Does speed affect oil usage? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 18
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- Опубликовано: 24 дек 2022
- Jam packed video! We test how driving speed affects oil use, scope the throttle-body, do a cold compression test ... and EXCITING news of what's to come!
#oilburner #stuckrings #pistonrings #1zz
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If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this RUclips channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. 
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Oil burning experiments playlist: ruclips.net/p/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj
Have you tried any full synthetic oil stabilizer? I had a car that burned a little oil and that stuff really helped keep the oil out of the pistons. Not sure what it would do to longevity (had a gm 3.6 so I didn't really care) but I've never been in a situation where I regretted using that stuff for 10+ year old cars
There's a distinctive difference between "stuck" rings and "worn out" rings:
Stuck rings cause high oil consumption at all revs because they leave an open gap .
Worn out rings cause oil consumption at high revs because they lack tension pressing them against the cylinder walls, causing them to lift at higher revs to ride on top the oil film instead of "scraping" the oil down to the oil pan.
You seem to unfortunately have a car that had stuck, worn out piston rings, so now that they're unstuck they're still worn out...
I've done a total of 3 weekend long piston soaks with a combo of Berrymans, sea foam deep creep and seafoam cleaner. I was using about a qt between 500 to 800 miles 2AZFe Scion with 192k. I changed oil at about 2500 to 3k miles between soaks and added mmo to the fresh oil changes. First two soaks showed a little improvement but after the last soak I'm at 2200 miles and not a drop of oil used. I think it's just multiple soaks that will get them rings to free up. Get engine nice and warm before soak. So far so good no oil used and oil is staying clean looking. Most of my driving is freeway speeds.
Update 2600 miles and no oil burned
Update 3062 miles about 1/4 of a quart used and oil is starting to get a little dirty. Not going to add any oil probably change completely at 3500 miles. So far so good hardly any oil has
been used and oil is staying clean.
Update just changed oil at just under 3500 miles. It used maybe a 1/4 of a qt of oil and oil was getting dark and dirty. I never filled it just changed the oil entirely. Put in some MMO with fresh oil and reset the tripometer. So 1/2 qt approx maybe a little more between 5k oil changes if I drove it to 5k. Gonna continue to monitor oil and change between 3500 to 4k or less. I'll continue to add cleaning agents and will do piston soaks as needed but this seems to have done the trick hopefully it will stay this way.
Update changed oil at just under 3500 miles. Currently at 978 miles since and no oil burned. So looks like I'm at approx a half qt to qt burned for 5k intervals which isn't all that bad imo. I will continue to change oil fully under that 5k recommend mileage and use cleaners in the engine. Best wishes!!
This guy has done many treatments so these rings or parts of them are probably really gummed up or stuck; so am not sure any new or repeated treatment will work at this point.
Good info, Thanks! About what ratio of those chems are you using? And do you do anything besides a soak? Rotation?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY whoever told you oil was getting past the spark plug threads into the cylinders if that much oil was getting in there hypothetically speaking it would be smoking like a freight train and the plugs would be fouled with oil there is no possible way for oil to get past the spark plug threads they fit so tight and the crush washer as you mentioned it would be a constant billow of oil smoke if it were getting in past the spark plug the plugs would be oil fouled as I said in order for that scenario to happen your spark plug threads would have to be so wore out they wouldn’t stay tight and if that were the cause you would hear it making a loud noise and power loss due to the compression escaping past the spark plug threads so you’ve debunked that theory awesome videos always look forward to your videos merry Christmas everyone
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I use approx 2/3rds cup to a cup per interval per cylinder. I don't have an exact measurement. But the Berryman is about 2/3 each cylinder and the remainder divided up with the deep creep and seafoam cleaner. I think a key factor is to have your engine warm when you add the chemicals. I let it sit for at least a whole day. I then crank it over a few secs and blow it out and repeat the soak. Obviously the engine is cool with the repeat but I let it soak another day then blow it all out again. I also use a large syringe with plastic tube and I have it taped to a chop stick so I can feed it into the cylinders and get out any remaining fluid. But just cranking gets most out. I then change the oil and add some mmo to the fresh oil. Then I take it out and floor it multiple times and get it nice and hot and just drive it aggressively a while. So far so good no oil used since the last soak and the oil is still clean. Normally it would be black by this time. Thanks for your vids Dave. Merry Christmas to you and yours. Take care!
Watching. You’ll love the smell of ATS . Good luck
I quite literally load up youtube every day just to check if you have uploaded the latest oil burning video yet.
Thanks, Nick. Much appreciated.🙂
In regards to the racoon, I understand wholeheartedly. Almost identical situation and it was wildly emotional. It seemed the poor racoon passed from high velocity lead poisoning.
Btw yours is the only video where there has been a real improvement in oil consumption that I have seen. I have been looking
Not true.
ruclips.net/video/V5e3xQeXCLo/видео.html&pp=ygUZZXVyb3RyYXNoIG9pbCBjb25zdW1wdGlvbg%3D%3D
ruclips.net/video/bTEwZgXhzRs/видео.html&pp=ygUZZXVyb3RyYXNoIG9pbCBjb25zdW1wdGlvbg%3D%3D
Thanks again for the update video. Sounds like you're getting closer!
I'm really enjoying your videos on the Corolla! I'm as interested in your findings as anyone! Keep up the good work!
The hose without the pcv is pulling filtered air into the crankcase and the intake vacuum pulls the vapors out of the crankcase through the pvc valve. There are baffles inside of the cable cover that can get gunked up and can allow liquid oil to pass through. Pcv valves can also get gunked up and do the same.
