Honestly with Tamiya sprays for both color and clear I don't mist coat. If I mist coat Tamiya I end up with bad orange peel. The trick is to spray right to the point that it shifts from looking dry or misted to looking like a flat glass smooth wet coat and STOP right there. Let it set 15 to 20 minutes between coats, after the color is on let it sit at least 2 hours before you clear, I often let it sit overnight. After you clear don't touch it for at least 3 days unless you want finger prints in it because it will be quite soft. But, at the same time I end up with glass smooth clear. I usually don't even bother with sanding I go right to rubbing/polish/wax. On my Tamiya Mazda MX-5 ND I didn't even use the compounds on it as it was glass smooth and I could see my reflection in it. I let it sit a week and then went straight to wax. Tamiya is the only sprays I can work with like this. And using Tamiya I can now do it consistently.
i agree. misting 10 coats of tamiya is absolutely the worst you can do. i aim for 2-3 coats of 50%+ coverage each from primer to color, sand down as needed and then clear. clear over decals will require misting but you will have to eventually go pretty heavy with at least 2 full wet coats.
You may have just sold me on tamiya paint I was going to try them regardless on my next. I can get a good finish with others. I'm going to try tamiya and to polish and wax for the first time.
Amen Justin. I just did that today and had the same thought...just go right to cream polishing steps. It's so cool how the Tamiya suddenly goes smooth.
I couldn’t agree more. This guy loves to do multiple mist coats then says “with Tamiya it’s impossible to get a glossy finish”. I have no problem getting a glossy coat. I mist coat and 1 minute later give it a wet coat. Give it 5 minutes to rest then wet coat again, and then a third wet coat.
I'm an old guy, but still open to learning. I came to this video to see if I could pick up some new ideas, and was surprised at how much you do things nearly exactly to the way that I do them, right down to the same polishing/waxing materials.
Guys, just wanna tell you my experience. This is my first time I paint any scale model. I painted 3 coats of clear and turns out it seems to be still flat and dull Then I keep adding more Finally, total of 6 coats of clear and it turns out really good So, dont be afraid that you have to add more and more layers Just keep on adding it, but bear in mind that MIST COST, dont be too close too,
Thanks for the great video! I wasn't crazy about the color scheme at first. But, WOW what a fantastic job! I'm just getting into modeling and these videos are really helpful. Nice little paint shop you got there too!
I love model cars I just don't build very many for this reason. AFV don't need all that polishing. (Most) airplanes don't need polishing. And I've never glossed a ship model ever and they all turn out great. Still, you do great work. And some great tips in there as well. Thank you.
Hi all - I did not get a chance to read all comments but just wanted to add one thing I do is warm up the can in warm water, the paints flows more better also tip can upside down and spray to clear the nozzel after you apply the paint.
I used to use rattle cans all the time years before I started using automotive paint. The tamiya gloss is one of the best I think and is very forgiving. My process is a couple mist coats a medium coat and then a wet coat. You can get pretty wet before it runs, once you do a mistake or two you will gauge how far you can go. Then you dont really have to worry about wet sanding and just polish. :)
Popo popopopo This is the tricky part. Tamiya Gloss cures at a different rate to the colours, It's best to paint it straight after the colour coat. Or to wait until the colour has cured completley or it can crack depending on weather. If I didn't spray it straight after I waited a week or more.
thank you very much !!!! I am tempted to use 2k clear on tamiya ts ... but Tom also made a video with a mx-5 and tamiya ts-13 and it seems to work ... i don't want to ruin a c1models RWB kit :)
Popo popopopo There shouldn't be a problem with 2k clear over Tamiya TS paints. The TS are Lacquer paints. If you want to put 2k clear over tamiya clear I would make sure it's fully gassed out. Don't worry about ruining your models with paint you can always strip paint and start over. :)
i praise you alot for your videos. i even subscribed. i currently already built 3 cars and my 4th one is currently in bad shape since i painted it and already coated it ahead before knowing that i should still put a clear coat. thank you alot for these videos you make it helps me alot with my questions. and i hope one day i could be also as good as you.
Wow you do really great work. Far too much work for my taste in model building but great results!!! I usually buff the 3rd coat of clear and call it done ;)
I really like Tamiya's spray paints overall but I think Tamiya's TS-13 Clear is better for topcoating over tinted windows since the intensity of the shine is higher than other brands. I personally like using Mr Hobby Premium Topcoat Gloss for a lighter shine and Mr Hobby Super Clear Gloss for a deeper shine, since they have a shine to it but it's not as much as TS-13 and is a bit easier to use. One thing to note is Mr Hobby paints tend to spray a bit wider for the area compared with Tamiya.
