I am 65. I have fitted clubs all my life. I 100% agree with this video explanation!!! Tom Wishon, a custom club maker / designer, has been a real pro in the golf world forever, has a fantastic chart folks. Yes, consult it. OUTSTANDING video. Watch it at least twice!
I carry the Taylormade Mini Driver and have for a decade. (I recently upgraded to the newest version.) This gives me a driver at 43.5", which is what we used to play with steel. I am way more accurate with it, and while it is about 15 yds shorter, I'm much more likely to max it out as opposed to a driver. Way more center hits. It's great to be accurate.
Your videos are always easy to understand and informative. Thank you! I just found your stuff after taking a 10 year break from golf. Now I’ve got the bug again and want to shorten my driver. Thanks for the help!
@@Orion2525people have different reasons for not being able to play for any amount of years they just don't loose interest, thx unlucky ones might have no car anymore,moved away or even in jail
@@beng4647 not really. Average tour length is like 45”. 45.75” -46” is what they sell off the rack in stores. Even Rory played a 44” driver for years and he was hitting 320 yard bombs. It’s more about strike location. You can hit a 50” shaft all you want but if it’s off the heel and toe 90% of the time your not gonna get much distance. but if you can get fit for a 44.5” and hit the center of the face more often your not gonna lose much if any, may even gain distance but definitely gain accuracy. Your club head speed will definitely be less but if you’re hitting the center of the face 7/10x vs a longer shaft maybe 3/10 you’ll be hitting it a lot further on average. That’s why the mini drivers are so popular, a full 2” shorter than stock w a smaller head but only lose maybe 10-15 yards of distance on average & a tighter dispersion vs a longer driver.
A longer club will ALWAYS be heavier. Always. Assuming it is the same head, and same shaft material. 2. A shorter club will usually force the golfer to swing more upright, along the line of play - thereby being more accurate. Jack Nicklaus always used a driver 1/4" shorter than standard. He wanted an overall lighter club for more velocity, and a little more upright for accuracy. Generally we reccomend the Nicklaus method. Each club 1/4 inch shorter than standard. Generally, standard length of a 9 iron is 36". We reccommended 35.75 inches. A standard graphite driver is 45". We reccommended the driver be 44.50 - 44.75 inches. The club will be lighter and the swing a little more upright. Clubs too long are: 1. Too heavy. 2. Put the golfer too far from the ball. 3. Harder to contol 4. Induce a flat swing. Slightly shorter clubs of standard will improve all golfers. Nicklaus is proof.
Maybe that is why I suck. I bought my clubs +1" because I did not like leaning over. But 1/4" shorter? Who would even notice that. Jack played better because his clubs were 1/4" shorter than standard? Give me a break.
@@dannywalker1635 ..shorten your clubs to standard or 1/4 inch shorter. Stand closer to ball. Practice 3 months that way. Golf takes time, devotion, and practice. Don't be negative.
Interesting. After two back surgeries my surgeon has cleared me to return to golf. This is purely recreational, being out there playing is the goal. I'm 6' 1" and 90kg. My swing speed is pretty slow and my swing is short and flat. My back doesn't like leaning over, so for example I'm comfortable swinging a 5 hybrid whilst standing upright but not comfortable leaning over for an 8 iron for example. I've given away my standard length irons, they were off the shelf and always felt too small. I'm thinking of getting regular flex graphite shafted cobra t rail irons with all of the shafts at +1.5 inches in order to have me leaning over less. Less leaning means less back problems and more golf and more golf is the goal. Any advice greatly appreciated
I've had so many golfers that are 6' 3" or taller, that have been measured wrist to floor which shows them at +1/2-3/4" over standard yet they are so bent over and in a bad golfing posture that they have a very hard time to get consistent contact. They usually end up +1" to even 2".
I don’t understand the chart. I can see the WTF column and understand that you have to find the page with the figure for the height you have measured wrist to floor. But what I don’t understand is the meaning of the other columns. “Ht”? “Lie”? “7i”, etc. Does 7i stands for Seven Iron? What about the other irons, woods, etc? Please provide your explanation about the columns in the chart!! Thank you!
