Thanks! Just bought a 2013 SE with dual clutch and just 85k miles from the original owner. She had every service performed and the car is immaculate. The washer reservoir cap is cracked and yours is missing I noticed. Also, I pulled off the bottom engine cover and I think it looks like you did as well. The transmission currently works just fine with an occasional flutter or slight slip at the 1-2 shift. But otherwise works fine. However, I believe I’m going to go ahead and buy the kit to have on standby. Also, I have the TCM offering still in my back pocket since Ford says it’s never been replaced yet. (Have until 2025 to get that free). My son drives this mostly but I love it. Your video is very much appreciated and I’m going to jump on the other items you pointed out. Thanks!
You're welcome. Glad to help! I've got tons of other videos on these cars. Including removal of the transmission at home in the driveway, and doing the clutch with no special tools. Hope it helps! Happy driving
Thank you. I just received my new Launch X431 Pros Elite yesterday because I’m using this car as an excuse to get it. Haha. I used to be an ASE mechanic back in the 80’s but still do all our car work myself. I’ve rebuilt transmissions before but had to take a crash course in DCT’s once I got this car (2 weeks ago). I feel up to date now though. The part that bugs me the most is that the poor throw out bearing (sorry, slave bearing) is constantly under pressure and spinning while underway. With nothing but the grease from the factory, this just seems like Ford was asking for trouble. The DCT’s which use wet clutches seems much wiser. I guess Ford figured they’d last long enough to make it past warranty.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles2011 Ford Fiesta SES has a slight vibration feeling on the steering wheel or hand on the motor at 900 rpm idle. No lights. No missing at low or high speeds. Transmission no problem since Module recall replacement, PCM, computer, clutch replaced at 75,000 miles. Now has 110,000. New plugs, air filter didn’t affect vibration at an idle. Any ideas before I take it to the Ford Dealer? Car runs good.
I bought one of these cars for my eldest daughter when her previous car died and other than the DCT issues I think that it is a spectacularly good little car that rides well and provides excellent fuel economy for its class.
In addition to everything you said, I would also suggest that you find and clean the paint off of any grounding points on the battery. I did this a long time ago on my 245k miles Focus and I still have the original TCM. This may or may not be the reason its lasted so long but it definitely won't hurt as long as you protect the area with grease so it won't rust. I do this to all my car to protect the increasingly sensitive electronics in newer vehicles.
I have a 13 focus 227km replaced the tcm and clutches twice. The last time was 2018 @ 180km for the clutch and 2021 @ 210km for the tcm. I have been told the seals and clutches were updated and are a lot better now. I don't have any jerkiness anymore but in the back of my mind i will never trust this car not to break and wait times are crazy for parts and I don't think i qualify for the extended 2025 tcm because I had mine done before. I want to sell it but sometimes I tell myself I can trust it now its got new parts, but it seems even 2018 focus still have the same problems just not as frequently. Aside from that two years ago I had wiring issues there's a TSB for wiring rubbing against the intake manifold. I think they actually misdiagnosed the TCM and it was wiring all along and I probably didn't need mine replaced but I'm glad i did at the time so I'm not dealing with it now. For months afterwards my car would break down without warning I had the wiring checked multiple times and even the guy from ford Canada said I should ditch it for a fusion because the transmission problems anyway. That's very reassuring. I almost forgot when i went in in 2021 they first diagnosed it as needing a clutch! i said i just had mine done two years ago drives like a dream compared to before. He said it failed the RPM test that's when i told him its the TCM or its not that because i drove this car for years with a bad clutch and it never left me stranded just jerked like crazy, when they kept denying anything was wrong with it no one did an RPM test all those times i complained while i still had a warranty. That's when he gave me the new tcm i probably didn't need. it broke down two weeks later and they found the wiring issue. After it was repaired my car broke down about 4 more times and they said they couldn't find any issues with the