It's not always the destination that is important, sometimes it's just the journey.... Or to put it another way, it's just fun to spend time and energy to do a project like this, even if you don't need to. Well done and please keep the videos like this coming. Take care and stay safe, Joe
Yes, and most of the time a simple capacitor dropper circuit is all that is required. You can also reduce the current to the LEDs to run them slightly cooler😉
amazing video tutorial boss... i have a lot of these lying around. i dont throw them out because i know its just a driver issue thats cheaper to replace or fix. glad this video helps with that.
Yes ideally a 400V rated capacitor would be better, and the dropper cap could be x2 rated😉.( This would mean a much larger capacitor, and there is very little space)I was trying to reuse as much as possible, and salvage bits and pieces. The LEDs are in multiple series strings, several strings in parallel. So if one LED happens to go open circuit, There will be plenty others in parallel for redundancy. You might get the sort of cascade failure though🤔. I have seen many cheap LED lamps use this voltage clamping approach, to use a capacitor with a lower voltage rating.
Afraid I can't agree with your statement that the LEDs are less susceptible to spikes from that capacitive dropper. When LED lamps first came out I experimented with a bunch of driver circuits, in order to add some bright LEDs to my garage door opener. I totally gave up on simple capacitive droppers. They all failed sooner or later by burning out an LED. Easily spotted by the black spot that would appear on the dead LED.
Yes you are right, and maybe I should of clarified what I meant🤔. "Cap droppers" are essentially high-pass filters, So any higher frequency switching noise and garbage, pass straight through. With just a single long series string design, one LED will become the weakest link in the chain, and take the entire light down. What I was trying to say, is that my strip has multiple series strings in parallel. So It can cope a little better with shunting out the current spikes. But you can still get a cascade type failure, because LEDs are quite fragile. It's not a good driver for noisy electrical environments.
Thanks for this, I've replaced some stabilizer caps on flickering tubes before and now I can fix them all! Curious if this circuit is better than the original, and why then don't they use this instead? Pros and cons of this circuit over the original?
@@andredutoit5340 the main advantage of this circuit is its simplicity, and because of that it is very reliable. But it's not perfect! Because it's a capacitive load, it has poor "power factor". You don't get charged for power factor, in domestic use, so not much of a problem. The capacitor dropper is basically a "high pass filter", so if there is "high frequency interference" on the mains supply, it will be dumped straight onto the LEDs and possibly damaged them, or shorten their lifespan. A example of high frequency noise, would be a arcing light switch, not switching off properly.
Thanks for your channel, lots of food for thought. Kinda think you should at least refer to a mains safety video. Folk starting out who watch this may not yet realize how much care is needed when dealing with potentially lethal voltages. Just saying. My first mains shock threw me (age 6) across the room. My heart kept going so I lived to enjoy a great hobby and eventually profession.
You are absolutely correct. I really should've included a "working with mains voltage ⚡️" warning. I have done this in my other videos. I will add it to the description right now😉.
Yes I tried using different values of capacitor until it approximately matched the brightness level of the other lamp. The LED current is a bit lower than the original, so it will be better for the lifespan of the LEDs.
i always cut the led strip into 12v section and power it with constant current step down converter, the driver in t8 tube is tiny and always fail(because leds have enough cooling to not fail unlike led bulb)
@@AmperekaeferDie Eingangsspannung fällt am 1UF-Kondensator ab, da die Last an den Brückengleichrichter angeschlossen ist. Die LEDs halten eine Spannung von 60 V. Ich weiß nicht, ob ich richtig übersetze😂😂😂
I know the old fashioned florescent tubes produced a lot of UV light, and it made everything plastic, brittle inside the light fixture. But I don't think LEDs produce true UV light. It might be "near UV" ,purple blue light. It's still very reactive, and perfect for stimulating the yellow phosphor, to make white light.
Very nice as you say less waste in the bin but of course the Chinese just want you to replace with a new one, it seems the latest trend from China is the all-in-one light none reparable so you have to bin it, so bad for our environment but good for china, nice to see you cheated China! 5 star
![Lil Uzi Vert - Chill Bae [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/D7F42F_JM3U/mqdefault.jpg)
It's not always the destination that is important, sometimes it's just the journey.... Or to put it another way, it's just fun to spend time and energy to do a project like this, even if you don't need to.
Well done and please keep the videos like this coming.
Take care and stay safe,
Joe
I completely agree with you😉 thank you👍
You could wrap the broken length with painters tape to hold it till you open it.
I think it's a good idea to repair led lights because I find it's the drive that goes out in most of them.
