Greetings from Thailand - my own 2012 Q5 tfsi started with the OPL Switch off Engine light intermittently a few months ago - it’s only happening when coming to a stop at traffic lights etc ,but lately it’s happening almost all the time - It starts after Only 10+ miles ,it’s Only coming on when you bring the car to an abrupt stop ,at lights etc and it goes out as soon as you bring the revs above 1200 rpm (One time the engine cut out / EPC came on - but restarted after 1 min and EPC light is off since ) Any idea what might be ?? - ( I would love to have some knowledge before I bring the car in for inspection - it’s not the easiest with a language barrier etc ) Many thanks
Iam having the same issue. I've had a new oil pump, oil change, new low pressure sensor and switch, but still getting the warning light at stops and after about 8 to 10 miles. Afraid to drive further than that during to fear of doing more damage.
Sorry for not getting back to you much sooner. I wonder if you took it in and what they told you? Most of what I have been seeing for low oil pressure has been caused by the cam bridge and the intake camshaft phaser. They seem to leak oil at such a rate that there is low oil pressure. I have seen several instances where the cambridge check ball is actually loose and does not provide a good seal. Thanks for watching and I hope you were able to resolve your issue.
SO , as I mentioned above most of the low oil pressures situations I have seen have been fixed from either the cambridge or the intake camshaft with phaser. Please let me know if you have solved your issue and how so that we can help others that have the same concern. Thanks for watching and the comment.
I've got the 2010 skoda version of the engine, EA888 gen 2 1.8L TSI, with the low oil pressure only at hot idle problem, which sound like what you've got. I've seen allot of debate about whether it's the cam bridge or the intake cam shaft. Allot of people have to replace the intake camshaft to solve the problem, in addition to the cam bridge. I'm just doing the cam bridge, in addition to a seized exhaust balance shaft and all the chains and guides... Hoping that fixes it, if not intake camshaft is next on the list...
Well, I can tell you in my experience I've seen the most successful repairs in changing the cam bridge and intake cam. Though if your balance shaft failed, that will cause a low oil pressure situation. I would inspect the intake balance shaft as well and drop the oil pan to inspect the oil pickup tube to make sure there is no debris in it from the failure. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Hey man im getting a p0341 im about the change the intake cam so far I dont see anything wrong with the cam no excessive freeplay but I have noticed the cam bridge the sleeve in which the ball for the cam bridge is housed is pressed out I have to tap it back in what do you sopposed will cause this?
I changed the cam bridge and the next one when I took it out came out with the sleeve pushed out as well so I'm about to change the intake cam I'm only getting p0341 no engine noise etc
Hello, Sorry I am just getting to the comments. If the screen is still there, it goes into the bore of the check ball just a bit. Mine was missing completely and the check ball sleeve was pushed out way too far. Unfortunately like I said in my video unfortunately I have been seeing a lot of these lately and they all have different issues. Keep me posted on houw you make out with your repair. And thanks for watching.
@@willpoweredgarage969 Hey np I took out the oil pump it seems like it's failing turns kind of stuff also it's one of those Audi Chinese pumps could not get to remove the balance shafts because they are seized in there but they turn fine so my repair I'm changing the oil pump intake camshaft for the cam range performance error and cam bridge with a new spool valve I really think it's the oil pump pumping low pressured oil causing the cam errors and the sleeve on the cam bridge to push out will keep you updated thanks for replying.
You know things that my mechanical skills can only dream of. Was wondering what that gauge was you used at min 6:27; couldn't quite pick it up. I own a mk6 2.5L and the pr. switches are above each other by the oil filter housing. Not sure how to get at them to afix a tester. Looks like parts need to be removed and then reattached before checking the pressure. Very knowledgeable video. Ty
The tester I used is just a pressure transducer made by Fluke. But, any mechanical pressure gauge will work. Yes, you do need to remove at least one of the sensors to make your connection. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
@@willpoweredgarage969 ok thanks for that. Didn't know that a multimeter could read psi or bar; may be the one I've had for many yrs is ancient, like me. Haha. My jetta sounds fine at rpm; the beeping n lght come on when it warms up.
I have been getting a lot of calls about this issue lately. If you are seeing below 15psi at hot idle you have an oil pressure issue. What weight oil and type are you running?
