How to Prepare a Junkyard LS engine for Big Power - Complete Rebuild
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- Опубликовано: 4 июн 2024
- Today we show you all the steps to prepare a Junkyard LS for lots of power. We have used this method of setting the proper bearing clearances, choosing the right oil pump, upgrading the cam bearings, and installing head studs, on many applications in closing LSA Supercharged LS, Turbocharged LS, and Nitrous LS combos. We have used this method to make over 1000hp at the wheels on the dyno.
Thanks for Watching! 
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The relationship you have with your parents is the real treasure, you’re very lucky!
Wish I had that with my dad
@@clintbartholomew7459 same here brother.
@@clintbartholomew7459 me too.
Totally!!!
Amen!!!
Great info thanks however I would not use the Chinese head studs.
I learned a lot watching this. The best ls engine prep vid I have seen over the years.
The knowledge you guys have is amazing and thanks for sharing it in such a clear and understandable way..
No problem. Thanks for tuning in.
So amazing man . Thank you . Great knowledge
The wooshers! Or the Worshers if you’re Scott’s Speed Shop. I love it 😂
Or if you're my dad 😆
Excellent tutorial. Invaluable information for those building there first Hot Rod, restoration, etc. Thanks
Thanx you, finally a video that a first time builder can understand. I am doing the exact same build but with a cast steel block (2003 LQ4 6.0L) Look forward to all your video's.
Are all of the part numbers for bearings and such the same for the Iron and aluminum blocks? In other words are the blocks the same spec wise?
Subbed when I saw you working with your family. Very special times. I miss my grandad. My dad doesn't wrench with me. I keep trying to get him involved though. Thanks for the good info!
Lol.. the double thumbs up at the end from your dad was great. You are a good engine builder, great tips.
When I did my oil pump I only used 2 sets of flat shims, I unbolted the one I needed from each and put them in sideways which each wrapped around near 30%. Thanks for the video, the knowledge you share really helps!
Little tip on bearings, when your checking clearance, if you have one that’s a little high or low, you can try and swap with one on the other side of the spectrum. Can sometimes help.
Yep. A lot of people compine X with non-X bearings.
This is the best video I’ve seen I plan on rebuilding my first engine this summer for a mustang ls wap
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on the LS platform. I will be working on a few in the next few month's. With 3 different applications. One daily driver Chevy S10 and one for the step-van tow vehicle. Another for a 67 Camaro, witch will be a work in progress drag car. I am hoping to get it out by late summer and get in a few track days, before winter sets in up here in northern Wisconsin. I have plans to upgrade the Camaro every winter and get to the next level of power and speed. I have been out of the game for a very long time. The LS had just came out in the Corvette. Back in the eighties and early nineties. I had several small block cars and one big block. I just kept using it in other cars, upgrading as I went. I had a crash while racing and it did not end well.
Thanks. Lots of good information in this video
Keep up the good work. My boyfriend left your video playing and just kept on watching it. Ended up watching the whole video. hahaa. Your video was very informative. i like how you go through step by step and explain all the details.
Your explanation of things is excellent.
I watched your video on the jegs xhd converter, I had heard a lot of talk about this converter however I never completely understood the ins and outs of how it worked until I saw your video.
Thanks.
Thanks!
Nice job and thanks to ur mom and dad for joining ✌️
Great video! One of the best how to’s and very knowledgeable. Gave thumbs up and subscribed! Thank you!
You guys are wonderful. Thanks for all you do for the hotrod community
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
nice work !! very clear info and quality sound !!! I'm subscribing because of your thoroughness, thanks .
Thanks so much!
Great video and lots of good info. Thanks .
That engine will go sweet in Crusty Fitzee
Good detailed info in layman's terms.
Subscribed just because of the invaluable content and I saw the 3rd Gen Camaro. I have an '88 Iroc Z28 305 TPI in the garage waiting for an LS engine swap.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Good video, well done!
Great video,thanks for sharing your knowledge.I like free information..
definitely a good way to take the dumbell out, however ive had them snap in the center or even at the base of the inner most part of the dumbell
This video is fantastic, thank you! I like the content speaking style and editing. All good.
Great video great explanation of all things thank you
Awesome info, thanks for sharing.
Perfect video, thanks!
