How to fix excessive oil consumption from clogged piston rings (Part 3) - Final verdict and Q&A
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In the third part of the oil consumption series, I do the 5000km oil change on my Audi Q5 and check the status of the engine after the piston soak process. After that I answer the most common questions I received in the previous two videos
"I am simply surprised! I am currently driving a 2012 Audi A4 with 120,000 miles on it. Before the piston cleaning procedure, my car used to burn 1.5 quarts of oil every 700 miles. However, after the procedure, I have now covered 600 miles and there has been no noticeable change in the oil level. Thank you again for this solution and for saving me a lot of money. Please continue posting this type of helpful videos. Best regards."🤝🤝
Awesome results!! Glad it worked
Thats awesome! may i know what procedures did you apply? i have Similar issue for 2012 q5 2.0 T burning a quart every 300 miles! Its drives awesome with only 102 miles in it right now. thanks
@@ETMotorsportsyour videos are very helpful. I am from Toronto and my Audi q5 burning 1.5 litres engine oil every 1k kilometres. I am fine to come to Ottawa, can I get your appointment to do piston soak for my Audi q5. Appreciate your coordination.
I normally park my car by the mailbox and throw the spark plugs in from the front door, NEVER missed a single one in 30 years. True story.
Under rated comment 😂
Main ingredient in the B-12 PN#0116 is Toluene. You can buy 3.78L of Toluene at Canadian tire for $59.99. I have used it to remove carbon deposits in diesel and gas engines. Wear protective gloves and eye wear when handling. I am a retired diesel mechanic and agree the best fix is to install new pistons rings etc. But on a ROI it's worth trying to dissolve the build up behind the rings and getting the combustion pressure in the cylinders back to pushing the backside of the piston rings. This makes a better seal against the cylinder walls which helps oil consumption and drivability issues.
Just so you know Santa is watching and he cries when he watches you drop sparkplugs into the cylinders.
Согласен полностью, так свечи кидать в колодцы нельзя
Hmm worth a try - might pick up a jug next time around
Be careful not to strip the cylinder walls dry.
Decided to do a carbon clean and piston soak on my 2005 Audi A4 B7 2.0TFSI with 173K miles on the clock. Since it is not worth the shipment to get B12 to my country, I just made my own with locally purchased chemicals. Seeing as this information is published I used the following main ingredient formula: 50% Toluene, 25% Acetone, 20% Methanol and 5% Isopropanol. (It dissolves carbon like butter so I know it works). Changed my oil and filter as well as adding Liqui Moly fuel injector cleaner to my gas tank and have only put 200 miles on the odometer thus far, but can already see a drastic improvement in MPG (according to the computer which I know is not scientific). I shall report back after 5000K in terms of oil consumption and MPG, but I am optimistic thus far! Thank you for what have been extremely helpful and motivational videos...
Awesome!! A few folks have tried different chemical combinations - looking forward to the results
Just adding my experience to the majority of positive comments.
2012 Audi Q5 2.0T Premium Plus with 98,000 miles (~157,000 km)
Before the piston soak, I got about 600 miles (~1000 km) per liter of oil consumed. It's not as bad as other people's engines. I completed the piston soak in 24 hours, as recommended. I then got the engine started after turning the crank by hand. Initially, I had multiple misfires and couldn’t keep the engine above 2,000 rpm before it died. After about 3 minutes of starting and trying to keep it alive, it eventually began to idle without misfiring as often. At this point, there was no more white smoke coming from the exhaust.
I let it idle for about 10 more minutes with minimal misfires before taking it out for a drive. After driving for about 3 minutes, the check engine light turned on and misfired multiple times. The engine did not die, but it was running rough. I let it idle for a minute on the side of the road then the check engine light turned off by itself. (I didn’t have my scan tool with me, so I couldn’t see what the light was for, but I assumed it was for the misfiring.) I continued driving for about 20 more minutes with no issues.
A few notes about the misfires. I put the old spark plugs in after the piston soak because I didn’t want to ruin the new ones. The old spark plugs were in terrible condition and could have been part of the reason for the misfires.
Went home, changed the oil, changed the spark plugs, and it fired right up and ran great.
After about 50 miles (~80km), I checked the oil level according to the Audi sensor, which said it had burned half a liter of oil. Then it jumped up to full again. So, I was very skeptical of the accuracy of the oil level sensor readings.
I bought a dipstick, and I’m about 800 miles in. The dipstick and sensor level haven’t changed from full since the initial 50 miles.
Overall, I’m calling this a great success! The project was pretty straightforward for me (I rarely work on cars. I rotate tires and replace filters, that’s about it).
I’ll try to update my comment with any other issues I run into, as well as mileage per liter of oil!
Thanks, @ETMotorsports, for putting these videos together.
awesome! really glad it worked for you as well...yeah good point about re-using the old plugs until you swap the oil...I did the same but another viewer installed new plugs right after the soak...it's not a good idea because you're running all of the burned up soot and B12 right through your new plugs...so yes - soak, run for 30 min with the old plugs so you can go through all the garbage and then get the new oil and new plugs in...
So, whats your oil consumption after all?
My A3 2.0t consumes 1l of oil per 1200km more or less. I’m definitely trying this method
@@prppatrik I made it about 2500 miles (~4000 km) and had to add one more liter! Still going strong!
Thanks for the feedback!
I just come here to say that it works! I have a 2016 2.0T Q5. It used to burn 1 quart every 300 miles, and I was preparing myself for a full engine overhaul, but I decided to give this a shot. I did the full process, plus a Liqui Moly engine flush at the end. It was really surprising the amount of carbon that it came out! Sprayed some carburetor cleaner in the pistons and ran the starter 2 times also after finishing the soak, the rags were covered in carbon too.
So far I did 300 miles and the oil level is at max still!
Huge thank you!
Great results!!
I NEED to do this!!! i Need to know couple things first. can Berryman be in oil when ur done w procedure? & should i try to Vacuum out whatever is left in there? plselmk🙏 @ETMotorsports
@@timpresutto184I changed the oil after doing the process, since it was full of carbon chunks. I used a Liqui Moly engine flush to try to remove as much crap as possible. It worked awesome. So far I hit around 2000 miles and 0 signs of oil consumption.
@maurifico1 do the motor flush before the soak?
Thank you I was adding 1 qt of oil every 200 miles now after this I’m at 1000 miles with no loss….INCREDIBLE
2013 Q5 2.0T w/ 75k miles
Awesome results!
I just want to thank you and add myself to the list of grateful people that your videos helped. I have a 2014 Q5 2.0t that started burning 1 qt of oil every 400-500 miles. Love the car and it ran great but I was going to get rid of it. After doing the piston soak following your technique with B12, I’ve already put 1600miles on it and it has barely burned any oil so far. I absolutely can’t believe it! Thank you!!!
Love it! Thanks for the feedback!
same problam i have a same car please tell me how to fix it?
I did a b12 treatment about 800 miles back. Still at 50% oil and it started at about 80% when I refilled oil so this definitely helped.
Few things; liquid was gone from the cylinders in a few hours. Even after multiple fills. Turning the crank after the liquids drained through the rings is an easy way to move the pistons between adding some liquid. Put a long sheet of shop towels over the engine when you crank and you can see the color of what's blown out. Obviously do this only after liquid drains through the rings.
My back cylinder seemed to drain fastest so I hooked up a pump to a thin hose to blow air in to agitate the liquid as well as suck it all out and did this a few times to wash the cylinder. Each time it was less and less thick black carbon.
If I do this again I'm going to make a long thread attachment so I can pump some pressure in to try to force it to flush through the rings.
Lastly, B12 ingredients are online for anyone needing to compare other products in case B12 is not available to them.
thanks for the feedback!
I own a 2013 Beetle Turbo with the 2.0t engine, and the oil burning was alarming. No shit, I topped up a quart as regularly as I filled up the tank. I was on the verge of forking out money I didn't have to replace the pistons and rings, when I researched for alternative fixes and came across this vehicle.
Frankly, I was skeptical, but after watching this and a few others, I decided to perform a piston soak also.
I'm in Ghana, Africa, and there's no way to get B12 here. But I managed to get 3 cans of seafoam, which I mixed up with STP super concentrated injector cleaner.
After soaking for 24 hours according to your instructions and changing the oil afterwards, I've gone on a 600 mile road trip and back, and I'm frankly astounded. Dipstick is still reading full and I really can't believe it. Prior to the soak Cylinder 4 was the most affected, with new plugs always getting wet with oil even after a few minutes of idling.
I pulled it out after the trip, and it's bone dry.
Thank you so much Sir. Really. You have no idea what you have done for me and I'm eternally grateful.
