!Perform at your own risk! Previous video in this series: ruclips.net/video/84MylatwpN8/видео.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
I would try a can of engine restore as I said in a previous video added to your oil see if it helps can’t hurt I’ve had great results using it curious to see results of engine restore if you add it and drive it how far you can go if the oil consumption goes down gets better or what 😊
@@robbieturnbull4253 Thanks for the suggestions, Robbie. A lot of people would like me to try Restore, but I want to hold off on something like that, because I believe it works by coating the cylinders to better seal the rings, rather than actually unsticking the rings. I'd like to see if there's anything that can actually unstick the rings and get the engine working like intended ... but I'll definitely keep this in mind!
190k mile VW 2.0T which was burning a quart every 250 miles. Borescoped the cylinders and walls had little wear, diagnosed as carboned up oil control rings. Followed your procedure with one exception - I pulled the fuel pump relay and just ran starter for a few seconds between treatments. Car has gone 2,000 miles and consumed little to no oil, which is pretty remarkable given the mileage. I'm sure it will eventually degrade over more miles, but even if I have to do the treatment every 5-6k miles it's more than worth the time and cost of the procedure. THANK YOU for posting your videos on the subject, and GO NAVY.
Good idea! Red-lining for 20 mins with your oil diluted with a full can of B12 just ain't smart. Once its done its job seeping through the rings and loosening up the carbon in the oil control rings, all its going to do next is lower your oil viscosity at the absolutely worst time, when you're close to red-line for 20 mins......
yes but you still better soive the root problem unless to are willing to turn the card into trash or pay a higher price later with more components damaged, this seems like a valve was not closing well due to carbon and after removing the carbon, the damage will increase due to the pressure leaking by a minute gap which will get bigger and bigger, still considering the year of the car and the cost of the repair, it bay be worth just taking a temporary fix unless you yourself learn to fix the engine and thus reduce the hand work cost of the job
As of Feb ‘24, Valvoline is advertising a piston cleaning oil but it does say full effect is realized after 6 changes. So that may be another method to help sticking rings before they removed the oil holding crosshatch in the cylinder walls.
What does Valvoline consider a change interval. If it is 10k miles, like most manufacturers now recommend, or even 5000 or 3000, six changes is quite is while. Certainly there is a market for such oil since the predominance of new engines are GDI and would benefit from a good synthetic oil.
I'm not quite as dedicated as you are to the upkeep of my 2 KIAs (2012 Sorento and 2023 Sportage). I just follow the Severe Schedule as closely as I can. You've got my respect, sir!
I believe a possible reason for this result is that your previous treatment unstuck one or two of the rings(indicated by how a couple cylinders still had oil buildup and the others did not during the bore scope in the previous video), and this latest treatment did not unstick any of the remaining stuck rings, leaving the consumption roughly the same. I would scope the cylinders again and look for oil buildup and compare that to the previous videos bore scope. If the cylinders that the oil settles on vs the ones that did not are the same, I think my theory above is likely. In this case, treating the problem cylinders till(or if?) the rings unstick may be the answer. If these rings never get unstuck, it could just be that they are shot, although the relatively great looking condition of your bores makes me think this is unlikely. The more I do research on this subject the more im convinced that the problem does not go away gradually, the results come when ring(s) finally unstick to the point were it can seal off the cylinder wall. The results Ive observed personally on my car and in countless threads/videos is some treatment improves the conditions eithr completely or partially to a significant degree, and then does not improve an inch. So in the case of the partial sudden improvement it must be 1-3 but not all of the rings getting unstuck. This is a great series of videos and IMO important as oil burning due to clogged rings affects nearly every 4cylinder engine made in the last 20 years to varying degrees for the same fundamental reasons. Yet the treatment for it is never documented in a consistent way, just spread across thousands of videos and online posts were users have anecdotes for single types of treatments with wildly varying effect. Good work and persistence, I look forward to all of these videos.
Great series! What are your thoughts on using a small amount of air to agitate the B12 after filling the cylinder. Perhaps a small hose like oxygen hose and compressed air bubbling B12.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY These are great videos Dave!!! You've had a very logical approach throughout your process! I think from the oil on the pistons right after treatment and I would surmise at any point it's checked, that your cylinder walls are scored. No amount of 'decarbonization' is going to change that. Stuck or unstuck, oil is going to get past the rings if the walls are scored, and that can't do anything but progress. The longer it goes on, the more the rebuild costs: Deeper scoring effecting the crank and other components. AND THAT'S AN IMPROTANT PART OF THIS DISCOVERY PROCESS!!! I thank you for teaching us, not just the capabilities of these treatments but their limitations as well. It's always important to know where the "Point of Diminishing Return" is. Well done!
@@crforfreedom7407 I wonder if engine restore could repair scoring, at least temporarily? Project Farm did a video and a long-term update on it, that was very successful.
I dump 1 can both fuel tanks about 2xs a year went to valvolne high mileage 1/2 synthetic. The only noticeable difference i have seen is a slight increase in acceleration for a couple weeks but I carry 65 gallons of gas . I think I would be more interested in this kind of video if gas mileage or compression was included. I would think that you're time involved in this process if you figured out your wages could probably buy a replacement motor that would surely out last the car. Tripping over a dollar to pick a dime is rampant on U BOOB , I am a very steady OEM guy if I purchased something from an aftermarket establishment like napa auto zone or the like I may save 20 0r 50 dollars and with that savings I also will have the opportunity to learn and know how to do it again in 2 or three years. I think I will pay more for OEM and the piece of mind I have knowing that they spent millions on R-d is worth it.
My guess for the miss fire is since the motor is variable valve timing the chemtool has significantly dropped the oils viscosity. The drop in viscosity is messing with the oil pressure needed for the VVT to alter timing properly resulting in misfires.
This fixed my oil burn on my 2014 accord was burning 2 qts per oil change and on top of that I cleaned the intake valves and now I dont use any oil at all.
Just bought my daughter a 2005 Camry 4cyl. I was devastated to find that her car burns a quart every 500 miles. The car runs terrific and didn’t smoke so I assumed even with 200k on the clock that it would be a solid first car for her. I keep our cars in impeccable condition and even when they’re old they don’t burn any oil. Watching these videos gives me hope. I’ve read success stories of people getting the consumption down to a quart every 3,000 miles and if I can accomplish this I’ll be really really happy. I’m going to give this a shot.
My scion xb 08 i replaced my engine 56 thousands miles.. i see 300 miles will waste 1 quart oil. With original engine was every 1500 miles... i am planning to due that engine soak see if help my engine....
@@blessed7fold not yet, I am going to try and run some engine cleaners through the old oil before changing the oil a few times and see if that helps. I have heard of that working as well. I am going to try that before the piston soak.
@@jpete3027666I had a 99 4Runner a few years ago and when I got it it had quite a bit of carbon and I did it oil change every thousand miles with a half a can of sea foam in the oil every time in a completely cleaned it I did about 8 or 10 oil changes the first 10000 miles I had it, just use the cheapest synthetic you can find
1/ I think your oil consumption did not get worse, but just remained the same. The likely reason is that the first round of B12 freed the piston rings and the second round couldn’t do anything else, so basically diminishing returns 2/ the remaining oil consumption may be due to the cylinder walls being damaged and letting oil through. Scope the cylinder walls to check the condition and look to see which spark plugs have black tips, indicates carbon buildup from oil burning 3/ I recommend you use high mileage oil. I know you like that Costco brand because it’s very cheap but I would test to see how much oil burns with high mileage 5w30 because it’s said to have seal additives that may help
High mileage engine oil just has added detergents and seal conditioners that work by softening the rubbers and they swell up which helps stop leaks from your engine seals. Oil burning can’t be stopped with high mileage oil by itself, especially after cleaning your engine with something like b-12. Most likely cause now is normal wear and tear from all the miles. A different weight of oil may further reduce the oil consumption though.
@@charlesmedrano5031run 10w40 instead of 5w30 will prolong the life. You're just shining a turd either way though and a rebuild will be necessary eventually.
It's (potentially) worth running a thicker oil. For example, 10w40 instead of 5w30. The "risk" of actual damage starts to increase the further you push this (potential oil pump failure, or simply not enough oil circulating), I'm about to put 15w50 in my (5w30) engine, but I WON'T go to the extreme a friend of mine did and run 50w70 - he claims it's working ok for him (milking the last out of a dying engine) but my slightly more modern engine has smaller / thinner internal oil passages than his old clunker.
Thanks for these videos. Very informative. Just pulled the cylinder head from my wife’s 2004 Saturn Ion. Bent valves from broken timing chain guides, creating slop in the chain. Replaced the valves and guides, timing chain kit and head gasket. Now have it all back together. Doing the Berryman’s treatment on it now, as it has always smoked a little upon acceleration. Thought the new guides would fix it, but it didn’t. Good job on these videos. I appreciate how thorough you are with these tests. I am anxious to see if you get it figured out.
The only thing I would have done different is I would take each cylinder on its compression stroke about halfway up the boar & I would pour chemical in the cylinder, then put the spark plug in the hole and rotate by hand until hydro locked and hold pressure for a minute while you force the chemical down into the rings while trying to compress the liquid & remaining air. This will force the B12 or whatever you use into the ring lands and oil control rings.
Love BM Chemtool Use in the gas every few thousand miles. Bought an f150 with a tick at idle . Put two bottles in the crankcase. Ran half hour and changed oil . No more tick or any noise. 😊
I’d be putting some smaller amounts of the treatment in the cylinders but using more regular rotations of the crank to try break up deposits. Maybe once per hour, with a small top up of the berrymans. I think the increase in mechanical movement of the pistons and rings would improve the effectiveness of the treatment. There’s a reason most engine/fuel treatments specify dilution in a certain amount of oil or fuel; it’s to allow the chemicals to have time to work incrementally in conjunction with the engines heating, cooling and running cycles.
I totally feel you. As a BMW inline 6 driver I’m facing similar problems. If you are 110% shure the valve stem seals are ok after changing them, oil on top of the piston could definitely be from the crankcase. I‘d definitely suggest installing some kind of catch can, even an empty glass marmelade with two holes in the lid can be used. It’s just important to understand what’s going on.
One thing you can also try, is to get a lisle valve holder tool. Its the same type of hose for a compression kit, but you hook it up to compressed air like a leak down tester to hold your valves up if doing valve seals and not using the rope trick. When pairing that with a piston soak, supposedly helps push the splvent down the pistons instead of letting the solvent trickle down normally and helps agitate the carbon buildup to break free a little easier and makes piston soaks a bit faster. You can soak them initially for about 30 minutes and check to see if theyve drained through completely or not and depending on the results, adding more to the cylinder and then shooting air into the cylinder with the valve holder, or leak down tester to push it through.
I had great results with an engine flush additive . i was a 4cyl motorcycle and the cylinder pressure was way down. below the service limit. after the engine flush ran though the engine for 20mins.( then new oil n filter) the psi was up by 50psi. so it had sticking rings and the flush cleaned the crap out.