Ht - how tall are you? Lie - the lie angle when you naturally grip the club. Is the tow coming up? Is the toe being depressed so the heel is rising? The lie on the iron head can be adjusted about 4 degrees flatter or 4 degrees more upright. 7i - 7 iron. The Irons graduate length in .5" increments, so clubs like 8, 9, will be 1/2 inch shorter than the 7. If your length was 36.5" for a 7i, the 8i would be minus .5", then .5" more for the 9i. Going the other way, 6i would be in .5" increments through the irons greater than the 7i. Example: the 6i would be 37", etc. Wedges are generally all the same length, regardless of their face loft angle (52GW vs 60 degree LW, same length for all of the wedges. Why? Consistency in creating the same swing for those clubs with the only differences being their face loft angle.) A person of greater height would have a much more upright lie angle, a shorter person, a much flatter lie angle. Recommendation? Go to Golf Works website. Order Ralph Maltby's Club Fitting manual. He lays all of this out in extreme detail. Decades ago, I went to a Maltby Club Fitting Course in person. It was a ton of fun.
Woods. These are different creatures than irons. I personally worked with a 48" driver for years. Over a lot of time I could really get the ball out there. I do not recommend it. Yes, a longer lever, more power longer golf shot...BUT, your timing must be impeccable! I quickly learned that shorter woods, less dispersion, less trouble found from the tee or fairway. My driver today is 42". The others go down in .5" increments from the one before it. I quit chasing length of a shot long ago. I play boring old man golf right down the middle, chip on one putt quite a bit. I am 65, have had three lower back surgeries. My drive goes 230, pretty straight. I play woods down to 11W. I still play the regular tees. I carry a 14 handicap. You have to find what length your woods will be based on RESULTS. The fastest way to shave strokes? Never hit out of bounds, hit into water, sand, or woods. That is purely mental decision making. There is a course I play where a pond starts 150yds off the tee. I hit an iron short of that pond EVERY time. I can only clear that pond about 50% of the time with driver! Second shot is a 5W, center of the fairway. Hit your highest confidence club that keeps you out of the crap over 80% to 90% of the time. Woods are VERY individual to each and every person. Also, a club fitting is a great investment if you do not have faith in fitting yourself. Why? It will get you on track fast. A pro club fitter will achieve those results so fast for you. If you bypass experimentation, all that is left is working with a PGA pro to work on your swing. That is my best advice. I started working with a pro when I was 14. After about a year, I knew the fundamentals and was fixing my swing regularly. If a dumb 14 year old can do that, an adult should be able to accomplish more, faster. Why? You are older, mature, and more disciplined. Lastly, consider super game improvement irons. (wide soles, low center of gravity, designed to get the ball to optimal height which allows that pro-like soft landing and balls that check up on the greens.) Right now, Taylor Made and Cleveland have some OUTSTANDIG irons in that category. I have a playing foursome buddy that recently went to Eleven Golf hybrids, the complete set. He is holding a solid 10 handicap from his previous 18. Food for thought. I may join him with the Eleven hybrids!!
Hi AJ, I am 83 and also a big Wishon fan and have always used his chart to modify my clubs, specifically my driver which I cut down to my preferred length. I shorten my other clubs by choking down approx 1/2". My problem is with my driver at 43.5 " length, my flex jumps from senior flex to a regular and the only way to compensate is to add significant weight to the head. I do use lead tape to help with the weight. I recently bought a Titleist driver w/ladies flex, cut it down to my length and it seems to do the job for me. I've thought using a counter weight but am not sure that it would give me the right flex. I get flak from my golf buddies but it quiets down when I out drive them and remind them that Tiger used a 43.75" driver for many years.
Your video on removing a golf group you said to warm the group traded today. What a happy man I am thanks very much for the information love all your videos. Keep going you are the best
I started golfing in '99, "stock" length was 37.75" in a 5i. Now that's the 6i length. All the graphite clubs were .5" longer to make the correct swing weight. And remember it'll effect the lie angle too.
