Duffle Coat Guide - How To Wear A Duffel - The Best Overcoat For Relaxed Men - Gentleman's Gazette
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- Looking for the perfect duffle coat? This guide is for you: gentl.mn/all-about-the-duffle...
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Today, duffle coats are popular again because they're warm, they're hard wearing and they’re more casual than other items in classic menswear especially overcoats, partially because of the hood, but also because of the toggle closure.
So how is the duffle coat distinguished from other coats and what makes a duffle coat a duffle?
First of all, it's the fabric. It's a heavy 34 ounce boiled woolen cloth in a camel or khaki color. It's about a 1050 grams per meter, it’s usually double-faced and has some form of a twill structure which is similar to Serge.
Two, an authentic duffle coat needs a toggle closure. Originally, that was made out of hemp rope, as well as wooden toggles.
The third hallmark of a duffle is the throat latch. It's supposed to help you close up your neck and protect you from the elements.
Four, an original duffle has shoulder pads. they were reinforcing, kept you warmer, and protected better from the elements.
Five, the duffle coat needs patch pockets that are roomy and comfortable.
Last but not least, the original duffle coat did not have a lining because it was a double faced clot that was very heavy already.
How should you wear it and how is it combined?
Traditionally, a duffle coat was worn on top of uniforms, that meant it was cut roomier if you look at older pictures, you can also see there's lots of excess fabric in a duffle coat, because of that, duffle coats today are cut still wider than maybe other outer garments you own. Of course, that's reflected in the sizing. In this day and age, overcoats are worn a lot slimmer than it used to be even if you wear maybe a suit underneath of it or a sweater and because of that, I urge you to always go down in size or double check on the measurements before you buy something. If you're a purist and you want the original roomy cut, go for it. Because it's more casual in nature, you don’t need to wear it with a tweed coat but I like it a lot with just a sweater. Of course, a cardigan would work as well. It actually pairs really well with denim jeans, with corduroy, with chinos, maybe even woolen slacks.
So what about duffle coat colors?
The classic one are the camel and khaki shades, or maybe some shades of brown such as the one I'm wearing here right now, they are easy to combine with all kinds of camel colors for winter colors such as green, maybe dark Burgundy, and if that's your style, it's the ideal color. Personally, I’d stay clear of black duffle coats simply because black is one of the most overrated color in menswear. Alternatively, I would go with a charcoal gray which just suits it much better.
So what about the length?
Originally, the months or duffle coats were quite long because they were supposed to keep you warm on a ship in a rough sea. Today, most duffle coats are about knee long and you can also find some that are shorter.
So where and how should you buy duffle coats?
I think there is a brand out there called Monty and it sells the original Montgomery, priced around $300. I don’t think it's of the highest quality, I think Gloverall offers some but they’re all so different, their material composition is usually polyamide 20%, and wool 80%. I personally love to find 100% wool duffle coat which is very difficult. In terms of brands, you can find them from Brooks Brothers or places like Lodenfrey in Germany. Also, good duffle coat is Ladage and Oelke in Hamburg.
#dufflecoat #menscoats #notsponsored
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Found a original British Navy Dufflecoat in my local thrift shop yesterday. An absolute steal at just €17,50 🤩. While it may seem strange to wear a duffle in the dessert (like Sterling did), the nights out there can be brutally cold.
Absolutly love Gloverall! Really recommend them!
My dad used to wear one often in winter.
I wore it after he Died,and liked it.
My Dad worked for Airline ,traveled the World ,and had a big affection with Clothing.
For example,during the Cold War he travel to Poland ,Buy Leather ,and had a Jacket Handmade .
Just bought me a nice Duffel.
A Gloverall collab with Comme des Garçons.
Amazing Style Coat,I love it.
If U Buy a Duffel,also buy a nice Peacoat !
ThX for Documenting the Duffle Coat.
Dear sir, last year i wanted to buy the Portland Monty model @gloverall but it wasn't available ; but now it is ... and not so expensive for a long term coat... A special fabric in textured wool, very interesting! Regards.
Gloverall all the way 🇬🇧🏴
Not really related to the video, but my grandfather knew, and fought under, Monty in ww2
I'm a woman, but I'm totally into your channel. I've learned a lot about the quality of fabrics and garment construction.
I'm a man.
Now we have that out of the way, we always welcome and appreciate comments and the will to be educated from the opposite sex. Yes, all people will find themselves watching videos out of their boundaries, it just makes for education whether you want it to be, or not.
Thanks for such an in depth guide. Really Love the history behind it, definitely gonna pick one up now.
One of my favorite coats, thanks you so much for doing this video @gentleman’s Gazette
I had a black Duffel 54 years ago, they cost nothing then, just a working class coat. I’m astonished they cost a fortune now. I’m saving in my piggy bank, gotta have a replacement, brilliant coat.
