Valid points all. I've pulled my fair share of power heads and I think the most important takeaway is this: The worst thing you can do to a boat is not use it. I'm retired and use my boat at least 4 days a week but usually more in saltwater. I don't flush unless I know I'm not going to use the boat for a while in which case I do flush before any time of storage. What you want to avoid is scaling build up in the cooling galleys. When scaling build up happens, the rust tends to flake up and clog those cooling galleys. If you use your boat on a regular basis like I do, the rust doesn't have a chance to form/build up because every time you use the boat the rust or scaling is flushed out the exhaust and doesn't have a chance to build up. Just my two cents. Great video, thx.
One of the best gauges you can have on an outboard power boat is a cooling water pressure gauge. Gives you a reference to impellor condition while running so you can recognise any changes.
its great for telling pump condition, but if it drops at high speed damage will occur (atleast on 2 strokes) before you know whats happening, and just before your warning horn goes off. of course reducing speed to idle and tapping the primer will help save the cylinders, but most boaters arent experienced enough to know to do that.
My 2021 mercury 90 owners manual says to flush using the flush attachment without running, so that’s what I do. I trust the engineers who designed the darn thing. Why run if not necessary. Also could void warranty if you don’t follow manual instructions.
I flush after every use since I run in salt water. Every 2 years I change the thermostat so when that’s due I remove the old one and put the housing back on without a thermostat in place. After dropping the lower I mix up some Rydlyme in a 5 gallon bucket, drop in a sump pump and use a old piece of garden hose in the water inlet tube and let it cycle for 3-4 hours. When complete I change the internal anodes and everything looks brand new. Probably overkill but it’s worked well for me
Great information. I have owned boats for 30 years and this is always a question that goes back and forth among friends with several differing opinions.
I always flush my 200 in a large barrel. If you want to tune up your motor, it's wise to check out your adjustments with the motor in a barrel since it has thru hub exhaust. I've made carburetor adjustments in the past and used mouse ears to test it, only to find out the motor runs differently when it's in the water and the exhaust is under pressure.
This is an excellent video….with no nonsense, no shenanigans and no silly attempts at being some kind of “video star”…..I appreciated your style and information. I run a 170 Montauk in Southern California- as soon we pull her out we rinse down all hull and internal surfaces, then while towel drying we always flush the engine for the time it takes to dry up and store everything back. I agree with your categories….and requirements
As an over 40 year mechanic, having worked on most everything under the sun, I apply an industrial diesel standard, by coating the coolant passageways with an epoxy coating, to protect bare metal surfaces from corrosion, the very important thing is, complete and proper surface preparation BEFORE the epoxy coating, and not to over-do the epoxy coating, this includes the head and jackets around the cylinders.
B.S. Yamaha impeller sits in stainless cup that sits in nylon housing. It is the nylon housing that will melt when only using flush attachment. Put the muffs on it like the yamaha owners manuel states if you are running it. Flush attachment is for flushing without running the engine.
Yamaha does state to flush without motor running using flush attachment in owners manuals Mercury says it's ok to idle with flush attachment Tohatsu hmm depends if it's a Honda or tohatsu varies on this. Don't know about Suzy's
My boat stays on trailer, the 2022 Yamaha 250 SHO has multiple intake ports where muffs will not work, so I purchased a flush bag (expensive but works great). After a day fishing, even if I don't have time to wash the boat, the engine is flushed with water, then flushed with salt away. Also soak down the entire boat and trailer with salt away, rinse well then wash the following day.
The BEST resource for Real Boat and engine maintenance. Debunking "Bro Captain" myths, backed by real experience and knowledge. I've run out boards for 20 years, with three times a year "salt away" flushes. When you add too much work at the end of a boating day, it makes you use your boat less often. The "every time flushing" obsession, is overkill... Thanks for the great channel.
I use a bucket. Submerge the entire lower unit plus another 2" minimum. Putting the entire impeller under water. Meaning it doesn't need to LIFT water from the muffs before it can even lube/cool the impeller. Had some bad experiences with Yamaha on muffs, burned up brand new impellers (lubed on install with boot butter). It also puts some backpressure on the exhaust, giving a more realistic idle to see how it runs. And providing a muffler. The bucket is an old plastic 55 gallon drum. Originally held Merc's -100 antifreeze used in winterizing inboards. Cut the top off with a long sawzall metal blade, drill a hole for a rubber drain plug in the bottom. Near the top, drill a 1/8" hole about 2" down and a 1/8th slot going down from the top to the same height as the drilled hole an inch away from it. Then take an 1/8th thich rope, tie a knot in one end. Feed the united end in the hole from the outside going in, knot stops it from going all the way through. Then put the hose between the hole and the slot, pull free end of rope down into slot tightly around hose. Mark where it comes out of the bucket, knot there. Leave a 6" tail to pull the rope in and out of slot with. That holds your hose in place in the bucket and away from the prop. Plastic 55 gallon drums can be bought as survival or rainwater barrels.
Thanks, awesome video. Thanks for clarifying the flushing on the flush port while the engine is running. Usually only do it before an oil change to heat up the oil before changing it. All other times I flush as soon I get back to my slip.
Will Aaron, I was a little skeptical about running your engine while on the flush attachment. So today, to warm the motor before changing the oil in my 2015 40 Yamaha I gave it a try. Ran it for 10 minutes or so at idle and no problems at all. The good thing about this method is, my motor won't pump water while on the moths. I either need to put it in a bucket or now use the flush attachment.
Living in North Queensland Australia, I have always flushed the engine with some muffs at the wash-down bays provided as soon as I get in, then again when I get home and give the boat a real clean. But will have to find a large bin for flushing at home I think.
Great informative videos, thank you. You did not mention boats on lifts, which is probably a small minority compared to trailered boats. I live in salt water FL canal and always flush my motor as soon as I get it on the lift while the thermostats are still warm and open. Of course the thermostats probably cool and close soon, at least I get a minute of open flush.