Tx MC, for this very informative vid. I’ve been looking hi n low for this info. I appreciate your work in putting this together. 🙏. Although I didn’t see the length chart
Need more info. Is the chart suggesting 7-iron length? What is the typical difference in club length besides the 7-iron? I/2 inch per iron up or down? What about the woods?
Yes it's 7i and each iron will usually move in 1/2 inch intervals. Woods get tricky because the industry has made fairways and especially drivers far longer than anyone would be fit for.
I am 6'6", and my irons are all 4 iron shafts, all set to +5". Yes, +2" is SUPPOSED to be the max, but Bill Laimbeer (former Detroit Pistons Center, 6'9", scratch) told me to go +5" and it works great and great on my back. This is because I'm all arms and legs, not long torso and the standard advice for +2" max does not take into account WHY people are tall. There are two types. The other one is long torso, like a former Detroit Lion, Joan Roque (friend) who is also 6'9" but long torso, my arms and legs are longer than his are.
I would think so.... I am somewhat long torso, but I get my 6'6" from my legs, and my arms are really long. 6'8" wingspan, same as Dennis Rodman. So I need the longer clubs, but long torso tall person might not. Still, worth a try. I did just 7 iron first. Use 4 iron shaft, Tru Temper.. @@rubenolmedo3025
I ordered mine +1 inch so I can choke down & still have the length of the club without losing any distance from the standard length of the club. It also helps me prevent allowing the club to slip when I'm using the full length & gives me better control of the clubface.
I have a question, you mention is a good start point. What about a person has the same height with another and also the same lenght from wrist to floor. But one guy has the hip bone where the hips bend for the posture two inches higher than the other guy. That will indicate he will need longer clubs. I think that is my case. The proportion legs and torso is another variable that you have to consider.
USGA must have a methodology for determining length since they limit the driver. Static measurements and lie boards back to the Stone Age. No substitute for a club fitting with dynamic measurements and a good fitter and I emphasize good. Maybe another collaboration with Mr Shortgame, are static charts a good starting point.
Some fitters say to start with the length your method comes to then start adding length to see how long of a club can be used while still making contact in, or close to,the center of the face.
I cannot find this chart….. I am 6’ 1.5” with a wrist to floor (no shoes) of 33”. Doesn’t the length also change if you change the angle of the head? What club does that measurement give you or does it put you in a starting position only?
The chart gives you a measurement of over or under standard. I would take the measurement with shoes on, though it probably won't change the final measurement range. The lie angle should be measured and adjusted independently of the length. Some times the length will impact the dynamic lie, but for some golfers it won't.
Thanks for the info. Wishon's chart also includes "Initial Lie". I'm guessing it tells you how many degrees upright or flat you should start at. But what is the starting point of 0 they use on the chart (61, 62, 63 degrees, etc.) for that theoretical 7i lie angle?
I never use the lie measurement on the chart since as you point out, there is no starting reference point. I get the length and then measure the lie separately since different clubs have different starting lies.
I wish you had shown the chart or a link to the chart! I have no idea what length of club I need! You are either very tall or have short arms. You measure 35.5 wrist to floor, but I measure 33. I am 6’1.5” tall
Such a great and informative video. Now I can almost order those Takomo irons. What if you measure 1/4" wrist height between 2? Better to go long since you can always choke down 1/4" I would assume.
How about single plan swing? How do you measure that length? Seems to me, best way would be use an alignment stick or other gardening stick. Set up clubs at your comfortable and reproducible stance with club head position in neutral correct fashion on grown. Then measure from base of toe to top of club. If need to “raise the ground” with some blocks to get club head position correct as you get into your comfortable position, you the add the height of the blocks to calculate the correct length.
Got a question I've always wondered about. I was always taught when measuring with the 48 ruler, the center of the sole should be touching the ground to be considered at its playing lie. But today, I see a lot of clubs, woods especially that the score lines isnt parrallel with the ground that way. What would you say is a better indicator? Sole position or score lines?