Thx for the vids. I like good data interrupted with randomness too. Also not a fan of the food chain. I dig it.
I love this series! Super interesting!
Much appreciated!
Love the series. Very appreciative of the scientific methods used. Keep up the videos
Thank you!
Hi Dave thank you for yours experiment I got a 2001 Corolla keep the good videos is really helpfull
I appreciate thorough way of how Dave does investigation.
Thank you!
Nice job buddy! Merry Christmas. Can’t wait for the next one…
Thanks! Merry Christmas to yo too!
Rule of thumb is this.
More oil used on open road it is the piston rings.
More oil used in the city. Its the valve stem seals.
The Family Faces shot at beginning of road trip was priceless!
Love the scenery 😍.
Except that 'Community' site clearing, but alas, nowhere is safe from that.
Can't wait for Oil Catch Can install! I looked into them some after last vid and also am considering it now.
Happy driving 🚗 and Happy New Year!
Thank you! And Happy New Year to you and yours as well!
I am not bored, you carry on this is GOOD information and THANK you very much for your time and effort
Much appreciated!!
Scott K reminds me of Ray Adam's Toyota commercials in the 80s ... home of the buy 1 get one free. I look forward to watch/ listening to your calm presentation on the next treatment.
Not sure what instructions come with next treatment, but buying the cheapest oil to rinse engine for 2 minutes will help remove any parasitic remnants of cleaner that could influence oil consumption. I have a 6qt box of oil for an 8.5qt oil pan that I used once and plan to reuse for this purpose. Also, doing so will minimally improve oil loss by rinsing old diluted oil from within . I chose to use only 1 clean filter; the rinse could not contaminate filter anymore than no rinse and same number of filters.
Once again I have to mention how Rislone released gunked up rings on Oldsmobile Disease-ls from the 78-on. Replace lost oil with it as well as including 1 bottle with fresh oil change. Rislone greatly restored power and fuel economy, which in return reduced soot out the tailpipe.
I love data in these engine episodes. Great car trip there. I've heard good things about BG and Yamalube and the last one. I'm looking forward for more testing and data. I remember when i had my 02 Ford Focus with the 1.6 Zetec SE Sigma engine that burned lot of oil i looked down one of the cylinders when the piston was at bottom stroke and all the cross hatching was gone at the bottom stroke but at the middle and top stroke it was plenty of cross hatching left. I have a theory that the oil control ring was stuck and causing piston slap that again caused more wear at the bottom stroke. But it's only a theory and i don't know if it's legit. It may be also be that the previous first owner of the Focus didn't break in engine properly but that i have very hard to believe. Great video 😊👍
Please keep going on with your experiments because I have the same kinda situation with my scion xb which I have been told has a very similar engine and Id love to see what actually works.
Lots of short trips can hide oil consumption because the oil never gets hot enough to evaporate the condensed fuel & water from blowby gases.
Man, I don’t know where you live, but I want to move there for the scenery
There is another way to use the Berryman. Add a cup 500 miles before the oil change. Then run a cup though the vacuum line to the brake booster (at 3K RPM) wait ten minutes and drive with a full throttle pull to burn the residue out.
When you did the compression test and the #3 cylinder was down on compression it also had a much different sound than the rest as you were turning it over. The head and block have a mating oil gallery to return the oil from the rockers back down to the pan. The head gasket seals that gallery from leaking oil out between the head and block to the outside of the engine. More importantly it seals the return oil from being sucked into the cylinder. That galley is usually very close to the combustion chamber. If the head gasket is leaking between the two it will suck oil in on the intake stroke and push compression out on the compression stroke. That compression will end up in pcv valve and then back into the throttle body. Ask me how I know, I've already been there!
Watching your videos I ended up doing the same treatment On my 2001. I had oil draining down from cylinder #4 on and I wanted to treat it 185k miles. So far I haven't gotten it on the road to test but it seemed to have made a difference besides smoking everything off. I'll keep watching!
I'm hoping for the best for you!
I have a Scion xA with a 1nzfe engine and also have oil consumption after 175k miles. Now it is at 228k miles amd still burning oil, the only thing I noticed is a bit lost of power but it runs great and I just add about half a quarter every 2,000 miles or so. I’m pretty sure that the problem is piston rings but it can hold a bit more for now. Good videos keep doing it.
Looking forward to the next video.
Good run up it seems you could calculate that amount of oil used per cylinder. You might need a data logger to keep it from being to much of a pain keeping track of a bunch of data points. Buy Rpm x X = mph then divide by 4. 🎉
I want more.... Keep doing videos!!!!!
My social economic status only allows me to buy high mileage used cars. I have wanted to buy a Toyota Camry 4- cylinder with a standard transmission. I am aware of the oil burning reputation of the Toyota 4-cylinder engine. Your comprehensive testing procedure has provided me with some very valuable information. I am tempted to buy the 6-cylinder model now, but the 4- cylinder would be better for me. I watch all your videos and they are really great. I have some mechanical skills, but the total overhaul of an engine is beyond my skill level. I have done head gaskets with no problems. For me to buy a used Toyota Camry with oil burning problems, requiring me to buy a new engine would sink me financially. So, I am very interested in what you are doing to find a solution to the high consumption of oil by the 4-cylinder Toyota made engine. Thank you for all your work.
6-cylinder typically has transmission issues especially if it hasn't been replaced the first time.