Another great video. Your presentations are always articulate, engaging and to the point. It’s nice to have the flush attachment explained after all these years of having one. As a northern boater I don’t like you say worry much about doing it though. By the time I’ve run it on the muffs warm enough to change the oil at season’s end I figure whatever little silt is in there is probably gone. Those pics of salt water motor cores dissolving into nothing really hurts! 😰
I'm still using a 1999 Honda that I bought new in 99' and has been run year round in salt ever since. I let it run on the muffs 10-15 min after every trip (while I wash the rest of the boat), and if I make a long run I'll let it idle for a few minutes to cool it down before turning it off to prevent the salt water from cooking in there. Maybe I'm lucky, or maybe these things really help. The exceptions are when I'm down in the keys or another place where it's going to be in the water for several days, then I don't bother flushing until the trip is over.
I have been unable to use my 181/2 ft boat for a year. Honda 50 main and Honda 9.9 kicker.I fire each motor up in a tank once every month and run between 15 and 20 min.at approx.1200rpm. No milky looking oil if I run it 15-20 min. Run the kiker for only 5 min and condensation forms in engine oil so I get it good and warm befor I shut it off. The muffs fall off too easily. If I dont run it once a month the telltale plugs up with salt.I hope to start using the boat again next week. Viewing in Westcoast Canada. P.S. Boat lives out of water on a trailer. I kept boats tied up in the water and used them frequently when I was younger.CHEERS!!!
Been working as outboard mechanic since 1976. Old Mercury outboard motors dissolved in 70s 80s then got better with new aluminum stainless was used. We still have a few old Evinrude Johnson's from 1970s still running in salt water here on Long Island NY. Colder northern water .. Yamaha outboard excellent but now seem to have corrosion issues after 25 years on mid sections mounts exhaust housings rotted . Mercs also had tiny impeller and brass hubs often spun inside rubber melting power heads which had no alarm. I built old tower of power inline 6 nightmare motors . Hard to stop oxidation of metal in salt water with electrolysis also. I run my motor in fresh water with Dawn dish soap after end of season . I have a 1976 40 hp Johnson never flushed still good.
@@paulmoss7940 water pump impeller thermostat and no VRO oil injection system run 50:1 premix . Never overheat them. Check overheat alarm horn is working. Change lower oil a few times a season Will last forever. I rebuilt so so many of these.
Up here on the British Columbia coast I don't know of anyone who flushes their outboards except maybe at the end of the season when they haul out. Plenty of old motors and no issues that I'm aware.
I have a 2001 Mercury 2 stroke 125. I added the coastal flush kit and hook it up as soon as I pull in the slip. Didn't have it for a few years and I do all my own maintenance and service. The amount of salt built up and corrosion is noticeably less since adding the flush, especially around the Tstat and the block where the tstat sits.
While keeping up with the flushing is important, if you care about appearance, so is prevention of the corrosion taking place on the underside of your T top shown at 13:30.
I dont use my boat often enough so I always flush after use in salt water and I always use Saltaway or other similar salt neutralising liquids . I also use the saltaway to rinse the boat trailer , so far so good with no motor issues or rust on the trailer.
I use a pressure washer to blast all the salt off then you can rub your finger on the motor and taste it to make sure it's all clean of salt no need to run it at all.
I owned a 2003 Yamaha 115 two stroke. I ran one hose on the flush attachment and earmuffs on the lower unit. I never had issues with the impeller when I replaced it.
My boat stays on the water at the marina from June to October. This year the weather was very dry and flushing engines was forbidden, as well as cleaning boats with fresh water. I've been feeling bad for that as the Suzuki dealer told me that could quickly ruin my engine. Your video tends to be more positive! Thank you for the great content of your channel.
@@gillesgomez3091 That is ridiculous! Here in the US on the East Coast even when we had drought conditions boaters were still allowed to rinse (not wash) their boats and flush their engines!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 I do agree with you but they said everyone must make an effort to use less water. I'm sure it did not save much water, but it is kind of a symbol.
I fish the Indian river, which is, for all practical purposes, salt water. About every three or four months, I submerge my Yamaha 50 horse 2 stroke in a 100 gallon tub and add about 6 gallons of white vinegar, and several good squirts of Dawn detergent. I let it run at about 1000 to 1500 RPMs for about 20 minutes, flushing again with regular fresh water for about 5 mins. afterwards. It seems to remove all of the salt and mineral deposits in my water jackets and thermostat housing. What do you think of my method of cleaning the cooling system on my outboard??? Just wanting to do the best thing for my engine to keep her running well.
vinegar is acidic, ad will eventually damage the brass water tube and parts of the cooling system if you just let it sit in there. what does your manual say>? never seen a single manual from any manufacturer recommend acetic acid as a safe cleaning agent.
Firm believer of flushing and salt away....Whether it's a muff or the hose attachment.....I've never had an overheating problem.....The last engine replacement I pulled the head to show the passages to the buyer and the passages were very clean....He's still using a 20 year old Johnson!!
You nailed it Wes. Flush em and they’ll treat you right for a long time Personally I’ve used all 3 methods he mentioned here. If the boat is in the lift it goes on the flush port, if in the driveway it’s going in a bucket, if I pass a lake on the way home from the salt, I stop at the ramp.
I have a 07 Yamaha 115 2 stroke abd i flush every time after use even in mostly fresh/brackish water down here in south Louisiana i hook my muffs up first let the motor get back nice and hot say fot like 10 minutes then i disconnected the . muffs and hook up to the flush port and let it flush about 20 more minutes might be a little excessive but im wanting my motor to last the rest of my life
I service around 200 outboards a year. Salt is the enemy of marine engines & "need" servicing to clean the salt out of the thermostat cooling chambers. We only service around 2 or 3 purely fresh water engines & the difference in the engine condition is staggering. The biggest customer mistake is thinking that if they rarely use the boat the better it will be, but the opposite is more true. Use it often to keep the water moving. Whatever you do, don't EVER leave a cover on the engine. This causes sweating & massive damage.
Yes I now do. Thanks. With my 25 Yamaha 2 stroke, as I used it almost every day, I only flushed it if it was going to sit a while. Seemed to work for me.
That is very poor thinking and you should change your ways, Anytime you start your engine you should flush it even if it was only running for a minute!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 This motor/s have are/have been on my RIB inflatable. I am out cruising and living on anchor. My dingy is my car. It is used daily and a lot. I flush if I am going to store it. I change the Lower unit oil and pump impeller at specified intervals and have never had issues. Mostly Yamaha Enduro. The 25 was not an Enduro. Just good luck? I don’t think so. No way could I flush it after each use and I don’t know any cruisers that live on the anchor and are daily active with there dingy that do.
