Your videos are always the best man. I'm currently attempting to diagnose an oil pressure issue on my 2010 Volkswagen CC. I hooked up a mechanical to see what oil pressure was present on the vehicle. When the engine is warm, it reads around 10 PSI at idle and at 2k it goes up to 30 or so PSI. As far as the reading I have come across, its pretty low or at the lower ends of minimum by specs. I decided to start easy, I pulled the oil pan and saw that someone had already been there and replaced the oil pump with an "aftermarket" pump that seems to be in working order. The pick up tube looks clean as well and no wear metal or glitter inside the oil pan. Second thing I decided to do was to take off the upper timing cover to see the cam bridge and oil valve. It appears that both cams are brand new and the cam bridge is a valco brand cam bridge and it has the revised screen (one that doesn't blow out haha). Also, the timing chain is the double linked one (revised version) and the tensioner as well. This leads to to believe that maybe my oil pressure issues are coming from the balance shafts. Any suggestions would be appreciated my guy!
hmm...it sounds like somebody's been chasing this issue for a while and already dumped a few thousand dollars on it...what is the car doing? is it giving you a warning for oil pressure? epc light? hesitation at 1500rpm? any codes for intake cam adjustment? I know a lot of people say the balance shafts can cause issues but if you watch the second video I posted dealing with this oil pressure issue, I`m not exactly sure how the balance shafts can cause low oil pressure...there's nowhere for the oil pressure to escape - at least not that I can see...on this car the issue ended up being the intake cam adjustment phasor...I replaced the cam to get it to stop throwing the EPC light at 1500rpm...you could see scoring on the bearing surface but I think it was the phasor which was "leaking" oil... that's not to say the balance shafts can't be a problem but on my car, they were still spinning freely...
@@ETMotorsports I appreciate for the reply brother. This vehicle has been used and abused. For example the 02E trans was full of ATF and wasn’t engaging gears. I manage to flush it out as best as possible and put some liquid moly in it. Now it shifts smoothly but still having a low oil pressure code that comes up but seems to be functional. As far as the low oil pressure on engine side. I’m going change cams that u pulled from the local junk yard (they appear to be in great condition compared to the old ones. Only real wear I have noticed, the girdle cap (valve cover 🤷) has significant scoring on the caps. Odd thing is, the actual cylinder head looks pretty good. The cam lobs look good but the touching surface to ride ok the cylinder head and the girdle cap look scratch to hell, cams and girdle cap. That could of been from the ridiculous amount of RTV someone put to seal the girdle cap. It honestly looks like someone had a medical emergency while holding an RTV tube. I changed both balance shafts. The exhaust one had blown screens and one missing and the plastic cover looked kinda eaten up at the passenger side portion of it. I should be able to get it all squared away today before end of day (central time) I’ll report back. Again, thank you for your videos and your help! Cheers from Smyrna Tennessee.
@@ETMotorsports hey brother, sorry for the delay. I figured I would report back with my findings and experience. I solved my low oil pressure issues. I replace both intake and exhaust cams with used but in great shape. Also, both balance shafts. I also went up in oil weight to 10w40 and the car runs great. Thanks for the video man! Love your channel.
Good afternoon, I am Jerónimo from Wölfecar Argentina. Your video is very good and you have done a good job with this TSI. As you have been told, there is a non-return valve at the base of the cylinder head that must be checked. Your efforts have not ended well, because the camshaft housings in the cylinder head tend to get loose, where the pressure leaks. The camshafts must be replaced and their housings in the cylinder head rectified. Good luck! Wölfecar 👨🔧
Hola Jeronimo. From Uruguay. Same problem. Gone through the entire sequence of problems. I have actually bouhght a new intake shaft and that is my last chance. Tell me what kind of bushings do you have in Argentina to locate on the housings? Probably I will find the housings in bad conditions, but these are alluminium. Do you handle any kind of bearings to be able to rectify and add to original diameter?@@jeronimolobos7648
Great job. Sorry you’re going through this. I’ve got a similar problem. Just did a valve job on my wife’s 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI engine with all new chains, water pump, Tstat, injectors, tune up, coils, etc. Was working fine except for the lean code. Replaced the PCV valve, same thing. Then the PO341, POO11 & POOOA showed up. All cam timing issues. Plus. I started having cam phaser noises after the engine warms up. If I disconnect the phaser solenoid, no noise. So. I did the same thing you did, put a used phaser solenoid in it. Funny thing. The lean code disappeared (I guess that’s where the vac leak was/is), but the cam issues are still there. So. I’m going to start with the oil pressure solenoid & go from there. I hope the stupid phaser itself isn’t defective because that would mean having to pull the whole front of the engine back apart. What a piece of crap these engines are. I have a TDI diesel 2013 Jetta with virtually no issues. I’m a GM tech by trade and have a Tahoe w/an LS 5.3L V8. No issues out of 180,000 miles. Still runs strong. I’ll share anything I learn about this cam phaser/oil pressure deal.
I have similar problem, like you. With my vw scirocco 2.0 tsi. can you share me how to fix it. When i disconnect the selenoid which adjust camshaft, it have no noise!! Thanks you very much!!
@@stevejohnson29 I’m an Audi master tech, if you did a timing job the spool valve that’s reverse threads on the intake cam HAS to be at 10nm (I think I can’t remember) if it’s too tight it will throw intake cam over retarded codes
Wow. That’s not much torque. I’ll check that. I kinda doubt that’s the problem. But. I’ll try. I’ve been driving the thing for several months now. I leave the cam solenoid unplugged. Makes like a rattling noise when I’m just barely giving it throttle. 1/16 or less. But. As soon as I go to 1/8 or 1/4 throttle, the turbo kicks in & the rattle noise goes away. Pretty sure it’s not from the bottom end. I have a feeling the cam phaser is jacked after 105k. So. I’m going to order an intake cam and throw it in with a new valve and solenoid. We’ll see if that fixes it. It doesn’t have any low oil pressure problems. (No oil light).
Thanks for the video, you defiantly need to rebuild the engine, the plastic in the oil pan and pick up tube are a good sign of internal problem and oil passages blockage, check your timing chain guides and pull out the balancer shafts for screen inspection. good luck.
Intake cam is shot in this car. There is a bridge on the front of both camshafts that direct oil from a passage from the bottom of the cylinder head to the intake cam. If you pull that off (you will need a special tool for the spool valve and it has reverse threads) you will likely see a small screen and metal ball that are supposed to be there not there. Both the screen and the ball clog the oil passage to the intake cam or ruin the intake cam phaser itself causing oil pressure issues or correlation faults with misfires. There used to be a bulletin as well for the inlet passage for the cam bridge being very clogged causing the need for cylinder head replacement. Those little pins and plastic you’re seeing I suspect are needle bearings from your rockers and you’re seeing small bits of your chain guides in the pan.
I agree the needle's are part of the rockers ! The ball under the schreen in bridge should be there i think ! But since i work on the 1.8 l 2015 jeta i dont remember seeing a ball in it under screen onless someone before me pulled out at timing chain drivve ! Other than that After i put new timing chain on my jetta after i done and started up the yellow and red oil lite sembol stays on i wonder if that ball is missing at check valve is my problem !??? Oh I ought Car on Auction w bad engine thats why i realy dont know the history of the car . I tought the job will e ease change the bad bent valves , but i gess the surface on cam and head cover accured from screen ! ???
I agree. The roller in the oil pan is from the cam follower. A rocker or finger follower failed. The tappet shaft pulled out of the roller and the needles went everywhere. Oil pressure controls the follower contact against the cam. I suspect that assembly is in pieces. This results in uncontrolled oil flow hence low oil pressure. Like a garden hose with no nozzle versus garden hose with a nozzle. You have to remove the valve cover. Why no misfire? Maybe due to four valves per cylinder. Great video though. Especially for us DIYers.