Thanks for a well produced video. It is clear, the sound is good, the steps are explained fully. We must remember to not rush the process and you've confirmed that. Also, can you tell whose music you have for the background? Interesting sound.
Hello I´m painting my auto with Revell spray can but after 3 layers of Color I got an irregular light granulated Surface. What do you suggest? sanding it before applying the clear or applying the clear directly and sanding it after clear coats? Best Regards!
Pretty brave to flat and polish 3 coats of single pack. I always calculated that one coat of two pack was equal to five coats of single pack and l would never risk flatting one coat of two pack so pretty brave stuff risking rubbing through! Mind you l was painting full scale cars!!
I have to disagree about tamiya spray can. I use them and get an absolute perfect finish. When people ask they can't believe I use a can. Misting the paint on like you done in the video will definitely give you a bad finish. First coat I mist on but still keep it even. Second coat I lay down quite wet then the third heavier again. I do that for primer and colour.
Also put the can under warm water for a few minutes before spraying. Helps the paint or clear level out while drying. Cold or even just room temp paint can spray out uneven or blotchy. Also model master gloss clear sprays nicer than tamiya imo
Hello there !! Thanks for all those video you post! I am willing to go into model cars, but I am completly greeny so I did not even know that a model as this, could receive more than 2 or evn 3 coats of paint...
I love your job. Assemble a Sauber C9 tamiya and when I apply polish to the carroceria I have a matte effect. I will try to fix it. thanks for your videos
I am building a model of a 1984 Coupe Deville. I have finished the paint job, but I want to paint a few small details on the body. Should I paint those details before I apply the clear coat, or after I apply the clear coat. The spray painting was done with lacquer spray paint, but the detailing is done with enamel paints.
Also use isopropyl alcohol to remove the polish completely before waxing. And honestly using something like hydrosilex instead of wax is probably better for the scale and longer lasting more protective coating.
Hi man 👍 I've watch this series of video's that you have very kindly shared (thank you for that👍) I just have 1 question........ in this video you say 5 days for the clear coat to harden, but even after 5 days it still won't be properly cured, would you be able to let me know how long until it's properly cured? As after watching these video's I feel confident to start my AE86 in the classic panda colour way I just feel I may be a little heavy handed for that final rub down with the 1200 grit before the final polish These videos you do and the paint jobs you create are fantastic👍I must say I'm a true fan of your channel👍
Great video series! Quick question - in case you were to apply decals to the body of the vehicle would you recommend doing so prior to or after applying the clearcoat? Cheers
While spraying my 1k clear i ran out, it was the next day before i could get more so i decided to let it fully cure. Should i wet sand my clear coat and then clear again, Wet sand and apply a light base and then clear and just clear straight over the cured clear coat? Thanks love the channel
I am building a car that is molded in red plastic. I used rattle cans to lay down 2 coats of gray primer followed by 3 coats of the final color, gloss white. My car looks pink! I'm sure I will have to strip the paint and start over, but what would you advise to prevent this from happening?
I have a question. What if you are making a 60's or earlier car with a lot of chrome trim. Would you paint the trim before the clear coat? Also what if you are using Bare Metal chrome trim?
I made the mistake of spraying in my shop thinking it wouldn't get everywhere. Well I was wrong. What paint booth do you recommend using paint can projects?
I like to build race cars and they have many decals. I usually seal them under a clear coat, but not only would I be afraid to sand through the paint but to sand through the decals. Any advice?
Hey quick question, I always polish with the Tamia compounds, and what I do is after I apply the clear I sand with 1500 grit, 6000 grit and 8000 grit, and whenever I use the compounds I get streaks no matter what, they resemble scratches on a disc, they’re extremely fine and I was wondering if there is something I should be doing differently or if I am way to meticulous, thanks man!
The jump from 1500 to 6000 is to big. 1500 is also very coarse. So try starting at 3600 then 4200, 5000 etc. Use smaller steps and make sure to remove all the scratches from the previous step. Also be sure to use a super soft non scratching cloth. Lets say. You paper towel, it will scratch
This is excellent, thank you. I want to use this method, but my kit has a few large water decals that need to go on. At what point would you apply those here? There's one on the roof, the rear and the hood.