wires they repaired (i took it two 3 dealerships total). I bought myself a scan tool and started replacing sensors that i'm guessing were damaged from the short. Both cam sensors. Fuel rail sensor (i think this was the one thanks to the third dealerships recommendation). o2 sensor. Then someone pointed out i had a leak. It was the TCM they didn't install it properly and the O ring was crimped or something. Hopefully that didn't cause any more damage than i already had they fixed that no cost. Recenly my purge valve sensor went i called them about the recall they had checked the software was updated in like 2017 so they said the recall was closed and i no longer qualified for it so i replaced that part. replaced the water pump. my engine mounts are shot (on back order) and my coolant reservoir developed a leak (pretty common). I never got a message that my car overheated but i'm scared to death that running low on coolant for however long could have damaged something and now i noticed my valve cover is leaking. I am having that looked at tomorrow. I've done every single oil change at ford and not once did anyone mention oil leaks, coolant tank leaking, engine mounts shot, i had to find that all out on my own. I also think they should have done more with the wiring TSB. The fix was fix the wires and wrap conduit around it. They couldn't have informed people it was a common problem and recommend a 10$ piece of conduit to save me 1000$ in wiring issues. I seem to have had every common issue on this car and i cant tell if i'm at the light of the end of the tunnel now and ill be good, or if i'm about to enter another nightmare if i keep it any longer. Just my rant about my experience
Sounds like it's time for a different dealer. Anyway since you have a new clutch and tcm you should be fine. Just ignore shudder and drive it hard occasionally to mitigate it. And yes there's a tsb about wiring rubbing on the intake. They should have checked that
yeah i've had no transmission issues since and ive done 47,000km on the clutch so hopefully it lasts a bit longer. I don't even have a shudder at all since replacing it because I avoid sitting in traffic and letting it overheat. But i'm stressed currently about the valve cover hopefully being the only thing leaking oil. ill update tomorrow but that was 3 ford dealerships i had been to not just one. I have a local guy i'm going to try now. I have learned so much from videos like yours though so thank you soo much. I would have stayed oblivious probably to most of what's been going on had it not been for people like you making these videos. @@BigBensCarsAndCycles
well i got the mount replaced and now i have a belt squeal when i first start my car. Do you think it got stretched from having a bad mount or do you think its more than that? idler pulley/tensioner? now this with the valve cover needing done I'm really feeling over my head with non stop repairs
@geometricdesigns3620 repairs will stop eventually. Probably just the belt needs to be replaced. There's also a stretch fit AC belt. I've got a video where I did that belt on my project focus
Ben, first of all thank you very much for educating the focus community on our vehicles. you’ve given me everything i need to service my 18’ AutoTragic second, is there a replacement for the ground cable(entire cable and connector?) battery to body in engine bay. i just noticed the actual connector at the battery was TRASHED.
I love your videoes and am a former Ford dealer tech. My 2014 Focus developed an odd problem where the engine stayed running after the key shut off. It turned out to be caused by washer fluid getting into the fuse box /BCM behind the glove box. I guess the fluid leaks up the wiring by capillary action. My pump (Motorcraft) and cleaned out the corrosion and all was well again. Have you seen that issue before?
Thank you for these vids, Im having issues with a focus I just got. It shifts hard and looses power during a shift. I got a p07a5 code come up on the forscan. I havent got to look at it yet though.
You're welcome! Switch actuators A and B around and if the code changes to p07a3 then replace both actuators. If it stays the same, get a LuK repset (oem clutch, forks and slave cyl) and should still replace both actuators. A sticking clutch fork can cause wear to the actuator and lead to a neutral feel on the highway
Bought one new in 2016 with 5 speed manual now 334k miles. Only thing to fail was coolent overflow and hard plactic coolent line . Replaced stuts ,shocks ,brakes ,tires . How long do the dual mass flywheels last with manual transmission? Clutch never replaced seems ok yet. Ford focus has been an excellent car.
