I'm sure you are aware of this already, but Golfwrx buy/sell site is great to find used parts to build clubs. That's how I have done a couple sets. Of course you will need ferrules, so check out BB&F for some sexy options.
I enjoy both your channels. I have been golfing for 2 months now. I have learned so much from your channels. Thank you for the time that you put into your channels
1/2 set is a great option for walking the course and making you work different shots while on the course. becuase youre ginna force yourself to make changes to some shots.
You may have mentioned it but taper tip shafts when cut to length should be the around the same weight but with parallel the longer the shaft the heavier it will be.
I've played a half set for a while. Most people aren't consistent enough to hit all their clubs their ideal distance, and will see a flux of about 15 yards for each iron from shot to shot, so sometimes you'll hit your 9 iron as far as your 8 iron and sometimes you'll hit it as far as your pitching wedge. Carry less clubs.
Oh my god, all this time I could never figure out the difference between how the two different tip dimensions are prepped. This makes so much sense, now. Are parallel tip shafts more popular? You'd think they'd be much MUCH cheaper to manufacture, for obvious reasons.
AJ, great video, thanks for all the content. Quick question, what is the depth of the wood block with the holes in it you use to get the ferrule further up the shaft? Thanks again!
That one is 1 inch. Anything around 3/4 to 1 inch will work well. Deep enough to get it started and allow space for epoxy on shaft but not too deep where you risk the ferrule gapping over the hosel.
In stock irons graphite shafts are ofthen cut a bit longer than steel shafts. The reason for that boils down to maintaining a certain swing weight without the need for manufacturing different weighted heads (cheaper manufacturing). When swapping steel shafts in favour for graphite shafts. Would you say that its better to keep play lenght as a constant and instead add nessesary weights to adjust swingweight to desiered value instead of cutting the graphite shafts a bit longer?
I usually say to let the sw drop with the lighter shafts. If you are going with lighter shafts, a lighter swing weight often matches up well with that. Obviously this isn't always the case and will depend on what weight shaft was used before and after but I would rather start lighter and add lead tape need be than assume a SW with 130g shafts should be duplicated with a 80g shaft.
@@EFGMC The shaft im using today are a 115g TT multi-step shaft (re-branded) on the 5-pw. Tested a Recoil 95g F4 shaft that felt realy good so thinking of using that or the Simmilar but a little lighter (82g) Recoil 680 F4 shaft.
Just curious: you’ve got Takomo 201s with steel shafts in your bag, but chose 101Ts with graphite for this half set...looking for more speed, distance, or just a different feel? Good job, as usual.
These aren't going to be my gamers. I had some extra stock lying around and just wanted to build something that looks really slick. About to build my new set for 2023 in my next video.
Sorry foe being off topic, but one last question regarding your videos (really good) of alternative shafts to AutoFlex...In terms of distance, what do you think about this...Either buying the new Ping LST 430...Or, putting the Fujikura Motore X in my current Ping 410 Plus? In case of the last one...Do you think it would be a good fit for me (155-157 Ball Speed and 104-106 MPH Swing Speed)...And, one last thing...Should I remove the weight in the driver head? I guess Ping-heads are pretty heavy for a regular shaft? Hope you have the time to reply, thanks again!
The Autoflex does not work for every golfer, nor does the alternatives that I show in my videos, so it's hard to say you will get better results from it without trying first. You would want to reduce the head weight if you go with the flexible shaft because as you said, the Ping heads are heavy since they like to pair them with counterbalanced shafts.
@@EFGMC I guess you are spot on there. Do you know what MrShortGame uses in his driver? We seem to be fairly close in terms of Swing Speed etc...Once again, you really bring some really cool/informative content to the RUclips-golf-scene.
So, I have used many types of shafts and have rarely found a set to weigh exactly the same, if you had a set of shafts that varied +/- 2 grams how would you distribute these variant weights (lighter into longer club / heavier into shorter club) some other method or makes no difference?
I usually don't worry about less than 2g especially since most of the shafts I use are constant weight so you aren't picking different raw length shafts to cut to match. I also figure I can't say for certain if the weight difference is evenly distributed through the shaft, or in a specific area so that once you cut them you may not have the same weight flow you had when they were uncut. Now if we get over 2g, that's a different story.
No need. The tip weight is wedged in place between the shaft tip and the base of the hosel so it won't go anywhere. Also epoxy will get into the spaces during assembly so putting extra epoxy on the stem is not necessary.
IMO, for ferrules to enlarge them to fit over the paint/graphite tip transition, I soak them in hot water for 5 minutes. I'm not a fan of a heat gun with layered ferrules.
Hey, Michael! I played a few rounds with a 60 + senior who had ha swing speed of 76-79 MPH...He had just changed to Accra TZ Series, and got 10-15 yards of extra length. Don´t know if that helps, but he was over the moon.
