
Is there a way to wire it, that the light is always on? So i can trigger the switch in my HA and use my smartbulbs to go on amd off?
Yes I think it's possible. So you want to use the minir4 as a "remote control" for a "always ON" smart bulb?
@@MyProjectBoxChannel yeah, and without flashing the mimir4 if possible. Its because almost everytime someone is comming to eat or sleep overnight, they press every switch and power off my smart bulbs. So that would be nice, id they can hit the button but the power stays on mo matter what, and the HA.
@@beatsizedj yes people turning off smart bulbs, is a pain 😫. I actually came up with a idea for a special smart bulb that works with a light switch, but won't be turned off by the light switch. My attempt was a bit over the top but it does prove that the concept works. Maybe some company will turn my idea into an actual product. ruclips.net/video/29QgXRgHCx4/видео.html
@@MyProjectBoxChannel nice!
But it seems more complicated, than flashing tatsmota on the sonoff. I hoped there is a way to wire it for always on. :(
Denmark,
Changeover switch for third (in line) switch or switches is the norm
The ZigBee question.
I have both and the wireless range is poor on the hub, and have since decided to use the 4 ch pro rf in the tech and run everything back to there with wireless switches in rooms as the wall switches here are ridiculously expensive about £30 for patress and back box equivalent, they are plastic rubbish fiddly and the monopoly of only one supplier is ridiculous, the sinoff rf switches at under £5 each and no cabling is a much simpler cheaper option.
I could use WiFi bulbs but that drives the price back up.
Hi, I have the ZBMINIL2 which I believe is the ZigBee alternative to the R4.
Would the setup for this be identical, just ignoring the neutral? (UK lighting and can't work out my switch lighting as they are two way switches and I didn't quite follow the logic of the diode technique in your other video).
I don't quite understand the need for a neutral and whether that would change anything in the context of these wires, if the R4 is recommended then I will look to buy a few R4s instead (I do not quite understand the exact differences benefits of the neutral Vs no neutral benefits and drawbacks with smart lighting)
As a side note - although I haven't got it working yet - your videos on the ZigBee products in UK circuits have been very informative and helpful, thanks for putting out such detailed content!
Yes you could connect it in the same way as in the video, just without the neutral connected. The ZBMINIL2 is actually more flexible/versatile. There are lots of different ways to connect it up. You could also put it behind a light switch, without the need for a neutral connection.
@@MyProjectBoxChannel I had hoped so - bought a spool of wire from B&Q today so I'm ready to give it a try! Thanks for the reply
@@JackRonan I'm still in the process of making a separate video for the zigbee version 😮💨. I was going to combine the two, but decided to do the zigbee version as a different video.😉
@@MyProjectBoxChannel looking forward to watching it, it would be useful to see it wired both behind a switch and in the ceiling - sadly my plans have not gone successfully. In the ceiling rose I only have a live, neutral and earth wire, I'm guessing the live wire is powered on and off by the light switch which would just turn the sonoff on and off all the time. I will give it a go but not expecting great results. At least I've learned that the wiring in our house is confusing and messy...
@@JackRonan you can message me on Facebook messenger facebook.com/My-Project-Box-105438131355367/ or facebook.com/robert.wynmaalen so you can send some photos if the wiring.
Any ideas for South Africa?
If you use the zigbee version you won't need the neutral connection, behind a "normal" single light switch. 2-way or 3-way switching could be a potential problem in South Africa. You might need to pull a extra wire, to get to both sides of the "switch chain". Or get a extra Live supply wire from somewhere. I have workarounds for this, without pulling new wires, but it's a bit convoluted. ruclips.net/video/9hQFFsBkxaU/видео.html
For just one switch you can "fake" a neutral wire ruclips.net/video/oBR5O391m_c/видео.html
If you have multiple light switchs on one plate. The USA version of the switche in this video could fit in South Africa. ruclips.net/video/8h29-0rpQJo/видео.html
Excellent video explanation thanks - Am I correct in thinking that for South African purposes the live return from the light switch (live) currently going to the globe now would go to S2 which in turn would close the circuit to L out and turn on the light manually via the R4 mini?
How to connect one way
The two lines(L & SL) going down to the switches just connect to one switch only. This is for UK 3-plate method in this video. It might be different wiring systems, depending were you live.
switch live input does not work.
A switch Live input on S2 works on the mini-R2 only! The original sonoff mini requires a "volt-free" input from a switch on both s1 and s2. The older mini is different!!!
Haha, he said doodoo.
Sometimes I make a doodoo💩🤣🤣🤣🤣. Nobody is perfect😉