Hey Ben, I've got a theory for you on the oil leak/seap situation with the valve cover gasket and I'd appreciate to hear what you think- Is it possible the top motor mount fails over time to warp the metal block below the cover? I'd assume it's more difficult to notice a faulty hydraulic mount compared to a metal one so it can go unnoticed and works in tandem with the lower motor/transmission mount to bow the metal enough so the plastic cover doesn't sit flush? I recently replaced my mounts and valve cover entirely and have been thinking about how much strained forces can be at play with something like that. I hope that makes enough sense in writing but an example of the forces I believe are at play would be similar to be grabbing a banana with two hands on both sides and bending it against the curve. I hope that gives you enough insight into my line of thinking!
Cool idea! I personally dont think the timing cover would warp. The bottom mount allows for lots of downward movement (its only there for preventing roll) So theres play down there (wont pull on the metal)
I replace my upper engine, I do still have a vibration you think it could the trans mount or roll support mount, wanted the check the support make the right bolts in the right place, I remember you mentioned in a vid it could cause a vibration
Yes for the dual clutch transmission. On a Fiesta you should also do the purge valve, tune up, valve cover gasket, engine cooling fan, timing belt, water pump
Pro 2012-2018 focus tip: I noticed you don't have a cap on that washer fluid reservoir. The Dorman replacement cover's fitment is not adequate and pops off after every bump on the road and ford wants $8 for the OEM one. With that being said..... I just wanted to say a mentos bottle cap fits perfectly on the reservoir lol.
Hi, great video! I just bought a 2014 with the 2.0 for my 16 yr old daughter. The TCM was just replaced by Ford. We put a few hundred miles on it and now it seems like the clutch slips sometimes. Mostly in 1st to 2nd gear. No dash codes. Has 122k miles. Any thoughts? TIA
Hey Ben; on the OEM Purge Valve will that give you a PO452 code? "Evaporirive Emmision Pressure Sensor / Switch Low" ??😢 2015 with 122k miles. I will be looking at a replacement water pump & flush it with the new yellow fluid when it gets warmer in Ohio. Its still running the same clutch that was in it when i bought it at 40k miles. FYI the Company Name "Luk" (pronounced like Luke as in skywalker.) Is made in Mexico at the Pebla plant. Worked for them for 8 years in Wooster Ohio first job was building a Test Dyno for the DTC clutches.😊
Hey that's awesome you've got a lot of use out of that clutch. The p0452 code is for the fuel tank pressure sensor. Look on top of the tank on the rear side. A lot of times the wires just get chewed by mice at the connector. You can repair that without pulling the tank. Unless you need the whole sensor
@BigBensCarsAndCycles hey Ben Guess I have to get under it again. Had this squirrel eating it problem 2 yrs ago. Soldered up replacement wiring under back seat to that sensor. EDGUNLESHY style Squirrel spree #2 coming up !
Ok , did everything to get my dps6 clutch back in but now I'm having no success getting the ball joints reinstalled. Anyone have any ideas that will work ?
If I could drive my 2016 Focus to you, I’d have you service the transmission cause you seem very trustworthy tech when working on cars. but it’d probably give me the “ transmission overheating “ 30min into the drive haha 😅
Hey Ben, thanks for your hard work. What’s your suggestion in regard to the timing belt? Or the crankshaft gear, are they still prone to breaking off on one side?
I would be replacing both timing belts at maximum 50k Also make sure the correct oil is used . Here in the UK this is a huge problem on these engines . Take no chances !!
@adrianfoy6790 great advice! 100k is a bit long. But I heard the new tensioners are a better design. Still though, an oil bathed belt.. best to replace it often
I’ve been debating wondering if I should run 5w30 in my 2015 focus 137k miles it runs great and shifts smooth I run royal purple 5w20 in it was wondering if anyone else tried 5w30 in it on my 09 gt mustang I already switched from 5w20 to 5w30
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles getting from fordoempartsdirect at 95k miles done all service myself this is the first thing to break, thank god its only gonna be like 45 for the part online. i bought peak north american orange hope its good.
