It's three years from when you made this video and I want to say it is still very relevant. I appreciate that you ask the question as you go through your process in a very thoughtful way. Great work Thank you 🔥
I was working on my wife’s Audi 2.0t, when I say working on it I mean trying to find the 1/4 ratchet and socket that lodged itself under the car somewhere. I was listening to the video without watching the video. I pulled up the video and I see the bumper is removed (I heard him say that) but I also see the right fender is gone!!?!! It’s going to the local import shop tomorrow, I’m not even going to try deal with everything this MAN has done so far. 3 hour water pump?? WTF? I’ll do what I’m good at and my highly skilled technicians can figure out why her car has oil light blinking and a little bit of a loud upper engine. Evidence of someone else being in as deep as missing body and engine parts. I’m tappin’ out! God Bless you sir for what you got yourself into.
This has to be the absolute best video on this or ANY mechanical subject ..... A full , careful component by component approach into investigating each part for the failure culprit .... A constant state of proactive thinking through the start to finish process ..... A conclusion assessment segment of the failure process , to be able to learn from this ..... and to be able to assess further identical engines in the future . A top tier video . I am a certified heavy vehicle specialist ... all trades could benefit with video production like this in their training segments .
@@ETMotorsportsall new or old cars, which do not come fitted with an oil pressure gauge, should be fitted with an oil pressure sender and it's wiring routed to a pressure gauge on top of the dashboard. At 750rpm and as my engine coolant temperature gradually gets to 195 degree F the oil pressure can dropped from as high as 4+bar to about 1barg. At 80 to 82F oil is at 1.5barg. At 200 to 2002F and on a stop-go-stop-go traffic on a very hot day oil pressure could drop to 0.8 to 0.7bar. Oil is 5W40. Put to neutral the rpm jumps to 850 and oil at 1.5bar. At 2000rpm oil is good at 3barg. At 3000 rpm it is not less than 4.5barg. Oil pressure at lowest idling rpm needs to be at least 1bar at the hottest day?. Thanks
This video and part one helped me fix my sons car! We got lucky and only had to replace the cam bridge. Previous screen and support ring had broken and clogged the blades behind the intake cam end cover. Also, metal was on the intake screen on the vacuum pump. Cleaned that out and replaced. All codes gone and doesn’t hesitate, stall, no more long crank or EPC light. Thanks!
On the Audi workshop manual there is a mention that the balance shafts should not be put in their place by any force. If force is used the aluminium sealing surface of the saft (the edge part of aluminium part whese the sceens are) can damage and couse oil leaking between the block and the balance saft sealing surface. The workshop advises to put the safts to cold (like -20 degrees of celcius/30min) before the installation. I can not see any else low oil pressure problem that could be balance shafts related. Ps: Great job and info! Cheers from Finland!
@@ETMotorsports You earned these kinds words by a mile. Indeed, a love/hate relationship with these german cars (at the back of my mind I'm thinking it's time for a switch to a Honda, I'll be honest). My son's 2011 GTi had the exact same issues, only more dicey as he was on a 900mi road trip and every time he'd hit a slow traffic (aka substantial deceleration and RPM drop), light would come on and car would shut down. He tried to avoid stop/go and he made it. So we'll cut to the chase and go for a cam replacement straightaway. The replacement of the VVTi solenoid/magnet didn't do much.
Great Video! You are completely right. People must understand that an pump is doing volume not pressure. The pressure is done by limiting volume. The engine has a lot of passages that are creating pressure, the play between the engine bearings, everything is done in such way to hold or create pressure. This is the first thing that everyone has to know when messing with pressures. just an observation: the engine has 2 large oil circuits, 1 head circuit and 2nd is the bottom end. If one of those circuits is not able to hold pressure the other one will suffer. So if the bottom end is loosing pressure you will have tappet noise and if the head circuit is loosing pressure it is very possible that in short time the engine bearings or something from the bottom end to be destroyed.
This oil pump has a piston that slides a gear, to change the volume of oil in these engines depending on rpm, so as this pump increases and decreases volume it changes the oil pressure in the engine. The larger the volume, the greater the pressure. If the pump is not changing volume properly, you will get an oil pressure light, because the system is expecting a certain pressure, and not reading said pressure.
YES... BUT, consider that this oil pump seems to have a VARIABLE volume feature, which add to the complexity and also adds another Point-of-Failure: the pump's own variable volume mechanism! "Modern" engine designers have gone too far in quest for higher fuel efficiency, and therefore have created more "Points-of-Failure"... They have also made stoopid decisions, like (ab)using the use of plastics!: it appears to me that those little "oil screens" are very stoopid!, because, first, those desintegrate by heat and the idiotic "eco-phanatic" obsession with using "biodegradable" plastics that just don't endure the under hood temperatures of automobile engines; and second, it is completely RIDICULOUS to install any "oil screen" that has a way much larger particle size filtering than the paper oil filter, but will release metal wire screen pieces and plastic bits inside the engine... those little "screens" seem to me as dumb as the old saying: "Stupid does, as stupid is" ! I still have a perfectly running OLD, 1991 vintage Dodge Spirit R/T Turbo with the 2.5L Four cyl engine, and the only attention its Balance shafts have required, was to readjust the METAL chain tensioner that rotates them!
Another observation after I saw the previous video when you first opened the camshaft phaser. When the driver hits the gas pedal WOT the ECU is opening or closing the camshaft phaser for power and high flow of oil is sent inside the phaser and this is smashing the plunger to the walls creating contact points. This is creating wear on both sides which in the end is creating gaps where the oil can escape creating oil pressure loss. This gaps together with oil thinning at high temperature is reducing pressure. In my country (tested by me also using oil pressure gauges) most of engine rebuilders, tuners is recommending 5w50 or 10w60 just because this engine oils are better at high temperatures. Audi/VW on their EA113 and EA888 engines recommended 5w30 which is too thin at high temperatures. I would recommend you also to use the pressure gauge to know exactly what pressure do you have when you are doing diagnosis and after repair.
Also it is very good to put some oil additive for e.g. Liqui Moly ceratec, which is used to make protective film over the metal surfaces. Very good practice for maintaining those engines.
i have a 2013 a4 with 205k miles and have been running mobile 15w50 since 50k my audi mechanic swears by it i have had only one major issue which was rear main seal at 198k other than that she runs like the day i drove her off the lot no leaks no dash lights no codes so i agree the thicker the better with these engines
A balance must be found between fuel economy (fluid oil) and the benefits of viscosity (thicker oil). As a major part of the wear of the engine is during starting, thicker oil take more time to lubricate all parts of the engine and can open the by-pass valves (like in the oil filter) so creating more wear than fluid oil. Too fluid oils are not a solution also. Usualy serious engine makers give the proper viscosity for their applications@@REfanforlife
Hi Emilio! Grate job mate! I'm so happy that you shared this video, I think you are the first and the only one so far, who shared the solution for "Low Oil Pressure" issue. I was looking very carefully to the video, and I think you have done very well keeping the oil screens (although a lot of other YT videos suggests it is better to remove them), because in my opinion the entire setup of the oil scheme it's calibrated with those screens on (they have some resistance which is affecting the oil pressure thresholds). Of course, if those oil screens gets clogged they are not affecting only the oil pressure thresholds (low, high) but also the lubrication of the upstream parts ending up to have damaged camshafts, cam bridge, intake camshaft timing adjuster, balance shafts which needs to be replaced in the end. I reviewed the first video you made on this subject, and when you presented the intake camshaft timing adjuster, actually it could be observed those 5 stoppers walls that do not have same shape and also those 3 affected plungers. Is it possible having that wear in the intake camshaft timing adjuster (plungers and intake wheel), when the engine runs on idle, the adjustment angle to be over/sub passed with 0.5-1 degree which could lead to this issue? Or maybe the wear of the adjuster plungers just makes the intake adjuster to get stuck only at low oil pressure and gets released immediately after increasing a little the revs from 850 to 950 rpm and thus the oil pressure (actually, this is the behavior on my Audi when the oil gets around ~100C). Anyway, when I will take the decision to get rid of this issue, definitely I will take your videos as reference and lead the troubleshooting based on what you did. Thank you again, and waiting news about the car, how it works in time if you will not sell it till then! :) Best Regards, Iulian
Watched this video years ago. Watching again. Plan to do my cam bridge and vvt valve. I did timing chains back in 2019. I think the low oil pressure light is an indication of the oil pressure control valve, a check valve, and or more than likely the low oil pressure switch has gotten dirty.
@ModernMillwright I wish it was that easy... hopefully yours is... that's where I started with mine and it's the easiest step... changing the oil pump I think is the hardest maybe so maybe exhaust all other options forest
There are bulletins from vw saying to remove the screens. If there is an orifice hole that regulates oil pressure do not remove but the actual screens you can remove
My argument on what you saying from 43 min about oil pressure being measured before and balance shaft being on the lower end of the engine would be tolerance in either crankshaft main bearings and bigends bearings including balance shafts would affect oil pressure for the entire system irregardless of how the components are located before and after oil being measured all these parts contribute to the oil irrespective of their positioning. Great video though I am learning appreciate transparency and reasoning behind and beyond just throwing parts in.
Cam phaser does not causing low oil pressure issues, but low oil pressure issues causing cam phasing issues and also cam phaser wear. On that engines oil pump could cause that kind of problems. Uneven wear of phaser vanes are common on all those EA888 gen2 engines because of design of this sprocket housing, not wear. We are opened completely new cam phaser and desing is uneven. I have recently changed that vanes on my Mk6 GTI, because VVT was little bit noisy and has diesel like noise, but oil pressure is ok. Vanes wear was predominant when cam is phased in end position and when timing chain wear is significant. If you want less phaser wear, change timing chain and also fill up the oil. Low oil could also cause phaser wear.
Just watched your oil pressure video I have gone through this the problem was the balance shaft. You mentioned wear on the balance shaft bearing you could see through the oil hole this indicates worn balance shaft bearing causing the oil to go back to the pan it needs to have tight tolerances to hold oil pressure. I cut mine open and saw a badly worn bearing. In my case I deleted the balance shafts and installed an electric water pump as I was building a performance car. Check those balance shafts.
I was one of those buyers and the car had the oil pressure light. The car ran fine, had compression, no knock so the seller knocked off a couple of a hundred stating it was possibly the sensor. I just went through all your same troubleshooting, but have not done the cams yet. The intake camshaft journals and runners are badly scored. I pulled the cylinder head out, piston oil rings need to he replaced, piston cylinder walls are also scratched, literally a junk engine. But the car cosmetically looks phenomenal. I got burned on the sale, I either hands on and do a complete overhaul or slap everything back and tell the new buyer the same I was told and pass forward this lemon of a car.
Yes its a lemon car ! i remember when i entered the USA after i was working on air cooled engines on vw those engines had bearing shells at ea journal ! Was well built ! My 2015 vw jetta 1.8 has same problem like exualy bent valves and i replaced those than after i opened up the timing chain area suprisley i deednt see problem that could it had coused the falier of engine so i ordered the timing chain kit and the gasket set i I opened up bottom part of the engine i inspected rod bearing and put it back cover i found not much dirt in site , i figured oil pump was ok since i spin pump gear and delivered oil in engine .I cleaned all wholes and anewhere with air and i put it together yesterday i started up run fine but yelow and red oil lite came on in cluster i figured i need to scan / delate the codes and will go away , in mean time i was lookingfore my pressure gage that i could not found so today on you tube i was wached Emilios video and got to the point where i had to make a new tour in my engine i hat to doo but no choice other than pull a part the engine at Balance shaft area even doh my cam bridge had not even a hole for sceren i think the camshaft is my problem that was little stucky according to my 3 vw i worked on before . I like the video Emilio was talking on in the video he upload and i am thankful for it ! So At list i got some leeds to think and go forwald to get the job done ! Oh i was thinking to get a used cilinder head from E Bay that has better journals than on camshafts oh and I used girt 400 sand paper to smootened tham journals . I am very sad this day car makers make such lemonish " cars One more thing i almost forgot i put 6 liter oil and the stick shoved on bottom line on so i add 1 more litter and sowed right I wonder wgere the extra 1 liter ended up in the engine ! Maybe at between balance shaft and the black plastic sleeve ??? Aneyway what are you guys recomand what should i doo next to solve my oil lite issue ! I realy dont think the oil pressure sencer's will solve oil lit problem !
@@gabormoor9516 Follow up on my MK6 GTi, three pistons had cracked secondary rings, ring parts missing, and the oil control ring was clugged in carbonized oil. All the rod bearings were scored bad, flaked beyond recognition. I literamly have an expensive paperweight in my driveway. I cannot believe this engine won engineering awards back when they were released back in 2009. I need a new engine block and cylinder head. No shop wants to touch european cars, only imports and american muscle domestic cars. Called five shops, and none want to overbore the block. I have not taken out the crankshaft yet. ** remove all the oil screens, cam bridge, HPFP, balance shafts I did not read replacing the rings!? How much carbon buildup on pistons, valves, port bowls? These engines, the OEM oil rings are beyond trash, is some kind of meshed flexible wire, not waffle type, they get clogged bad. Update: found a shop who overbored the block, am almost done with the build, new Ebay cylinder head, which now am doing port work as the runners did not have correct transition. Am slapping everything back, cut my losses and sell the car.
