Will Yamalube Ring Free stop oil consumption? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 20
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- Опубликовано: 8 мар 2023
- Can Yamalube Ring Free unstick the oil control rings and unclog the piston oil drain-back holes?
Yamalube Ring Free Plus: www.amazon.com/Yamalube-ACC-R...
#1zz #oilburner #corollalovers
Music:
Sunset Dream by Cheel
Borescope: Depstech WF-25
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this RUclips channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. 
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Previous video: ruclips.net/video/Y5RzFYMYaJI/видео.html
Oil burning experiments playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
Valve steam seals. Need your help.
6:42 Putting 93 on a Corolla? 🤨
I subscribed exclusively for this series, have you tried using Lucas heavy duty stabilizer or Lucas + Stop leak? Good luck.
@@theguycanfly98 Thanks! I did use Lucas in a VTEC Accord and it shut down the VTEC. I also used Barrs Stop Leak several videos back in this series. The thing is, I don't want to plug any holes up with thickening additives and metal conditioners (e.g. a lot of viewers recommend Restore), I want to unclog and loosen things up with cleaners to see if we can get the engine working like it's supposed to. That's not to say we can, but I'd like to prove it one way or the other. Thanks for the sub and the comment!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I believe Lucas has a thinner full synthetic for low viscosity oil. Hear me out maybe add a little less than recommended of the lucas to thicken the oil a touch and maybe whatever cleaner you put in there will hold onto the rings better like the yamalube if you do another go as this cleaner. Just a thought, but I am highly invested in knowing if any of these will work, or if you finally just have to disassemble the motor and manually unstick the rings or get new rings.
Your doing us all a great service- sharing your findings. Thank you.
Long time viewer, 1st time commenting
My 98 corolla had mass oil consumption almost a quart a week, driving hard about 75+ daily miles odometer at 187,xxx
Decided to use Amsoil Engine Flush one of its details says Helps loosen sticky valves and rings, minimizing blow-by and reducing emissions on top of reading reviews why not give it a shot
For $27 best product I’ve used with 1 use and great results
I still have the oil I flushed out and it was very dark with small crumbs it sure loosened allot in there and after driving nearly 200 miles under 3hrs oil was still golden and oil consumption was way down had me smiling only had to splash a wee bit oil about 100ml or so, before that trip would’ve been around 400-500ml of oil consumption also running a oil catch can to help prevent blow by into intake manifold
That's awesome. Please keep us posted on your usage! ... Anyone else interested in the Amsoil Flush, give LegitHP's comment a like!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think that you probably have an valve seal problem too. Anyway... Sometimes, drives it to the rev limiter, and let it hit there, a couple of times while ur using the products...
U aren't gonna fix this no matter what u put in it. U got leaking valve seals or something else
@@kwmiked These Corollas are known for having the piston ring issues so I think he's on the right track.
@@kwmiked He already did the valve stem seals dude.
I'm waiting for the episode where you try packing all the cylinders with black powder and light the fuse.. LoL
I said BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner would be the grand finale ... but now I'm reconsidering :-)
Wouldn’t that just add way more carbon? 😂
Perfect!
@@5roundsrapid263 😀👍
@@5roundsrapid263 Try modern smokeless powder, lol.
Johnny come lately here You can dump as much death in a can as you want its not going to add back the cross hatching that looks heavily worn gone and rings that are in need of replacement. You want a suggestion do a shade tree mech in frame , drop the pan remove the head and one piston at a time change the rings and ball hone the cylinder and throw it back together of course after you run out of death in a can idea's
I discovered YLRF in 2006 with AMAZING results over & over again & again. From outboards, lawnmowers, chainsaws & ANY 2 or 4 stroke engine. It has cleaned dirty fuel systems in minutes, un-stuck stuck valves & piston rings, increased power & overall performance throughout all throttle ranges...I even add to the fuel in my 2007 Expedition several times a year. The stuff has proven itself to me & I am a believer!
Awesome video again! Following all the videos I remain at the conclusion worn piston rings. Even with a clean engine and cylinders it continues to burn oil. Also a tip, if you measure pressure in cylinders with so much oil in them, the pressure will probably be always just fine because the cylinders are so wet. The excess oil seals the cylinders. And BG products rock!
This series ages like a fine wine.
Much appreciated!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY of course, but you know…the sooner you figure this out the sooner I can fix the oil burning issue in my wife’s car. ;)
Another great job Dave right down to smelling your fumes and the cruisin' tunes! Top of those pistons look great. Every new episode I think... "I bet Dave never thought this corolla oil burning series would go this far down the rabbit hole." Yamalube is for sure doing something. Cheers till the next one!
Thanks 🐰
That is definitely the cleanest the piston tops have ever looked thru. out the entire series, very interesting with the Yamalube! I agree with you about running with the Yamalube for awhile in gas & crankcase, but I know you are trying so hard to follow your same logic until the end, T.Y. so much a very watchful friend!!!
Thanks for the kind comment!!
Love this ongoing experiment! Keep on please.
Thanks, thats the plan! ... or at least until it's fixed. :-)
Shocked by Yamaha Ring Free. Those pistons look almost new. Not sure if it's the fuel additive or the combination of crankcase, but really surprised 😯
Looking better all the time! Great data that your giving thank you for that.
Thanks for watching, Rod!