It may be low on refrigerant. You can buy a manifold gauge set and attach it to the car while trying to run the AC. See what the pressures are with the AC on and let me know if you'd like. Or have a shop evac and measure what's in it. Might be a leaking compressor or condenser possibly
Cool! What internal engine issues have you seen on the 2.0 duratec? I haven't seen one in my 11 years. I've heard of a few online that overheated and one that broke a rod when he drove it hard with a plugged cat.
I had an 05 focus with the Duratec 2L it gave me no problems at all. It was 8 years old when I got it and I had it for 10 years and just sent it off cause the canadian salty roads got to the bottom of it.
You cannot bulletproof these cars with the DPS6. I had everything in MY DPS6 replaced 2 years ago. I am already shuttering going into gear 2. My clutches only lasted 3 years. I have owned my car since new and only Ford has repaired it 7 Times. Bull SH!T Alarm is going off right now. And get a wiper fluid cap!!!
Hi, you can drive the car hard once in a while to mitigate shudder and that'll let everything last longer. That's a main issue is that people aren't well informed on the best way to drive these cars. It's my goal to help people out with them and save them money. Just drive it like you stole it occasionally. It's what I do, and I haven't had shudder in some time
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles when you drive it hard you put more clutch dust into the actuators that causes them to hang up. I will drive my car until a get my mass action court case (soon I hope) or it breaks again..... THX. for advice.
@@jamesmatheson4746 Good luck to you sir. If the car is babied all the time, it's going to accumulate more dust. And long term, it'll add up. If driven hard for the first time in years, it can dislodge a lot of dust. So I agree. The best thing is to start with a fresh clutch & forks and don't baby it. Shudder is caused by hot spots on pressure plates. When driven too easy, the tcm will slip the clutch more to provide smooth acceleration. This causes premature wear, heat and clutch debris. This can be mitigated if driven correctly from the start.
Update: On the 1.0L Ecoboost, Fords going to be recalling the oil pump tensioner issue
Dual Clutch OEM Clutch & Fork Kit: amzn.to/47GMeIl
2.0L Engine Mount: amzn.to/49366Xd
2.0L Upstream o2: amzn.to/47KVuv5
Thank you for all of the info you provide us to keep our Focuses on the road Ben 🙏
This channel is really a treasure for Focus owners
I'm glad my videos help! I appreciate you watching
Thanks! Just bought a 2013 SE with dual clutch and just 85k miles from the original owner. She had every service performed and the car is immaculate. The washer reservoir cap is cracked and yours is missing I noticed. Also, I pulled off the bottom engine cover and I think it looks like you did as well. The transmission currently works just fine with an occasional flutter or slight slip at the 1-2 shift. But otherwise works fine. However, I believe I’m going to go ahead and buy the kit to have on standby. Also, I have the TCM offering still in my back pocket since Ford says it’s never been replaced yet. (Have until 2025 to get that free). My son drives this mostly but I love it. Your video is very much appreciated and I’m going to jump on the other items you pointed out. Thanks!
You're welcome. Glad to help! I've got tons of other videos on these cars. Including removal of the transmission at home in the driveway, and doing the clutch with no special tools. Hope it helps! Happy driving
Thank you. I just received my new Launch X431 Pros Elite yesterday because I’m using this car as an excuse to get it. Haha. I used to be an ASE mechanic back in the 80’s but still do all our car work myself. I’ve rebuilt transmissions before but had to take a crash course in DCT’s once I got this car (2 weeks ago). I feel up to date now though. The part that bugs me the most is that the poor throw out bearing (sorry, slave bearing) is constantly under pressure and spinning while underway. With nothing but the grease from the factory, this just seems like Ford was asking for trouble. The DCT’s which use wet clutches seems much wiser. I guess Ford figured they’d last long enough to make it past warranty.
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles2011 Ford Fiesta SES has a slight vibration feeling on the steering wheel or hand on the motor at 900 rpm idle. No lights. No missing at low or high speeds. Transmission no problem since Module recall replacement, PCM, computer, clutch replaced at 75,000 miles. Now has 110,000. New plugs, air filter didn’t affect vibration at an idle. Any ideas before I take it to the Ford Dealer? Car runs good.