@@famom9198 Tell me about it, yes and kind of no... After I fixed it that I had no more check engine light, the intake balance shaft (water pump side) bearing seized out of nowhere, so I had to tear it down at least the timing cover side. Buy new genuine revised balance shafts ($700) and a new timing kit as some plastic pieces cracked and said F it and bought a new kit ($300). It currently has a stage 1 from Integrated Engineering, running 15psi, modded intake airbox, catted downpipe (it helped a lot on bringing down engine bay temps) w a O2 simulator jic, w catback exhaust that replaced the mufflers w dual resonators. It is running fine, no overheating, cel, it just passed state emissions w the tune installed. *Lately it is giving me a low oil pressure light, it just started after an oil change, before I had Quaker full synthetic 5-30w and swapped to Penzoil same specs, and it looks like it does not like it on heavy traffic, and only happens light comes on and goes away on very bad hot heavy traffic. I dumped the oil and put now 10-40w conventional and the oil sensor light and the light has not come back. JIC, I will be swapping soon the oil pump, easy weekend project. I put two washers on each side of the hood supports to raise it a little and removed rhe rubber weather band near the firewall wipers to let heat out (water does not get in). It has a turbo jacket, swapped to aftermarket charge pipes to help w flow. I did get a bad pcv valve so I replaced that also w the oil sensor. I would remove the oil cap and wanted to fly out, luckily I caught it on time, weird is no lights or codes. These cars are amazing, but one has to be on top of the game or it will bite back with hurting your wallet. So I tore the engine out literally three times, first time was to fix the engine block, second one, bad camshafts, 3rd one bad balance shafts. I see these cars on FB marketplace w 120k miles, and kids fall for it because they are deceiving. But these cars the engine, transmission and parts have an around 100k expiration. I replaced the following: cylinder head camshafts, cam bridge water pump, oil pump pistons w waffle oil rings and overbore the block timing chain kit and cover intake manifold some injectors and injector kit oil pan, new rod and main bearings dsg flywheel rear main seal besides that, all four corners wheel bearings *and now the inner roof liner is falling off and the radio is half ass working... But you look atthe car from the outside and the interiors and looks nice, and I get complements all the time, is fast as f0k and chew sport civics, Kias and Hyundais for breakfast, the dsg sounds badass. I put sound deadeing material to tone down the drone and added an extra resonator to the main line after the cat (btw it is a lexus cat) not some cheap ebay dowbpipe, I custom made it. Have a spare complete block cylindet head etc I am gonna rebuild and have as backup, but still thinking about it. *thanks for asking, let me know if you have any questions*
Ive had it before on these motors where the balance shaft on the exhaust side sized and resulting in us needing to replace almost everything in the motor, the balance shafts sizing is a issue
I will say, that removing the intake manifold takes about 10 mins to take off, saving hours of headache trying to fight the water pump belt from underneath the intake manifold.. I've done it enough times now that it's just so much less headache to yank the intake off.
@@ETMotorsports Agreed. Was just more so for future viewers ;) We're actually chasing a low-oil issue on my buddy's 11 Tiguan, which is what led me here in the first place.
Hi Emilio, I love your video and I've learned more by watching your video than most others I've watched combined. My issues started 2 years ago when my Cambridge screen blew out, as a result of my PVC failing. I have noticed some ridges on the end of both Camshafts, but with minimal sanding I was able to lower the worst culprits; I replaced the Cambridge too. I was informed about the Cambridge screen failure by a mechanic at that time, but I'm not sure exactly what elements of the screen he recovered & removed, so I don't know what damage there may be. After I received his bill for just looking I decided to learn & fix myself. I know I've spent a lot of cash, but I've still saved so much by doing it myself. Plus I now have lots of lovely tools. 😁 I'm not going to go in to much more detail because my current symptoms are identical to yours and to other posters below. I too have replaced most of the parts you had, aside from the Pressure Control Valve, Balance Shafts and Intake Camshaft. When changing the Timing Chains a year ago, after I heard a loud internal scraping noise I discovered that my Balance Shaft Chain was simply hanging loose. I checked the Balance Shafts and they appeared to move freely, they weren't loose, but I could still turn them with my fingers while they were in-situ. I also had a separate oil problem as well as low oil pressure and I was not sure what or how but the top end was very noisy. So, I changed the oil pump & pick up & I found an oversized piece of black silicone poking out of one of the tiny channels on the bottom of the engine, which I suspect must have been left by the previous 'mechanic'; I couldn't believe it and I hate to think what damage it's caused. So, I removed the silicone, fitted the new Audi Oil Pump, put things together and ran it. although it is sounding so much better on the top of the engine now, my issue, as you describe it, still remains. My next job is to buy a new Intake Camshaft, 2 new Balance Shafts and go from there... Can I ask what you used to prepare and clean the Cam Journals/Seats, especially the one at the back that had a little scouring? Did you use installation grease/paste for the Camshafts? Also, what sealant did you use for the Cam Cover & did you buy new bolts for the cover? Again, thanks for the video, I can't thank you enough...! 😎 Paul.
Yes, it is very annoying to say the least...! 😄 Thanks for your advice, much appreciated and valued. I will be sure to do my best to get my engine working for the first time in 2 years... Lol Thanks again, Paul.
So did the oil pump fix your oil pressure issue? I have oil pressure low only when cruising. Top of engine is noisy.. p0341. I have already replaced my entire timing assembly and balance shaft. My next job is to replace intake cam and cambridge.. the damage resulted from my screen failing too.. but idk if the low oil pressure when hot is because of the damage.. or pump. Either way do you reccomend upgrading the pump? Regardless im replacing intake cam.. and cambridge. My exaust cam is worn to but not nearly as bad as intake cam. Can i get away with sanding it like you said? Just the end so it rides better?
@@readylucas Hi... No, but it didn't hurt changing the old pump for a new one as the original one was very warn and rattling/clicking as it turned. There was a large blob of black silicone wedged in one of the ports at the top of the oil pump (thanks to the mechanic who last changed my chains! Never again!!!), which made a massive difference to the rattling noise on the top end, but removing it made no noticeable difference to the oil pressure. After changing nearly all of the outer components of the engine, this final issue was simply the Intake Camshaft. I bit the bullet and bought a genuine camshaft and replaced it. I rebuilt the top of the engine carefully and correctly, not rushing, and it started first time, with no issues and has been fine since. I gave it a baptism by fire and just 2 days after the rebuild I took my son on a 1,000 mile round trip away and it was absolutely fine. In fact, it performed better than when I bought it...! Upon my return I took the old camshaft apart to check with my own eyes, and I am not joking when I say that I am amazed it ever started or ran...!! It was so warn out that the fins wobbled in their seats with just a gentle touch. When I manually turned the VVT, all of the fins moved a further 3 or 4 millimetres further than they should, I kid you not. It was absolutely finished, more than finished...!!! (I'm trying not to swear/cuss) A final note, now that I know my way around my engine (mostly), I have come to learn that most, if not all, of the 'mechanics' that had previously worked on my engine, they either had no clue what they were doing and/or didn't care and EVERYTHING that had been previously worked, it was not put back together correctly. The Timing Chain Cover was sealed correctly and silicone was oozing out externally and internally like it had been applied with a spoon. The Vacuum Pump, the one at the rear of the exhaust Camshaft, it's 3 ply Gasket was bent over on one corner and it was constantly leaking oil. The same pump had only 3 bolts fitted of the required 4, because one of the holes threads were stripped (I fixed with one of those aftermarket rethreading kits). The Valve/timing/rocker Cover was not seated correctly, thus allowing the camshafts to bend under load. Only the main timing chain had previously been changed & the Balance Shafts chain was actually completely hanging off. 😳 The list goes on! Seriously... It's working well now and uses/loses/burns less than half the oil it did previously. Thanks Emilio for your video, it was a great help and I thank you from the bottom of my heart. 👍
@@vorlockfoss similar issue here was causing my oil pressure loss. Intake cam was worn to fuck all, I just looked at it and said fuck this didn't go as far as rebuild because I don't have the tools. Literally looked like the camshaft had been riding on sandpaper, shit still ran, ran rough and threw timing codes but it ran! Also it never ran low on oil in my possession. I believe what tore the intake cam to shred was a failed camshaft bridge screen, not completely sure but IT WAS missing!
Great video. I'm just replacing my balance shafts. The intake one seized. Caused engine to lock up. Balance shaft chain was stretchedto the limit and guides worn. Adjuster was not seating squarley on the guide and according to Naptown tuner this will cause loss of oil pressure. Now seeing your video I want to be sure that the balance shaft is getting enough oil. I think I will pop it out and blow air into the passage. I never had a low oil pressure condition until a shop replaced the breather box , remove an reinstall cam bridge . Oil light would come on when coming to a stop. If I bump up the throttle just as I stopped it would not come on. This would happen when hot. Then 60,000 miles later the balanceshaft seized. Also 60,000 mile ago a second shop replaced cam bridge, exhaust cam, rockers and lifters, and cam change cartridge. I also noticed that the new balance shafts dont have the groove machined into the rear bearing surface.
Fascinating analysis! I’m very surprised that the Passat intake camshaft has the exact same spec (lobe dimensions) as the Audi camshaft. I thought camshafts were very application specific.
The 2.0t is pretty much the same across the whole line... some differences in the turbo setup and mounting because of the longitudinal vs. transverse installation but that's about it... the Audi has a variable exhaust cam so that one you can't swap over but the intake cam is the same
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the quick reply! I do agree that "the 2.0t is pretty much the same across the whole line", however... I have a 2013 VW Beetle Turbo and a 2014 VW GTI (both mk6, both with EA888 2.0t engines, gen 2 I think, and both with 6-speed DSG transmissions), and the GTI is quite noticeably faster. I'd always assumed that was because they gave the GTI a more aggressive camshaft. Looking at both engine bays, they are essentially identical. If it's not the camshaft which is causing the GTI to be much quicker, what do you think it might be? Genuinely curious. Cheers!
Thank you for the video, it helped me better understand the whole issue.I have 09 Audi A3 CCTA engine.Oil pressure light comes on only when the engine is at the operating temp and when I slow down.Highway driving nothing happens until I slow down and rpms go under 2000 . As soon as I speed up it disappears.Drives me crazy.
@@stefanstoyanov6576 I didn’t do anything .I keep driving it like that. So far I did 30000 km, I just ignore the annoying beep.Vozim pa dok ide nek ide
I've got the exact same problem. Been driving for about 10k with it with the exact same symptoms.... Has anybody figured out what our specific symptoms to point to?
Tremendous work you put in fixing this motor. You and naptown are legends in TFSI engines! Much appreciated! As my piece of crap Audi displays EPC light, I might need to change the intake camshaft. Any chance you have a part number please?
Thank you for taking the time to do this complete workup. I have a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro Avant auto trans. It is also throwing oil pressure codes and EPC light on at 1100 RPM and computer basically shuts engine off as expected timing vs actual is so far out of whack. Actually just started tearing down everything I can get done without putting front in service position. Car also now has a stuck fuel injector from sitting 😞 I might do my own video if I can resolve issue.
buy an injector puller, remover, Humblemechanic has a video on injector overhaul showing use of the tool. *good luck buddy, these engines will take you to the dark alleys of frustration. Working on them is like doing 15,000 pieces puzzle.
As of right now I have 2 heads sitting in my living room and 1 on my coffee table getting rebuilt, as well as a freshly rebuilt one I just installed on the block I rebuilt.ive almost wrapped up the motor but I can tell you on the two blocks I've dismantled, one of them had the black sleeve broken but the balance shaft still rotated fine. I've been chasing an epc light with the same exact issues. I too opened up the intake camshaft to verify everything was clean etc. Now you have me questioning the wear in there as I do not recall. I actually put it all back together and just installed it the other day. I personally don't see a reason that it cannot be a serviceable part as VAG states anything and everything needs to be replaced once removed which we know isn't always the case. Between red loctite and torquing each bolt the same, the camshaft should be fine. I think they state it isn't more for a prentative maintenance just like the balance shafts. Thanks for the video, I will tell you this, as of now everything to me was leading to oil galleys in the block being gunked up allowing minimal oil flow which I found on both blocks.
My CAM bridge screen blew out a long time ago. Didnt see the debris anywhere, but I cleaned and checked my balance shaft screens and I left the new screen on the bridge and will check it later cause if the debris is still in the engine I want the screen to catch it. Wish I replaced my shafts when I inspected them with newer updated ones
This is the example of a perfect explanation about b8 low oil pressure issues. Great work, i love this car cuz its so good and i hate this car bcoz of low oil pressure issues!