Hard to say without seeing you hit or getting some more info. What you hit right now, what shaft is in your irons and fairway woods. How high do you hit it?
Interesting, I’m a beginner to golf, I’ve only played a couple matches in my life but I’m wanting to get myself some clubs, your videos draw a lot of interest to me because I love DIY projects, and this seems like one I could handle if I had the parts to build the clubs what would you recommend to a beginner on a budget to get some clubs? I was going to take your advice on a half set of irons instead of a full set to save some money and also teach myself how to use the clubs in my bag
Way easier and cleaner to adjust head weight with tungsten powder. Then you don't have to worry about shims or flex changes. Install ferrules and heads, let it dry. then double check swing weight and add tungsten powder to desired swing weight.
Tungsten powder with graphite is not a good idea. The internal diameter of the shaft requires you to add powder much higher into the shaft. This means that you need to add much more weight in order to achieve a desired balance point. The more you add, the less efficient it becomes in changing the balance. Not good. Not good.
I have tinkered with a half set this past year. I don’t get why companies make iron lofts with only 3 degrees gap at the long end of the bag. I’m 60, and swing my 6 iron right around 80 mph. I think 7 or 8 degrees between irons is a good gapping. I had driver, 7 wood, 4 hybrid, 5, 7, 9 iron, gap and sand wedge, putter. 👍🏼⛳️🏌🏽♂️
Been playing a half set for a few years and I’ll never go back to full. It’s like painting with less colours, forces you to be more creative, also lighter to carry. D,3H,4,6,8,PW,54,58. Thanks for the videos, just put new shafts and ferrules on last week 👍
I've used a lot of your videos over the past 2 years, i'm now pretty much building all my own clubs, the hard part is buying the parts to build them.
I'm sure you are aware of this already, but Golfwrx buy/sell site is great to find used parts to build clubs. That's how I have done a couple sets. Of course you will need ferrules, so check out BB&F for some sexy options.
I enjoy both your channels. I have been golfing for 2 months now. I have learned so much from your channels. Thank you for the time that you put into your channels
Great stuff! I would love to see you build or modify a used set for a youth or teen player.
1/2 set is a great option for walking the course and making you work different shots while on the course. becuase youre ginna force yourself to make changes to some shots.
You may have mentioned it but taper tip shafts when cut to length should be the around the same weight but with parallel the longer the shaft the heavier it will be.
I've played a half set for a while. Most people aren't consistent enough to hit all their clubs their ideal distance, and will see a flux of about 15 yards for each iron from shot to shot, so sometimes you'll hit your 9 iron as far as your 8 iron and sometimes you'll hit it as far as your pitching wedge. Carry less clubs.
Oh my god, all this time I could never figure out the difference between how the two different tip dimensions are prepped. This makes so much sense, now. Are parallel tip shafts more popular? You'd think they'd be much MUCH cheaper to manufacture, for obvious reasons.
AJ, great video, thanks for all the content. Quick question, what is the depth of the wood block with the holes in it you use to get the ferrule further up the shaft? Thanks again!
That one is 1 inch. Anything around 3/4 to 1 inch will work well. Deep enough to get it started and allow space for epoxy on shaft but not too deep where you risk the ferrule gapping over the hosel.
Great video. I’ve been playing with half sets the last couple years and don’t see myself going back. What are the specs on those shafts? Thanks!
These are Fuji Pro, stiff flex, 95 gram, 3.0 torque, mid launch.
Apparently first.
Appreciate your build videos!
In stock irons graphite shafts are ofthen cut a bit longer than steel shafts. The reason for that boils down to maintaining a certain swing weight without the need for manufacturing different weighted heads (cheaper manufacturing).
When swapping steel shafts in favour for graphite shafts. Would you say that its better to keep play lenght as a constant and instead add nessesary weights to adjust swingweight to desiered value instead of cutting the graphite shafts a bit longer?
I usually say to let the sw drop with the lighter shafts. If you are going with lighter shafts, a lighter swing weight often matches up well with that. Obviously this isn't always the case and will depend on what weight shaft was used before and after but I would rather start lighter and add lead tape need be than assume a SW with 130g shafts should be duplicated with a 80g shaft.
@@EFGMC The shaft im using today are a 115g TT multi-step shaft (re-branded) on the 5-pw. Tested a Recoil 95g F4 shaft that felt realy good so thinking of using that or the Simmilar but a little lighter (82g) Recoil 680 F4 shaft.
i love working with parallel shafts i can control flex . honestly they should do away with taper tip iron shafts . not a popular opinion .
Just curious: you’ve got Takomo 201s with steel shafts in your bag, but chose 101Ts with graphite for this half set...looking for more speed, distance, or just a different feel? Good job, as usual.
These aren't going to be my gamers. I had some extra stock lying around and just wanted to build something that looks really slick.
About to build my new set for 2023 in my next video.