@@LastTrump7 check the motor mounts lol
they are kinda ass, ive just dealt with it for like 2 years
i also idle at about 900 in the focus
I bought one of these cars for my eldest daughter when her previous car died and other than the DCT issues I think that it is a spectacularly good little car that rides well and provides excellent fuel economy for its class.
In addition to everything you said, I would also suggest that you find and clean the paint off of any grounding points on the battery. I did this a long time ago on my 245k miles Focus and I still have the original TCM. This may or may not be the reason its lasted so long but it definitely won't hurt as long as you protect the area with grease so it won't rust. I do this to all my car to protect the increasingly sensitive electronics in newer vehicles.
Thank you!
Ben I was thrilled to see you flash a bottle of AMSOIL DCT! The very best!
Yup! I ended up using that in my fiesta
I have a 13 focus 227km replaced the tcm and clutches twice. The last time was 2018 @ 180km for the clutch and 2021 @ 210km for the tcm. I have been told the seals and clutches were updated and are a lot better now. I don't have any jerkiness anymore but in the back of my mind i will never trust this car not to break and wait times are crazy for parts and I don't think i qualify for the extended 2025 tcm because I had mine done before. I want to sell it but sometimes I tell myself I can trust it now its got new parts, but it seems even 2018 focus still have the same problems just not as frequently. Aside from that two years ago I had wiring issues there's a TSB for wiring rubbing against the intake manifold. I think they actually misdiagnosed the TCM and it was wiring all along and I probably didn't need mine replaced but I'm glad i did at the time so I'm not dealing with it now. For months afterwards my car would break down without warning I had the wiring checked multiple times and even the guy from ford Canada said I should ditch it for a fusion because the transmission problems anyway. That's very reassuring. I almost forgot when i went in in 2021 they first diagnosed it as needing a clutch! i said i just had mine done two years ago drives like a dream compared to before. He said it failed the RPM test that's when i told him its the TCM or its not that because i drove this car for years with a bad clutch and it never left me stranded just jerked like crazy, when they kept denying anything was wrong with it no one did an RPM test all those times i complained while i still had a warranty. That's when he gave me the new tcm i probably didn't need. it broke down two weeks later and they found the wiring issue. After it was repaired my car broke down about 4 more times and they said they couldn't find any issues with the wires they repaired (i took it two 3 dealerships total). I bought myself a scan tool and started replacing sensors that i'm guessing were damaged from the short. Both cam sensors. Fuel rail sensor (i think this was the one thanks to the third dealerships recommendation). o2 sensor. Then someone pointed out i had a leak. It was the TCM they didn't install it properly and the O ring was crimped or something. Hopefully that didn't cause any more damage than i already had they fixed that no cost. Recenly my purge valve sensor went i called them about the recall they had checked the software was updated in like 2017 so they said the recall was closed and i no longer qualified for it so i replaced that part. replaced the water pump. my engine mounts are shot (on back order) and my coolant reservoir developed a leak (pretty common). I never got a message that my car overheated but i'm scared to death that running low on coolant for however long could have damaged something and now i noticed my valve cover is leaking. I am having that looked at tomorrow. I've done every single oil change at ford and not once did anyone mention oil leaks, coolant tank leaking, engine mounts shot, i had to find that all out on my own. I also think they should have done more with the wiring TSB. The fix was fix the wires and wrap conduit around it. They couldn't have informed people it was a common problem and recommend a 10$ piece of conduit to save me 1000$ in wiring issues. I seem to have had every common issue on this car and i cant tell if i'm at the light of the end of the tunnel now and ill be good, or if i'm about to enter another nightmare if i keep it any longer. Just my rant about my experience
Sounds like it's time for a different dealer. Anyway since you have a new clutch and tcm you should be fine. Just ignore shudder and drive it hard occasionally to mitigate it. And yes there's a tsb about wiring rubbing on the intake. They should have checked that