28:38 Youknow…. Just had a thought, you should try High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner product! If it’s rings, that stuff will do WONDERS! Group V base stock oil in Straight 30 or 40 grade with Alkylnated Naphthelenes and well I don’t know exactly the blend but it can be added to oil as-is! If it drops, as it has, add that as it is designed to also act as motor oil….
This stuff worked great on my ford 8n and my Allison Chambers both run great and stopped smoking Thanks so much for the video. Was ready to rebuild the motor and gave it a shot
Followed the same procedure on a 2006 Miata that is burning 1 quart every 1000 miles. Used two bottles of Berryman's over a 24 hour period. The oil got seriously diluted with 32 oz of Berryman's treatment and the engine was missing and flashing over 2000 rpm. Ran the engine for about 10 mins in the garage, changed the oil and engine went back to normal. Be extra careful with this additive.
Applied this process to my 2000 Celica with a severe oil burning, a quart in less than 100 miles. The results were very similar, after the treatment and the initial 30 miles drive, Hardly any oil was used. Working on the 300 mile drive now. Did get a code P0320 and pulled the second plug which was fouled with oil. Once completing the 300 mile drive, I will probably do a secind treatment as I think cylinger 2 rings are still somewhat stuck. Keep up the great videos.
@@tlaicontact Was burning a quart every 100 miles. Hardly burned any oil in first 300 miles. Did second treatment and now using about half quart in 400 miles or a full tank of gas.
Bummer, I was optimistic coming into this video, but love the perseverance. I've also been told to look into the BG 109 EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) as it's supposedly more potent than Seafoam and Berrymans.
18:26, engines tend to get rid of overfilled oil. and some of the ingredients of the additive are volatile, especially xylene, and will evaporate away at temperatures below what a car runs at so you may not have lost any oil really.
I’ve been using Lucas complete engine treatment and Pennzoil high mileage oil with good results in my 2009 Camry with 102,000 miles on it. The car has the oil burning 4 cylinder engine in it that I went back to the dealer twice about and they said it was normal to burn a quart of oiI in 600 miles. I add the recommended amount to the crankcase and now burn a quart in 3000 miles.😊
I’m doing this on my 2nd Gen Scion Xb but I’m using at least 4 21ounce cans of Berrymans, and I’m going for one week of soak time, turning the engine once or twice a day. I’ll follow up the soak with fogging the cylinders, followed by changing the oil and filter.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY No problem! Had a thought.. Would you like me to buy a quart for you and send it, run it to see if it decreases consumption? I still think your rings are coked up and the HPL EC will save your having to take the pistons out and drill the oil holes to unblock them like it is a Honda. It liquefied sludge, much like any Group V motor oil would eventually do but that stuff I’m telling you about, it is like magic. And it is safe for mix into motor oil!
My understanding is that the “5” in the number is the “W”, or cold, viscosity, and the “30” or “40” is the hot, or upper sting temp, viscosity. Meaning 5W40 acts as a thinner oil when cold and a thicker oil when hot. Trying 5W40 too help with compression and sealing could work.
I tried this and rotated the engine about once an hour. I noticed that the b-12 would leak past the rings in about an hour or 2. I'm going to try it again with a 50/50 mixture of b-12 and marvel mystery oil. I'm hoping the mixture will slow the leaking past the rings down and allow the mixture to soak longer on the rings and pistons. B-12 evaporates very fast,, the mixture should slow that down some.
@@neel1173 went from about 600 miles a quart to a 1000 miles a quart. Almost due for an oil change, this time Im going to try 50/50 gumout and marvel mystery oil. I saw a video and gumout seemed to do a little better job cleaning carbon than b-12
Great video! I do believe you are making progress. I do believe the oil will vaporize and lose viscosity over a period of time. Might be the "type of oil" or thickness. I'm thinking of doing a second treatment as well.
Have you checked out the videos about the problem with catch cans? I was starting think about getting one. After seeing how the catch can can create a pressurized block and blow out seals I've re-thought my plans.
Cleaning the PCV is super easy and fast may help relieve crank case pressure which could be attributing to burning oil from excessive pressure in the system, I think it’s safe to say the B12 has done all it can do for your Toyota hopefully we can help come up with more solutions on the comments ☝🏽 Lubeguard has a nice engine flush kit that comes with a treatment after the flush, that stays with the new oil. Between the flush I had used a cheap filter and cheap oil and idled the car for 15, just to remove the chemicals that would have stayed over with Chen flush. Got the tip from a video on RUclips!
Hi Dave! I've been following your videos for a while because I have the oil bruning problem in my Lexus RX300. After a lot of brain burnings and additive testings, I decide to overhaul the engine including valve jobs, new valve seals, new head gasket, new pistond rings, new rod and crank shaft bearings ...etc, etc. The good news is that the average gas milege improved from 17 to 19 mpg and engine runs like new. The bad news is that the oil still burning as badly as before. Some lessons I have learned so far are: 1. the oil burning rate for a given engine is actually proportional to the blow-by and the blow-by is proportional to the cylinder wall worn. 2 There is no easy additive remedy to free seized oil rings. In my case, all six oil rings are seized and the only thing can free them is a small screw driver. 3 against most people's intuition, the major oil burning route is actually through the PCV valve to the intake manifold chamber and driven by the blow-by, not due to the seized oil rings failed to scrach the oil on the cylingder wall.
Thanks for all the info. That's a bummer the oil continued to burn. I know some Corolla owners said re-ringing and replacing pistons eliminated their oil burning.
High boost turbo cars have a catch can because of really high blow by. My boosted (30lbs) had a vented catch can that I piped back into the crank case so it would drain back. Just a thought.
I know this is a few years old. Gonna try this for my wife passat next oil change. Thanks for your time man. On a side note, my 94 Corolla had these issues. Also, I didn't think much of it because it was my 600 dollar commuter car. I ended up feeding it Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel. And it stopped using oil 😅
The reason you use less oil directly after an oil change is because then the oil is not yet diluted with gasoline. Gasoline makes the oil thinner. Once you drive a while and gasoline leaks down the rings, oil gets thinner and oil usage goes up. Still the results are great! By the way, you can proof fairly simply you have gasoline in your oil by dripping some old oil on a piece of (coffee) filter paper. The gasoline then separates from the oil. Alternatively you buy one of those fancy tests or if it's really bad, you can smell the gasoline inside the oil.
I've done the gasoline oil separation test for decades and smelling the dipstick people wondering what the hell I was doing clear back in the seventies
The miss was most likely fouled plugs from the excess chemicals as well as high voc xylene vapours coming through your crank case-PCV which would cause it to run rich. Also the boiling off of those vapours along with oil that vaporises easier while diluted would decrease the volume for the 20 minute + drive to work 19:08
This is great! Some suggestions for the next time you do this: - Position the car so the pistons are level to save B12 - Put 4 oz in a combustion chamber, use your scope to check if the whole piston is covered - Instead of rotating the engine around move the crank back and forth so the pistons move only about 5-10 mm up and down - Before you start the engine, if the stuff didn't drain down, remove it with vacuum pump or a turkey baster
Even though your engine shows full operating temperature, the oil takes a good while longer to reach full operating temperature. Your temp gauge is reading coolant temperature. Generally, you need to drive it for roughly 5 - 10 min after coolant reaches full temperature to get the oil temperature up to full temperature.
I can’t remember if you’ve done this or not but a compression test and a leak down test for each cylinder is certainly in order. I’d be interested to see if a high mileage oil would help. One thing I’m concerned about is running the engine with fluid levels higher than the full marks. When you fill the oil too much you can have issues with the crankshaft contacting the oil and causing it to foam up. When that happens, the oil pickup can’t do its job and you’ll starve the engine of lubricant. It’s possible that the solvents will prevent the foaming as well which would be good in this instance.
Once the engine is at operating temp those lighter chemicals in the b12 will flash off. I agree though not a good idea if the overfill is all oil, just not the case in this scenario.
Someone on RUclips did an oil over fill test to see how far you had to over fill before bad things began to happen to the engine. I was actually shocked by how much oil they added before there was a problem.
My theory with the missing is that the Berrymans is evaporating out of the oil and entering the intake via the pcv valve and making the AF ratio rich. Also explains oil volume reducing. Just a guess… thanks for documenting this for us.
I've used B12 for 20 years. Pour in the oil a day before oil change, pour in gas to clean injectors, the reason stores run out, is dirty thieves and no manual ordering. My local Walmart has only had one can of QD electronic cleaner for months, and someone dropped it and broke the nozzle off
The best way to see good results from the berryman is to have the engine running and while giving it throttle from the throttle body dump a quick splash right into the throttle body and run the whole bottle right through the intake. That hot intake and combustion vaporizes the berryman and soaks the walls and intake runners and stuff just like the water vapor trick. I just did a berryman treatment on my 2002 dodge durango and 2006 jeep commander and added a can to the fuel tank. Derek from vice grip garage has shown many times how berryman takes a smoking old engine thats been sitting for a long time and frees up stuck rings and stops smoking on those old stuck engines.
Enjoyed the video Dave, have a couple of suggestions. 1: Get some fresh spark plugs in for a plug reading after you deem it necessary to add oil. Looking at the bore scope it seemed cyl #2 may be the offender. The plug reading may confirm this and allow you to focus more on the problematic cylinder. 2: I believe the addition of the berrymans to a warm cylinder may have a more dramatic effect. Go drive the vehicle and build some good heat (not idling), remove the spark plug and add your dosage. If you can narrow it down to a cylinder might consider replacing that spark plug again for additional plug readings.
Haha forgot I have a third recommendation, PCV inspection. Blowby gasses can pressurize the crankcase causing issues like leaking seals and oil consumption. Not familiar with this vehicles PCV system but inspect the valve or fixed orifice for flow restrictions. Possible theres a hose out of position thats slightly kinked impeding pcv airflow causing the consumption.
I simply used gasoline down the spark plug holes to soak the rings. The cylinders were allowed to dry out before adding the next treatment, and this was carried out over a 24hr period. After this treatemnt, my Pontiac vibe with a 2.4L went from 600/700 miles to a quart of oil consumption to over 1000 miles. A 50% decrease. So as far as I am concerned, gas works just fine.
Hi I have a Toyota echo 1.3 my car is burning oil so I have changed the Pcv valve and a notice oil into the hose from the pcv to collector and I find that valve cover if your turn over there is a metal plate I took off the plate and it was full of burnt oil....and now it is much better I didn't try your method yet ...here some videos about what I did Minute 57 ruclips.net/video/VMWL-DbD1Uw/видео.htmlsi=fsXd0EJetYXWWy4y And ruclips.net/user/shorts_ICm-_iEkdo?si=6Zc3NJYvuB-fry3w
Your misfire with B12 in the crankcase is probably due to the crank case breather in your intake. The B12 is 'gassing off' , it's turning into vapor and being burned in the engine(it's a solvent). Acting like a richer mixture. Hence why it doesn't do it after you change your oil.
what I understand from "car care nut channel " 1ZZ engine is one of the worst in the Toyota lineup. I had a corolla, manual as yours, 1999 for 19 years, and I had the same problem. I solve the problem of valve stem seals by adding AT 205. I tried different stuff to cut oil consumption but in vain. Finally, I get rid of it this year.