I live by the Great Lakes we put the lower unit in barrels or fish tanks submerge it it’s all freshwater anyhow we flush to get the zebra mussels and stuff like that from accumulating
Do you end the flush with salt away? When the soap shows up after we hook up the salt away we shut the engines down and the engines appear to perform much better. We also put a light flush of salt away on the reels after rinsing and the guy who services them has commented on how clean they are.
I have a 2022 Yamaha 150 and tried this... the overheat alarm came on after repeated tries with the motor running. Called the dealer and they said the entire foot needs to be submerged if running. Best is to flush without the motor running. Point is...follow the manufacturers recommendations.
I run in salt water. I’ve had mechanics say To flush on muffs until the thermostat opens. Hot water is better on salt accumulation. Possibly the water volume was too low?
I have a 2020 60 HP Mercury on the back of a 150 BW Montauk. Its stays in a slip in salt water from April to October. I run it a couple of times a week on average. I flush after every run every time from the flush port with the engine idling and tilted out of the salt water. Everyone that sees me do that says that I shouldn't. The only problem with that is, the Mercury manual clearly states that you can idle the engine with water connected to the flush port with the motor tilted. Even the local Boston Whaler dealer told me I should not do that. I show them the Mercury manual and they don't want to believe what it says. So finally I call Mercury Tech support and guess what, I was told that it is perfectly fine to run the engine tilted out of the salt water with clean water connected to the flush port as long as the engine is idled. Case closed for me. By the way it was much easier and faster to get to a live person at Mercury Tech support than what I was expecting.
Water pressure alone shouldn't be your only gauge. You need to consider flow rate as well. You can have high pressure, but not enough water volume. Pressure is not volume.
You actually can’t flush the engine on the flush attachment without the lower unit attached, because the water directly flows down towards the the same tube that is used when what is sent to the motor just the opposite direction . , directly shoots water down to the lower unit to build up back pressure as well as to ensure filling up that area with water, which is exactly where the impeller is. It will have just as much water as if you put the muffs on it. All good advice here, my grandfather never would rev the engine without the big old trash can.
I rarely flush .. and only on muffs ... But I run 250-300 hrs per year... and at least 1/2 an hour each weekend... Twin 150 etecs now .. I keep the boat in the water 10-11 months a year. New impellers and thermostats every two years (500 to 600) hours Never had cooling issues ... I can see flushing after use in dirty water, or before storing for several weeks.. but I have put 2000 hrs on sets of out boards .. approaching 10,000 hours of experience of not flushing after each use .. in salt water ...without cooling issues..
It’s my understanding that on Verados the flush attachment pushes water through internal ports of the block in the opposite direction to that which the impeller pushes it. Wouldn’t running the engine using the flush attachment create a “stalemate” for water flow, even though the engine does over heat? The second thought is that during normal operation there are internal ports that go from a larger diameter to a small diameter (often where blockages occur). Creating good “reverse” flow volume using the flush port, without the engine running, helps clear these small transitions by pushing flow from the smaller diameter to the larger diameter. Not sure if any of this is accurate; just what’s published on the. Verado Owner’s site (before it closed down). Your thoughts?
My 1980 Mercury 90hp straight six motor still runs excellent. Only used in salt water twice, then flushed by running it in a freshwater lake the very next day. It's my Tower of Power for my jet sled.
Great Video Aaron. I have a 2021 Yamaha SHO 200hp 20" Shaft. I use my boat about 1-3 times a week in S.W Florida. Mostly Brackish water. (Charlotte Harbor) My boat lives on a boat lift, I flush it very time I get back within 10 Minutes. I use the flush attachment on the engine. My Question is how long should I run the engine for? Something else, when I start the water flush I see that water is coming out of all the port on the lower unit, including the water pump intake vents, as soon as I start the enging the water that was coming out of the intake vents stops! Just want to make sure that the impeller is getting enough water. Thanks
wouldn't be a good idea to idle the engine with the hose attachment long enough for the thermostat to open, so everything gets flushed? Btw, who's the girl in blue t-shirt?
Years of inshore saltwater fishing..... DOGGING out my 9.9 Mercury 2001 I bought in 2015..... NEVER flushed it. I changed the impeller in 2018.... looked brand new. Never gonna change it again. Still on the water 2-3 times a week. Still never flush it.
Im going to run rydlyme in a 5gal bucket. The thurmostat should open up when it heats up the water a bit. Ill shut it off and let it soak before it gets too hot.
My boat spends a ton of time in lakes as well as tons of time in salt. In the lake it doesn't even cross my mind. When it goes in salt it gets flushed via ear muffs with salt away adaptor idling until it warms up, unless it getting put in the lake within 12-24 hours then I don't flush it.
My thermostats are gutted. They're there in place but gutted. I live in west central Florida, and the water is never so cold anyway. Oh, and I do flush every time, indle only on muffs. It a 2000 Yamaha 115.
salt water very hot country suzuki 250x2 i flush 10 min by the flushing port at every sorties but it's not enought (have to open the engine to see the build up pretty badly) now every 300H (major servicing) before changing the anode and impeller we run bernacle buster in cycle for 2H inside the engine we hope to keep good cleaning that way
Very informative video. My outboards run in fresh water. The only time I flush the engine is when I've ran it through shallow water or water that is real muddy. And last but not least, a little common sense goes a long way.
you guys are amazing i hate to ask this but im hoping for some help i have a 225 optimax outboard i can not flush that motor for the life of me, i used the ear muffs no pissing, i bought a strap that plugs the front of the lower unit no pissing, tried the back of the engine method no pissing but when the lower unit is submerge in the water/ ocean perfect pissing. i really hope you may have the answer for me. also i changed the water pump nothing changed.
I have burned 1 impeller on flushing device 2003 mer sw 150 efi 2 stroke and then asked my marina to do a compression check. After that compression check prior not using the boat in a year, burned the impeller. I dont run my engine on flush device anymore only barrels.
I flushed using muffs and salt off with motor running for 10ish mins EVERY time i use my boat (salt water in Hawaii). After changing the thermostat (for the first time/300hrs) and seeing some salt build up, I was a bit shocked. I now flush using BOTH the flush point and muffs, both with salt off container full twice with motor running for 10ish mins. I'm coming up on time to do another thermostat... time will tell if it is working.
