Heads up if anyone ever snaps the 2 long bolts that go through the thermostat housing and the water jacket the water jacket is threadless so you can pop that whole cover plate off to weld some nuts onto the bolts.
Hey man, I don't know if you'll see this since it's been 4 years, but I have the exact same motor. How did it go? I can't find any videos on my specific engine.
thanks for video. i have a 1988 merc 115 and my first time doing this. was curious if you cleaned the driveshaft so its shiney again n what did you use , sandpaper?
Dave I was hoping you would come back on here and let us know how you did with changing your impeller? Did you have any trouble putting the lower unit back on? I seem to be stuck trying to get the lower unit back on and in neutral, thanks. (Rusty)
@@dianakesl1814 Hi, i have not been able to get my lower unit off yet, all the bolts are out and i have a strap on it, but it wont come loose. I will come back on here and let everyone know how it all worked out.
@@durangodave Thanks Dave. I've changed my impeller once before but didn't remember how I did it. I was having trouble getting my lower unit off and my wife came out and said "what about that bolt under here?" There was a bolt up in front under that stabilizer fin I didn't see and sure enough I took it out and it fell off, hahaha!!! Maybe she can show me how to get it back on, lol. (Rusty)
Hey question on shifting your motor. I just got a boat with this motor on it and with the motor turned off and I go to shift into reverse, it has a good amount of resistance putting it into reverse, none when coming out of reverse. My question is, do you experience the same, or does it go into reverse just as easy as going into forward? I’ve read online this is normal, but no one has this motor that I’ve come across yet to ask this question. Thx
I've only shifted motor while off for this video I cannot really remember, sorry. If the unit is still shifting and you don't have large chunks of metal on your drain plug magnet I would not worry about it.
@@striker1211 Thanks for your response, appreciate it. Yea I checked the LU fluid first no issues. Since I’ve never owned a Merc and I’ve just started restoring my boat, everything’s apart, I wasn’t sure if this is normal. So I wanted some feed back from an actual current owner instead of going off what I’ve read on older forums that some say it’s normal shifting for these Mercs with the motor turned off because of the way the clutch system is designed. I’m leaning towards believing that because your LU did what has been described when it’s in forward gear and you spin the prop by hand, you hear the spring loading “ratchet” sound. Thanks again man, I like the thorough video, good job. 🤙
I think I did forward. The only reason you leave it in gear is so that you can rotate the prop shaft to help the splines line up. Do not touch the shifter after removing the lower unit though or the gear shifter stem won't line up.
@@striker1211 Damn I think I moved my gear shifter after the lower unit was off. I'm having a hard time now after I put it in forward, I reattached the lower unit. Now it starts in gear, and I can't seem to get it out of gear or into neutral. Any suggestions on how to get it back lined up with the splines? (Rusty)
My hour meter says 1200 but it hasn't worked since I bought the boat in 2013. I don't believe that is too many hours for it but definitely take it for a test drive. I have a video showing what the idle SHOULD sound like if it's running okay. ruclips.net/video/JGVwof_LDkA/видео.html . It's a 24 year old boat so be prepared to learn how to fix things :) That said, other than the thermostat, temp sender, and water pump I haven't had to put much money into mine (knock on wood).
Whichever way the engine spins the drive shaft, it's been so long I can't remember how I found which way it rotated but I'm sure I looked it up. Regardless of which way you put it in though it will straighten itself out, it's just slightly less wear on the rubber fins to put it in the right away originally.
Drop an impact or air ratchet on it, non of this twisting wrenches. I'd lose my job if I took that long. ( Not hating just thought it was funny, good video otherwise :D ) btw that 15 seconds with that little map gas bottle didn't touch that bolt, rule of thumb, 20 thou per 100f of ∆T
@@bigkm1974 yes I work on outboards and drives, are you asking if this video is suitable to change your impeller on your 01 Merc ? And salt water version are very similar, they add extra anodes inside to reduce corrosion.
@@bigkm1974 Yes, the procedure is the same. Remove the Bolts from bottom of the lower unit running into the midsecton. Some Units have a bolt under the cavitation fin plate as well. Drop the lower unit, pull the pump housing off, Usually four bolt. Some units have a mechanical seal between the housing and drive shaft. I recommend using some 3m scotch bright or a green brillow pad, clean the drive shaft and lubricate the shaft with white petroleum jelly before removing the housing, up on the shaft. If you are going to remove the housing right off the shaft (which you have to when replacing the impeller), use some masking tap to cover the splines that enter the power head that are on the shaft that you just cleaned. This will protect the seal from being damaged. Once the housing is removed, remove the impeller, use a screw driver to gain some leverage and pry the impeller against the housing backing plate. it should bring a plastic (some times tin in older outboards) key with it . If not, the key will either be integrated into the impeller, or stuck to the side of a notch on the bottom of the drive shaft, right where the impeller was. That plastic key acts as a failure piece. 99% of the time you wont need to remove the backing plate of the pump. This video, the guy removed it. I would only remove it if it was leaking, otherwise i would leave it. BUT every job is different, so use your discretion. Take the new impeller and position it on the shaft with the key in the right direction. Take some white petroleum jelly and coat the impeller with some, it will help with assembly. Take the housing along with all seals and in the direction of rotation, rotate the drive shaft while applying force to the housing over the impeller. The impeller fins should slowly "fold" or bend inside the housing and the housing should drop into place. You will be shocked by the amount of force you need to apply to the housing to bend the fins in. After all t=of this is done and seals are in place and lubed up, you can throw the fasteners back in, make sure the water feed pick seal is in place, grease the splines of the shaft, put the lower end back up into the mid sections and put the bolts back in and youre done. There are other small things that will vary from motor to motor, but they are all very similar . Let me know if you have any other questions
I just did this exact maintenance procedure on my force 90 and now it's not pumping water uggggg. I've taken it apart 4 times and checked everything. Still no water in the powerhead
Is it just not peeing or did u verify no water is getting up to the thermostat? Bugs make nests in my telltale and I have to clear it out from time to time with mechanic wire. If it's not getting into the top for sure then my first check would be the tube that carries the water up is not clogged or melted.