@@samuelafreh-debrah8971 great results!! I'll have to check the STP injector cleaner
2017 A4 2.0t
My car was going through a quart of oil per 300 miles
Took it to a local shop which is well reviewed and a mechanic who I still trust but his recommendation was a new engine, which is standard for the industry
I followed this procedure with B12 and adding diesel engine oil
I’m currently 3000 miles past the procedure with zero oil consumption
I would call this a great success compared to where it was
Awesome results...jeez 2017 shouldn't have these problems 🤯
Thanks so much for posting!! I’ve been using b12 in the gas only and I went from 832 miles to 1241 miles. I will try the soak next. I’ve owned Audis for decades and always had to add a quart of oil between oil changes. You’re within Audi specs now and this is great!!
So u put the b12 in the tank with the gas? How do u do it? Wait until the gas is low then pour the whole thing?
Yep, I put a bottle in a 1/4 tank of gas and then fill up. This is my 3rd tank of gas and it slowed down the oil consumption.
@@smyley6049 niceee thats dope well good thing i bought 3 bottles of b12..i plan to use 2 for the piston soak then i guess ill use the last one on the gas...thanks for the advice
@@smyley6049better gas mileage?
@@proefficientsvision6325It does actually guide you on the can. Add before fuel, to ensure proper mixture. I’m just about to add some once the last 24 hrs is up.
Before your video, I used liquid moly engine flush for 15 min before doing my oil change.It improved little bit from 300 to 900 miles. I did that couple times and never could go pass 900 miles before I had oil light. Once I would get to 4k miles it would just slowly drop back to 300 miles. I got aggravated and used liquid moly engine flush and soaked the pistons over night without cranking pistons but that also did not help me go pass 900 miles before I had to add oil. At this point I was willing to try anything. So I actually started using shell T6 5w40. It was recommended by a friend. He said the diesel oil has extra chemicals to clean your engine. Did some research and been using it now for six months. When using the t6, I noticed that my pistons wouldn't get dirty as quickly as before. What I mean by that is if my car burn oil every 900miles after the engine flush. It would still burn 1qt oil every 900 miles and it wouldn't decrease like it did before with Castrol oil. I just tried your method but I only did for 7 hours since I didn't have time. I can confirm that I see a big improvement. I did so far 1500 miles and I still did not have to add oil. I actually have a dip stick in my car that I bought and the oil level shows still at max. I also still use shell T6. Thanks to your video I'm actually happy with the my car now. BTW I drive 2012 Audi Q5 2.0t.
Great! yeah pretty much the same car...I used the Rotella T6 in my A4 after the piston soak for about 1000km...I don't think the T6 is within spec for the Audi so perhaps consider switching back when you're happy with the numbers...but yes I've heard the same thing - more detergents to help keep the engine clean...
Did you use liquimoly engine flush for piston soak??
@@vader_117I used the same product as in the video. I am thinking of using liquid moly engine flush every oil change to keep the pistons cleaner hopefully. So running it for 15 min and draining the oil.
I also did a shortened soak with B12 on my 2011 A4. I had planned on doing a 24 hour soak but got called into work so my soak only lasted 3 hours! Prior to the soak I was burning 1 quart every 200 miles. So far I’ve driven the car 900 miles and no drop in oil!
Probably the viewer that had an issue with oil pressure had large amounts of sludge accumulated in the engine already. When adding the B12, it probably broke up all of that carbon buildup and sludge and plugged up the oil pick up screen or oil filter. My assumption is the gritty type of material you were feeling in the first oil change is just chunks of carbon that was broken free from to B12. I plan on trying to use this method on my 2011 Chevrolet equinox with a 2.4 L engine that has oil consumption. Thanks for the informational videos!
Good luck! Keep us posted with your results... sadly he mentioned he paid 3k for a new oil pump which is insane so hopefully he wasn't taken advantage of by a crappy mechanic
The amount of smoke that came out of my 2011 328i filled the street with thick white smoke for about the length of a football field. It cleaned my oil sensor so now it's working properly again. Also not burning a drop of oil and no oil burning smell. I couldn't be more happy. I used my berrymans b12 and flushed out with seafoam, tools and a bore scope. I just did a 8 hour soak. Topped off Then rinse flushed out the spark plug holes. The amount of carbon was enormous. Although the crankcase is in pristine condition meaning this car had normal oil changes before I bought it in March. Next is ultrasonic cleaning the fuel injectors.
yeah when the stuff burns it SMOKES! :)
2011 Audi A4 Quattro at 105,000 miles - I followed your piston soak with B-12 only. I was burning 1 quart per 150 miles, and am now at 500 miles with zero oil loss. Unbelievable. THANK YOU. You saved me thousands; it feels like a new car (better idle, start, throttle response, power), and like you said it’s not “cured” but $50 every year or two for an hour worth of time is way worth it. Great job; I can’t thank you enough.
Tip- I “slipped” cranking the engine by hand once and did a fast quarter turn and squirted some B-12 out which happened to get in my eye (ouch)… crank strong, but slow. Now that I know the process, I think I can do this for a total investment of about 20 minutes up front, 4 60-second cranks, and then 20 minutes to put everything back together and do an oil change.
Awesome results! Glad it worked
Thank you for this series of videos! I really appreciate your approach - careful and thoughtful, but yet not treating the car like it’s a spacecraft either. I saw DIY Dave’s posts, but I didn’t have the confidence to try it on my Audi (2012 Q5, 103k miles) until I saw your posts and all the comments. Wanted to share the amazing results!! My Q5 was burning a quart every 230 miles like clockwork. I did a chickens*** version - used about 1 1/4 cans of Berrymans. I started with 75 ml in each cylinder, hand cranked just a few rotations (I know I’m lazy), waited 6 hours and added more, repeating the light hand cranking. After 24 hrs, we added a 1/2 quart of oil to the crankcase to make it full (started 1 qt. low) and cranked it up. Rough start, took a few tries, but no CEL or misfiring. I drove it gently 10 minutes to the oil change shop. I’m at 1100 miles now and the oil indicator is barely below full. No other products were used. I can’t believe it! Thanks again!
Awesome results! Glad it worked
did this on a BMW e90 N52 engine that was burnign 1 qt per 300-500 mi. after a couple 6 hour soaks now im at about 1000 miles per 1 qt. bout to do a oil change again soon and monitor and see how the soak really did. ty for the info bro keep up the great work.
Nice work!
After your two videos about piston soak, I were pretty confident about doing the piston soak for my 2.0t audi. Sadly in Europe I couldnt buy barrymann product, but I found pretty good alternative for that. Also used 10w40 motorex, added the additive to the crank. And now i’m on nearly 1k km. first 200kms i drove the car like crazy to see if its the same thing as before. Because before if i’d push above 3.5-4k rpms, there would immediately appear the smell of burning oil. And I needed to add 1l of oil after every week or approximately about 500-600km. But now honestly, no oil smell in cabin and the oil level is i would say between max and the middle of the dip stick. I’am really happy with the results. If anyone is wondering what’s the name of the product for piston soak is, it’s verylube anticarbon. Thank you for the videos, keep it up!!
Hello. Which product did you use instead of Berryman?
That’s also what I would like to know
@kkisielius4670 Did you have the oil smell on deceleration as well?
verylube anticarbon
Also subscribing for what you used. I figured B-12 is mostly toluene, acetone and methanol. I find many paint thinners have both toluene and acetone but methanol in them is not easy to find mixed or separate. I guess you could substitute for some other alcohol or just gasoline...
Hi, my sons and I are big VW/Audi fans and this is a very interesting video presentation. I didn't realize that I've been doing a "piston soak" (or some crude version of it) way back in the 80s on my Jetta Trek. The reason I did that was to avoid carbon build -up in the cylinders, keep injectors clean, reduce fuel consumption and emissions, and ensure the car would pass the emission test. My method was very crude: I disconnect a vacuum hose and dip it in the bottle of the fuel treatment. I would then just turn the ignition ever so slightly and watch half of the bottle be sucked into the engine. I'd reconnect the vacuum hose and leave the car as is overnight. In the morning i start the car and the thick black smoke turns to white and eventually to invisible as i rev the engine and leave it idling for a while. My car would pass the emission test and the test would be amazed how a high- mileage old car would register emissions that's next to nothing. Where in Canada are you located? I'd like to learn more about this b12 product. Thank you.
Hey yeah lots of folks are doing this for various reasons :) I'm in Ottawa
Great follow up and appreciate you giving credit to DIY Dave. A couple of suggestions:
1. During one of the refill/soaks, I added the B12 and then reinstalled the spark plugs lightly and very slowly turned the crank to slowly force the B12 through the system carefully so I didn’t blow it up.
2. When the soak is done, I put a little oil in each cylinder and rotated the crank manually 8-10 revolutions to help the start up (but made sure the cylinder was empty before starting) - still a little roughy to start, but no misfires and only cranked for a little longer than usual.
I only had a few hours to do the soak, but car is running well after (too early to tell if it helped with the oil burning).
2011 Toyota Camry 2.5L.
Thanks!
interesting - I tried to reinstall the spark plugs and turn the motor and it wouldn't move...I thought of the same thing - use compression to push the liquid through but that didn't seem to work on my motor...
What's the update on this? I'm currently doing a 72 hour soak and am planning on keeping the spark plugs lightly on like you did. Did it help oil consumption?