With all being said I put sealer on my new outboards flush access plug and stick with the Drum I’ve used for 50 years, I also fabricated a bag to use at the dock ,Slip it over the lower unit up the housing fill with water.Neve failed me yet.No guessing!
Note new 4 stroke Yamaha's have a fuel cooling circuit. If you don't keep the salt out of it especially silt from running in dirty water it will block it up & your motor will not idle for long when it is hot.
One important item you did not talk about is invasive species that can travel from one lake to another if you do not flush you engine as well as live wells.
I have a 2018 Mercury 40hp 4 stroke in salt water. When fresh water flushing I never have a tell tale draining out is that normal when using the flushing attachment?
Great video, my son lives onboard in Coco Plum and I hope you two meet someday. Great information, we live in Michigan but I still love your channel and the information you share.
Sweet!. I’ve got a pair of L4 175 Verados on my cat. I’ve been wondering what would be the best way to flush em after every trip, your input has been appreciated!.
I haven't had the ability to flush my motor this season since I moved and don't have access to a hose. I have had 0 issue so far. I run a 40hp 2020 Merc. My flow has been exactly the same as before. I was afraid it would be an issue but back in the 90s my pop never flushed our engines and in 20 years of hard use
The point to flushing a cold, freshwater only engine is to clear out any Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) which often get sucked up through the intakes. If you pick up an AIS through your motor's cooling system and do not flush it before relaunching it, you stand a very good chance of accidentally spreading AIS - a crime in many states despite any lack of intent.
Something else to remember are your zinc anodes .. super important to help avoid corrosion of the aluminum engine parts… flushing just as important .. I use a half drum and run for at least 15 min after every use on my smaller engines
I'm glad you went into detail about where the water is coming out. I'm new to boat ownership and not to many people in my area like Johnson's, even mechanics don't know slot about older one's. I haven't been using my boat frequently so I am planning on using alot of your suggestions.
Inboard motor folks say pressuring the intake water system with dockside water (which can be quite high) is not good. In this case a valved hose fitting plumbed before the strainer is used to provide the fresh water, but an open end of an intermediate hose from the flush fitting is dropped in a bucket of fresh water where the engine can draw as much as it needs, not forced.
The flush attachment was invented for california emissions. So you didnt have to run the motor. I always flush with saltaway on ear muffs. It makes a huge difference
On my boat I have two 2018 df 140. In one of them I got the code 1-1. The gage reads 17V average. It goes up and down from 15.6Vto 17.8V. When I start the engine, it shows 11.2V and after a minute or so goes up to 17v like I describe above. I cleaned battery terminals and cable connectors. I purchased and installed a new rectifier regulator. I switched the batteries. The problem is still there. What else I can do?
I didn't hear anything about zinc sacrificial anodes that are in the cooling system of salt water motors. If you don't flush the salt out of the cooling system, the anodes corrode faster and if they corrode completely away the engine will corrode. Always flush after running an outboard in salt water.
The thing is you need to flush the engine with acid and remove thermostats you can check my tutorial how to do it on honda engine make it so it goes in circles for about 2hours to remove salt
I would add: use water softener in areas with very hard water. I flush religiously and before my softener, the engines looked like I never flushed. Added the softener and it makes HUGE difference
I've always use the ears and made sure the water came out before the flush my Drumming with a 240 Volvo and my 9.5 Evenrude never had any problems and always at idle
I have a Honda 150hp (2004) and the boat is on the water 3/4 moths and my question is if i flush the engines from that hose in the engines do i have too tilted the engines down and gravity do the job or when is tilted up have to start the engines too flush…because i have try flush tilted but didn’t start the engines and the house with the pressure come off…
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Valid points all. I've pulled my fair share of power heads and I think the most important takeaway is this: The worst thing you can do to a boat is not use it. I'm retired and use my boat at least 4 days a week but usually more in saltwater. I don't flush unless I know I'm not going to use the boat for a while in which case I do flush before any time of storage. What you want to avoid is scaling build up in the cooling galleys. When scaling build up happens, the rust tends to flake up and clog those cooling galleys. If you use your boat on a regular basis like I do, the rust doesn't have a chance to form/build up because every time you use the boat the rust or scaling is flushed out the exhaust and doesn't have a chance to build up. Just my two cents. Great video, thx.
noted
One of the best gauges you can have on an outboard power boat is a cooling water pressure gauge. Gives you a reference to impellor condition while running so you can recognise any changes.
its great for telling pump condition, but if it drops at high speed damage will occur (atleast on 2 strokes) before you know whats happening, and just before your warning horn goes off. of course reducing speed to idle and tapping the primer will help save the cylinders, but most boaters arent experienced enough to know to do that.
Up here in panhandle of FL. I flush it warm until the water out the bottom doesn’t taste salty. 😝
That is exactly what ido.. people look at me goofy for doing so glad to know I'm not the only one
My 2021 mercury 90 owners manual says to flush using the flush attachment without running, so that’s what I do. I trust the engineers who designed the darn thing. Why run if not necessary. Also could void warranty if you don’t follow manual instructions.
I flush after every use since I run in salt water. Every 2 years I change the thermostat so when that’s due I remove the old one and put the housing back on without a thermostat in place. After dropping the lower I mix up some Rydlyme in a 5 gallon bucket, drop in a sump pump and use a old piece of garden hose in the water inlet tube and let it cycle for 3-4 hours. When complete I change the internal anodes and everything looks brand new. Probably overkill but it’s worked well for me
That is to a tee exactly what I do. Well done.
Keep up the good work.
Q
That's the way to go. Thanks for the comment
Agree. I like overkill too when it comes to marine, aviation and offroad stuff. Keep up the good stuff!
Great information. I have owned boats for 30 years and this is always a question that goes back and forth among friends with several differing opinions.
I always flush my 200 in a large barrel. If you want to tune up your motor, it's wise to check out your adjustments with the motor in a barrel since it has thru hub exhaust. I've made carburetor adjustments in the past and used mouse ears to test it, only to find out the motor runs differently when it's in the water and the exhaust is under pressure.