What club do you use for the bench mark with the wrist measurement. All my clubs are different lengths like my five is shorter than my 3 wood but longer than the lower irons
7i at 37 inches is considered standard. Each iron moves in 1/2 inch length increments from there. Wedges move in 1/4 inch increments. Standard driver around 45, standard 3 wood around 43, 5w at 42 inch.
Hi AJ love your content have found it very useful. I have a question. I have found a putter that works for me the downside is it feels short. My Q is if I extend it am I likely to lose the feeling that makes it work so well?
If you extend it and don't like it, you can always remove the extension and return to how it was. Worst case, you burn a grip or two with the experiment. If you install the grip with air, then you can reuse and not worry about it.
I have a question about tip trimming. I bought 7 Aerotech Steelfiber i95 regular shafts and 1 shaft is 1/8 inch longer than the rest when i lined up the steel fiber logo. My question is do i measure from the tip accordingly then cut it or is the logo more important to line up? Thank you
I think i will line up the logo and then cut it accordingly so if i decide to sell it later all of the logos are exactly 1/2 apart from each other. Looks more uniform. Maybe i can use this shaft in the PW since it is the shortest club with these shaft. Thanks
I’m building a set for a women 5’2”. Still getting her wrist to floor measurement. Question is: would you tip trim softer/less if the final length is -1” or more for L flex shaft?
How much does the height of your shoes matter? I have low profile shoes like Footjoy and more cushioned shoes like the Adidas Ultraboost. The difference can be a 1/2 inch
Same for graphite and steel? I see a lot of graphite shafts 1/2” longer than steel for swing weight. Theoretically is choking down lowering the swing weight anyway?
Yep, the 1/2 inch is used for balancing out the lighter shafts. Choking down or cutting the shaft down will both result in lowering the SW within 1pt of each other.
Question: My seven iron length is 37 which and my wrist to floor 33.50 inches. My 3 hybrid is 39.5. I seam to struggle with longer shaft's past 38''. Any suggestion? Thank you and love your video's.
I would choke down an inch on those longer irons and the 3 hybrid and see if that helps with consistency. It's likely you won't lose much if any distance because your strike pattern will be more consistent. If you decide you like then better at that length, you can cut them down or just keep choking down on them.
Will depend on the feel you are looking for, the weight of the shaft and the weight of the grip. Some people don't like the lighter feel with graphite so the extra 1/2 inch gives a little more head feel.
So you measured your wrist flex point to floor as 35 1/2 ". What then ? What club(s) should be 35 1/2 " ? How does this affect driver/woods length, if at all?
You combine the wrist measurement with your height to get the recommended iron length. I always recommend standard for a driver should play at 45 inches. If you are under standard for iron length then I would take 1/2 inch off the driver. If you are 1 inch long on irons, I would go to 45 1/2 with the driver.
I am 5,10" tall, my wrist to floor length is 33 inches. The Ping color chart indicates standard length shafts ,1 degree flat lie angle. Taco no golf chart indicates 1/2 inch shorter than standard length. Sub 70 indicates 1/2 inch short standard lie angle. Which do you recomend?
1) If you want a shaft under 85g, graphite will be a better choice as steel gets too thin. Or if you want something very stiff in the sub 100g range. 2) If you have joint pain or soreness from hitting balls. 3) Prefer the look and or feel of graphite.
The hook on the tape measurer needs to retract so you get an exact measurement. The movement of the hook is the same. as the thickness of the hook. So if you hook something, the hook thickness is past the measurement of the object. If you are measuring inside to inside, like a window and the hook if now part of the measurement, the hook needs to slide back the thickness of that hook to correct your measurement. So in your example, the hook needs to slide back as you cannot measure past the carpet, so it is now an inside to inside measurement. You are not hooking around something to measure. But thanks for all the info.
Would you comment on what to wear on your feet when measuring WTF - bare feet, street shoes, golf shoes (with / without cleats - also bare floor, carpet etc.). It seems it would make a difference.
So the chart shows measurements for a 7 iron only. So how do you figure out what length you need for the other clubs. Like how long should my driver shaft be or my sand wedge shaft?