I scored a nice Gloverall off of eBay. Nice coat, good condition, and great savings over purchasing new. Took it to my local cleaners and it looks good as new.
after my 30 something years old dark camel disappeared from a restaurant rack the previous year, i've found a regular camel Gloverall Alexander in the right size last Autumn at a flea market for 5€, sadly (😸) not 100% wool but a vile 55% wool, 40% acrylic and 5% polyester mix... used it since with only a wool t-shirt or cotton shirt underneath this Winter and for all the Spring heavy rainy days as well as the drizzly ones and, well, it's been quite nice and comfy. hoping to find another one for the same price this year in a more wholly woolly fabric. 😼👌
Wow! this video really takes me back down memory lane back to my high days many, many years ago more than I care to remember but at that time I own a duffel coat in navy as well as many of my classmates back then we all thought it was simply a fashion item I doubt if anyone knew the history behind that coat thanks a lot for this video!
Absolutely love your channel. I'm learning a lot about the types of fabrics to look for when I'm making purchases for my wardrobe.
Thank you so much for this video! Because of your knowledge I was able to spot a vintage gloverall in the Monty style and score it for 50 bucks it's my most complimented item right now,feels so good, and is very functional. Thank you.
Love the video, very informative! The duffel coat has always been a favorite of mine dating back to my childhood in the fifties. Polo Ralph Lauren makes a duffel coat that looks like the original worn by the royal navy during WW II. These coats fetch a good price even used on eBay.
Here in the Netherlands we have our own brand of duffel coat, 100% wool and the story goes they are still crafted manually (for way over 50 years). It's named the "Leidse zeeduffel" and it is created by a small company named Biesot in Leiden, the Netherlands.
I have one in dark navy blue. It weighs a ton, but it is very warm and no wind gets through.
simplyhal I found a Duffel coat here in Dublin made by a company called Hareurind and called " Krantz - Duffel " made in Leiden , but I cant find any info about the company on the net.
I never knew about this coat, but I think I have seen it. Thanks for the great video sven
I have a navy peacoat and a navy duffle. Honestly I consider the two of them very different. The peacoat is way dressier while duffle is super casual. Plus for some people that wear raw denim, indigo rub off into clothings is a big concern.
Only just found your channel, brilliant, very informative with lots of useful and important info. Thank you. I've been considering a Duffle coat for done time now, so just ordered my first Gloverall.
Since I watched "Dead poets society" in the early 90s, I love dufflecoats.
This guide is perfect. Thanks a lot.
Love the content brother!
I like how you go into detail of the clothes you do reviews on
Glad you said something about black duffle coats. More for me!!!
I love the picture of you in the Tailcoat. Wear it when you talk about Bodycoats.
love to watch your videos (even as a woman) because of all the extra information :)
I have an Aquascutum in navy blue. Love it
very informative, thank you
I have vintage camel and black duffle coats made by Gloverall and they are amazing!
love a duffel coat. i inherited mine from my old man, so it is older than i am...always look forward to winter so i can get it back out again...i pretty much wear it with everything (its that or a wax jacket most of the time)
😅 I bought a wax jacket yesterday and duffel coat today!
I never thought I would have ever spent 11:24 minutes watching a video about coats and I am sort of glad I did
Watching you in those winter clothes seriously made me forget, that it's almost summer!
i love duffle , black is my all time favourite
have a gloverall tall a great coat i combine with monks and flanel trousers in navy
cheers
great video!!
Thank you for your video. I just received a Ralph Lauren one today and I thought it was too big, but your video explained that they are normally oversized.
I have a blue wool duffle coat and I love it
Yet another fantastic in-depth video on a classic piece of men’s wear. I’ve never considered owning one as the weather here on the west coast isn’t cold enough to warrant one. The slimmer fit coat seem to fit you better as the larger grey coat seems to boxy for my taste. Thanks again for another great video....keep up the good work.
PS. Maybe a video on men’s waxed jackets? Barbour, Filson etc?
Cheers.
I’ve got a black shearling Duffle Coat! I’m happy with it but will go for dark brown or slate next time.
Love the history Raphael. I have one in blue.
Can you please make a video about bags? I want to upgrade from a simple backpack and I would greatly appreciate your advice on the matter.
my respects ! good job with the video !
I love your video, you seem to be a kind person:-) kindly regard Cecilie, Copenhagen:-)
Duffle-coat forever ! Personally: charcoal Gloverall.
In winter I wear my Burberry Monty duffle on a white Stone Island jumper with jeans with some tears on a pair of high top Nike Air force 1s beige color, really works if you want that modern youthful style with a touch of class
great video. Can you make a video about how to buy vintage clothes?
Was just checking out some vintage grails on ebay- but I think theyll be cheaper at flea markets right Sven? As always excellent
content
What about a leather shearling dufflecoat? Would you style it with the same shoes/trousers/jumpers?