AT205 is for restoring seals. you already replace your valve stem seals. I had leaky valve stem seals on my T corolla 2000, and it helps. Maybe the problem is some other seal, on high speed, when oil pressure is higher it leaks, then it'll help.
Bro the information is great keep it up 😊
Much appreciated 🙂🙂
Hey Dave, good series of vids, thought I saw a crack in the weld on top right intake hole. On the weld. Might want to look at that. If that's a crack, vacuum leak. Valve cover gasket may need replacement. I have to replace about every couple years on my daughters Toyota. Enjoy your holidays. Good day sir
Thanks, Mike. I'll have to take another look at that. Merry Christmas!
Thank you 🫡🤙🏾I enjoy watching your car videos
Much appreciated!
So, I was also burning a LOT of oil in my 187k mile 350 chevy. It was more based on runtime than mileage, so approximately every 3 hours I would burn a quart of oil. Whether it's only 50 miles or 300 miles, 3 hours of runtime would run it from the top of the full to the bottom of the full. Back when it leaked a lot, it would also leak enough after sitting from all that excess pressure to drop below the bottom of the full spot of the dipstick. Used blue devil rear main seal stop leak and it slowed it considerably, but I noticed by patterns that the leak is probably less to do with the rear main seal failing and more to do with a lot of excess pressure in the crankcase. I decided to throw a hail mary at it and use liquimoly engine flush. Ran it 15 minutes instead of 10, otherwise following the instructions, gave it a few revs towards the end just to make sure it was being pushed everywhere with as much pressure as possible. Then I changed the oil, but used a cheaper filter and some supertech synthetic (just using the cheapest stuff possible cause of budget limitations), ran it for 15 more minutes, gave it a few revs towards the end. Then I did a normal oil change, used my normal oil and a high quality filter, added some engine restorer (the copper, silver, lead mix that can be had for relatively cheap). When I tell you that my oil consumption has essentially dropped to nil, I mean it. I overfilled my oil a touch above the top full hash as a precautionary measure, as one who routinely deals with leaks and burning issues might do, and it hasn't even come down to the top of the full mark after roughly 500 miles and SEVERAL heat cycles and driving conditions. I've beat on the car, sent it to 5400 rpm, done several burnouts. Still refuses to lose any oil level. Stopped the leak too. If you wanna give it a shot, I'd definitely recommend trying my method.
Thanks for the suggestion!
Had the same issue on an ‘07 RAV4 until Toyota replaced the pistons and rings covered under the TSB. Prior to this I was using 15W-50 synthetic (recommended by local repair shop), and that had a decent effect on lowering the oil consumption.
I have an old 08 Rav4. It consumes oil. Do you think dealership will solve the issue by replacing pistons and rings the way they did to yours? Thank you in advance.
@@gnaneshwarrao174 check with a Toyota dealership. If it qualifies, the first step in the process is they will set you up to do a consumption test.
@ 27:18 The oil is seeping in from the bottom of the spark plug well, not the upper part that has seals normally replaced with a valve cover gasket set. Spark plug tubes are pressed into the cylinder head and sealed with an anaerobic penetrating liquid. That type is known as non-removable and calls for a head replacement but I've had good results with a low viscosity green threadlocker that wicks in. YT has a video where a guy pulled a vacuum to suck it in. I’ve read that some vehicles use threaded tubes. I’ve seen tubes filled with oil and even witnessed the oil seeping in by merely blowing air across the tube but your seepage is very minor and you’re right, the plug seal stops the oil from entering...until the plug is removed.
Dear Dave,
Wishing you and your family Happy and Prosperous 2023 and many more to come. Please stay safe
Thank you! The same to you and yours!
@ 18:50 That's the fresh air side. Air goes FROM the induction system to the crankcase to help push combustion vapors out thru the PCV valve.
After replacing the rings and unblocking the oil drain holes on my Celica (7AFE) it hasn't used a drop of oil. 1,300mls now. The problem seemed to be the drain holes.
Dave - I have been wondering about Scotty's product for a while. This is going to get good!!! I am anxious to see how it works.
Me too! Enthusiasm appreciated!
I’m really enjoying this series.
Thanks!
I have a 2007 Tacoma 2.7 liter 2trfe. It was consuming a quart every 250-300 miles. I did the berrymans piston soak at 292,041. I followed every step in your video. I did an oil change with 0w20 quaker state oil. I checked the oil every 300 miles. By the time I drove 925 miles, the motor had burned about half a quart. I was was elated by this. I decided that I would drive to New Mexico from Houston by way of Dallas. I did an oil change at 293,286 and used Royal purple 5w20. (Figured that the detergent quality of Royal purple couldn't hurt for such a long trip) I drove 925 miles at an average speed of 70mph but up to 85mph for long stretches. I checked the oil level when I arrived to New Mexico. It was completely full. No consumption. I drove back to Houston using the same route. After a little over 1900 miles the dip stick still reads full...... Thoughts?
Sounds like you totally fixed your problem, Christopher! Good info. -- maybe I should think about switching oil now :-) Thanks for posting!!
If it was my car I would do a BG engine flush. It's a 2 part flush and It's expensive, about 300.00 for the kit but it really cleans engines well.
Hello, I’ve watched this on and off for some time now. One thing I will say that has helped me with my Toyota I would recommend is put 60ml of sea foam and free up the rings. Oil will not return to engine and will consume because of ring design
When you were having a hard time starting it after the first treatment the engine really sounded like it had a cylinder down on compression. Could possibly be a bad head gasket.