The Ring Free is good stuff. We sell it all the time. It’s kinda expensive though.
I tell people that buy it to use it in their old tired lawn mowers.
Use it at double strength right before you change oil. It will trash new oil when the gunk turns loose.
I love this channel, cause of the experiments you do on the oil burning machine it’s the best!
Thank you!
Great and informative video, very good cleaning on the pistons from the Yamalube ring free treatment 😊👍 Looking forward for the BG treatment, I'm very curious on that.
Dave, a great study to show it cleans. I enjoyed your test study & as i progresses with your progress. You give great presentation on camera & easy going. always, Tommy🤠.
Much appreciated, Tommy!
I agree with you. You'll likely clean those pistons almost completely. Compression has likely come up some; hence the power increase. However that oil tells me mechanical wear of rings and or bore. You've achieved a lot though.
Great experiment. Your vids keep getting better. Got to thank you again did the berry b12 to my 2014 Kia and now it's not burning any oil.
Great to hear!
Change your oil every 3k miles. That will help more than anything
@@jerbear7952 GDI are known for this even if you do 3k or 4k oil changes
I love these Corollas maybe alittle too much. Local shop I worked at for years had a 1998 Corolla manual with a bad heater core and from then on it was love at first drive. (Fast forward 10 years) Now I run my own mechanic shop and I have a 1998 Corolla manual and a 2001 Corolla automatic for a loaner cars. Some people really don’t understand the beauty in simplicity of these cars.
I stumbled across your videos a couple months back trying to solve the oil burning issues. I tried the B12 chem tool for 48 hours, let it idle for 10min then changed the oil. And I’ve noticed a massive difference already! So I thank you for these videos. I get a lot of satisfaction from fixing these Corollas.
On my 2001 automatic Corolla (I just bought for $600) it has a bad rod bearing so I’ll be getting the satisfaction of finally rebuilding a 1zzfe and putting new pistons rings in it and let me tell you I can not freakin wait to take the pistons out of that thing.
I feel like you deserve the satisfaction of holding that piston in your hand.
Great testimony. Glad to hear it worked! ... and I might have the pistons out eventually, we'll see.
Dave thank you for your great videos. Our 2018 Kia Sportage 2.4L GDI with 80K miles has been burning 1.5 quarts every 1000 miles. I performed your Chem Tool B-12 treatment and WOW 700 miles later zero oil consumption. Also the oil looks super clean, before the oil quickly turned black after an oil change. Keep up the great work my friend! 👍
Great to hear, and thanks for the update!!
The PCV residue will kill GDI engines about 150,000 miles. The valves coke up so badly they won't seat. Synthetic oil always changed by Kia dealer.
2019 Soul 1.6 stick shift.
And change your oil every 3k
This has been a great series so far. When you decide to stop the experiments, replacing the pistons and rings with the engine in the car, it is relative simple repair.
Thanks. And if a chemical can't get us below a quart in 3000 miles, I plan on doing a re-ring video 👍👍
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was just thinking the same thing watching this video that as many times as you've pulled the spark plugs, changed the oil, and just generally messed around under the hood that you could have easily just swapped in some new rings. For the record, I'm pretty happy that you didn't choose the easy fix as this series is beyond fascinating!
@@bnations2000 Thanks ... and a teardown might still be in the future :-)
@@nat0radeno. Time, and it is invasive. But not hard. Need to understand what your doing and why your doing it though to ensure a good rebuild.
For a trained mechanic though, right? Even aside from the winch to remove the engine, the tools you need are pretty specialized (from the videos I’ve watched). I’d love to change the rings on my 2az fe, but I’m just getting started and it’s probably a couple years of consistent car work before I’d feel confident enough to pull and disassemble the engine.
21:38 Dave. If you added one quart of the HPL EC (that's High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner) maybe even 40 weight engine oil instead of the 30. That would pretty much be the ultimate test of if the thicker viscosity (combined with their special formulation) helps slow or eliminate ???? consumption on high speed driving. I'd spent that $15 in a heartbeat. I really hope that sounds interesting to you. I see it is usually fresh oil. The HPL EC is actually formulated as an engine oil to not upset any of the additive packages that are in the other oil, the oil you are using is fine.. I too keep using 5W-30 I've been experimenting with 40 grade oils lately. The first number (the 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20 before the W) is "Winter" and has NOTHING to do with the second number, which is the API or SAE (brain fart) grade of the oil.
Whoever wants me to try HPL EC please give 82_KID's comment a like!!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY One of the reasons I mention it so much is that people don't really know the brand and they are some super good stuff. "Better" than AMSOIL!
I've used a similar product called Auto-RX after a BG EPR flush for a late oci (900miles over) sludged engine running synthetic blend from the dealer. The BG EPR alone did not stop the oil consumption and smoking, but the auto-rx seemed to start working after around 400 miles. Both Auto-RX and HPL EC are oil esters and work over a shorten oil change interval. I think their only downside is the micron size of the debris (reformation) and the need to at least change the oil filter at around 1000 miles.
I EPR Method: (1) Warm up the engine until the radiator fan blows 2-3 times. (2) Add BG EPR and run at idle for 20 minutes [remains active for 40 minutes.] (3) For the last 5 minutes cycle between idle and 2000 rpm. (4) Turn engine off and change oil/filter.