@@striker1211 water is not getting to the thermostat. I can put the hose on the Pipe where the water pump connects and turn the hose on. Water does move through the block and out the telltale. But if I put the lower unit back on and run the engine the pump pushes no water up
So for my issue we finally found it. The water pump cover has a round "cup" inside. It's just glued in and when the water pump spins it is spinning that cup preventing water from flowing into the power head
I have this exact motor and was able to get the job done thanks to your tutorial. Thanks!
Heads up if anyone ever snaps the 2 long bolts that go through the thermostat housing and the water jacket the water jacket is threadless so you can pop that whole cover plate off to weld some nuts onto the bolts.
I was looking for a DIY how to video to replace the impeller for a 1996 125hp mercury. This looks close. Wish me luck.
Hey man, I don't know if you'll see this since it's been 4 years, but I have the exact same motor. How did it go? I can't find any videos on my specific engine.
@@truettkerby389 it went well. I got the manual in it and got the parts. It’s pretty simple when you get the parts. It’s still running great.
Getting ready to tackle my 2000 125 lol. I need good luck
Great video helped me alot . Quick question do you have a 20" shaft or a 25" on your motor? thanks in advance
I have never needed to replace it so I do not know the size off hand, sorry.
those are safety nuts he's heating. they should never be heated or you melt the plastic inserts in the nuts and they are no good.
True, but that’s what he had to do to remove them. They must be replaced after heating.
Good video
Universal wrench - classic. All bolts come off when molten.
thanks for video. i have a 1988 merc 115 and my first time doing this. was curious if you cleaned the driveshaft so its shiney again n what did you use , sandpaper?
Dave I was hoping you would come back on here and let us know how you did with changing your impeller? Did you have any trouble putting the lower unit back on? I seem to be stuck trying to get the lower unit back on and in neutral, thanks. (Rusty)
@@dianakesl1814 Hi, i have not been able to get my lower unit off yet, all the bolts are out and i have a strap on it, but it wont come loose. I will come back on here and let everyone know how it all worked out.
@@durangodave Thanks Dave. I've changed my impeller once before but didn't remember how I did it. I was having trouble getting my lower unit off and my wife came out and said "what about that bolt under here?" There was a bolt up in front under that stabilizer fin I didn't see and sure enough I took it out and it fell off, hahaha!!! Maybe she can show me how to get it back on, lol. (Rusty)
turn the shaft when putting the cap on,,
Hey question on shifting your motor. I just got a boat with this motor on it and with the motor turned off and I go to shift into reverse, it has a good amount of resistance putting it into reverse, none when coming out of reverse.
My question is, do you experience the same, or does it go into reverse just as easy as going into forward?
I’ve read online this is normal, but no one has this motor that I’ve come across yet to ask this question. Thx
I've only shifted motor while off for this video I cannot really remember, sorry. If the unit is still shifting and you don't have large chunks of metal on your drain plug magnet I would not worry about it.
@@striker1211 Thanks for your response, appreciate it. Yea I checked the LU fluid first no issues. Since I’ve never owned a Merc and I’ve just started restoring my boat, everything’s apart, I wasn’t sure if this is normal. So I wanted some feed back from an actual current owner instead of going off what I’ve read on older forums that some say it’s normal shifting for these Mercs with the motor turned off because of the way the clutch system is designed. I’m leaning towards believing that because your LU did what has been described when it’s in forward gear and you spin the prop by hand, you hear the spring loading “ratchet” sound. Thanks again man, I like the thorough video, good job. 🤙
Which way did you rotate the prop while trying to put together.
When they don’t want to come out I use my trusty breaker bar ; it helps !
yeah, nothing more fun than getting broken studs out ...
Man I just did mine could line the gear selector now it’s stuck in gear
The white material is or should be antiseaze
I wonder if this is same as my 94 150 mercury
Probably a long shot since this is three years old but what is the serial number off the lower?
I just checked and don't see a serial on the lower unit anywhere. The engine serial is 0G306*** the last 3 are faded
Before removing the lower unit what gear is recommended forward or reverse gear.