I had piston slap but it went away. Changed oil, drove 500 changed oil again. Now I'm at 300 miles, so far so good. I'm now running valvoline restore 5w 30.
Great results! However in order to maintain this low oil consumption you need to use higher quality oil (dont saying that Penzoil is trash) with PAO and Esters in order to maintain cleanliness of piston rings. I am not familiar with US oils but I know Redline is using PAO. Here in Europe Ravenol & Liqui Moly is high end. Higher end oil leave no residue when burned of at 300-400c which is temperature near piston rings
That's not a bad point - honestly I haven't researched each oil in particular...Penzoil is readily available and within spec for that motor so that's what I use in all of my cars... all the rest of the stuff is special order usually and quite a bit more expensive
Liqui Moly do not make their own oil base, they just mix additives and AFAIK only one or very few of their oils have sufficient enough level of PAO to be really considered and based on some tests even the ones that have enough PAO lack on Esters. As I know pure PAO without Esters is bad for seals. BTW I am going with LM Molygen NG for my next oil change. Also some oils that are very good for more modern turbo engines may not be that great for engines that from 6-8 years ago, in some engines you might prefer lower viscosity in others - higher viscosity. You also need to consider amount of detergent components in oil, oil change intervals and driving style (idling, traffic jams and overheating are way more taxing than say highway driving). Realistically you should go by motor/hours for oil change and not pure mileage. Then you add fuel quality into the mix...
@@ETMotorsports the Motor Oil Geek here on YT has unquestioned information on oil quality. I think your Penzoil is fine. He demonstrates the differences between their various formulas, which you may find useful. There is another video where the demonstrate Valvoline that can clean .
In the early 2000s he had to start making oil for his dad's NASCAR race team.
How about AMSOIL?
Thank you for the very informative and detailed 3 part saga. I’m sure it helped a lot of people, as it did for me.
I tried this on a family members Accord. I discover that cyl 4 had 0psi of compression, I figured the rings might be stuck because the EGR valve was stuck open so Carbon and emissions gasses were flooding into the engine.
Followed your process to a tee. But I added a step, I added a tiny dash of atf the the effected cylinder. My thought on doing that was that now that the b12 had broken down some of the carbon around the rings, the ATF (being a good sort of penetrating lubricant with detergent properties) would then do an additional soak and work around the rings and lubricate at the same time. Went from 0 psi to 150 psi 😆 brought it back to life! Comp tested it 100 miles later and same reading of 150psi. I not sure if doing the ATF soak after b12 provided any benefit but I just wanted to share my story.
Thanks for the great vids, keep in makin em
that's awesome! that's quite a significant improvement in that one cylinder!
It definitely was not expected. I was hopeful for some increase in psi after scoping the cylinder and not seeing any visible damage, didn’t expect this outcome. But it just goes to show the impact that stuck rings can make. I almost pulled the motor and donated it for charity lol
Again, love the videos, love how thorough you are with them and looking foreword for more.
My 2015 A5 has 172750 miles and has started drinking oil to a tune of 1quart every 200 miles/ 300km... Soooo I did the piston soak this weekend and have driven 200 miles and my oil gauge has not moved. By now my system would have alerted me to add a quart. I drive 100 miles a day round trip to work and the most I can get between top offs is 250miles.
fingers crossed!
Tried this on my oil guzzling 2014 A4 and has worked great for 300 miles so far! No more dirty smoke out of the exhaust.
I found the #3 piston soaked with oil.
Let add this safety tip... let the engine cool down before pouring in the Berrymans! My first attempt was a near disaster from a geyser of toxic steam shooting out of the spark plug hole 😊
Interesting - the #3 on my A4 was also soaked in oil...I wonder if it's something to do with how the PCV air gets into the manifold...
And YES! Don't pour on a hot engine - I did the same mistake thinking it'll be more effective... it just evaporated... good point!
I replaced the pcv over a year ago with no improvement.
Sometime this month I'm going to do another full piston soak.
In the meantime I'm real happy with the new found power, less hesitation and no more watching the oil level drop.
Thank you and go Senators!
As an alternative to b12 for europeans: Mannol 9970 has very similar ingridients. Performed a piston soak with it last weekend on a older mazda mx5. it didnt burn horrendous amounts of oil but still wanted to see if it worked. the piston and valves are free from any carbon build up an the engine runs extremely smooth and does not smoke anymore now. The car has to be driven more to determine if oil consumption changed tho! Will report back.
Please keep us posted with your results
Unfortunately Mannol 9970 is carb cleaner in spray form and our Hero is using B12 in liquid form which differs in chemical compunds. I am not saying it is not working but us(Europeans) should use Wynns Injection System Purge - w76695 which has simmilar compounds to b12
any updates
@@6lackRainthe car still didnt burn a drop of oil. engine runs smooth as. Occasionally smokes on cold start due to worn valve seals but thats fine with me.
2009 Audi A4 2.0T here. Just did this and will report back on oil consumption. I had a hard time starting and eventually started with misfires. So I turned off the car after about 8 mins. I tried to crank again but it wouldn't really start. (It would start for a little than the engine would stop). I waited for the engine to cool a bit so I can take out the plugs and the spark plugs were all black from the carbon and soot. I put in new spark plugs but it would not want to start while cranking. So I decided to just change the oil knowing that the spark plugs aren't the issue since they are brand new. And what do you know after the oil change + new filter the car fired right up.
So for those of you having trouble starting the car after the B12 treatment I would definitely put in new plugs and new oil + filter after the initial firing of the engine. I can already tell the treatment is working. The car has more oomph to it and I fell like I increased/restored some compression in the cylinders. Will report back on how long I last until the low oil light comes on again.
Looking forward to the final results... the car runs rough after the first start for sure - I usually do about 30 min of driving before changing the plugs and the oil
I did this soak process 4 yrs ago on a 2010 A4 using Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner at 80k kms. I never had a check engine light or misfire after. Oil consumption improved for a while and then gradually got worse again. I sold the car to a family member (cheap) and they sold it a year later.
Sounds like something you would do yearly.
I have done the treatment on my 2009 A4 and so far, it looks promising. I hope I get as good of results as you! I will post my own results video once I have used the quart of oil. I did have some issues right after doing it that I will try to explain in my results video, but once i figured out the issue, it has been running just fine since.
Thanks for the great videos. I have a 2013 Passat CC 2.0 TSI with 260k Kms. Oil consumption jumped up months ago and then misfires, then pcv spewing oil. I’ve done a ton of repairs, new turbo, new pcv and now fuel mileage gauge is jumpy indicating modifiers will start again soon. I found high mileage seafoam in Dubai and will try the soak next weekend. Wish me luck! And keep up the great videos.
Fingers crossed - keep us posted!
did it work?
The spark plug thing. For us crazies.
Sometimes the gap gets bumped cloased.
BUT, on rare occasions the centre electrode ceramic brakes!
Ive heard it can cost a penny!
Safe bet 🤔 i use a rubber tube to insert the plugs. Just push the ceramic into a suitably sized hose, 🦾, gently lower it and use the hose to screw the plug in. ⚡ Pull off the hose, and tighten! 🌋
Great video.
Engine flush works too!
Thank you.
Great video. I'm an independent mechanic for 7 years and B12 is always in my staple. Another good chemical to have is Marvel Mystery Oil. I would recommend do a second soak, and use MMO in the oil. I have used this trick for a lot of small engines and it has always worked amazingly with regards to oil consumption.
Great info
so you're saying do the second soak with MMO instead of B12? Same procedure but mmo. I had a successful first soak with B12 so far but planning on doing a second soak when the time comes for oil change, however B12 is hard to get in Canada, and expensive if available.
How were the results after the first soak? What's your consumption now and why do you want to do the second soak? If you're already pretty good after the first soak you can try to do a second run with Seafoam high mileage or equivalent from Canadian Tire...I just ran a soak in my Touareg VR6 with Seafoam and so far it looks to have worked well
Soak done Oct 20th or so. Added 4.5ish L of Quakerstate 5w40 Euro, the digital indicator didn't quite show full at the time. Then about 100km later I added a bottle of Rislone engine treatment which probably put the oil over max capacity. I'm now at 1000km and the indicator hasn't moved. I have a dipstick but it's maybe moved 2-3mm. Prior to this the car was burning a full digital meter scale every 550 or so, I only had the car for that long before a friend sent me your videos and I went to town on the soak. I had misfires in cyl 2-3 and so i got someone to do a carbon cleaning and was it ever caked! Runs much better now but i feel the vibrations in idle they're just very very subtle. Other work done diy was MAF clean, throttle body clean, changed the PCV, new coils(NGK R8), new plugs twice. I'm back to the ones that came with the car which I cleaned with throttle body cleaner and wire brush. I'll try the soak with seafoam next and have a jug of Pennzoil Platinum euro and liquimoly oil saver ready for next change. Here are some pics of before the soak and then recently when I put the old plugs back in imgur.com/a/4QHWIqK@@ETMotorsports
I can't recall the order of photos before the soak but the ones after are Cyl 1,2,3,4. I've ran two seafoams and an STP through the fuel system since getting the car in Sept. And also changed the injectors during the carbon cleaning.
lol awesome dude! I have a bunch of 2.0t cars and assumed the facelift motors didn’t have the issues the b8 did but my wife’s is consuming bad - will have to do this!
yeah unfortunately they were supposed to have been fixed in 2014 but I've seen plenty of cars well beyond that still having oil pressure issues :(
I've performed this procedure on my MK6 Golf GTI 2.0 TSI today.