Are you a VW tech by chance? If so, I had a question. I just did a valve job on my wife’s 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI engine with all new chains, tensioners, guides, water pump, Tstat, injectors, tune up, coils, etc. Was working fine except for the lean code. Replaced the PCV valve, same thing. Then the PO341, POO11 & POOOA showed up. All cam timing issues. Plus. I started having cam phaser noises after the engine warms up at about 1300 RPM no load in park. If I disconnect the phaser solenoid, no noise. So I put a used phaser solenoid in it. Funny thing. The lean code disappeared (I guess that’s where the vac leak was/is), but the cam phaser code issues are still there. So. I’m going to start with the oil pressure solenoid & go from there. I hope the stupid phaser itself isn’t defective because that would mean having to pull the whole front of the engine back apart. Any ideas?
I just watched your video I did not read any of the comments so this may already be posted. Those pins that you found in the oil pan go in the camshaft phaser
Possibly balance shafts. You need to take the chains off again, but I would check the balance shafts (intake in particular). There are 4 oil holes with tiny screens in them that tend to clog with debris. The shaft replacement is easy, dealing with the chains is the difficult part.
I'm currently attempting to diagnose an oil pressure issue on my 2010 Volkswagen CC. I hooked up a mechanical to see what oil pressure was present on the vehicle. When the engine is warm, it reads around 10 PSI at idle and at 2k it goes up to 30 or so PSI. As far as the reading I have come across, its pretty low or at the lower ends of minimum by specs. I decided to start easy, I pulled the oil pan and saw that someone had already been there and replaced the oil pump with an "aftermarket" pump that seems to be in working order. The pick up tube looks clean as well and no wear metal or glitter inside the oil pan. Second thing I decided to do was to take off the upper timing cover to see the cam bridge and oil valve. It appears that both cams are brand new and the cam bridge is a valco brand cam bridge and it has the revised screen (one that doesn't blow out haha). Also, the timing chain is the double linked one (revised version) and the tensioner as well. This leads to to believe that maybe my oil pressure issues are coming from the balance shafts. Any suggestions would be appreciated my guy!
Rebuild the engine, the issue is with the bearings. And while doing that, check the cams if they don't have any marks. But rebuilding it will help you and also inspect the balance shafts. They also have screen that normally block the oil passage
I had a similar issue and mine needed a new camshaft. There is a spring loaded pin that locks the cam shaft in place when the engine is off. It got stuck because of sludge build up from using conventional motor oil or going way to long between oil changes. Made a horrific noise when starting but went away within seconds. New cam shaft fixed the problem.
@@ETMotorsports also that debris in the oil pan was from the timing chain guides getting chewed up from a stretched chain with a tensioner that was maximum travel and could no longer keep it tight. I think they caught the chain just before it broke because if it would have snapped the entire top end would have been rebuilt. Or perhaps it did snap and it was rebuilt but you can almost always tell if the motor had been tore apart. Really good video BTW!
Just replace the intake camshaft and the camshaft bridge you can start with the easy stuff and replace the camshaft bridge that was the culprit with every single vehicle I rebuilt that issue was coming up the little rattle at 1500 RPM and EPC light comes on
My daughter called me frantic about her Tigua making engine rattle noise. My 21 year old grandson who knows it all, told me he changed several parts that Autozone said it needed due to camshaft timing codes etc. It was still making the noise so he called me. I have been an oilfield mechanic for 50 years but my grandson thinks I know nothing about new tech stuff. Well I get there and the first thing I do is check the high tech dipstick and found no oil on it. I filled it with oil and it is quiet as a mouse. VW says if it's low on oil the VVT and timing sensor will give timing codes. It needs a full crankcase to operate correctly. It seems dipsticks of today are the same as 50 years ago and 21 year olds still think they know it all as when I was 21.
this comes from the oil pump in the crankcase, the brush is overgrown with foreign materials in the oil and from there there is low pressure in the distribution valve. that's where the throttle valve error comes from
Not that it matters now...two years later but... what you found in the oil pan looked very much like a roller bearing from one of the rocker arms. A rocker arm fell off, got chewed up and is causing reduced oil pressure because the hydraulic lifter is partially out or in position but freely spewing unrestricted oil out of the top.......causing low oil pressure and loose parts are making the ticking noise. These engines will run "normally" even missing one rocker arm, especially and exhaust one. Been there done exactly THAT.....MAYBE.
that's what the general consensus is but I didn't find any mechanical issues with the motor when I pulled everything apart...the balance shafts and cams showed some wear but nothing to point to a failed bearing or anything like that...to be honest the metal bits in the oil pan remain unexplained unless the previous owner changed the head after failure but didn't bother to clean the oil pan...
Hi buddy! I really like your way of explaining things, it comes easy for me to understand. Obviously I have this shitty 2.0T but beside "Switch off engine and check oil level" I also have problems with EPC Do not exceed 4k RPM. Any chance you have a video addressing that problem too so I can follow your steps? Bless you!
@@ETMotorsports and btw, your face expression at 44:35 I feel you bro, I ended up in that situation way too many times with this engine, exhausting is just a sweeet way to put it.
GOD DOES KNOW but was the crankshaft and bearings done? Not forgetting those of the balancer shafts. The dirt in the oil channels did pack up somewhere. You need to locate what is called oil dump along the way. Many many techs struggle with this Engine, do it by the book surgically and charge like a medical doctor too. It's quite demanding to get it right.
Hello,this was a huge help. Also the problem I am having with the same car is,I am only having oil pressure warning light only at idle after warm up,I replaced all the sensors,new oil,filter all original ones. I hope you can help me and let me know where to start. Thank you so much,I see you know a lot about these cars.
I just did timing chain on my a4 my assumption is that it looks like it has the newer guides sold to the previous owner, change, timing chain and somehow messed up the cams and it was off time. Lucky he didn’t bent valves.
@@ETMotorsports Im working on a 2011 , basically same shit motor. new chain , pump, waterpump, and serviced , only 84k on it , its throwing a coolent performance fault, any good tricks of fixing this ? plus we're trying to pass emissions on this shit too, we have Catalyst Mon check left in the readiness that never sets status to OK . It's just reporting N/A . we rock a 3 inch Race Cat on it so that shouldn't be a problem, plus new sensors upstream / downstream.
sorry for the slow reply...this is the set I used: www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IUCONNY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 but like I said in the video there's really no point in opening these up - you can't service them
did you put the screen back on........ what does do you have now ? is it possible that the phaser was not re installed properly ? because it was working better than that before you touched it....... just trying to help......... you have a lot of patience ....... best way to learn is directing like you did. did you torque the bolts ........ just trying to help.
Hi. I have exactly the same problem as you. Finished dismantling the phasers, the same wear marks you found, reasembled everything and no good. Would you tell me if you finally solved the problem? Changed the intake shaft? Found spare phasers to replace? I would greately appreciate your comment. Its a lot of work to be able to remove and change the camshaft.
I am also getting same issue what is normal temperature of engine oil I have vw passat tsi 1.8 manual transmission getting issues while driving car after 20 to 30 mins engine oil temperature goes 124 degrees C" after that car getting error ' Check Engine service now ' then engine off automatically and goes into safe mode then we had scan the error has come ' cam Shaft position sensor range performance P0341' after one hour car start normally plz suggest ur experience about this fault ...
Have you tried the exhaust valve solenoid? If your misfire us in the same cyl., try switching the exh solenoid and see if the misfire follows the solenoid. My 09 tsfi has the same issue but have not tried all you have done, but will try the bridge and cleaning the pick up screen, a running compression test and maybe the fuel injector since mine is strictly #4. Would love to hear back from you if the solenoid swap fixed your car. Thanx Mark
I rebuilt my a4 2.0t and had similar plastic in mine it was chunks from the shroud that goes in/around the exhaust side balance shaft it broke and melted into chunks it was a pain to clean out all the little chunks
@@ETMotorsports I have the same problem.low oil pressure in idle. Also replaced oil pump & all sensors & the bottom solenoid. I’ve also encountered plastic debris in oil pan, turned out to be the exhaust balance shaft sleeve that melted out, replaced it with a new one & melted again so I removed it completely as I don’t think will hurt anything. No solution for me but the car seems to run fine except for the annoying warning & cam crank correlation code. I’ll run it till it dies.
@@ETMotorsports oil gets thinner at higher temperatures. Mine starts throwing the warning when it reaches normal temperature. I doesn’t do it when cold. I’ve also tried oil pressures boosters from Lucas products with no luck.