That makes perfect sense, thank you! Your channel is extremely helpful. Everything is stunningly simple, but your technique and experience make seem like magic.
Thank you for this well made tutorial. I am currently working on die-cast models in scale 1:18. Is there anything you would recommend to do differently than in this video, when painting a diecast model? For example I wonder if the diecast needs to be sanded before applying the filler, if I sand the filler (same as prime coat?) anyway... Does anyone have experience with this?
Im new to the hobby. I was wondering if I have to sand down the clearcoat. I am not going for a realistic look. I just want the model to look good on my shelf. I am probably not going to pay too much attention to the orange peel. Most of my pre-built models have a little bit of orange peel. Thank you.
I have a question. I started the hobby again after about 25 years and started my first kit. Got the primer down pretty smooth, but not really happy with the paint, some orange peel. How can I fix the orange before I spray with clear? Can it be sanded and polished out? Suggestions? Thanks.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thanks. Your channel has helped me so much. Do you sand, polish and wax other body color parts such as side mirrors, hood scoops and spoilers too?
Good day, if im going to use tamiya clear coat just what you did on this video when is the best time to apply the tamiya accent line before or after the clear coat? Thank you
Hi, just wondering if you could help me. Can I sand my model car after spraying a flat clear coat because it's not very smooth after I sprayed the TS80. If so, what sand paper should I use? And should sand it dry or wet?
question: I plan to use your method of painting on a future gundam build. I do want it shiny but do you think a three layer clear coat is necessary or can will i get by with just go with one to two?
Really cool and helpful video mate! I was really impressed by the result .... I have a Supra with 1K Clear too and I really want to try this out too! Sadly all the stickers are already on the car... can I remove them somehow or would they be sanded down too? (I have another decal sheet of the same car... )
I bought a Rustoleom Black Gloss paint and primer and a Rustoleoum clear coat. I got terrible results. Is it because of the company or is it because I suck at this? I sanded it down with 400 grit before doing anything also. If I bought Tamiya Black gloss, primer and clear coat, do you think I could get better results?
I don’t know much about weathering. But i thing its better to clearcoat it first. So you can remove waathering easier. Look up: lasercreation world, Plasmo and Luke Towan. They are good at weathering
Hey great video I just have a quick question, after removing the orange peel and polishing the car I can get a pretty reflective surface however there seems to be small scratches that I can't seem to get rid of, do you have any advice for this?
Why do u have to let the car dry for 5 days? I let each of my coats dry for more than an hour then let the hole thing dry over night is that, going to get a good paint job as the finish?
The Scalemodeling Channel awesome, so then I'll have to test run the coat on something. I appreciate your help, amazing job on this and that R-34 you did
William Aviles no man, that would be like saying a cheeseburger from mcdonalds is the same as one from burger king. Same name different product. Different finish and quality
Question: I'm working on my first model ever (your vids inspired me to give it a go :P) and I tried to remember your note at 4:30 about not polishing off the thin corners.... annnd i've rushed myself and done just that. I think only the colour layer has started to come off along - stopped as soon as I saw. I plan on masking and respraying the affected panel/panels but just wondering if you have any tips/advice on doing so? Should I sand back some of the clear on the rest of the panel with a lower grit then color + clear over the top of the whole thing or just try and focus my sprays on the one area? I'm using tamiya cans only at this point Thanks and keep up the great content :)
Thomas Ling i think it would be best to not fix it. Spray cans are pretty aggresive and can leave a very thick edge on the masked area. If you do want to give it a go. Sand the entire panel you want to repaint with 1200 grit sandpaper
Hi I'm completely new to scale modeling. Just want to ask if u clear then decal then clear, at which stage does sanding and polishing happen? I would imaging sanding after decal would destroy the decal....
If you have the time and patience, clear decal clear. If you dont have the patience just decal then clear. You polish after you apply clearcoat and gave the clear a week to dry. Sanding after decals would indeed destroy them :P just like sanding after paint will destroy the paind. Only polish the clear!
thank you for the info.! still a bit confused...So if i have a big chunk of decal that got clear coated, and have orange peel on it, i should just sand around the decal( parts where there is no decal) and avoid the decal(not to destroy it)?
If the decal is clear you can sand it, as you are sanding the clear on top of the decal, not the decal itself, if it is not clear you can not sand the decal.
This is the video that changed my life!
Honestly with Tamiya sprays for both color and clear I don't mist coat. If I mist coat Tamiya I end up with bad orange peel.