So far one noticable change is that the exhaust stopped smoking. It was white smoke/condensation which didn't bothered me because of the cold weather now.
After the soak and a 30 minute drive there's no smoke/condensation anymore.
Before this pistonsoak i've tried a few other products but they didn't work. (Eurol, Liquimoly)
The engine still burned a quart of oil every 450 miles.
I live in Germany and we can't get Berryman overhere.
I've got a buddy in Florida that shipped me 2 cans of B12. For about €60,- to Germany.
Thanks for the video and i will update the results.
Hopefully it worked well...eek 60EUR for 2 cans is crazy lol
Hey fellow European, use Wynns Injection system purge - its simmilar to b12 and 1L costs ~20€
@@fine9186 uk based company? Thanks for the recommendation... I'll check the ingredients
I think its Belgium, but main thing is available everywhere in Europe
Also there are videos (in russian) about using Wynns as piston soak: 'раскаксовка Wynns'
@@ETMotorsports So far it works. 2200Km's in and the dipstick says full.
I used paint thinner. Almost same ingredients as b12. I used acetone as well. Also I did not run the with painthinner in the oil. Used 2 stroke and gasoline mix in last soak to get some lubrication for the cylinder walls
did it work? Yeah another viewer mentioned using acetone directly as well...I guess most solvents would work as long as you're careful about running them in the motor after
@@ETMotorsports It seems to have worked beautifully. I have only driven it 250 km yet, but no noticed oil consumption so far. The engine consumed 1 liter of oil in 500 km before. The engine is a PSA 1.2 puretech engine which is famous for burning a lot of oil. What an easy way to fix an expensive problem :)
Please post a update after few thousand kms, I'm seeking options to try with my PSA 1.2. Probably going to do it just before wet cam belt change
@@ETMotorsportsthat was me. Berry B12 is 90% acetone
@@villearponen7521I did it on a puretech 1.2. So far so good. But no data yet.
Thank you so much for posting the follow-up (part 3). I have a 2015 Audi Q5 with the 2.0t engine and plan to perform this service at my next oil change.
Good luck! Keep us posted with your results
How'd it go? I'm looking at a 2016 Q5 and have concerns about this issue...
Bro well done I to saw barry video with Corolla now after watching ur 3 videos I am going to give to a try. I have a 2008 Prado 235km. It does about a liter every 1000km. So hoping for the best thank again 🙏🏻🙏🏻
Just found this. Tnis issue applies to all makes and models. Trying to fix my 2002 Honda accord se with high oil consumption. 1 quart or more a week. Been using b12 with a heavier weight oil . Manufacturer recommends 5w-20 . Going with 15w-40 , then my pour 1 ounce of b12 in each cylinder let soak down and start after verifying with borisscope
Reviewing Diy daves videos along with yours, origin of his b12 experiment was a commentor called blackysan. Thanks all 3 for this experiment. I believe no spark plugs were harmed in the making of these videos.
Thanks for the update! Im actually quite surprised how well the treatment worked for you. I wish my results were as good. You may remember i commented on your last video with my ongoing saga with my A4. I left saying i was going to try it one more time and post my results. Never did on the last video, so here they are now.
This would be the 3rd round of piston soaking. I basically followed the same procedure as before. One difference is that the car was warmed up before i started. Not sure this was the brightest idea since the first pour of B12 into the first cylinder instantly started boiling and almost got me in the face. Needless to say i waited a bit for safety reasons lol. I first added about 25ml to each cylinder and then rotated the crank several times. Then i spread the remainder of the bottle to the cylinders. I let soak overnight. First thing the next morning i rotated the crank several times again. Added about half the second bottle to the cylinders and let soak for about 4 hours or so. Rotated the crank again and added the rest of the bottle and let soak another 4 hours or so. I rotated the crank a bunch more then put everything back together and started it. I let it idle for awhile to clean itself out. The usual misfires and light smoking for the first 5 minutes or so then everything cleaned up. I drove the car home and then back to work the next day with the oil/B12 mixture. Just shy of 100 miles round trip. I changed the oil and filter and filled it back up with Rotella T6. I remember you tried something similar by using an oil that had more additives and detergents. Maybe i was wrong, but either way the my car seemed to eat the Rotella fairly quickly and wasnt too long before i was down a liter. Then i changed the oil and filter again and put in Mobil 1 which what i normally run.
All in all i definitely saw improvement. Though not as successful as you, i would recommend trying this treatment for anyone dealing with similar issues. I started burning a liter about every 260 miles and now i usually have to add a liter about every 400. No not huge improvement, but improvement nonetheless which i will take as a win. I know theres a few other things going on with the car so there might be other contributing factors to the oil consumption rather than just the rings/pistons. Either way I got a deal on a used engine so i plan to run my car as is until i decide to make the engine swap a nice winter project
Shoot... yeah I remember your issues... sorry to hear this wasn't as effective... yeah there's no guarantee with this - your kind of praying that this softens things just enough to get you on the other side of the Audi spec...
Yeah I went into it with low expectations so I'm happy with even just the slightest improvement.
One thing I wish I did differently was the regimented crank turning that you did with turning the crank and adding more B12 every 6 hours. I feel that's one of the biggest factors. I could be wrong, but I would think allowing the carbon to soften and then rotating the crank to break things loose is one of the most important contributing factors to the success you had. Unfortunately I did the treatment at my work so I was limited to how often I could access my car
@@thehen42try an additives that could soften or swell the gaskets and valve stem seals. I'm currently on a second can of Liqui moly Oil Saver and it might work, only 1000km so far. But at this time, I would have to add a litre of oil, but the oil level sensor still shows max. Alao check the PCV system. All of these things can contribute to excessive oil consumption.
@@thehen42 Also check your pcv hose and make sure it is not crimped, and if so, change it out. I have seen this fix the problem as well.
If you check the SDS of the B-12 you can see it is basically a nitro thinner. Toulene, Acetone, Methanol are the main ingredients.
I did it about 500 miles ago, but I drive a lot. So far, oil consumption is reduced but not gone. Maybe I have an issue elsewhere too, who knows. A very weird thing happened after I did my soak and put everything back together. There was a heavy tapping noise which I am assuming was a hydraulic lifter not working properly. I ran the residual B12 that leaked by the rings through the entire engine to try and help break up some crap. The noise disappeared after an oil change shortly after. I dumped in a quart after the sump was drained, leaving the plug out to try and drain a little more old crap. The key here is the compression check, because you will burn oil with a very worn turbo or a bad PCV valve, both of which are somewhat common on these engines from what I have been seeing. It's important to do the compression test first.
hmmm - keep an eye on the consumption and let us know if it improves...the Q5 consumption slowed down during the first 5k and now I`m monitoring to see if it gets even better than the reported values...
So here's the update, the oil burning was measured in days, rather than miles or kilometers, prior to this. So far, after the initial loss of almost a quart, it hasn't moved after adding more. It still puffs out black smoke under hard acceleration, but nothing visual during idle and apparently not measurable in days like before. I put roughly 500 miles on the car since topping off the oil. I would say the problem is solved for now. even if this is something that has to be done every 30-50k miles, that's not the end of the world. I'll update you again in about a month.@@ETMotorsports
Anything update?
@@poopyheads5720 seems okay. I drive and idle a lot and it’s about a quart a month. Selling the vehicle now because I just did the claim but now it needs a turbo
Just a comment to say that Berryman's B12 is actually available online in europe, i live in Ireland and had no trouble getting the same bottle that's used in these videos. I actually posted a comment here last week but it seems to be gone, not sure what happened there. I did the soak on my honda civic and while i can see a reduction in oil consumption it's still burning oil and i'm still seeing excessive smoke from the exhaust so i'm going to do another soak and continue to use the Berryman's in the oil and petrol tank and hopefully i'll see an additional improvement over time. I'm seeing oil on the plugs especially from cylinder 3 but i haven't had any real issues with the running of the car, just the excessive oil consumption and smoky exhaust which unfortunately will fail an emissions test. This problem with the oil consumption started shortly after getting a P0401 code with the CEL on the dash which suggests an egr problem and which i haven't managed to solve, just wondering if anyone had a similar experience. Many thanks
Hey thanks for the info... the rings are just one of a thousand different things that can cause oil burning and smoke... valve seals are another common one, pcv etc... have you done a compression check? I'm curious about your cyl3...