@@ETMotorsports I think in the passageways in the block, since that’s where the plastic sleeve melted. There are oil ducts all around the balance shaft that could’ve gotten clogged. I really hope someone proves me wrong & it’s something simpler than that.
I have the same issue at 1800 RPM. The problem is the wear of the phase regulator blades. It's just not holding the pressure and doesn't make the adjustment at low RPM. Mine is making the pressure at 2200 rpm. Below this speed, the engine trembles and struggles to build power. Additionally, as a fault code, you will get random misfires on all 4 cylinders.
I have the question in 39 min you show, how the actuator and phaser valve work. IT could make rattle sound becacuse i have problem with this probably. After warm up, it rattle on idle. THANKS
I have similar problem with 2010 Tiguan 2.0L Low oil pressure, engine off.. Changed oil pressure sensor.. still dint fix.. Check engine light comes and goes in 900-1100 rpm when we give slower throttle every-time after driving 20-30min. Not seeing the warning with fast throttle. OBD2 says p0341 It could be the issue with cam bridge screen? Any suggestions?
hey - if you watch the second episode, I actually fixed it by replacing the intake camshaft...0341 is an intake cam code...what happens is the intake cam phaser gets screwed up and starts losing oil...you see the CEL at 1100rpm because that's when the adjustment starts and it's not working as it should causing the oil pressure and the code
Belisimo ! nice job my friend ........ tell me the bolts on the pan , were they aluminum or steel, because I did the pan on my transmission and a few bolts broke on me..... the engine oil pan use the same garbage bolts.
@@ETMotorsports im thinking or replacing my pan, but my transmission 6mm alum bolts ........ I spent 5 hrs to drill 4 out without damaging the threads ........ I don't feel like going through that again. thanks anyways.
The 3 aluminum bolts are only for the magnet on the intake cam. I've seen steel ones there too. They could have been swapped to oil pan by mistake. Same size.
Hey here's the set but there's no point in ordering it - there's nothing you can do to fix the phaser if you open it RAM-PRO 9Pc Torx Star 5 Point,... www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IUCONNY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
hello, sorry to bother you. I have the following problem, VW PASSAT VARIAND TSI 200 horses, no oil pressure, the oil pump has been replaced, the shaft support, the phase control valve, after the soy oil, we opened the shaft and saw that the blades are playing sideways and there is a gap on the right, is it possible that this is where the problem is and that it falls the pressure.
1.8 tsi bzb stop oil pressure engine off owners red summer is on, only engine cooling temperature is 95° and 104° is on. It does it when it approaches 2000 rpm. There is no problem when it is cold, please help
Thanks for sharing your experience, however the restrictions is on your top chain gard, it's to big normal small gard will free the following of the chain, and increase your oil pressure
Sorry mate - that's 100% wrong... the chain guard has nothing to do with the oil pressure... if it was restricting the chain in any way you'd have much more serious issues... this was fixed wth a new intake cam - you can see it in the second episode
I just put a new crank sensor, cam sensor, timing chain kit, new magnet and vvt valve. The car started perfectly, but when I shut it off and restarted the problem came back right away. At 720 RPM idle it says the "Phase Position - Bank 1 intake is at 13.22" I think the spec is at +/- 2, and before I did the timing it was at a 9, so basically, I made it worse. I took the upper timing chain off and I am measuring that everything is perfectly timed. The cambridge was missing the screen, but had the brass retaining ring for it. Any thoughts? Take the Cam Phaser apart?
Hmm there's nothing you can really do taking the phaser apart... if it's bad it's bad... so the phase is measured with the cam and crank position sensors so if your timing is correct and the magnet is new then really the only thing I can think of is the cam... yes that's really the phaser itself but you can't fix it so you'd have to get a new cam... that's the only thing that finally fixed my issues But what actual problem are you dealing with?
@@ETMotorsports Appreciate the reply. I had swapped the cam sensor for the old as part of troubleshooting and just put the new on. Magnet is now responding again and the Phase position Bank 1 intake went to 6.9. I also did another compression test and it looks perfect like no bent valves and consistent pressure with no leak down. I watched your second video and am going to grab a cam phaser, think I may have the same issue. Oil pressure has been consistent from what I have ran, but no idea what the last guy experienced. Great video, thanks for taking the time and being thorough.
@@ETMotorsports p0016 code and when I read with the scanner at idle it’s showing phase 1 @ 6 degrees even though everything related to the VVT is new and timing is perfect
it is possible that my solenoid to be a little lazy ? when i accelerate , sometimes it feels like he needs 2 seconds to wake up. !.6 FSI , no turbo, new spark plugs , new coils
@@ETMotorsports i received a code 1000km before, code was P0011 about over-advanced timing, the timing in aligned all good, the only thing i did it was changing the oil then appeard the error code, i cleaned the solenoid valve and didn't appear again but have the same symptoms , even some missfire when i accelerate, fuel pomp very good, injectors very good, on 015 and 016 no missfire, on 140 all good.i thing is a little bit advanced my camshaft intake or the variator with that pin got some throubles...
@@ETMotorsports Hi Emil, I'm eager to watch next episode, I have an Audi A4 Allroad 2.0 TDI 2014 230.000 Km, with Low Oil Pressure Warning on idle only after the oil gets around 100 deg.C. I already changed the Low Oil Pressure Sensor, oil and oil filter, the oil pomp reconditioned. I really felt your happiness when you said that you had solved the issue and after that was the opposite feeling. I have the same feeling that the issue will be solved only by changing the camshafts, the camshaft bridge, head cover or the entire head engine. Please take a look at the next YT video which I recently found: ruclips.net/video/9L7IVghYFwo/видео.html. Congrats mate for the great job you are doing. Please do not forget to load the new episode related to this issue! Best Regards! Iulian
@alisolieman4437 no bother at all... I'd take the balance shaft screens too... the only one I would leave is the vacuum/fuel pump screen because it's also a reducer... check it the second episode - I go into a lot of detail on the whole oil system
Hey don't remove the screen from the vacuum pump - it's not just a screen - it's a nozzle so it reduces the flow of oil to the pump... if you remove it you might have a problem with the oil pressure... check out the second video - I talk about that
The oil pressure issue is caused by a nut pushing chain guard below tensioner (that guard is worn out need to be replaced, check it by trying to move it back and forth)
@@obieoberstar There are two tensioners, chain tensioner, and cam tensioner (right below it) for exhaust and intake. Those intermediate cams (located on the engine block) have also the oil screens just like the bridge those get clogged. The cam pressure tensioner chain wears abd stretches, the tensioner pushes oil but if there is slack in the chain, there is no resistance to read pressure, and that is where the low oil pressure happens, besides the clogged screens from the intermediate I and E cams.
@@ETMotorsports you have the same port of oil whit a screen on the vac pump like on the cam bridge if the port is clog you will have the same warning for pressure drop on the head
Looked like needle bearings in the oil pan. Plus i think something is wrong with your intake cam. And wouldn't be surprised to see a bent valve. I bet it skipped time once. They fixed it. But still bent a valve causing a needle bearings in the pan from probably a rod or crank bearings. That engine would need a complete tear down unfortunately to really see what the problem is. Its not worth it on that car. Costs 1000s. 😢 sorry man. What did you end up doing? I know this vid is a couple years old.
Hey its me again! I got around to taking off timing cover and saw that the vvt solenoid plunger is stuck out. Can i clean my current cambridge and replace it? Already ordered a vvt solenoid and cam magnet.
@@ETMotorsports i have only taken off the cam magnet to verify the problem. Im going to remove the cambridge aswell and look for a cause. Im also going to replace my oil pump @2k rpms im a bit below spec and my oil light flashes above 2k rpms and when warm. I hope to fix the p0341 and then replace the oil pump and see if it fixes oil pressure.
@@ETMotorsports i have a vw cc. 2.0 tsi ccta. Symtoms: oil pressure below spec at 2k rpms, noise in valve cover and found vvt solenoid plunger stuck out. Whats on my list to do is replace the cambridge and vvt system. Then drop pan to look for oil pressure issues. Any advice is highly appreciated
@@ETMotorsports also im inexperienced. But would clearance in the engine bearings cause low oil pressure up higher in vvt for an example. Causing my issues? Ig the oil pump would be on a whim.. i was hoping a revised pump would add more pressure and get rid of the light. I know if my bearings are bad i might aswell take the entire thing apart but i was hoping to avoid it. Edit: all my mechanics have assumed engine bearing failure with how the oil pressure is acting. Im probably going to remove my oil pump after cambridge/vvt job is done, inspect it and see if it works good.