@@ETMotorsports my problem still persist. Can you please read my problem now? A month ago i had an issue with low oil pressure when the OIL Temp reaches to 90c. We have replaced HPFP and oil pump ( from junkyard ) and now i have an low oil pressure issue even car is not warmed up around 60c of oil temp. After this, we have replaced balance shafts, bridge, control valve. Problem is still persist. What to do next? Put the benzin into the car and fire it up?
im having exactly the same issues, replaced everything possible, now going the route of this video to see if this is the cause, on opening it all up i have the mesh broken like in the video but no trace of damage to the other parts. all new parts including bridge and mesh and will be putting it back together soon so fingers crossed or ill be in the same position. I could have bought 2 brand new engines at this point
@@ETMotorsports on doing full timing chain replacement as I thought my issue would be that but came a cross the bridge issue with hardly any mesh left, digging into the adjuster wheel tomorrow once I get the tool just to check for any further damage
@@ETMotorsports I've got a new bridge housing, just in case it's scored, just debating weather to put it in with or without the mesh as I've seen people taking them out for that reason, mine has happened with only 27k on the clock so I don't fancy having to re do it again in 20k
I have had issues with oil pressure but I have a volkswagon 2.0L turbo CBFA engine. So I figured that maybe it might be my oil is getting too hot and the viscosity was making it trip the oil sending unit that there was bad pressure. Turns out my oil cooler was bad when I blew into it, barely any air went through, and you could hear that it was struggling to get through. And after I changed it, I haven’t had oil pressure problems since. Unless my oil is too low and I’m going around the turn😂
do you know what happened to the cooler? The passages are very big - I have a hard time imagining that they got clogged so unless it somehow collapsed structurally it should work ok?
Hi Dude, Im from Mexico, I have a Seat Leon FR TFSI 1.8 T 2014 model 110 k kms, with the same problem since NOvember 2022, yes, more than 1 year, "low oil pression, many sync codes, I passed for 4 mechanical and nothing, I have already change, oil pump, oil sensors, the oil case filter with the piece that has de o-rings, all timing chain kit, check teh VVT´s, replace the camshaft bridge screen, they found a piston ring issue at the same time the all internal motor components was checked "I supossed" , I have already change it, as you can see, almost the same that you had with you Audi.....after many minutes or when the temperature is for the normal operation the Low pression message appears....it has not sync codes.. just the oil... Until today with this video, I think, I hope see the light at the end of tunnel.... I sent this video to my mechanical and I hope with this very clear explanation my car came out from the "dark side".... much money to send it to trash... I dont give up...yet... regards...
in my case the problem (very persistent oil pressure warning on idle sometimes with miss fire on all cylinders but not always) was dirty vvt adjuster/magnet! Litle bit of parts cleaner sprayed in each hole and problem is solved!!!
Im no where near a mechanic and i took the water pump out in about 15mins no problem...you must have tryed to short cut by not removing certain parts like the coolant tank... which gives you much more space and visibility while in there...
Got a 2012 Audi A4 1.8 TFSI with absolutely calm and smooth running engine but still have a problem of DTC P164D reduced oil pressure. Plz share your experience. Have replaced all 3 oil switches. Thanks
@ETMotorsports Just tore down my 2.0t my engine is transverse so i had to remove the serpentine belt tensioner and just pulled the whole oil filter housing. After changing camshaft and putting everything back together i decided to change oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets even tho they looked fine. Took off the oil cooler and it was completely clogged with rock hard sediment.. my theory is clogged oil cooler lets oil temperature get too hot and the oil thins out when the motor warms up and then you lose oil pressure.. but that wasnt the issue. Still have problems. I have great oil pressure when engine is cold. Pressure drops to ZERO when the car warms up. The car runs great if the red oil pressure light diddnt pop you wouldnt know there was an issue. Ive changed the camshaft all timing components. Oil pump. Bridge. Only thing i haven't changed was balance shafts. They had no wobble and were not siezed everything seemed fine so i left them. Just dont know where to go from here. Its like when the car warms up it just goes to shit.. debating on putting a very thick oil in to see if i lose pressure when it warms up.. EDIT: OK GAVE IT GAS HARD WITH pressure guage attached had about 40psi when I hit 3800rpm and it stayed above 30psi for about 10 minutes after I shut down the car. I can Rev the car as high as I want in park and no oil pressure light soon as I go into drive and get above 1500 rmp it trips. Light Won't trip in neutral or park. Only when in gear?
I only diss agree with you on the part where you say don’t by one. Because these with the right CODE equipment these are super easy to work on the hardest thing I see and I’m doing it now is getting to things on the front but now that I know I can pull the car front away simple wirk
hahaha I own like 6 Audis...I would continue to buy them because I can work on them and save thousands while driving very nice cars...BUT if I had to recommend a car to a friend who wasn't able to maintain his own car I would never recommend the 2.0T period...
The b8 if the most beautiful and flawed of any audi the might 2.0t engine has been a headache so far for me hopefully my car get fixed soon and be back on the road asap
Hello from South of France in Provence. Brilliant video : I've watch it as a triller. These engines have great performance but at the cost of too much sophistication that beings to weaknesses. I have one of thoses : the 1.8 TSI EA888 BZB gen 1 in my Passat CC 2008. I studied your video because I suspect that I have an oil presure / volume issue on my vacuum pump as the oil is doing the sealing in the pump. This pump is "protected" by the little screen you have shown (full of debrits in your video - I d'ont knowm for my engine). The symptom : I have a poor brake assistance at idlle or very low RPM (around 1000). I can have braking assistance the first time but if I brake several times, quickly I loose the assistance. I was wondering I may have a clogged filter as in your video at the level of the vacuum pump. At the begining, I changed the vacuum pump but I have the same problem with the new one. I have mesured the depression but the figures seems to be in the spec. The car have only 130 000 km/80 000 miles and had 5w30 norm 504.00 oil change every year/less than 10 000 km/6 200 miles. Essentialy motorway for long distances (my wife and I have 5 cars). Any idea of a relation between oil pressure/ clogged filters/vacuum pump ? Best, Olivier
Hey Olivier, I don't think oil pressure will cause issues with your vacuum... the symptoms you describe point to a vacuum leak between the pump and the brake assist or a leaking diaphragm inside the assist...
Hi, really great video and all your explanations are clear. I really loves audi, I have old 1.8t 1996 and I`m really happy with that car. I was thinking to get newer model, but since I watched your video i have many doubts about this car. Do you still drive the audi and how it is perform after this repair ?
Thanks! Oh man I miss my 1.8T B5!!! The newer models are much more comfortable but you can't beat the reliability of the 1.8t...I sold the B8 after fixing it
Awesome Video !!! Best I have seen …. good job. Makes you wonder exactly where the oil was being constricted and also what definitive “ Thing “ you did that actually fixed it. I have the same motor in a 2010 Passat and the plastic sheath that surrounds the balance shaft disintegrated and clogged the oil cooler thus causing major oil pressure issues. Now I am having misfire issues and compression issues. 90 psi on cyl 2 and it passed wet compression but it’s not losing coolant. Valve job I am thinking maybe it needs new cams
Eek... sorry to hear about your issues...90psi is pretty low but unless you lost timing it seems unlikely that you need to do valves... have you seen my oil burning video? Is it possible a compression ring is stuck? Maybe a piston soak? I just cured two 2.0Ts with that
Honestly it's pretty easy - you've got a couple of screws in the wheel wells and a couple of bolts holding the bumper, after that you put the rad support in service position... that's it... on these cars you can put much detach the left side and pull it away like a door as long as it's supported so you can free up more space but watch out for the AC and coolant lines on the right side
Very nice! Good job! Luckily my problem was only the oil pump. Will inspect the cam adjuster valve and vacuum pump though, since they engine is not idling smooth enough to my liking. And the clutch+2mf need to be replaced after +/- 230k
@@ETMotorsports No codes except for cat below efficiency, but it's also consuming oil. Was rebuilt at 104k by Audi, compression is 150-ish psi. Did maintenance at least once per year, all filters Mann or Bosch and Amsoil, only doing daily highway trips. Swapped the throttle body as this was causing the not completely smooth idling withy A4 B6 1.8t at the time. But this didn't fix the problem. Oh, and I replaced the pcv already including all hoses. The vacuum pump gasket has to be renewed anyway as it's spilling some oil.
This video was really helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to dig all the way into the problem and report your findings. Thankfully I haven't had any low pressure issues, but I'm not making second-stage pressure at 3700 and it's putting my '12 Q5 in limp mode. Timing chain and pistons replaced by dealer at 75k for oil consumption. Ross-Tech says chain less than 1 degree off so i don't think that's the problem. Replaced high and low pressure senders, master CV. No love. Have noticable vibration at idle. I'm thinking my balance shaft screens are partially clogged and have starved the shafts, causing scoring etc. Also prevents making second stage pressure. Also 167k so it's probably time to replace then anyway. Thanks again for the video. Feel more confident than ever I've got this diagnosed properly. Time to start ordering parts. 💸💸💸
Sounds like you've got a fun task ahead of you... the vibration aside though I'm wondering if there is another issue causing the second stage oil pressure... the balance shafts shouldn't affect that - maybe regulator or the pump?
@@ETMotorsports Yeah, I think you're right. Need to get an oil pressure gauge there on the high pressure switch port and monitor it versus expected. (This is fault P164B of you're playing along at home. Second stage pressure not met, and it's the "permissive" to engage VVT)
Your problem has to deal with fluidity being reduced before the oil pressure sensor by the back up coming from the balance shafts. You fail to understand the pressure is backing up PAST the oil pressure sensor thus slowing the fluidity towards it. This gives you a low oil pressure reading. GREAT VID! Keep it up!! Always use all screens provided by Audi.
So what will cause the back up? There were no blockages on the balance saft oil ports? And even if there were the situation should only end up to hydrostatig situation. There should be no oil backing up? What could push the oil back?
@@samituomisto106 these engines are of high tolerance. Great for performance. If the engine is overheated, the oil gets thick at the bottom. As it gets thicker the oil towards the top gets progressive thinner. We can't race these engines hot and expect no immediate change viscosity. Got to change the oil more frequent than they advise and anytime the engine has been racing
@@DZIREDYNAMIC I have rebuild few have had them on Audi and VW solutions and few previous EA113 on Audi TTS and Skoda Octavia RS. Never race them properly and had no issues with quality oils like Castrol. Here in Finland the extreme gold temperatures in winter times are greater proplem than overheating. Great engines specially gen3 high output models Golf R etc. Some weaknesses but all modern engines seems to have them...
@@samituomisto106 here in the US, the culture is to drive to a 10min oil change shop and get cheap oil such as Penzoil. That minimizes the lag time between changes and doesn't allow for racing. The cold temperatures will not help with the thickening at the bottom because this is where it is HOTTEST in the engine. Thermal Breakdown Carbon Build-up. You are right about Castrol.
Excelente video, un saludo desde Colombia, me vi todos y cada uno de los videos relacionados con la búsqueda de la solución del problema y de verdad que fue muy emocionante, muchas felicitaciones eres un gran técnico, muchas gracias por compartir esta información con todos!
Thanks for the video! I learned a lot and you earned a new subscriber. Hope you dont mind me bombarding you with questions but you know this engine very well. Maybe you could help me track down a hopefull small issue im having too?? Do you know any tricks for keeping the covers sealed? What rtv do you use for each of them? Looked like red rtv on the cam cover? I used dirko grey on my cam cover last time. Held up for about a year but I city drive 200 miles a day in a stage 3 mk6 gti. Ccta Do you add rtv to the upper timing cover with the gasket? I suspect mine is leaking again but it could be the oring inside the cam bridge.. My car doesn't throw any codes but I do get an Intermittent "engine off now or die" message. Took the oil pressure sensor out and cleaned it with mass air flow cleaner and still see the message. My polar fis showed speratic oil temps pre cleaning of the sensor and post clean seemed to solve the speratic temps. I'm going to do an oil pressure test next and change the oil to inspect for metal or plastic. On a cold start i hear a bit more than usual ticking sound, sounds like down by the oil pump maybe. It goes away after a minute or 2. I'm also noticing my catch can is filling up much faster than usual. Similarly to when my rear main seal went out... It doesn't misfire.
@NiTeCProductions Is the anaerobic sealant any good? I'm planning on resealing it soon. I was going to use "the right stuff" black but would love to never see a leak again. :) I did an oil pressure test today and looks like oil pressure is good. 2000 rpm was at 20-25 psi; 3000 rpm, 30 -35, 4000, 40-45. I think I got lucky and its just the pressure switch. Im going to baby the throttle and hold off on the oil change for a few days to see if the engine off now message comes back. Didn't hear the cold start ticking sound today either. If I hear that again, I'll drain and inpect the oil.
Good vid. I didn’t have time to watch it all but noticed at the end you drove the car and said the oil warnings were gone. Did you ever measure the actual oil pressure before and after with a gauge? Would have been really curious to see that. I have a completely rebuilt engine that I have been driving for 10k km now, and on my trip down to Florida a few days ago driving in 30deg c weather on the highway, got off highway and came to an abrupt stop and the oil pressure warning light came on. First time I’ve ever seen it. Hooked up a mechanical gauge and hot idle oil pressure is really bad, like 8psi. As soon as you even touch the gas pedal it jumps to 20 and driving around it is perfectly normal at 25-28psi. The second stage is also working as normal around 3200rpm. I took my cam bridge screen out during the rebuild, and cleaned all screens on balance shafts and fuel pump. Trying to decide what to do next.