II Auto-RX Method: (1) {Cleaning Cycle} Add 12 oz of Auto-RX to a fresh oil and filter change. Use your normal weight oil (5w30), but make sure it is group III (Pennzoil Platinum.) (2) Drive 900-1200 miles (max 1500) under any driving conditions. Esters can continue to clean up to a year. (3) {Rinse Cycle} Change the oil (group III) and filter. Drive another 900-1200 miles (max 1500.) (4) For piston ring ("ring pack") cleaning repeat the cleaning and rinse cycles again.
My notes say to use 28.5oz of HPL and 4.45Qt (5qt system) for 16.67% concentration. (10-20%.) BITOG forum has a thread dedicated to HPL EC.
@@macready0230 Yes! I'm trying to convince him to give the HPL a shot lol! I had my chance, I accidentally deleted contact info so it is so hard to let that go.
@@82_KID Uhm, I've been shot down so many times I've lost count. I had a comment on using stihl decarbonizer deleted with no backup.
I like this channel as you can see which products work, which others may help but dont fix it, i want to see if you can try the bg dynamic cleaner treatment, that one is expensive but puts stress on the engine to let the product work, but if those dont work you can conclude worn rings, block or oil seals.but the journey of this channel saves tons of money to everybody, thank you for sharing your experience with us.
Check the evap purge valve in the engine bay. Incorrect purge flow is caused by a leaking purge valve allow intake manifold vacuum to pull fuel vapor into the engine. Very noticeable after fueling up. Hopefully that check helps.
Try this one. ACDelco GM Original Equipment 10-3015 Engine Cylinder/Combustion Chamber Cleaner - 32 oz
Thanks for the suggestion!
Some DTCs require failing the internal tests on 2 consecutive trips to log as a current code. ALSO, for many manufacturers, the EVAP system test won't run if the fuel tank is too full or too empty. It might not run unless you do a cold start as well so while the chemicals might be helping the EVAP issues somehow, you might be chasing a red herring
Absolutely agree, the live data through the OBD would be a great comparison instead of relying on a single light that has a possible 500 causes
Thank you for this video. You have proven conclusively that these products can have an effect.
Thanks for the kind comments!
I waited up till 2am just in case you uploaded a piston ring vid update tonight (this morning?) and I am glad i did
Much appreciated, Nick!!
As a professional mechanic, this is the stuff I wish I could do with customer cars. Unfortunately it's not feasible for obvious reasons.
Loving what you are finding out tho, along the way.
Hey bud, I wanted to give you some feedback. I recently purchased a fleet of MINI Bloopers from a customer. If you know Bloopers, mistakes were made, and they are notorious oil burners.
Well my BG service rep came by and offered me their engine Dynamic Restorer kit. I was skeptical, but he swore up and down its tried and true.
I watched some videos on RUclips, and was pretty impressed with the results. So I decided to use it. I can tell you with 100% certainty it solved the oil consumption issues on two of my Bloopers. Only the third has bad valve stem seals and smokes after prolonged idle. The other two however, are not consuming oil at all. To the point where I'm not even checking the oil as frequently.
The stuff IS pricey (low 300's for a 4 item kit), but it's a lot more money to replace rings on an engine.
As a professional would you say that this stuff would be be safe or use at your own risk on an automotive four-cylinder engine? What potential harm would stuff cause on engine internals or the catalytic converter?
I think what you're seeing with the borescope is carbon deposits from the piston and rings sloughing off onto the cylinders. I think you need more Italian tune ups to really burn off the carbon that is slowly dissolving, especially if you do a lot of city driving short trips like I do. My car won't run right unless I do some hard pulls every few days. I have an idea for an atypical additive for freeing the rings, and that's motorkote. It's a metal binding lubricant that is really effective at reducing friction and freeing things up. It's possible a hyper lubricant could act as a way to unstick some sticky rings, but not so much for the drain back holes. Project farm did a really good video on motorkote with impressive results on friction. One last thing is EVAP problems are super intermittent, and often throw codes, then fix themselves.Can't wait to see the BGK video, and as always I'm enjoying the scientific process of this series!
Thanks for the suggestion!
If I've learned anything, it's that Dave has good taste in cruisin' music.
The sesame street gig brings back memories great videos keep it going.
That was one of my favorite parts of Sesame Street. That and the painter that always painted the numbers on the wrong thing 😄
Wow that really cleaned the pistons.
This product has worked well for me before ... i am now using amsoil with very good results 🍻
Good info. Thanks, Eric.
Hi ,I have seen all your car videos and have loved the lot .I would just like to say thanks and well done..
I really appreciate that! 😊
Great video, very interesting. Looking forward to the BG results. Thanks
Thanks :-)
I've had 2 of these engines. prizm and celica. I'd say 20w50 would be the best oil to use besides in winter temps below 20 degrees. I used straight 40 weight in my celica and it did help with oil consumption.
1zz-fe? Just wondering since I have an 04 vibe that’s burning oil slowly
My thought is try a catch can to see it you are battling two issues I have been using ring free in the gas for all my water craft and small engines for 10 year I can say starting them never been easer and I don`t have to use combustion cleaner in the two strokes and more.
New here...i dunno all you have tried or done. But the first things I look and address with oil burning is to clean or replace the PCV valve then put a catch can inline between the PCV and the intake manifold. Also add a catch can inline on the breather side. It would help monitor how much oil is being drawn thru those sources. Judging by the straight oil in the cylinders its likely coming thru those sources vs the rings going off the strong compression numbers.