This is an excellent video….with no nonsense, no shenanigans and no silly attempts at being some kind of “video star”…..I appreciated your style and information. I run a 170 Montauk in Southern California- as soon we pull her out we rinse down all hull and internal surfaces, then while towel drying we always flush the engine for the time it takes to dry up and store everything back. I agree with your categories….and requirements
Well thank you! PS: Love the 170 Montauk!
As an over 40 year mechanic, having worked on most everything under the sun, I apply an industrial diesel standard, by coating the coolant passageways with an epoxy coating, to protect bare metal surfaces from corrosion, the very important thing is, complete and proper surface preparation BEFORE the epoxy coating, and not to over-do the epoxy coating, this includes the head and jackets around the cylinders.
B.S. Yamaha impeller sits in stainless cup that sits in nylon housing. It is the nylon housing that will melt when only using flush attachment. Put the muffs on it like the yamaha owners manuel states if you are running it. Flush attachment is for flushing without running the engine.
True hot exhaust may do that if ran a long time
Yamaha does state to flush without motor running using flush attachment in owners manuals
Mercury says it's ok to idle with flush attachment
Tohatsu hmm depends if it's a Honda or tohatsu varies on this. Don't know about Suzy's
My boat stays on trailer, the 2022 Yamaha 250 SHO has multiple intake ports where muffs will not work, so I purchased a flush bag (expensive but works great). After a day fishing, even if I don't have time to wash the boat, the engine is flushed with water, then flushed with salt away. Also soak down the entire boat and trailer with salt away, rinse well then wash the following day.
The BEST resource for Real Boat and engine maintenance. Debunking "Bro Captain" myths, backed by real experience and knowledge. I've run out boards for 20 years, with three times a year "salt away" flushes. When you add too much work at the end of a boating day, it makes you use your boat less often. The "every time flushing" obsession, is overkill...
Thanks for the great channel.
I use a bucket. Submerge the entire lower unit plus another 2" minimum. Putting the entire impeller under water.
Meaning it doesn't need to LIFT water from the muffs before it can even lube/cool the impeller.
Had some bad experiences with Yamaha on muffs, burned up brand new impellers (lubed on install with boot butter).
It also puts some backpressure on the exhaust, giving a more realistic idle to see how it runs. And providing a muffler.
The bucket is an old plastic 55 gallon drum. Originally held Merc's -100 antifreeze used in winterizing inboards.
Cut the top off with a long sawzall metal blade, drill a hole for a rubber drain plug in the bottom.
Near the top, drill a 1/8" hole about 2" down and a 1/8th slot going down from the top to the same height as the drilled hole an inch away from it. Then take an 1/8th thich rope, tie a knot in one end. Feed the united end in the hole from the outside going in, knot stops it from going all the way through. Then put the hose between the hole and the slot, pull free end of rope down into slot tightly around hose. Mark where it comes out of the bucket, knot there. Leave a 6" tail to pull the rope in and out of slot with. That holds your hose in place in the bucket and away from the prop.
Plastic 55 gallon drums can be bought as survival or rainwater barrels.
Thanks, awesome video. Thanks for clarifying the flushing on the flush port while the engine is running. Usually only do it before an oil change to heat up the oil before changing it. All other times I flush as soon I get back to my slip.
Will Aaron, I was a little skeptical about running your engine while on the flush attachment. So today, to warm the motor before changing the oil in my 2015 40 Yamaha I gave it a try. Ran it for 10 minutes or so at idle and no problems at all.
The good thing about this method is, my motor won't pump water while on the moths. I either need to put it in a bucket or now use the flush attachment.
Living in North Queensland Australia, I have always flushed the engine with some muffs at the wash-down bays provided as soon as I get in, then again when I get home and give the boat a real clean. But will have to find a large bin for flushing at home I think.
Great informative videos, thank you. You did not mention boats on lifts, which is probably a small minority compared to trailered boats. I live in salt water FL canal and always flush my motor as soon as I get it on the lift while the thermostats are still warm and open. Of course the thermostats probably cool and close soon, at least I get a minute of open flush.
Great info! I use a flush bag. But, when I don't have the bag I take the thermostats out before I flush. Also flush with barnacle buster every year.
Another great video. Your presentations are always articulate, engaging and to the point. It’s nice to have the flush attachment explained after all these years of having one. As a northern boater I don’t like you say worry much about doing it though. By the time I’ve run it on the muffs warm enough to change the oil at season’s end I figure whatever little silt is in there is probably gone. Those pics of salt water motor cores dissolving into nothing really hurts! 😰
I'm still using a 1999 Honda that I bought new in 99' and has been run year round in salt ever since. I let it run on the muffs 10-15 min after every trip (while I wash the rest of the boat), and if I make a long run I'll let it idle for a few minutes to cool it down before turning it off to prevent the salt water from cooking in there. Maybe I'm lucky, or maybe these things really help. The exceptions are when I'm down in the keys or another place where it's going to be in the water for several days, then I don't bother flushing until the trip is over.
I have been unable to use my 181/2 ft boat for a year. Honda 50 main and Honda 9.9 kicker.I fire each motor up in a tank once every month and run between 15 and 20 min.at approx.1200rpm. No milky looking oil if I run it 15-20 min. Run the kiker for only 5 min and condensation forms in engine oil so I get it good and warm befor I shut it off. The muffs fall off too easily. If I dont run it once a month the telltale plugs up with salt.I hope to start using the boat again next week. Viewing in Westcoast Canada. P.S. Boat lives out of water on a trailer. I kept boats tied up in the water and used them frequently when I was younger.CHEERS!!!
Been working as outboard mechanic since 1976. Old Mercury outboard motors dissolved in 70s 80s then got better with new aluminum stainless was used.
We still have a few old Evinrude Johnson's from 1970s still running in salt water here on Long Island NY.
Colder northern water ..
Yamaha outboard excellent but now seem to have corrosion issues after 25 years on mid sections mounts exhaust housings rotted .
Mercs also had tiny impeller and brass hubs often spun inside rubber melting power heads which had no alarm. I built old tower of power inline 6 nightmare motors .
Hard to stop oxidation of metal in salt water with electrolysis also.
I run my motor in fresh water with Dawn dish soap after end of season .
I have a 1976 40 hp Johnson never flushed still good.