Hmm...I never measured the pressure with a gauge... your problem sounds interesting though - you can get the pressure specs for the two stages and compare... could be an oil pump or dirty pickup
@@ETMotorsports Yeah I have the specs from the manual. Not sure. I just had the oil pan off to replace the oil pan and the pump screen was clean. Since full rebuild I only ran full synthetic 5w40, 7000km changes. I have the tool to remove the intake camshaft adjuster so I’ll check it tomorrow. I cut open my oil filter today and it was clean inside 🫤 good but at the same time I have a bad feeling it will be deeper in the engine
@@ETMotorsports No not all the time. The first time I was doing 85 mph on the highway in 85F weather for a few hours then got off the highway abruptly on the off ramp and stopped at a light not long after. Light came on...I shut car off as quickly as possible in a parking lot nearby. Checked the oil level and that nothing was leaking...checked with VAG COM (had laptop with me) and it said sporadic/intermittent signal from oil pressure sensor. I restarted car, no more oil light. Idled more at a gas station and then drove another 350 miles on the highway in similar conditions. Got off highway again and it did the same thing. This time I didn't stop as I was getting back on the highway...it didn't come on again on the rest of my trip. At home I never do this kind of driving in this heat, so I thought it might be because of the heat. But it coming on twice in one trip is worrying. I haven't ran the car since as I have been trying to diagnose it while I'm on my trip in Florida as I don't need the car as much. Only time I ran it was with the oil pressure gauge connected so I didn't have the sensor in the oil port (thus no warning on the dash)
My 2012 VW GTI oil low pressure light off and on all time , so I order Esc tuning Oil pump kits , replacement oil pump then. I drive all round Austin city plus traffic. No more oil low pressure light on yaya Thank God. My engine is ok now.
I've got a 2009 Audi A4. My issue is a low oil level warning light. I've replaced the balance shafts and timing chains ,guides ,tensioner, oil pump and all the sensors. The car runs good but dies once in a while and I still have the light beeping saying to stop engine and check oil level. Any suggestions?
Screens are designed for viscocity chosen.....a choice of thicker viscocity...I've heard people remove screens.....however...I don't know if screens failed....in this incident...
@@ETMotorsports today i just finished replacing my camshaft, indeed after many "mechanics" trying to fix the noise and low oil pressure, i just escaped that rattle nightmare sound. I've seen alot of people trying to solve this problem but most of them stop at the intake camshaft for some reason, stating as oil pressure drop is caused by stuck oil passage...
@@morpheus232001 not really. When i took out the camshaft there was actually verry little play in the phaser , at first glance you could say it was a perfectly good camshaft phaser. The only noise in the area was the loose chain hitting the plastic cover ( i have a video on my channel for reference) . But went on and changed it and all problems disapeared including restored oil pressure.
Great.. Apreciate your getting back to me.. So the best thing will be to find a decent used.. One with that phase not too wore out...? Or buy a new cam.. Thank you again
Hi, I have an audi A5 2.0 tfsi quattro and the revs drop occasionally when driving and the stop start kicks in at odd times. I have 2 engine codes, p032200 and p008800. After some reading in thinking it's the crank shaft position sensor but I was wondering what your thoughts would be. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated pls 🙏
Hi, thanks for this video. I have a similar problem. TSI 2.0 280HP EA8883b Oil pressure indicator at IDLE - ONLY when oil temperature at range: 70-90 degrees Celsius. When the engine warms up - everything is OK. Replaced - Intake camshaft, pump pressure valve, piston cooling valve, new oil and filter with plastik valve. I'm starting to suspect electronics - I will be grateful for any hint.
@@ETMotorsports I put the oil popup into high pressure mode in the ECU via VCDS. The problem has only occurred once so far. So much less often. I'm waiting for the mechanic to remove the oil pan and check the condition of the pump - we bet it will need to be replaced.
Thanks so much for the video bro I’m having issues with low oil pressure in my EPC light is coming on I’m going to start off by replacing the sensors if not I might have to replace the cam. Thanks for this video.
@@ETMotorsports Yeah it’s coming on around the same RPM that yours is coming on but once I cycle the key off back on it goes away then the low boil pressure comes back on. Once the car warms up it doesn’t do it as much
@@melvinlirkland2616 Yeah I replaced my oil pump a month ago and found metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan. I have no rod knock at all so now I’m wondering if it’s the Cambridge
@@johnnycruz7133 I have the same exact symptoms, runs fine when cold, plenty of power all good until the engine warms up and it shuts itself sounding like a diesel. I tore the engine out thinking it was rod or main bearings, balance shafts or camshafts. To my surprise EVERYTHING is in perfect condition, camshafts, balance shafts, guides, timing chain, rods and main bearings. Before tearing the engine apart (after doing a complete rebuild)I replaced the oil pump, Cambridge, cam magnet, cleaned injectors, ported the cylinder head w new valves and guides, new oil pressure sensor, cam solenoid, also crankshaft position sensor. I installed new waffle rings, new head gasket, rear main seal, oversize pistons, everything is new on the engine, besides the camshafts and balance shafts that were from a parts engine a mechanic took the short block for a build. I had the crank specked at a machine shop, all within tolerances. All screens removed, no debris or contamination, the block was cleaned at the shop, and after all that work I still get the low oil pressure. Bought again, new bearings, gaskets, new balance shafts and camshafts, I am about to start re-assembling everything back again. After all the above from the rebuild, the check engine light comes on for low oil pressure and the dreaded EPC, so I also bought a new manifold which I am about to install.
@@mazpr2025 Hello, I am the same as you, with a 2009 Audi A4, 2.0 engine, now they have told me that under the oil filter there is a valve that has 2 rubber washers that wear out and give this error, I will have to try it.
please help im trying to remove the balance shafts and the exhaust side will not budge. i have a slide hammer on it and it will not come out. does the shaft have to be orientated a certain way? and how is the intake side balance shaft connected do the waterpump? do i just remove the waterpump and the balance shaft should pop out?
I had major issues with my EA888 engine on a VW GTI. VAG make the crappiest engines in the world. I will never buy any VAG product ever again after my horrible experience.
Haha like you said it’s good for buying cheap cars and bad for normal consumers. I’m enjoying driving my q5 a5 and a4 all acquired for Peanuts - instead of fixing the engines I just grab engines from crashed cars and huck them in (can do dealer lookup of vin to see service history)
Hi, THANKS for this video. IT teach me a lot. I have some question. I have rattle sound but no light signal of low presure. What do you recomend me to look, or what components I should start to check. I think I have same issue with low oil presure. I have rough idle after warm up. THANKS
Are these similar or the same as the EA888 series engines? I've got a second gen EA888 with slightly low oil pressure only at idle plus timing being off and I've heard this can be due to worn intake camshaft...
Thanks for the video! Im searching for a year a oil pressure problem on my car, will change some parts... I only get pressure issue when the engine is warm, any help to start with? Thanks!
My CDAA engine had low oil pressure at idle (warm engine above 88 degree C). Isn't possible I had similar issue with the VVT? I plan to run VCDS by using 091 measuring block to confirm it, isn't a good idea?
@@ETMotorsports I ran VCDS and yes my cam phaser reading is haywire. My interpretation from the engine lubrication diagram, the culprit should be from bearing bridge until cam phaser. I might be wrong. Like you, I did change a lot of parts already. I changed oil pump, pressure regulating valve, oil filter retaining post, oil filter, oil pressure switch and engine oil but the problem still persist until now. From your video I think I understand that if the vane inside the cam phaser weared out, the oil flow will pass the weared out gap(especially when hot-thin oil) and enter to the other side of the vane created high pressure inside the cam phaser. Inside the cam bridge and cylinder head have a non-return valve for each of them. So the high pressure build-up oil in cam phaser will not return to the bottom side for the pressure switch to take the high-pressure reading but the oil will out through a hole at intake camshaft near the cam phaser. Sometimes I got EPC light during hard acceleration at around 4000RPM. My car mileage now at 240,000km++ approximate around 150,000 miles. Thanks for the video.
I've got a second gen EA888 CDAA in a Skoda with the same low oil pressure only at idle problem. My timing is also off in the wrong direction +13*. Did you ever fix your problem?
I got a 2013 CPMA that has had oil pressure switch, control valve, camshaft adjustment bridge and oil pump replaced, but still getting a pretty consistent low oil pressure warning when hot, only at idle. You think balance shafts maybe?
hey do you have any codes? do you get the EPC light? I talk about it on the video - I personally can't understand how the balance shafts would cause a low oil pressure issue...they can cause issues for sure but I`m not sure low oil pressure is one of them...
Does anyone know why Audi was putting oil screens in different parts of the motor instead of relying on the oil filter? Why not add a second oil filter or oil bypass sensor instead?
I am also getting same issue what is normal temperature of engine oil I have vw passat tsi 1.8 manual transmission getting issues while driving car after 20 to 30 mins engine oil temperature goes 124 degrees C" after that car getting error ' Check Engine service now ' then engine off automatically and goes into safe mode then we had scan the error has come ' cam Shaft position sensor range performance P0341' after one hour car start normally plz suggest ur experience about this fault ...
please iam not perfect in.english language plz tell me what the man said about this fault i mean whats the thing make balance shaft to seized plzzz replay whats parts
Did you clock the intake balancer?.....the three indented dots are supposed to group together to properly situate the weighted side of the balancer.....
@@ETMotorsports Oh okay. Couldn't tell when in ffwd. Great videos...I don't know how you guys have the time to do this stuff. Mine seized and here I am...a little too late.
Dude, I'm an audi mechanic by trade and this gave me a deeper understanding of these engines. Great video.
You must be busy
Can you tell me where the second oil pressure sensor is located? One it’s on the oil filter housing but I can’t find the second one 😢
@Garajul fara GARAJ dont waste your time if you have a red oil light..its not a sensor!!
@@coryjackson6034 Meanwhile I checked the oil pressure with a gauge and it’s at the lower limit while idling, I will check the cams soon
@garajulfaragaraj6706 i truly believe its the balance shafts...did you ever get to the bottom of it?
It's three years from when you made this video and I want to say it is still very relevant. I appreciate that you ask the question as you go through your process in a very thoughtful way. Great work
Thank you
🔥
thanks for the kind words!
I was working on my wife’s Audi 2.0t, when I say working on it I mean trying to find the 1/4 ratchet and socket that lodged itself under the car somewhere. I was listening to the video without watching the video. I pulled up the video and I see the bumper is removed (I heard him say that) but I also see the right fender is gone!!?!! It’s going to the local import shop tomorrow, I’m not even going to try deal with everything this MAN has done so far. 3 hour water pump?? WTF? I’ll do what I’m good at and my highly skilled technicians can figure out why her car has oil light blinking and a little bit of a loud upper engine. Evidence of someone else being in as deep as missing body and engine parts. I’m tappin’ out!
God Bless you sir for what you got yourself into.
This has to be the absolute best video on this or ANY mechanical subject .....
A full , careful component by component approach into investigating each part for the failure culprit ....
A constant state of proactive thinking through the start to finish process .....
A conclusion assessment segment of the failure process , to be able to learn from this ..... and to be able to assess further identical engines in the future .
A top tier video .
I am a certified heavy vehicle specialist ... all trades could benefit with video production like this in their training segments .
Thanks for the comments!
@@ETMotorsportsall new or old cars, which do not come fitted with an oil pressure gauge, should be fitted with an oil pressure sender and it's wiring routed to a pressure gauge on top of the dashboard.
At 750rpm and as my engine coolant temperature gradually gets to 195 degree F the oil pressure can dropped from as high as 4+bar to about 1barg. At 80 to 82F oil is at 1.5barg.
At 200 to 2002F and on a stop-go-stop-go traffic on a very hot day oil pressure could drop to 0.8 to 0.7bar. Oil is 5W40. Put to neutral the rpm jumps to 850 and oil at 1.5bar.
At 2000rpm oil is good at 3barg. At 3000 rpm it is not less than 4.5barg.
Oil pressure at lowest idling rpm needs to be at least 1bar at the hottest day?. Thanks
Bought an 2011 a4 thinking it was the starter. Long story short, intake balance shaft is seized. This video is awesome. Thank you!
Glad it helped
This video and part one helped me fix my sons car! We got lucky and only had to replace the cam bridge. Previous screen and support ring had broken and clogged the blades behind the intake cam end cover. Also, metal was on the intake screen on the vacuum pump. Cleaned that out and replaced. All codes gone and doesn’t hesitate, stall, no more long crank or EPC light. Thanks!
On the Audi workshop manual there is a mention that the balance shafts should not be put in their place by any force. If force is used the aluminium sealing surface of the saft (the edge part of aluminium part whese the sceens are) can damage and couse oil leaking between the block and the balance saft sealing surface. The workshop advises to put the safts to cold (like -20 degrees of celcius/30min) before the installation. I can not see any else low oil pressure problem that could be balance shafts related.
