1995 Mercury 115 HP carburetor removal, oil reservoir warning alarm
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- In this video I show you how to remove the carburetors from a 1995 Mercury 115 and provide information to a RUclips video for rebuilding them. INFORMATION ON THE LOW OIL ALARM IS NOT CORRECT FOR THIS MODEL OF OIL RESERVOIR. I ended up replacing the reservoir, buying a new one here: leadersrpmshop...
The filler/dipstick barely fits inside the oil fill window, but it works.
Your the man!! I was pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to reinstall airbox. Your lesson on splitting lower couling is SUPER helpful!
Hi Tom, glad I was able to help you.
Thanks Rich. I had been looking for videos on my 97 elpto and finally came across your work.
Glad I could help
This helps quite a bit...thank you. Very thorough with part numbers and such. Thank you
You're welcome, glad it helped you.
Your the man is right. TY Sir!
Glad my video was able to help you. Thanks for the kind words.
Hi Rich, I didn't know there was a fix for the oil alarm. I may do that since my tank has the cap access. I unplugged my annoying alarm and keep 2 stroke oil with me on the boat. On the carbs the mercury manual states that link and sync needs to be redone if more than one carb comes off. Makes sence to me since the bolt holes that attach to each carb are not close tolerance. But you said you ran it and works good so you may have got lucky
For the oil alarm you need to:
Use a very long nose pliers or some 12 gauge copper wire to fish down in the drained tank and pull off that metal cap. Take out the float and magnet and clean them off. Use a glue like Permatex Ultra Black to glue them together. Put the float/magnet back on the post. Straighten the metal cap and use long nose pliers to put it back on the post. Sites I have found didn't even remove the tank.
For the carbs I took them off one at a time, cleaned and reinstalled. I guess the rubber fuel lines let them line up properly. I too have seen the videos on how to sync them. Mine are 2+2 so the bottom carbs have no idle. Since I'm up to 50 mph and it idles smoothly, I have no complaints. :-)
Thanks Rich, not worried about the tank right now but down the line it will make another video to make on the Merc. Taking off one carb at a time would work and reinstall before removing the next one. Yes your merc is much different from my 60hp 3 carb. I guess 4 strokes to adjust the carbs on them people use independent gauges for each carb to dial them in. 2 strokes just use a rpm tach to dial in the rpm idle range. I didn't do this but the marine shop I took it to has a dyno tune tank that cost $$$ for them. They tuned up mine and serviced it after tax around 700 bucks. Well worth it. They told me what I needed to do to maintain it plus the steering cable needed to be replaced which I did. Not easy but I probably saved another 500 in labor👍
I cut a hole and put it back, fixed it, and used heat to melted it back like a heat welder
Clever. I considered that but I had been having problems with the rectangular lid of the oil fill. The foam kept leaking, even after several replacements. Overheating and warping that filler area with a heat gun did not help. I found the different oil tank and replaced it but it doesn't fit very well. It is hard to unscrew and remove the filler cap/dipstick. I don't see any way to improve it. I can force the screw cap off but the easiest way is to remove the cowling and refill the tank.
Hey Rich. I too am missing the seal you mention at @ 2 min. Where did you the seal and do you happen to have the part #?
Hi Will, with your serial number you can find any part number for your Mercury at their parts catalog site: www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog . Click the Launch button and enter your serial number in the search box on the next page, select the correct HP and build location then it can get a little difficult because of the various section names. You want the gasket for the attenuator plate. That part is #828479. I searched for Mercury part 828479 and found it
However, the 2-stroke oil keeps soaking it down at the bottom of the attenuator and the gasket keeps coming off at the bottom, so it's somewhat useless. Before you put it on, get that area really clean and dry.
I have a 1994 mariner 90, not the same size oil reservoir but it has the same latch type mechanism for the oil fill. It leaks like crazy if I fill my tank over 1/2 way and trim up for trailering.
It's a terrible design. I replaced the gasket a couple of times, which helped. Still, there was always some leakage. I replaced the bottle with the newer design so no leaks now. Instead, it's very difficult to get the cap off because it's rim is just under the cowling.
I have a 92 Merc 135 Black Max. I really think the Oil Injection system is way over rated. Very expensive parts and when that oil pump drive gear shreds (not if, when. It will shred because its plastic and the gear it drives is metal) you better be able to kill the motor and get towed back to port. I've also read that it won't fail completely but will just pump less oil while still rotating the motion detection part of the oil warning system thus not giving the audible alarm. Any of these scenarios are common on these older Mercs and will cause catastrophic oil starvation. This is probably why Mercury has a pump block off kit for these motors. Many people (myself included) have just gone ahead and deleted the entire oil injection and oil warning systems and run pre-mix. Much less hassle and no worries. IMO of course. Good video. Thanks!