Keep up the good work. My boyfriend left your video playing and i just kept on watching it, until the end. haha Your video was very informative. I appreciate, how you go over every step and explain everything.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Appreciate the videos!
Thanks bud.
You can also check the crankshaft endplay with feeler guages.
If you use the carburetor cleaning acid in the 1 gallon pait can and set your pistons in for a short while, the carbon becomes soft behind the piston rings. It makes the carbon much easier to clean out.
Perfect timing. My news feed sometimes makes me wonder 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Damn good video. I’m been so curious about buying a used engine versus making my own from scratch. Pretty much just scared to try it out of fear of messing up. That really gave me some answers and some courage. Thank you.
Don't be afraid to try, start with something you can afford to lose like a 4.8/5.3 in case there is an unforseen event, engine prices have gone crazy lately, even a junkyard 5.7/6.0/6.2 is likely going to be pretty expensive, the remanned short blocks and crate engines have gone up a lot too. Take a 5.3, swap in some flat top pistons, do some mild port work and mill down some 706/862 heads and/or use thinner head gaskets to bump compression between 10.8-11.6:1 for n/a applications or just shoot for 10.0-10.6:1 with boost. For n/a you might want to focus more on the cam, use the Vizard 128 formula and spec more exact lift and duration that gets as much power as you can without being so aggressive to require more valvetrain upgrades than you are ready to spend for to be reliable. With boost cam doesn't matter as much an a $100-150 Elgin 228/230 will be just fine. Boost really is best for 4.8/5.3 to make lots of cheap power, even though 500hp is possible n/a at the crank with work from a 5.3. At least a 5.7/ 6.0 is better n/a and worth $1,000-1,500 for a used engine that is build able. For n/a builds factory heads are more of a limitation before you will gain much peak HP from something like a stroker kit. I have seen 5.7s make 540hp crank with factory heads and I have seen a 408 stroker 6L make 550hp crank with stock 241 heads, 821/823 rec ports make 550-625hp on a stock bottom end, so porting or aftermarket heads will be necessary to make huge power.
@@hendo337 thanks brother I appreciate knowledge and insight. I’ll deffinitly keep you posted with things I try out
Always great to hear all the info and ideas you have, thanks again!
FYI and this is just from past experience, the LS1 (Fbody) style pan and pickup is indeed not in a great location. Stuff we have done in the past is the same with the TBSS pans is to add a piece of aluminum with holes drilled at the top to help stop oil splash back on acceleration but it also lets it pass through when the g forces drop. You can rivet it to the stock pan baffle cover and add about .5-1 qt over stock (6.5 qrts is about perfect). I still recommend a better pan and pickup but it's something that is better than the stock setup and it fairly cheap. Menard's/ Home Depot sell little sheets of it for a couple bucks and you can do a few pan baffles with it.
Yup we've gone low 9s with an LS1 oil pan with a revised pickup location. You can make anything work.
That's a cool trick. Good to hear guys are getting the front sump stuff to work.
You are showing me some good things
Nice to see some PA guys!
Thanks for the awesome information
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid with plenty c.y.a. tips 💯
Great video guys really enjoyed it it was very helpful
I frigin wish my dad was into engines, if I ever had a kid I’d build a engine with them.
I have been using engine tech coded bearings so far they work great the price is low 40s
Good job dude!
Great video! Getting ready to do my first LS swap in my S10 (6.2 L92) and will be using this video as a reference. I also see it looks like you run at Beaver Springs? I too am a Central PA native. Only been to Beaver a few times but plan on making it up after I'm done with the install. Thanks again for the great video!