Ps: Great job and info! Cheers from Finland!
This is an incredible video!! I'm blown away with your thoroughness and patience, you should have become a neurosurgeon or something. All the best
@pisquared1366 thanks for the kind words!
@@ETMotorsports You earned these kinds words by a mile. Indeed, a love/hate relationship with these german cars (at the back of my mind I'm thinking it's time for a switch to a Honda, I'll be honest). My son's 2011 GTi had the exact same issues, only more dicey as he was on a 900mi road trip and every time he'd hit a slow traffic (aka substantial deceleration and RPM drop), light would come on and car would shut down. He tried to avoid stop/go and he made it. So we'll cut to the chase and go for a cam replacement straightaway. The replacement of the VVTi solenoid/magnet didn't do much.
Great Video! You are completely right. People must understand that an pump is doing volume not pressure. The pressure is done by limiting volume. The engine has a lot of passages that are creating pressure, the play between the engine bearings, everything is done in such way to hold or create pressure. This is the first thing that everyone has to know when messing with pressures. just an observation: the engine has 2 large oil circuits, 1 head circuit and 2nd is the bottom end. If one of those circuits is not able to hold pressure the other one will suffer. So if the bottom end is loosing pressure you will have tappet noise and if the head circuit is loosing pressure it is very possible that in short time the engine bearings or something from the bottom end to be destroyed.
So if I have that tapper sound it’s most likely the oil pump?
This oil pump has a piston that slides a gear, to change the volume of oil in these engines depending on rpm, so as this pump increases and decreases volume it changes the oil pressure in the engine. The larger the volume, the greater the pressure. If the pump is not changing volume properly, you will get an oil pressure light, because the system is expecting a certain pressure, and not reading said pressure.
YES... BUT, consider that this oil pump seems to have a VARIABLE volume feature, which add to the complexity and also adds another Point-of-Failure: the pump's own variable volume mechanism!
"Modern" engine designers have gone too far in quest for higher fuel efficiency, and therefore have created more "Points-of-Failure"...
They have also made stoopid decisions, like (ab)using the use of plastics!: it appears to me that those little "oil screens" are very stoopid!, because, first, those desintegrate by heat and the idiotic "eco-phanatic" obsession with using "biodegradable" plastics that just don't endure the under hood temperatures of automobile engines; and second, it is completely RIDICULOUS to install any "oil screen" that has a way much larger particle size filtering than the paper oil filter, but will release metal wire screen pieces and plastic bits inside the engine... those little "screens" seem to me as dumb as the old saying: "Stupid does, as stupid is" !
I still have a perfectly running OLD, 1991 vintage Dodge Spirit R/T Turbo with the 2.5L Four cyl engine, and the only attention its Balance shafts have required, was to readjust the METAL chain tensioner that rotates them!
Nice to see a fellow iron ring holder who likes to get his hands dirty! Keep up the great work
Another observation after I saw the previous video when you first opened the camshaft phaser. When the driver hits the gas pedal WOT the ECU is opening or closing the camshaft phaser for power and high flow of oil is sent inside the phaser and this is smashing the plunger to the walls creating contact points. This is creating wear on both sides which in the end is creating gaps where the oil can escape creating oil pressure loss. This gaps together with oil thinning at high temperature is reducing pressure. In my country (tested by me also using oil pressure gauges) most of engine rebuilders, tuners is recommending 5w50 or 10w60 just because this engine oils are better at high temperatures. Audi/VW on their EA113 and EA888 engines recommended 5w30 which is too thin at high temperatures. I would recommend you also to use the pressure gauge to know exactly what pressure do you have when you are doing diagnosis and after repair.
exactly my thoughts
Also it is very good to put some oil additive for e.g. Liqui Moly ceratec, which is used to make protective film over the metal surfaces. Very good practice for maintaining those engines.
i have a 2013 a4 with 205k miles and have been running mobile 15w50 since 50k my audi mechanic swears by it i have had only one major issue which was rear main seal at 198k other than that she runs like the day i drove her off the lot no leaks no dash lights no codes so i agree the thicker the better with these engines
A balance must be found between fuel economy (fluid oil) and the benefits of viscosity (thicker oil). As a major part of the wear of the engine is during starting, thicker oil take more time to lubricate all parts of the engine and can open the by-pass valves (like in the oil filter) so creating more wear than fluid oil. Too fluid oils are not a solution also. Usualy serious engine makers give the proper viscosity for their applications@@REfanforlife
Hi Emilio! Grate job mate! I'm so happy that you shared this video, I think you are the first and the only one so far, who shared the solution for "Low Oil Pressure" issue. I was looking very carefully to the video, and I think you have done very well keeping the oil screens (although a lot of other YT videos suggests it is better to remove them), because in my opinion the entire setup of the oil scheme it's calibrated with those screens on (they have some resistance which is affecting the oil pressure thresholds). Of course, if those oil screens gets clogged they are not affecting only the oil pressure thresholds (low, high) but also the lubrication of the upstream parts ending up to have damaged camshafts, cam bridge, intake camshaft timing adjuster, balance shafts which needs to be replaced in the end. I reviewed the first video you made on this subject, and when you presented the intake camshaft timing adjuster, actually it could be observed those 5 stoppers walls that do not have same shape and also those 3 affected plungers. Is it possible having that wear in the intake camshaft timing adjuster (plungers and intake wheel), when the engine runs on idle, the adjustment angle to be over/sub passed with 0.5-1 degree which could lead to this issue? Or maybe the wear of the adjuster plungers just makes the intake adjuster to get stuck only at low oil pressure and gets released immediately after increasing a little the revs from 850 to 950 rpm and thus the oil pressure (actually, this is the behavior on my Audi when the oil gets around ~100C). Anyway, when I will take the decision to get rid of this issue, definitely I will take your videos as reference and lead the troubleshooting based on what you did. Thank you again, and waiting news about the car, how it works in time if you will not sell it till then! :) Best Regards, Iulian
Did you ever resolve this issue, as I'm have the same issue on my car, pressure drops on hot idle only.
Watched this video years ago. Watching again. Plan to do my cam bridge and vvt valve.
I did timing chains back in 2019.
I think the low oil pressure light is an indication of the oil pressure control valve, a check valve, and or more than likely the low oil pressure switch has gotten dirty.
@ModernMillwright I wish it was that easy... hopefully yours is... that's where I started with mine and it's the easiest step... changing the oil pump I think is the hardest maybe so maybe exhaust all other options forest
There are bulletins from vw saying to remove the screens. If there is an orifice hole that regulates oil pressure do not remove but the actual screens you can remove
My argument on what you saying from 43 min about oil pressure being measured before and balance shaft being on the lower end of the engine would be tolerance in either crankshaft main bearings and bigends bearings including balance shafts would affect oil pressure for the entire system irregardless of how the components are located before and after oil being measured all these parts contribute to the oil irrespective of their positioning. Great video though I am learning appreciate transparency and reasoning behind and beyond just throwing parts in.
Cam phaser does not causing low oil pressure issues, but low oil pressure issues causing cam phasing issues and also cam phaser wear. On that engines oil pump could cause that kind of problems. Uneven wear of phaser vanes are common on all those EA888 gen2 engines because of design of this sprocket housing, not wear. We are opened completely new cam phaser and desing is uneven. I have recently changed that vanes on my Mk6 GTI, because VVT was little bit noisy and has diesel like noise, but oil pressure is ok. Vanes wear was predominant when cam is phased in end position and when timing chain wear is significant. If you want less phaser wear, change timing chain and also fill up the oil. Low oil could also cause phaser wear.
Just watched your oil pressure video I have gone through this the problem was the balance shaft. You mentioned wear on the balance shaft bearing you could see through the oil hole this indicates worn balance shaft bearing causing the oil to go back to the pan it needs to have tight tolerances to hold oil pressure. I cut mine open and saw a badly worn bearing. In my case I deleted the balance shafts and installed an electric water pump as I was building a performance car. Check those balance shafts.
Hmm, deleted the shafts and el water pump? I'd love to see that - sounds like an awesome build... yeah I replaced the shafts
I was one of those buyers and the car had the oil pressure light. The car ran fine, had compression, no knock so the seller knocked off a couple of a hundred stating it was possibly the sensor.
I just went through all your same troubleshooting, but have not done the cams yet.
The intake camshaft journals and runners are badly scored. I pulled the cylinder head out, piston oil rings need to he replaced, piston cylinder walls are also scratched, literally a junk engine. But the car cosmetically looks phenomenal.
I got burned on the sale, I either hands on and do a complete overhaul or slap everything back and tell the new buyer the same I was told and pass forward this lemon of a car.
Yes its a lemon car ! i remember when i entered the USA after i was working on air cooled engines on vw those engines had bearing shells at ea journal ! Was well built ! My 2015 vw jetta 1.8 has same problem like exualy bent valves and i replaced those than after i opened up the timing chain area suprisley i deednt see problem that could it had coused the falier of engine so i ordered the timing chain kit and the gasket set i I opened up bottom part of the engine i inspected rod bearing and put it back cover i found not much dirt in site , i figured oil pump was ok since i spin pump gear and delivered oil in engine .I cleaned all wholes and anewhere with air and i put it together yesterday i started up run fine but yelow and red oil lite came on in cluster i figured i need to scan / delate the codes and will go away , in mean time i was lookingfore my pressure gage that i could not found so today on you tube i was wached Emilios video and got to the point where i had to make a new tour in my engine i hat to doo but no choice other than pull a part the engine at Balance shaft area even doh my cam bridge had not even a hole for sceren i think the camshaft is my problem that was little stucky according to my 3 vw i worked on before . I like the video Emilio was talking on in the video he upload and i am thankful for it ! So At list i got some leeds to think and go forwald to get the job done ! Oh i was thinking to get a used cilinder head from E Bay that has better journals than on camshafts oh and I used girt 400 sand paper to smootened tham journals . I am very sad this day car makers make such lemonish " cars One more thing i almost forgot i put 6 liter oil and the stick shoved on bottom line on so i add 1 more litter and sowed right I wonder wgere the extra 1 liter ended up in the engine ! Maybe at between balance shaft and the black plastic sleeve ??? Aneyway what are you guys recomand what should i doo next to solve my oil lite issue ! I realy dont think the oil pressure sencer's will solve oil lit problem !
@@gabormoor9516 Follow up on my MK6 GTi, three pistons had cracked secondary rings, ring parts missing, and the oil control ring was clugged in carbonized oil. All the rod bearings were scored bad, flaked beyond recognition. I literamly have an expensive paperweight in my driveway.
I cannot believe this engine won engineering awards back when they were released back in 2009.
I need a new engine block and cylinder head. No shop wants to touch european cars, only imports and american muscle domestic cars. Called five shops, and none want to overbore the block. I have not taken out the crankshaft yet.
** remove all the oil screens, cam bridge, HPFP, balance shafts
I did not read replacing the rings!?
How much carbon buildup on pistons, valves, port bowls?
These engines, the OEM oil rings are beyond trash, is some kind of meshed flexible wire, not waffle type, they get clogged bad.
Update:
found a shop who overbored the block, am almost done with the build, new Ebay cylinder head, which now am doing port work as the runners did not have correct transition.
Am slapping everything back, cut my losses and sell the car.
Did u ever fix the issue?
@@famom9198 Tell me about it, yes and kind of no...
After I fixed it that I had no more check engine light, the intake balance shaft (water pump side) bearing seized out of nowhere, so I had to tear it down at least the timing cover side. Buy new genuine revised balance shafts ($700) and a new timing kit as some plastic pieces cracked and said F it and bought a new kit ($300).
It currently has a stage 1 from Integrated Engineering, running 15psi, modded intake airbox, catted downpipe (it helped a lot on bringing down engine bay temps) w a O2 simulator jic, w catback exhaust that replaced the mufflers w dual resonators.
It is running fine, no overheating, cel, it just passed state emissions w the tune installed.
*Lately it is giving me a low oil pressure light, it just started after an oil change, before I had Quaker full synthetic 5-30w and swapped to Penzoil same specs, and it looks like it does not like it on heavy traffic, and only happens light comes on and goes away on very bad hot heavy traffic. I dumped the oil and put now 10-40w conventional and the oil sensor light and the light has not come back.
JIC, I will be swapping soon the oil pump, easy weekend project.
I put two washers on each side of the hood supports to raise it a little and removed rhe rubber weather band near the firewall wipers to let heat out (water does not get in).
It has a turbo jacket, swapped to aftermarket charge pipes to help w flow.
I did get a bad pcv valve so I replaced that also w the oil sensor. I would remove the oil cap and wanted to fly out, luckily I caught it on time, weird is no lights or codes.
These cars are amazing, but one has to be on top of the game or it will bite back with hurting your wallet.
So I tore the engine out literally three times, first time was to fix the engine block, second one, bad camshafts, 3rd one bad balance shafts.
I see these cars on FB marketplace w 120k miles, and kids fall for it because they are deceiving.
But these cars the engine, transmission and parts have an around 100k expiration.