Love the video
Can't wait tell them next one
Be safe
hi mate. i d check the pvc valve..if it s stuck it will create pression which will force the oil between the cylinder sleeve and piston rings.
I have heard pretty good results with the Amzoil Signature series too so I may try that if the Auto-Rx doesn't pan out.
I’m from Greenville too I drive I-85 everyday to work and back, it’s nice to see a local RUclipsr from this area
Hey neighbor :-)
Have you considered some valve guide seals. Also, consider a thorough inspection of the PCV system...the valve cover is also an air-oil separator. If clogged in just the right way, the engine oil vapors will get pushed past the piston rings due to clogged pcv. I'm just curious if that pcv valve, or some of the chambers inside the valve cover.
Toyota recommends using a higher viscosit in oil, in engines prone to consumption, and it was in a service bulletin. That being said, I would recommend using a diesel oil that covers the SEA requirements for gasoline engines. Diesel oils have a significantly higher detergent component, designed to dissolve carbon and soot. This works on the oil control rings, such as the additives being tested, and results will be noticed over long-term use, not in a meer 1000 miles.
Diesel oil that’s good for cats? Which one is that??
@sirdewd2197 Oils with dual SAE designation such as CL4 / SN, as an example. C is for compression ignition, and S is for spark. Therefore, SN can be used in gasoline engines with an SN or lower requirement such as SG, SL, and so forth.
i would not use that heavy of oil unless u wanna overheat ur engine
@@lexi-conby obviously you have little knowledge about oil, as viscosity wasn't even mentioned.
You need to turn the gas cap and listen for 6 or so clicks. Not sure what the manufacturer recommends but that's how I do it. You tighten up the gas cap and it just stops you need to do some more to hear the clicks. Much better seal for the EVAP system.
Firm believer in Yamalube oils, used the brand for many years. If you dont mind smoke the old school method in a cattle syringe 10-30cc of diesel poured in each sparkplug hole on a warm engine, let sit for a few days then start to free up stuck oil rings. longer it sits the better
That bg is good stuff. Unstopped a oil feed passage way to my last lifter. I had to do it every year but it worked. I installed new lifters and still had one tick from not getting oil. Bg fixed it.
I don't think your going after the problem you have.... I think it's the valve stem seals not the rings because you have oil on the top of the piston and the engine is blowing oil smoke out of it when you start the engine. The vacuum of the engine is pulling the oil through the the valve guides because the valve stems seals are probably rock hard and the guides may be loose (worn) too. You can put as much snake oil (oil additives) as you want in the engine it is not going to repair valve guide seals that are rock hard and no longer function or loose valve guides. You don't get deposits of oil on the top of the pistons like that with sticking rings because the pressure is forced down not up into the conbustion chamber you would get a ton of blowby. Try this to see if the rings are sealing, open the oil cap put a rubber glove over the hole where you add oil and seal it good. Rev the engine a bunch of times and see if the glove fills up. If it does fill a lot then you have blow by if not it's something else like what I mentioned above. My two cents from a technician of 45 years.
I have a 99 Corolla and burn about 1 1/4 every 1000 miles. Still gonna try a B12 treatment and see if it fixes it. I'm also gonna run 0W-30 oil in it to see if that helps after the cleanup. Thanks for these vids Dave it helps a lot.
Thanks for the comment, and please let us know how it goes!
13:50 😆
Loving the series, you do great work…
Thanks! 😁 ... and thank YOU for always watching.
I haven't been following all of your videos, but the P0441 is usually super easy to diagnose. unplug the purge solenoid electrical connector and the cannister side vacuum hose. Start the car, if you feel vacuum at the solenoid nipple, the solenoid has failed open.
When you eventually tear down the engine I hope you measure how out of round the cylinders have gotten since new which could help explain things , cant wait for the next video and the tear down some day
If he had a borescope with a side camera he could inspect the cylinder walls and look for deformations/scratches/smooth spots.
Video 4 of suggesting Kreen for a piston soak and engine cleaning!
:-) ... If y'all want to see a Kreen soak, please like Kenneth's comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY If you think you still have stuck rings, then isn't soaking them for days upon days, from the top down, make sense? Maybe drain out the oil, add cleaner to the top of the piston, let it drain through and even reuse the cleaner that comes out of the oil pan that has no oil in it? Repeated soakings for days? Check BDC and TDC drain rates? Maybe try to push the piston near TFC, into the sidewalls, with a wooden dowel it you're brave enough, to try and break those rings free from the gunk and varnish from excessive heat that 4 cylinders usually run at?
Or do you just want to keep making videos for money or the attention or disproving engine cleaners?
Hey Dave I ending putting a new engine in today unfortunately with my previous engine lost compression in number 2 cylinder from a broken compression ring. Keep the great videos coming sir!
Aw man. Thank you, and I hope you get a lot of life out of your new engine.
Have you added oil to the cylinder after first compression check and checking again. That’s how we used to check rings when j was a kid. The other method is a regulated air compression leak down test. Those are used commonly on aircraft engines to assess ring wear and effectiveness.
I wonder if soaking some Berryman chem dip in the cylinders would free them, I’ve seen how that stuff just melts away carbon and dirt and I wonder if since it soaks down it would just clean those rings right up. Or maybe later try some bg dynamic engine cleaner oil, stuff is pretty expensive, around 200$ but I’ve seen videos show how it cleans engines up really nice.
