Did the exact same job on my starter, runs like a charm now! Thanks a lot for putting this video up, it was invaluable in the process. Greetings from Sweden!
Excellent video! Thanks so much for your ingenuity using a Jif plastic bottle cap. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the brushes in then took a break and found your video. My “tool” is far more crude than yours but after 20 minutes got everything secured. Will try out tomorrow and post results. The metal tool that is offered is great except for the price. Did not even consider going that route! My garage purchased Murray (back in 2012 for its deck) is a 1996 or 1997. Just sent a note to Murray for help in determining the model so I can get a parts and instruction booklet. Thanks again!
Hi Roger, glad you found my video helpful. The Jif cap came into play because at that time my son was eating a ton of peanut butter. I save the jars for left over paint, nuts and bolts, a host of things. I saw what the price of the official tool was and like you, said no way. I stood there for a moment, looking around at the stuff on the workbench and saw a spare lid and my box cutters. A little while later I had my new tool. I don't know what a Murray is; outboard??? Never heard of them. Maybe it's supposed to be Mercury. If so, you can go to the Mercury parts catalog site, put in your serial number and look at the parts, get the number(s) and go shopping. www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
@@richward2288 Thanks again! I’m currently putting back in service my 1996-1997 Murray riding mower. I purchased it at a yard sale 10-15 years ago for its mower deck. I then used it for the grandkids to ride around the property. Since then I have been using my other Murray mower for yard work until recently when it developed an oil leak. I have to remove its engine a replace gaskets. In the meantime I needed a machine for yard work. After getting the Murray ready to start I exchanged fuel system - tank, hoses, filter, and on/off valve, then reset valves, air in tires, etc. when I went to start the 16hp Tecumseh Enduro engine it would not start. Then the gear froze. So that’s why I took it apart while waiting on a new one off EBay. So we’ll see later today if it works AND if it starts the engine. Hope so as I need to cut the grass! haha Take care!
This is just what I needed, thank you! I have a 91 Mercury 115 and have been battling starter issues. I ordered a new one and it was dead on arrival. Got another one coming but I might try to rebuild my old one.
After watching this video I’ve done the same to my outboard and what do you know. Fixed it. Thanks for the detail in the video and keep up the good work.
Good video I think the original mercury equipment will last longer than the aftermarket stuff. I have rebuilt many ac delco starters and they were always better than aftermarket stuff gonna give it a try ill let ya know how it turns out.
Will just putting new brushes in make motor run faster or stronger?Mine looked fine,but wires were crusty which could be causing current flow issues?Tore a similar old starter apart today due to starter spinning but Gear will not stay up. Cleaned everything up and still does about the same. Someone suggested starter getting weak?Was trying to think of a tool to hold brushes,,Now I know Jiffy tool is needed..I actually just put armature on and held it down while placing magnet housing down over armature. Worked fine that way also..
I paid $21 for a set of brushes, much easier than trying to clean dirty ones. Check your battery connections at the battery and starter. The SHAFT of the starter gear, the one that engages the flywheel, needs to be lubed. You should be able to manually rotate that gear up to the flywheel. I use Quicksilver 2-4-C, but any water resistant lube will do. With good brushes (cleaned rotor, minimal carbon) charged battery and lubed starter gear shart the starter should be strong.
You can use the Mercury online parts catalog. It's free, you just need your motor's serial number. Follow this link, open the catalog and put your serial number in the box. Then look through the parts for your engine's starter. www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog You can do a Google search for the part number. I got mine off of Amazon.
Nice job 👍 on the video. I also have a 115 hp Merc. My starter hesitates when I turn the ignition key. Is that what you mean by dragging? I bought a new battery and it seems to help some but not 100%. I like the idea of using the Jiffy top. I’ve used a notched expired credit card that worked pretty well.
Yes on the dragging. The starter would hardly crank then it would be okay for a while, then go slow again. I've repaired other starters that had a lot of carbon dust in them, makes a poor contact on the armature. Usually they just need to be cleaned up. I was surprised to find the broken brush.
Thanks for the video! My motor this morning was stuck cranking...even with no key in the ignition! It wasn't until I turned the key again to crank that it stopped cranking. Then when I cranked it started up normally. Then I turned it off and it started up fine again. I did this several times. Is the starter motor a likely culprit in this case too do you think? If so, with this video, it looks like its easy to replace. Thanks!
The starter cranks only because it's getting power. More than likely it is a stuck solenoid, possibly even the ignition key. I would disconnect the battery then open up the solenoid and have a look. It might just be full of carbon and need a cleaning.
@@richward2288 Ah, thanks for the reply! I think I see the solenoid on the mercury parts catalog, but doesn't show where its at. I presume there will be a wire from the POS of the starter that will go to the solenoid? I'll have a closer look when I can get to my engine. Also, could there be something with the bendix sticking instead?