Those are family goals for me I’m a 31yo single dad and have a 12yo girl and 6yo son my daughter has always been out with me working on my junk and racing same thing with my son they seem to be having fun and I love it! What’s funny is down hear in bama close to me are huge concrete pads from a steel factory that got tore down in the 80s it’s awesome! The spot where me and everybody else in the area goes to race way safer than the street and the worst that happens is you get ran off for being loud past like 11:00 or 12:00 the best spot there is about 750ft long and probably 50 or 60ft wide you still have plenty of shut down area I think that was the original parking lot but I know for a fact a 4.51 has been ran on it according to a draggy by probably the fastest small block in Alabama it a 460ci billet dart lsx deal with some super badass crazy Mast Mozez heads setup with a 123mm Harts turbo it’s extra extra rowdy it’s one of the loudest turbo combos I’ve heard(the owner grudge and street races so it’s all no time stuff pretty secretive I know a little more about it but not much so it’s been faster or he would not have showed it) ex NHRA pro stock truck from the early 2000’s ( I love them trucks ) gold and black S10 with a lot of badass fab work and probably every sensor a Holley dominator can handle everything is top notch he runs it on small tires sometimes! But last month my daughter went a 7.39@ 89mph chicken footing it in my turbo 1999 turbo Z28 on gate it made a max of 5.4 pounds of boost according to the draggy she been driving safely in a safe environment for about a year but just started actually getting on it doiN burn outs making passes having fun but I’m having way more fun than her though definitely a proud dad!! I need to put the draggy on my sons gocart that started out as a dirt track go cart in November of 2021 for his birthday day in December me and my fabricator buddy cut it up narrowed it a little bit, changed a lot up front so it would turn right and left and easy to keep straight and out back we moved a few bars around of got a narrowed its pretty narrow compared to the original axel it’s rolling on a set of Hoosier 18x9 jr dragster slicks with some 10” polished aluminum wheels there just the cheapest wheels that fit the jr dragster hubs and what not they may be 8”s and moved the sprocket exact to the center of the axle so the motor got moved in like 6 inches and the disc brake setup on the other side of the motor and sprocket. At the moment it’s got basically a stock harbor freight Chinese Honda 5.5hp with a crazy loud 27” long megaphone exhaust a carb spacer and mikuni carb that’s a lot more tunable and flow big enough when ever I give him more than Half throttle. It’s a pretty cool ass little go cart right now it’s runnin the little dirt track kart wheels and dirt slicks but when he turns 7 it’s gonna get some 17x2.5 jr dragster front wheels and run with jr dragters at my local track Damn I didn’t think I typed that much lol I can talk about my kids and our hobbies all day! LOL
That's awesome man. Glad you are getting kids involved early.
If you plan to rev the engine above 5300 rpms it’s highly recommended you shim the oil pump bypass spring .100”.
Why? Because the pump will be bypassing oil internally reducing the volume of oil if you do not.
One thing i suggest with the ring filer tool is to just but one end up. Makes it easier to hold and less deburring to do. I did my ring gap at .030 on my turbo 6.0 and took about 50 revolutions on the exact same tool from amazon.
Not a bad suggestion. Just how I've always done it.
Great video and thank you for the torque values. I'm not a pro by any means, but I also drilled some oil holes inside the oil rings so there is better drainback and less chances of oil getting stuck in the groove. I also did a fair bit of grinding the casting flash by where the lifters are, in hopes that it improves oil drainback. I have an iron truck block, so maybe the AL blocks aren't so rough. I ported my standard volume oil pump and I did shim it 0.100 for more pressure. I have an early block, so I also ground a path between the two oil galleries in the rear of the block (Early gen3 don't have the passage in the block, just the tiny groove in the back engine cover.
All of those sound like excellent upgrades. One upgrade I forgot to mention was drilling holes in you lifter trays to aid oil drain back.
@@Calvin-Nelson Great idea, thank you. I don't have the heads on yet :)
Love it, thank you for the engines rebuild class.
Good one enjoyed
hot tip those oversize bearings good to know thanks . and wow fitzees here
It's really cool to see such an in depth video.
I'm new to the LS world and have built a few inline 5cyl turbo Volvo motors.
I recently purchased a 1990 Volvo 240 that has a modified lm7 5.3 with lc9 pan and l59 flex fuel injectors.
They used a summit 8707 cam 226/238 duration .600 lift and 113lsa.
They used the pac 1219 springs, Brian tooley pushrods and trunion kit.
Has all new gaskets and rod bolts, head bolts and rebuilt 706 heads.
They used long tube headers with vbands and black widow muffler with dual 3" inlets to a single 4" outlet.
Has a ford 8.8 with 3.73 gears and a mini spool.
And a 5dps trans from a Nissan 300zx twin turbo with mecloud 6 puck.
The things I don't like is the Nissan starter heat soaks from the headers. I've wrapped both the header and used reflective tape on the starter which helped 80% still a slight lag when fully warm on hot days.
They did use a summit oversized radiator with spal electric fan. So coolant temps usually stay around 195° even in 90° degree weather.