@@ETMotorsports i did watch both your videos on this problem. The first mechanic to do work on it was not experienced with these engines, but they replaced the balance shafts and timing components. Only reason i went to this mechanic first was because he was doing the job for parts only. My motor is on time now and had a brand new chain. So all im really worried about is the oil pressure now because i know it can make the timing job pointless since tensioners ect work on oil pressure.
@@ETMotorsports having had my balance shafts replaced already, i was hoping to find the oil pressure issues in my oil pump or cambridge/ cams. The plan was to do the cambridge job first. I was gonna look at my cambridge when i replace my vvt actuator. After that i was gonna look at the pump.
@@ETMotorsports intake cams r just problematic in this b8's...find intake cam too lose(plays), replaced without new Cambridge drives perfect for few months then hesitation & flashing epc light came back.. Opened facer only to find new cam plays again. Replaced Cambridge, intake cam + facer. Drives like a magic.
@@ETMotorsports ya eish..now battling with the high pitch whining when I accelerate..the higher the revs the higher that pitch comes..any idea wer is could be from?
@@ETMotorsports thought as much..will lift it then get someone gives it some gas .. hopefully it's not my cvt box.checked alternator and all front pulleys, tensioner,a/c & p/steering pump
Its not that the audi has a oil pressure problem its that its hard to find...you spend so much bs money trying to find the problem!! You spend more money trying to find the problem then you do fixing it!!!
My guess is that it was run with no oil pressure and damaged the main and rod bearings. (Ref chain links in oilpan) Cold engine=high oil pressure. No problem. Warm engine=low oil pressure. To much leakage at bearings to have «normal» oil pressure at low rpm.
Hey brotha. I got some fluctuation in the acceleration needle Also at low RPM like 1500RPM sometimes it feels like someone slowly pushes the brake. Any idea?
perfect example of a situation, were most of us think, it will be cheaper if i do it yourself. the dealer would of diagnosed that in minutes, change the 1 part thats at fault. and done. cheaper faster no headaches. coz now after all that time, parts and money, he most likely is going to end up at the dealership
let's for a second assume that the dealer or any other shop could actually diagnose this - the intake cam (which ended up being the problem) replacement at the dealership would run you well over 3k with the camshaft alone costing $1200USD+...add on top of that the timing work, balance shafts etc. you're in for an astronomical bill and that doesn't account for any diagnostic time, which believe me will be A LOT... Seeing as doing this myself, I was able to get the car actually fixed for less than about $2000 including all new oil pump, complete timing job, two new balance shafts, intake cam, cam bridge etc. and on top of that I actually learned a lot about this job....so sorry mate - neither this nor any of my other cars have ever been to the dealership, and on the rare occasions I've gone to actual expert shops, I've had to finish the jobs myself because of how little most mechanics do in terms of diagnostics... Unfortunately no dealer or shop out there can afford to spend any actual time diagnosing complex problems...you bring these symptoms to a shop the immediate answer will be "oil pump"...$1000+ later you've got a new oil pump and the exact same issue...that's then followed up by "balance shafts" - add another $2-3k in parts and labour to do balance shafts and timing chains and you still drive away with a car with the same exact problem...oh wait - what if we did the intake camshaft? add another $2-3k cause why not...not everybody wants to throw useless dollars in other people's pockets...some of us like to learn :)
I have the exact same issue going on with mine right now so thank you for the video and actually figuring out what the issue actually is . Now I can decide if I want to deal with it or not. Awesome job and again ty
This engine burns oil and leaks and when it happens the remaining oil gets heated more than it should which then breaks that screen and causes more issues.. This should be a recall, it's a failed design.
Bad phaser actuator and or also a bad cam all together! That engine got downshifted to hell! Remember the can lobes are pressed in ! Cam phaser actuator outer pin shall be flush with the phase and yours was not
Tengo el mismo problema ya reparé el motor completo todo nuevo y sigue la presión de aceite baja ya cambie la bomba los balanciadores los casquillo del motor los de bielas anillos ,y sigue igual cuando se calienta baja la presión del aceite a 10 libras y después sigue bajando a 4 0 5 libras y hay es cuando prende la luz del aceite. No e cambiado el faciador de admicion..por fin cual fue él problema si lo encontró..😊
I'm in this situation and the last thing I want is to go down that rabbit hole of replacing part after part hoping one will fix it. However, at least he's doing something the hard work of putting the video together so the rest of us can learn from it.
Tommy I am lost for words. This man has put in the time, patience, logic and rationale that even the average dealer tech will not do. I am thankful for his post and all that can be learned from it.
I just watched your video I did not read any of the comments so this may already be posted. Those pins that you found in the oil pan go in the camshaft phaser
Your videos are always the best man. I'm currently attempting to diagnose an oil pressure issue on my 2010 Volkswagen CC. I hooked up a mechanical to see what oil pressure was present on the vehicle. When the engine is warm, it reads around 10 PSI at idle and at 2k it goes up to 30 or so PSI. As far as the reading I have come across, its pretty low or at the lower ends of minimum by specs.
I decided to start easy, I pulled the oil pan and saw that someone had already been there and replaced the oil pump with an "aftermarket" pump that seems to be in working order. The pick up tube looks clean as well and no wear metal or glitter inside the oil pan. Second thing I decided to do was to take off the upper timing cover to see the cam bridge and oil valve. It appears that both cams are brand new and the cam bridge is a valco brand cam bridge and it has the revised screen (one that doesn't blow out haha). Also, the timing chain is the double linked one (revised version) and the tensioner as well.
This leads to to believe that maybe my oil pressure issues are coming from the balance shafts. Any suggestions would be appreciated my guy!
hmm...it sounds like somebody's been chasing this issue for a while and already dumped a few thousand dollars on it...what is the car doing? is it giving you a warning for oil pressure? epc light? hesitation at 1500rpm? any codes for intake cam adjustment?
I know a lot of people say the balance shafts can cause issues but if you watch the second video I posted dealing with this oil pressure issue, I`m not exactly sure how the balance shafts can cause low oil pressure...there's nowhere for the oil pressure to escape - at least not that I can see...on this car the issue ended up being the intake cam adjustment phasor...I replaced the cam to get it to stop throwing the EPC light at 1500rpm...you could see scoring on the bearing surface but I think it was the phasor which was "leaking" oil...
that's not to say the balance shafts can't be a problem but on my car, they were still spinning freely...
@@ETMotorsports I appreciate for the reply brother. This vehicle has been used and abused. For example the 02E trans was full of ATF and wasn’t engaging gears. I manage to flush it out as best as possible and put some liquid moly in it. Now it shifts smoothly but still having a low oil pressure code that comes up but seems to be functional.
As far as the low oil pressure on engine side. I’m going change cams that u pulled from the local junk yard (they appear to be in great condition compared to the old ones. Only real wear I have noticed, the girdle cap (valve cover 🤷) has significant scoring on the caps. Odd thing is, the actual cylinder head looks pretty good. The cam lobs look good but the touching surface to ride ok the cylinder head and the girdle cap look scratch to hell, cams and girdle cap. That could of been from the ridiculous amount of RTV someone put to seal the girdle cap. It honestly looks like someone had a medical emergency while holding an RTV tube.
I changed both balance shafts. The exhaust one had blown screens and one missing and the plastic cover looked kinda eaten up at the passenger side portion of it. I should be able to get it all squared away today before end of day (central time) I’ll report back.
Again, thank you for your videos and your help! Cheers from Smyrna Tennessee.
@@ETMotorsports hey brother, sorry for the delay. I figured I would report back with my findings and experience.
I solved my low oil pressure issues. I replace both intake and exhaust cams with used but in great shape. Also, both balance shafts. I also went up in oil weight to 10w40 and the car runs great.
Thanks for the video man! Love your channel.