I replaced the following:
cylinder head
camshafts, cam bridge
water pump, oil pump
pistons w waffle oil rings and overbore the block
timing chain kit and cover
intake manifold
some injectors and injector kit
oil pan, new rod and main bearings
dsg flywheel
rear main seal
besides that, all four corners wheel bearings
*and now the inner roof liner is falling off and the radio is half ass working...
But you look atthe car from the outside and the interiors and looks nice, and I get complements all the time, is fast as f0k and chew sport civics, Kias and Hyundais for breakfast, the dsg sounds badass. I put sound deadeing material to tone down the drone and added an extra resonator to the main line after the cat (btw it is a lexus cat) not some cheap ebay dowbpipe, I custom made it.
Have a spare complete block cylindet head etc I am gonna rebuild and have as backup, but still thinking about it.
*thanks for asking, let me know if you have any questions*
Ive had it before on these motors where the balance shaft on the exhaust side sized and resulting in us needing to replace almost everything in the motor, the balance shafts sizing is a issue
I will say, that removing the intake manifold takes about 10 mins to take off, saving hours of headache trying to fight the water pump belt from underneath the intake manifold.. I've done it enough times now that it's just so much less headache to yank the intake off.
@@ETMotorsports Agreed. Was just more so for future viewers ;) We're actually chasing a low-oil issue on my buddy's 11 Tiguan, which is what led me here in the first place.
Hi nice to meet you, I myself have an oil pressure light issue on my stepson's Audi A4 B8 . I rebuilt it Due to a warp cylinder head.
Hi Emilio, I love your video and I've learned more by watching your video than most others I've watched combined.
My issues started 2 years ago when my Cambridge screen blew out, as a result of my PVC failing. I have noticed some ridges on the end of both Camshafts, but with minimal sanding I was able to lower the worst culprits; I replaced the Cambridge too. I was informed about the Cambridge screen failure by a mechanic at that time, but I'm not sure exactly what elements of the screen he recovered & removed, so I don't know what damage there may be. After I received his bill for just looking I decided to learn & fix myself. I know I've spent a lot of cash, but I've still saved so much by doing it myself. Plus I now have lots of lovely tools. 😁
I'm not going to go in to much more detail because my current symptoms are identical to yours and to other posters below. I too have replaced most of the parts you had, aside from the Pressure Control Valve, Balance Shafts and Intake Camshaft. When changing the Timing Chains a year ago, after I heard a loud internal scraping noise I discovered that my Balance Shaft Chain was simply hanging loose. I checked the Balance Shafts and they appeared to move freely, they weren't loose, but I could still turn them with my fingers while they were in-situ. I also had a separate oil problem as well as low oil pressure and I was not sure what or how but the top end was very noisy. So, I changed the oil pump & pick up & I found an oversized piece of black silicone poking out of one of the tiny channels on the bottom of the engine, which I suspect must have been left by the previous 'mechanic'; I couldn't believe it and I hate to think what damage it's caused. So, I removed the silicone, fitted the new Audi Oil Pump, put things together and ran it. although it is sounding so much better on the top of the engine now, my issue, as you describe it, still remains. My next job is to buy a new Intake Camshaft, 2 new Balance Shafts and go from there...
Can I ask what you used to prepare and clean the Cam Journals/Seats, especially the one at the back that had a little scouring? Did you use installation grease/paste for the Camshafts? Also, what sealant did you use for the Cam Cover & did you buy new bolts for the cover?
Again, thanks for the video, I can't thank you enough...! 😎
Paul.
Yes, it is very annoying to say the least...! 😄
Thanks for your advice, much appreciated and valued. I will be sure to do my best to get my engine working for the first time in 2 years... Lol
Thanks again,
Paul.
So did the oil pump fix your oil pressure issue? I have oil pressure low only when cruising. Top of engine is noisy.. p0341. I have already replaced my entire timing assembly and balance shaft. My next job is to replace intake cam and cambridge.. the damage resulted from my screen failing too.. but idk if the low oil pressure when hot is because of the damage.. or pump.
Either way do you reccomend upgrading the pump? Regardless im replacing intake cam.. and cambridge. My exaust cam is worn to but not nearly as bad as intake cam. Can i get away with sanding it like you said? Just the end so it rides better?
@@readylucas Hi... No, but it didn't hurt changing the old pump for a new one as the original one was very warn and rattling/clicking as it turned. There was a large blob of black silicone wedged in one of the ports at the top of the oil pump (thanks to the mechanic who last changed my chains! Never again!!!), which made a massive difference to the rattling noise on the top end, but removing it made no noticeable difference to the oil pressure.
After changing nearly all of the outer components of the engine, this final issue was simply the Intake Camshaft. I bit the bullet and bought a genuine camshaft and replaced it. I rebuilt the top of the engine carefully and correctly, not rushing, and it started first time, with no issues and has been fine since. I gave it a baptism by fire and just 2 days after the rebuild I took my son on a 1,000 mile round trip away and it was absolutely fine. In fact, it performed better than when I bought it...!
Upon my return I took the old camshaft apart to check with my own eyes, and I am not joking when I say that I am amazed it ever started or ran...!! It was so warn out that the fins wobbled in their seats with just a gentle touch. When I manually turned the VVT, all of the fins moved a further 3 or 4 millimetres further than they should, I kid you not. It was absolutely finished, more than finished...!!! (I'm trying not to swear/cuss)
A final note, now that I know my way around my engine (mostly), I have come to learn that most, if not all, of the 'mechanics' that had previously worked on my engine, they either had no clue what they were doing and/or didn't care and EVERYTHING that had been previously worked, it was not put back together correctly. The Timing Chain Cover was sealed correctly and silicone was oozing out externally and internally like it had been applied with a spoon. The Vacuum Pump, the one at the rear of the exhaust Camshaft, it's 3 ply Gasket was bent over on one corner and it was constantly leaking oil. The same pump had only 3 bolts fitted of the required 4, because one of the holes threads were stripped (I fixed with one of those aftermarket rethreading kits). The Valve/timing/rocker Cover was not seated correctly, thus allowing the camshafts to bend under load. Only the main timing chain had previously been changed & the Balance Shafts chain was actually completely hanging off. 😳 The list goes on! Seriously...
It's working well now and uses/loses/burns less than half the oil it did previously. Thanks Emilio for your video, it was a great help and I thank you from the bottom of my heart. 👍
@@vorlockfoss similar issue here was causing my oil pressure loss. Intake cam was worn to fuck all, I just looked at it and said fuck this didn't go as far as rebuild because I don't have the tools. Literally looked like the camshaft had been riding on sandpaper, shit still ran, ran rough and threw timing codes but it ran! Also it never ran low on oil in my possession. I believe what tore the intake cam to shred was a failed camshaft bridge screen, not completely sure but IT WAS missing!
Great video. I'm just replacing my balance shafts. The intake one seized. Caused engine to lock up. Balance shaft chain was stretchedto the limit and guides worn. Adjuster was not seating squarley on the guide and according to Naptown tuner this will cause loss of oil pressure. Now seeing your video I want to be sure that the balance shaft is getting enough oil. I think I will pop it out and blow air into the passage. I never had a low oil pressure condition until a shop replaced the breather box , remove an reinstall cam bridge . Oil light would come on when coming to a stop. If I bump up the throttle just as I stopped it would not come on. This would happen when hot. Then 60,000 miles later the balanceshaft seized. Also 60,000 mile ago a second shop replaced cam bridge, exhaust cam, rockers and lifters, and cam change cartridge. I also noticed that the new balance shafts dont have the groove machined into the rear bearing surface.
Eek... sounds like multiple issues compounding on this engine... hopefully you get it sorted out
It's the balance shafts most common issues
Fascinating analysis! I’m very surprised that the Passat intake camshaft has the exact same spec (lobe dimensions) as the Audi camshaft. I thought camshafts were very application specific.
The 2.0t is pretty much the same across the whole line... some differences in the turbo setup and mounting because of the longitudinal vs. transverse installation but that's about it... the Audi has a variable exhaust cam so that one you can't swap over but the intake cam is the same
@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the quick reply! I do agree that "the 2.0t is pretty much the same across the whole line", however... I have a 2013 VW Beetle Turbo and a 2014 VW GTI (both mk6, both with EA888 2.0t engines, gen 2 I think, and both with 6-speed DSG transmissions), and the GTI is quite noticeably faster. I'd always assumed that was because they gave the GTI a more aggressive camshaft. Looking at both engine bays, they are essentially identical. If it's not the camshaft which is causing the GTI to be much quicker, what do you think it might be? Genuinely curious. Cheers!
Thank you for the video, it helped me better understand the whole issue.I have 09 Audi A3 CCTA engine.Oil pressure light comes on only when the engine is at the operating temp and when I slow down.Highway driving nothing happens until I slow down and rpms go under 2000 . As soon as I speed up it disappears.Drives me crazy.
How did you fixed I've got the same problem ?? AUDI A4 2.0TFSI
@@stefanstoyanov6576 I didn’t do anything .I keep driving it like that. So far I did 30000 km, I just ignore the annoying beep.Vozim pa dok ide nek ide
Same I’ve got a 13 GLI CCTA
I've got the exact same problem. Been driving for about 10k with it with the exact same symptoms.... Has anybody figured out what our specific symptoms to point to?
Facts
Tremendous work you put in fixing this motor. You and naptown are legends in TFSI engines! Much appreciated!
As my piece of crap Audi displays EPC light, I might need to change the intake camshaft. Any chance you have a part number please?
Hmm I'll have to look it up - at least it's shared with VW so easy to find... the exhaust cam is Audi specific
@@ETMotorsports thank you 🙏
Amazing video I like working with this engines and had fixed a few. I learn a lot with your video. Thank you
It would be great if you could give a list of part numbers with those parts you've replaced
I hope you’re joking. I’m sure that would be very helpful but this guy has been through hell and back.
Thank you for taking the time to do this complete workup. I have a 2009 Audi A4 Quattro Avant auto trans. It is also throwing oil pressure codes and EPC light on at 1100 RPM and computer basically shuts engine off as expected timing vs actual is so far out of whack. Actually just started tearing down everything I can get done without putting front in service position. Car also now has a stuck fuel injector from sitting 😞 I might do my own video if I can resolve issue.
buy an injector puller, remover, Humblemechanic has a video on injector overhaul showing use of the tool.
*good luck buddy, these engines will take you to the dark alleys of frustration.
Working on them is like doing 15,000 pieces puzzle.
As of right now I have 2 heads sitting in my living room and 1 on my coffee table getting rebuilt, as well as a freshly rebuilt one I just installed on the block I rebuilt.ive almost wrapped up the motor but I can tell you on the two blocks I've dismantled, one of them had the black sleeve broken but the balance shaft still rotated fine. I've been chasing an epc light with the same exact issues. I too opened up the intake camshaft to verify everything was clean etc. Now you have me questioning the wear in there as I do not recall. I actually put it all back together and just installed it the other day. I personally don't see a reason that it cannot be a serviceable part as VAG states anything and everything needs to be replaced once removed which we know isn't always the case. Between red loctite and torquing each bolt the same, the camshaft should be fine. I think they state it isn't more for a prentative maintenance just like the balance shafts. Thanks for the video, I will tell you this, as of now everything to me was leading to oil galleys in the block being gunked up allowing minimal oil flow which I found on both blocks.
My CAM bridge screen blew out a long time ago. Didnt see the debris anywhere, but I cleaned and checked my balance shaft screens and I left the new screen on the bridge and will check it later cause if the debris is still in the engine I want the screen to catch it. Wish I replaced my shafts when I inspected them with newer updated ones
This is the example of a perfect explanation about b8 low oil pressure issues. Great work, i love this car cuz its so good and i hate this car bcoz of low oil pressure issues!
@@ETMotorsports my problem still persist. Can you please read my problem now? A month ago i had an issue with low oil pressure when the OIL Temp reaches to 90c. We have replaced HPFP and oil pump ( from junkyard ) and now i have an low oil pressure issue even car is not warmed up around 60c of oil temp. After this, we have replaced balance shafts, bridge, control valve. Problem is still persist. What to do next? Put the benzin into the car and fire it up?
@@ahmetsarpilhan you ever get it figured out man?
@@nickc7318 sure i have found it mate =)
@@ahmetsarpilhan what conclusion did you come to ?
@@ahmetsarpilhan what was it?
Died laughing when he said to hit and tap the torx screws before tryna untorque him lmao, he knows! HE KNOWS!!!!! TRUST THIS MAN!
im having exactly the same issues, replaced everything possible, now going the route of this video to see if this is the cause, on opening it all up i have the mesh broken like in the video but no trace of damage to the other parts. all new parts including bridge and mesh and will be putting it back together soon so fingers crossed or ill be in the same position. I could have bought 2 brand new engines at this point
@@ETMotorsports did you get the issue sorted on that one in the video
@@ETMotorsports was it connected with the scoring to the adjuster wheel
or blocked oil feeds?