It also has msd coils and a trailblazer SS intake along with 92mm snake eater throttle body.
Was dyno tuned on HP tuners and made around 390whp and 400wtq which seems pretty decent for a gen3 5.3 based on what I've read.
Again totally new to LS and even v8 world in general.
The whole pushrods vs overhead cams is much different.
This video def helped a lot, unfortunately I don't have a full breakdown of my build including oil pump and sprocket chain used.
I just ordered an mvpi2 from hptuners in hopes I can download current file, save it as a backup, and try to remove the 99mph governor set on the 2002 suburban ECM that came with this lm7.
Cold start needs some tweaking, and notice a p0300 random misfire code even though it idles well when warm and has no hesitations.
I believe it may be the misfire detection was never adjusted with the larger cam.
If you have any insight plz lmk.
Oh also has walbro 255 and Corvette regulated filter.
I have changed the oil and checked it and filter found no shavings and maintains around 40psi at idle and around 50-55 during wot and cruising.
How much for it
@@user-db2rx2fx6c ?
I decided to cheap out and just use snap guages .. they work fine as long as you use them properly
Good video!!
love your videos, what did you torque the studs too and are they holding up? I was torquing mine to 65 and one kept stretching and I was lucking I had a broken set and robbed one and it held up....ARP torque at 70-75 I think ,cheap ones won't take that much.
Man this video was so informative I'm currently about to tackle a junkyard 5.3l myself. Anymore tips you can give to get about 350ish/400Hp not really looking to get big numbers just power for the trails.
Great content
Like the video 👍very informative.
This is my first ls to do.I have 6
0 block and procharger (dsc 1) I need heads pistons cam have crankshaft stock
Calvin, Sorry one more stupid question for now. lol… Can you please post the brand and part number for Cam Bearings you recommend? Thanks again you are a gentleman & a scholar‼ Plus a life saver. Also I love your style…
Basically Blue Printing the long block. With flat mounting face rods. You can grind the cap or rod to resize the rod as well as hone it round. With the LS rods , they have a cracked cap. You would need a over size bearing shell . We used a cheapy ultrasonic cleaner for the 4.8 parts. Worked really well , parts are nice and clean. Very informative video. You touched subjects no one else has shared or done. What car is on the lift?
Thanks. It's a friend's Camaro.
Good content
i been getting lucky on getting the ho 454 has steel crank heavy rods high flow heads 450 hp at 485 torque with a 02xx 400r turbo from 6,000 to 58,000 miles on them running perfect for free saves me a lot of money on a build but i don't race anymore just build street cars . all, i did on one engine is put a street weiland high rise with a 850 holley boy did that make it come alive in my 68 chevy pu has a good sound runs hard a very good street engine . plus they come with everything u need to put it in with 4 row radiator twin electric fans serpentine belt full cooling systems , oil, power steering and a double trans cooler with all the lines u need all free. plus i have a lot of connections on parts from friends
Cool. Glad you are using what makes you happy.
@@Calvin-Nelson i am just a budget builder if i don't get it cheap or free i don't touch it . like my 68 pu so far 1400 in it. i been offer from 8,000 to 12,000 for it with no final paint or interior
I've always had good luck with ole basic plastigauge
great vid.. but woulda liked for you to include centering the front timing chain cover and rear cover properly.. i have my block and all parts ready in garage and will be doing my 5.7 stroker build really soon
Why are you stroking a 5.7? With factory heads you will probably be making nearly the same peak HP with a 5.7 as a 383 stroker, heads or a the same price for a stroker kit in a 6.0 or 6.2 block with at least Rec Ports is going to make more power if you are going n/a. Just a rebuild with a hone if needed, 243/799/241/853 heads, big cam and you'll have 540hp with a 5.7, nearly as much as I have seen with stock 241 cathedral port heads on a 408 stroker, 550hp. With cam size you either run as much as p-v allows or find no extra power once the cam is too large. Definitely shoot for 11.0-11.6:1 compression n/a to get as much as you can.
How did it go with the head gaskets? They tested the chinese studs and the stock bolts yielded will give you more clamping force every time
I just assembled a 5.3 for my truck and have ran it a couple hundred miles and already have a leaking head gasket. So I know what your talking about. I didn't everything right but I used felpro gaskets. Now I've had this problem before and solved it by using mahle gaskets so I'm going to break this one back down and use a new set of bolts and Mahle Head gaskets. They are more expensive but worth it.