Many thanks for that 👍 . Yes it's very likely that the seals are worn but I've gotten around that problem in the past with other cars by stabilising the oil and using the right grade etc but the problem with this car came on suddenly and the level of smoke and oil consumption is quite dramatic and I think is likely a piston ring issue along with other factors. I do intend to do a compression test and I also want to change the pcv. I am starting to see a noticeable reduction in smoke and oil consumption since I did the soak and added B12 to the oil and tank. If the compression was a lot lower in one cylinder compared to the others what would be the significance in terms of burning oil?
On of the main oil burning issues I have come across was a clogged or bad PCV valve. I would start there and make sure it is functioning. This was good info!
Pcv is common but does not account for the quantities of oil we're talking about here... you're not going through 1L of oil every 4-500km because of the PCV... that's a pretty good indicator actually - if you're losing a bit of oil between changes it might be PCV or a leak... if you're losing significant quantities without a visible sign of a leak - most likely rings
@@ETMotorsports yeah you did mention 1L
I really believe that the long-term answer for stuck piston rings would be an oil additive that can gradually dissolve the gunk under the rings at the same time will not damage the rest of the engine.
I think a lot of folks have tried a lot of additives out there - we're all pretty much desperate to find a cheap solution to this issue but I haven't heard of anything that's permanently fixed it so far...
@ETMotorsports you should pull the pulls and drop some new marvel mystery oil synthetic version. It had really good results in my gas 2.0t ford.
@@ETMotorsports Thank you for your response. Let's hope for the best.
Valvoline has the Restore & Protect oil, but they do not offer it for Audi specs yet. Maybe the 5W30 blend would be okay?
Try Lucas oil stabilizer next. Or RESTORE 4 cylinder formula. U did good, can listen on my iPad and glance when you show me,& you thought me and I felt I was there with u brother, ur a boss
Very objective and comprehensive follow up, nice!
Much appreciated!
I did it as well a few weeks ago. Seems to have worked well.
I was also one who was dismayed at the spark-plug drop....haha. Funny intro.
I’d suggest just doing this process a few times throughout the course of a month. To make sure you get it all out, probably what I’m going to do.
I’m thinking of doing this as routine maintenance before every oil change at 5k miles intervals.
@@poopyheads5720 I think that’s a little much. Maybe every other oil change but I wouldn’t do it every oil change engines are designed to have carbon in it just not as much as these build up
Another good vid😊 i did the same proces on my 2.0 tfsi with oven cleaner. Very agresive stuf but works great. I did not run the engine with that in the engine oil after the soaking. I replaced the oil to be safe. Keep up the good work ❤
eek yeah oven cleaner is hefty stuff...did you find it in liquid form or spray it in the cylinders?
@@ETMotorsports hi, normally its a spray but if you cut the can open its just like water,and poor it in. I used a plastic spray bottle. Not a can under pressure! Will give some troubles😬
Great videos. Years ago (I am 54) me and my mates would purchase a cheap bottle of Redex fuel system cleaner. With engine warm we would pull the plugs, pour 50ml down each cylinder, wait 20 mins then with a towel over the plug holes spin the motor. The towel caught all the Redex. Reinstall plugs and start it up. Smoked like hell for a few miles until it all burnt out the back but the engine felt new straight after! Never did an oil change after either! Redex isn't as powerful as B12 I don't think. I wonder if Redline si-1 would work the same as the PEA in it is high and apparently helps dissolve carbon? Apparently that and BG44K are said to be great when added to the fuel system for dissolving carbon out the injectors, valves and combustion chamber.
Thanks for the note - I`m sure there are plenty of products that can do this...all you need is a bunch of broken cars to try everything on :) One thing I`m pretty sure though is nothing you add to the fuel will fix the rings...I know they advertise this but there's just no way anything that gets in through the injector will be effective. At the very best you need an oil additive - at least that will get in the rings and not just the top of the piston...
I did the piston soak in my 2010 Audi A4 and I used seafoam, the oil consumption was 1 liter of oil every 500km or so before the piston soak, after the 1st soak it consumed a litre of oil in 300km which I got scared but like you said I did the piston soak a 2nd time in around 14 hours or so and then I’ve driven 300km already and I’ve driven the car hard and it hasn’t consumed any oil, also just to mention my A4 has a big turbo and it also has a catless downpipe, but even though the oil level hasn’t changed, I know my valve stem seals are bad apparently which are most likely affecting the oil consumption but still I can say this worked and I’ll update once I fix the other stuff in my car
Awesome...glad the second soak is working out better...
How did you figure the seals were leaking? I did them on the A4 before I did the soak thinking that's the cause of all the oil but it did nothing - they were fine after 180k and it's not exactly an easy job - if you're doing it right you'll likely have to go timing too
@@ETMotorsports because whenever I cold start my car, it spits a little bit of oil at the back which someone told me that’s not a piston rings issue it’s most likely the valve seals leaking over night leaving oil in the cylinders and then when I start it in the morning it just dumps it all the way at the back since I’m catless and also my car doesn’t seem to smoke when I’m on the gas pedal which that’s a piston ring sign, mine smokes when I let off the gas and im almost coming to a full stop
Try, BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service Kit
I will definitely try this on my Hyundai accent 2014 i just pray i get this B-12 here in Nigeria
keep us posted on your results!
You could also try some High Performance Lubricants motor oil in there if it is burning some. They are located in mantino Illinois they are an American company and they make some of the finest oils that will clean the rings up really well that's worth a shot too
Hey, first of all thank you for making the piston soak on the Audi Q5 2.0t specifically cuz I have the same one. I tried it myself and it changed my oil consumption from 300 city miles or 500 highway miles of buring 1 quart of oil to 1350 miles of city and highway combined. It was a great learning experience and im new with audi and this is my first audi ever. I had a check engine light on for random missfire for a couple hundred miles but went away and never came back. I didnt replace any parts, except the air filter which was full of oil somehow. I am going to do another piston soak and an oil change at about the 5k mile area and see if that improves it more. One more thing I did was I put 100ml of B-12 chemtool into a little cup and soaked my spark plugs as well for 12 hours, that cleaned off most of the oil from that as well. After the second flush I will try to remember to come back an update you all.
ISSUE: I have came across an issue, it seems that my engine is leaking oil, I dont exactly know where its leaking from but it started after the piston soak. There is a little round part with a sensor connected to it right below the engine oil cap filler (if anyone knows the name of that part please let me know, thanks), it always seems to have oil on it. I have tried to clean it with brake cleaner and it dries off but after a day or two it back to being oily. anyone else have this issue?
What im scared of is the altenator, ive seen vehicles altenator give out because it was soaked in oil leaking from the engine, and I hate it for it to happen, but if it wasn't for the oil leak, I think my car would reach 2-2.5k miles easily without burning a full quart.
Hey - keep us updated on your final results
Did you find out the cause of your leak? And how did the second soak turn out?
Also Diesel or Kerosine works, just more care must be taken as these clean better than B12, but stand higher chance of harming bearings or clogging oil screen in oil pickup tube to oil pump, blocking oil pressure to engine if a lot of sludge is present.
yeah diesel is an easy alternative...it's also a lubricant so not too terrible to run through the motor
B12 contains a lot of toluene. That's what I would use if Berryman's isn't available.
It is entirely possible that the B-12 which has drained into the engine oil is what dissolves the carbon, sludge, etc. on the oil control rings once the car is driven after the soak, not the soak itself. B-12 sitting on top of the piston is going to seek the most direct path down, likely the gaps in the compression rings and whatever side of the cylinder is lowest. It is unlikely that the B-12 will spread evenly around the rings. So, pouring two cans of B-12 directly into the oil filler may be just as effective as the soak.
Worth considering is how the lubrication properties of the engine is compromised by diluting it considerably with this powerful solvent, and how engine longevity may suffer as a result of seeking short-term improvement in oil consumption. Would you pour two quarts of acetone, toluene, etc. into your oil and then drive around? That is what one is doing with this process.
Tried many many many times by many many many people... zero effect unless directly introduced to the rings through the top of the piston...
I don't know exactly what happened to the one failure, but experience says, that engine most likely had caked sludge built up from 100% in town short trips and extended oil changes. Short trips do not burn off moisture that accumulates inside engines. This moisture mixed with oil becomes sludge and solidifies, the B12 breaks down this sludge washes down into oil pan, then gets sucked into pickup tube by oil pump, clogs screen in pickup tube, destroys bearings inside engine. I know this, because I learned this the expensive hard way. Destroyed my cam, cam bearings, rod and main bearings, scored pistons and bores. A used engine was cheaper than rebuilding. Best thing to do before performing, is to check for sludge, if there, do several engine flushes without driving, then drop oil pan to clean all the sand like debris from pan. Or use the BG oil flush kit, either way engine must be clear of all debris before driving.
yeah that's a good point...the reality is there's no way to know what the condition of each motor is so there are 1000 things that can go wrong if the motor is in a rough shape...generally speaking if your pickup gets clogged the engine will through a low pressure warning and you can react in time to save the rest of the motor...a few viewers have noted issues after performing this service but there's little details on what the condition of each motor was prior to the service...