Regarding the idea that leaking spark plug tube o-ring oil can get past the spark plugs; umm no. The cylinder pressure according to your compression test is about 200PSI (almost 14 times atmospheric pressure), and the oil has to just use 1 times atmospheric pressure, gravity, and capillary action to sneak past the spark plug crush washer, then a labyrinth of interference fit threads down the spark plug. Not a chance. If there was a path for the oil to get past the spark plug threads, you'd have compressed air/fuel mixture going the other way much more readily (14 times the pressure). And then the explosion happens, now your cylinder pressure is more like 300PSI (20 BAR) at light load and 1000PSI (67 BAR (67 times atmospheric pressure)). You'd hear the leak, just before the plugs got spit out of the head. No. Not going to happen.
It looks like cylinder 3 is the issue. It's not too far off from the others, but definitely has signs of oil burning in it. Hopefully, one of these other treatments can free everything up. Otherwise, it looks like it's one of the seals in piston 3 that is allowing the oil to slip by, and would need replaced. They cylinder walls on all of them look mostly fine, almost mirror-like finish. A light hone, and a ring job would probably fix most of the burning problems. I'm surprised by how clean that intake was. Toyotas never cease to amaze me. Our family has two vehicles with 1MZ-FE engines, and they are still solid after 187k on one, and 240k on the other. My daughter's needed an alternator replaced around 238k (was my old car). It was the factory unit from 1999. Mind boggling sometimes. Very little work needed on them over the years. Mine just recently needed a new thermostat because it was running too cold. I think my catalytic converters are getting clogged though, because my mileage is nowhere near where it should be. I'm getting around 12-13, when I should be getting around 17. I get around 23 on the highway though. It doesn't like city driving apparently.
Switch to 10w30 and Lucas oil stabilizer. It pretty much stopped my oil consumption in the Spyder.
Looking forward to that video Dave,im a huge fan Of Scotty
👍👍
I think its got to be that #3 cylinder. Like you said, compression test does not measure the effectiveness of the oil ring, but in a cylinder were the oil ring is stuck, it is stands to reason that the compression rings also have a high possibility of being gummed up and thus having lower compression readings. So given the visual difference of cylinder #3 along with the lower compression reading, I would bet thats the issue.
Also, very informative with the speed test. Something that makes complete sense in theory and I've observed anecdotally on my engine but didn't have the patience to test definitively. Another great video in this series.
I think you're right. Thanks for the comment!
Have you tried any BG products like their EPR or maybe their complete engine oil and flush?
Trying a Berryman soak on my 1zz MR2, put about 3oz per cylinder and it all leaks down in about 5 hours, not days like in the video. Did a compression test and it's not bad. Should I try thickening it up with some 5w30?
Use high detergent engine flush (not kerosen based)
Just pour it in and drive for 40 miles at max 2000rpm
And replace the oil and filter
The one i used is a south korean brand
Bullsone engine flush
Also, I took Scotties advice and tried that cro I’m older Camry w/o much change. However I did try it on another Camry with less miles and had success. I think the key is repeated tries over several oil changes and using. At least 5w30 high mileage oil.
Thanks for sharing, Steve!
Dave, I really appreciate your videos. I’ve been along for the whole ride as I’m dealing with the same issue. I definitely have more consumption at interstate speeds which I believe is exacerbated by the unfortunate 3 speed at. I’m at nearly 3k rpm at 65mph. BTW I’m also in Nashville so if you ever want to race. 😂
👍😄
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Dave much oil as your going through i would go ahead and give engine restore a shot can’t hurt much oil as your burning if it means saving a car you love to drive and saves you an engine rebuild your talking about a 9 dollar can opposed to a 1500 dollar rebuild you’ve done enough Berrymans treatment if the rings were stuck they shouldn’t be now you gotta be careful putting that stuff in your oil to cause remember it’s a cleaner and to much could damage or spin a bearing not saying it will but it can cause your using 5w30 that makes your oil almost a zero weight with the berrymans it’s not good for it to keep putting it in your oil I did as directed on the can in one of my engines and I’m saying this from experience it was smoking so I was like ok I’m gonna try this berrymans in the oil had zero issues before the berrymans and in a short period of time I was driving and I heard this knocking and squeaking and it spun 2 or three bearings it’s a cleaner not a lubricant just trying to help you Dave not telling you what to do just telling you my experience and I followed directions to a t if your cleaning the rings it’s cleaning gunk out right well imagine the bearings being washed cause it’s a cleaner I’d hate to see the same thing that happened to me happen to you just use a good synthetic oil and restore the synthetic oil will eat the sludge and crud out may take time but synthetic oil is the best way to clean up an engine good luck with your experiment wishing you the best peace for now
The thing is, we're trying to fix the problems of the stuck rings and clogged drain-back holes, and restore works by sealing gaps around the pistons. Correct me if I'm wrong, but though it might help with the oil consumption, I don't think it'll help with the piston-ring freeing.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY you are correct Dave the berrymans could damage your bearings to much if used to if it’s cleaning your engine it’s washing the oil out of your bearings to like I said I had a bad experience putting that berrymans in the oil yes you are correct restore may solve your issue as much berrymans as you’ve ran I’d think the rings would be clean much oil as you’ve gone through good grief bro that’s a lot of oil and berrymans
Dave, something you might consider. I have a Jeep with a four cylinder engine. If I use synthetic oil it will use 1 1/2 quarts of oil in 1000 miles. I switched to conventional oil not synthetic. I can drive 3 to 4 thousands miles before oil changes with it still being on the full mark. Higher milage engines do not do well with synthetic oils. Don't ask me why this happens because I don't really know but a fact at least in my case.