The trick is to spray right to the point that it shifts from looking dry or misted to looking like a flat glass smooth wet coat and STOP right there. Let it set 15 to 20 minutes between coats, after the color is on let it sit at least 2 hours before you clear, I often let it sit overnight.
After you clear don't touch it for at least 3 days unless you want finger prints in it because it will be quite soft. But, at the same time I end up with glass smooth clear. I usually don't even bother with sanding I go right to rubbing/polish/wax.
On my Tamiya Mazda MX-5 ND I didn't even use the compounds on it as it was glass smooth and I could see my reflection in it. I let it sit a week and then went straight to wax.
Tamiya is the only sprays I can work with like this. And using Tamiya I can now do it consistently.
i agree. misting 10 coats of tamiya is absolutely the worst you can do. i aim for 2-3 coats of 50%+ coverage each from primer to color, sand down as needed and then clear. clear over decals will require misting but you will have to eventually go pretty heavy with at least 2 full wet coats.
You may have just sold me on tamiya paint I was going to try them regardless on my next. I can get a good finish with others. I'm going to try tamiya and to polish and wax for the first time.
Amen Justin. I just did that today and had the same thought...just go right to cream polishing steps. It's so cool how the Tamiya suddenly goes smooth.
I've had such a tough time with spray can clear coat and this video has really helped a lot, thanks so much for sharing! Great build!
I couldn’t agree more. This guy loves to do multiple mist coats then says “with Tamiya it’s impossible to get a glossy finish”. I have no problem getting a glossy coat. I mist coat and 1 minute later give it a wet coat. Give it 5 minutes to rest then wet coat again, and then a third wet coat.
I'm an old guy, but still open to learning. I came to this video to see if I could pick up some new ideas, and was surprised at how much you do things nearly exactly to the way that I do them, right down to the same polishing/waxing materials.
What a great turtorial followed all your steps and i can believe how good the paint job is i used spray cans as well, thanks for sharing your wisdom 😊
Guys, just wanna tell you my experience.
This is my first time I paint any scale model.
I painted 3 coats of clear and turns out it seems to be still flat and dull
Then I keep adding more
Finally, total of 6 coats of clear and it turns out really good
So, dont be afraid that you have to add more and more layers
Just keep on adding it, but bear in mind that MIST COST, dont be too close too,
Thanks for the great video! I wasn't crazy about the color scheme at first. But, WOW what a fantastic job! I'm just getting into modeling and these videos are really helpful.
Nice little paint shop you got there too!
request: I am wondering if you can show us you collection of built models. please
He should do this, it would make a good video
+DansanTutorials look on fb.
thank you so much for these videos!! I am getting pretty close to what I want with a white coat thanks to you!
I remember long ago compounding my models with Crest toothpaste.
Did it work
@@rayyannoushad
I had the shiniest orange peel paint jobs.
I love model cars I just don't build very many for this reason. AFV don't need all that polishing. (Most) airplanes don't need polishing. And I've never glossed a ship model ever and they all turn out great. Still, you do great work. And some great tips in there as well. Thank you.
Hi all - I did not get a chance to read all comments but just wanted to add one thing I do is warm up the can in warm water,
the paints flows more better also tip can upside down and spray to clear the nozzel after you apply the paint.
Hi Tom,
Nissan is looking very nice thus far. I can't wait to see the finished build.
happy Modelling,
Les
Looking great! I went through the same process on my 300ZX. A lot of work but certainly worth it.
I used to use rattle cans all the time years before I started using automotive paint. The tamiya gloss is one of the best I think and is very forgiving. My process is a couple mist coats a medium coat and then a wet coat. You can get pretty wet before it runs, once you do a mistake or two you will gauge how far you can go. Then you dont really have to worry about wet sanding and just polish. :)
+xrlent12 how much time did you leave between the color and the clear coat ?
Popo popopopo This is the tricky part. Tamiya Gloss cures at a different rate to the colours, It's best to paint it straight after the colour coat. Or to wait until the colour has cured completley or it can crack depending on weather. If I didn't spray it straight after I waited a week or more.
thank you very much !!!! I am tempted to use 2k clear on tamiya ts ... but Tom also made a video with a mx-5 and tamiya ts-13 and it seems to work ... i don't want to ruin a c1models RWB kit :)
Popo popopopo There shouldn't be a problem with 2k clear over Tamiya TS paints. The TS are Lacquer paints. If you want to put 2k clear over tamiya clear I would make sure it's fully gassed out. Don't worry about ruining your models with paint you can always strip paint and start over. :)
+xrlent12 Thank you very much. I am gonna try my best :) Best regards
thank you for uploading this. i am currently building a RX7 FC cabriolet and i needed help on this step. thank you so so so much!