I still have one of those old . 88 115 merc. pushing a Ranger Fisherman V hull. If she falls tomorrow its been good. But I hope it doesn't.
@@paulmoss7940 water pump impeller thermostat and no VRO oil injection system run 50:1 premix .
Never overheat them.
Check overheat alarm horn is working.
Change lower oil a few times a season
Will last forever.
I rebuilt so so many of these.
Up here on the British Columbia coast I don't know of anyone who flushes their outboards except maybe at the end of the season when they haul out. Plenty of old motors and no issues that I'm aware.
I have a 2001 Mercury 2 stroke 125. I added the coastal flush kit and hook it up as soon as I pull in the slip. Didn't have it for a few years and I do all my own maintenance and service. The amount of salt built up and corrosion is noticeably less since adding the flush, especially around the Tstat and the block where the tstat sits.
While keeping up with the flushing is important, if you care about appearance, so is prevention of the corrosion taking place on the underside of your T top shown at 13:30.
I dont use my boat often enough so I always flush after use in salt water and I always use Saltaway or other similar salt neutralising liquids . I also use the saltaway to rinse the boat trailer , so far so good with no motor issues or rust on the trailer.
You guys are like the myth busters of boating !!!
Its pretty much one guy, the mythbusters guys are a couple old twats...
I really like your videos!! Thank you very much! I've done alot of work on my outboards because your videos are so informative and helpful.
I use a pressure washer to blast all the salt off then you can rub your finger on the motor and taste it to make sure it's all clean of salt no need to run it at all.
I owned a 2003 Yamaha 115 two stroke. I ran one hose on the flush attachment and earmuffs on the lower unit. I never had issues with the impeller when I replaced it.
My boat stays on the water at the marina from June to October. This year the weather was very dry and flushing engines was forbidden, as well as cleaning boats with fresh water. I've been feeling bad for that as the Suzuki dealer told me that could quickly ruin my engine. Your video tends to be more positive!
Thank you for the great content of your channel.
Where are you located?
@@3JS2001 South of France
@@gillesgomez3091 That is ridiculous! Here in the US on the East Coast even when we had drought conditions boaters were still allowed to rinse (not wash) their boats and flush their engines!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 I do agree with you but they said everyone must make an effort to use less water. I'm sure it did not save much water, but it is kind of a symbol.
Salt Away is your friend. Very little water needed.
I fish the Indian river, which is, for all practical purposes, salt water. About every three or four months, I submerge my Yamaha 50 horse 2 stroke in a 100 gallon tub and add about 6 gallons of white vinegar, and several good squirts of Dawn detergent. I let it run at about 1000 to 1500 RPMs for about 20 minutes, flushing again with regular fresh water for about 5 mins. afterwards. It seems to remove all of the salt and mineral deposits in my water jackets and thermostat housing. What do you think of my method of cleaning the cooling system on my outboard??? Just wanting to do the best thing for my engine to keep her running well.
vinegar is acidic, ad will eventually damage the brass water tube and parts of the cooling system if you just let it sit in there. what does your manual say>? never seen a single manual from any manufacturer recommend acetic acid as a safe cleaning agent.
Great explanation! I wish manufacturers offered a thermostat bypass just for flushing. That should be standard!
most t stats will dribble water, as will the poppet valves/valve through its relief hole. its not bone dry like he claims in most motors.
Firm believer of flushing and salt away....Whether it's a muff or the hose attachment.....I've never had an overheating problem.....The last engine replacement I pulled the head to show the passages to the buyer and the passages were very clean....He's still using a 20 year old Johnson!!
You nailed it Wes. Flush em and they’ll treat you right for a long time
Personally I’ve used all 3 methods he mentioned here. If the boat is in the lift it goes on the flush port, if in the driveway it’s going in a bucket, if I pass a lake on the way home from the salt, I stop at the ramp.
I have a 07 Yamaha 115 2 stroke abd i flush every time after use even in mostly fresh/brackish water down here in south Louisiana i hook my muffs up first let the motor get back nice and hot say fot like 10 minutes then i disconnected the . muffs and hook up to the flush port and let it flush about 20 more minutes might be a little excessive but im wanting my motor to last the rest of my life
I service around 200 outboards a year.
Salt is the enemy of marine engines & "need" servicing to clean the salt out of the thermostat cooling chambers.
We only service around 2 or 3 purely fresh water engines & the difference in the engine condition is staggering.
The biggest customer mistake is thinking that if they rarely use the boat the better it will be, but the opposite is more true.
Use it often to keep the water moving.
Whatever you do, don't EVER leave a cover on the engine. This causes sweating & massive damage.
Yes I now do. Thanks. With my 25 Yamaha 2 stroke, as I used it almost every day, I only flushed it if it was going to sit a while. Seemed to work for me.
That is very poor thinking and you should change your ways, Anytime you start your engine you should flush it even if it was only running for a minute!
@@NeverEnoughPyro40 This motor/s have are/have been on my RIB inflatable. I am out cruising and living on anchor. My dingy is my car. It is used daily and a lot. I flush if I am going to store it. I change the Lower unit oil and pump impeller at specified intervals and have never had issues. Mostly Yamaha Enduro. The 25 was not an Enduro. Just good luck? I don’t think so. No way could I flush it after each use and I don’t know any cruisers that live on the anchor and are daily active with there dingy that do.
I live by the Great Lakes we put the lower unit in barrels or fish tanks submerge it it’s all freshwater anyhow we flush to get the zebra mussels and stuff like that from accumulating
Do you end the flush with salt away? When the soap shows up after we hook up the salt away we shut the engines down and the engines appear to perform much better. We also put a light flush of salt away on the reels after rinsing and the guy who services them has commented on how clean they are.
I have a 2022 Yamaha 150 and tried this... the overheat alarm came on after repeated tries with the motor running. Called the dealer and they said the entire foot needs to be submerged if running. Best is to flush without the motor running. Point is...follow the manufacturers recommendations.
I run in salt water. I’ve had mechanics say To flush on muffs until the thermostat opens. Hot water is better on salt accumulation. Possibly the water volume was too low?
@@dross1492 You wouldn’t need to worry about salt accumulating if you flushed your engine regularly!