How much oil is vaporizing under high engine heat conditions? And ya, I guess the oil rings or parts of them could still be gummed up and stuck, so more chemical treatment tests would be kind of interesting to see if it might work instead of piston ring removal and cleaning and drilling in some more oil drain holes behind the ring; but I doubt any chemical would work - hard to soak rings in and engine too, and even then it still likely wouldn't free them up on a soak.
If its a quart and a quarter oil burning 1.25÷4 is 0.3125 based on the compression it would make sense with the mileage and loss of oil in the distance so I think there's room for improvement just treating that cylinder could have been so bad it didn't allow chemical to work its way through great videos thank you keep them rolling
I totally agree with your methods and I would like to see you continue your experiment with the use of synthetic ETF in the fuel system, the ratio of 8 ounces to a full tank of gas. I also believe that your appraisal of not using oil in for mile trips is relying upon the front number of the viscosity of the oil, whereby the viscosity of your oil and speed would likely be the second number in the viscosity 0W-20
Meant to say Synthetic ATF mixed in the fuel tank.
5W-30 viscosity noted. The longer drives have the warm oil rating of 30 weight which Is a higher viscosity than the 10W rating when the engine starts up cold.
To DIY Dave, here’s a thought I’ve had which I have run by a couple of mechanics and ia parts store manager. I would try draining the oil sump and then connecting the threads of the oil sump to an air compressor. I would i
pressurize the sump 5 to 10 psi while at the same time keeping the spark plugs in place, and the valve covers on. I would then remove the spark plugs, one or the time and add a few ounces of the Chem-trol B 12 to each cylinder. Then I would pull the ignition coil so that the engine would not start. Then manually rotate the crankshaft five times, allowing the B12 to penetrate down the walls of the Pistons in order to free up the oil ring on the bottom using the 5 to 10 psi from the lower end via the sump. I would then remove the air compressor fitting from the drain sump and refill the engine with the original oil and attempt to start the engine with the addition of 3 to 4 ounces of 30% white vinegar in each cylinder. if there’s any method that would work to free up the stuck oil ring I believe this is it and other people referred to this when I talked to them as calling it priming the engine. Once again I fully agree with your previous methods and feel that cylinder #3 is stubborn and /or has the Weakest/ most Worn rings. Please advise what you think of this method. Thanks for posting the experiment it will certainly benefit hundreds of viewers.
If you want to test the shape of the oil pan theory, try this:
Do a controlled drainage of 16 ounces at a time. Loosen the drain plug and just let it trickle.
Pull the dipstick, let it sit for 5 minutes, insert and check the dipstick.
To measure how it goes on the dipstick, print out a grid and use packing tape to protect it so that you can measure where on the grid each 16 oz increment goes.
If he's into this, I think there are "spigot" style drain plugs for oil pans. IIRC the Honda guys used a brand called "Fumoto". A google search of "Fumoto Oil Drain Valve", should lead to more info about them / other brands & applications for anyone interested. I've never used them.
Liqui moly anti-friction after adding this to a fresh oil change definitely helped for highway use i have noticed an increase milage and little oil consumption. Although I have tried BG epr and didn't notice a change before berrymans test. But looking forward to seeing the 505 CRO treatment
I think Dave is not using liquid moly or any compression fixer because the goal is to free up the sticky rings
Does solving the problem permanently
A compression additive is needed every oil change
Yup I'm dealing with the same issue hints my advice
Provent 200 is supposed to be a great oil catch can/oil separator. Depending how you want to run it.
Also nice results from Berryman. Guessing one would have to run a can every other fuel up to keep the rings from sticking.
One other thing kinda related, cummins had a TSB for the isx15 with ring sticking and recommended using Valvoline premium blue oil for several oil changes to unstuck the rings and carbon buildup before they updated to carbon scraper liners. My guess is a premium oil would do wonders compared to a conventional oil causing excessive carbon buildup in the rings.
Does Valvoline still make restore?
@@danfecke
YES.
Restore is the closest thing to "a mechanic in a can". I've seen it work "miracles". 👍
@@hotrodray6802 🤙#Restorer in the Can works great it’s amazing brought up cylinders compression 7-12 PSI in my 110,000 989 5.0 and 160,000 1998 F-150 I use the 8 cylinder #Restorer Can in 6 cylinder also 4 cylinder engines . Also you #MMO at every fill up seen 5-7 mpg great also add to oil 300 miles than dump. Also I did engine flush with #motorflush with new oil and filter than put on #GoldFilter #K&N #RoyalPurple. What do you recommend to use ?
Valve Cover Gasket is needed. Looks exactly like my BMW symptoms and ongoing issues. Can't wait to B-12 the spark plug holes...#e46DinanTouringX->
Dave I've always thought that it seemed like there was an increase in the oil consumption with high speed (Interstate) driving with my 1ZZ-FE engine. It's nice to see the results of your study confirming that. I'm at 4,800 miles since I did the EPR flush on my engine and it's used between 2.25 & 2.5 quarts. If my math is right that's roughly 1 quart every 2,000 miles, improved from 1 quart every 1,200 before EPR. I'm excited to see what kind of results you get with the 505 CRF.
Sounds like EPR works pretty good as well!
What's the earliest flush? I missed a flush episode
I think engine restore will help you that product seals between cylinder and the piston rings oil is possibly getting by your rings to the spark plug
Can you try DMSO, it should work best for carbon clogged rings
I’m curious if oil catch can or the throttle body/PCValve is stuck open causing the oil burning
NOICE!! Excellent work. Oh, come on cr505. I'm rooting for ya.
