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How beautiful it is is what you have done. I'm very impressed. Now I'm sitting around wondering what to buy to match the components for my voltages and frequency. If there was a little bit of theory with calculating the size of the components I would be entranced. For example, are the resistors before the optocoupler too large or current is too low for optocoupler diode?

I asume this will work also with a Shelly Plus 1PM? Anyone tried that?

Will it works with shelly 1 mini gen 3?

So much faff

If you change your router like I had to yesterday you may as well take all your ultrabrite smart bulbs and plugs and put them in the bin because no matter what you do they won't reconnect to the new router. 3 of us have spent hours trying to get them to connect with no luck

Neon glow lamps are fantastic. You can build a lighthouse out of one (using the circuit from 2:13). I did that over ten years ago, and to this day it continues to flash continuously on 230 V AC. It is important to install a discharge resistor between the capacitor and the glow lamp, otherwise the discharge will be too violent and the glass will be blackened after a short time (sputtering effect).

Hi Guy, you explained it VERY well and clear. Mary thanks for that Bob from Antwerp in Belgium

I would go with the powerbank myself for the wardrobes but I have something similar on my aquarium cabinets but with a manual switch, it looks like I will be adding some of those micro-switches from the bits box into the circuit now.

I have been enjoying your videos and thought I had a solution for my 3 way light switch setup but I have the European wiring in the UK and so have the switched live at the 3rd switch and live at the 1st with only 2 core between 1st and intermediate switch so can’t feed the live to same switch as switched live. Only other option I considered might work was the magic switch basic r4 at light fixture unfortunately. May have to wait until the magic switch function comes in something smaller.

Nice one mate!👍 Does the Screwdriver Boogie mean that you prefer to do your screwing to music?👹

A huge thanks to you. I have been struggling for a few years to automate a lot of my 'no neutral' house. I had followed some other instructions, but got hopelessly lost as the wiring in the ceiling rose I started first was all backwards (obviously a previous owner had been playing). Your diagrams and crucially the step by step demonstration not only allowed me to figure out that the wiring was all screwed up and fix it, but then allowed me to fit multiple Mini R4s to 1, 2 and 3 way lighting circuits. I now have a house full of smart lighting that can still be used with the original switches. One word of caution for people, you may find that a dimmer switch screws everything up. It took me quite some head scratching and swearing to work that out. Thanks once again.

how nice.. keeping low cost in the real sense

Extremely helpful video. Thank you big time!!!

Just taken a dud one apart by Osram. It has a load of micro chips and capacitors galore, but it only has 1/2 the heat absorbing gum it should have, in my opinion. Not fully tested yet, but led itself has no sign of burn spots. Inspiring film that got me to strip one down 😀👍👍👍 I do muck about a bit & have everything at my disposal Big thanks

Bought the CT15 which has no bluetooth capabilities but I want to retrofit it because why the hell not. This is incredibly useful thank you!

Can you do this the other way around is the real test 😉

I wonder how the shelly bypass allows for an incandescent bulb on the end.

It's not magic, it's just the glitch period!... not rocket science but novel use my good man lol

You can't use this circuit with an incandescent bulb as the light source correct?

Could you do this with multiple tubes?

I want to buy. How, where.

I want to buy

Sonoff and Shelly set the negative GND to L = hot conductor. Between N and Plus of the CPU, 226.7 volts (at 230V) are reduced to get 3.3 volts. This makes it easier to operate the switch at Minus (= L)

Single diode half-wave rectification is very common for "low power" electronic devices! Some cheap LED bulbs only have one diode rectification. Even the Sonoff mini-R4 does not have a full bridge rectifier. Many devices use a diode to reduce the speed or power of a device. A hairdryer uses this technique to reduce the fan speed, and sometimes the heating element is being driven with half sinewave aswell! For small transformers it's a big problem, but not for the big transformer from the electric company. The effects are negotiable. Older triac light dimmers, are much worse for the electric company. They also don't like bad power factor. As long as the current draw is only a few milliamps for LED lighting, it's really not a problem at all 😉👍