Well I was getting this p0341 and at stops switch engine of check oil levels a stutter at 1500rpm and edc flick. So I changed all the sensors first nothing finally I pull the front of the car off and pulled the covers. Cambridge screen was intact but flogging around in channel and the ball check valve was pushed out so pushed it back in and staked that B. Timing was with in standards no bad ware. Put all back together this morning. Feeling like the Man. Drive it for a long while. No code no stutter but stop and there is the turn of car check oil🤔
Hey hey do you think my low oil is because that ball check valve is worn out cuz I did notice mine was just like yours and I just pushed it back in but come to this k about it it’s real soft
It maybe damaged? I have been hearing a lot of success of people replacing the cam bridge and the intake camshaft because of the vanes in the adjuster leaking too much oil. I also recommend going with a heavier weight oil.
As I said in my video, this is just what worked on mine. There are various things that could cause this condition. I was just trying to avoid the $900 camshaft and adjuster.
Dang...it would've been nice to see how you removed the balance shafts. No other guys on youtube actually show the process "Engine -in". They cheap out and do show the bench removal.....
That's because there is no pretty way to remove them. They are usually stuck in, and audi and vw both say they need to be replaced if removed. There is a special tool to remove them. It's an attachment that grabs the gear and uses a slide hammer to pull them out. The intake one can be pushed out after removing the waterpump and drive cog.
Hi mate we have a 2.0 golf r low oil pressure . The engines been rebuilt by engineering shop . But has low oil pressure the pressure valve on the bottom of the engine connected or not connected doesnt apear to do anything when looking at the pressure on the oil guage
I have seen this many times on rebuilt engines. VW and Audi use a color coded system for bearing clearances and these a critical. Most of the low oil pressure problems I have been seeing is related to the cam bridge and the intake camshaft phaser.
awesome video and will sent you all a email of shocking suprise im going to send each of the girls and send max a egift card from walmart for his birthday figured he was a little young for the egift cards i sent the girls for thier bday
Greetings from Thailand - my own 2012 Q5 tfsi started with the OPL Switch off Engine light intermittently a few months ago
- it’s only happening when coming to a stop at traffic lights etc ,but lately it’s happening almost all the time -
It starts after Only 10+ miles ,it’s Only coming on when you bring the car to an abrupt stop ,at lights etc and it goes out as soon as you bring the revs above 1200 rpm
(One time the engine cut out / EPC came on - but restarted after 1 min and EPC light is off since )
Any idea what might be ?? - ( I would love to have some knowledge before I bring the car in for inspection - it’s not the easiest with a language barrier etc )
Many thanks
Iam having the same issue. I've had a new oil pump, oil change, new low pressure sensor and switch, but still getting the warning light at stops and after about 8 to 10 miles. Afraid to drive further than that during to fear of doing more damage.
Sorry for not getting back to you much sooner. I wonder if you took it in and what they told you? Most of what I have been seeing for low oil pressure has been caused by the cam bridge and the intake camshaft phaser. They seem to leak oil at such a rate that there is low oil pressure. I have seen several instances where the cambridge check ball is actually loose and does not provide a good seal. Thanks for watching and I hope you were able to resolve your issue.
SO , as I mentioned above most of the low oil pressures situations I have seen have been fixed from either the cambridge or the intake camshaft with phaser. Please let me know if you have solved your issue and how so that we can help others that have the same concern. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Great quality of the information and presentation skills👍
Thanks for watching and the kind words.
I've got the 2010 skoda version of the engine, EA888 gen 2 1.8L TSI, with the low oil pressure only at hot idle problem, which sound like what you've got. I've seen allot of debate about whether it's the cam bridge or the intake cam shaft. Allot of people have to replace the intake camshaft to solve the problem, in addition to the cam bridge. I'm just doing the cam bridge, in addition to a seized exhaust balance shaft and all the chains and guides... Hoping that fixes it, if not intake camshaft is next on the list...
Well, I can tell you in my experience I've seen the most successful repairs in changing the cam bridge and intake cam. Though if your balance shaft failed, that will cause a low oil pressure situation. I would inspect the intake balance shaft as well and drop the oil pan to inspect the oil pickup tube to make sure there is no debris in it from the failure. Thanks for watching and the comment.
Hey man im getting a p0341 im about the change the intake cam so far I dont see anything wrong with the cam no excessive freeplay but I have noticed the cam bridge the sleeve in which the ball for the cam bridge is housed is pressed out I have to tap it back in what do you sopposed will cause this?