That or use Cosmetic MLS and while you're at it go a little thinner for compression to make up for those dished pistons and get some extra power.
Can the head gaskets be mismarked and which way does the coolant flow?
I don’t remember if you mentioned the oil plug on the front but you can knock the dumbbell out and reuse it through the passage from the front with a rod.
Yeah. They're cheap enough to just replace altogether.
Thank you for taking the time you do in your videos, I only have one question. When you installed the cam it was dry why not add cam lube?
I lubed it up, just didn't show it.
I, like it no frills nothing fancy just good common sense. the Camaro is cool and so was the Nova, but that Stude had me doing the doctor evil laugh, you folks are pretty Coolidge,(see what i did there.you know calvin)sorry bad joke any way thanks for the info.78 fairmont boxtop gt45 5.3
Never see any video like this
I use plasti gauge and target 2.5-3. It spins so nice cause it the crank is straight the block is square and you have .003+. Be very careful when buying bearing it sounds like you describe like a -.001 giving you more clearance. You can more popularly buy +.001 bearings to decrease the clearance a friend bought a set of stock ones he shoe string polished the crank and they all had about .00425 would have been a perfect candidate for a +.001. If he put an X or -.001 he would have had more than 5… I got 2.5 on mains and rods .030 top and middle ring the blue mhg ported oil pump for the rx48 uploaded a short on my channel. Needs a lot more work but going to see if I can get a passenger to hold a camera for a quick blast next time
Do you run a heavier weight oil with the extra clearances? Or does a properly set up pump have more than enough pressure with stock oil?
Thanks for the tip on the eXtra size bearings. Really good to know. The more of an oil cushion, the better.
Interesting to hear about the stock pump. Makes sense. Too much oil in the heads is useless.
I just bought an lq4 6.0L, I want to try and push about 600hp N/A, any recommendations on things I need to do that most people overlook?
Thumbnails are getting goooood 👌 Not that I personally care, but we all know how YT works ;) nice, keep it up, and as usual, thanks for the content, from the other side of the pond :)
Thanks a bunch. I've been spending a ton of time on them. Glad someone noticed.
@@Calvin-Nelson YT algorithm does, thats whats important ;) And probably peoples subconsciousness huh
@@Calvin-Nelson every RUclipsr has some thumbnail style, colors, etc, very often same as others. What You did here is darn good I think, common enough but also not exactly the same as others, I would stick with it 👌
Nicely done! I really like your approach to engine assembly, thorough but not fussy. How does the X bearing effect oil pressure at idle?
With the right oil (20w-50), not at all. Had 60 psi on the first startup.
@@Calvin-Nelson 20w50 full synthetic I assume, because when real cold 20w50 is ike molasses.
Hi, nice video. For the block, did you send it to a machine shop for cleaning or back yard self clean it? And just hand hone the cylinders? New rings? Thanks so much! Bob
Backyard cleaning. Lol. I don't think we honed this one. If they look bad, we do. A lot of times they looks good. Used rings.
You guys are very informative and I enjoy your videos. What’s your opinion on reusing the main bolts? Do you have a specific torque or do the tty method?
My bad. Thought you were talking about the Atlas engine.
On the LS, we have reused the main bolts many times. We usually torque them. I showed the torque specs we use in the video.
Thanks for the info
what oil do you recommend with .003” main clearance
Great comprehensive video. Thank you. So you have had good luck running .003 main bearing clearance on an aluminum block before? I was thinking aluminum blocks expand a bit more than iron blocks.
Yup. Made 1010whp like that.
I checked my aluminum 5.3 that I'm building and I have .0025 on all mains with stock replacement bearings. I hope it's enough.
That was the greatest video I’ve ever seen, what was the torque setting on the oil pan bolts and the new head studs I think I missed that one
Oil pan was 18 lbft. Head studs were 70 lbft. I think I forgot to put those in.
@@Calvin-Nelson What kind of oil are you running with all that clearance
@@HeyLiana1 Valvoline VR1 20w-50
Hello,
I have yukon 5.3 v8 2008 with 4L60E transmission, and DOD DELETED and I will add in my yukon:
1-long tube HEADERS (Speed engineer)
2-cold air intake(volant)
3-full system exhaust with Y pipe
The qustaion Is which cam should I buy to make more hp and tq:
1-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS CAM
Or
2-BTR GEN III & IV LS TRUCK NORRIS NSR CAM
Another qustaion do I have buy valve springs and pushrods?