There are three types of LED bulb drivers. PWM, resistor and capacitor combination, constant current regulator.. This method probably won't work on PWM and resistor and capacitor combination drives, but it will work on a constant current regulator drive. Economical LED bulbs mostly use constant current regulator drivers. Integrators such as BP5131 can be given as an example. There is not much difference between the working principle of these drivers and a resistor. Both limit the current, but the regulator is more efficient. Connecting a series capacitor to the LED bulb will only further reduce the current and the brightness of the LED bulb will decrease even more. it is safe for leds and driver

Today, the idea of ​​applying a similar method came to my mind, I have never watched this video you posted before, but I used a 10kiloohm resistor instead of a capacitor, I didn't know it was possible while implementing this project, but it worked, bingo👍, so a common conclusion can be reached by thinking logically.

What if I don't have 3 terminals in a switch?

Only use a half wave of the sine for lighting. Your electricity supplier will be annoyed. This gives a direct current component in the domestic power transformer. As a result, it will not only hum loudly, but will also lose performance.

You could remove one yellow-green wire on both sides. Slide a blue tube over it and connect it with N. Connecting both hot cables would not be done in continental Europe. There the cables always branch out without being brought back together at the end. So I would have just used one hot wire and insulated the other hot wire.

Do you know how to make this work with a North-American light switch?

that aint real right?

Can this be powered directly by a 12v battery?.

Since the last comment i made, i did multiple tries and the circuit works. Thanks alot for your videos. However i am stuck with one problem in the next room that shares the same neutral wire connected with the circuit but not the same switch. I had the capacitor, the two diode and resistor circuit connected up with the light with the same exact copy of the circuit as the lastroom that works. As i turn the main power supply back on. The switch lights up and blink for pairing. As the paring and updating firmware completed i turned the light on with ewelink apps. The resistor blew up again. I check and recheck again with new circuit using multimeter there are no short circuit. I did the second tried but the resistor blew up again. I did this with 3 new circuit and ran out of resistor. It all resulting with the resistor blew up. If you have some feedback please let me know what i did wrong. Thank you in advance

Is this works with 240 AC

Good vid but would have been useful to provide the units purchasing info.

I've done something similar to an oil fired boiler, basically I discovered that I did not have thermal cut offs installed so I added sonoff relays & temperature monitoring to install my own

Doesn't work, i tried using 10uf/400v capasitor, 1N4007 diode and 10 OHM(1W) mo carbon film resistor. I switch on the power supply the bulb is blinking. As i tried to switch on and off switchMan m5-1C-86w the resistor blew up and the power automatic tripped

Does this not need to be done by a licensed electrician in the UK?

Its not to protect us from ourselves, its to protect the manufacturer from the uneducated opening products still under warranty, so they don't get inside, damage it & then try a warranty claim when the person may have broken it opening it up.

I just bought the newest one Hp2852E! Having so much trouble. When did these become so difficult. Several hours have gone by and I’m still unable to connect it to my laptop for wireless connection. It’s going back to walmart

Would this work if the light is daisy chained to other light bulbs? Would every bulb need a diode set and capacitor?

I’ve set the basic r4 with a Schneider switch, but I think that the delay is so small that it doesn’t trigger all the time from the switch itself, and so it needs a bigger delay. Do you have any recommendations for that? I’m also planning to add another one for a 3 gang setup but with the same switch so I’m curious if the same would happen. Great video though

I use ethanol and works same as isopropil

I would add a strong caution to not use this on any transformer loads like older 12v down-lights. The transformer will magnetize and overheat. I also think that a fuse lower than 1A should not be optional. The 1N4007 diode is rated at 1A and your circuit breaker normally needs 10A to trip.

Mine doesnt even turn on when i flick the switch :/

switch live input does not work.

Ok

DO not do this ! Electrical Fire.

They are NOT "fittings" they are Fixtures.

Fes r Fing? Fes ✅ Fes (screw cap holder bulb / edison screw base E27 thread fitting / USA n Europe) n Fing (pin cap holder bulb / bayonet base B22 fitting / UK, British colony, Asia)? 00:44