Sorry foe being off topic, but one last question regarding your videos (really good) of alternative shafts to AutoFlex...In terms of distance, what do you think about this...Either buying the new Ping LST 430...Or, putting the Fujikura Motore X in my current Ping 410 Plus? In case of the last one...Do you think it would be a good fit for me (155-157 Ball Speed and 104-106 MPH Swing Speed)...And, one last thing...Should I remove the weight in the driver head? I guess Ping-heads are pretty heavy for a regular shaft? Hope you have the time to reply, thanks again!
The Autoflex does not work for every golfer, nor does the alternatives that I show in my videos, so it's hard to say you will get better results from it without trying first. You would want to reduce the head weight if you go with the flexible shaft because as you said, the Ping heads are heavy since they like to pair them with counterbalanced shafts.
@@EFGMC I guess you are spot on there. Do you know what MrShortGame uses in his driver? We seem to be fairly close in terms of Swing Speed etc...Once again, you really bring some really cool/informative content to the RUclips-golf-scene.
@@stevenholmdahl1162 Last time I saw him, he was using a Ventus Red 6S. The Autoflex that he had was the 505.
So, I have used many types of shafts and have rarely found a set to weigh exactly the same, if you had a set of shafts that varied +/- 2 grams how would you distribute these variant weights (lighter into longer club / heavier into shorter club) some other method or makes no difference?
I usually don't worry about less than 2g especially since most of the shafts I use are constant weight so you aren't picking different raw length shafts to cut to match. I also figure I can't say for certain if the weight difference is evenly distributed through the shaft, or in a specific area so that once you cut them you may not have the same weight flow you had when they were uncut.
Now if we get over 2g, that's a different story.
Where can I get the heads I have tried to find them. I use to get them from peacock golf supplies
You can buy the Takomo heads only from their website. You do have to buy the whole set however.
I couldn’t tell do you use epoxy on the tip weight or just set it in place without any epoxy?
No need. The tip weight is wedged in place between the shaft tip and the base of the hosel so it won't go anywhere. Also epoxy will get into the spaces during assembly so putting extra epoxy on the stem is not necessary.
IMO, for ferrules to enlarge them to fit over the paint/graphite tip transition, I soak them in hot water for 5 minutes. I'm not a fan of a heat gun with layered ferrules.
That also works and I agree is a safer way to do it.
AJ what driver shaft would you recommend for a senior golfer club head speed less than 80 mph?
Hey, Michael! I played a few rounds with a 60 + senior who had ha swing speed of 76-79 MPH...He had just changed to Accra TZ Series, and got 10-15 yards of extra length. Don´t know if that helps, but he was over the moon.
Hard to say without seeing you hit or getting some more info. What you hit right now, what shaft is in your irons and fairway woods. How high do you hit it?
Where do you buy heads from?
Complicated question. Usually you can not buy heads from major OEM brands unless you have an account and a long term relationship with them.
Interesting, I’m a beginner to golf, I’ve only played a couple matches in my life but I’m wanting to get myself some clubs, your videos draw a lot of interest to me because I love DIY projects, and this seems like one I could handle if I had the parts to build the clubs what would you recommend to a beginner on a budget to get some clubs? I was going to take your advice on a half set of irons instead of a full set to save some money and also teach myself how to use the clubs in my bag
Note : I am 6’5, I need +1” clubs so used clubs I am open to but finding the +1” is a struggle for me
@@trentcooper5529 Might also want B heads that are lighter if you are going to build them an inch or more over.
@@trentcooper5529 Might look at Golfworks for component parts. They sell heads that are less expensive than the big names but good quality.
Elite Fit Golf for part two of the video
ruclips.net/user/EliteFitGolf
Way easier and cleaner to adjust head weight with tungsten powder. Then you don't have to worry about shims or flex changes. Install ferrules and heads, let it dry. then double check swing weight and add tungsten powder to desired swing weight.
Tungsten powder with graphite is not a good idea. The internal diameter of the shaft requires you to add powder much higher into the shaft. This means that you need to add much more weight in order to achieve a desired balance point. The more you add, the less efficient it becomes in changing the balance. Not good. Not good.
I have tinkered with a half set this past year. I don’t get why companies make iron lofts with only 3 degrees gap at the long end of the bag. I’m 60, and swing my 6 iron right around 80 mph. I think 7 or 8 degrees between irons is a good gapping. I had driver, 7 wood, 4 hybrid, 5, 7, 9 iron, gap and sand wedge, putter. 👍🏼⛳️🏌🏽♂️
I always end up bending loft to 4* gaps
@@markthegolfaddict9051 I used to play 4* loft gaps. As I get older and slower, it's just not enough. For me...
Been playing a half set for a few years and I’ll never go back to full. It’s like painting with less colours, forces you to be more creative, also lighter to carry. D,3H,4,6,8,PW,54,58.
Thanks for the videos, just put new shafts and ferrules on last week 👍