Yes, and most of the time a simple capacitor dropper circuit is all that is required. You can also reduce the current to the LEDs to run them slightly cooler😉
This is a very good video and very useful
I love the clay blob idea. I’ve not seen that before. Will be buying clay. :)
It's called BLU TACK and it has many different names in different countries. It can be white or blue.
en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blu_Tack
@@MyProjectBoxChannel Prestik 😜
amazing video tutorial boss... i have a lot of these lying around. i dont throw them out because i know its just a driver issue thats cheaper to replace or fix. glad this video helps with that.
I would recommend replacing the 100V smoothing capacitor with a 400V one so that it does not explode if your LED strip goes open circuit.
Yes ideally a 400V rated capacitor would be better, and the dropper cap could be x2 rated😉.( This would mean a much larger capacitor, and there is very little space)I was trying to reuse as much as possible, and salvage bits and pieces. The LEDs are in multiple series strings, several strings in parallel. So if one LED happens to go open circuit, There will be plenty others in parallel for redundancy. You might get the sort of cascade failure though🤔. I have seen many cheap LED lamps use this voltage clamping approach, to use a capacitor with a lower voltage rating.
Some times you don't have enough room to place the components.
Thank you very much for the life hack.
love that capacitor explosion at 4:57 💥💥💥
Afraid I can't agree with your statement that the LEDs are less susceptible to spikes from that capacitive dropper. When LED lamps first came out I experimented with a bunch of driver circuits, in order to add some bright LEDs to my garage door opener. I totally gave up on simple capacitive droppers. They all failed sooner or later by burning out an LED. Easily spotted by the black spot that would appear on the dead LED.
Yes you are right, and maybe I should of clarified what I meant🤔. "Cap droppers" are essentially high-pass filters, So any higher frequency switching noise and garbage, pass straight through. With just a single long series string design, one LED will become the weakest link in the chain, and take the entire light down. What I was trying to say, is that my strip has multiple series strings in parallel. So It can cope a little better with shunting out the current spikes. But you can still get a cascade type failure, because LEDs are quite fragile. It's not a good driver for noisy electrical environments.
Thanks for this, I've replaced some stabilizer caps on flickering tubes before and now I can fix them all! Curious if this circuit is better than the original, and why then don't they use this instead? Pros and cons of this circuit over the original?
@@andredutoit5340 the main advantage of this circuit is its simplicity, and because of that it is very reliable. But it's not perfect! Because it's a capacitive load, it has poor "power factor". You don't get charged for power factor, in domestic use, so not much of a problem. The capacitor dropper is basically a "high pass filter", so if there is "high frequency interference" on the mains supply, it will be dumped straight onto the LEDs and possibly damaged them, or shorten their lifespan. A example of high frequency noise, would be a arcing light switch, not switching off properly.
Thanks for your channel, lots of food for thought.
Kinda think you should at least refer to a mains safety video.
Folk starting out who watch this may not yet realize how much care is needed when dealing with potentially lethal voltages.
Just saying.
My first mains shock threw me (age 6) across the room. My heart kept going so I lived to enjoy a great hobby and eventually profession.
You are absolutely correct. I really should've included a "working with mains voltage ⚡️" warning. I have done this in my other videos. I will add it to the description right now😉.
I guess the value of 1uF dropper capacitor was not arbitrary.
Yes I tried using different values of capacitor until it approximately matched the brightness level of the other lamp. The LED current is a bit lower than the original, so it will be better for the lifespan of the LEDs.
i always cut the led strip into 12v section and power it with constant current step down converter, the driver in t8 tube is tiny and always fail(because leds have enough cooling to not fail unlike led bulb)
Danke für das Video.
Wie hoch ist die Spannung für den LED-Stripe? 325VDC? LG
60Vdc +
Wie kommt diese Spannung zustande?@@MyProjectBoxChannel
@@AmperekaeferDie Eingangsspannung fällt am 1UF-Kondensator ab, da die Last an den Brückengleichrichter angeschlossen ist.
Die LEDs halten eine Spannung von 60 V.
Ich weiß nicht, ob ich richtig übersetze😂😂😂
OK, kapazitiver resistance, thanks. LG@@MyProjectBoxChannel
@@AmperekaeferJa, es heißt Impedanz für Wechselstromwiderstand. für Dinge wie Kondensator und Induktor
The reason it's so fragile is due to the large amount of UV radiation that the LED's produce.
I know the old fashioned florescent tubes produced a lot of UV light, and it made everything plastic, brittle inside the light fixture. But I don't think LEDs produce true UV light. It might be "near UV" ,purple blue light. It's still very reactive, and perfect for stimulating the yellow phosphor, to make white light.
Very nice as you say less waste in the bin but of course the Chinese just want you to replace with a new one, it seems the latest trend from China is the all-in-one light none reparable so you have to bin it, so bad for our environment but good for china, nice to see you cheated China! 5 star
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replace the LED with AC LED maybe
poor explanations