yeah i've had no transmission issues since and ive done 47,000km on the clutch so hopefully it lasts a bit longer. I don't even have a shudder at all since replacing it because I avoid sitting in traffic and letting it overheat. But i'm stressed currently about the valve cover hopefully being the only thing leaking oil. ill update tomorrow but that was 3 ford dealerships i had been to not just one. I have a local guy i'm going to try now. I have learned so much from videos like yours though so thank you soo much. I would have stayed oblivious probably to most of what's been going on had it not been for people like you making these videos. @@BigBensCarsAndCycles
well i got the mount replaced and now i have a belt squeal when i first start my car. Do you think it got stretched from having a bad mount or do you think its more than that? idler pulley/tensioner? now this with the valve cover needing done I'm really feeling over my head with non stop repairs
@geometricdesigns3620 repairs will stop eventually. Probably just the belt needs to be replaced. There's also a stretch fit AC belt. I've got a video where I did that belt on my project focus
Love this channel. So informative. I really appreciate how you tackled all the common problems. Thank you for your expertise
Ben,
first of all thank you very much for educating the focus community on our vehicles. you’ve given me everything i need to service my 18’ AutoTragic
second, is there a replacement for the ground cable(entire cable and connector?) battery to body in engine bay. i just noticed the actual connector at the battery was TRASHED.
You're welcome! By the way you have the updated tcm from the factory on your 2018. And yes, get the negative battery cable
I love your videoes and am a former Ford dealer tech. My 2014 Focus developed an odd problem where the engine stayed running after the key shut off. It turned out to be caused by washer fluid getting into the fuse box /BCM behind the glove box. I guess the fluid leaks up the wiring by capillary action. My pump (Motorcraft) and cleaned out the corrosion and all was well again. Have you seen that issue before?
Replaced pump I mean.
@scottjacoby8301 interesting! I haven't seen that, nope. I've seen a few where I lock the doors with the fob and it starts the engine lol (bad bcm)
I’ve had literally every issue you mentioned plus a few besides the o ring leaks 😭
Thank you for these vids, Im having issues with a focus I just got. It shifts hard and looses power during a shift. I got a p07a5 code come up on the forscan. I havent got to look at it yet though.
You're welcome! Switch actuators A and B around and if the code changes to p07a3 then replace both actuators. If it stays the same, get a LuK repset (oem clutch, forks and slave cyl) and should still replace both actuators. A sticking clutch fork can cause wear to the actuator and lead to a neutral feel on the highway
Bought one new in 2016 with 5 speed manual now 334k miles. Only thing to fail was coolent overflow and hard plactic coolent line . Replaced stuts ,shocks ,brakes ,tires . How long do the dual mass flywheels last with manual transmission? Clutch never replaced seems ok yet. Ford focus has been an excellent car.
Hi, the flywheel should last the life of the clutch.
Hey Ben, I've got a theory for you on the oil leak/seap situation with the valve cover gasket and I'd appreciate to hear what you think-
Is it possible the top motor mount fails over time to warp the metal block below the cover? I'd assume it's more difficult to notice a faulty hydraulic mount compared to a metal one so it can go unnoticed and works in tandem with the lower motor/transmission mount to bow the metal enough so the plastic cover doesn't sit flush? I recently replaced my mounts and valve cover entirely and have been thinking about how much strained forces can be at play with something like that.
I hope that makes enough sense in writing but an example of the forces I believe are at play would be similar to be grabbing a banana with two hands on both sides and bending it against the curve. I hope that gives you enough insight into my line of thinking!
Cool idea! I personally dont think the timing cover would warp. The bottom mount allows for lots of downward movement (its only there for preventing roll) So theres play down there (wont pull on the metal)
I replace my upper engine, I do still have a vibration you think it could the trans mount or roll support mount, wanted the check the support make the right bolts in the right place, I remember you mentioned in a vid it could cause a vibration
Check for rocks stuck in the lower mount
You always on point
Thanks! Glad to help
Question ? Could I fit focus st parts such as intercoolers and radiators and race headers on an 2013 Se flex fluel .