Love your content
Great video as usual. You made me dig into the wardrobe, I have a coat given to me by father, to be honest, I never wore it except the very first year it was given, as I prefer more fitted coats. I always thought it had too much room. But hey, you just made me to give it a second chance. By the way, the color is lighter green :D
Thanks for sharing!
I do have a gray Duffle Coat with LEG WIND STRAPS that I paid a small fortune for but I can’t remember the brand name. It’s currently in climate controlled storage for the summer months and I’m on lockdown in New Jersey or I’d go look for your information. If you contact me stating that you’d really like the brand name ill take a look. I purchased it at the Short Hill Mall in Jersey for around 800 hundred about 7 years ago. I love this coat and also for your info at the same time I purchased an original Peacoat from Burberry - Both I love and care for carefully.
I just bought one 🎉
Brooks Brothers now has a 100% wool duffel coat. 🧥 I just bought one used and I’ll let you know how it is once it comes in.
Great channel, I love the way you do the videos and the passion that you put on! What do you thing about the Aquascutum Duffle Coat?
Radomiro Peña
I like them
Not a coat for me but love the history
Mister do you think leather clasic
vans boots are good for gentleman 30 suit
Guess my duffle coat is duffle/peacoat hybrid. Has the overall shape but button closure on top of a zipper closure. It is 100% wool with a cupro/cotton fedora lining. It's black and I love it. Super warm, slim fitting, and goes well with my avant garde style.
what brand? this looks like something i would buy
The Original Montgomery brand is actually extremely nice. I own one in the camel color, and it's a super warm, heavy, coat.
Really enjoyed this guide! I had no idea of the history behind the Duffle coat! Seeing this, I was wondering if you would consider making a video on the classic German Parka jacket? it is a very popular coat in the UK due to the Mod movement in the 1960s, but I understand that this may not fit into the content style of your channel.
Just for fun, I picked up a 100% wool Duffle Coat in our thrift shop. It is in navy blue and is made by Burberry. It cost me less than $4.
Thank you for the video.Have you heard of Burel Duffle???
Make a video about loden! Loden coats and jackets. Around here any thick woolen coat often is called " loden".
Very informative . very well presented devoid of pointless rambling .👍
Are you wearing french cuffs because I saw that coat with French Cuffs and I am wondering if you have another shirt that's the same with barrel cuffs.
Reminds me a lot of my navy pea coat.
Can we get a vintage/dapper dress for outdoors?
What about the parka /anorak it has a hood too? Perhaps they need a video as well.
Is there a difference between mens and women's
BUMP!
Could I ask you for your height plz?
I can't find Gloverall in my country (Greece) and I'm gonna order it online (Classic Mid Length Duffle Coat).
I'm 1.70cm tall and ~67kgr. What size should I choose? (S) or (M)?
I would argue that there are other classic menswear items that have hoods including for example the M-51 parka if not the good old hooded sweatshirt itself.
I have a admiralty duffle coat dated 1944 camel coloured, I think modern duffles are to small traditional coats were worn on the baggy size .
I usually watch you tube videos on my Roku TV, where there is no mechanism for making comments. So you should know that I went out of my way to make this comment.
You often berate the color black by claiming that it is the most overrated color in menswear. You should stop it! Black is a great color for nearly everything, except wallets. It goes well with every other color, and is only ever wrong when one is standing out in the hot direct summer sun, and sometimes it is good even then. Black suits are perfectly good- it is sheer snobbery to belittle them, and most people look great in them, which is why many formal men's clothes are (or should be) black. Black sweaters are great because they can collect the sun's warmth without being heavy. Even black dress shirts are useful under the right circumstances. It is entirely possible for people to choose a color that does not suit their skin tone or hair color, simply because they find the color attractive in their environment. This is never a problem with black. People rarely regret buying black garments. If they do regret it it is likely to have been something else about the item that was problematic. Many, MANY people look terrible in beige, tan, camel, brown, blue, or green or especially in burgundy and oxblood hues. No one looks bad in black. The black duffel coat was the most handsome looking one you showed in the video.
Frankly, I find some of the colors, and combinations thereof, that you advocate to be perceptually dissonant and garish; especially concerning are the sometimes outlandish tie, shirt, and pocket square choices. If you have a good sense of color, you can get away with almost anything, but most people need to be more circumspect. Black is your friend, and it will never betray you.
When buying vintage items, anyone would do well to remember that the most appropriate colors and tones of such garments were worn more consistently than the garish or more vibrant ones. The most tasteful things are less likely to have survived, because they were worn regularly. What is easiest to find are items in colors that were more idiosyncratic. The only exception to this effect might be hats, because they fell out of favor precipitously, especially here in the US, when people noticed that President Kennedy rarely wore them, so they were put away or donated. Hurray for that, because now we can find them!