It dawned on me at 11 minutes in that he was playing the wallflowers. Nice.
i praise you alot for your videos. i even subscribed. i currently already built 3 cars and my 4th one is currently in bad shape since i painted it and already coated it ahead before knowing that i should still put a clear coat. thank you alot for these videos you make it helps me alot with my questions. and i hope one day i could be also as good as you.
Wow you do really great work. Far too much work for my taste in model building but great results!!! I usually buff the 3rd coat of clear and call it done ;)
I really like Tamiya's spray paints overall but I think Tamiya's TS-13 Clear is better for topcoating over tinted windows since the intensity of the shine is higher than other brands. I personally like using Mr Hobby Premium Topcoat Gloss for a lighter shine and Mr Hobby Super Clear Gloss for a deeper shine, since they have a shine to it but it's not as much as TS-13 and is a bit easier to use. One thing to note is Mr Hobby paints tend to spray a bit wider for the area compared with Tamiya.
Put a drop of washing detergent in the water it helps.
baby shampoo
Thanks for a well produced video. It is clear, the sound is good, the steps are explained fully. We must remember to not rush
the process and you've confirmed that. Also, can you tell whose music you have for the background? Interesting sound.
Mitch Gawlik youtube audiolibrary ;)
Hello I´m painting my auto with Revell spray can but after 3 layers of Color I got an irregular light granulated Surface. What do you suggest? sanding it before applying the clear or applying the clear directly and sanding it after clear coats? Best Regards!
Heat spray can in a little hot water before painting which gives a little more pressure 👍
Pretty brave to flat and polish 3 coats of single pack. I always calculated that one coat of two pack was equal to five coats of single pack and l would never risk flatting one coat of two pack so pretty brave stuff risking rubbing through! Mind you l was painting full scale cars!!
I have to disagree about tamiya spray can. I use them and get an absolute perfect finish. When people ask they can't believe I use a can. Misting the paint on like you done in the video will definitely give you a bad finish. First coat I mist on but still keep it even. Second coat I lay down quite wet then the third heavier again. I do that for primer and colour.
Yep. This is the correct method.
Also put the can under warm water for a few minutes before spraying. Helps the paint or clear level out while drying. Cold or even just room temp paint can spray out uneven or blotchy.
Also model master gloss clear sprays nicer than tamiya imo
How long between coats?
Thought the music around 7:42 onwards was familiar. It's definitely 6th Avenue Heartache by the Wallflowers. I miss the '90s.
Hello there !! Thanks for all those video you post! I am willing to go into model cars, but I am completly greeny so I did not even know that a model as this, could receive more than 2 or evn 3 coats of paint...
Warm that can and use more than three coats you can get a glass shine on there
I use automotive spray can clear but Tamiya makes some very fine paints and primers
I love your job. Assemble a Sauber C9 tamiya and when I apply polish to the carroceria I have a matte effect. I will try to fix it. thanks for your videos
Someone should make a 1/48 scale buffer.. would really add to the realism
It's called a dremel ;-)
Try turning the can upside down and clearing the spray nozzle every once in awhile and you won't get so much orange peel
I am building a model of a 1984 Coupe Deville. I have finished the paint job, but I want to paint a few small details on the body. Should I paint those details before I apply the clear coat, or after I apply the clear coat. The spray painting was done with lacquer spray paint, but the detailing is done with enamel paints.
You should use Meguiars M205 polish. Its way better. Thats what I use to polish cars on the professional level. (Ferrari's, Lamborghini, etc..)
Also use isopropyl alcohol to remove the polish completely before waxing. And honestly using something like hydrosilex instead of wax is probably better for the scale and longer lasting more protective coating.
I like to use acrylic spray can. Should I apply clear coat after this process?
Awesome build, i would love to see you do the Tamiya Ferrari FXX so i can follow along, its one of my soon builds.
Do you
recommend apply TS13 over decals? Or better apply decals after clearcoat. I had read a lot about the problems with TS13 over decals
What about the lower black panels?
All right, thanks a lot again. Dry sanding? One more last question. Am I able to stick my water slide decal after spraying the ts80?
yes and yes
Have you tried Meguiar's ultimate compound and polish?