As an engineer that works on a fixes industrial machine I will share my diagnostic procedure.
Step 1: admit you do not understand or know ever variable
Step 2: learn and discover every issue possible
Step 3: fix all issues that were previously discover (large and small)
Step 4: run the machine and assess the situation
Step 5: repeat steps 1 through 4 until the issues are resolved
No one will ever pay you to diagnose an issue. You get paid to fix issues.
The large vent hose to the valve cover is the breather for the PCV system. As engine vacuum acts on the crankcase that vent is responsible for clean air being circulated back into the crankcase.
no...the vent is to cause oil vapor to be sucked into the intake to burn it
@@ssnerd583 that is what the PCV valve is for. The vent allows fresh air in to displace the being drawn into the engine from the PCV.
@@Mr34blazer ....sorry, NO. NOT
there is NO 'fresh air' being introduced into the engine other than through the intake. the PCV valve is a ONE WAY(usually) ball valve that lets the engine suck the oil vapors out of the crank case....which is usually under some pressure due to the pumping action of the pistons to a greater or lesser degree depending upon the engine architecture/design. THE PCV SYSTEM IS IN NO WAY ON THIS PLANET USED TO 'ALLOW FRESH AIR TO BE DRAWN INTO THE ENGINE'
You are operating under a false pretense, here.
I am 61yo and did my first engine swap in 1979 and became an FAA licenses A&P mechanic in 1983 and haven't put the tools down since, and I KNOW what the PCV system does, and it has NOTHING to do with 'fresh air' anything.
@@ssnerd583 fresh FILTERED air as required. EPA has regulated the PCV system to use engine vacuum to pull vapors from the crankcase since before we picked up a wrench. There needs to be a vent to allow fresh air in to replace the air removed by the PCV, and if you can't understand what I meant by fresh then I can't help you there. Not going to argue semantics. Not all manufacturers used filtered air, some used a breather with some sort of media and others just plumbed the vent near a source of fresh air, pre filter.
@@ssnerd583 if you go back and watch the video and reread my comment AGAIN, you will see that the description I offered is, in fact, accurate. There is no PCV valve in the larger tube from the valve cover the FILTER SIDE of the throttle body, that is the one in question and that is the one the creator was asking about. 30 seconds prior he mentioned the PCV valve that was plumbed to the manifold side of the throttle.
I have a 2014 2.5l camry,that used to burn about a quart and a half between 5000 mile oil changes! I put new hose and pcv valve on,and no more additional oil between changes. Toyota recommends changing every 30000 miles(I think)it's seems excessive. Also it's a pain in the...on my camry to get to.Just my 2 cents..
I keep thinking ultrasonic probe, if you could somehow fit something in the plug hole to vibrate the cleaning solution… that’d be minty!
That come with probe version? I didn't know it. I fmailer with U- cleaner.
What are the alternatives for Berryman b12 outside the US?
Try Liqui Moly Sludge Remover..you drive it circulating in the engine for about 120miles.
Just watched a guy do a test on a stuck piston soaking it in white vinegar. It freed up the rings and cleaned the piston amazingly. Not sure how that would be done in your situation but it sure was interesting how well it worked.
I think I watched that. Uncle Tony's Garage?? If that's the video, he said it worked because the rings were stuck with rust (which vinegar dissolves) and that it probably wouldn't work on carbon stuck rings. ... I was seriously considering trying vinegar after watching the video for the first time -- because I didn't catch his rust vs. carbon comment. ... Though I guess it's still possible. I don't know that anyone has tried it on carbon yet. 🤔
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I have heard that vinegar is dangerous because it has a lot of water in it and such.
Better check that one carefully. I have seen vinegar videos too but only for external soaks
Great videos, love the data. I’m assuming since you’re driving at interstate speeds your RPM’s are constantly high around the 3,000 range which causes more repetitions on the engine which causes more wear which causes more oil consumption. I wonder if the fact that you had a full load on the car with three passengers (5 including cat and dog) makes a difference. I’m curious to know if there would be a difference if you drove on the interstate with just the driver (less load) in the car. Thanks for the videos and shout out to your wife and daughter for being good sports and supporting your videos. Thanks
Thanks. A lot of good points too, Edgar.👍👍
One thing that I've noticed is.... Oil temperature. Oil expands roughly 8% volume from 65* f to 200* f. It takes LOTS of driving to get oil to 200*. City driving won't do it even in the summer.
At 65* ambient my 4.6 V8 Ford car oil temp does not get more than 150* in 20 miles of 45-55 mph driving. Actual test.
Consider that hotter oil has thinner actual viscosity and might be consumed at a more rapid rate.
Those spark plugs look real white. Might consider hooking up a bluetooth odb2 reader and check your trims, o2s, maf mgs.
A whole other experience!:) Thanks Dave for your effort. Gives me hope.
Pretty sure the Corolla is built in Canada.
My 02 Celica is Japan built. Same engine otherwise.
Burns oil bad. About quart every 50 to 100 miles. Basically junk of not fixed.
I tried one barrymans after your video and it did seem to help. Just not much. Maybe a quart every 125 -150 miles.
I'll do it again later. I didn't follow the instructions too well and a lot of fluid shot out the cylinder when manually cranking. I forgot about that. I can't easily get to the crank from the top soi had to get on the ground.
I am wishing I burnt a quart in 300 miles.