Irons in general move in 1/2 inch increments although there is no law that they have too. Again different people will do it differently but I usually go in 1/2 inch down to the 9 iron. Then all the wedges I go in 1/4 inch increments per 4 degrees so a standard 7 iron at 37 inches will lead into a 36 inch 9 iron, a 35 3/4 inch PW, a 35 1/2 GW. Drivers are a different animal because they are already far longer than what is considered "standard". The industry standard is around 45 1/2 but I would rarely consider going longer even if you measure out 1 inch over standard on irons. However if you measure under, I would strongly consider cutting down the driver.
So have a question for you. According to the measurement and the chart I should be using a 37.5" 7 iron. I currently play a 7 iron at 37.25. Will it make that much of a difference adding a quarter of in inch?
I never use the lie measurement provided there. Prefer to measure that independently. The length and 7i length are the same, the 7i just uses a 37 inches as the standard and moves up or down from there.
I would strongly consider shortening the driver, might not need to be 1.5 inches though. Driver length is all about finding the longest length that you still get consistent contact with.
I looked at the chart and since I'm 5'9", it basically recommends a standard 0 on the length modification with 37" for a 7i regardless of wrist to floor length. I guess I got lucky and don't need to measure my WTF length. Do I just add or subtract 1 inch for different irons (e.g. 8i = 36", 9i = 35", 6i = 38", 5 i= 39" etc.)? How do I figure out the recommended lenths for drivers and woods if my 7i is 37"? Should hybrid lengths be the same as the corresponding long iron (3h = 3i, 4h=4i)? This video was very helpful. Thank you.
Each iron moves in 1/2 inch intervals until you hit the wedges then most move to 1/4. Hybrids are usually 1/2 to 1 inch longer than the iron of equal number. Driver gets tricky because all drivers are sold at longer than any measured standard. I still like a driver at 45 inches as my standard even through most brands are now at 45 1/2 or more.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the clarifications. I've always used a 45" driver but wondered how that became the more or less standard. I might experiment with 44" and 46" driver lengths someday to see if it makes a difference for me. Thanks again.
So this is to get your length for a 7 iron with you can than build your iron set around. How would you use this to know the lengths of what your hybrid woods or driver should be
Hybrids and fairways I would apply the same measurements to although making fairway woods longer is not always going to work. Driver I would never make longer than "standard" but if you measure out shorter, I would for sure look at cutting the driver down.
This seems backwards to me. Why not first establish what the posture is in which you can make an effective golf swing. Due to anatomical differences, or flexibility issues, it seems to me that this will be quite different for different individuals. For my part, I find it hard to make a good swing when I'm bent forward to the degree that is recommended in all the instructional videos. My back swing is okay, but when I try to complete the swing and deliver the club head in an inside-out path, it tends to hurt my back. I feel like if I used longer clubs, I could more easily make an effective swing, without wrenching my back. I note that Fred Couples doesn't seem to lean over much at all in his swing, yet hits the ball great, and it looks easy for him.
Not backwards more like not dynamic. With all the hitting bays available now, using some impact stickers and variety of lengths can be tried to find what fits best. The ruler would be just a starting point. The other thing that needs to be addressed is lie angle. which could also be seen with dynamic fitting. The days of basing specs solely from a ruler have past. I did a fitting and told the guy I was 1/2 over with 2 degrees flat. He did not believe me until I hit balls and the impact stickers proved it out. He wanted to put me in shorter more upright clubs and that would have sucked.
So if you find out that your clubs are 1 in.short, can that be corrected when regripping to just not push the grip all the way?. It's alot cheaper then a newer set of clubs.
No, you can't do that. Then you would have the last inch of grip just flopping around without any support. You can however get some shaft extensions and epoxy them into the shaft, cut to desired length and then grip them. Extensions are cheap, couple dollars each.
Quick tips if you do not have a 48" aluminum ruler. Take an old measuring tape you do not mind losing, and pull the tape out to 50-60", standing against a wall, drill through the 60" or 5' mark to the wall and attach with a screw. Do the same at the very bottom. If u do not want to drill in to a wall, drill it in to a 2x4 or scrap wood. U can also get a tailors tape measure that is nylon. U can stretch that out and tape it to the wall. While on measuring tape still, take a meas tape again, the metal hook that is at the bottom, at 0, fold that behind the tape to almost touching, when u use it for club measure, u wouldn't run in to the measurement being off by 1/2" or so.