You did an excellent job with this detailed video. Thank you for sharing your experience and time with us.
thank you so much! this video really helped me understand how the system works and great detail.....GREAT JOB!
You sir I hope your Chanel takes off this is one of the best Audi brake down I have seen subbed
Thanks for the note!!
Good afternoon,
I am Jerónimo from Wölfecar Argentina.
Your video is very good and you have done a good job with this TSI.
As you have been told, there is a non-return valve at the base of the cylinder head that must be checked.
Your efforts have not ended well, because the camshaft housings in the cylinder head tend to get loose, where the pressure leaks.
The camshafts must be replaced and their housings in the cylinder head rectified.
Good luck!
Wölfecar 👨🔧
Thank you for the comments - check out episode 2...I ended up replacing the camshaft
@@ETMotorsports Yeah, but you have to place bushings in the camshaft housings of the head. Otherwise, line pressure is lost there. 💁🏻♂️
Hola Jeronimo. From Uruguay. Same problem. Gone through the entire sequence of problems. I have actually bouhght a new intake shaft and that is my last chance. Tell me what kind of bushings do you have in Argentina to locate on the housings? Probably I will find the housings in bad conditions, but these are alluminium. Do you handle any kind of bearings to be able to rectify and add to original diameter?@@jeronimolobos7648
Great job. Sorry you’re going through this. I’ve got a similar problem. Just did a valve job on my wife’s 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI engine with all new chains, water pump, Tstat, injectors, tune up, coils, etc. Was working fine except for the lean code. Replaced the PCV valve, same thing. Then the PO341, POO11 & POOOA showed up. All cam timing issues. Plus. I started having cam phaser noises after the engine warms up. If I disconnect the phaser solenoid, no noise. So. I did the same thing you did, put a used phaser solenoid in it. Funny thing. The lean code disappeared (I guess that’s where the vac leak was/is), but the cam issues are still there. So. I’m going to start with the oil pressure solenoid & go from there. I hope the stupid phaser itself isn’t defective because that would mean having to pull the whole front of the engine back apart. What a piece of crap these engines are. I have a TDI diesel 2013 Jetta with virtually no issues. I’m a GM tech by trade and have a Tahoe w/an LS 5.3L V8. No issues out of 180,000 miles. Still runs strong. I’ll share anything I learn about this cam phaser/oil pressure deal.
Check out episode 2 :)
I have similar problem, like you. With my vw scirocco 2.0 tsi. can you share me how to fix it.
When i disconnect the selenoid which adjust camshaft, it have no noise!! Thanks you very much!!
I still need to pull this piece of crap apart again. I’m doing it next weekend. Going to replace the intake cam & phaser.
@@stevejohnson29 I’m an Audi master tech, if you did a timing job the spool valve that’s reverse threads on the intake cam HAS to be at 10nm (I think I can’t remember) if it’s too tight it will throw intake cam over retarded codes
Wow. That’s not much torque. I’ll check that. I kinda doubt that’s the problem. But. I’ll try. I’ve been driving the thing for several months now. I leave the cam solenoid unplugged. Makes like a rattling noise when I’m just barely giving it throttle. 1/16 or less. But. As soon as I go to 1/8 or 1/4 throttle, the turbo kicks in & the rattle noise goes away. Pretty sure it’s not from the bottom end. I have a feeling the cam phaser is jacked after 105k. So. I’m going to order an intake cam and throw it in with a new valve and solenoid. We’ll see if that fixes it. It doesn’t have any low oil pressure problems. (No oil light).
Thanks for the video, you defiantly need to rebuild the engine, the plastic in the oil pan and pick up tube are a good sign of internal problem and oil passages blockage, check your timing chain guides and pull out the balancer shafts for screen inspection. good luck.
Intake cam is shot in this car. There is a bridge on the front of both camshafts that direct oil from a passage from the bottom of the cylinder head to the intake cam. If you pull that off (you will need a special tool for the spool valve and it has reverse threads) you will likely see a small screen and metal ball that are supposed to be there not there. Both the screen and the ball clog the oil passage to the intake cam or ruin the intake cam phaser itself causing oil pressure issues or correlation faults with misfires. There used to be a bulletin as well for the inlet passage for the cam bridge being very clogged causing the need for cylinder head replacement. Those little pins and plastic you’re seeing I suspect are needle bearings from your rockers and you’re seeing small bits of your chain guides in the pan.
I agree the needle's are part of the rockers ! The ball under the schreen in bridge should be there i think ! But since i work on the 1.8 l 2015 jeta i dont remember seeing a ball in it under screen onless someone before me pulled out at timing chain drivve ! Other than that After i put new timing chain on my jetta after i done and started up the yellow and red oil lite sembol stays on i wonder if that ball is missing at check valve is my problem !??? Oh I ought Car on Auction w bad engine thats why i realy dont know the history of the car . I tought the job will e ease change the bad bent valves , but i gess the surface on cam and head cover accured from screen ! ???
I agree. The roller in the oil pan is from the cam follower. A rocker or finger follower failed. The tappet shaft pulled out of the roller and the needles went everywhere. Oil pressure controls the follower contact against the cam. I suspect that assembly is in pieces. This results in uncontrolled oil flow hence low oil pressure. Like a garden hose with no nozzle versus garden hose with a nozzle. You have to remove the valve cover. Why no misfire? Maybe due to four valves per cylinder. Great video though. Especially for us DIYers.
Are you a VW tech by chance? If so, I had a question. I just did a valve job on my wife’s 2010 Tiguan 2.0 TSI engine with all new chains, tensioners, guides, water pump, Tstat, injectors, tune up, coils, etc. Was working fine except for the lean code. Replaced the PCV valve, same thing. Then the PO341, POO11 & POOOA showed up. All cam timing issues. Plus. I started having cam phaser noises after the engine warms up at about 1300 RPM no load in park. If I disconnect the phaser solenoid, no noise. So I put a used phaser solenoid in it. Funny thing. The lean code disappeared (I guess that’s where the vac leak was/is), but the cam phaser code issues are still there. So. I’m going to start with the oil pressure solenoid & go from there. I hope the stupid phaser itself isn’t defective because that would mean having to pull the whole front of the engine back apart. Any ideas?
100% common issue especially when through a cam correlation error
@@stevejohnson29 what did you find in this? I have similar symptoms after a timing job and replacing all the sensors
I just watched your video I did not read any of the comments so this may already be posted. Those pins that you found in the oil pan go in the camshaft phaser
Possibly balance shafts. You need to take the chains off again, but I would check the balance shafts (intake in particular). There are 4 oil holes with tiny screens in them that tend to clog with debris. The shaft replacement is easy, dealing with the chains is the difficult part.
I'm currently attempting to diagnose an oil pressure issue on my 2010 Volkswagen CC. I hooked up a mechanical to see what oil pressure was present on the vehicle. When the engine is warm, it reads around 10 PSI at idle and at 2k it goes up to 30 or so PSI. As far as the reading I have come across, its pretty low or at the lower ends of minimum by specs.
I decided to start easy, I pulled the oil pan and saw that someone had already been there and replaced the oil pump with an "aftermarket" pump that seems to be in working order. The pick up tube looks clean as well and no wear metal or glitter inside the oil pan. Second thing I decided to do was to take off the upper timing cover to see the cam bridge and oil valve. It appears that both cams are brand new and the cam bridge is a valco brand cam bridge and it has the revised screen (one that doesn't blow out haha). Also, the timing chain is the double linked one (revised version) and the tensioner as well.
This leads to to believe that maybe my oil pressure issues are coming from the balance shafts. Any suggestions would be appreciated my guy!
Rebuild the engine, the issue is with the bearings. And while doing that, check the cams if they don't have any marks. But rebuilding it will help you and also inspect the balance shafts. They also have screen that normally block the oil passage
NO, it would be knocking at idle and metal shavings in the oil pan.
I had a similar issue and mine needed a new camshaft. There is a spring loaded pin that locks the cam shaft in place when the engine is off. It got stuck because of sludge build up from using conventional motor oil or going way to long between oil changes. Made a horrific noise when starting but went away within seconds. New cam shaft fixed the problem.