I have a 2020 60 HP Mercury on the back of a 150 BW Montauk. Its stays in a slip in salt water from April to October. I run it a couple of times a week on average. I flush after every run every time from the flush port with the engine idling and tilted out of the salt water. Everyone that sees me do that says that I shouldn't. The only problem with that is, the Mercury manual clearly states that you can idle the engine with water connected to the flush port with the motor tilted. Even the local Boston Whaler dealer told me I should not do that. I show them the Mercury manual and they don't want to believe what it says. So finally I call Mercury Tech support and guess what, I was told that it is perfectly fine to run the engine tilted out of the salt water with clean water connected to the flush port as long as the engine is idled. Case closed for me. By the way it was much easier and faster to get to a live person at Mercury Tech support than what I was expecting.
Water pressure alone shouldn't be your only gauge. You need to consider flow rate as well. You can have high pressure, but not enough water volume. Pressure is not volume.
You actually can’t flush the engine on the flush attachment without the lower unit attached, because the water directly flows down towards the the same tube that is used when what is sent to the motor just the opposite direction . , directly shoots water down to the lower unit to build up back pressure as well as to ensure filling up that area with water, which is exactly where the impeller is. It will have just as much water as if you put the muffs on it. All good advice here, my grandfather never would rev the engine without the big old trash can.
I rarely flush .. and only on muffs ...
But I run 250-300 hrs per year... and at least 1/2 an hour each weekend...
Twin 150 etecs now ..
I keep the boat in the water 10-11 months a year.
New impellers and thermostats every two years (500 to 600) hours
Never had cooling issues ...
I can see flushing after use in dirty water, or before storing for several weeks.. but I have put 2000 hrs on sets of out boards .. approaching 10,000 hours of experience of not flushing after each use .. in salt water ...without cooling issues..
I bought a “flush bag” that straps to the engine and the lower unit is totally submerged in water, works pretty good.
Yes flush bags a great!
Yep my grandpa made one out of doubled up boat cover and waterproof seams sewn and a hose fitting and it works super well just takes forever to fill
It’s my understanding that on Verados the flush attachment pushes water through internal ports of the block in the opposite direction to that which the impeller pushes it. Wouldn’t running the engine using the flush attachment create a “stalemate” for water flow, even though the engine does over heat? The second thought is that during normal operation there are internal ports that go from a larger diameter to a small diameter (often where blockages occur). Creating good “reverse” flow volume using the flush port, without the engine running, helps clear these small transitions by pushing flow from the smaller diameter to the larger diameter. Not sure if any of this is accurate; just what’s published on the. Verado Owner’s site (before it closed down). Your thoughts?
Really wished he would have answered your question too.. :-(
Thanks ! good info, well explained, clear camera shots. You can be a good teacher for mechanics too
Glad it was helpful!
My 1980 Mercury 90hp straight six motor still runs excellent. Only used in salt water twice, then flushed by running it in a freshwater lake the very next day. It's my Tower of Power for my jet sled.
Great Video Aaron. I have a 2021 Yamaha SHO 200hp 20" Shaft. I use my boat about 1-3 times a week in S.W Florida. Mostly Brackish water. (Charlotte Harbor) My boat lives on a boat lift, I flush it very time I get back within 10 Minutes. I use the flush attachment on the engine. My Question is how long should I run the engine for? Something else, when I start the water flush I see that water is coming out of all the port on the lower unit, including the water pump intake vents, as soon as I start the enging the water that was coming out of the intake vents stops! Just want to make sure that the impeller is getting enough water. Thanks
it takes 3 gallons of water or so to fill that block, so about 1 full minute and its fine
Can’t run a Honda 150 on the flush port will overheat in just a min or 2. Learned from experience. Didn’t burn impeller but did get an overheat alarm.
Same here with my hondas. I tried flushing with engine running even the the manuel says not to and tripped the overheat alarm.
Those racks with the stacked boats is such a clever storage! Never seen it before
I own a honda 225hp and they are known for corrosion on block and heads so i flush it for 30 minutes or more at idle by the lower unit
wouldn't be a good idea to idle the engine with the hose attachment long enough for the thermostat to open, so everything gets flushed? Btw, who's the girl in blue t-shirt?
Another great video, Aaron! Learn something new from every video. Interesting stuff about the 'rib' showing the wear of the impeller.
Years of inshore saltwater fishing..... DOGGING out my 9.9 Mercury 2001 I bought in 2015..... NEVER flushed it. I changed the impeller in 2018.... looked brand new. Never gonna change it again. Still on the water 2-3 times a week. Still never flush it.
Ears on my 2021 Mercury 30hp for 4-5 minutes after saltwater use. Done with no problems.
Im going to run rydlyme in a 5gal bucket. The thurmostat should open up when it heats up the water a bit. Ill shut it off and let it soak before it gets too hot.
Why not take the thermostat out
My boat spends a ton of time in lakes as well as tons of time in salt. In the lake it doesn't even cross my mind. When it goes in salt it gets flushed via ear muffs with salt away adaptor idling until it warms up, unless it getting put in the lake within 12-24 hours then I don't flush it.
You mentioned shelf life. Recommended time on replacement of water pump? Ive gone out maybe 3 times in 5 years.
I change mine every year.
My thermostats are gutted. They're there in place but gutted. I live in west central Florida, and the water is never so cold anyway. Oh, and I do flush every time, indle only on muffs. It a 2000 Yamaha 115.
So our brand new Yamaha f150s specifically say in the manual not to run them on the static flush at all.
Why don't you want to run your engine w/the flush attachment on a 425 yami?
salt water very hot country suzuki 250x2 i flush 10 min by the flushing port at every sorties but it's not enought (have to open the engine to see the build up pretty badly) now every 300H (major servicing) before changing the anode and impeller we run bernacle buster in cycle for 2H inside the engine we hope to keep good cleaning that way
Thanks for clearing up all the misconceptions.
Very informative video. My outboards run in fresh water. The only time I flush the engine is when I've ran it through shallow water or water that is real muddy. And last but not least, a little common sense goes a long way.
you guys are amazing i hate to ask this but im hoping for some help
i have a 225 optimax outboard i can not flush that motor for the life of me, i used the ear muffs no pissing, i bought a strap that plugs the front of the lower unit no pissing, tried the back of the engine method no pissing but when the lower unit is submerge in the water/ ocean perfect pissing. i really hope you may have the answer for me. also i changed the water pump nothing changed.