A question to you is why not wet sand the whole thing
Hi man 👍 I've watch this series of video's that you have very kindly shared (thank you for that👍) I just have 1 question........ in this video you say 5 days for the clear coat to harden, but even after 5 days it still won't be properly cured, would you be able to let me know how long until it's properly cured? As after watching these video's I feel confident to start my AE86 in the classic panda colour way I just feel I may be a little heavy handed for that final rub down with the 1200 grit before the final polish
These videos you do and the paint jobs you create are fantastic👍I must say I'm a true fan of your channel👍
It should be fully cured after 90 days. Its safe to handle after 5 days. Polishing probably after a week or so
Ok, thank you for your speedy reply 👍
Great video series!
Quick question - in case you were to apply decals to the body of the vehicle would you recommend doing so prior to or after applying the clearcoat?
Cheers
Prior
I would be interested in seeing your process modified for enamels if such exists.
Exactly the same
i see you use tamiya i love that paint to how about enamel
Have you triedrenaissance wax as a final?
Nice video.
How do you paint the black rubber seal from the windows with can?
Mask it off. Paint it
How long does it normally take for you to finish a small car like this. From start to finish. Painting, assembly and detail.
What kind of polishing cloth did you use?
How do you clean your final paint coat (I use Tamiya) before applying clear
I blow it of with an air gun and or a tamiya anti static cleaning brush
While spraying my 1k clear i ran out, it was the next day before i could get more so i decided to let it fully cure. Should i wet sand my clear coat and then clear again, Wet sand and apply a light base and then clear and just clear straight over the cured clear coat? Thanks love the channel
Sand the clear and apply more
I am building a car that is molded in red plastic. I used rattle cans to lay down 2 coats of gray primer followed by 3 coats of the final color, gloss white. My car looks pink! I'm sure I will have to strip the paint and start over, but what would you advise to prevent this from happening?
I have tried a silver base over the primer. That helped slightly. Not sure if its an actual fix though.
If I wanted to add decals can I do this between clear coat #2 and clear coat #3? Or should I do them after #3 and add a #4 coat over them?
Either do it before clearcoating. Or between one of the coats. Though they do need to dry four a couple days before you put the decals on.
I have a question. What if you are making a 60's or earlier car with a lot of chrome trim. Would you paint the trim before the clear coat? Also what if you are using Bare Metal chrome trim?
I would use BMF after the clearcoat
i have a hard time with yellow and black any ideas what i'm doing wrong thank you wayne
Hard to say. I have no idea what it looks like. And or what your interpretation of a hard time is?
Question: Do you rinse down the body in between polishing with the different grits? Or do you go directly into polishing from 1200 to 2000?
Yes, clean the surface before you go to the next grit.
I made the mistake of spraying in my shop thinking it wouldn't get everywhere. Well I was wrong. What paint booth do you recommend using paint can projects?
There are some listed in the description below the video ;)
I like to build race cars and they have many decals. I usually seal them under a clear coat, but not only would I be afraid to sand through the paint but to sand through the decals. Any advice?
If your afraid of sanding through the clear. Then your either sanding to aggressively. Or mot have enough clearcoat on
Hey quick question, I always polish with the Tamia compounds, and what I do is after I apply the clear I sand with 1500 grit, 6000 grit and 8000 grit, and whenever I use the compounds I get streaks no matter what, they resemble scratches on a disc, they’re extremely fine and I was wondering if there is something I should be doing differently or if I am way to meticulous, thanks man!
The jump from 1500 to 6000 is to big.
1500 is also very coarse. So try starting at 3600 then 4200, 5000 etc.
Use smaller steps and make sure to remove all the scratches from the previous step.
Also be sure to use a super soft non scratching cloth.
Lets say. You paper towel, it will scratch
Can I spray paint my car toy even tho if it already painted with it original paint
This is excellent, thank you. I want to use this method, but my kit has a few large water decals that need to go on. At what point would you apply those here? There's one on the roof, the rear and the hood.
Jason Karlek aply 1 or 2 light coats of clear. Let those dry for a couple days. Aply the decals. And add 2 or 3 more coats of clear
That makes perfect sense, thank you! Your channel is extremely helpful. Everything is stunningly simple, but your technique and experience make seem like magic.
Thank you for this well made tutorial. I am currently working on die-cast models in scale 1:18. Is there anything you would recommend to do differently than in this video, when painting a diecast model? For example I wonder if the diecast needs to be sanded before applying the filler, if I sand the filler (same as prime coat?) anyway... Does anyone have experience with this?