@@ETMotorsports also that debris in the oil pan was from the timing chain guides getting chewed up from a stretched chain with a tensioner that was maximum travel and could no longer keep it tight. I think they caught the chain just before it broke because if it would have snapped the entire top end would have been rebuilt. Or perhaps it did snap and it was rebuilt but you can almost always tell if the motor had been tore apart. Really good video BTW!
Intake cam or exhaust cam? Which one do you think needs to be replaced?
Thank you for the detailed video!
thank you for the video!
also, no spark plugs and disconnect the fuel pump so not to flood the engine
Just replace the intake camshaft and the camshaft bridge you can start with the easy stuff and replace the camshaft bridge that was the culprit with every single vehicle I rebuilt that issue was coming up the little rattle at 1500 RPM and EPC light comes on
Молодец, круто, мой двигатель так-же болеет.
Буду лечить.
My daughter called me frantic about her Tigua making engine rattle noise. My 21 year old grandson who knows it all, told me he changed several parts that Autozone said it needed due to camshaft timing codes etc. It was still making the noise so he called me. I have been an oilfield mechanic for 50 years but my grandson thinks I know nothing about new tech stuff. Well I get there and the first thing I do is check the high tech dipstick and found no oil on it. I filled it with oil and it is quiet as a mouse. VW says if it's low on oil the VVT and timing sensor will give timing codes. It needs a full crankcase to operate correctly. It seems dipsticks of today are the same as 50 years ago and 21 year olds still think they know it all as when I was 21.
The pin is from at rocker arm bearing! That a high rpm engine that got sifted into too much of a low gear
very good job, instructive for us. thank you. i suscribed.
Fixed mine by replacing the balance shafts
this comes from the oil pump in the crankcase, the brush is overgrown with foreign materials in the oil and from there there is low pressure in the distribution valve. that's where the throttle valve error comes from
Not that it matters now...two years later but... what you found in the oil pan looked very much like a roller bearing from one of the rocker arms. A rocker arm fell off, got chewed up and is causing reduced oil pressure because the hydraulic lifter is partially out or in position but freely spewing unrestricted oil out of the top.......causing low oil pressure and loose parts are making the ticking noise. These engines will run "normally" even missing one rocker arm, especially and exhaust one. Been there done exactly THAT.....MAYBE.
that's what the general consensus is but I didn't find any mechanical issues with the motor when I pulled everything apart...the balance shafts and cams showed some wear but nothing to point to a failed bearing or anything like that...to be honest the metal bits in the oil pan remain unexplained unless the previous owner changed the head after failure but didn't bother to clean the oil pan...
Hi buddy! I really like your way of explaining things, it comes easy for me to understand. Obviously I have this shitty 2.0T but beside "Switch off engine and check oil level" I also have problems with EPC Do not exceed 4k RPM. Any chance you have a video addressing that problem too so I can follow your steps?
Bless you!
Hey - go see the second episode - I fixed the exact problem you're describing... the EPC and oil issue comes down to intake cam shaft
@@ETMotorsports that one will be next after I will finish with this video. Thanks again and God bless you!
@@ETMotorsports and btw, your face expression at 44:35 I feel you bro, I ended up in that situation way too many times with this engine, exhausting is just a sweeet way to put it.
GOD DOES KNOW but was the crankshaft and bearings done? Not forgetting those of the balancer shafts. The dirt in the oil channels did pack up somewhere. You need to locate what is called oil dump along the way. Many many techs struggle with this Engine, do it by the book surgically and charge like a medical doctor too. It's quite demanding to get it right.
Hello,this was a huge help.
Also the problem I am having with the same car is,I am only having oil pressure warning light only at idle after warm up,I replaced all the sensors,new oil,filter all original ones.
I hope you can help me and let me know where to start.
Thank you so much,I see you know a lot about these cars.
@@ETMotorsports can you please send me the link of that episode,I scroll through but did not see it
Thanks alot
Episode two is for mercedes,was wondering if you know anything about 2009 audi a4 2.0T
Thanks.
I just did timing chain on my a4 my assumption is that it looks like it has the newer guides sold to the previous owner, change, timing chain and somehow messed up the cams and it was off time. Lucky he didn’t bent valves.
Good job though man. These motors are the worst POS Audi ever put out on the market. Only thing that helps! BLOW IT UP
@@ETMotorsports Im working on a 2011 , basically same shit motor. new chain , pump, waterpump, and serviced , only 84k on it , its throwing a coolent performance fault, any good tricks of fixing this ? plus we're trying to pass emissions on this shit too, we have Catalyst Mon check left in the readiness that never sets status to OK . It's just reporting N/A . we rock a 3 inch Race Cat on it so that shouldn't be a problem, plus new sensors upstream / downstream.
Great job man
Great video and than you for taking the time.
Can you link the 5 star Torx for removing the bolts?
sorry for the slow reply...this is the set I used:
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01IUCONNY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
but like I said in the video there's really no point in opening these up - you can't service them
did you put the screen back on........ what does do you have now ? is it possible that the phaser was not re installed properly ? because it was working better than that before you touched it....... just trying to help......... you have a lot of patience ....... best way to learn is directing like you did. did you torque the bolts ........ just trying to help.
Sounds to me like the solenoid valve for the variable timing. My vw has low oil pressure after cruising. Hit the gas and it goes away
same here, I have already replaced my high and low oil pressure sensors as well as oil pump. problem still persists
LO SOLUCIONO?
Hi. I have exactly the same problem as you. Finished dismantling the phasers, the same wear marks you found, reasembled everything and no good. Would you tell me if you finally solved the problem? Changed the intake shaft? Found spare phasers to replace? I would greately appreciate your comment. Its a lot of work to be able to remove and change the camshaft.
Hey you can see episode 2 - I had to replace the intake cam... it wasn't too bad
I am also getting same issue what is normal temperature of engine oil I have vw passat tsi 1.8 manual transmission getting issues while driving car after 20 to 30 mins engine oil temperature goes 124 degrees C" after that car getting error ' Check Engine service now ' then engine off automatically and goes into safe mode then we had scan the error has come ' cam Shaft position sensor range performance P0341' after one hour car start normally plz suggest ur experience about this fault ...
Have you tried the exhaust valve solenoid? If your misfire us in the same cyl., try switching the exh solenoid and see if the misfire follows the solenoid. My 09 tsfi has the same issue but have not tried all you have done, but will try the bridge and cleaning the pick up screen, a running compression test and maybe the fuel injector since mine is strictly #4.
Would love to hear back from you if the solenoid swap fixed your car. Thanx Mark
I rebuilt my a4 2.0t and had similar plastic in mine it was chunks from the shroud that goes in/around the exhaust side balance shaft it broke and melted into chunks it was a pain to clean out all the little chunks
@@ETMotorsports I have the same problem.low oil pressure in idle. Also replaced oil pump & all sensors & the bottom solenoid. I’ve also encountered plastic debris in oil pan, turned out to be the exhaust balance shaft sleeve that melted out, replaced it with a new one & melted again so I removed it completely as I don’t think will hurt anything.
No solution for me but the car seems to run fine except for the annoying warning & cam crank correlation code. I’ll run it till it dies.
I really think that some oil passages are clogged due to all the melted plastic debris.
@@ETMotorsports oil gets thinner at higher temperatures. Mine starts throwing the warning when it reaches normal temperature. I doesn’t do it when cold. I’ve also tried oil pressures boosters from Lucas products with no luck.
@@ETMotorsports I think in the passageways in the block, since that’s where the plastic sleeve melted. There are oil ducts all around the balance shaft that could’ve gotten clogged. I really hope someone proves me wrong & it’s something simpler than that.
Its my understanding that thinner oil means lower oil pressure, but I could be wrong.
I think it’s scoring on the end of the cam shafts and cam bridge cannot properly transfer oil
I have the same issue at 1800 RPM. The problem is the wear of the phase regulator blades. It's just not holding the pressure and doesn't make the adjustment at low RPM. Mine is making the pressure at 2200 rpm. Below this speed, the engine trembles and struggles to build power. Additionally, as a fault code, you will get random misfires on all 4 cylinders.
yeah in this case it seems replacing the intake cam is the best way forward
I'm having low oil pressure also. Car is in service. Cam bridge screen broken, camshaft ends damaged.