Does everything you said go for the 2011- newer, dual clutch Fiesta also?
Yes for the dual clutch transmission. On a Fiesta you should also do the purge valve, tune up, valve cover gasket, engine cooling fan, timing belt, water pump
Pro 2012-2018 focus tip:
I noticed you don't have a cap on that washer fluid reservoir. The Dorman replacement cover's fitment is not adequate and pops off after every bump on the road and ford wants $8 for the OEM one. With that being said..... I just wanted to say a mentos bottle cap fits perfectly on the reservoir lol.
Nice! I've seen a few people do that! That's video worthy
Fantastic video as always, Ben! I really enjoy my Focus. I don't like really big cars, even though I'm a giant lol 😂
Haha im a big dude myself. I'm the same way, I prefer smaller cars!
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles People make fun of me I would drive a beetle though I don't care 🤣 have a nice one!
Hi, great video! I just bought a 2014 with the 2.0 for my 16 yr old daughter. The TCM was just replaced by Ford. We put a few hundred miles on it and now it seems like the clutch slips sometimes. Mostly in 1st to 2nd gear. No dash codes. Has 122k miles. Any thoughts? TIA
Hi. Drive the car hard occasionally to mitigate shudder, or replace the clutch, forks and slave cyl. Check my last video I uploaded, I talk about this
Do you think it’s ok to use the ac Delco mesh fluid even if you don’t suspect synchro issues?
Yeah that's fine. That's what I have in mine
Great video! I subscribed 🎉🎉
Thanks! I'm happy it helped
i need to clean my throttle body and the air sensor, can i take off focus’s throttle body and move it around while cleaning?
Yes, i wouldn't move the throttle body valve too abruptly though just to be safe
Hey Ben;
on the OEM Purge Valve will that give you a PO452 code? "Evaporirive Emmision Pressure Sensor / Switch Low" ??😢 2015 with 122k miles.
I will be looking at a replacement water pump & flush it with the new yellow fluid when it gets warmer in Ohio.
Its still running the same clutch that was in it when i bought it at 40k miles.
FYI the Company Name "Luk" (pronounced like Luke as in skywalker.) Is made in Mexico at the Pebla plant. Worked for them for 8 years in Wooster Ohio first job was building a Test Dyno for the DTC clutches.😊
Hey that's awesome you've got a lot of use out of that clutch. The p0452 code is for the fuel tank pressure sensor. Look on top of the tank on the rear side. A lot of times the wires just get chewed by mice at the connector. You can repair that without pulling the tank. Unless you need the whole sensor
@BigBensCarsAndCycles hey Ben
Guess I have to get under it again. Had this squirrel eating it problem 2 yrs ago. Soldered up replacement wiring under back seat to that sensor. EDGUNLESHY style Squirrel spree #2 coming up !
If I could give 10 thumbs up, I would! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
You're very welcome!
Ok , did everything to get my dps6 clutch back in but now I'm having no success getting the ball joints reinstalled. Anyone have any ideas that will work ?
they can be tricky. is your inner cv joint dislocated? That can cause limited movement in the knuckle/strut
Hey Ben, want to ask on the updated TCM from what year Ford updated it ?
Hi, 2017 and newer have it
If I could drive my 2016 Focus to you, I’d have you service the transmission cause you seem very trustworthy tech when working on cars. but it’d probably give me the “ transmission overheating “ 30min into the drive haha 😅
Sorry to hear! Haha. Wish I could help
Hey Ben, thanks for your hard work. What’s your suggestion in regard to the timing belt? Or the crankshaft gear, are they still prone to breaking off on one side?
The 2.0 has a chain and I've never seen an issue with them.
The 1.0 do it every 100k & the oil pump belt and tensioners
I would be replacing both timing belts at maximum 50k
Also make sure the correct oil is used .
Here in the UK this is a huge problem on these engines .
Take no chances !!