Now that I've said all of those mean things, I want to reassure you that I watch you often, and find much of your content helpful.
I bought a couple of duffle coat when I was in school due to its English heritage, but it's not one of my favorite type of coat since it tends to make you appear younger. I mean in Japan, students tend to wear it on top of their uniforms as part of their preppy culture, so after all it is quite easy to be associated with a youngster impression.
If one wears them frequently with a sports coat one should consider a model with lining in the sleeves. It's not quite the original but makes handling easier. Otherwise I am also in favor of sticking with all the original features. I had a cheaper model I did not like so much (it lacked the latch), so I got a "classic" standard (unlined) model from Gloverall (navy) which became my standard winter coat (if it gets cold, I did not wear it at all last year, I think).
If I got another one, I'd probably go with a not too dark grey as it is the most versatile in combination (don't really like camel color).
What I like about it is that it is casual but still classy/traditional and very sturdy.
I've found Gloverall and Original Montgomery to be pretty equal in terms of quality.
make a video on edc
Will do
After watching Dead Poets Society I bought one from Nautica, very nice style coat
I have one with leg straps
buffalo worn or wooden toggles which looks better for a more formal look?
probably uniformly dark horn ones but some made with exotic woods are pretty nifty and classy too. dont forget to polish them when they get dull and use a leather conditioning cream like the one from Saphir on the leather retaining thingies every year or they'll get dry and snap. 😽👌
Duffel coats last a life time, but how to take good care of them?.
Got one from the 1960/70 from my home town Leiden (Holland) made by Biesot what is a flemisch name 😊
Sorry, sven, but loden is very much woven and then felted. There are a few varieties of felt. Among the non-woven variety, you have steam pressed felt and needle-punched felt sheets. They're hardly fabric in their own right.
Woven felts like loden and to some degree Melton, begin as loosely woven sheets of a thick yarn which are then boiled, soap-fulled then speed-dried at high temperatures. The resulting shrinking causes the weave to become ridiculously dense. The shorn nap acts as a water repellant layer. Also, napping has the effect of EASING snags. This means that thorns and other sharp objects catch on the pile rather than the weave. This allows tear_away without damaging the fabric. Wool shoddy was used extensively in making similar fabrics during the wars.
does a traditional duffle coat have a removable hood
Kylie Macnamara I don’t think so
Duffles are really masculine and women love them
Dear gent'gazette & readers, personnaly i tried the Cordings Duffle Coat in Donegal tweed. Very nice fabric, i love it ;) Regards from France.
Found a genuine Ladage & Oelke at a vintage kilo-sale! Barely paid 50€ for it, what a bargain.
much per kilogram does that make? 😹
I just bought one at a garage sale (In Argentina) for some... Hmm.. 40 dollars. I didn't know that it was a duffle.
Would you wear it with a suite?
Dario Pensabene it’s not recommended
Invertere coats are very nice, but quite hard to find. I think the Japanese market buys most of the world stock.
Why not include the original duffle coats from Biesot? Even made in the Benelux (using original 100% duffle fabric) where the duffle originates from? They're still sold in fisherman's and sailor's shops, and they're the real deal. Thick woollen coat, waterproof, virtually indestructible.
Hey Johan, i have a Biesot Duffle coat. And a Monty Gloverall. I prefer the Gloverall! The Polyamide in the Gloverall is largely there for greater water protection. I think the synthetics putting you off, they do generally for me too. But in this case I wouldn’t worry about it - it will make it slightly hardier, there will be no breathability issues given it’s not a close fit, and it’s a more authentic material in its weight and finish than pretty much every other duffle out there. Btw Biesot is using Tiroler Loden wool.
Would this do well in the snow?
Tabletop Chris they do very well in snow
Have a Burberry duffle. A little disappointed with it to be honest. It looks fine but it's kind of light weight it's windproof prowess is really lacking I need to pair it with a windproof gilet when the wind is up which is every day in the uk
I found a 90% wool Duffle on a british site for £200
Can you wear a hat with a duffle coat while still looking styling with the hood down?
You said you like to incorporate classics into slightly more modern styles but your pants don't speak the same.
And do you think putting on the hood is actually flattering for anyone?
Werbung für Dufflecoat. 👍
I went to a very traditional prep school in England, and for our winter uniform, our overcoats had to be dark blue gloverall duffle coats. I hated them at the time but since i joined boarding school, i have been wanting to buy myself a proper vintage one for my overcoat here as i genuinely do think they are very cool now.
We call that a Montgomery coat
Navel wear.
A hood! Id prefer to were a hat
The hood is too small, and tight to the head. Should be larger IMO.
Wait, anglo-saxons took something? No way.
He dose NOT know what he is talking about! He says I think a lot.
You look like Paddington Bear, it's a very silly looking coat.