I have the same problem, but mine have a misfire at low RPM, I'm going to do the same you do, wish me luck
Did you see the second episode? I go into details about the system and the epc misfire at 1200rpm
@@ETMotorsports nop.. I didn't see it.. let me check it
I have the question in 39 min you show, how the actuator and phaser valve work. IT could make rattle sound becacuse i have problem with this probably. After warm up, it rattle on idle. THANKS
thank you, appreciate it
Great feet back.thanks.
I have similar problem with 2010 Tiguan 2.0L
Low oil pressure, engine off.. Changed oil pressure sensor.. still dint fix..
Check engine light comes and goes in 900-1100 rpm when we give slower throttle every-time after driving 20-30min. Not seeing the warning with fast throttle.
OBD2 says p0341
It could be the issue with cam bridge screen? Any suggestions?
hey - if you watch the second episode, I actually fixed it by replacing the intake camshaft...0341 is an intake cam code...what happens is the intake cam phaser gets screwed up and starts losing oil...you see the CEL at 1100rpm because that's when the adjustment starts and it's not working as it should causing the oil pressure and the code
What tool do you use to rotate the cam phaser as I have a similar problem and nees to check my intake cm phaser too?
Rotate or open?
Belisimo ! nice job my friend ........ tell me the bolts on the pan , were they aluminum or steel, because I did the pan on my transmission and a few bolts broke on me..... the engine oil pan use the same garbage bolts.
@@ETMotorsports im thinking or replacing my pan, but my transmission 6mm alum bolts ........ I spent 5 hrs to drill 4 out without damaging the threads ........ I don't feel like going through that again. thanks anyways.
The 3 aluminum bolts are only for the magnet on the intake cam. I've seen steel ones there too. They could have been swapped to oil pan by mistake. Same size.
So what was the oil issue? Did the spring under the oil filter the fix?
I cant find the link to the special tool to take apart the phaser. Can you post it here please?
Hey here's the set but there's no point in ordering it - there's nothing you can do to fix the phaser if you open it
RAM-PRO 9Pc Torx Star 5 Point,... www.amazon.ca/dp/B01IUCONNY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mersi za videoto Emo :) Nauchih dosta!
Whooo boy those are the needles out of a needle bearing think balance shafts
hello, sorry to bother you.
I have the following problem, VW PASSAT VARIAND TSI 200 horses, no oil pressure, the oil pump has been replaced, the shaft support, the phase control valve, after the soy oil, we opened the shaft and saw that the blades are playing sideways and there is a gap on the right, is it possible that this is where the problem is and that it falls the pressure.
@@ETMotorsports
it says EPC check as an error and that there is no synchronization in the gas distribution shaft and ep2 I don't know what it means
n205, cam bridge, intake cam phaser ( change intake cam) , low oil or oil pressure low timing. These should solve the problem.
@@ETMotorsports replace the intake cam. Hopefully It should resolve the epc and vct issues.
1.8 tsi bzb stop oil pressure engine off owners red summer is on, only engine cooling temperature is 95° and 104° is on. It does it when it approaches 2000 rpm. There is no problem when it is cold, please help
Thanks...thats what I think my prob.is too
Thanks for sharing your experience, however the restrictions is on your top chain gard, it's to big normal small gard will free the following of the chain, and increase your oil pressure
Sorry mate - that's 100% wrong... the chain guard has nothing to do with the oil pressure... if it was restricting the chain in any way you'd have much more serious issues... this was fixed wth a new intake cam - you can see it in the second episode
I just put a new crank sensor, cam sensor, timing chain kit, new magnet and vvt valve. The car started perfectly, but when I shut it off and restarted the problem came back right away. At 720 RPM idle it says the "Phase Position - Bank 1 intake is at 13.22" I think the spec is at +/- 2, and before I did the timing it was at a 9, so basically, I made it worse. I took the upper timing chain off and I am measuring that everything is perfectly timed. The cambridge was missing the screen, but had the brass retaining ring for it. Any thoughts? Take the Cam Phaser apart?
Hmm there's nothing you can really do taking the phaser apart... if it's bad it's bad... so the phase is measured with the cam and crank position sensors so if your timing is correct and the magnet is new then really the only thing I can think of is the cam... yes that's really the phaser itself but you can't fix it so you'd have to get a new cam... that's the only thing that finally fixed my issues
But what actual problem are you dealing with?
Did you see the second episode?
@@ETMotorsports Appreciate the reply. I had swapped the cam sensor for the old as part of troubleshooting and just put the new on. Magnet is now responding again and the Phase position Bank 1 intake went to 6.9. I also did another compression test and it looks perfect like no bent valves and consistent pressure with no leak down. I watched your second video and am going to grab a cam phaser, think I may have the same issue. Oil pressure has been consistent from what I have ran, but no idea what the last guy experienced. Great video, thanks for taking the time and being thorough.
@@ETMotorsports great video! Thank you
@@ETMotorsports p0016 code and when I read with the scanner at idle it’s showing phase 1 @ 6 degrees even though everything related to the VVT is new and timing is perfect
it is possible that my solenoid to be a little lazy ? when i accelerate , sometimes it feels like he needs 2 seconds to wake up. !.6 FSI , no turbo, new spark plugs , new coils
@@ETMotorsports i received a code 1000km before, code was P0011 about over-advanced timing, the timing in aligned all good, the only thing i did it was changing the oil then appeard the error code, i cleaned the solenoid valve and didn't appear again but have the same symptoms , even some missfire when i accelerate, fuel pomp very good, injectors very good, on 015 and 016 no missfire, on 140 all good.i thing is a little bit advanced my camshaft intake or the variator with that pin got some throubles...
Thank you
Did you fix it?, I’m thinking putting new head on it and clean the block and new gasket, what you think
@@ETMotorsports Hi Emil, I'm eager to watch next episode, I have an Audi A4 Allroad 2.0 TDI 2014 230.000 Km, with Low Oil Pressure Warning on idle only after the oil gets around 100 deg.C. I already changed the Low Oil Pressure Sensor, oil and oil filter, the oil pomp reconditioned. I really felt your happiness when you said that you had solved the issue and after that was the opposite feeling. I have the same feeling that the issue will be solved only by changing the camshafts, the camshaft bridge, head cover or the entire head engine. Please take a look at the next YT video which I recently found: ruclips.net/video/9L7IVghYFwo/видео.html. Congrats mate for the great job you are doing. Please do not forget to load the new episode related to this issue! Best Regards! Iulian
What about a stretched balance shaft chain
Are you the movie actor of punisher?
Does a 2013 tiguan have 2 sensors also?
2 sensors? You mean oil pressure valves?
Sensors. You mentioned 2 sensors in this engine.
8:08 needle bearings
need that 5 star security socket for intake cam gear phaser, mfg name and part number, not able to find it, thank you
Please put the link for the tool. I believe its a torx plus but not 100% sure the size
I think it's called a security torx 5 star - I picked it up from Amazon
please i wanna ask u when u replaced the new cam bridge ,have u removed the screen or keep it , i mean is it better to leave it or remove it
Remove 100%
@@ETMotorsports and keep its outer cover or no need
@@ETMotorsports u r realy great man amazing work from u ive watched ur second video thanks really
@@ETMotorsports and my last question is it better to remove balance shaft screens or keep it sorry if i bothered u bro
@alisolieman4437 no bother at all... I'd take the balance shaft screens too... the only one I would leave is the vacuum/fuel pump screen because it's also a reducer... check it the second episode - I go into a lot of detail on the whole oil system
Am starting to think the engine needed a flush, because as you add "clean" parts things work for a while, and then everything gets dirty again.
hello please i wanna ask u if their any problem to remove the screen from vaccum pump on tiguan plzzz reply
Hey don't remove the screen from the vacuum pump - it's not just a screen - it's a nozzle so it reduces the flow of oil to the pump... if you remove it you might have a problem with the oil pressure... check out the second video - I talk about that
@@ETMotorsports can u send for me the video link please
@@ETMotorsports thanks for reply i always watch ur videos but yesterday i removed the filter from the vaccum pump i hope to never damage my motor
@@alisolieman4437 ruclips.net/video/NJp85pRqrm8/видео.html
Did you ever fix it?