Lol just got to the end of the video and that's exactly how my cam bridge is pushed out ok let me continue onto part 2 😂
I changed the cam bridge and the next one when I took it out came out with the sleeve pushed out as well so I'm about to change the intake cam I'm only getting p0341 no engine noise etc
Hello, Sorry I am just getting to the comments. If the screen is still there, it goes into the bore of the check ball just a bit. Mine was missing completely and the check ball sleeve was pushed out way too far. Unfortunately like I said in my video unfortunately I have been seeing a lot of these lately and they all have different issues. Keep me posted on houw you make out with your repair. And thanks for watching.
@@willpoweredgarage969 Hey np I took out the oil pump it seems like it's failing turns kind of stuff also it's one of those Audi Chinese pumps could not get to remove the balance shafts because they are seized in there but they turn fine so my repair I'm changing the oil pump intake camshaft for the cam range performance error and cam bridge with a new spool valve I really think it's the oil pump pumping low pressured oil causing the cam errors and the sleeve on the cam bridge to push out will keep you updated thanks for replying.
Hit that like #4 and running this vid as we head out on errands 👍👍👍
Thanks guys, Appreciate that.
You know things that my mechanical skills can only dream of. Was wondering what that gauge was you used at min 6:27; couldn't quite pick it up. I own a mk6 2.5L and the pr. switches are above each other by the oil filter housing. Not sure how to get at them to afix a tester. Looks like parts need to be removed and then reattached before checking the pressure. Very knowledgeable video. Ty
The tester I used is just a pressure transducer made by Fluke. But, any mechanical pressure gauge will work. Yes, you do need to remove at least one of the sensors to make your connection. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
@@willpoweredgarage969 ok thanks for that. Didn't know that a multimeter could read psi or bar; may be the one I've had for many yrs is ancient, like me. Haha.
My jetta sounds fine at rpm; the beeping n lght come on when it warms up.
Got the exact same codes, changing the switches first lets hope its just that
I have been getting a lot of calls about this issue lately. If you are seeing below 15psi at hot idle you have an oil pressure issue. What weight oil and type are you running?
Well I was getting this p0341 and at stops switch engine of check oil levels a stutter at 1500rpm and edc flick. So I changed all the sensors first nothing finally I pull the front of the car off and pulled the covers. Cambridge screen was intact but flogging around in channel and the ball check valve was pushed out so pushed it back in and staked that B. Timing was with in standards no bad ware. Put all back together this morning. Feeling like the Man. Drive it for a long while. No code no stutter but stop and there is the turn of car check oil🤔
Hey hey do you think my low oil is because that ball check valve is worn out cuz I did notice mine was just like yours and I just pushed it back in but come to this k about it it’s real soft
It maybe damaged? I have been hearing a lot of success of people replacing the cam bridge and the intake camshaft because of the vanes in the adjuster leaking too much oil. I also recommend going with a heavier weight oil.
As I said in my video, this is just what worked on mine. There are various things that could cause this condition. I was just trying to avoid the $900 camshaft and adjuster.
Dang...it would've been nice to see how you removed the balance shafts. No other guys on youtube actually show the process "Engine -in". They cheap out and do show the bench removal.....
That's because there is no pretty way to remove them. They are usually stuck in, and audi and vw both say they need to be replaced if removed. There is a special tool to remove them. It's an attachment that grabs the gear and uses a slide hammer to pull them out. The intake one can be pushed out after removing the waterpump and drive cog.
@@willpoweredgarage969 So you used the t1093-1 tool on the exhaust and removed the water pump to get to the reverse threaded bolt on the intake?
Naptown tuner shows a lot
@@jeamohney He never shows the engine-in removal.
@@deejay4837 because engine removal is like 3-4h job, and it's way easier then
Hi mate we have a 2.0 golf r low oil pressure . The engines been rebuilt by engineering shop . But has low oil pressure the pressure valve on the bottom of the engine connected or not connected doesnt apear to do anything when looking at the pressure on the oil guage
I have seen this many times on rebuilt engines. VW and Audi use a color coded system for bearing clearances and these a critical. Most of the low oil pressure problems I have been seeing is related to the cam bridge and the intake camshaft phaser.
Thank you@@willpoweredgarage969
awesome video and will sent you all a email of shocking suprise im going to send each of the girls and send max a egift card from walmart for his birthday figured he was a little young for the egift cards i sent the girls for thier bday
Thanks for watching Mike. We appreciate you!
Awesome!!!
1.2 bar = 17.4 psi