I want to see the tear down of this engine :)
Use Berrymans chem dip! The carburetor parts cleaner. Just make sure to vacuum it all out and change the oil before starting
I use BG 109 all the time and it’s by far the best product I’ve used, they also offer a solution kit called Dynamic restoration and is a 3 step engine flush I believe, havnt tried that one myself but from what I’ve seen online, it’s an awesome product
Hello Dave, I have been following along with your Oil Burning series as I have an oil burning Honda Element. I posted a comment on video eleven. My efforts included Seafoam, which de-sludged my engine, Toyota engine cleaner, noticed no difference. I tried a product my neighbour recommended, he works for a GM dealer, AC Delco engine oil supplement. This product is not marketed as a engine ring cleaner but as a engine rebuilding lubricant and I noticed a difference immediately in the level of noise the engine made and my oil consumption. After 3 treatments following the instructions on the bottle oil consumption was cut in half. I then tried what might turn out to be the most successful product yet, Castrol GTX Ultraclean 5W-30 synthetic engine oil! Boy did this stuff turn black fast. After 1500 miles I changed the oil and filter and repeat. 1500 miles later again changed the oil and filter. The oil was again black but the oil consumption was noticeably less. Now on my third Castrol GTX Ultraclean oil change, the oil has not changed color and consumption is way down. I will update this comment in a couple of months as not enough time/miles have been driven. Car idles/runs better than ever though. You may want to try a oil that is marketed to clean engines rather than a additive that cleans engines in a future test. The oil is in the engine longer. I must say I was impressed with the Yamalube ring free plus product. Thank you for posting these videos.
That’s awesome, and thanks for the suggestion!
Update?
We have continued to use the Castrol Ultraclean in our Honda Element. The engine is now consuming about a quart every 450 miles however the color of the oil remains transparent a lot longer. Oil consumption has gotten worse but highway speeds tend to consume more oil as Dave has mentioned. I'm going to try a Yamaha ring free treatment next@@Tate.TopG.
@buckhorn2007 Thanks a lot for the updates. I have a tacoma 2.7L, and it's consuming quite a bit of oil before I reach the 3000 miles . I may have to try your method 😉
BG sells an engine flush kit that's really good stuff. I use it on a 13 escape with stuck oil rings and it fixed the oil consumption problem. It's crazy expensive, $300ish bucks but it cost a whole lot less than an engine.
I’ve seen this kit advertised. Very hard to come by - especially in the UK!
That'll be the grand finale if nothing else works!
I've used BG EPR (was CPR) on my shop for years. Engines with high mileage sorry to say just are worn out. But can't wait to see what happens.
Hey Dave, I like your videos on the Corolla. I have a 98 RAV4 with 274,000. I was gonna tell you about the premium fuel, but somebody beat me to it. Premium fuel is less volatile than regular made for engines built with tighter tolerances so they need less of an explosion in the combustion chamber. Thanks.
Dave Can not wait to see the bg109 test just alittle heads up , the bg 109 is ( Heat Activated) make sure you are at operating temperature. and at 2,000 rpm for 20 min. I have used this on my own car and 3 of my nephews and one nieces car and it worked.
Thanks for the advice, JimBob 👍
I had an 88' Nissan Pulsar NX. 1.6L L4 E16 Beautiful engine.
I used to run 1 pint of KleenStrip acetone per fill up in gas tank (11 gals).
It dumbed down the octane, promoted a higher conflagration rate, very clean exhaust.
I deleted the Catalytic converter, replaced with a silver painted Thrush glass pack, then a regular muffler. It was quiet and smokeless. The acetone helps everything to burn up.
It would keep the plugs clean, rings sharp. The 88' E16 is very snappy, like a chainsaw!
That's awesome! Unfortunately my test have faltered abit getting a new engine for the rav. 4k later will give updates soon!
4!
Another interested video. Cheers
Thanks!
I think you should consider usign multiple times Liqui Moly engine flush pro line in the oil when the engine is hot for 12-15 minutes and then change the oil, this stuf is top level in Europe. If you want to you should definitly use Tec 2000 engine flush (30ml) in each of the cilinders as and extra step and let it go through the piston ring to the oil, then change the oil. Next crank the engine without the sparkplugs to remove the rest of that Tec 2000 from the piston tops, reinstall sparkplugs and go for a nice "Italian tune-up" aka. drive the car hard with high RPM ;)
i used LM engine flush and it did nothing... still burning 1L/500km on my 07 avensis 2.4L 2AZFSE
Dave, first off all thanks for all your great videos on oil burning… man you are persistent and with patience with that car. I do wanna see your results with the BG treatment, i already did that and this is my story: 2013 sonata gls, known for burning oil. It has the issue since 55k and now has 96k, i did a lot of stuff trying to fix the issue but no success. I did your method with Barryman and i soaked the rings for 3 days and cranking twice a day and adding 1oz in every cylinder after crank. Car barely started after that. When I started and got warm i added the entire can of BG and run it for 25 min at 2250rmp. In a meantime i installed oil catch can and switch from mobil 1 full synthetic to Valvoline for the first time ever. The car used to burn 1qtr every 700-800 miles. Now after 860 miles not even single drop is burned and the oil look’s crystal clear. I can not even believe it got fixed. Waiting to see your experience. Good luck from NJ
That's great to hear! Hopefully I'll see some results too. 👍
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY here is my update after more than a month: was checking every 800 miles how the engines performs, at 2400 miles no oil burned and dipstick level is to the top dot.