@@darrenrider5676 The avg golfer has a much better chance of having an old tape measure, yes with the tape made of aluminum as most are, than scrap aluminum or other thin metals. Just trying to help someone that doesn't have a large stock of metals or wood, to still be able to work on their equipment.
@@darrenrider5676 Ah, I got it, you're one of those people. However, you're giving us the European spelling. North American/American English spelling IS aluminum.
Love your content big fan. I am really struggling with this and I am installing my own iron shafts. I have had 2 previous sets of irons and they were both standard however when I measure they are .5" long. I'm no carpenter but I shouldn't be .5" off. I used a measuring tape and unlike in your video I flipped the little tab upward flush agaist the sole of clubhead and I come up that my standard clubs which are both equal to each other are .5" long. Now I don't know what to do. If I cut by measurements you show they will be .5" shorter than both standard length sets I have playes.
If the extra length isn't an issue at the ends of the set (longest and shortest irons) then I say just play it. Or try it at that length with one of the end clubs and then try choking down that 1/2 inch and see what yields better results.
Is the WTF table unisex? Granddaughter shows a 36” 7i at 5’2”. Traditional ladies regular length is 36” and -1 for petite. Where does your confidence lie? Wishon’s work or the “wisdom”? Thanks
So based on the chart you provided, I have a 35.5 inch wtf measurement and I am 5ft 9 inches tall so does this mean that the lie angle should be plus 2 degrees? I see some charts that suggest no lie adjustment. What do you think and why do you like this chart?
I like the chart for length. I don't use it for lie angle. I think the only way to test lie angle is using a dynamic test using a sharpie line or a launch monitor.
I am trying to order some Takomo irons and trying to determine our angle. Can’t do that remotely since they don’t offer fittings. What do you suggest then to determine our angle in that case?
Hi, I have a question about using brass tip weight for graphite shaft. I have used 4g brass tip weight 1 1/4 inch length, but I have rattling noise every time I kinda bang the club on the ground. I guess the brass tip weight stem is touching the side of the shaft inside. Would you please let me know I do I prevent this and get rid of this noise. Thank you very much.
The flex in general does not change much when butt cutting a shaft. Yes, you are shortening the shaft that will increase the frequency measurement but since you are cutting away the stiffest portion of the club, it really cancels out. Where you will notice a flex change is if you start changing the head weight of the driver.
AJ, I like your content as I'm happy to tinker with my clubs. I'm ready to shorten my Callaway X-16 irons - standard set (3-PW/SW). I plan on taking 3/4" of each club, based on my height (5' 5.5") and WTF (31.5"). My 7 iron is 37". The length reduction is a kind of average across a few charts I have seen and I think feels about right for me. I removed the grip from the 7 iron and it weighs 55g. The new grips are 51g. I measured the swing weight of all clubs and they are D3. I reckon the shortening will drop around 4-5 points and the lighter grips may gain a point?, ending up around D0. Would this swing weight change apply to all clubs when I take the same length off each. Thanks.
How’d it go? I was going to recommend you stick with only -1/2” PGA Tour pros rarely going outside +/- 0.5” based on everything I’ve seen so that the swing weight doesn’t get too messed up
@@BigDawgCAMI took 1/2” off my irons and 3/4” off my woods and driver. Swing weights worked out fine at C9 give or take a fraction and I’m happy with the length. I recently bought a couple of Mack Daddy CB wedges which are still standard but I’m ok with them for now.
@@JockyT1 Love it man! I'm taller, but +1" never sat well with me. I'm about to go down to just +1/2" on my irons and from a 46" to 44" driver. Wish me luck!