The oil pressure issue is caused by a nut pushing chain guard below tensioner (that guard is worn out need to be replaced, check it by trying to move it back and forth)
I am trying to understand your theory. What nut are your referring to? Thanks for your reply.
@@obieoberstar There are two tensioners, chain tensioner, and cam tensioner (right below it) for exhaust and intake. Those intermediate cams (located on the engine block) have also the oil screens just like the bridge those get clogged.
The cam pressure tensioner chain wears abd stretches, the tensioner pushes oil but if there is slack in the chain, there is no resistance to read pressure, and that is where the low oil pressure happens, besides the clogged screens from the intermediate I and E cams.
i'm just seeing your post but where are these screens located..i have a ccta vw 2.0l 2012
Pins are from rockers - that’s my guess
vacuum pump problem can throw you this warning of oil pressure the car seem to run good check this before open the engine
@@ETMotorsports you have the same port of oil whit a screen on the vac pump like on the cam bridge if the port is clog you will have the same warning for pressure drop on the head
Looked like needle bearings in the oil pan. Plus i think something is wrong with your intake cam. And wouldn't be surprised to see a bent valve. I bet it skipped time once. They fixed it. But still bent a valve causing a needle bearings in the pan from probably a rod or crank bearings. That engine would need a complete tear down unfortunately to really see what the problem is. Its not worth it on that car. Costs 1000s. 😢 sorry man. What did you end up doing? I know this vid is a couple years old.
Also brings the rocker arms into question. They have needle bearings as well.
You have a serious problem with the timing chain misfire, black plastic in pan and engine light tell your cam is out
Part 2:
ruclips.net/video/NJp85pRqrm8/видео.html
Hey its me again! I got around to taking off timing cover and saw that the vvt solenoid plunger is stuck out. Can i clean my current cambridge and replace it? Already ordered a vvt solenoid and cam magnet.
@@ETMotorsports i have only taken off the cam magnet to verify the problem. Im going to remove the cambridge aswell and look for a cause. Im also going to replace my oil pump @2k rpms im a bit below spec and my oil light flashes above 2k rpms and when warm. I hope to fix the p0341 and then replace the oil pump and see if it fixes oil pressure.
@@ETMotorsports i have a vw cc. 2.0 tsi ccta. Symtoms: oil pressure below spec at 2k rpms, noise in valve cover and found vvt solenoid plunger stuck out. Whats on my list to do is replace the cambridge and vvt system. Then drop pan to look for oil pressure issues. Any advice is highly appreciated
@@ETMotorsports also im inexperienced. But would clearance in the engine bearings cause low oil pressure up higher in vvt for an example. Causing my issues? Ig the oil pump would be on a whim.. i was hoping a revised pump would add more pressure and get rid of the light. I know if my bearings are bad i might aswell take the entire thing apart but i was hoping to avoid it. Edit: all my mechanics have assumed engine bearing failure with how the oil pressure is acting. Im probably going to remove my oil pump after cambridge/vvt job is done, inspect it and see if it works good.
@@ETMotorsports i did watch both your videos on this problem. The first mechanic to do work on it was not experienced with these engines, but they replaced the balance shafts and timing components. Only reason i went to this mechanic first was because he was doing the job for parts only. My motor is on time now and had a brand new chain. So all im really worried about is the oil pressure now because i know it can make the timing job pointless since tensioners ect work on oil pressure.
@@ETMotorsports having had my balance shafts replaced already, i was hoping to find the oil pressure issues in my oil pump or cambridge/ cams. The plan was to do the cambridge job first. I was gonna look at my cambridge when i replace my vvt actuator. After that i was gonna look at the pump.
i have the same issue on golf 6 gti ccz 2010 model.i have been trying to figure it out myself
@@ETMotorsports intake cams r just problematic in this b8's...find intake cam too lose(plays), replaced without new Cambridge drives perfect for few months then hesitation & flashing epc light came back.. Opened facer only to find new cam plays again. Replaced Cambridge, intake cam + facer. Drives like a magic.
@@ETMotorsports yes it was not locking anymore.. I just didn't take a video but it was bad. The pieces of screen find them at hp pump..
@@ETMotorsports ya eish..now battling with the high pitch whining when I accelerate..the higher the revs the higher that pitch comes..any idea wer is could be from?
@@ETMotorsports thought as much..will lift it then get someone gives it some gas .. hopefully it's not my cvt box.checked alternator and all front pulleys, tensioner,a/c & p/steering pump
Cvt Drivetrain whining confirmed ...
I was thinking screen too
Its not that the audi has a oil pressure problem its that its hard to find...you spend so much bs money trying to find the problem!! You spend more money trying to find the problem then you do fixing it!!!
My guess is that it was run with no oil pressure and damaged the main and rod bearings. (Ref chain links in oilpan) Cold engine=high oil pressure. No problem. Warm engine=low oil pressure. To much leakage at bearings to have «normal» oil pressure at low rpm.
Hey brotha. I got some fluctuation in the acceleration needle Also at low RPM like 1500RPM sometimes it feels like someone slowly pushes the brake. Any idea?
The problem has to be we my fix what caused the problem but not fix what else happen during the problem!!
perfect example of a situation, were most of us think, it will be cheaper if i do it yourself. the dealer would of diagnosed that in minutes, change the 1 part thats at fault. and done. cheaper faster no headaches. coz now after all that time, parts and money, he most likely is going to end up at the dealership
let's for a second assume that the dealer or any other shop could actually diagnose this - the intake cam (which ended up being the problem) replacement at the dealership would run you well over 3k with the camshaft alone costing $1200USD+...add on top of that the timing work, balance shafts etc. you're in for an astronomical bill and that doesn't account for any diagnostic time, which believe me will be A LOT...
Seeing as doing this myself, I was able to get the car actually fixed for less than about $2000 including all new oil pump, complete timing job, two new balance shafts, intake cam, cam bridge etc. and on top of that I actually learned a lot about this job....so sorry mate - neither this nor any of my other cars have ever been to the dealership, and on the rare occasions I've gone to actual expert shops, I've had to finish the jobs myself because of how little most mechanics do in terms of diagnostics...
Unfortunately no dealer or shop out there can afford to spend any actual time diagnosing complex problems...you bring these symptoms to a shop the immediate answer will be "oil pump"...$1000+ later you've got a new oil pump and the exact same issue...that's then followed up by "balance shafts" - add another $2-3k in parts and labour to do balance shafts and timing chains and you still drive away with a car with the same exact problem...oh wait - what if we did the intake camshaft? add another $2-3k cause why not...not everybody wants to throw useless dollars in other people's pockets...some of us like to learn :)
I have the exact same issue going on with mine right now so thank you for the video and actually figuring out what the issue actually is . Now I can decide if I want to deal with it or not. Awesome job and again ty
This engine burns oil and leaks and when it happens the remaining oil gets heated more than it should which then breaks that screen and causes more issues.. This should be a recall, it's a failed design.
I'm not sure it's oil temp that's responsible - it's brittle plastic that just falls apart
roller bearing
balance shafts
Bad phaser actuator and or also a bad cam all together! That engine got downshifted to hell! Remember the can lobes are pressed in ! Cam phaser actuator outer pin shall be flush with the phase and yours was not
Frustrating AF.
Tengo el mismo problema ya reparé el motor completo todo nuevo y sigue la presión de aceite baja ya cambie la bomba los balanciadores los casquillo del motor los de bielas anillos ,y sigue igual cuando se calienta baja la presión del aceite a 10 libras y después sigue bajando a 4 0 5 libras y hay es cuando prende la luz del aceite. No e cambiado el faciador de admicion..por fin cual fue él problema si lo encontró..😊
My God you are not diagnostic mechanic .your or just part changer .
Where can I find your video?
I'm in this situation and the last thing I want is to go down that rabbit hole of replacing part after part hoping one will fix it. However, at least he's doing something the hard work of putting the video together so the rest of us can learn from it.
Tommy I am lost for words. This man has put in the time, patience, logic and rationale that even the average dealer tech will not do. I am thankful for his post and all that can be learned from it.
I just watched your video I did not read any of the comments so this may already be posted. Those pins that you found in the oil pan go in the camshaft phaser