As a lot of others have said, ruling out the PVC would be a good idea, including adding a catch can. The oil laying on top of the cylinders is concerning. It’s likely being forced there under pressure (PVC?). The other strategy might be to just put some type of additive, as you have been doing, and drive it for awhile. Give it some time, who knows the rings might not be seating well after all of the solvent you have subjected them to. Maybe they will reseat.
you should re install the plugs while soaking the cylinders to slow the drainage past the rings and evaporation. I would also plug the PCV vacuum line and let it vent during the drive this could be the misfire problem, also add some dextron ATF to each cylinder and cycle the engine with the plugs out before running for lubrication. I would like to see you add a catch can that will tell you if it's gummed up oil rings or low tension compression rings causing it to consume oil, it will also help eliminate future carbon buildup.
This absolutely worked for my 2.5 l equinox, 1 litre a week to 1 litre a month and much better gas milage, I used seafoam but berrymans is even better I heard.,, Thankyou !!!!
...in his last post he finally found the successful method to stop the oil burning - the engine was saving so much oil it was too much oil saved, it was over-flowing the dipstick, OP had set up a road-side stall to sell the surplus engine oil.
Also, one thing that's important about your high rpm drive isn't just Rpms, but also engine load. Having the engine working harder (like if you were towing in a truck or something) can increase cylinder pressure and temperature more than just high rpms. I recommend trying that. Find a long grade and go rip up it a time or 20 and see if it helps.
Hi Dave---new subscriber because I'm really interested in this. I have an '06 Ford 5.4 3v Triton known for the spark plugs breaking off in the engine. Which 7 of 8 did when I changed that original set. Using the Lisle tool was able to remove all but 2. Took to a shop where they did whatever they had to...ever since then the engine has burned oil. My dad was no mechanic but he took care of our vehicles and tractors and such. I remember his method of changing oil (because I helped many a time.) He would get the engine hot and put the vehicle on the rack and pull the plug and filter...let it drain pretty good. Then he would take put on a cheap filter, put in cheap, thin oil minus 1 quart and finish it off with 1 quart of diesel. He'd let it run for about 5 or 10 minutes. Shut it off and pull the filter and plug and let it drain a long time---even overnight sometimes. We never had a problem with oil usage and it almost looked as clean at 5000 miles as when we put it in there. For what it's worth I do remember seeing B12 Chemtool cans in the shop but not sure what he used that for. Will be watching to see how this turns out for you. Your tenacity is AMAZING!!!! Jesus bless.
If I recall correctly these engines actually not too prone to burn oil compared to the later 2008-2015 years in different models, those are notorious to burn oil. I saw some crosshatch on some if your earlier videos, so I'd actually just pull the pistons, install a new set of rings, hone the cylinder walls and throw everything together and see what happens.
If you pull the pistons to give a quick hone and rings. Take some of the old rings. Snap them into pieces. Put them in a set of vice grips and clean the carbon out of ring grooves. Not ideal. But quick and cheap. Putting in new rings without cleaning the carbon in ring grooves is kinda waste of time.
You may want to consider as soon as you shut off the vehicle after driving it hard pull the plugs and see if you can hear or see oil dripping from the valve seals. I’ve experienced this before on an Integra with bad valve stem seals. Could hear the drip sizzle and smoke after pulling the plug.
My suggestion is more high rpm driving. I like the idea of marvel in both the oil and the fuel and do a long high rpm highway drive. I also recommend an oil with higher detergents, like amsoil or penzoil ultra platinum but they are pricey, so I'll leave it up to you. Love the series
Yes, by all means add a catch can. Then you can see how much oil you are using due to blowby. Second, check your pcv valve to make sure it releases at the right pressure.
I've been watching your videos on this oil burning journey and it looks like you finally found something that helps. Congrats! In regards to your destination in the video, I found the Georgia Aquarium to be quite good and IMHO it's better than Monterey. But if you want something quite different, take a visit to the Tennessee Aquarium. It's darn impressive and focuses mostly on freshwater stuff. Despite the focus on freshwater, I'd consider the Tennessee Aquarium to be the best aquarium experience I've had so far. I've been to Monterey, Georgia, Ripleys, Tennessee, and the Sea World aquariums.
The barrymens mix you have in that engine is making it too thin and overfilled. I think that's what's causing the slip. You change oil and put the recommended oil viscosity in and no slip.
There product like restore I did reserch those additive like decades. There Engine restore have two weakness 1 only last 3000 mile and 2 can't use on vvti engine. There Engine restore like additive last 60000 mile but I not experienced with it . At commercial said it and can Use on vvti engine . According to they said it can restore compression and fill cyclinder wall and reseat ring . But not helping stacked ring. It Xado additive sell on Amazon.
I would change oil brands. I have a Subaru car and it's important to put the dipstick in a certain way on it. It has a oil can on the handle, so not suppose to put in with the little oil can upside down , but it probably don't matter on your car
For this model engine, that has significant challenges with the rings, I'd suggest you put in a pint of "Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment" at every oil change.
The ignition miss is probably either an ignition coil on its way out,or a fuel injector on its way out. You would need to capture or view live data from a scan tool to determine which cylinder is the culprit, so that you can swap/test parts. with other cylinders. If you can figure out which cylinder is the one with the miss, best way to determine if it's coil or injector is move the coil to one cylinder, and the injector to the other. If the miss then follows the part to one of those two cylinders, then that's the cause. If the problem stays in the cylinder, then you know you have a mechanical issue (valve or head gasket leak) specific to that one.
good video,i have a 94 civic Honda BOUGHT IT NEW, when it got to 500,000 miles it overheated, i loosened the radiator cap and drove back and forth to work 110 miles a day,it burned 1 quart per week.i took a few days off and decided to pull the head and do the gasket,at the same time i had on hand a set of STOCK piston rings so i pulled the pistons,checked the rod bearings with plasitigage .002 still good.as i removed the oil control rings a big surprise every single oil drain hole on EVERY piston was plugged.A .062 drill bit by hand and i cleared all the holes and put the new set of std rings on.now two years later and 2 oil changes and it's only burned 1/2 quart every 3000 miles,i retired 2 weeks after that overheat so now i drive 1/10 as much.But i would say check valve stem seals,PCV,then piston rings AND OIL CONTROL HOLES.hope that helps.
I'm just chiming in here, as its very important for anyone reading this thread to understand that the oil rings are first part of problem, the truly hard part of the problem is the piston holes. How to unclog them is the real crux of the issue here. If you dont unplug those holes form the hard carbon in them, you will never get the oil usage back to normal levels. I suspect the berrymans is doing a good job to clear the rings of carbon, but the holes will still be clogged, I've suggested a method in this thread how to clear those holes using the berrymans, but its an untested idea. It involved overfilling the engine so that the oil level is just below the top of piston at bottom of its stroke, then turning the engine over at low rpm so that the underside of the head where the oil holes exit slaps into the oil at significant pressure, forcing the berrymans into those holes, would likely require turning engine for a day or two via starter motor ( plugs taken out of course), could the starter motor handle that long a period running? ( would need power supply to run the starter motor directly) I think its got a chance of working
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've thought the same thing, I think it would be really difficult to do, dropping the pan alone wouldn't give you access, there is extra section at bottom would need remove, to get to the crankshaft area, I cant really say if you would be able to get to the holes or not, I'm guessing would be a bit nightmarish job, if enough room at all to get in there, my dremel tool has long flexible hose can put drill onto it, something like that would help. Dont take my negativity as saying its not possible, I dont know.
this video ( although quite dark) does show toyota bulletin about the piston oil return holes at 3:20 mark ruclips.net/video/17rcHhFhFE4/видео.html also I looked up teardown videos of this engine, removing sump you would get access to pistons but I really doubt enough room to do anything regarding the piston holes
If you are trying to stop the oil burning, have you changed out the pcv valve? Clean out the egr valve if it has one and clean the IAC valve. Suggestion u can get an oil catch can off Amazon and it will give u a volume to how much actual blowby u have as opposed to guessing what is blowby vs consumption my man 💪
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Do those engines even have an EGR Radiator or EGR Valve? If so, then first I'd consider if being like the Prius 2ZR-FXE, clean the intake manifold holes that clog up pretty bad and what "Gasket Masters" YT channel notes is that causes a vacuum due to when the intake air not being from the intake switches to the EGR circuit gases as air intake. Without the EGR intake circuit flowing enough air, the vacuum pulls oil through the PCV Valve circuit since the air intake valve isn't opened enough and into the intake and over time gums up the oil seal rings since the oil come in through the air intake circuit. Oil catch cans and repositioning of the PCV Valve (at least with the 2ZR since not up by the head as typical and down by the oil pan on the crankcase) up beside the head and maybe also having vertical reads like helps before routing the hose/pipe to the oil catch can and back into the intake circuit. I have not idea about your engine. Will have to read into when I get the time.
@@jafinch78 You made me go out and pop the hood to check. 😅I never noticed whether it had an EGR or not. .... It doesn't ... just pcv. ... Good info though!
I’d like to see the catch can added to see how much oil is coming from the pcv system. For all we know the ring problem could be solved (doubtful) and it’s just an excessive amount of blow by. It would also be helpful to deduct the amount oil caught by the catch can from the overall amount burned. It may turn this one large problem into multiple small problems that add up overtime. Either way it’s nice to have the evidence from the catch can to confirm your ring fix or unfortunately dispel your efforts! Might I also suggest EPR engine flush by BG followed up with a can of MOA in the fresh oil after. I’ve used it on multiple ls engines with stuck rings with good results.
I did it for my 2013 Avalon hybrid. She was eating 1qt oil every 300 miles. I used 100ml B12 for one cylinder, after 24 hours, I use a long air gun blow out the B12, drive 20 minutes, changed oil, then changed all the spark plugs. This car only drive in city, it was getting 21MPG.
I would love to see what an oil catch can would do, and how you would introduce. Also, have you tried going to a thicker oil to see if that would help? I appreciate your content, and I'm having similar issues with my 2 Kia Rio's.
A little trick I've learned, with the oil hard to see on the dip stick. Go over the end of the dip stick with some fine sandpaper. It dulls the finish and you can really see the oil level so much better. I actually glass beaded mine at work in which does the same thing.
They are called snake oils for a reason. I suggest running Castrol high mileage oil that comes in the green jug. It used to say "with superior burn off protection" right on the front but at some point they moved or removed it all together. Still seems to be the same oil and has performed great for all my +200k mile engines.