At 3400 1gtr of oil is gone and the level is now at the bottom dot. I added 1qtr and i will be checking the level at 4K miles, now im wondering what happened so no oil was burned and what changed in those 1000 miles between 2400-3400 so 1gtr is missing??? From what i see online, someone was doing the same thing and after the flush he changed the oil and the filter, drive it for another 30 min and change the oil and filter again so it flushes the rest of chemicals. I will try this and see how it goes. I was happy for a month or so that all is good but now back to square 1 and keep trying to see what is happening. Did your oil consumption changed from 900 miles/ 1gtr?
Hi
I am new to your channel. How is the Corolla doing? Have you checked the valve stem seals? I wonder if the oil on top of the pistons in getting there thru those seals.
My old Civic was burning oil. Nothing like this Corolla, but nothing like new either. I improved it significantly with nothing more than a few good old Italian tune ups.
I believe you added about 10 times more Yamalube into your gas tank than the directions suggested......but hey what a great job it did! Hope you try an Amsoil engine flush at some point and Amsoil PI Performance Improver in your gas tank. Btw....Fantastic vids Dave! Enjoying the journey......
Thanks for the suggestion!
I thought I was the only one who caught that
Copied from the website he referenced: SHOCK TREATMENT: 2 oz./gal. CONSTANT TREATMENT: 1 oz./10 gals.
Old school of over 60 years ago would use bon ami cleanser to reseat rings to prevent blow by and get better compression
I could see that. I know a guy who worked at the Vespa factory in Italy many years ago, and he said they would remove the air filters and drive the Vespas on a dusty dirt road in order to break in the engines.😯
They sure do look clean! A lot of oil on top of them though. I would be shocked if the oil rings were still stuck after all the treatments you've done to that thing they gotta be worn out but who knows. Let's see how the EPR does, just ran some in my car and it os definitely a potent smell!! May run a quart in mine again though just cleaning up the inside of the used engine I installed that was a little neglected.
Adding it to the gas tank means it will be burnt and leave carbon deposits in the cylinders so don't be surprised if it doesn't work or even gets worse. Should have added it through the spark plugs then let it sit for a day
Well it definitely looks like the Yamalube Ring Free did something. It seems like it would be worth changing the oil every 1000 miles and continuing to adi the Yamalube to the fresh clean oil and gas. Really good videos Dave! Thanks for sharing. 😁👍🤞
You're right. If I wasn't making videos, I'd probably do just that-- or something similar.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY surely every chemical is helping clean the engine, though yamalube definitely has made a difference. To clean the oil rings I believe its necessary to treat the engine from the crankcase over time. I've used liquid moly oil flush also Wynns oil flush on the last 2 1000 mile oil changes. The last time with Wynns oil flush however rather than letting the car idle I waited until temps were up then I drove it hard for about 30 miles, the oil came out like out of a diesel engine. Its a vw 1.6 petrol, tohc 16v vvt. I've had it with different mechanics to try to get it running better but so far no-one can fix it. The only improvements were from spraying water mist into the throttle valve plus fuel and oil cleaners. It didn't burn a lot of oil like yours however compression is only 100psi on 3 cylinders and cylinder 3 had only about 85psi, that was a few months ago before all the flushing, I think its time to do another compression test to see if that has improved or not. This engine has 120k miles plus looks like it's been deprived of normal service intervals. The 2 common fault codes I get are Lambda 1 outside parameters and knock sensor. I have replaced knock and MAP sensor, on live diagnostic lambda sensor is working fine, except it is intermittent when driving or maybe a broken wire, I think replacing lambda sensor is my next move. When I bought the car it was knocking and pinging so bad I had to ease off on the gas to save the engine from wrecking itself, I though big ends were going out was so bad. Both cats have been removed by previous owners.. with the cleaning there's now no problems with knocking but I'm still getting the same 2 codes lambda plus knock sensor.
To make a long story short I think it's important to keep a engine very clean, even though we have failed to fix the real fault code cleaning has left the car driveable, I am considering constantly running the oil with pre change flush as I think it takes a lot of time to dissolve the built up carbon and a lot of oil changes to carry the carbon away, obviously any chemical treatment will weaken as it works so I think it's takes a lot longer and regular drains with cleaning chemicals refreshed often for any chance to unstick dirty oil rings. I've seen one guy bench soak testing many different chemicals like seafome, lucas, etc on old removed pistons with stuck carboned up rings. The most effective Chem was white vinegar. I know this sounds crazy but I think if you were to drain the engine, remove spark plugs, and then fill it up to the neck, I mean until it runs out of spark plugs, rocker cover etc. with white vinegar then carefully and slowly turning the engine over by hand brace at 6 hour intervals as you did, but over a few days, then drain out the vinegar and replace with oil, I would suggest a double oil change to rinse out the vinegar and be sure full lubrication is back throughout the engine before restarting it, probably better not even start the engine on first oil change, just crank it without plugs or fuel. This would be an interesting project. My point is white vinegar releases stuck oil rings better than all the other expensive chemicals I've seen sofar, however how do you get it to the oil rings to soak without dismantling the engine. I think it would take a couple of gallon of strong vinegar, I've no idea if it would have any negative effects on seals or gaskets etc but my guess it would stop any oil residue protection from the shell berrings so no way could you run the engine or even think about it until the vinegar was well flushed out..