Sand the metal with 400 grit before you do anything else. The rest is the same
How come he has the air filter behind when painting
Hey Tom,great work!!! ball park figure, wut would you charge for a paint job on one of these?
Sorry, i’m not looking for commission work
Im new to the hobby. I was wondering if I have to sand down the clearcoat. I am not going for a realistic look. I just want the model to look good on my shelf. I am probably not going to pay too much attention to the orange peel. Most of my pre-built models have a little bit of orange peel. Thank you.
In that case. No
I have a question. I started the hobby again after about 25 years and started my first kit. Got the primer down pretty smooth, but not really happy with the paint, some orange peel. How can I fix the orange before I spray with clear? Can it be sanded and polished out? Suggestions? Thanks.
either sand it down and repaint, or leave it, sandscratches are realy hard to remove from the color coats even after adding more coats.
ok, thanks
When do you paint the trim, like around the windows? After the wax?
After
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thanks. Your channel has helped me so much. Do you sand, polish and wax other body color parts such as side mirrors, hood scoops and spoilers too?
@@CCSUnit13 no, only big pieces that need it
Good day, if im going to use tamiya clear coat just what you did on this video when is the best time to apply the tamiya accent line before or after the clear coat? Thank you
after
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you its my first time to build a scale model
could you give me the list of everything you used innthis video from part 1-4¿
I think that was a no...
I was just wondering what the rotating base you were using to paint the body was, thanks
Tamiya spray stand
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you
Would this 3 part paint tutorial also apply to Aoshima-brand 1/24 kits?
Yes...
can i use on any type of paint? any do's and donts?
I would suggest specific plastic paints or specific modeling paints.
Hi, just wondering if you could help me. Can I sand my model car after spraying a flat clear coat because it's not very smooth after I sprayed the TS80. If so, what sand paper should I use? And should sand it dry or wet?
Matt or semi gloss clear can not be sanded or polished as it will start to shine.
What is the order of application if decals are involved? Do you not polish and just apply decals after paint then clear coat over the decals?
Decals are applied before clearcoating. Polishing is done after clearcoating
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thank you! I love the content BTW!
question: I plan to use your method of painting on a future gundam build. I do want it shiny but do you think a three layer clear coat is necessary or can will i get by with just go with one to two?
Just try and see. If you like it with 1 or 2 stop. if not add more.
hey Tom, im building my first model and was just wondering if you personally clear coat the interior of the car as well or only the exterior
Kelvin Pak only the exterior
Really cool and helpful video mate!
I was really impressed by the result .... I have a Supra with 1K Clear too and I really want to try this out too! Sadly all the stickers are already on the car... can I remove them somehow or would they be sanded down too? (I have another decal sheet of the same car... )
+KBTDK Removing them would be a waste, maybe you can just clear over the decals. or just leave it for a next project. live and learn as they say ;)
im working on a 1966 revell gt350h. in between what stage would i apply the decals? after paint (when the paint is sanded?) and ready for clear?
After paint. Before clear. No sanding
Do you have another form of communication? I had a couple of more questions 🙏🏻
I bought a Rustoleom Black Gloss paint and primer and a Rustoleoum clear coat. I got terrible results. Is it because of the company or is it because I suck at this? I sanded it down with 400 grit before doing anything also.
If I bought Tamiya Black gloss, primer and clear coat, do you think I could get better results?
Not sure in the quality of Rustoleum. though tamiya should be better as it is specificaly made for scalemodeling.
if i use 12,000 grit to polish at the end, is there a need for the meguiars? and is the testors clear alright?
Yes, you will still need to get the final scratches out. I have o idea, never used testors products
Hey Nice Video. Keep up the great work!!! One question. I want to make a dirty model. Is it necessary to spray Clear Coat? And bth I subbed!!!
I don’t know much about weathering. But i thing its better to clearcoat it first. So you can remove waathering easier. Look up: lasercreation world, Plasmo and Luke Towan. They are good at weathering
I'm curious if you've experimented the Tamiya clear coat over Rustoleum rattle cans and how did that work out for you
I have not. We dont have Rustoleum over here
Wouldn't do it. Rustoleum paint is enamel,even though their clears are lacquer.
Hello, I have a question.
If you finished polishing the workpiece, does it need clear coat? (Flat/gloss/pearl)
No, polishing is done to the clear.
Hey great video I just have a quick question, after removing the orange peel and polishing the car I can get a pretty reflective surface however there seems to be small scratches that I can't seem to get rid of, do you have any advice for this?