If the Bendix is sticking then it would need some lube on the shaft of the Bendix, but that wouldn't keep it cranking. If the motor started it WOULD keep the starter turning because it's stuck in the flywheel. Another symptom would be the starter turning the Bendix gear but not engaging the flywheel. Lube the shaft of the starter if that's happening. You can manually rotate the gear up a little and put some 2-4-C on it. The solenoid on my motor is a little down and left of the starter, near the bottom cowling. There is a heavy black cable (along the bottom of the case, from the battery) with a red sleeve on it that attaches to the solenoid bottom post. Another heavy black cable with a yellow sleeve comes from the top of the solenoid and connects to the positive post on the starter. There are 2 other, smaller wires on the solenoid that connect to the starter switch. You turn the key and the circuit to the solenoid closes and the solenoid engages, closing the circuit between the two heavy wires. If the solenoid sticks closed or the ignition switch is stuck closed or shorted, the starter will continue to run. Disconnect the black w/yellow sleeve from the solenoid. Reconnect the battery and turn the key. You should hear the solenoid click, then when you release it will click again. If it doesn't click again to release, then that's your problem. It appears sealed so you cannot open and repair. A final test after you remove it would be to apply 12 volts to the smaller wire (left) and ground to the black wire side. That would make the solenoid engage and disengage (or not disengage).
@@richward2288 Alright. This makes perfect sense! This is my first boat, and its a 1999, and it lived in saltwater most of its previous life before coming to freshwater in central NC. I've needed to do alot of small repairs due to (saltwater aided) corrosion and YoutTube has been great. Looks like this is the next thing to change out. Thanks for your video and your quick replies!
I assume you mean bench test. It took only a little while to re-install on the motor and that allowed me to test it under load with the ear muffs on. I rebuilt the starter on my '91 Camry last year and just reinstalled it too. I guess I just have confidence in my mechanical ability. :-)
I just used a drop of 10W30 motor oil. That's the viscosity of 10 weight when cold. I don't expect the motor will ever get hot enough to change the viscosity to 30. Any brand motor oil will do. I think the important thing is 1 drop. They don't want you to over saturate the shaft and have oil spray on the rotor or brushes.
Excellent Video from start to finish, nothing left out and lots of attention to detail. Nothing was assumed! Great Job, Thanks Much
Hi Robert, glad you found it useful. Thanks for the Thanks 🙂
Did the exact same job on my starter, runs like a charm now! Thanks a lot for putting this video up, it was invaluable in the process. Greetings from Sweden!
You're welcome. I'm glad I was able to help you.
Excellent video! Thanks so much for your ingenuity using a Jif plastic bottle cap. I spent about 2 hours trying to get the brushes in then took a break and found your video.
My “tool” is far more crude than yours but after 20 minutes got everything secured. Will try out tomorrow and post results. The metal tool that is offered is great except for the price. Did not even consider going that route! My garage purchased Murray (back in 2012 for its deck) is a 1996 or 1997. Just sent a note to Murray for help in determining the model so I can get a parts and instruction booklet.
Thanks again!
Hi Roger, glad you found my video helpful. The Jif cap came into play because at that time my son was eating a ton of peanut butter. I save the jars for left over paint, nuts and bolts, a host of things. I saw what the price of the official tool was and like you, said no way. I stood there for a moment, looking around at the stuff on the workbench and saw a spare lid and my box cutters. A little while later I had my new tool.
I don't know what a Murray is; outboard??? Never heard of them. Maybe it's supposed to be Mercury. If so, you can go to the Mercury parts catalog site, put in your serial number and look at the parts, get the number(s) and go shopping.
www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
@@richward2288 Thanks again! I’m currently putting back in service my 1996-1997 Murray riding mower. I purchased it at a yard sale 10-15 years ago for its mower deck. I then used it for the grandkids to ride around the property.
Since then I have been using my other Murray mower for yard work until recently when it developed an oil leak. I have to remove its engine a replace gaskets. In the meantime I needed a machine for yard work.
After getting the Murray ready to start I exchanged fuel system - tank, hoses, filter, and on/off valve, then reset valves, air in tires, etc. when I went to start the 16hp Tecumseh Enduro engine it would not start. Then the gear froze. So that’s why I took it apart while waiting on a new one off EBay. So we’ll see later today if it works AND if it starts the engine. Hope so as I need to cut the grass! haha
Take care!
This is just what I needed, thank you! I have a 91 Mercury 115 and have been battling starter issues. I ordered a new one and it was dead on arrival. Got another one coming but I might try to rebuild my old one.
It's really not hard. Maybe you can repair it before the new one arrives
After watching this video I’ve done the same to my outboard and what do you know. Fixed it. Thanks for the detail in the video and keep up the good work.
You're welcome Matthew. Glad I could help
great vid, thanx, hope mine looks this clean inside
Thanks, Mike, good luck on the rebuild. I use CRC contact cleaner for cleaning electrical things; cleans, evaporates and leaves almost no residue
Thank you for the video. You are very informative
Glad it was helpful
Good video I think the original mercury equipment will last longer than the aftermarket stuff.
I have rebuilt many ac delco starters and they were always better than aftermarket stuff gonna give it a try ill let ya know how it turns out.
I'm always happier when I'm able to repair things myself. I'm more particular about my work than the rebuild shops.