Thanks for the comments EW. Outboards have all kinds of things that can fail. I've heard stories about the oil injection failing. There used to be something called VRO; Variable Rate Oiler. The concept was to save oil by sending more oil at low speed but less at high speed. These were notorious for failing. I carry enough oil on my boat to mix into the tank if needed, but you can't anticipate everything. I had an Evinrude 50 that failed to start when I was at the end of the lake. A fuse had blown and later on I found out it was a short in the wiring plug, the main harness plug. I was fishing with a friend, riding down the Tom Bigby waterway at full throttle on a 150 Merc when the drive shaft snapped. It took us an hour on the trolling motor to get to the dock. It's always something.
Hi Rich, thanks for a great video. Quick question, how do you disconnect the wires with the bullet connectors? Do they just pull apart? Thank you
I used to get notified when someone replied to my videos but something has changed. I apologize for the late reply. The bullet connectors just pull apart. They are a Mercury special connector, requiring a special tool (of course) to install. I replaced a connector on my voltage regulator that had burned. I just used a standard bullet connector and sealed it up with some Permatex.
I just replaced my tank on a OptiMax 250 with an identical tank (cracked bottom nipple), but the sensor seems to be inverted on this older tank I bought. If I heard right it sounds like your tank works the same since you said you can bypass the sensor by simply unplugging. Does the float switch go from open to closed when the float is low? My boat expects the opposite and that is how the aftermarket tank that as on there works.
This is my tank: On the bottom of the tank is a small bulge where the alarm switch sits up in the tank. It's not open to the oil, only the switch is in there. Inside the tank is the float, riding on a small pole that goes down to the alarm switch. As the oil is used the float goes down the pole until it nears the switch. On the bottom of the float is a magnet. When it gets close enough to the switch the magnet pulls a metal plate inside the switch, closing the circuit and the alarm starts beeping. (Overheating is a constant beep, low oil is an intermittent beep.)
On mine it was a known issue that the oil broke down the glue that held the magnet to the float, so the switch was always closed and the alarm was always beeping. For a temp solution, until I found a replacement tank, I disconnected the 2 blue wires coming from the switch on the outside bottom of the tank.
I ended up replacing the entire tank with a newer version. The early model I had was no longer available and I screwed up the filler box so it was toast anyway. The new model tank is a REAL PAIN! The filler cap unscrews and it is just barely under the edge of the cowling, so I have to really push the filler neck and cap to get it off.
I hope this helps, post again if it doesn't
@@richward2288 Ah, so yours is reversed from mine because your float is the bottom (mine is on the top).
@@mnetwork the switch is on the bottom, the float is on a short shaft about 4" above the switch
@@richward2288 Yup, that explains the reversal. Thanks!
Hello. When you discovered the short behind the reservoir, did you notice if it burned the reservoir? I discovered it on mine and want route the harness differently. Could you let me know what you did, please?
The rev limiter sits behind the oil reservoir and had a cracked housing. I believe it was shorting out. I replaced it and haven't had any problems since then. It did not burn anything, I think it was just shorting to ground. I have replaced the oil reservoir in another video. The low oil warning system in the OEM reservoir had broken. (Known issue, magnet separates from the float, falls down and closes the circuit.) I couldn't repair the sensor, I had an early model reservoir and the broken part couldn't be removed. I replaced the reservoir.
Hi Rich, Great video! I just put a new mercury 115 on my boat and I wanted to see what type of oil you used in the top reservoir? Anything helps thanks!
Your owners manual will tell you what oil to use. There are different oils for 2-stroke and 4-stroke. I've always used Quicksilver and Mercury oil
Thanks@@richward2288 Mine is the exact same as yours. I had some 2 stroke oil that I used to mix with gas from my old outboard I just used that. I was just curious if it was something way different. I checked the owners manual but it didn't say...
@@anchoredmanagement6386 I always use Quicksilver Premium Plus 2-stroke, synthetic blend. Yes, there are cheaper oils but I figure I spend a lot more on gas (which is always 89 octane from a major brand, BP, Shell, etc.) than oil so it's kind of "pay me now, or pay me later" kind of thing. I buy a case (3 gallons) at a time from Bass Pro, cheaper that way. It's about what I use each season. I keep 3 pints in the boat because I am able to carry 2 5-gallon cans under my front deck. If I fill up at sea I dump a pint or two into the oil reservoir.
Army training: Take care of your equipment and it'll take care of you. (Shout out to Sargents Dew and Daw, B-10-5, Ft Knox, KY circa Feb 1966).
Hi Rich, Kodi Bass one of my other subs said he wasn't getting notification of my new videos lately? Did you get my new one today?
I get notifications only if someone comments on one of my videos, but then I follow only a few people. I did not get a notification of your new video. I'm fairly new to RUclips so maybe I'm missing a setting???
Obrigado por colocar legenda
De nada
What pitch prop are you running? I have the same motor on my 18’ bass boat and can only get 39 mph out of it.