You will never be able to get rid of those. That is a downside to polishing
Polish with your finger
Why do u have to let the car dry for 5 days? I let each of my coats dry for more than an hour then let the hole thing dry over night is that, going to get a good paint job as the finish?
Sure, but if you want to polish it, the paint will not be hard/dry enough yet to be polished.
Would this be a perfect process to fallow using Testors One coat Lacquer? Any insight would be appreciated
I never used Testors paints, so i can not give you a Yes or no, though i assume it would work the same way with most types and brands of spray paint
The Scalemodeling Channel awesome, so then I'll have to test run the coat on something. I appreciate your help, amazing job on this and that R-34 you did
is it necessary to use sandpaper? or you did it because you got some orange peel in the kit?
The kit does not have orangepeel. This is to help the primer and pain stick.
Do you apply decals before or after the clear gloss?
+Liam Devoy before, but with tamiya spray cans its better to clear, decal, and clear again
you make it look so easy how do you do that when i do it it looks like crap
I’m showing you exactly how i do it😅
thank you so mush what a great job you did
So should I use automotive polishing compounds or Tamiya polishing compound?
Both will do just fine.
+The Scalemodeling Channel But I keep getting swirl marks on the paint...is there something crucial to get rid of that?
Higher grit sand paper, like 4000 or higher and maybe a swirl remover polishing compound.
is it okay to between the paint and clear stage to apply details like painting rubbers on bumper then clear over that im using acrylic tamiya
It is, but if you clear over it everything will be shiny, inlcuding the rubbers, so if that is what you want your good to go this route ;)
Clear coat. Is there a difference for the paints on plastics models.
A difference between what?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Differences between2k and others. What's that about. Clear is clear right
William Aviles no man, that would be like saying a cheeseburger from mcdonalds is the same as one from burger king. Same name different product. Different finish and quality
what do you think about flat clear?
Not much, what do you want to know?
Is it alright to polish it without sanding it?
+Killer King sure
Question: what type of stand do you have for your car ?
tamiya spray stand
Thank you for the Info
Question: I'm working on my first model ever (your vids inspired me to give it a go :P) and I tried to remember your note at 4:30 about not polishing off the thin corners.... annnd i've rushed myself and done just that. I think only the colour layer has started to come off along - stopped as soon as I saw.
I plan on masking and respraying the affected panel/panels but just wondering if you have any tips/advice on doing so?
Should I sand back some of the clear on the rest of the panel with a lower grit then color + clear over the top of the whole thing or just try and focus my sprays on the one area?
I'm using tamiya cans only at this point
Thanks and keep up the great content :)
Thomas Ling i think it would be best to not fix it. Spray cans are pretty aggresive and can leave a very thick edge on the masked area. If you do want to give it a go. Sand the entire panel you want to repaint with 1200 grit sandpaper
Hello! If I have a car that came with decals, should I apply first the decals and after that the clear coats? or viceversa? Thank you
If you have the patience, clear first. then decals. then clear again a final time.
excellent, so one coat first, then decals, finally other coat?
yes
All rigth I'll try, thanks for your help
+The Scalemodeling Channel I've already decal d it is that ok
I accidentally spark clear coat on the plastic windows . Any know how i can remove the foggyness on the windows ?? It wont come off
Which clearcoat have you used?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel uv resistant clear acrylic coating
@@jurado6335 what brand
Hi I'm completely new to scale modeling. Just want to ask if u clear then decal then clear, at which stage does sanding and polishing happen? I would imaging sanding after decal would destroy the decal....
If you have the time and patience, clear decal clear. If you dont have the patience just decal then clear.
You polish after you apply clearcoat and gave the clear a week to dry. Sanding after decals would indeed destroy them :P just like sanding after paint will destroy the paind. Only polish the clear!
thank you for the info.! still a bit confused...So if i have a big chunk of decal that got clear coated, and have orange peel on it, i should just sand around the decal( parts where there is no decal) and avoid the decal(not to destroy it)?
If the decal is clear you can sand it, as you are sanding the clear on top of the decal, not the decal itself, if it is not clear you can not sand the decal.
does the sanding part is necessary if i repaint a 1:64 scale car , like Hotwheels/Matchbox ?
if you want the pint to stick better, yes.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel i mean after applying clear coat
Only if your not happy with the finish
Incredible amount of time an effort. Im wondering why?? Do you submit for competitions?
Nope, just for my own satisfaction