@adrianfoy6790 great advice! 100k is a bit long. But I heard the new tensioners are a better design. Still though, an oil bathed belt.. best to replace it often
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles It's a big job tho to change it !
@@adrianfoy6790 definitely!
I’ve been debating wondering if I should run 5w30 in my 2015 focus 137k miles it runs great and shifts smooth I run royal purple 5w20 in it was wondering if anyone else tried 5w30 in it on my 09 gt mustang I already switched from 5w20 to 5w30
The 2.0 duratec on late 2000s focuses use 5w30 from the factory, so I choose to use 5w30 in mine in summer months on high mileage (150k +) focuses
i cannot find oem degas reservoir anywhere , where do i find a good one rockauto doesnt have eom
The dealer usually stocks them in store
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles getting from fordoempartsdirect at 95k miles done all service myself this is the first thing to break, thank god its only gonna be like 45 for the part online. i bought peak north american orange hope its good.
Air conditioning not getting cold air? LW focus 2013 .
It may be low on refrigerant. You can buy a manifold gauge set and attach it to the car while trying to run the AC. See what the pressures are with the AC on and let me know if you'd like. Or have a shop evac and measure what's in it. Might be a leaking compressor or condenser possibly
Have you ever used penzoil syncromesh on these?
Nope! But I'd give it a shot if it's 75w80
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles i believe it is. May try it next time
Why is that DCT transmission fluid in the video better than the OEM?
I haven't done any testing, but amsoil has proven to be outstanding in independent tests
There is nothing better than AMSOIL. I put it in my DCT on vacation at 92,790 miles and I'm going with total confidence in it.
You have to drive this like you stole it man ppl don't know that lol but that's why it will always be one of my favorite cars
More for this car
Hey man! Greetings from the DR! Thanks so much for your videos. Do you happen to have a email for direct contanct? Thanks!
AMSOIL ! 👍👍
How the finger doing
It's healing up by the day! Thanks for asking
Mkay? 😂❤
The 1.0L Ecoboost engine timings belts are known to fail at only 35000 miles .
Worst engine Ford produced ever !!
It seemed pretty interesting when they were releasing it, but yeah when I heard it was going to be a wet timing belt I raised my eyebrows lol
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles A Ticking time bomb.
Eco BOOM !!
As a ford technician for the last 25 years I can tell you that its not the most reliable engine
Cool! What internal engine issues have you seen on the 2.0 duratec? I haven't seen one in my 11 years. I've heard of a few online that overheated and one that broke a rod when he drove it hard with a plugged cat.
I had an 05 focus with the Duratec 2L it gave me no problems at all. It was 8 years old when I got it and I had it for 10 years and just sent it off cause the canadian salty roads got to the bottom of it.
You cannot bulletproof these cars with the DPS6. I had everything in MY DPS6 replaced 2 years ago. I am already shuttering going into gear 2. My clutches only lasted 3 years. I have owned my car since new and only Ford has repaired it 7 Times. Bull SH!T Alarm is going off right now. And get a wiper fluid cap!!!
Hi, you can drive the car hard once in a while to mitigate shudder and that'll let everything last longer. That's a main issue is that people aren't well informed on the best way to drive these cars. It's my goal to help people out with them and save them money. Just drive it like you stole it occasionally. It's what I do, and I haven't had shudder in some time
@@BigBensCarsAndCycles when you drive it hard you put more clutch dust into the actuators that causes them to hang up. I will drive my car until a get my mass action court case (soon I hope) or it breaks again..... THX. for advice.
@@jamesmatheson4746 Good luck to you sir. If the car is babied all the time, it's going to accumulate more dust. And long term, it'll add up. If driven hard for the first time in years, it can dislodge a lot of dust. So I agree. The best thing is to start with a fresh clutch & forks and don't baby it. Shudder is caused by hot spots on pressure plates. When driven too easy, the tcm will slip the clutch more to provide smooth acceleration. This causes premature wear, heat and clutch debris. This can be mitigated if driven correctly from the start.