@@ETMotorsports on doing full timing chain replacement as I thought my issue would be that but came a cross the bridge issue with hardly any mesh left, digging into the adjuster wheel tomorrow once I get the tool just to check for any further damage
@@ETMotorsports I've got a new bridge housing, just in case it's scored, just debating weather to put it in with or without the mesh as I've seen people taking them out for that reason, mine has happened with only 27k on the clock so I don't fancy having to re do it again in 20k
How did this go? Issue resolved?
That’s your answer brother the drop on oil pressure from the phaser adjuster , it happen in certain rpm due to the ware on that angle reach.
I have had issues with oil pressure but I have a volkswagon 2.0L turbo CBFA engine. So I figured that maybe it might be my oil is getting too hot and the viscosity was making it trip the oil sending unit that there was bad pressure. Turns out my oil cooler was bad when I blew into it, barely any air went through, and you could hear that it was struggling to get through. And after I changed it, I haven’t had oil pressure problems since. Unless my oil is too low and I’m going around the turn😂
do you know what happened to the cooler? The passages are very big - I have a hard time imagining that they got clogged so unless it somehow collapsed structurally it should work ok?
Hi Dude, Im from Mexico, I have a Seat Leon FR TFSI 1.8 T 2014 model 110 k kms, with the same problem since NOvember 2022, yes, more than 1 year, "low oil pression, many sync codes, I passed for 4 mechanical and nothing, I have already change, oil pump, oil sensors, the oil case filter with the piece that has de o-rings, all timing chain kit, check teh VVT´s, replace the camshaft bridge screen, they found a piston ring issue at the same time the all internal motor components was checked "I supossed" , I have already change it, as you can see, almost the same that you had with you Audi.....after many minutes or when the temperature is for the normal operation the Low pression message appears....it has not sync codes.. just the oil... Until today with this video, I think, I hope see the light at the end of tunnel.... I sent this video to my mechanical and I hope with this very clear explanation my car came out from the "dark side".... much money to send it to trash... I dont give up...yet... regards...
Good luck!! The oil pressure issues on these motors are crazy
Thanks for the help, good info appreciate you taking the time so others can learn
in my case the problem (very persistent oil pressure warning on idle sometimes with miss fire on all cylinders but not always) was dirty vvt adjuster/magnet! Litle bit of parts cleaner sprayed in each hole and problem is solved!!!
Im no where near a mechanic and i took the water pump out in about 15mins no problem...you must have tryed to short cut by not removing certain parts like the coolant tank... which gives you much more space and visibility while in there...
Thanks for all the info really help me understand my knocking noise after engine rebuild.
Got a 2012 Audi A4 1.8 TFSI with absolutely calm and smooth running engine but still have a problem of DTC P164D reduced oil pressure. Plz share your experience. Have replaced all 3 oil switches. Thanks
you are soo spot on! Everything you said made perfect sense! Keep it up
@ETMotorsports Just tore down my 2.0t my engine is transverse so i had to remove the serpentine belt tensioner and just pulled the whole oil filter housing. After changing camshaft and putting everything back together i decided to change oil filter housing and oil cooler gaskets even tho they looked fine. Took off the oil cooler and it was completely clogged with rock hard sediment.. my theory is clogged oil cooler lets oil temperature get too hot and the oil thins out when the motor warms up and then you lose oil pressure..
but that wasnt the issue. Still have problems. I have great oil pressure when engine is cold. Pressure drops to ZERO when the car warms up. The car runs great if the red oil pressure light diddnt pop you wouldnt know there was an issue. Ive changed the camshaft all timing components. Oil pump. Bridge. Only thing i haven't changed was balance shafts. They had no wobble and were not siezed everything seemed fine so i left them.
Just dont know where to go from here. Its like when the car warms up it just goes to shit.. debating on putting a very thick oil in to see if i lose pressure when it warms up..
EDIT: OK GAVE IT GAS HARD WITH pressure guage attached had about 40psi when I hit 3800rpm and it stayed above 30psi for about 10 minutes after I shut down the car.
I can Rev the car as high as I want in park and no oil pressure light soon as I go into drive and get above 1500 rmp it trips. Light Won't trip in neutral or park. Only when in gear?
I only diss agree with you on the part where you say don’t by one. Because these with the right CODE equipment these are super easy to work on the hardest thing I see and I’m doing it now is getting to things on the front but now that I know I can pull the car front away simple wirk
hahaha I own like 6 Audis...I would continue to buy them because I can work on them and save thousands while driving very nice cars...BUT if I had to recommend a car to a friend who wasn't able to maintain his own car I would never recommend the 2.0T period...
The b8 if the most beautiful and flawed of any audi the might 2.0t engine has been a headache so far for me hopefully my car get fixed soon and be back on the road asap
Absolutely fantastic work 👍
Hello from South of France in Provence. Brilliant video : I've watch it as a triller. These engines have great performance but at the cost of too much sophistication that beings to weaknesses. I have one of thoses : the 1.8 TSI EA888 BZB gen 1 in my Passat CC 2008.
I studied your video because I suspect that I have an oil presure / volume issue on my vacuum pump as the oil is doing the sealing in the pump. This pump is "protected" by the little screen you have shown (full of debrits in your video - I d'ont knowm for my engine). The symptom : I have a poor brake assistance at idlle or very low RPM (around 1000). I can have braking assistance the first time but if I brake several times, quickly I loose the assistance. I was wondering I may have a clogged filter as in your video at the level of the vacuum pump.
At the begining, I changed the vacuum pump but I have the same problem with the new one. I have mesured the depression but the figures seems to be in the spec.
The car have only 130 000 km/80 000 miles and had 5w30 norm 504.00 oil change every year/less than 10 000 km/6 200 miles. Essentialy motorway for long distances (my wife and I have 5 cars).
Any idea of a relation between oil pressure/ clogged filters/vacuum pump ?
Best, Olivier
Hey Olivier,
I don't think oil pressure will cause issues with your vacuum... the symptoms you describe point to a vacuum leak between the pump and the brake assist or a leaking diaphragm inside the assist...
My understanding of pressure is that the engine creates pressure- the oil pump pumps but isn't actually creating the pressure... makes sense no?
Hi, really great video and all your explanations are clear. I really loves audi, I have old 1.8t 1996 and I`m really happy with that car. I was thinking to get newer model, but since I watched your video i have many doubts about this car. Do you still drive the audi and how it is perform after this repair ?
Thanks! Oh man I miss my 1.8T B5!!! The newer models are much more comfortable but you can't beat the reliability of the 1.8t...I sold the B8 after fixing it
Awesome Video !!! Best I have seen …. good job.
Makes you wonder exactly where the oil was being constricted and also what definitive “ Thing “ you did that actually fixed it. I have the same motor in a 2010 Passat and the plastic sheath that surrounds the balance shaft disintegrated and clogged the oil cooler thus causing major oil pressure issues. Now I am having misfire issues and compression issues. 90 psi on cyl 2 and it passed wet compression but it’s not losing coolant.
Valve job I am thinking maybe it needs new cams
Any thoughts ?
Eek... sorry to hear about your issues...90psi is pretty low but unless you lost timing it seems unlikely that you need to do valves... have you seen my oil burning video? Is it possible a compression ring is stuck? Maybe a piston soak? I just cured two 2.0Ts with that
Tested, not sure what else it could be , All the screens were nice and in good condition, I did change out my Pressure switches for oem ones
Ever come to resolution?
Nice work. I would like to see how you disassembled the front of the car to get it out of the way. I am helping my son work on his.
Honestly it's pretty easy - you've got a couple of screws in the wheel wells and a couple of bolts holding the bumper, after that you put the rad support in service position... that's it... on these cars you can put much detach the left side and pull it away like a door as long as it's supported so you can free up more space but watch out for the AC and coolant lines on the right side
@ETMotorsports ok I'll give it a try. Thanks. I think I'll get that manual in your video too.
Very nice! Good job!
Luckily my problem was only the oil pump.
Will inspect the cam adjuster valve and vacuum pump though, since they engine is not idling smooth enough to my liking.
And the clutch+2mf need to be replaced after +/- 230k
@@ETMotorsports No codes except for cat below efficiency, but it's also consuming oil. Was rebuilt at 104k by Audi, compression is 150-ish psi.
Did maintenance at least once per year, all filters Mann or Bosch and Amsoil, only doing daily highway trips.
Swapped the throttle body as this was causing the not completely smooth idling withy A4 B6 1.8t at the time. But this didn't fix the problem.
Oh, and I replaced the pcv already including all hoses.
The vacuum pump gasket has to be renewed anyway as it's spilling some oil.
Hi ! I'm from India really you are very genius I proud of you my friend
This video was really helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to dig all the way into the problem and report your findings.
Thankfully I haven't had any low pressure issues, but I'm not making second-stage pressure at 3700 and it's putting my '12 Q5 in limp mode.
Timing chain and pistons replaced by dealer at 75k for oil consumption. Ross-Tech says chain less than 1 degree off so i don't think that's the problem.
Replaced high and low pressure senders, master CV. No love. Have noticable vibration at idle. I'm thinking my balance shaft screens are partially clogged and have starved the shafts, causing scoring etc. Also prevents making second stage pressure.
Also 167k so it's probably time to replace then anyway. Thanks again for the video. Feel more confident than ever I've got this diagnosed properly. Time to start ordering parts. 💸💸💸
Sounds like you've got a fun task ahead of you... the vibration aside though I'm wondering if there is another issue causing the second stage oil pressure... the balance shafts shouldn't affect that - maybe regulator or the pump?
@@ETMotorsports Yeah, I think you're right. Need to get an oil pressure gauge there on the high pressure switch port and monitor it versus expected. (This is fault P164B of you're playing along at home. Second stage pressure not met, and it's the "permissive" to engage VVT)
Can the phaser be unbolted from the intake cam without removing the cam from the block? Im thinking one can just replace the cam adjusting gear unit.
Fantastic video. I learned so much.
Your problem has to deal with fluidity being reduced before the oil pressure sensor by the back up coming from the balance shafts. You fail to understand the pressure is backing up PAST the oil pressure sensor thus slowing the fluidity towards it. This gives you a low oil pressure reading. GREAT VID! Keep it up!! Always use all screens provided by Audi.
So what will cause the back up? There were no blockages on the balance saft oil ports? And even if there were the situation should only end up to hydrostatig situation. There should be no oil backing up? What could push the oil back?
@@samituomisto106 these engines are of high tolerance. Great for performance. If the engine is overheated, the oil gets thick at the bottom. As it gets thicker the oil towards the top gets progressive thinner. We can't race these engines hot and expect no immediate change viscosity. Got to change the oil more frequent than they advise and anytime the engine has been racing
@@DZIREDYNAMIC I have rebuild few have had them on Audi and VW solutions and few previous EA113 on Audi TTS and Skoda Octavia RS. Never race them properly and had no issues with quality oils like Castrol. Here in Finland the extreme gold temperatures in winter times are greater proplem than overheating. Great engines specially gen3 high output models Golf R etc. Some weaknesses but all modern engines seems to have them...
@@samituomisto106 here in the US, the culture is to drive to a 10min oil change shop and get cheap oil such as Penzoil. That minimizes the lag time between changes and doesn't allow for racing. The cold temperatures will not help with the thickening at the bottom because this is where it is HOTTEST in the engine. Thermal Breakdown Carbon Build-up. You are right about Castrol.
@@samituomisto106 yes the SLUDGE.
Excelente video, un saludo desde Colombia, me vi todos y cada uno de los videos relacionados con la búsqueda de la solución del problema y de verdad que fue muy emocionante, muchas felicitaciones eres un gran técnico, muchas gracias por compartir esta información con todos!
I too have had my exhaust balance shaft cover fail.
My part didn’t come with plastic black tube does my car need it or is it optional??
Amazing job! You are an Audi magician!
My Audi car gives low oil grains in idling and p0341
Thanks for the video! I learned a lot and you earned a new subscriber. Hope you dont mind me bombarding you with questions but you know this engine very well. Maybe you could help me track down a hopefull small issue im having too??
Do you know any tricks for keeping the covers sealed? What rtv do you use for each of them? Looked like red rtv on the cam cover? I used dirko grey on my cam cover last time. Held up for about a year but I city drive 200 miles a day in a stage 3 mk6 gti. Ccta
Do you add rtv to the upper timing cover with the gasket? I suspect mine is leaking again but it could be the oring inside the cam bridge..
My car doesn't throw any codes but I do get an Intermittent "engine off now or die" message. Took the oil pressure sensor out and cleaned it with mass air flow cleaner and still see the message. My polar fis showed speratic oil temps pre cleaning of the sensor and post clean seemed to solve the speratic temps. I'm going to do an oil pressure test next and change the oil to inspect for metal or plastic.
On a cold start i hear a bit more than usual ticking sound, sounds like down by the oil pump maybe. It goes away after a minute or 2. I'm also noticing my catch can is filling up much faster than usual. Similarly to when my rear main seal went out... It doesn't misfire.