Will just putting new brushes in make motor run faster or stronger?Mine looked fine,but wires were crusty which could be causing current flow issues?Tore a similar old starter apart today due to starter spinning but Gear will not stay up. Cleaned everything up and still does about the same. Someone suggested starter getting weak?Was trying to think of a tool to hold brushes,,Now I know Jiffy tool is needed..I actually just put armature on and held it down while placing magnet housing down over armature. Worked fine that way also..
I paid $21 for a set of brushes, much easier than trying to clean dirty ones. Check your battery connections at the battery and starter. The SHAFT of the starter gear, the one that engages the flywheel, needs to be lubed. You should be able to manually rotate that gear up to the flywheel. I use Quicksilver 2-4-C, but any water resistant lube will do. With good brushes (cleaned rotor, minimal carbon) charged battery and lubed starter gear shart the starter should be strong.
Thanks. I was trying it using battery in car with jumpers. How do you find right brushes?
You can use the Mercury online parts catalog. It's free, you just need your motor's serial number. Follow this link, open the catalog and put your serial number in the box. Then look through the parts for your engine's starter. www.mercurymarine.com/en/us/parts-and-accessories/parts-catalog
You can do a Google search for the part number. I got mine off of Amazon.
Nice job 👍 on the video. I also have a 115 hp Merc. My starter hesitates when I turn the ignition key. Is that what you mean by dragging? I bought a new battery and it seems to help some but not 100%. I like the idea of using the Jiffy top. I’ve used a notched expired credit card that worked pretty well.
Yes on the dragging. The starter would hardly crank then it would be okay for a while, then go slow again. I've repaired other starters that had a lot of carbon dust in them, makes a poor contact on the armature. Usually they just need to be cleaned up. I was surprised to find the broken brush.
Thanks for the video! My motor this morning was stuck cranking...even with no key in the ignition! It wasn't until I turned the key again to crank that it stopped cranking. Then when I cranked it started up normally. Then I turned it off and it started up fine again. I did this several times. Is the starter motor a likely culprit in this case too do you think? If so, with this video, it looks like its easy to replace. Thanks!
The starter cranks only because it's getting power. More than likely it is a stuck solenoid, possibly even the ignition key. I would disconnect the battery then open up the solenoid and have a look. It might just be full of carbon and need a cleaning.
@@richward2288 Ah, thanks for the reply! I think I see the solenoid on the mercury parts catalog, but doesn't show where its at. I presume there will be a wire from the POS of the starter that will go to the solenoid? I'll have a closer look when I can get to my engine. Also, could there be something with the bendix sticking instead?
or is the solenoid what the POS from the battery hooks directly into?
If the Bendix is sticking then it would need some lube on the shaft of the Bendix, but that wouldn't keep it cranking. If the motor started it WOULD keep the starter turning because it's stuck in the flywheel. Another symptom would be the starter turning the Bendix gear but not engaging the flywheel. Lube the shaft of the starter if that's happening. You can manually rotate the gear up a little and put some 2-4-C on it.
The solenoid on my motor is a little down and left of the starter, near the bottom cowling. There is a heavy black cable (along the bottom of the case, from the battery) with a red sleeve on it that attaches to the solenoid bottom post. Another heavy black cable with a yellow sleeve comes from the top of the solenoid and connects to the positive post on the starter. There are 2 other, smaller wires on the solenoid that connect to the starter switch. You turn the key and the circuit to the solenoid closes and the solenoid engages, closing the circuit between the two heavy wires. If the solenoid sticks closed or the ignition switch is stuck closed or shorted, the starter will continue to run.
Disconnect the black w/yellow sleeve from the solenoid. Reconnect the battery and turn the key. You should hear the solenoid click, then when you release it will click again. If it doesn't click again to release, then that's your problem. It appears sealed so you cannot open and repair. A final test after you remove it would be to apply 12 volts to the smaller wire (left) and ground to the black wire side. That would make the solenoid engage and disengage (or not disengage).
@@richward2288 Alright. This makes perfect sense! This is my first boat, and its a 1999, and it lived in saltwater most of its previous life before coming to freshwater in central NC. I've needed to do alot of small repairs due to (saltwater aided) corrosion and YoutTube has been great. Looks like this is the next thing to change out. Thanks for your video and your quick replies!
Any reason you didn’t test it before fixing it back on the engine?
I assume you mean bench test. It took only a little while to re-install on the motor and that allowed me to test it under load with the ear muffs on.
I rebuilt the starter on my '91 Camry last year and just reinstalled it too. I guess I just have confidence in my mechanical ability. :-)
Low bearing oil ???? , you said 10 xx oil ! , what oil or grease bearing ( 1 drop) ...thanks
I just used a drop of 10W30 motor oil. That's the viscosity of 10 weight when cold. I don't expect the motor will ever get hot enough to change the viscosity to 30. Any brand motor oil will do. I think the important thing is 1 drop. They don't want you to over saturate the shaft and have oil spray on the rotor or brushes.
I have a Johnson motor.
Well then you're on your own. :-)
There are web sites that can help you. Try thehulltruth.com and iBoats.com I think they have some lookup for parts