@@martinmuldoon603 Thanks for the suggestion, Martin. I watched the vinegar video (I think it was This Old Tony?) but he said it only worked on the rings because they were stuck with rust, and that he didn't think it would work on combustion byproducts.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY where is the before photos of the pistons?
@@wazup3333 previous videos
DIY Dave,great videos. I love seeing how these chemicals are working for you. My 06 corolla has 192k miles and doesn't burn any oil. But my 2011 honda crv burns about 1 quart every 1200 miles (142k miles). I will be doing Berrymans chemtool before next oil change on that.
Thanks, Joseph. And please let us know how it goes!
This brings me back to pouring a quart of oil each week in my Prius when I was driving 100 miles a day. I tried a lot of treatments but ended up putting a junkyard engine in that cost me $400.
Subaru impreza 2007, more than 750k (my grandmas) started using oil, stuck rings. Used liqui moly pro line flush like so:
When the oil change came aroud a full botle, idle about 15 minutes with the car previously hot, drain oil and get some new oil and filter in there, run the car for 1 hour and then do another oil change with the good stuff and oem filter, also added some stop leak (there was no leaks but I use it every 4-6 oil changes to keep rubber and plastic seals in top shape), the car now used the normal 500ml between oil changes (5000mi), it was using about 3 quarts.
Have you considered "Stiction Eliminator" oil additive by Hot Shot's Secret? The diesel guys rave about it breaking up sticky engine sludge and ending smokey starts. Can be used on gas engines too.
Not yet. Thanks for the recommendation.
Thanks for the video. You really shouldn't be using premium gas. Higher octane only helps if you have higher compression ratios and it will actually lead to un-burned fuel being pushed into the crank case. The Yamalube looks like it did a great job. I think you have the right idea to run the Yamalube for longer. Looking forward to the BG. Great series. By the way, a time laps of the bore scope would be nice and a chart showing oil consumption vs mileage (and notes on highway mileage) would be nice too. (I know, it's a lot to ask but going forward maybe?) Have a great one.
Thanks for the input Bruce! ... I'd love to do the charts and stuff (like Project Farm). Maybe I'll have time at the end of the series to have a follow-up with info like that in it. … oh and I get pre-detonation if I use lower octane fuel.
Just as an aside, though this is heavily bound on the fuel market for your area, using premium fuel is one of the few ways to get guaranteed ethanol-free in large density metro areas to folks who are concerned about mandated ethanol use. You're spot on about not seeing any performance difference on normal engines though. In our area of the DFW metroplex for example, almost all stations have gone to running a 10% ethanol blend even in regular 'ol 87 for emissions, but so far as engine durability and the requiescence of subsystems (fuel lines, seals, etc), the ethanol blends are most certainly a detriment to be avoided if you can. A properly maintained engine will burn cleaner and pollute less than having ethanol forced upon one self, but that's a rather slim slice of the market these days.
06 sienna rips tires from 1st into 2nd almost into 3rd when i ask it to. 196700 miles. Go beat your motor a little.
Higher octanes shouldn't have that effect, most of what higher octane does is be more likely to burn when sparked and not pre-ignite/knock. It's necessary for high compression ratios due to the compression ratios making pre-ignition more likely, but should pose no harm when used in an engine designed to handle lower octane fuels. It won't net you any performance out of it, but if you have an engine that has a history of trouble, it can only help to run high octane fuel through it to at least see if it runs any differently, if not just to err on the side of caution while doing other maintanence things to try to bring it back to health.
In a high mileage engines with sufficient carbon build up, the compression ratio might naturally become higher. But with knock sensors and whatnot, yes, the ECU will retard timing to prevent knocking on low octane fuel.
Good content
Sealing rings are done.... the crude on your plugs, the top of pistons and continued loss of oil says it all. That is not a manufacturing issue and additives this late in game cant fix the issue.
we',ve been yama lube using for many years.
The fastest way to see a difference and if it works, use it in your gas weed eater that you premix. Watch how fast it cleans the over oiling.
Terrific in the 250 Mercury XB
However no product can substitute lack of maintenance. Many owners dont change oil for 10,000 miles and use the cheapest fuel that does not have any detergents. trying to save pennies or expecting a car to work perfect forever will never happen. Even tanks take 4 times maintenance then run time.
Thanks again for content
I have been researching more about rings and oil drain holes.
The top ring is the compression.
The second ring does a lot of the oil sweeping off the walls.
The third does the rest.
That sweeping has to go somewhere and that's the oil return holes.
The cross hatching on the cylinder is supposed to hold some oil on the walls.
If the oil returns are blocked then the oil swept off has no where to go.
I have seen B12 recipes that say instead of a hard drive after blow compressed air into the cylinders. A leak down test.
This would put pressure on the holes.
I'm gearing up to try this.
I have a2002 Celica with the 1zz.
Oil consumption is still huge.
But the oil stays cleaner longer.
I find it I keep it and 2krpm it burns much slower. But 60mph in 5th is 3k rpm.
Last oil change I put a can of B12 in the oil and let it idle.