Additional fuel or berrymans in crankcase is being evaporated thru the pcv and causing a real high air fuel ratio because it's being burned in the cylinder thru the pcv system
It has what's called an "extended crank" because every time you (unnecessarily) disconnect the battery for your experiments, you're clearing the Drive Cycle memory, and it must do a relearn- one PID being a Cam/Crank correlation value. I notice the SES/CEL light was on during your earlier drives; MPG, HP are going to be drastically affected until the new map is learned, and any DTC are remedied and cleared, with the SES/CEL off. Has anyone told you this before? Do you have a Scan Tool?
Once again, infinite thanks for the update!! I did the treatment couple of weeks back to my VW GTI 2007 120kmiles. [Update (2/16/2023): Oil consumption before: 1qtr in ~400miles. After: 1qtr every 500miles. The car certainly drives much better (was unable to accelerate without smoking everyone and now it's mostly ok) but still not good. I got similar theory to yours... Berryman's unstacked couple of cylinders but the original one (which is the one who started my ordeal) still stuck] Quick highlights in case they help: 1. Checked with the scope how much Berryman's was left after each 6hrs treatment. After 1st treatment nothing was left so thought that just "topping it off" wouldn't do it for the treatments afterwards, as that "small" amount may just sit at the bottom evaporating and don't reach the border of the piston (?). Instead, spread the amount in the cans over each treatment. 2. Used about the same amount as you (1.5-2 cans), i.e., ~800ml. 3. I pour a bit of Berryman's in a glass container and waited 6 hrs to see how much would evaporate. I guess it depends on the ratio of surface to volume (?) but it did go maybe 5-10% down but not more than that, so the loss I had in my car was probably down through the walls. Regardless, I partially placed the spark plugs back in after each treatment (took them out before rotating the engine). 4. The last treatment I did it with a syringe connected to a small plastic hose, and squirting the Berryman's in the cylinder. Hope would be to splash all the walls inside specially if my motor was not sitting flat. A thought would be to put the cylinder on the highest position with valves closed and have a gig that fits the spark plug opening, with the hose inside, to somehow pressure inject the Berryman's in there. Yeah... Maybe too fancy. Just saying... 5. In that sense, not sure why the engine has to be dead center when you add the liquid. I guess it could be in any position, isn't it? As long as you rotate it few times later... 6. Interestingly, as I said, after the first treatment Berryman's was gone from all cylinders. But after the 2nd, cylinder #1 had always something left. By the last treatment, cylinders #1 and #2 had some left. Maybe if the engine is good, the Berryman's should stay in the cylinder. It would be nice to check with a "new" car. 7. Also not sure if this helps but turning the crank was always the same hard for me along the 4 treatments. Nevertheless, within a cycle, it was hard-soft-hard-soft every 90 degrees. With the hard when the cylinders were centered. 8. Took me 3 hard tries to get the car started (no surprise). Lots of smoke like you. Drove at 4500rpm in the highway 20 min either by 3rd gear/60 miles/hr or 4th gear/80miles/hr Note: Checked for compression (on cold) before the whole treatment. It was even about the cylinders about 180psi. Added a spoon of oil to one cylinder and somehow was lower 160-170psi. Weird... may have not done it properly but moved on.
As a last resort I’d try BG complete engine flush. It’s expensive but I’ve never seen a negative result on those Ive read about. Great series as I about to try this on a ‘13 crv with blowby and burning oil issues.
I work at a Honda dealership. We only recently started using the BG dynamic engine flush, but a couple coworkers from another dealership that used it longer both vouched for it. And every time I've seen it used, it cut oil consumption by 90+%.
@@SkylineFTW97 thank you. I replaced my pcv valve and did the piston soak over night adding 2 oz every 6 hours. Took about 10 crank cycles to get her started but that combo has 700 miles on it and I’m barely under the full mark. So it has helped. I’m thinking the pcv helped the most. I was only getting air blowing out the cover. After the swap the cap literally gets sucked from my finger tips. I was told that air actually goes in and out rapidly from the oil fill cap if it is venting properly and only put if it is not.
Speaking as a mechanic; you really need to do a compression test and see how far below recommend psi it is and have a look with the camera. No amount of carbon cleaning will help if there is a bad wear scar on the cylinder wall, Sorry...
I love your ingenuity and creative problem solving. I think I'm gonna slightly modify the process for my Audi Q7. They are notorious oil burners. The misfires;.....It could be that the fire-arm lube/protectant that you sprayed into the cylinders may have coated the spark plug at start up and that residue from the burn has left a coating on the electrode that is partially fouling the plug from a good clean full strength spark/firing. I would also be concerned about running the motor as hard or long as you did in the first experiment for any length of time with the Berryman's thinning the oil so significantly. That has to have significantly lowered the viscosity. Motor oil chemistry is a very finicky science. I would think I might want to drain it after risking only a brief period of idle only and then go to a high detergent oil of the proper weight thereafter. Can't be to careful with multi-thousand dollar motors.
I've done many similar experiments over several years in all kinds of environments. My observation: oil use is MUCH lower when it's cold than when it's hot... and much lower when the engine never gets particularly hot. So, short trips==less use; long trips==more. (More per 100 miles) I don't actually know of a good solution, other than replacing pistons and rings. That's what I'm preparing to do.
Stay-Bil makes a product in an aerosol can called fogging oil. It’s made to coat the cylinders and valves for storage. That would prevent dry starts which could score the cylinder walls making your problem worse.
Try Engine Restore! It works! Restores compression and can cut down on oil consumption. I would love to see the video on it. I’ve seen a lot of videos with restore and compression tests but not on oil consumption. They claim it to cut down oil consumption too.
Without going into a lot of detail, probably the drain-back holes in the pistons are still blocked. The first treatment with b-12 appears to have freed the rings up, but it's going to take considerably more to open those little holes in the pistons behind the rings. Your best hope, without disassembly, is going to be in working b-12 into those areas of the pistons and soaking as long as possible, before the high rpm drive. Having said that, it's very unlikely to work at this point, for a variety of reasons, with one of them being when you did the first high rpm drive it probably hard baked the carbon into those holes and they're not likely to soften again... 1qt per 1000mi is very common in the 2000s, so I wouldn't get too wound up over that. The next best way to improve oil consumption is to increase efficiency so it takes less throttle to accelerate. This is a long subject, but requires making sure you have no vacuum leaks(oil leaks can cause vacuum leaks on Fuel Injected cars even when there's no CEL), and taking care of all the details to get it in top running condition.
@@rodneyunderwood6236 What he did should have some level of success on any engine that has stuck rings. But, I would try running Engine Restorer in the oil before doing this. It's designed to do the same job with less risk...
My Silverado with 150K+ miles was using about a quart every 1000 miles. I used a Stiction Eliminator in it for about 500 miles before an oil change and the oil turned DARK immediately after adding it. The consumption has dropped to about a quart between oil changes which is about 6000 miles. I attribute this drop in use(my truck has the DOD feature) to desludging the oil control rings. My theory is that the DOD feature caused sludge build up in the oil control rings since they are low tension any more. Cleaning out the buildup in the rings I think obviously made a world of difference. I have started using this product on ALL my vehicles including my riding mowers and it seems to help.
I've used Chemtool B-12 for years. I pour a can in the gas tank every 3 or 4 fill ups. My 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5i Premium has oil changes every 5,000 to 6,000 miles and I've never had to add any oil.
!Perform at your own risk!
Previous video in this series: ruclips.net/video/84MylatwpN8/видео.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
Disappointing for sure. Did you mean to pin this?
Theres 1 more last thing u can try berrymans chemdip and it will fix to 100% ruclips.net/video/q98BSSuicJo/видео.html just pour it in the cylinders
I would try a can of engine restore as I said in a previous video added to your oil see if it helps can’t hurt I’ve had great results using it curious to see results of engine restore if you add it and drive it how far you can go if the oil consumption goes down gets better or what 😊
@@duffman6675 Doh! ...yes, thanks!
@@robbieturnbull4253 Thanks for the suggestions, Robbie. A lot of people would like me to try Restore, but I want to hold off on something like that, because I believe it works by coating the cylinders to better seal the rings, rather than actually unsticking the rings. I'd like to see if there's anything that can actually unstick the rings and get the engine working like intended ... but I'll definitely keep this in mind!
Thanks! Here is a months worth of money I saved from dumping oil in my 2010 a4.
Whoa!! Thank you so much!!!! 😯😂
This channel is causing a shortage of Berrymans
and oil filters
190k mile VW 2.0T which was burning a quart every 250 miles. Borescoped the cylinders and walls had little wear, diagnosed as carboned up oil control rings. Followed your procedure with one exception - I pulled the fuel pump relay and just ran starter for a few seconds between treatments. Car has gone 2,000 miles and consumed little to no oil, which is pretty remarkable given the mileage. I'm sure it will eventually degrade over more miles, but even if I have to do the treatment every 5-6k miles it's more than worth the time and cost of the procedure. THANK YOU for posting your videos on the subject, and GO NAVY.
Thanks for the testimony. Please keep us posted on the oil use!
Update?
Good idea!
Red-lining for 20 mins with your oil diluted with a full can of B12 just ain't smart.
Once its done its job seeping through the rings and loosening up the carbon in the oil control rings, all its going to do next is lower your oil viscosity at the absolutely worst time, when you're close to red-line for 20 mins......
I wonder if cranking with the starter would help loosen the rings better than turning by hand. Probably will go through more fluid though.
I’m burning through 1 qt about every 200 miles and tried seafoam but it didn’t seem to have done much. I might try this next
"As the Oil Burner Turns"
This soap opera drama has me on the edge of my seat.
Thanks for sharing!
Well from burning a quart every 300 miles to burning a quart every 1,000 miles...I'll take it as a win.
yes but you still better soive the root problem unless to are willing to turn the card into trash or pay a higher price later with more components damaged, this seems like a valve was not closing well due to carbon and after removing the carbon, the damage will increase due to the pressure leaking by a minute gap which will get bigger and bigger, still considering the year of the car and the cost of the repair, it bay be worth just taking a temporary fix unless you yourself learn to fix the engine and thus reduce the hand work cost of the job
As of Feb ‘24, Valvoline is advertising a piston cleaning oil but it does say full effect is realized after 6 changes. So that may be another method to help sticking rings before they removed the oil holding crosshatch in the cylinder walls.
What does Valvoline consider a change interval. If it is 10k miles, like most manufacturers now recommend, or even 5000 or 3000, six changes is quite is while. Certainly there is a market for such oil since the predominance of new engines are GDI and would benefit from a good synthetic oil.
Valvoline had to limit the cleaning power to prevent oil filter clogging!
I heard Rotella oil has a good cleaning effect too. I guess it's zinc additive is bad for your cat though, so maybe not😕
Plenty of time for the placebo effect to kick in over 6 oil changes
I did this to my 2009 Camry 2.4 (2AZ) and it worked. I only used about a quarter of a quart of oil in 4000 miles. Thanks Dave.
That is great to hear!