From what I have read it's not uncommon for the Celica to burn that much oil.
I'm guessing the Japan rings are different.
When you take the air duct hose off I cringe because of it doesn't go back on correctly it can really mess up the trims and I'd say your trims are messed up.
Id wager it thinks there is too much air when there isn't and it's dumping fuel to compensate. Oil burning screws it up too. Oil burning sucks
@@johnkelly4381 I would think the Barrymans treatment would have cleaned the plugs. Although it could have been the barrymans that caused that. I noticed that's my trims went down when doing the 20 minute drive. I also got misfire codes on all cylinders.
I checked out the trims a few videos back ... I think it was the catalytic converter video-- of course they might have changed since then.
On about all cars, the engine drives the oil pump. Continuing driving at 2500-3000rpm throws a lot of oil around the engine.
I want share my experience. The car is a Renault 1 liter engine 3 cilindros with 240.000 km /1.6 = 160.000 miles. I did last month a 3500 km trip that was too speed in that roads to inside Brazil , and the car start to consume oil pretty fast. When I change the oil I added a 3 fase Xado product. It is to use each 100.000 km. And suddenly the engine stopped to desappearing oil.. I use the synthetic 5w30 elf. When the car had 140.000 km I used one bottle of this product with the oil and it has been doing a good work.
XADO treatment 3 fase 1 fase to treat the metal as a militec. Another fase you see little rose spheres that is ceramic to fill the risks inside and the third fase is the slide to get the soft and smooth slide.
I’m also curious if or would it burn oil just idling the same hrs it would take for miles ya know 60-65 miles for every hr of idle time! Of course you would wanna do this text in N
You're within 10 percent between compression so thats actually not bad but granted not ideal to be down on 1 cylinder. Those plugs and cylinders look night and day difference. Mine looked white from burning oil when i started flushing, the same as yours do now. So far my plugs now look healthy and no longer have burnt oil deposits. Im still fixing on mine and putting miles on it. Ive done my water pump, oil filter housing o rings, oil cooler o rings and a carbon cleaning because its direct injection. I have to say im very happy so far, the cylinders are spotless and i agree that highways miles uses more oil. If i had to say (knock on wood) im burning a quart every 1000 miles also. I still consider it a win and think it will get better as i maintain the car. I keep using products long term in the oil, as i said before i use marvel mystery oil at 20% between oil changes. Im sure this has helped a lot of people if they have followed you. Thanks man, and i also suggest bgs epr
Berryman is one of my favorites. MMO, CSL Restore, Seafoam, and a few others have proven themselves and earn a regular spot on my shelves in the garage. Another one I like and think could help you is Rislone engine treatment. Have you tried that yet on this engine?
That’s exactly what i was pointing out buddy he has nothing to loose trying a can of engine restore even if he has to add it every oil change if it works he saved a car he loves and 1500 or more on an engine rebuild or another engine swap in
I’ve had great success with engine restore heck even though it’s a four cylinder engine he could safely put an 8 cylinder can in I’ve done it before it’s not gonna hurt it most likely help it I stand behind engine restore and the other products you mentioned as well sounds like Dave has a worn engine from the videos because compression being here and there on different cylinder 2 consistent two not consistent I believe the engine restore after he put it in runs it drives it for a while he will see some huge improvements of course it’s going to burn some of it at first though cause it has to go through them scratches to fill them in if he uses it and his compression is the same on all cylinders issue solved I’m saying it’s a ring issue would be my best suggestion from the data we’ve observed
Project farm made a video on his ford tractor that wouldn’t start and he put engine restore in it and still today no oil burning and runs like a champ I suggested he try engine restore and he did and issue solved even though he has to add it every oil change
I'd really really enjoy seeing you try a product called BG EPR. this is an engine flush that is extremely powerful, and targets oil consumption caused by piston ring buildup.
Thanks ... definitely on my list ... if something else doesn't work first.
Bought this yesterday for my D16 ZC Honda engine
Try Berryman Chem Dip stop my oil burning in Pontiac vibe gt 2.4
Hello again. Today i checked my oil level on my 99 Rolla and found out that mine is burning that 1 1/4 quarts in 1856 miles. I poured a quart of Marvel Mystery oil and 1/4 of quart of synthetic oil to top it off. I changed the oil at 215k miles. Mine is Automatic BTW. 216786 miles right now. Just wanted to let you know how my is performing vs others. This is the second treatment of Marvel oil i pored in it. The first was 2.5 years ago. And 28k miles ago. mixed driving , 10 to work at about 50 -55 mph and some city at lower speeds and some freeway miles when i go see mom.
I've always found that high revs/speed so highway driving definitely increased for my car at least. These little engines get very hot when driven long and or hard edit probably why our oil always looks kinda dirty and burnt on the dip stick after not a very long period, though it could be bits of burned oil falling back into the pan and being circulated. 🤔
As always a good video Dave Thanks!
Oh can I grab the part number for your denso iridium spark plugs for the 1zz-fe I asked my local Toyota dealer for the proper ones for my model by vin and they gave me denso but they were just normal ones not iridium and I want the ones you have please 😊
Thanks. 😊 The plugs are 90080-91184 SK16R11. They’re in the valve stem oil seal replacement video. To be honest, I think the old copper NGKs that I pulled out were more reliable… though I usually like Denso parts.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY interesting, well if that's the case maybe I'll stick with what I got because iridium ones are super expensive by comparison here in Australia but probably most places. I'd be pretty annoyed if forked out almost 20 Australian dollars a pop for then and then felt the same as you. 😂 I know I had seen them in one of your videos and you gave the number but I couldn't remember which one thanks for saving the hassle and you might have saved me some money too just reading your comment 😉
@@chloeleedow7250 My pleasure. Thanks again for all your comments!