Report: mine was eating 1qt/1000m. Soaked with 2 bottles over a period of 24 hrs. Lost my 24mm so couldn’t rotate the crank. Took a very long to start. Not much white smoke. So far I did 1000 miles and the oil level (according to the screen) hasn’t dropped yet. When I cranked the engine to get b12 out there was some black stuff that flew out. So far so good
So far so good! The black stuff would be all the softened up carbon buildup
I did it to my 2013 Tiguan n got it cleaned perfectly. Waiting to the results of oil consumption
@@vspeederu fingers crossed... any issues with the process?
@@ETMotorsports only the startup after treatment took 7-8 minutes. Had misfires n I cleared it using an OBD scanner. after tht everything was fine. Kept idel for abt 20 min n went for a small ride n got the oil changed. So far all good.
For what it's worth, this issue's root is stemmed in low tension piston rings, the worst PCV system in history and direct injection.
The engine is my favorite other than the VR6 of course. Under boost we reburn so much oil vapor, that it slips past the first ring, gets bound between the first and second which leads to hot gasses that are totally saturated with oil vapor (blow by from PCV) it gets to the oil control rings and gums up almost instantly.
Two quick comments: 1. Even though it should be in tens of thousands (viewer wise) at least you're in the thousands. 2. I was laughing my ass off when I saw you dropping the spark plugs since I saw the comment on Part 1 and I was like "wait a min, WTF is the spark plug gonna hit hard enough that the gap would be affected, specially when the spark plug socket barely fit and he ain't dropping the plugs from Mars".
Haha... appreciate it!
Good stuff man keep up the good work I got my first Audi a4 b8 avant 2.0 and I love it been slowly bring her back to life .I just did the rear main seal because I kept getting misfires and heard that a blown rear main can cause vacuum leaks turned out my rear was still good smh 🤷🏻♂️ I changed it anyways with upgraded billet one from ecs tuning. Turns out my misfires were from clogged injectors which had a lot of carbon on the tips I had just did valve clean and new injectors 2k miles before.so after watching your vids I’m going to try the soak and see if that stops the clogging. Thanks for posting 👍
yeah they're lots of work...keep us posted on your results!
@@ETMotorsports Ok so here’s update after soak. Almost 100 miles and running good with no misfires 🙏🏼 ill keep u posted after i reach 400 💪🏼
@@ETMotorsportsOk just changed oil after driving 480 miles and car is running great🎉🎉🎉 Sounds good and seems like im getting better gas mileage. Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge.Do you think a piston soak would work good on a tdi engine ?
@kspree9649 yeah it should - if the issues are clogged piston rings for sure
If the oil consumption is only minimally resolved with engine flushes and piston soaks, the problem is likely not stuck rings. Stuck rings are a symptom of the actual problem, which is clogged piston oil return holes. During operation, the piston wipes oil on the side of the cylinder walls for lubrication. That oil is supposed to drain back down into the sump through drain holes in the piston. If the holes get clogged, which is not hard to do because of their size and heat, the oil has nowhere to go. It becomes part of combustion. Leaving carbon from oil burning behind. so the clogged oil channels cause carbon buildup on the rings which gets them stuck.
Once clogged, there is no flow into the piston oil return holes, so there is no chemical way to clean them . The real answer to this problem which affects Audi, Chevrolet Toyota is piston modification. The pistons need to be removed, the oil return halls cleaned out and enlarged. And you can add holes. You do that you will never have a problem with oil consumption again.
Google pictures of the Audi pistons for reference. You will see the holes I’m talking about.
Stihl Decarbonizer also will work in a pinch
Just an option to b-12 to some who can’t get it, I believe kerosene may be a decent alternative but I’m not sure.
I have the 2AZFE in my camry, hopefully this will greatly reduce oil consumption. Going to do the piston soak this weekend.
Keep us posted on your results
@@ETMotorsports Will do, I'm not going to drive it around after though. I'm just going to idle it for about 15 minutes. It's definitely burning oil at a good rate. 500 miles/quart roughly. Don't care to fix the issue entirely, but it would be nice to not have to check it weekly.
@@ETMotorsports Before the piston soak I drove 80 miles, the oil level dropped maybe 1/10th of a qt. After the soak it's been 200 miles, and the level hasn't budged. It's not the most concrete evidence but I'll take it as a win.
How’s your engine performing now? I have the same engine
@@joelg6525 Yup. I went from a qt every 400 miles to a qt every 1000 miles. Solid improvement.
Great podcast with good video and great narration. I'll be trying this on my 2016 Volvo oil burner
Hi, did you try the procedure on your Volvo?. I have the same problem in my 2016 Xc90 T6. Thanks in advance for your answer
If you happen to come across another oil burning engine, Valvoline has a new oil line called restore & protect. It claims to remove 100% of contaminated oil deposits. I’d be very interested in a comparison video between that oil and this process to test their claims
How fast does it work though? If it takes 50k km to "restore" the motor it doesn't do is very good... and they won't be running harsh detergents in or they risk long term damage...
ruclips.net/video/kyyZDghgdCI/видео.htmlsi=tyfcj1_FhtldQF4m
Here’s a link to a video where Lake Speed Jr. talks with the developers of the oil, somewhere in the video they mentioned that cleaning occurs in a number of engine hours that is substantially less than a oil change interval. I don’t remember precise numbers. I also don’t know if it’s available in 5w40, if it was only available in 5w30 I probably wouldn’t want to run it for a full oil change interval anyway. But if it cleans as well as they say it can as quickly as they say it can, it could be interesting to see if it could offer comparable results to the b12 process you shared in your videos.
I saw that video. from lake Speed. I have a 2017 KIA Sorento 2.4L that had a dealer piston soak at 65K miles...still used too much oil. Kia wants them to do another piston soak. I am at 69K miles. I just talked to the service manager yesterday and asked if I can put BG EPR 109 in and do a flush right before I drop off the vehicle, let them do their NON B12 piston soak and then fill the oil with Valvoline restore & protect instead of what they usually fill (5W30 DEXOS gen 2) He said OK. I don't expect Valvoline to clean up the carbon fast, I just want it to prevent further sticking. Valvoline is supposed to take 4 oil changes to get back to clean mode..by itself. I wish I knew about this piston soak a long time ago when my son had a VW Passat that used lots of oil.
Hello 👋🏽 great video. I wanted to comment and share my experience with B-12 piston soak. I have a 2001 Honda CRV that was burning oil, unfortunately I can’t remember how much oil it was burning before the B-12 treatment. Before the B-12 treatment my compression was 180, 165, 170, 175. I performed the soak as directed on the B-12 website, I made sure to remove any B-12 liquid from the Cylinders before starting the vehicle to prevent hydrolock however when I went to start the vehicle it wouldn’t turn on, I would hear the engine turning over but with no pressure. I performed another compression test and the numbers were significantly lower. I was very confused. Afterwords I performed a whet compression test and the compression went back up and I noticed that the engine was building pressure so I tried starting the vehicle again while giving it throttle and the CRV turned on with s big puff of white smoke coming out of the muffler. I ran the engine for 15 minutes as directed then I drained the old fluid and refilled with new fluid and new oil filter. I did another compression test and the compression improved. 190, 175, 182, 185. Then engine still burns oil (1qt every 800 miles) After 3,000 miles of driving the oil consumption is still consistent at 1qt for every 800 miles and I did another compression test and my numbers are still pretty identical. So B-12 did improve my piston compression but I’m not to sure if it helped with oil consumption since I didn’t keep record of how much oil it was burning before the B-12 treatment. I’m really curious if anyone has experienced the same thing I did and also if anyone has an idea as to why it happened. I will be doing another piston soak on the next oil change and share results in the future. Thank you ✌🏽
tthanks for the note...this doesn't surprise me...a handful of viewers have noted a decrease in compression and the engine running rougher after the first soak. The unfortunate reality of this method is you can't really control what the B12 is "cleaning" so it could just as well affect your compression rings if there's build up there too. That said - consecutive soaks "should" fix this as you keep cleaning build up around the piston rings. I am curious about your results after the second soak. Having done this a few times now, if I saw a decrease in performance after a soak, I would just keep doing a soak every oil change or as required until it's sorted out...might take a few tries depending on the condition of the motor
You may want to follow up with an ester based additive for further cleaning of the oil control rings. The two main cleaners are Auto-RX Plus (amazon) and High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner (bitog.) You run them for 1500 miles in a GLT/group III+ oil (pennzoil platinum) followed by a rinse in just plain oil for 1500 miles. After two rounds the ring pack cleaning is complete. I'm using Auto-RX on a Hyundai that had stage 1 oil burning (1Qt/5000mi) after a BG EPR engine flush on mild sludge. I did not have the ring cleaning procedure the first time I used Auto-RX so I followed normal cleaning procedure. After 4000 mile the engine only lost 16-20oz of oil on the cleaning cycle. I can't find my notes for the oil consumption on the rinse cycle. I started the cleaning procedure again because I notice smoke from the exhaust when cold, but there are other issues (mild coolant loss, raw fuel smell.) So far, I have no excess oil consumption on the first rinse cycle.