Did you follow his procedure because I’m low key scared to do it on my rav4 because a guy did it in youtube and his rings broke
@@dantheman982 damnit, please link the video i need to see
I'm not quite as dedicated as you are to the upkeep of my 2 KIAs (2012 Sorento and 2023 Sportage). I just follow the Severe Schedule as closely as I can. You've got my respect, sir!
I believe a possible reason for this result is that your previous treatment unstuck one or two of the rings(indicated by how a couple cylinders still had oil buildup and the others did not during the bore scope in the previous video), and this latest treatment did not unstick any of the remaining stuck rings, leaving the consumption roughly the same. I would scope the cylinders again and look for oil buildup and compare that to the previous videos bore scope. If the cylinders that the oil settles on vs the ones that did not are the same, I think my theory above is likely. In this case, treating the problem cylinders till(or if?) the rings unstick may be the answer. If these rings never get unstuck, it could just be that they are shot, although the relatively great looking condition of your bores makes me think this is unlikely.
The more I do research on this subject the more im convinced that the problem does not go away gradually, the results come when ring(s) finally unstick to the point were it can seal off the cylinder wall. The results Ive observed personally on my car and in countless threads/videos is some treatment improves the conditions eithr completely or partially to a significant degree, and then does not improve an inch. So in the case of the partial sudden improvement it must be 1-3 but not all of the rings getting unstuck.
This is a great series of videos and IMO important as oil burning due to clogged rings affects nearly every 4cylinder engine made in the last 20 years to varying degrees for the same fundamental reasons. Yet the treatment for it is never documented in a consistent way, just spread across thousands of videos and online posts were users have anecdotes for single types of treatments with wildly varying effect. Good work and persistence, I look forward to all of these videos.
Thank you for all of that. Your theory makes complete sense ... and is very encouraging! Much appreciated 😊
Great series! What are your thoughts on using a small amount of air to agitate the B12 after filling the cylinder. Perhaps a small hose like oxygen hose and compressed air bubbling B12.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY These are great videos Dave!!! You've had a very logical approach throughout your process!
I think from the oil on the pistons right after treatment and I would surmise at any point it's checked, that your cylinder walls are scored. No amount of 'decarbonization' is going to change that. Stuck or unstuck, oil is going to get past the rings if the walls are scored, and that can't do anything but progress. The longer it goes on, the more the rebuild costs: Deeper scoring effecting the crank and other components. AND THAT'S AN IMPROTANT PART OF THIS DISCOVERY PROCESS!!!
I thank you for teaching us, not just the capabilities of these treatments but their limitations as well. It's always important to know where the "Point of Diminishing Return" is. Well done!
@@crforfreedom7407 I wonder if engine restore could repair scoring, at least temporarily? Project Farm did a video and a long-term update on it, that was very successful.
I dump 1 can both fuel tanks about 2xs a year went to valvolne high mileage 1/2 synthetic. The only noticeable difference i have seen is a slight increase in acceleration for a couple weeks but I carry 65 gallons of gas . I think I would be more interested in this kind of video if gas mileage or compression was included. I would think that you're time involved in this process if you figured out your wages could probably buy a replacement motor that would surely out last the car. Tripping over a dollar to pick a dime is rampant on U BOOB , I am a very steady OEM guy if I purchased something from an aftermarket establishment like napa auto zone or the like I may save 20 0r 50 dollars and with that savings I also will have the opportunity to learn and know how to do it again in 2 or three years. I think I will pay more for OEM and the piece of mind I have knowing that they spent millions on R-d is worth it.
The oil level might have dropped after the 20 minute high RPM highway run because the B12 additive burned off.
and all the oil that flowed though the rings and burnt off when it was super thinned out
Pcv flow. It doesn't have to be from rings once all the light distillates evaporated off it dropped.
Was thinking the same thing.
My guess for the miss fire is since the motor is variable valve timing the chemtool has significantly dropped the oils viscosity. The drop in viscosity is messing with the oil pressure needed for the VVT to alter timing properly resulting in misfires.
Interesting theory.🤔
Miss fire. I believe her name is Sapphire Fire. At one time was married to Wang fire.
I dont think its a good idea to let the engine run with almost 1L - or quart or w/e its called in the us - of B12 in the crankcase.
VVT sets a code if the cam position doesn't match the ECU command, it seems very sensitive on the Hyundai and Peugeot I've had issues with
This fixed my oil burn on my 2014 accord was burning 2 qts per oil change and on top of that I cleaned the intake valves and now I dont use any oil at all.
Just bought my daughter a 2005 Camry 4cyl. I was devastated to find that her car burns a quart every 500 miles. The car runs terrific and didn’t smoke so I assumed even with 200k on the clock that it would be a solid first car for her. I keep our cars in impeccable condition and even when they’re old they don’t burn any oil. Watching these videos gives me hope. I’ve read success stories of people getting the consumption down to a quart every 3,000 miles and if I can accomplish this I’ll be really really happy. I’m going to give this a shot.
I have the exact same year and model of car. Have you tried to resolve the problem yet?
My scion xb 08 i replaced my engine 56 thousands miles.. i see 300 miles will waste 1 quart oil. With original engine was every 1500 miles... i am planning to due that engine soak see if help my engine....
@@blessed7fold not yet, I am going to try and run some engine cleaners through the old oil before changing the oil a few times and see if that helps. I have heard of that working as well. I am going to try that before the piston soak.
@@jpete3027666I had a 99 4Runner a few years ago and when I got it it had quite a bit of carbon and I did it oil change every thousand miles with a half a can of sea foam in the oil every time in a completely cleaned it I did about 8 or 10 oil changes the first 10000 miles I had it, just use the cheapest synthetic you can find
@@jpete3027666Make sure to replace her pcv valve too.
1/ I think your oil consumption did not get worse, but just remained the same. The likely reason is that the first round of B12 freed the piston rings and the second round couldn’t do anything else, so basically diminishing returns
2/ the remaining oil consumption may be due to the cylinder walls being damaged and letting oil through. Scope the cylinder walls to check the condition and look to see which spark plugs have black tips, indicates carbon buildup from oil burning
3/ I recommend you use high mileage oil. I know you like that Costco brand because it’s very cheap but I would test to see how much oil burns with high mileage 5w30 because it’s said to have seal additives that may help
High mileage engine oil just has added detergents and seal conditioners that work by softening the rubbers and they swell up which helps stop leaks from your engine seals. Oil burning can’t be stopped with high mileage oil by itself, especially after cleaning your engine with something like b-12. Most likely cause now is normal wear and tear from all the miles. A different weight of oil may further reduce the oil consumption though.
@@charlesmedrano5031run 10w40 instead of 5w30 will prolong the life. You're just shining a turd either way though and a rebuild will be necessary eventually.
@@charlesmedrano5031Valve seals can be conditioned.
It's (potentially) worth running a thicker oil. For example, 10w40 instead of 5w30.
The "risk" of actual damage starts to increase the further you push this (potential oil pump failure, or simply not enough oil circulating), I'm about to put 15w50 in my (5w30) engine, but I WON'T go to the extreme a friend of mine did and run 50w70 - he claims it's working ok for him (milking the last out of a dying engine) but my slightly more modern engine has smaller / thinner internal oil passages than his old clunker.
That’s the only difference is additives for seals nothing else
Thanks for these videos. Very informative. Just pulled the cylinder head from my wife’s 2004 Saturn Ion. Bent valves from broken timing chain guides, creating slop in the chain. Replaced the valves and guides, timing chain kit and head gasket. Now have it all back together. Doing the Berryman’s treatment on it now, as it has always smoked a little upon acceleration. Thought the new guides would fix it, but it didn’t. Good job on these videos. I appreciate how thorough you are with these tests. I am anxious to see if you get it figured out.
I hope you have success with your Saturn. Sounds like you’ve put a lot of sweat into it!
I can’t help just looking at your project in hope to stop my oil burning to do thank for what you’re doing buddy
It's encouraging comments like these that keep me motivated. Thanks, Stuart!
The only thing I would have done different is I would take each cylinder on its compression stroke about halfway up the boar & I would pour chemical in the cylinder, then put the spark plug in the hole and rotate by hand until hydro locked and hold pressure for a minute while you force the chemical down into the rings while trying to compress the liquid & remaining air. This will force the B12 or whatever you use into the ring lands and oil control rings.
I like to use lamp oil or camp fuel. It is a naphthinic compound that won't evaporate so easily...
Love BM Chemtool
Use in the gas every few thousand miles. Bought an f150 with a tick at idle . Put two bottles in the crankcase. Ran half hour and changed oil .
No more tick or any noise. 😊
I’d be putting some smaller amounts of the treatment in the cylinders but using more regular rotations of the crank to try break up deposits.
Maybe once per hour, with a small top up of the berrymans.
I think the increase in mechanical movement of the pistons and rings would improve the effectiveness of the treatment.
There’s a reason most engine/fuel treatments specify dilution in a certain amount of oil or fuel; it’s to allow the chemicals to have time to work incrementally in conjunction with the engines heating, cooling and running cycles.
I totally feel you. As a BMW inline 6 driver I’m facing similar problems. If you are 110% shure the valve stem seals are ok after changing them, oil on top of the piston could definitely be from the crankcase. I‘d definitely suggest installing some kind of catch can, even an empty glass marmelade with two holes in the lid can be used. It’s just important to understand what’s going on.
I seen a video of a guy with the BMW and it worked for him
One thing you can also try, is to get a lisle valve holder tool. Its the same type of hose for a compression kit, but you hook it up to compressed air like a leak down tester to hold your valves up if doing valve seals and not using the rope trick. When pairing that with a piston soak, supposedly helps push the splvent down the pistons instead of letting the solvent trickle down normally and helps agitate the carbon buildup to break free a little easier and makes piston soaks a bit faster. You can soak them initially for about 30 minutes and check to see if theyve drained through completely or not and depending on the results, adding more to the cylinder and then shooting air into the cylinder with the valve holder, or leak down tester to push it through.
I like this idea! I’m following along here trying to fix my old Miata.
I had great results with an engine flush additive . i was a 4cyl motorcycle and the cylinder pressure was way down. below the service limit. after the engine flush ran though the engine for 20mins.( then new oil n filter) the psi was up by 50psi. so it had sticking rings and the flush cleaned the crap out.
28:38 Youknow…. Just had a thought, you should try High Performance Lubricants Engine Cleaner product! If it’s rings, that stuff will do WONDERS! Group V base stock oil in Straight 30 or 40 grade with Alkylnated Naphthelenes and well I don’t know exactly the blend but it can be added to oil as-is! If it drops, as it has, add that as it is designed to also act as motor oil….
This stuff worked great on my ford 8n and my Allison Chambers both run great and stopped smoking Thanks so much for the video. Was ready to rebuild the motor and gave it a shot
Glad to hear :-)
this is one of my favorite stories to follow currently. thanks for the detailed persistence.
Along the lines of a catch can, have you replaced the PCV Valve ?