Put conventional petroleum based oil in it and just see where it is after 300 miles. Fixed my oil burning problem.
So …. You burn more oil at higher rpms not necessarily mileage. My Camry doe the same; in town lesss and freeway higher amount burned. Great videos btw!
A leak down tester gives you more useful information than a pressure test. It will let you know if it’s the rings, valves or others.
Did that in a previous video, Texaspowerman. Narrowed it down to the rings, now trying to narrow to specific cylinder(s). ...BTW Thanks again for the ATS. Started the experiment today! I couldn't believe the smell!
No oil draining down past plugs into cylinder.
Try this! Just fill the engine with diesel fuel, pour it into the oil fill until it reaches the top heads, making sure the pistons are soaked in the fuel. Let it sit for a day or two. Then I bet you those rings will be like brand new. Dont crank or turn over the engine, then just drain the fuel and add oil/filter.
Love my city!
Had the same results with my 2009 Camry. Based on a comment in the comments, I might try another doing another soak with B12 and seafoam combo. It would be nice to get oil consumption up to 3k a quart.
It would be interesting to do a soak only on cylinder 3.
Hey run white vinegar in your engine see if it will help get the piston rings unstuck.
The pre throttle blade hose is for filtered air going into the engine. The post blade hose is air coming out due to the vacuum behind the blade. It evacuates any unburned hydrocarbons from the crankcase into the combustion chambers. A bad PVV valve can allow too much or not enough flow. Too much will allow oil to be sucked in. Not enough flow can damage seals from too much crankcase pressure.
As a side, I would like to see you test a can of “Engine Restore”. Ive tried it and it seemed to help on an old 305 chevy of mine.
Thanks for the suggestions ... I know a lot of folks want me to try Restore, so it must be good.
i have been researching a bit on how rings and oil return holes are supposed to work.
What was puzzling me is how is a cleaning agent get into a stuck ring to clean it.
Some say that the cleaning agent cant be done top down because the cleaner cant get to the rings. But looking at how piston rings work it should be able to.
What got me thinking here is that on my cylinder 4 the fluid was not draining the same as the other cylinders. the fluid stayed deep over the piston for many hours. It was also my worst looking cylinder. oil wise but i could see no scorch marks on the cylinder. cross hatching looked ok. If the cylinder had a score spot then the fluid should drip though that. Why wasnt it going down. it should. my guess is that the ring gaps were clogged.
this is my take from all the learning i did about rings an 1zzfe pistons.
the piston rings have gaps and its substantial. well enough space for a liquid to go though at least slowly. Those gaps are placed around the piston in a particular way on the 1zzfe.
the front of the engine is where the belts,, pullys, and such are located. there is a dot on the top of the piston that should face that way. so if looking at the engine standing in from of the belts and such the left of the engine faces the rear of the car.
according to the toyota spec and some rebuild videos i watched, top compression ring is to left, back of the car. second compresssion ring is to the back of the engine, drive side wheel.
the oil rings are more complicated because there are three gap. a top and bottom retainer ring and the oil control ring itself but they dont work quire the same way.
compression gasses are supposed to go through these gaps and get behind the compression rings and push them against the cylinder wall.
if the rings are gummed up and the compression gass cant get behind the ring it wont have good compression.
the oil return rings behave in a similar manner where the internal engine pressure is suppose to push the ring against the wall through those holes. I dont know exactly how that works. in that the holes are supposed to push against the rings and allow oil to escape through them? Maybe during the various strokes. Like in power stroke the back pressure increases and during exhaust and intake its reduced. So i guess acts like a pump.
if the oil ring is gummed up and the oil return holes are clogged how does the fluid reach them in a top down manner? I assume it goes through the compression ring gaps.
as the engine is normally at a slight tilt toward the back of the car and so is the top ring gap, it would drain through that hole. possibly fill it up and then drain out the 2nd ring gap facing the driver side wheel. Then gravity would drain it allong the back of the piston. In your videos that is where the gunk piled up after manually moving the crank.
so i have a feeling that when doing a top down treatment it may be important to position the engine so tha the fluid gets a better spread. It might be important have the car at an angle so that driver side wheel is at the highest point. That i guess would make the fluid fill the gap between 1st and 2nd ring and then come out of the 2nd ring gap if there was enough of it. gravity would then drip the fluid more completely around the piston along with seepage through the second ring all around.
Thats just my hairbrained idea after researching. it likely doesnt matter where the gap is as maybe there is enough space between ring and cylinder that it just ignores the gap. My cylinder 4 says different but... maybe there was something else making is seal in the fluid. residual oil sealing the rings or something.
Man, you are chocked full of insightful observations and theories!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I uh..
A. Try to explain as I understand to try and make sure my understanding is correct.
B. I don't want to use 1quart every 100 miles. Lol. And I like this car and don't want to have to put another 5 grand for an engine into it. You know. Lol.
I'm so thrilled that you had some success. Lots of poor 00-02 engine users have this issue.
See it all the time in the Celica forums. So much so people have made joke videos on it. I'll post one for you
could be valve seals on a run oil stays at top longer
There's a new oil I want to try which is supposed to be specifically made for sticking piston rings.
It's called restore and protect by Valvoline.
I think I'm going to give that a shot.
I'm intrigued by that as well. Please let us know how it goes!