@NiTeCProductions Is the anaerobic sealant any good? I'm planning on resealing it soon. I was going to use "the right stuff" black but would love to never see a leak again. :)
I did an oil pressure test today and looks like oil pressure is good. 2000 rpm was at 20-25 psi; 3000 rpm, 30 -35, 4000, 40-45. I think I got lucky and its just the pressure switch. Im going to baby the throttle and hold off on the oil change for a few days to see if the engine off now message comes back.
Didn't hear the cold start ticking sound today either. If I hear that again, I'll drain and inpect the oil.
This was awesome, thanks man!!!!
Good vid. I didn’t have time to watch it all but noticed at the end you drove the car and said the oil warnings were gone. Did you ever measure the actual oil pressure before and after with a gauge? Would have been really curious to see that.
I have a completely rebuilt engine that I have been driving for 10k km now, and on my trip down to Florida a few days ago driving in 30deg c weather on the highway, got off highway and came to an abrupt stop and the oil pressure warning light came on. First time I’ve ever seen it. Hooked up a mechanical gauge and hot idle oil pressure is really bad, like 8psi. As soon as you even touch the gas pedal it jumps to 20 and driving around it is perfectly normal at 25-28psi. The second stage is also working as normal around 3200rpm.
I took my cam bridge screen out during the rebuild, and cleaned all screens on balance shafts and fuel pump. Trying to decide what to do next.
Hmm...I never measured the pressure with a gauge... your problem sounds interesting though - you can get the pressure specs for the two stages and compare... could be an oil pump or dirty pickup
@@ETMotorsports Yeah I have the specs from the manual. Not sure. I just had the oil pan off to replace the oil pan and the pump screen was clean. Since full rebuild I only ran full synthetic 5w40, 7000km changes. I have the tool to remove the intake camshaft adjuster so I’ll check it tomorrow. I cut open my oil filter today and it was clean inside 🫤 good but at the same time I have a bad feeling it will be deeper in the engine
@@Sugarkryptonite hmm is it coming up consistently or just that one time? Maybe don't worry unless it's popping up all the time
@@ETMotorsports No not all the time. The first time I was doing 85 mph on the highway in 85F weather for a few hours then got off the highway abruptly on the off ramp and stopped at a light not long after. Light came on...I shut car off as quickly as possible in a parking lot nearby. Checked the oil level and that nothing was leaking...checked with VAG COM (had laptop with me) and it said sporadic/intermittent signal from oil pressure sensor. I restarted car, no more oil light. Idled more at a gas station and then drove another 350 miles on the highway in similar conditions. Got off highway again and it did the same thing.
This time I didn't stop as I was getting back on the highway...it didn't come on again on the rest of my trip. At home I never do this kind of driving in this heat, so I thought it might be because of the heat. But it coming on twice in one trip is worrying. I haven't ran the car since as I have been trying to diagnose it while I'm on my trip in Florida as I don't need the car as much. Only time I ran it was with the oil pressure gauge connected so I didn't have the sensor in the oil port (thus no warning on the dash)
@@Sugarkryptonitehello
Did you figure out what was the issue ?
My 2012 VW GTI oil low pressure light off and on all time , so I order Esc tuning Oil pump kits , replacement oil pump then. I drive all round Austin city plus traffic. No more oil low pressure light on yaya Thank God. My engine is ok now.
Great - easy fix :)
I've got a 2009 Audi A4. My issue is a low oil level warning light. I've replaced the balance shafts and timing chains ,guides ,tensioner, oil pump and all the sensors. The car runs good but dies once in a while and I still have the light beeping saying to stop engine and check oil level. Any suggestions?
Ouch. That sucks to hear.. have you come to a resolution yet??
Have you found a problem?
Screens are designed for viscocity chosen.....a choice of thicker viscocity...I've heard people remove screens.....however...I don't know if screens failed....in this incident...
Buen trabajo !! Nice car 👏🏻🇩🇪
Same opinion here, low oil pressure should be triggered by leaks not clogs in this type of system
@@ETMotorsports today i just finished replacing my camshaft, indeed after many "mechanics" trying to fix the noise and low oil pressure, i just escaped that rattle nightmare sound. I've seen alot of people trying to solve this problem but most of them stop at the intake camshaft for some reason, stating as oil pressure drop is caused by stuck oil passage...
@@ETMotorsports too bad you cannot buy just the phaser :( and you are forced to buy it whole
Was you intake cam "noisy" before replacement? I'm starting to think that intake cam is my issue as well.
@@morpheus232001 not really. When i took out the camshaft there was actually verry little play in the phaser , at first glance you could say it was a perfectly good camshaft phaser. The only noise in the area was the loose chain hitting the plastic cover ( i have a video on my channel for reference) . But went on and changed it and all problems disapeared including restored oil pressure.
low oil pressure can be triggered when camshaft journals, rod and/or crank bearings wear out.
Great job bud... Buen trabajo hermano... 👍👍👍Where do you recommend get the cam from.. And do i need to change those square metal slots..? Thank you
Great.. Apreciate your getting back to me.. So the best thing will be to find a decent used.. One with that phase not too wore out...? Or buy a new cam.. Thank you again
Great... Your awesome brother 👍 I apreciate your help. Gracias.
Hi, I have an audi A5 2.0 tfsi quattro and the revs drop occasionally when driving and the stop start kicks in at odd times. I have 2 engine codes, p032200 and p008800. After some reading in thinking it's the crank shaft position sensor but I was wondering what your thoughts would be. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated pls 🙏
Hi, thanks for this video. I have a similar problem. TSI 2.0 280HP EA8883b Oil pressure indicator at IDLE - ONLY when oil temperature at range: 70-90 degrees Celsius. When the engine warms up - everything is OK. Replaced - Intake camshaft, pump pressure valve, piston cooling valve, new oil and filter with plastik valve. I'm starting to suspect electronics - I will be grateful for any hint.
Hey so you've got oil pressure issues at idle at low temps? Have you tried to unplug the pressure regulating valve to see what happens?
@@ETMotorsports I put the oil popup into high pressure mode in the ECU via VCDS. The problem has only occurred once so far. So much less often. I'm waiting for the mechanic to remove the oil pan and check the condition of the pump - we bet it will need to be replaced.
@d3vilo yeah if you haven't replaced the pump that makes sense... although I couldn't see much wrong with mine they do go bad
Thanks so much for the video bro I’m having issues with low oil pressure in my EPC light is coming on I’m going to start off by replacing the sensors if not I might have to replace the cam.
Thanks for this video.
@@ETMotorsports Yeah it’s coming on around the same RPM that yours is coming on but once I cycle the key off back on it goes away then the low boil pressure comes back on. Once the car warms up it doesn’t do it as much
@@johnnycruz7133 4
@@melvinlirkland2616 Yeah I replaced my oil pump a month ago and found metal shavings at the bottom of the oil pan. I have no rod knock at all so now I’m wondering if it’s the Cambridge
@@johnnycruz7133 I have the same exact symptoms, runs fine when cold, plenty of power all good until the engine warms up and it shuts itself sounding like a diesel.
I tore the engine out thinking it was rod or main bearings, balance shafts or camshafts.
To my surprise EVERYTHING is in perfect condition, camshafts, balance shafts, guides, timing chain, rods and main bearings.
Before tearing the engine apart (after doing a complete rebuild)I replaced the oil pump, Cambridge, cam magnet, cleaned injectors, ported the cylinder head w new valves and guides, new oil pressure sensor, cam solenoid, also crankshaft position sensor. I installed new waffle rings, new head gasket, rear main seal, oversize pistons, everything is new on the engine, besides the camshafts and balance shafts that were from a parts engine a mechanic took the short block for a build.
I had the crank specked at a machine shop, all within tolerances. All screens removed, no debris or contamination, the block was cleaned at the shop, and after all that work I still get the low oil pressure.
Bought again, new bearings, gaskets, new balance shafts and camshafts, I am about to start re-assembling everything back again.
After all the above from the rebuild, the check engine light comes on for low oil pressure and the dreaded EPC, so I also bought a new manifold which I am about to install.
@@mazpr2025 Hello, I am the same as you, with a 2009 Audi A4, 2.0 engine, now they have told me that under the oil filter there is a valve that has 2 rubber washers that wear out and give this error, I will have to try it.
please help im trying to remove the balance shafts and the exhaust side will not budge. i have a slide hammer on it and it will not come out. does the shaft have to be orientated a certain way? and how is the intake side balance shaft connected do the waterpump? do i just remove the waterpump and the balance shaft should pop out?
Hydraulics timing or pulsing reduction of loose or leaking areas.
Respect 🙌
I had major issues with my EA888 engine on a VW GTI. VAG make the crappiest engines in the world. I will never buy any VAG product ever again after my horrible experience.
Great video !
Fire 🔥
Thank you
Nice job man.
Haha like you said it’s good for buying cheap cars and bad for normal consumers. I’m enjoying driving my q5 a5 and a4 all acquired for Peanuts - instead of fixing the engines I just grab engines from crashed cars and huck them in (can do dealer lookup of vin to see service history)
@4:30 "evidence someone has been in here already" Someone did the timing chain right? They have definitely been in there before.
Hi, THANKS for this video. IT teach me a lot. I have some question. I have rattle sound but no light signal of low presure. What do you recomend me to look, or what components I should start to check. I think I have same issue with low oil presure. I have rough idle after warm up. THANKS
@@ETMotorsports i think sound comes from variator. I feel vibration just litle bit. But sound goes from this part or little bit deep
Are these similar or the same as the EA888 series engines? I've got a second gen EA888 with slightly low oil pressure only at idle plus timing being off and I've heard this can be due to worn intake camshaft...
Thanks for the video!
Im searching for a year a oil pressure problem on my car, will change some parts...
I only get pressure issue when the engine is warm, any help to start with? Thanks!
Do you get the EPC light?
Other obs:
I did the balance shaft delete, and the new head...
Can i get your email please, it would be awesome!
Thanks!@@ETMotorsports
how can you replace the cam when it's matched to the cover?
On the tiguan that seized up again I promise you it's your oil pump or oil system has the screen jamming it up
my intake balance shaft was toast, causing my low oil pressure at idle.
My CDAA engine had low oil pressure at idle (warm engine above 88 degree C). Isn't possible I had similar issue with the VVT? I plan to run VCDS by using 091 measuring block to confirm it, isn't a good idea?
@@ETMotorsports I ran VCDS and yes my cam phaser reading is haywire. My interpretation from the engine lubrication diagram, the culprit should be from bearing bridge until cam phaser. I might be wrong. Like you, I did change a lot of parts already. I changed oil pump, pressure regulating valve, oil filter retaining post, oil filter, oil pressure switch and engine oil but the problem still persist until now. From your video I think I understand that if the vane inside the cam phaser weared out, the oil flow will pass the weared out gap(especially when hot-thin oil) and enter to the other side of the vane created high pressure inside the cam phaser. Inside the cam bridge and cylinder head have a non-return valve for each of them. So the high pressure build-up oil in cam phaser will not return to the bottom side for the pressure switch to take the high-pressure reading but the oil will out through a hole at intake camshaft near the cam phaser. Sometimes I got EPC light during hard acceleration at around 4000RPM. My car mileage now at 240,000km++ approximate around 150,000 miles. Thanks for the video.
I've got a second gen EA888 CDAA in a Skoda with the same low oil pressure only at idle problem. My timing is also off in the wrong direction +13*. Did you ever fix your problem?
@@sailorbob74133 Yes, Mine fixed after I changed cam-bridge and intake cam-shaft.
"looks like someone has been in here already and removed the screens" sounds like you got a naptown tuner car lol
Is that bad ?
I got a 2013 CPMA that has had oil pressure switch, control valve, camshaft adjustment bridge and oil pump replaced, but still getting a pretty consistent low oil pressure warning when hot, only at idle. You think balance shafts maybe?
hey do you have any codes? do you get the EPC light? I talk about it on the video - I personally can't understand how the balance shafts would cause a low oil pressure issue...they can cause issues for sure but I`m not sure low oil pressure is one of them...
Does anyone know why Audi was putting oil screens in different parts of the motor instead of relying on the oil filter? Why not add a second oil filter or oil bypass sensor instead?
I am also getting same issue what is normal temperature of engine oil I have vw passat tsi 1.8 manual transmission getting issues while driving car after 20 to 30 mins engine oil temperature goes 124 degrees C" after that car getting error ' Check Engine service now ' then engine off automatically and goes into safe mode then we had scan the error has come ' cam Shaft position sensor range performance P0341' after one hour car start normally plz suggest ur experience about this fault ...
hmmm...what have you replaced so far? This doesn't sound like a pressure issue...have you replaced the cam position sensor and actuator?
please iam not perfect in.english language plz tell me what the man said about this fault i mean whats the thing make balance shaft to seized plzzz replay whats parts
Que buen trabajo y explicación, muchas gracias, Saludos!
I had an oil pressure switch malfunction.
Did you clock the intake balancer?.....the three indented dots are supposed to group together to properly situate the weighted side of the balancer.....
Yes - everything is installed and timed as per instructions
@@ETMotorsports Oh okay. Couldn't tell when in ffwd. Great videos...I don't know how you guys have the time to do this stuff. Mine seized and here I am...a little too late.