Tips and Tricks: Wet Sanding and Machine Polishing 2K Clear
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Welcome to JHart Modelworks in this video I'm going to quickly go over how I get through wet sanding the body and then using a rotary tool to polish it back up.
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Music in this episode:
Finland by Tracktribe
From the RUclips music library.
One of the BEST how-to videos you've made Jus!!!!!!! This will help me a ton because I still have issues with my clear.....I think I'm afraid of flooding the car body & I am going 2 follow this later on my Nova brother.......VERY HELPFUL!!!!!!! Speak 2 U later on!!!!!!!! BTW.....keep your eyes peeled 4 the new shop card!!!!!!!!
Glad it was helpful brother. Keeping my eyes peeled.
Thank you, very informative video, I like the term " dust nibs"
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed :) Hope it was helpful.
Excellent tutorial Justin, really enjoyed that and a lot of great tips. 👍
Thanks Philip, hope it was helpful
Great Video Justin!!!! I added it to my playlist. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Mike! Have a great weekend!
Great tutorial and fantastic work and shine on that Justin!
Thanks Joe!
Great tips and tricks on sanding, have a great weekend my friend
Thanks Duke. Have a great weekend
@@JHartModelworks thank you
Great vid Justin!! 👍🙂
Thanks Tim! 👍
Thats a great finish you achieve, nice tips thanks.
Thanks Jason! Have a great weekend
Great video. Looks great
Thanks Larry!
Nice video. Very similar to my process. But I use a low speed rotary tool. Thanks for sharing
Glad you enjoyed it. I'm looking for a slower rotary tool, but the Dremel at 5000rpm (lowest setting) works for me with a bit of care.
@@JHartModelworks I have a few videos where I show my polishing method and the tool I use. Check them out might be something you might like
Great detailed tips on polishing with a rotary tool. I'm afraid to use one personally, as I believe most of them are too fast. I know 5000 is a bit fast for lacquer, but maybe ok for 2k.
Oh yeah, I hand polish when I use a lacquer clear like LP9 or TS13. A rotary will eat that in seconds.
Great video! If I ever do a paint job worth polishing I'll have to try this method. I just subbed you & thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching, thanks for subbing! And hopefully it comes in handy! Have a great day!
@@JHartModelworks Check out my models on my channel & you'll see what I mean.😁 You have a great day too!
Great stuff mate thanks
Thanks Mike!
Thank you sharing
Thanks for watching Smauel!
Howdy j hart its keith awsome job on paint i just started watchin so iv made my last cup tea for the night.. Are you sanding b4 clear or on clear justin... OH SO ITS CLEARED ALREADY GOOD I WAS WONDERING, 👍
yes this is all on 2K clear. For the most part I don't sand on primers or color coats.
You bring up a great point about the contents of polishes. I'm not sure if using a polish anywhere except on the finished, final paint is going to really matter for the flatness of the surface since the wet sanding will do more than enough for what we are achieving, right? I could be wrong though. I personally never used a polish except after a final wet sand of the last coat. A polish and wax session.
For the most part I only sand and polish after clear, the exception was the Chevelle build. I was trying to do a candy clear over chrome.(Didn't exactly work how I wanted as the gravity chrome wasn't reflective enough) but the gloss black had a lot of sputter and dust in it, I wanted it perfectly smooth and high gloss before I put down the chrome layer. It was necessary to wet sand and polish the gloss black.
@@JHartModelworks. Awesome.
I used to spend 2 days flatting and polishing a 2k body. I've gone back to laquer, much quicker drying therefore less chance of rubbish settling in the finish and flatting and polishing is so much quicker and can give an equally good shine. Yes 2k dries harder and is great on a flat surface but for me it softens detail way too much.
I live in Texas and dust is always the enemy. Yes it gets in the 2K jobs and I have to flat and polish them, but it also settles on lacquer clears. And because they are so soft, the dust actually buries itself in the clear and ruins the finish to the point that there's no way to get a gloss shine again other than to sand an polish and there's only so many times you can do that before you are through the clear even with hand polishing. My 2K cars, the same dust wipes off with a little water and a soft cloth. Sometimes like on the 240 I just want that very best shine, others like the 40 ford, I'd rather have done a lacquer clear, but I don't want to lose the paint finish over time.
Justin I appreciate what you are saying about Texas but in my opinion a fully dried and waxed laquer finish is certainly going to stand up to any amount of cleaning of a finished model. I think thinners with retarder, especially Mr H do detract from the hardness of a finish but can still be flatted and polished after say 4 days but I would leave waxing as long as practically possible. Anyway for those using 2k your video was very informative, just brought back bad memories for me!