You may want to look into different oils along with analysis until you find what works for your preferred OCI. I'm concerned the oil consumption will return unless the oil selection is specific to this engine, particularly with an oil cooled turbo. I would start with any of the following candidates:
Mobil 1 ESP X3 0w-40
HPL Euro Passenger Car 5w-40 (first choice)
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w-40
Additive: Lubegard Protectant for Turbo (#30015)
Lubegard Flush (95030)
great info - thanks!
Would you mind making a steps instructions, I’m thinking of doing this. Or just correct me if im wrong. Youre saying to buy one of those cleaners and add it to pennzoil platinum euro 5w-40 and run that for 1500miles. Oil change(filter change also?) then run just oil, same kind pp euro? For another 1500miles. And that’s it? Or do this process twice after the soak?…thanks
@@alejandrocabeza1919 I was suggesting performing the ester cleaning after the berryman's soak as shown by ETMotorsports. If your oil consumption is 1Qt/2500miles or better (stage 1 thecarcarenut) you might want skip the soaking. If it is worse (1Qt/400 miles) then flush the engine (lubegard/BG EPR) and/or soak the rings (berrymans/kreen) until 1Qt/2000 miles. The following are the instructions for Auto-RX Plus I got from a Q&A on amazon:
"The old instructions were using 6-9 oz in the oil (can be the existing oil).
Run it 1,500 miles. Change oil & filter. Run clean oil 1,500 miles. For round
2 use the existing oil and add 6-9 oz. and drive 1,500 mi. This is a slow
process but it works. This place has changed owners and instructions. Probably
to boost sales. Adding 2 bottles will dilute your engine oil alot. " - Gas Geek
I'm doing something similar, but I'm changing the oil and filter with each cleaning or rinse cycle. Just add Auto-RX plus (12oz or 1.5-2oz/Qt) to a fresh oil (group III: PP, PUP, or PP Euro) and filter (WIX XP) change and drive for 1500 miles (1st cleaning cycle.) The oil consumption rate should start to change after 400 miles. For the rinse cycle just change the oil and filter and drive another 1500 miles. In order to clean rings, complete the cleaning and rinse cycle twice (6000 miles total.) For preventative maintenance use 3oz of AutoRX plus, lubegard biotech (non-gdi), lubegard for gdi/turbo, or oil with high-end base and additives (esters/AN/PAO aka HPL oil.)
I started the first cleaning but came back to read your comments too late so I added a full bottle of RXplus. This is my second soak with B12. First soak was done in October and drove about 3500KM before the digital oil indicator showed empty. Prior consumption was one quart per 500km so it was bad. I'll see how this second soak reacts and will post back on the progress when the time comes. 6000miles will take me a long time. Cheers@@macready0230
Guys I don't have b12 where I'm from and I used a product uses back in the day to clean carburetors (bars) and another called gumsolve ... Worked perfectly !!! stoped burning litre ever 200-300 km to nothing in 5000k
Awesome - did you follow the game same procedure?
Yes , same as you did in the first video
Im about to try it on my accord coupe 2010 and see the effects. Just placed the order. Burning 1L every 500km ATM
Good luck!!
Mission failed successfully!
So the car is 2013 a5 facelifted 2.0 tfsi (gen3 engine)
I’ve used xylene, acetone, methanol and atf mixed(all 1 part equally)
I kind of did it in an aggressive way i guess? 24h interval for 6 days and 200ml for each cylinder.
I dont have the tools or means to do it your way, so what i did is, i used a pump to suck the “clean oil” then did the soak without hand cranking it. Everyday i used starter to crank after the 24h interval is done.
Removed what was in the bottom of oil pan, then closed the whole thing and put back the “clean oil”
30min of driving, 1 day later got it to the shop i’m working with, changed the oil and DING!
Low effin oil pressure!
We checked the oil filter and it was basically clean as it can be.
Checked the oil pump, it was stuck at low pressure mode!
Oil pan was quite grimy as well, so we cleaned that up, put a new oil pump, put a new filter and fresh oil for engine flush. Then new filter new oil and it was done.
Back then it was consuming 1lt every 500km, currently i’ve used the car for 500km and mmi says there is no noticable oil loss, looks full.
I’ll let you guys know when it gets to “one level below full” and “add 1lt of oil” mark.
Thank you for the videos!
Hmm good news sort of lol... at least you knew what you were doing with the pump and didn't damage the motor... I'm curious about the pump being stuck though - couldn't free it up? Maybe the valve was stuck? The oil pump isn't terrible to do on these and not that expensive but still better not to have to mess with it... keep us posted on the final results
Forgot to mention that it has 185k km on it.
These being said, i had a a thermostat being stuck open for short period, i’ve used the car as is but it wasn’t reaching the optimum operating temps.
Meaning all the km’s i’ve done like that may have caused the carbon buildup at first place.
I do a lot of short trips as well.
So if your engine is not reaching optimum temp. you guys better sort it out as fast as possible lol
190k km update, currently my father has the car.
When i visited them i checked the oil level and it still had 1 bar missing from mmi oil level, which i guess is 100ml missing.
I asked him if he added any oil and he said he didnt.
So 5000km and it burned/leaked 100ml of oil!
Thank you for the videos!
brother I have a big question, I want to use this method with my 2015 2.5 L jetta, it consumes 1 liter of oil every 1000 km like many here, however my car does not emit smoke, if I do this it is likely that my car will start to emit smoke forever?
hey they don't all smoke...my sister's Q5 did, but my A4 didn't for some odd reason...with the amount of oil they go through I'd be expecting a solid trail of smoke at any time...
all to say that just because the car isn't smoking doesn't mean it's not having these issues as well...if you've checked all common sources of loss like PCV, leaking seals etc. and everything checks out, then you should give this a try...I haven't done a 5cyl yet but it's an inline motor so should be pretty much the same process as the 2.0T with a bit more liquid for the 5th cylinder
@@ETMotorsports Thanks brother, in these months I'm going to try it and I'll tell you how it goes.
I would like to thank you first of all for your efforts and your instructed videos. I tried to do a piston soak with b12 on a 2009 audi a4 manual, as expected and as showed on your videos it took a little bit of time to start afterwards, once started I kept it running stationary for a little bit, normal smoke as your videos were showing, then took it for a drive but after like 500 meters, the engine seems to lose power, even hitting gas all the way wasn’t doing anything and also the engine became louder, and kinda rattling sound. Couldn’t move the car and it was shaking too much thought it might be just a misfire, got the sparks plugs out to check them, they were clean enough. Put in new spark plugs and the problem was still there, the car kinda has a hard time turning on and sometimes I’ll have to hit gas a little bit for it to turn on but even when it does start, there’s still that noise kinda coming from the left side of the engine and also kinda hear like an air leak ( air filter, turbo, down pipe…) and the rpm isn’t steady and and if I try to move the car it shuts down. Smoke is still coming out from the exhaust and smells more like a mix of b12 and oil burning. Any idea on how or what happened exactly and how to fix it? Thank you.
hey sorry for the issues you're having...kinda hard to diagnose this - if you have an air leak from somewhere that would explain the rough idle and the hard starts...any codes? this could be a ton of different issues...
@@ETMotorsports also got a P0300 and a P2310
@@mouad3858 2310 is a coil code, 0300 is misfire... check your coils to make sure they're seated correctly
Hey man. You should go on a world tour showing folks this method. Saved me thousands; I’d assume. I did this method. My q5 was consuming 1 quart every 75-125 miles. Compression on cylinders 1-4 was: 120,125,130,135. The top of the pistons were soaked with oil. My tail pipes were chocolate. I bought two cans of b-12 from autozone, I’m in the US. I got the auto lite platinum spark plugs and denso coils also. I soaked the pistons while all 4 were. midstroke. I split the first can evenly and let soak for 6 hours. I rotated the crank but I’d gotten nervous because it became difficult to spin after about 6 turns. I then coated the pistons every 2 hours for 8 hours; again while turning the crank. At the 20 hour mark, I flooded all cylinders with b12 but at about the 22nd hour the fluid stopped going past the cylinder rings and sat on top of the cylinders. I covered the spark plug holes after topping off btw, but at the 24 hour mark I used to starter to spit out the excess fluid in order to prevent hydro locking the engine. The pistons were squeaky clean. I used wd-40 in the cylinders prior to start up. I replaced plugs, coils, and fuel pump fuse. And I let sit for 12 hours as is. I drained the oil and filed with new filter and Rotella t6. I’ve gone 1300 miles so far and the mmi shows halfway. When and if it gets to the fill mark, I’ll change the oil again and go back with the Castrol 5w-40. I am happy and so excited about the results. Thank you so much for taking time to share this with us. I give it a thumbs up. Salute!
Hey I'm really glad this worked for you - thanks for the note! Those compression numbers are looking pretty low - any improvements after the soak?
@@ETMotorsports I forgot to mention. Thanks for the reply! The compression from 1-4 is now 175-170-180-175.