Followed the same procedure on a 2006 Miata that is burning 1 quart every 1000 miles. Used two bottles of Berryman's over a 24 hour period. The oil got seriously diluted with 32 oz of Berryman's treatment and the engine was missing and flashing over 2000 rpm. Ran the engine for about 10 mins in the garage, changed the oil and engine went back to normal. Be extra careful with this additive.
That’s kinda how this works..
Applied this process to my 2000 Celica with a severe oil burning, a quart in less than 100 miles. The results were very similar, after the treatment and the initial 30 miles drive, Hardly any oil was used. Working on the 300 mile drive now. Did get a code P0320 and pulled the second plug which was fouled with oil. Once completing the 300 mile drive, I will probably do a secind treatment as I think cylinger 2 rings are still somewhat stuck. Keep up the great videos.
Did you do second treatment? What are your consumption numbers BEFORE and AFTER doing second treatment?
@@tlaicontact Was burning a quart every 100 miles. Hardly burned any oil in first 300 miles. Did second treatment and now using about half quart in 400 miles or a full tank of gas.
@@bamabonkers Probably worn cyl walls or/and some rings became stuck again..
28:56 LOL the Celsius reading is on the inner track of the thermometer. Great video by the way. Looks like -3 C
Bummer, I was optimistic coming into this video, but love the perseverance.
I've also been told to look into the BG 109 EPR (Engine Performance Restoration) as it's supposedly more potent than Seafoam and Berrymans.
18:26, engines tend to get rid of overfilled oil. and some of the ingredients of the additive are volatile, especially xylene, and will evaporate away at temperatures below what a car runs at so you may not have lost any oil really.
I’ve been using Lucas complete engine treatment and Pennzoil high mileage oil with good results in my 2009 Camry with 102,000 miles on it. The car has the oil burning 4 cylinder engine in it that I went back to the dealer twice about and they said it was normal to burn a quart of oiI in 600 miles. I add the recommended amount to the crankcase and now burn a quart in 3000 miles.😊
Good info, Martin. Thanks!
I’m doing this on my 2nd Gen Scion Xb but I’m using at least 4 21ounce cans of Berrymans, and I’m going for one week of soak time, turning the engine once or twice a day. I’ll follow up the soak with fogging the cylinders, followed by changing the oil and filter.
I LOVE what you are doing with this Corolla, man! I had a 1993 4AFE 1.6!… now I have a Subaru!
Watching this one until the end!
Much appreciated!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY No problem! Had a thought.. Would you like me to buy a quart for you and send it, run it to see if it decreases consumption?
I still think your rings are coked up and the HPL EC will save your having to take the pistons out and drill the oil holes to unblock them like it is a Honda. It liquefied sludge, much like any Group V motor oil would eventually do but that stuff I’m telling you about, it is like magic. And it is safe for mix into motor oil!
Very interesting series. I would be curious to see what a 5w40 oil does to the consumption rate.
In my two personal cases, nothing
I switched to 10w30 and added some lucas oil stabilizer to counter oil consumption. It has slowed it down to about a quart every 2k miles
It would slow it down. But for how long. Maybe many years. Couldn't hurt
Don, no disrespect but I think you have that backwards.
My understanding is that the “5” in the number is the “W”, or cold, viscosity, and the “30” or “40” is the hot, or upper sting temp, viscosity. Meaning 5W40 acts as a thinner oil when cold and a thicker oil when hot. Trying 5W40 too help with compression and sealing could work.
I tried this and rotated the engine about once an hour. I noticed that the b-12 would leak past the rings in about an hour or 2. I'm going to try it again with a 50/50 mixture of b-12 and marvel mystery oil. I'm hoping the mixture will slow the leaking past the rings down and allow the mixture to soak longer on the rings and pistons. B-12 evaporates very fast,, the mixture should slow that down some.
Please let us know how it goes!
howd it go
@@neel1173 went from about 600 miles a quart to a 1000 miles a quart. Almost due for an oil change, this time Im going to try 50/50 gumout and marvel mystery oil. I saw a video and gumout seemed to do a little better job cleaning carbon than b-12
Great video! I do believe you are making progress. I do believe the oil will vaporize and lose viscosity over a period of time. Might be the "type of oil" or thickness. I'm thinking of doing a second treatment as well.
I love this series! Definitely get a catch can. I put one in my car and it is ming boggling how much oil it catches.
Thanks for the vote, Chip!
Have you checked out the videos about the problem with catch cans? I was starting think about getting one. After seeing how the catch can can create a pressurized block and blow out seals I've re-thought my plans.
A bit of 2 stroke oil mixed with the berryman’s would make sense to me. A bit of lubricant seems like a good idea.
Cleaning the PCV is super easy and fast may help relieve crank case pressure which could be attributing to burning oil from excessive pressure in the system, I think it’s safe to say the B12 has done all it can do for your Toyota hopefully we can help come up with more solutions on the comments ☝🏽
Lubeguard has a nice engine flush kit that comes with a treatment after the flush, that stays with the new oil.
Between the flush I had used a cheap filter and cheap oil and idled the car for 15, just to remove the chemicals that would have stayed over with Chen flush. Got the tip from a video on RUclips!
He already checked the PCV valve in one of the previous episodes I believe
Just replace it with a new one .
Hi Dave! I've been following your videos for a while because I have the oil bruning problem in my Lexus RX300. After a lot of brain burnings and additive testings, I decide to overhaul the engine including valve jobs, new valve seals, new head gasket, new pistond rings, new rod and crank shaft bearings ...etc, etc. The good news is that the average gas milege improved from 17 to 19 mpg and engine runs like new. The bad news is that the oil still burning as badly as before. Some lessons I have learned so far are: 1. the oil burning rate for a given engine is actually proportional to the blow-by and the blow-by is proportional to the cylinder wall worn. 2 There is no easy additive remedy to free seized oil rings. In my case, all six oil rings are seized and the only thing can free them is a small screw driver. 3 against most people's intuition, the major oil burning route is actually through the PCV valve to the intake manifold chamber and driven by the blow-by, not due to the seized oil rings failed to scrach the oil on the cylingder wall.
So installing an oil catch can will not solve the oil burning issue.
I agree with Peter but only can carculate how much oil lost by blow by. Oil catch can most benefit to vw direct injection engine.
@@peterlai9018 Correct, but it might show how much is being reintroduced into the intake vs passing by the rings…
Thanks for all the info. That's a bummer the oil continued to burn. I know some Corolla owners said re-ringing and replacing pistons eliminated their oil burning.
High boost turbo cars have a catch can because of really high blow by. My boosted (30lbs) had a vented catch can that I piped back into the crank case so it would drain back. Just a thought.
I know this is a few years old. Gonna try this for my wife passat next oil change. Thanks for your time man.
On a side note, my 94 Corolla had these issues. Also, I didn't think much of it because it was my 600 dollar commuter car. I ended up feeding it Shell Rotella 15w40 diesel. And it stopped using oil 😅
Good to hear the Rotella worked!
The reason you use less oil directly after an oil change is because then the oil is not yet diluted with gasoline. Gasoline makes the oil thinner. Once you drive a while and gasoline leaks down the rings, oil gets thinner and oil usage goes up. Still the results are great!
By the way, you can proof fairly simply you have gasoline in your oil by dripping some old oil on a piece of (coffee) filter paper. The gasoline then separates from the oil. Alternatively you buy one of those fancy tests or if it's really bad, you can smell the gasoline inside the oil.
it also could be low quality oil which looses viscosity after some time (i once had it with super cheap oil)
I've done the gasoline oil separation test for decades and smelling the dipstick people wondering what the hell I was doing clear back in the seventies
The miss was most likely fouled plugs from the excess chemicals as well as high voc xylene vapours coming through your crank case-PCV which would cause it to run rich. Also the boiling off of those vapours along with oil that vaporises easier while diluted would decrease the volume for the 20 minute + drive to work 19:08
This is great! Some suggestions for the next time you do this:
- Position the car so the pistons are level to save B12
- Put 4 oz in a combustion chamber, use your scope to check if the whole piston is covered
- Instead of rotating the engine around move the crank back and forth so the pistons move only about 5-10 mm up and down
- Before you start the engine, if the stuff didn't drain down, remove it with vacuum pump or a turkey baster
Even though your engine shows full operating temperature, the oil takes a good while longer to reach full operating temperature. Your temp gauge is reading coolant temperature. Generally, you need to drive it for roughly 5 - 10 min after coolant reaches full temperature to get the oil temperature up to full temperature.
I can’t remember if you’ve done this or not but a compression test and a leak down test for each cylinder is certainly in order. I’d be interested to see if a high mileage oil would help. One thing I’m concerned about is running the engine with fluid levels higher than the full marks. When you fill the oil too much you can have issues with the crankshaft contacting the oil and causing it to foam up. When that happens, the oil pickup can’t do its job and you’ll starve the engine of lubricant. It’s possible that the solvents will prevent the foaming as well which would be good in this instance.
Once the engine is at operating temp those lighter chemicals in the b12 will flash off. I agree though not a good idea if the overfill is all oil, just not the case in this scenario.
Someone on RUclips did an oil over fill test to see how far you had to over fill before bad things began to happen to the engine. I was actually shocked by how much oil they added before there was a problem.
My theory with the missing is that the Berrymans is evaporating out of the oil and entering the intake via the pcv valve and making the AF ratio rich. Also explains oil volume reducing. Just a guess… thanks for documenting this for us.
I've used B12 for 20 years. Pour in the oil a day before oil change, pour in gas to clean injectors, the reason stores run out, is dirty thieves and no manual ordering. My local Walmart has only had one can of QD electronic cleaner for months, and someone dropped it and broke the nozzle off
The best way to see good results from the berryman is to have the engine running and while giving it throttle from the throttle body dump a quick splash right into the throttle body and run the whole bottle right through the intake. That hot intake and combustion vaporizes the berryman and soaks the walls and intake runners and stuff just like the water vapor trick. I just did a berryman treatment on my 2002 dodge durango and 2006 jeep commander and added a can to the fuel tank. Derek from vice grip garage has shown many times how berryman takes a smoking old engine thats been sitting for a long time and frees up stuck rings and stops smoking on those old stuck engines.
Enjoyed the video Dave, have a couple of suggestions. 1: Get some fresh spark plugs in for a plug reading after you deem it necessary to add oil. Looking at the bore scope it seemed cyl #2 may be the offender. The plug reading may confirm this and allow you to focus more on the problematic cylinder. 2: I believe the addition of the berrymans to a warm cylinder may have a more dramatic effect. Go drive the vehicle and build some good heat (not idling), remove the spark plug and add your dosage. If you can narrow it down to a cylinder might consider replacing that spark plug again for additional plug readings.
Haha forgot I have a third recommendation, PCV inspection. Blowby gasses can pressurize the crankcase causing issues like leaking seals and oil consumption. Not familiar with this vehicles PCV system but inspect the valve or fixed orifice for flow restrictions. Possible theres a hose out of position thats slightly kinked impeding pcv airflow causing the consumption.