Salt away used after every single use. I only use it two or three times a month in salt water. Not retired yet!!
I have burned 1 impeller on flushing device 2003 mer sw 150 efi 2 stroke and then asked my marina to do a compression check. After that compression check prior not using the boat in a year, burned the impeller. I dont run my engine on flush device anymore only barrels.
I flushed using muffs and salt off with motor running for 10ish mins EVERY time i use my boat (salt water in Hawaii). After changing the thermostat (for the first time/300hrs) and seeing some salt build up, I was a bit shocked. I now flush using BOTH the flush point and muffs, both with salt off container full twice with motor running for 10ish mins. I'm coming up on time to do another thermostat... time will tell if it is working.
Yeah let us know how it goes :)
Another awesome video! Thanks! I watch every week,. What about descaling?(sp?) Do you ever do that?
With all being said I put sealer on my new outboards flush access plug and stick with the Drum I’ve used for 50 years, I also fabricated a bag to use at the dock ,Slip it over the lower unit up the housing fill with water.Neve failed me yet.No guessing!
Aaron have u ever tested or done comparisons on products such as salt away?
Note new 4 stroke Yamaha's have a fuel cooling circuit. If you don't keep the salt out of it especially silt from running in dirty water it will block it up & your motor will not idle for long when it is hot.
One important item you did not talk about is invasive species that can travel from one lake to another if you do not flush you engine as well as live wells.
Thats interesting. It happens with ships and the ballast water they hold.
I have a 2018 Mercury 40hp 4 stroke in salt water. When fresh water flushing I never have a tell tale draining out is that normal when using the flushing attachment?
I have replaced so many impellers because customers run engine on the flush connection I dont recommend to my customers to run engine if doing so
Great video, my son lives onboard in Coco Plum and I hope you two meet someday. Great information, we live in Michigan but I still love your channel and the information you share.
Sweet!. I’ve got a pair of L4 175 Verados on my cat. I’ve been wondering what would be the best way to flush em after every trip, your input has been appreciated!.
Running a 15hp Yamaha on a dinghy yacht tender. Basically gets a good flush once a year, and just used very regularly during sailing season.
I haven't had the ability to flush my motor this season since I moved and don't have access to a hose. I have had 0 issue so far. I run a 40hp 2020 Merc. My flow has been exactly the same as before. I was afraid it would be an issue but back in the 90s my pop never flushed our engines and in 20 years of hard use
Fresh or saltwater
Primarily salt. I occasionally fish the Deleware River and I don't fish inshore. My boat is 20 miles or more offshore
And 7 dont flush motors or run closed system
@@mulletoutdooradventures6286 You are not going to have any issues after only one season! I would definitely not make a habit out of not flushing!
Great topic. Right on time. Always pro tips for the newb.
So there's no danger in flushing a hot motor with cold tap water? I would always wait for the motor to cool down a little before flushing
Salt water up north is always cold and about same temp as tap water uses for flushing
The point to flushing a cold, freshwater only engine is to clear out any Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) which often get sucked up through the intakes. If you pick up an AIS through your motor's cooling system and do not flush it before relaunching it, you stand a very good chance of accidentally spreading AIS - a crime in many states despite any lack of intent.
@@doyouwanttobefamous2556 Yes, it is. Thanks for understanding the science and agreeing with researched and proven facts. 🙂
Something else to remember are your zinc anodes .. super important to help avoid corrosion of the aluminum engine parts… flushing just as important .. I use a half drum and run for at least 15 min after every use on my smaller engines
You need 0psi for boat intake as long as the motor has water volume your fine
So if we leave it in the salt water and boat once a week what should we do?
I flush for 5 minutes at idle with fresh water and finish with 2 oz of salt away leaving it in the engine to do its work.
I'm glad you went into detail about where the water is coming out. I'm new to boat ownership and not to many people in my area like Johnson's, even mechanics don't know slot about older one's. I haven't been using my boat frequently so I am planning on using alot of your suggestions.
Inboard motor folks say pressuring the intake water system with dockside water (which can be quite high) is not good. In this case a valved hose fitting plumbed before the strainer is used to provide the fresh water, but an open end of an intermediate hose from the flush fitting is dropped in a bucket of fresh water where the engine can draw as much as it needs, not forced.
The flush attachment was invented for california emissions. So you didnt have to run the motor. I always flush with saltaway on ear muffs. It makes a huge difference
On my boat I have two 2018 df 140. In one of them I got the code 1-1. The gage reads 17V average. It goes up and down from 15.6Vto 17.8V. When I start the engine, it shows 11.2V and after a minute or so goes up to 17v like I describe above. I cleaned battery terminals and cable connectors. I purchased and installed a new rectifier regulator. I switched the batteries. The problem is still there. What else I can do?
I didn't hear anything about zinc sacrificial anodes that are in the cooling system of salt water motors. If you don't flush the salt out of the cooling system, the anodes corrode faster and if they corrode completely away the engine will corrode. Always flush after running an outboard in salt water.
I learned with my merc to replace the whole pump. She was beeping over heating if you drove a fast troll
The thing is you need to flush the engine with acid and remove thermostats you can check my tutorial how to do it on honda engine make it so it goes in circles for about 2hours to remove salt
I would add: use water softener in areas with very hard water. I flush religiously and before my softener, the engines looked like I never flushed. Added the softener and it makes HUGE difference
u mean laundry softener?
@@OrcaAngler no there are magnetic, electronic conditioners or softeners like Spot On
@@andrewbeltran4003 i see thanks buddy
I've always use the ears and made sure the water came out before the flush my Drumming with a 240 Volvo and my 9.5 Evenrude never had any problems and always at idle
I have a Honda 150hp (2004) and the boat is on the water 3/4 moths and my question is if i flush the engines from that hose in the engines do i have too tilted the engines down and gravity do the job or when is tilted up have to start the engines too flush…because i have try flush tilted but didn’t start the engines and the house with the pressure come off…
Ive found some yamaha 150's throw an alarm on the muffs.
We need a bigger dunk tank.
My 04 Yamaha F150’s hooked up to flush hose won’t send water out the pisser unless it is idling flush every time used
Fantastic explanation, I absolutely enjoy every video you put out. Thank you.