I think I did forward. The only reason you leave it in gear is so that you can rotate the prop shaft to help the splines line up. Do not touch the shifter after removing the lower unit though or the gear shifter stem won't line up.
@@striker1211 cheers mate 👍
@@striker1211 Damn I think I moved my gear shifter after the lower unit was off. I'm having a hard time now after I put it in forward, I reattached the lower unit. Now it starts in gear, and I can't seem to get it out of gear or into neutral. Any suggestions on how to get it back lined up with the splines? (Rusty)
Hello, 600 hours of use is a lot for that engine?
My hour meter says 1200 but it hasn't worked since I bought the boat in 2013. I don't believe that is too many hours for it but definitely take it for a test drive. I have a video showing what the idle SHOULD sound like if it's running okay. ruclips.net/video/JGVwof_LDkA/видео.html . It's a 24 year old boat so be prepared to learn how to fix things :) That said, other than the thermostat, temp sender, and water pump I haven't had to put much money into mine (knock on wood).
@@striker1211 Thank you very much, how many liters or gallons do you consume per hour? greetings from Argentina
I though the impeller goes in counter clockwise?
Whichever way the engine spins the drive shaft, it's been so long I can't remember how I found which way it rotated but I'm sure I looked it up. Regardless of which way you put it in though it will straighten itself out, it's just slightly less wear on the rubber fins to put it in the right away originally.
Como remover powetrem
Great video, thanks. So no need to drain the lower unit oil first?
So the drive shaft could be shined up with alittle sand paper....Caught that tidbit in another video. Thanks for this video by the way.
Drop an impact or air ratchet on it, non of this twisting wrenches. I'd lose my job if I took that long. ( Not hating just thought it was funny, good video otherwise :D ) btw that 15 seconds with that little map gas bottle didn't touch that bolt, rule of thumb, 20 thou per 100f of ∆T
Steve bensler are u a marine mechanic and is this the same for an 01 merc 150 saltwater engine? Thanx
@@bigkm1974 yes I work on outboards and drives, are you asking if this video is suitable to change your impeller on your 01 Merc ? And salt water version are very similar, they add extra anodes inside to reduce corrosion.
Yes is this the same procedeure on my merc? Gettn ready to do it and never done it before, thanx
@@bigkm1974 Yes, the procedure is the same. Remove the Bolts from bottom of the lower unit running into the midsecton. Some Units have a bolt under the cavitation fin plate as well. Drop the lower unit, pull the pump housing off, Usually four bolt. Some units have a mechanical seal between the housing and drive shaft. I recommend using some 3m scotch bright or a green brillow pad, clean the drive shaft and lubricate the shaft with white petroleum jelly before removing the housing, up on the shaft. If you are going to remove the housing right off the shaft (which you have to when replacing the impeller), use some masking tap to cover the splines that enter the power head that are on the shaft that you just cleaned. This will protect the seal from being damaged. Once the housing is removed, remove the impeller, use a screw driver to gain some leverage and pry the impeller against the housing backing plate. it should bring a plastic (some times tin in older outboards) key with it . If not, the key will either be integrated into the impeller, or stuck to the side of a notch on the bottom of the drive shaft, right where the impeller was. That plastic key acts as a failure piece. 99% of the time you wont need to remove the backing plate of the pump. This video, the guy removed it. I would only remove it if it was leaking, otherwise i would leave it. BUT every job is different, so use your discretion. Take the new impeller and position it on the shaft with the key in the right direction. Take some white petroleum jelly and coat the impeller with some, it will help with assembly. Take the housing along with all seals and in the direction of rotation, rotate the drive shaft while applying force to the housing over the impeller. The impeller fins should slowly "fold" or bend inside the housing and the housing should drop into place. You will be shocked by the amount of force you need to apply to the housing to bend the fins in. After all t=of this is done and seals are in place and lubed up, you can throw the fasteners back in, make sure the water feed pick seal is in place, grease the splines of the shaft, put the lower end back up into the mid sections and put the bolts back in and youre done.
There are other small things that will vary from motor to motor, but they are all very similar .
Let me know if you have any other questions
I just did this exact maintenance procedure on my force 90 and now it's not pumping water uggggg. I've taken it apart 4 times and checked everything. Still no water in the powerhead
Is it just not peeing or did u verify no water is getting up to the thermostat? Bugs make nests in my telltale and I have to clear it out from time to time with mechanic wire. If it's not getting into the top for sure then my first check would be the tube that carries the water up is not clogged or melted.
@@striker1211 water is not getting to the thermostat. I can put the hose on the Pipe where the water pump connects and turn the hose on. Water does move through the block and out the telltale. But if I put the lower unit back on and run the engine the pump pushes no water up
James Jestes How do you change the thermostat and the nanny mercury it’s about 20 years old
How do you change the thermostat and the nanny mercury outboard motor
So for my issue we finally found it. The water pump cover has a round "cup" inside. It's just glued in and when the water pump spins it is spinning that cup preventing water from flowing into the power head
Don't put any synthetic sealers anywhere