When my 17' Ranger R72 was new in 1994 (95 model) I would normally run 50-53 mph with just me in the boat and a half tank of gas. With 2 of us in the boat it would run 46-48 mph. The slowest I've ever run at was 43 mph. Currently I'm at 45-47 mph. I have found that gas brand or higher octane doesn't seem to affect speed. I've run ethanol free fuel, again, no difference.
My OEM prop is a 13 ½” X 22 Pitch Mercury Laser II. I also have a newer 4-blade prop, a SOLAS HR Titan 13 x 21 RH 1453-130-21. That really gets me on plane fast, even with 3 adults over 200 lbs. and a full livewell. With just me it drops my speed by 1-2 mph and the RPM by a few hundred.
@@richward2288 currently I have a 13 1/8 x 19. Guess I might look into a different prop
@@botopliff your boat is larger so that's a big factor. Note your RPMs before swapping out props, for comparison. Good luck 😃
Hello i have the same engine and i have a problem with it so the engine can make speed only if i press the key 1 or 2 times i fix the carburetor and it's the same problem btw i removed oil tank and i mix the oil with gasoline by myself can you help me please ?
Hello Mahdi, I'm not quite understanding. When you press the key 1 or 2 times, do you mean you are choking the motor? The only way you can get the motor to run is by constantly choking it? If so, it's either fuel starved or it's getting too much air.
I'm not an outboard motor mechanic but I can offer some suggestions. There a few possibilities. The main jet of the top 2 carburetors could be clogged. (This is a 2+2 engine. It uses only the top 2 carbs at idle speed.) Carefully use a fine wire to clean out both. It could be an air leak in the gasket between the carb and the block. Are the carbs torqued properly? If you use portable gas tanks it could be the vent on the tank is blocked. How about the fuel filter? Has that been changed? Does it have a water separator? Fuel line connector to the engine in good shape? Fuel line kinked or pinched anywhere?
You can Google "what's wrong with my outboard if it will run only when choked" and see if there are any more suggestions.
Ok thank you for your help 😄
Hey we’re did you buy the oil reservoir
In this video I thought that it was the external sensor that was bad, so I replaced it. It wasn't the sensor. There is a float in the tank that separates from a metal washer that, when the oil is low, will get pulled down by the magnet and close a circuit to activate the alarm. The OEM tank on my motor couldn't be repaired. You can't get the foam float out to glue onto the metal washer again.
I ordered a new tank from Leaders RPM shop:
leadersrpmshop.com/mercury-marine-mercruiser-new-oem-tank-kit-oil-inj-1200-892846a04-1200-828362a3/
I followed the instructions and it wasn't difficult to install. However, the filler neck just barely appears in the filler door. Unscrewing the cap/dipstick is a little awkward. It rubs against the edge of the filler door. Otherwise, it works fine. I can't edit the video or the URL will change, so I left it as it is.
The whole reason I watched the video was to see how you got the front cover back on but you skipped over that part.
You mean the attenuator plate? The thick black plate in the front? It just slides over the 6 bolts and there are 2 bolts at the bottom that go through the lower carb. I talk about this starting at 2:30 9:16 and again 11:36. You need to remove the lower cowling, which isn't too hard. I talk about this at 3:05. I made this video before I got the service manual. I was told by a friend that the torque was 100 in. lbs. My service manual also says 100 in. lbs. on both the 6 nuts and 2 bolts at the bottom.
If you mean the plastic, black cover over the attenuator then there is a gasket that goes on the back of the cover and the bolts just screw into the attenuator.
I have same problem with the oil level
I'm not sure what you mean. If it's the alarm, early Mercury models require the oil reservoir be replaced.
@@richward2288 I mean my oil sensor is active regardless of the oil level and I have the same oil reservoir than yours. I will try to install a contactless sensor I found on amazon that looks promising and is about 15USD.
@@toromigel the oil reservoir float device is defective. It is not the alarm. In the oil tank there is a small float with a metal washer. When oil is low the float will activate a magnetic switch and the alarm will sound. The glue holding the metal washer to the float is defective. It breaks and the washer will fall to the sensor, starting the alarm, which doesn't stop because the washer is not connected to the small float.
There are 2 types of reservoir. One has a small box with a lid. This cannot be repaired. The float cannot be removed through the small box. You must replace with a newer style reservoir.
The other reservoir, newer model, has a round fill neck with screw-in lid. This can possibly be repaired. It is difficult but you must extract the float, washer and magnet by removing a metal tab from the top of the sensor post, which holds the sensor outside the reservoir.
@@richward2288 sorry my bad I should say float device magnet instead of the sensor. Since is not possible to re-glue the magnet due I can't extract the float because of the weird oil tank cover and narrow entrance. I am planning to install a contactless liquid sensor on the oil tank wall from outside and rewire the alarm into the contactless sensor. This will allow to use the same tank. Greeting from Chile
@@toromigel I hope you are able to repair it. Buena suerte ;-)
On that oil reservoir you couldn’t find the original one.
No, and they have been replaced with the newer model. Even the newer model was hard to find. My motor is 25 years old now. It's ok, the newer model works. 🙂