Thanks a lot and you are helping the people who want to get more hp and tq in thiers cars
is this setup good for street cars/daily drivers or race only
I had a horrible experience with one of those Summit fixed size (4") piston installer rings. I had done what I thought was the wise thing to a junkyard LQ4 (I was installing in my GTO that had a siezed LS1). I pulled the pistons and rods, dinglballed the cylinders, I added new rod bearings, I gapped the rings to 0.028". I got to the 4th piston and it went slightly off center int h bore, broke the bottle oil ring land and that was all she wrote. I had no way to get another used LQ4 piston and I was working somewhere that I couldn't stay and work any longer. Ruined everything, car has been sitting and waiting ever since.
Yes, All years of LS headbolts are Torque to Yield replace them with new Headbolts every Time...I run GM OEM everytime...never had a Problem.
Great Video by the Way
People have shown that it's not always necessary in many tests.
Thanks for sharing
Sorry for dumb question, but what CR is achieved with these pistons?
That is not a dumb question. Should be right around 10.2:1. Thanks for watching
I don't know if you mean to, but I like how it repeated head gasket orientation. I just sold a motor and I felt like the head gaskets were mismarked. Feel like I probably need to call the guy and say hey lets pop those heads off and just double check the head gaskets.
Yeah. It won't cool right if they're backwards. Lol
Great video! This covers a lot of the common failure points with the LS series engines. That said, the rocker arm trunions are another failure point. Do you guys use the trunion upgrade kits?
Only on the Gen 4 stuff with the offset rocker.
@@Calvin-Nelson Question Sir the 4.2l atlas engine weight lbs dou you have any idea i did a quick search did not find the information .Thanks
@@overbuiltautomotive1299 Bottom of the page. sites.google.com/view/vortec4200wiki/dimensions
excellent
what HP did it make?
Great info. Suggested head gaskets? MLS exclusively, or...?
Definitely MLS. We used a Felpro because it was cheap. $39 a piece from Amazon. The ones from GM are good too.
I went 30 over. Flat top no relief hyper pistons. Ls3 823 heads shaved .015 sloppy 2 cam. Long tubes. Nnbs truck intake, 92mm TB, 3200 stall. Th350.
Wanna vortec V3 supercharger on it.
Great info there kid! I have a aluminum 6.0L out of a Pontiac G8 the factory oil pan holds over 8 qts of oil. I'm going to be doing some autocross and some road racing mostly at Watkins glen. Is the bigger oil pan give me better protection against oil starvation?
It will definitely help. I would look and see if improved racing makes a baffle tray with trap doors for it.
the absolute weakest point on an LS engine is the oiling system especially with sustained lateral G's, if you're going to be road racing I'd recommend an accusump or dry sump system to avoid rod knocking your motor. Baffles and trap doors work fine for drag racing.
Great vid...like going to school for me...I like the gold spokes on the mags...I may have missed it...but did you paint the spokes?...If so, what paint?
I painted them with VHT wheel paint
@@Calvin-Nelson Thanks!...I just watched the video showing you painting them...they look good...I'm gonna try it out on a set I have...a nice change from the grey spokes and it really does make the wheels pop.. Have a good one....and thanks for your great content.
When I check main clearance very seldom do I get the same on all the bearings , so I guess the best way is to buy two sets and then mix and match to get proper clearance?
Yep. That's the proper way to do it.
Cam bearings. Friend of mine buys alot of LS motors from the rust belt. Hes bought low mileage motors that have cam bearings walking out.
I've had a few that came out with the cam. Sometimes you have no choice but to look at them. Lol
If you de le the a mag am ent will hoy check engine ? If that happen what you need do? May you know I got a 10 Silverado and got the sistem and I want get drr es keyed?
I want to ls swap into my GMC Canyon. I want to do it right the first time!
Look up the Sloppy Mechanics Colorado build or keep your eyes open for a Colorado or Canyon in the junkyard that had a V8 from the factory to snag odd parts.
End of video! Now get the hell outta my shop. I gotta do this job fast.
Even though you are building a LS engine you should do the same thing on any other engine size for the lower end of the LS.