Sitting idle I got no extra smoke from exhaust.
But if I revved it to 3k It started smoking.
So id guess that I don't really start burning until about 3k rpm.
I started doing a top and bottom seafoam attack. In the gas and in the oil.
Also started the redline every day approach. Getting onto a freeway on ramp red line with wide open throttle in 2nd and 3rd(if possible)
I literally mean redline.
Id say this helped my power noticably. Oil consumption at
I'm very curios to see how your engine flush with BG EPR will work for you. I did it on my Volvo and we went from a liter every 1000 miles to less than a liter in 4500 before the next oil change
I tried BG EPR (Bg109) with my Gen 3 Prius before an oil change. No change of the oil consumption rate after the treatment.
Maybe remind us all you’ve done the valve stem seals at the beginning of each episode. Curious if it still pings on regular with the carbon mostly gone. Looking forward to the final chapter where you replace the pistons and rings with updated parts! Fun series.
I hadn't thought about the carbon contributing to the knocking. You're right. Maybe I'll try 87 next time to see if it's cleared up.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I was going to say the same thing this guy did because any hot spots on a piston due to carbon buildup will see less issues on super
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I think you could do with a new set of plugs or at least a good clean should help to run at its best, I don't claim it will help oil burning.
That's really high cranking compression for regular gas.
@@hotrodray6802 Even with the high 10:1 compression ratio and effectively a wet test with all the oil in the cylinders I’d still only expect 180 or so. 240 is a head scratcher unless there’s really that much carbon in the combustion chamber we can’t see.
I haven't been to Greenville in a while, but I recognized it in your video. Lots of changes since I was there in the mid 80s.
Crazy amount of changes!! Thanks for watching :-)
The cylinder walls are like glass. Its probably going to consume oil even with perfect rings. I had the same issue with yamaha yzf1000. If fuel has washed the walls and they are polished. Oil consumption is constant. It would need a honing job to get the grosshatch back. But freeing piston rings can still lower the consumption.
I had a toyota prius with the same issue. The only thing that was able to reduce its consumption was the chem tool as well. I had hoped to solve the problem completely as I've always used synthetic oil and my oil burn off was nowhere near as bad as yours. Id lose about a QT per thousand miles. After treatment I lost about a 3rd of a qt every thousand miles lol.
Glad to hear you saw some results with B12!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY im thinking about trying the bg dynamic engine cleaner on it. Comes at a hefty price though. But I'm desperate. Hate buying oil like gas lol.
Curious if the cat P 420 pending code is still there. As all the carbon from the motor passes through the catilytic converter is it being harmed in the " decarbonizing " process ? Thanks for sharing the adventure.
Might be I got experience with seafoam intake service totally kill my cat
The long time oil burning is most likely what damaged the cat.
Gas tank additives don't do anything more than the gas does as a solvent. Port fuel injected engines will have cleaner valves since the gas is always being sprayed on the valves, unlike GDI? If your fuel injectors are dirty, then a additive may help, but it will not clean the combustion chamber or top of pistons?
Howdy Dave! Firstly WOW I love your videos. I’m 28 and am at the edge of my seat for this series more than any show.
The wife and I both have our own separate 2nd Gen Prius! Just picked hers up and discovered it burns a quart every 2000 miles. I’m probably going to try the Berrymans or BG EPR depending on your findings! Love all of the wholesome shots throughout your vids. Honestly made my day in an otherwise boring day at work.
At the 15:20 mark…where is the oil dripping down from the top coming from? Is it leftover from getting past the rings? Or seeping down from the top side somewhere?
I think it's leftover from the rings. The top-end has been pretty well sealed. New valve-stem oil seals and valve-cover/spark plug gaskets.
i have a 2001 crolla that burnt oil, i ran a quart of atf through the engine and drove it super hard (im talking evey other shift a limiter shift) came back and drained the oil it was super dark, then added new oil + filter with a lil liquimoly so far 3k miles and not a single drop of oil lost
Thanks for the input!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY ya no problem i love your series i know the only real way to stop the consumption is to rebuild the engine but part of me wants you to keep making these videos because they are so entertaining/informative
Been using used ATF before oil changes on Friends and Family vehicles since the 90's; a practice my uncle had been doing for many years before that. What's cheaper than used ATF, right? Works great in my experience.
What do think about 30% vinegar ? Also today I was cleaning carbon w wd40 maybe that will be a cool 1
I have a 2003 camry with a 2azfe. I replaced the valve seals and it completely solved my oil burning problem. I know their are additives that claim to restore gaskets and oil leaks, maybe that would help
It'd be interesting to see how the Yamalube in the oil will work. It's probably going to be a time consuming affair.
I'm trying Auto-Rx in my 2012 Scion Xb right now. I m going to do a second application after 4000 miles.
Why are you putting it in the oil when it doesn't say too, asking for a friend?
@@charliegibb3908 You are supposed to put Auto-Rx into the crankcase. It is not for mixing in with fuel. Maybe you're confusing it for some other product??
Yamalube does not go in the crankcase.
I'd like to see the Berrymans process but use straight lacquer thinner instead.
I was actually thinking about that very same thing today when I was driving around. 🤔
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Scotty Kilmer dumps a gallon of lacquer thinner into 10 gallons of gasoline, drives 150 miles to clean stuff up.
Can’t wait for the next video