@Idontwantaname313 oh wow - that's a pretty big improvement... that's great - you're the first to report positive compression changes... the car should be running much better now too
@@ETMotorsports it’s running so well. I figured the compression would go up because on the last top off, the fluid pretty much stayed in the chamber. Initially it drained past the rings really fast. I noticed after every rotation that the fluid was taking longer and longer to drain. I owe it to you man. Thanks a million!
@@Idontwantaname313 love it!! Thanks for the feedback
RESULT! Audi 2.0 tfsi 2010. Had the engine rebuilt by Audi at 73k for oil consumption under warrenty. Has been fine for years and began smoking and consuming oil, 138k miles and 1 litre per 650 miles. Change turbo seals as oil consumption seemed intermittent, no change. New PCV as mine was original, no change.
Carried out a £26 piston ring carb clean as above.... no oil loss in 700 miles. I would't run the engine too long with the chem tool in, too risky. For £26 it's worth trying!
Awesome results! Hmm I'm surprised a rebuilt engine caused issues...I had a b8 a4 rebuilt from Audi at 110k - did burn a drop at 190
do you rotate the cylinders after the six hour soak - or do you rotate them when the cylinder is full of b12?
you can do either...or both...there's no hard rule here...I think both would help - if you rotate right after you put the liquid you can help it move around, if you rotate after it's drained, the soot should be soft so the rings can move around a bit...not that I think about it - just do both :)
Immediately before Iound this video I did a piston soak with MMO for about day on a '15 V60 T5 2.0T, it was using around 1 quart every 2500 miles so well see if ir changes anything
9:30 9:40
10:35 so, engine oil flush is a temporary solution but, how is the sludge formed, can we do anything to prevent it?
13:36 👍🏻
15:21 my V60 is diesel so, no spark plugs.
17:07 😂 good man, taking care of the plugs.😊
Thanks for your advice 👍🏻
High quality Synthetic oil and shorter oil changes.
I have that problem, but my car is a Subaru, I can do a pistol soaking in a boxer engine????? I’m glad you fix you Audi 👍👍
Mmm I've got a few ideas about the boxer engine... it'll depend on where the plugs are located...I built an extension that screws into the plug hole and allows you to add the solution... if the piston is at TDC and you add the solution with the extension you should be able to soak the piston
Another success story, at this point we are at 1500 miles and with zero consumption after the cylinder soak. My sons Audi Allroad 2.o was consuming 1 qt/400-500 miles. I will be curious if we see any consumption and if so after how many miles. I am super psyched. Curiosities for discussion- Should we consider doing this proactively the these cars hit around 100K? What are peoples thoughts about cylinders that held fluid vs which had dissipated? Ours seemed random even though I had lightly reinstalled plugs to prevent evaporation as a variable. I will say mine start up much easier and ran better much sooner than in the videos that I have seen(I was happy about that) but wonder what would be the differences. Thanks again for sharing this, saved me a lot of stress. I do have a new PCV which I will change early in the spring, I was going to do it first but did not want to introduce a variable in this controlled process of the soak.
Awesome - glad it worked! All good questions- so far I haven't seen any correlation between which cylinders drain faster... in fact on mine it was different every time I poured liquid...I suppose with enough time and maybe a bad engine that's out of the car we can investigate by taking the pistons out first to check the initial state...
@@ETMotorsports part of me wonders if it is just slight differences in position against the walls or perhaps as material dissolves in one or the other. there did not seem to be any consistency when I added b12 second or 3rd times in the process, they were all over the place.
@@user-nn7jy1kw1z yeah same here... all over the place
Im impressed by the this idea.can this work on a scooter also please let me know.my bike have white smoke.
No reason why it shouldn't work... but white smoke is usually coolant
the solutition to 2.0tfsi is buy a 3.0tdi i had it with 400.00km not a single liter of oil consuption it had over 4 years
Haha yeah the 3.0tdi is hard to come by in North America and while it's not burning oil the amount of headache it comes in from emissions point of view kills any savings in burnt oil... but I do want one so bad... I'm a manual A6 Avant please :)
I've used Liqui Moly engine flush a couple times now and have not seen a difference however, my cars engine has close to 170k miles and will ultimately need rings. Although I've thought about trying the b12 since the process is much more involving then just running for 15 mins
Unfortunately an engine flush isn't enough - you need the soak overnight to solve this
How much are you turning the crank each time? Just a bit, or a full revolution, or...? Thanks! I will try this before my next oil change.
Multiple full revolutions... pretty much turn until you get bored
HELLO!! At the 7 minute mark of your video here, you mentioned a negative comment here about a viewer getting an OIL PRESSURE LIGHT. I think I have the answer here for you. My ASSUMPTION is that the owner of that car has a Toyota.
Here is the reason.....for some unknown reason, Toyota PAINTS....YES PAINTS the INSIDE of their oil pans. So, when you let that Berrymans sit in the pan, it acts as a paint thinner and starts removing the paint. That paint then gets to the oil pump when you start the car, and the bad news then occurs.
So for you average mechanics like myself.....if you are going to do a piston soak.....make sure the inside of your pan is not painted.
So, when I did this on my 2008 Camry, I HAD TO REMOVE THE PAN, get a wire wheel and a drill, and remove all the paint on the inside of the pan. Then, I reinstalled the pan with a bare metal interior oil pan and had no issues.
I hope this helps my fellow Toyota owners.
I DO NOT KNOW if other car manufacturers do this also. I have a 2005 Honda Accord that I am going to soak next week. I need to find out if Honda paints the inside of their pans.
hey great point...actually if the car is using a stamped steel pan it's almost 100% guaranteed that it's painted...that said the B12 should be pretty diluted in the oil pan - the ratio is like 8:1 with oil but that's not to say it won't screw the paint up...
I know most of this is for 4 cylinder engines but hoping I can do the same for my 3.0 V6. 2017 Q7 with heavy oil consumption. PCV, plugs and coils replaced. No leaks!
Hey, I know of a few 3.0Ts that have been successfully fixed with this... good luck!
@@ETMotorsports I just came back to say that after doing this I'm at no oil loss after 1,000KM. Still early but I'm coming from adding a quart every 500KM. I used 2 bottles of B-12 and let the pistons soak for 24 hours turning the crank by hand initially to move around the chemical. Anyways, thank you for the in-depth review as I was skeptical at first but somehow this reduced a lot of headache and stress.
why no video shows the part where the crankshaft spins 5 times every 6 hours? this is important for us who are not mechanics!
What year Audi's have this issue? Did this service on a 90,000 mile '17 Q3 burning a qt every 200 miles, but it didn't smoke at all! '17 seems pretty late to have this issue, but the oil separator was shot on this car, and there was a lot of vacuum on the crankcase. Changing the separator didn't help oil usage, but crankcase vacuum is now normal. So far, seems to be a huge improvement after the flush. Spent some time on Bobistheoilguy and many seem to feel Rislone or HPI 30w cleaning oil will gently continue cleaning the rings along with everything else after the flush. Have some Rislone ordered. The also say Mobil 1 0W-40 has good cleaning abilities. Planning on 3000-5000 mile oil change intervals.
Ugh...you shouldn't be seeing this on the later models since as far as I understand the pistons and rings were updated but you're not the only one reporting this problem so I guess they're still prone to it...I've heard of Rislone as well - might be worth a try for the next video :)
I’ve read ‘15 down was the accepted year range for these issues. This US spec Q3 was purchased as a used car with 30,000 miles and has been maintained by oil change shops to Audi’s specifications. 10,000 miles is too long for all but the highest quality Euro spec oils IMO. I’m going to try to keep oil changed every 5000miles with M1 0w-40 and top off with Rislone after it uses the 1st qt.
can the Rislone(I assume the engine treatment bottle) be left in the system for the entire cycle? I might try this soon@@GusMahn
@@alejandrocabeza1919 Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment is the one I'll be using at 1bottle in 4-5 qts of oil for 3000-5000 miles, but the tech sheet says you can use two bottles for 100 miles for maximum cleaning.
I think your 2017 Q3 has the Gen 3 of the 2.0t engine (EA888). The engine in this video is an EA888 Gen 2. I know Audi / VW updated the PCV design with Gen 3 - I suspect the piston rings were updated as well.
Great video. I have the same oil consumption issue and I’m looking to do a piston soak. Quick question, when using the starter without the spark plugs, do you remove a fuse to prevent the engine to start? Or you just use the starter without the spark plugs? Thanks.
if the plugs are out, the engine won't start...I use the starter at the final stage just before I put the plugs back in to blow any left over crap from the cylinders but ALWAYS spin the motor by hand multiple times before using the starter. If you want to turn off the fuel pump so the injectors aren't firing fuel while cranking you can pull the fuel pump fuse...I personally don't bother and just crank it as is. Once the plugs go back in, the engine will start...
Try Valvoline Restore & Protect oil?
Valvoline needs to offer its Restore & Protect oil with Audi specs. It would sell out.
Thank You very much❤
Great content man!