Always interesting to watch your videos. I look at the Wishon chart and the lie angle change -or + based on the initial club lie angle. I know that for a 7 iron it is around 63. What initial lie angle Mr.Wishon used for example a 7 iron? Thanks
If after measuring my clubs if I find that some are to long. What do I do to fix it? I have a tuff time with my drivers and I think they may be to long. Do I have to get new clubs or can they be modified?
This gives you the iron length which we then would build or spec out the entire set around. The length will impact weight, swing weight, lie angle etc so we want to know the length pretty early on so we can find the appropriate shafts and heads for the build.
I greatly appreciate the content on your channel.. I was hoping you could help me with a question? I am in the market for some new clubs and I am considering getting clubs made for my size. 6ft6in tall with 41.5 wtf measurement but this seems to be off the chart or I am not reading it correctly.. Could you help me with that?
I usually correlate a 37 inch 7i with a 45 to 45 1/4 inch driver. Shorter can be shorter on the driver, never recommend anyone go over 45 1/2 on a driver regardless of height.
But now how do you buy your clubs to your length? For me, I need 38 inch 7 iron but it doesn’t say what the others are supposed to be and when I try to Google clubs where the 7 iron is 38 inches, it doesn’t seem like a helpful search to get to what I’m looking for.
I was just googling this last week and was instructed to measure from top of grip to the middle of the clubface, not to the bottom of hosel as you showed us.
That is not the standard way to do it. It isn't critical unless your club length is very close to the maximum length allowed under the rules. Meauring the way you describe will overstate the length slightly.
I am 6’4. So obviously standards are too short. With my specific measurements, I need a longer shaft. Do I cut the shaft based on measuring with the club head slipped on from sole towards butt, or just the entire shaft itself from tip towards butt?
I am 65. I have fitted clubs all my life. I 100% agree with this video explanation!!! Tom Wishon, a custom club maker / designer, has been a real pro in the golf world forever, has a fantastic chart folks. Yes, consult it. OUTSTANDING video. Watch it at least twice!
Probably the easiest method to measure. No nonsense explanation, direct to the point….and link to the best chart. Thank u!
I carry the Taylormade Mini Driver and have for a decade. (I recently upgraded to the newest version.) This gives me a driver at 43.5", which is what we used to play with steel. I am way more accurate with it, and while it is about 15 yds shorter, I'm much more likely to max it out as opposed to a driver. Way more center hits. It's great to be accurate.
Your videos are always easy to understand and informative. Thank you! I just found your stuff after taking a 10 year break from golf. Now I’ve got the bug again and want to shorten my driver. Thanks for the help!
That's crazy.
I'd just get a 12 degree driver if you want more consistency. Shaft length gives you distance.
10 year break? Wow, that must have been one very bad day of golf 10 years ago.😅
@@Orion2525people have different reasons for not being able to play for any amount of years they just don't loose interest, thx unlucky ones might have no car anymore,moved away or even in jail
@@beng4647 not really. Average tour length is like 45”.
45.75” -46” is what they sell off the rack in stores. Even Rory played a 44” driver for years and he was hitting 320 yard bombs. It’s more about strike location. You can hit a 50” shaft all you want but if it’s off the heel and toe 90% of the time your not gonna get much distance. but if you can get fit for a 44.5” and hit the center of the face more often your not gonna lose much if any, may even gain distance but definitely gain accuracy. Your club head speed will definitely be less but if you’re hitting the center of the face 7/10x vs a longer shaft maybe 3/10 you’ll be hitting it a lot further on average. That’s why the mini drivers are so popular, a full 2” shorter than stock w a smaller head but only lose maybe 10-15 yards of distance on average & a tighter dispersion vs a longer driver.
So golf begins with your back against the wall. How fitting is that?
😂😂👏👏
The chart of reference is adjusted for that.
Great reply & the absolute truth!
Bravo 👏
Life.....