@Worden B My first 2 years worth of models were cleared in rattle can TS-13. Polished and waxed at the end of the build, and today they are completely dull and rough as sand paper. the dust has settled into the finish and can't be removed by just washing. it would take sanding and maybe even a clay bar to remove it and by the time it's done I'd have eaten through the paint probably. then again I also don't clean my models and re-wax the regularly. I simply don't have the time. I agree a fully cured lacquer finish would stand the test of time if it were properly maintained, washed and waxed regularly etc. But in my case where the dust can sometimes set for a year or more, it just doesn't work. I acknowledge this is completely negligence on my part. But it's just life. There aren't enough hours in a week.
I have recently invested in clear cases for all my models because I simply lack the time to properly care for them. $10 or less a model is a small price to pay to prevent the damage I've allowed in the past.
But yes this was definitely instructions for 2K I'd never use a machine to polish a lacquer finish. It's just too abrasive for lacquer. Have a great weekend.
Thank you for your reply Justin, I'm sorry to hear you encounter such harsh conditions. I'm surprised though that you haven't machine polished laquer, I do on flat areas with similar results to that you would expect from 2k. Anyway, I'm pleased that you have found a source for clear cases to protect all the hard work that you put into creating your models, they are worth preserving. Take care man.
@@wordenb1830 Have a great weekend!
Where did you get the polishing pads for the dremell
Amazon, My wife is threatening to cut me off lol. If you search 1" foam polishing pad you'll eventually find them like 150 for $25. www.amazon.com/SHINA-150pcs-Inch-Polishing-Polisher/dp/B01HT1QC2C/ref=sr_1_61?crid=3ED6M6WX9GP37&keywords=1%22+foam+polishing&qid=1652587001&sprefix=1+foam+p%2Caps%2C73&sr=8-61
The problem is they come with a shank for a drill or a full on automotive polishing tool, rather than the 1/8 inch Dremel bit. for that I bought this: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0721RS42N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can the Tamiya polishing cloths be washed for reuse
I believe you can wash them, I will be testing very soon as these have had a lot of use.
What about the elephant in the room, the two white spots on the roof?
I only see one, but you are absolutely right, it's definitely in there. It is something buried deep under the clear. I'm not certain what it is. I have sanded and polished twice and can't get it out. It seems like it might be under the bottom layer of clear and to get at it I'll risk excessive damage to the paint. None of my models are perfect, Some minor flaws I just have to accept. I'm not a competition modeler. Just another guy sharing his hobby, and what he's learned, to pass on to others, what others have shared with me.
And honestly I'm not looking to strip and respray over a tiny speck. In my humble experience, when you strip a body it never comes fully clean and there's the risk the next paint job may have more issues than just a tiny spec. For something major like crazing the paint job or fisheyes, yeah absolutely, but something tiny like a speck, It's more effort and more risk than reward. Thanks for watching and for the feedback.
@@JHartModelworks I'm not trying to be obnoxious, you seem to do great work and I was wondering how you were going to fix them, check 25:34 to see both spots. Best to you.
Great catch on that, I didn't even see that while editing the video. The one closer to the front of the car is definitely there and is buried deep in the clear. The one further back, closer to the card was surface dust. May have even been just a speck of dry polish or wax. It's not on the car now. Probably got brushed off.
As to fixing the deep speck. I cheated. Shhh don't tell anyone. I used an orange super fine tip permanent marker and taped it over the orange speck. Then I rubbed it off. then I taped it again and rubbed it off again. I did that over and over until there was an orange stain on the clear right over the spec, but it was rubbed off enough so the surface is still very reflective. You can still catch it if you look from the right angle and you are really looking for it. Like a show judge might find it. I don't know, I'm going to my first show next weekend. Otherwise the eye and brain just fill it in. Sometimes it works, some times it doesn't. This time I think I lucked out. I'll try to remember to point it out in the next update video.
What size are the polishing sponges
1 inch
these are the ones I bought but the ends don't fit the dremmel. you's want to look for the 1/8" velcro mount.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXLNYTR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks for your help.
12:08 What's the f*** 🤣🤣🤣
That was a nightmare. I didn't know about silicone at the time and was repairing my air compressor. I used a silicone sealant when putting the head off the compressor back together. So I'm spraying the 928, the compressor gets hot, the silicone atomized into the air hit the body while the color was going down. Looked perfectly fine, then i sprayed the clear and it all went to hell. I ended up stripping the body, replacing the compressor hose and airbrush because i just couldn't get all the silicone out of everything. And starting completely over. Very expensive lessons were learned.