I simply used gasoline down the spark plug holes to soak the rings. The cylinders were allowed to dry out before adding the next treatment, and this was carried out over a 24hr period. After this treatemnt, my Pontiac vibe with a 2.4L went from 600/700 miles to a quart of oil consumption to over 1000 miles. A 50% decrease. So as far as I am concerned, gas works just fine.
Good info Roger.
Hi I have a Toyota echo 1.3 my car is burning oil so I have changed the Pcv valve and a notice oil into the hose from the pcv to collector and I find that valve cover if your turn over there is a metal plate I took off the plate and it was full of burnt oil....and now it is much better I didn't try your method yet ...here some videos about what I did
Minute 57
ruclips.net/video/VMWL-DbD1Uw/видео.htmlsi=fsXd0EJetYXWWy4y
And
ruclips.net/user/shorts_ICm-_iEkdo?si=6Zc3NJYvuB-fry3w
interesting
Your misfire with B12 in the crankcase is probably due to the crank case breather in your intake. The B12 is 'gassing off' , it's turning into vapor and being burned in the engine(it's a solvent). Acting like a richer mixture. Hence why it doesn't do it after you change your oil.
what I understand from "car care nut channel " 1ZZ engine is one of the worst in the Toyota lineup. I had a corolla, manual as yours, 1999 for 19 years, and I had the same problem. I solve the problem of valve stem seals by adding AT 205. I tried different stuff to cut oil consumption but in vain. Finally, I get rid of it this year.
As a lot of others have said, ruling out the PVC would be a good idea, including adding a catch can. The oil laying on top of the cylinders is concerning. It’s likely being forced there under pressure (PVC?). The other strategy might be to just put some type of additive, as you have been doing, and drive it for awhile. Give it some time, who knows the rings might not be seating well after all of the solvent you have subjected them to. Maybe they will reseat.
The oil level dropped, because the amount of B12 evaporated and was burned by the engine. Now the oil level has to stay stable.
you should re install the plugs while soaking the cylinders to slow the drainage past the rings and evaporation. I would also plug the PCV vacuum line and let it vent during the drive this could be the misfire problem, also add some dextron ATF to each cylinder and cycle the engine with the plugs out before running for lubrication. I would like to see you add a catch can that will tell you if it's gummed up oil rings or low tension compression rings causing it to consume oil, it will also help eliminate future carbon buildup.
This absolutely worked for my 2.5 l equinox, 1 litre a week to 1 litre a month and much better gas milage, I used seafoam but berrymans is even better I heard.,, Thankyou !!!!
Glad to hear it!
I would love to see how far you can go with reducing oil burning
...in his last post he finally found the successful method to stop the oil burning - the engine was saving so much oil it was too much oil saved, it was over-flowing the dipstick, OP had set up a road-side stall to sell the surplus engine oil.
@@robertmaybeth3434LOL 😂
I love this aquarium. Hope you and your family did, too! Thanks for the videos.
We did! ... Thanks for the kind comment!
Also, one thing that's important about your high rpm drive isn't just Rpms, but also engine load. Having the engine working harder (like if you were towing in a truck or something) can increase cylinder pressure and temperature more than just high rpms. I recommend trying that. Find a long grade and go rip up it a time or 20 and see if it helps.
1st thru 4th floored to redline 😂,but I agree high load would be better then high sustained RPM with low load on the freeway.
@sHoRtBuSseR so youre telling me I should do a hill climb with my 2AZ?
Hi Dave---new subscriber because I'm really interested in this.
I have an '06 Ford 5.4 3v Triton known for the spark plugs breaking off in the engine. Which 7 of 8 did when I changed that original set. Using the Lisle tool was able to remove all but 2. Took to a shop where they did whatever they had to...ever since then the engine has burned oil.
My dad was no mechanic but he took care of our vehicles and tractors and such. I remember his method of changing oil (because I helped many a time.)
He would get the engine hot and put the vehicle on the rack and pull the plug and filter...let it drain pretty good.
Then he would take put on a cheap filter, put in cheap, thin oil minus 1 quart and finish it off with 1 quart of diesel.
He'd let it run for about 5 or 10 minutes. Shut it off and pull the filter and plug and let it drain a long time---even overnight sometimes.
We never had a problem with oil usage and it almost looked as clean at 5000 miles as when we put it in there.
For what it's worth I do remember seeing B12 Chemtool cans in the shop but not sure what he used that for.
Will be watching to see how this turns out for you. Your tenacity is AMAZING!!!! Jesus bless.
Thanks for the suggestion, Sandra!
If I recall correctly these engines actually not too prone to burn oil compared to the later 2008-2015 years in different models, those are notorious to burn oil. I saw some crosshatch on some if your earlier videos, so I'd actually just pull the pistons, install a new set of rings, hone the cylinder walls and throw everything together and see what happens.
One does not simply pull the pistons and rings
If you pull the pistons to give a quick hone and rings. Take some of the old rings. Snap them into pieces. Put them in a set of vice grips and clean the carbon out of ring grooves. Not ideal. But quick and cheap. Putting in new rings without cleaning the carbon in ring grooves is kinda waste of time.
You may want to consider as soon as you shut off the vehicle after driving it hard pull the plugs and see if you can hear or see oil dripping from the valve seals. I’ve experienced this before on an Integra with bad valve stem seals. Could hear the drip sizzle and smoke after pulling the plug.
My suggestion is more high rpm driving. I like the idea of marvel in both the oil and the fuel and do a long high rpm highway drive. I also recommend an oil with higher detergents, like amsoil or penzoil ultra platinum but they are pricey, so I'll leave it up to you. Love the series
Thanks for the suggestions!
I think you should get a leak down test done on each cylinder so you can confidently say whether it’s the rings, intake or exhaust valves.
Yes, by all means add a catch can. Then you can see how much oil you are using due to blowby. Second, check your pcv valve to make sure it releases at the right pressure.
I've been watching your videos on this oil burning journey and it looks like you finally found something that helps. Congrats! In regards to your destination in the video, I found the Georgia Aquarium to be quite good and IMHO it's better than Monterey. But if you want something quite different, take a visit to the Tennessee Aquarium. It's darn impressive and focuses mostly on freshwater stuff. Despite the focus on freshwater, I'd consider the Tennessee Aquarium to be the best aquarium experience I've had so far. I've been to Monterey, Georgia, Ripleys, Tennessee, and the Sea World aquariums.
Thank you, and I'll have to look into the Tennessee Aquarium :-)
The barrymens mix you have in that engine is making it too thin and overfilled. I think that's what's causing the slip.
You change oil and put the recommended oil viscosity in and no slip.
Project farm did a product called “restore” on a tractor that burned a crazy amount of oil, I wonder if something similar would work
Restore is pretty great for band aiding piston rings that are a little worn and let blow by.
This engine has variable timing so Restore will kill it.
There product like restore I did reserch those additive like decades. There Engine restore have two weakness 1 only last 3000 mile and 2 can't use on vvti engine. There Engine restore like additive last 60000 mile but I not experienced with it . At commercial said it and can Use on vvti engine . According to they said it can restore compression and fill cyclinder wall and reseat ring . But not helping stacked ring. It Xado additive sell on Amazon.
I would change oil brands. I have a Subaru car and it's important to put the dipstick in a certain way on it. It has a oil can on the handle, so not suppose to put in with the little oil can upside down , but it probably don't matter on your car
I think the next experiment should be an oil stabilizer. I'm curious if that will change anything. A catch can is something else worth trying
I put RevX in a Mitsubishi with frozen rings. Ran it all the time. It freed up the rings and boosted the MPG by 4.
For this model engine, that has significant challenges with the rings, I'd suggest you put in a pint of "Rislone High Mileage Engine Treatment" at every oil change.
The ignition miss is probably either an ignition coil on its way out,or a fuel injector on its way out.
You would need to capture or view live data from a scan tool to determine which cylinder is the culprit, so that you can swap/test parts. with other cylinders.
If you can figure out which cylinder is the one with the miss, best way to determine if it's coil or injector is move the coil to one cylinder, and the injector to the other.
If the miss then follows the part to one of those two cylinders, then that's the cause.
If the problem stays in the cylinder, then you know you have a mechanical issue (valve or head gasket leak) specific to that one.
I think a thicker oil is in order for this engine. That should bring oil consumption down a lot. I'd try a 10W-40
Oil burners love thick oil.
good video,i have a 94 civic Honda BOUGHT IT NEW, when it got to 500,000 miles it overheated, i loosened the radiator cap and drove back and forth to work 110 miles a day,it burned 1 quart per week.i took a few days off and decided to pull the head and do the gasket,at the same time i had on hand a set of STOCK piston rings so i pulled the pistons,checked the rod bearings with plasitigage .002 still good.as i removed the oil control rings a big surprise every single oil drain hole on EVERY piston was plugged.A .062 drill bit by hand and i cleared all the holes and put the new set of std rings on.now two years later and 2 oil changes and it's only burned 1/2 quart every 3000 miles,i retired 2 weeks after that overheat so now i drive 1/10 as much.But i would say check valve stem seals,PCV,then piston rings AND OIL CONTROL HOLES.hope that helps.
I'm just chiming in here, as its very important for anyone reading this thread to understand that the oil rings are first part of problem, the truly hard part of the problem is the piston holes. How to unclog them is the real crux of the issue here. If you dont unplug those holes form the hard carbon in them, you will never get the oil usage back to normal levels.
I suspect the berrymans is doing a good job to clear the rings of carbon, but the holes will still be clogged, I've suggested a method in this thread how to clear those holes using the berrymans, but its an untested idea. It involved overfilling the engine so that the oil level is just below the top of piston at bottom of its stroke, then turning the engine over at low rpm so that the underside of the head where the oil holes exit slaps into the oil at significant pressure, forcing the berrymans into those holes, would likely require turning engine for a day or two via starter motor ( plugs taken out of course), could the starter motor handle that long a period running? ( would need power supply to run the starter motor directly)
I think its got a chance of working
🤔 maybe I could drop the pan and scrape them out from the inside with a pick.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've thought the same thing, I think it would be really difficult to do,
dropping the pan alone wouldn't give you access, there is extra section at bottom would need remove, to get to the crankshaft area,
I cant really say if you would be able to get to the holes or not, I'm guessing would be a bit nightmarish job, if enough room at all to get in there, my dremel tool has long flexible hose can put drill onto it, something like that would help.
Dont take my negativity as saying its not possible, I dont know.
this video ( although quite dark) does show toyota bulletin about the piston oil return holes at 3:20 mark
ruclips.net/video/17rcHhFhFE4/видео.html
also I looked up teardown videos of this engine, removing sump you would get access to pistons but I really doubt enough room to do anything regarding the piston holes
If you are trying to stop the oil burning, have you changed out the pcv valve? Clean out the egr valve if it has one and clean the IAC valve. Suggestion u can get an oil catch can off Amazon and it will give u a volume to how much actual blowby u have as opposed to guessing what is blowby vs consumption my man 💪
Thanks for the suggestion!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Do those engines even have an EGR Radiator or EGR Valve? If so, then first I'd consider if being like the Prius 2ZR-FXE, clean the intake manifold holes that clog up pretty bad and what "Gasket Masters" YT channel notes is that causes a vacuum due to when the intake air not being from the intake switches to the EGR circuit gases as air intake. Without the EGR intake circuit flowing enough air, the vacuum pulls oil through the PCV Valve circuit since the air intake valve isn't opened enough and into the intake and over time gums up the oil seal rings since the oil come in through the air intake circuit. Oil catch cans and repositioning of the PCV Valve (at least with the 2ZR since not up by the head as typical and down by the oil pan on the crankcase) up beside the head and maybe also having vertical reads like helps before routing the hose/pipe to the oil catch can and back into the intake circuit. I have not idea about your engine. Will have to read into when I get the time.
@@jafinch78 You made me go out and pop the hood to check. 😅I never noticed whether it had an EGR or not. .... It doesn't ... just pcv. ... Good info though!
I’d like to see the catch can added to see how much oil is coming from the pcv system. For all we know the ring problem could be solved (doubtful) and it’s just an excessive amount of blow by. It would also be helpful to deduct the amount oil caught by the catch can from the overall amount burned. It may turn this one large problem into multiple small problems that add up overtime. Either way it’s nice to have the evidence from the catch can to confirm your ring fix or unfortunately dispel your efforts!
Might I also suggest EPR engine flush by BG followed up with a can of MOA in the fresh oil after. I’ve used it on multiple ls engines with stuck rings with good results.
I did it for my 2013 Avalon hybrid. She was eating 1qt oil every 300 miles. I used 100ml B12 for one cylinder, after 24 hours, I use a long air gun blow out the B12, drive 20 minutes, changed oil, then changed all the spark plugs. This car only drive in city, it was getting 21MPG.
I would love to see what an oil catch can would do, and how you would introduce. Also, have you tried going to a thicker oil to see if that would help? I appreciate your content, and I'm having similar issues with my 2 Kia Rio's.
Thanks for the vote ... and I haven't tried thicker oil yet.
A little trick I've learned, with the oil hard to see on the dip stick. Go over the end of the dip stick with some fine sandpaper. It dulls the finish and you can really see the oil level so much better. I actually glass beaded mine at work in which does the same thing.
Great idea!!
They are called snake oils for a reason. I suggest running Castrol high mileage oil that comes in the green jug. It used to say "with superior burn off protection" right on the front but at some point they moved or removed it all together. Still seems to be the same oil and has performed great for all my +200k mile engines.
Additional fuel or berrymans in crankcase is being evaporated thru the pcv and causing a real high air fuel ratio because it's being burned in the cylinder thru the pcv system
It has what's called an "extended crank" because every time you (unnecessarily)
disconnect the battery for your experiments, you're clearing the Drive Cycle memory,
and it must do a relearn- one PID being a Cam/Crank correlation value. I notice the
SES/CEL light was on during your earlier drives; MPG, HP are going to be drastically affected until the new map is learned, and any DTC are remedied and cleared, with the SES/CEL off. Has anyone told you this before? Do you have a Scan Tool?
Once again, infinite thanks for the update!! I did the treatment couple of weeks back to my VW GTI 2007 120kmiles.
[Update (2/16/2023): Oil consumption before: 1qtr in ~400miles. After: 1qtr every 500miles. The car certainly drives much better (was unable to accelerate without smoking everyone and now it's mostly ok) but still not good. I got similar theory to yours... Berryman's unstacked couple of cylinders but the original one (which is the one who started my ordeal) still stuck]
Quick highlights in case they help:
1. Checked with the scope how much Berryman's was left after each 6hrs treatment. After 1st treatment nothing was left so thought that just "topping it off" wouldn't do it for the treatments afterwards, as that "small" amount may just sit at the bottom evaporating and don't reach the border of the piston (?). Instead, spread the amount in the cans over each treatment.
2. Used about the same amount as you (1.5-2 cans), i.e., ~800ml.
3. I pour a bit of Berryman's in a glass container and waited 6 hrs to see how much would evaporate. I guess it depends on the ratio of surface to volume (?) but it did go maybe 5-10% down but not more than that, so the loss I had in my car was probably down through the walls. Regardless, I partially placed the spark plugs back in after each treatment (took them out before rotating the engine).
4. The last treatment I did it with a syringe connected to a small plastic hose, and squirting the Berryman's in the cylinder. Hope would be to splash all the walls inside specially if my motor was not sitting flat. A thought would be to put the cylinder on the highest position with valves closed and have a gig that fits the spark plug opening, with the hose inside, to somehow pressure inject the Berryman's in there. Yeah... Maybe too fancy. Just saying...
5. In that sense, not sure why the engine has to be dead center when you add the liquid. I guess it could be in any position, isn't it? As long as you rotate it few times later...
6. Interestingly, as I said, after the first treatment Berryman's was gone from all cylinders. But after the 2nd, cylinder #1 had always something left. By the last treatment, cylinders #1 and #2 had some left. Maybe if the engine is good, the Berryman's should stay in the cylinder. It would be nice to check with a "new" car.
7. Also not sure if this helps but turning the crank was always the same hard for me along the 4 treatments. Nevertheless, within a cycle, it was hard-soft-hard-soft every 90 degrees. With the hard when the cylinders were centered.
8. Took me 3 hard tries to get the car started (no surprise). Lots of smoke like you. Drove at 4500rpm in the highway 20 min either by 3rd gear/60 miles/hr or 4th gear/80miles/hr
Note: Checked for compression (on cold) before the whole treatment. It was even about the cylinders about 180psi. Added a spoon of oil to one cylinder and somehow was lower 160-170psi. Weird... may have not done it properly but moved on.
Lots of good info. Thanks!
As a last resort I’d try BG complete engine flush. It’s expensive but I’ve never seen a negative result on those Ive read about.
Great series as I about to try this on a ‘13 crv with blowby and burning oil issues.
I work at a Honda dealership. We only recently started using the BG dynamic engine flush, but a couple coworkers from another dealership that used it longer both vouched for it. And every time I've seen it used, it cut oil consumption by 90+%.
@@SkylineFTW97 thank you. I replaced my pcv valve and did the piston soak over night adding 2 oz every 6 hours. Took about 10 crank cycles to get her started but that combo has 700 miles on it and I’m barely under the full mark. So it has helped. I’m thinking the pcv helped the most. I was only getting air blowing out the cover. After the swap the cap literally gets sucked from my finger tips. I was told that air actually goes in and out rapidly from the oil fill cap if it is venting properly and only put if it is not.
Excellent work! Excellent videos. And I love the Matthew 5 at the end.😍
Much appreciated Clint!
Speaking as a mechanic; you really need to do a compression test and see how far below recommend psi it is and have a look with the camera. No amount of carbon cleaning will help if there is a bad wear scar on the cylinder wall, Sorry...
I love your ingenuity and creative problem solving. I think I'm gonna slightly modify the process for my Audi Q7. They are notorious oil burners. The misfires;.....It could be that the fire-arm lube/protectant that you sprayed into the cylinders may have coated the spark plug at start up and that residue from the burn has left a coating on the electrode that is partially fouling the plug from a good clean full strength spark/firing. I would also be concerned about running the motor as hard or long as you did in the first experiment for any length of time with the Berryman's thinning the oil so significantly. That has to have significantly lowered the viscosity. Motor oil chemistry is a very finicky science. I would think I might want to drain it after risking only a brief period of idle only and then go to a high detergent oil of the proper weight thereafter. Can't be to careful with multi-thousand dollar motors.
I've done many similar experiments over several years in all kinds of environments.
My observation: oil use is MUCH lower when it's cold than when it's hot... and much lower when the engine never gets particularly hot. So, short trips==less use; long trips==more. (More per 100 miles)
I don't actually know of a good solution, other than replacing pistons and rings. That's what I'm preparing to do.
My grandfather was a mechanic for forty years. He swore Berryman's B-12 Chem tool was great stuff.
So he never wrenched on a modern engine with twin turbos, direct injection, plasma spray bore and VVT? 😂
Berryman's B-12 is $4 Acetone. If you're try to clean carbon, fork out the $17 for a 30-50% PEA cleaner like Amsoil PI or Redline S-1.
Has more then just acetone that's why it's not $4
Stay-Bil makes a product in an aerosol can called fogging oil. It’s made to coat the cylinders and valves for storage. That would prevent dry starts which could score the cylinder walls making your problem worse.
You probably lose 4 oz of oil just checking it so often 😂
Try Engine Restore! It works! Restores compression and can cut down on oil consumption. I would love to see the video on it. I’ve seen a lot of videos with restore and compression tests but not on oil consumption. They claim it to cut down oil consumption too.
Without going into a lot of detail, probably the drain-back holes in the pistons are still blocked. The first treatment with b-12 appears to have freed the rings up, but it's going to take considerably more to open those little holes in the pistons behind the rings. Your best hope, without disassembly, is going to be in working b-12 into those areas of the pistons and soaking as long as possible, before the high rpm drive.
Having said that, it's very unlikely to work at this point, for a variety of reasons, with one of them being when you did the first high rpm drive it probably hard baked the carbon into those holes and they're not likely to soften again...
1qt per 1000mi is very common in the 2000s, so I wouldn't get too wound up over that. The next best way to improve oil consumption is to increase efficiency so it takes less throttle to accelerate. This is a long subject, but requires making sure you have no vacuum leaks(oil leaks can cause vacuum leaks on Fuel Injected cars even when there's no CEL), and taking care of all the details to get it in top running condition.
Thanks for all the advice!
Do you think the method would work on a Ford 4.6 motor?
@@rodneyunderwood6236 What he did should have some level of success on any engine that has stuck rings.
But, I would try running Engine Restorer in the oil before doing this. It's designed to do the same job with less risk...
Ok thanks for the advice
My Silverado with 150K+ miles was using about a quart every 1000 miles. I used a Stiction Eliminator in it for about 500 miles before an oil change and the oil turned DARK immediately after adding it. The consumption has dropped to about a quart between oil changes which is about 6000 miles. I attribute this drop in use(my truck has the DOD feature) to desludging the oil control rings. My theory is that the DOD feature caused sludge build up in the oil control rings since they are low tension any more. Cleaning out the buildup in the rings I think obviously made a world of difference. I have started using this product on ALL my vehicles including my riding mowers and it seems to help.
Try using an oil air separator so that evaporated oil goes back to the oil pan
I've used Chemtool B-12 for years. I pour a can in the gas tank every 3 or 4 fill ups. My 2017 Subaru Forester 2.5i Premium has oil changes every 5,000 to 6,000 miles and I've never had to add any oil.