Using Masking tape for wrist to floor measurement is a neat tip. Great video
A longer club will ALWAYS be heavier. Always. Assuming it is the same head, and same shaft material. 2. A shorter club will usually force the golfer to swing more upright, along the line of play - thereby being more accurate. Jack Nicklaus always used a driver 1/4" shorter than standard. He wanted an overall lighter club for more velocity, and a little more upright for accuracy. Generally we reccomend the Nicklaus method. Each club 1/4 inch shorter than standard. Generally, standard length of a 9 iron is 36". We reccommended 35.75 inches. A standard graphite driver is 45". We reccommended the driver be 44.50 - 44.75 inches. The club will be lighter and the swing a little more upright. Clubs too long are: 1. Too heavy. 2. Put the golfer too far from the ball. 3. Harder to contol
4. Induce a flat swing.
Slightly shorter clubs of standard will improve all golfers. Nicklaus is proof.
Maybe that is why I suck. I bought my clubs +1" because I did not like leaning over. But 1/4" shorter? Who would even notice that. Jack played better because his clubs were 1/4" shorter than standard? Give me a break.
@@dannywalker1635 ..shorten your clubs to standard or 1/4 inch shorter. Stand closer to ball. Practice 3 months that way. Golf takes time, devotion, and practice. Don't be negative.
@@blairsterling6141 Thanks.
@@dannywalker1635 happy ⛳ golfing ! " a bad day on the course is 1,000 times better than a good day at the office " ⛳
Interesting. After two back surgeries my surgeon has cleared me to return to golf. This is purely recreational, being out there playing is the goal. I'm 6' 1" and 90kg. My swing speed is pretty slow and my swing is short and flat.
My back doesn't like leaning over, so for example I'm comfortable swinging a 5 hybrid whilst standing upright but not comfortable leaning over for an 8 iron for example.
I've given away my standard length irons, they were off the shelf and always felt too small.
I'm thinking of getting regular flex graphite shafted cobra t rail irons with all of the shafts at +1.5 inches in order to have me leaning over less. Less leaning means less back problems and more golf and more golf is the goal.
Any advice greatly appreciated
Thanks for your no nonsense to the point videos. Very helpful.
Been looking for exactly this, came up in my feed. Quick, and informative, ez to follow . Subbed. 👍
I've had so many golfers that are 6' 3" or taller, that have been measured wrist to floor which shows them at +1/2-3/4" over standard yet they are so bent over and in a bad golfing posture that they have a very hard time to get consistent contact. They usually end up +1" to even 2".
Thank you fro the information! 6'1", 37" Wrist to Floor = Initial Lie: 3, Length: 0.5, 7i: 37.5"
I cannot find this chart….. I am 6’ 1.5” with a wrist to floor (no shoes) of 33”.
Doesn’t the length also change if you change the angle of the head?
@@brexit9279 wishongolf.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Height-Wrist-to-Floor-Charts.pdf
I don’t understand the chart. I can see the WTF column and understand that you have to find the page with the figure for the height you have measured wrist to floor. But what I don’t understand is the meaning of the other columns. “Ht”? “Lie”? “7i”, etc. Does 7i stands for Seven Iron? What about the other irons, woods, etc? Please provide your explanation about the columns in the chart!! Thank you!
Yikes!!
I dont understand the chart either. I thought this video was going to be about the chart, not how to measure my body, sheesh. Click Bait.
Ht - how tall are you?
Lie - the lie angle when you naturally grip the club. Is the tow coming up? Is the toe being depressed so the heel is rising? The lie on the iron head can be adjusted about 4 degrees flatter or 4 degrees more upright.
7i - 7 iron. The Irons graduate length in .5" increments, so clubs like 8, 9, will be 1/2 inch shorter than the 7. If your length was 36.5" for a 7i, the 8i would be minus .5", then .5" more for the 9i. Going the other way, 6i would be in .5" increments through the irons greater than the 7i. Example: the 6i would be 37", etc. Wedges are generally all the same length, regardless of their face loft angle (52GW vs 60 degree LW, same length for all of the wedges. Why? Consistency in creating the same swing for those clubs with the only differences being their face loft angle.)
A person of greater height would have a much more upright lie angle, a shorter person, a much flatter lie angle.
Recommendation? Go to Golf Works website. Order Ralph Maltby's Club Fitting manual. He lays all of this out in extreme detail. Decades ago, I went to a Maltby Club Fitting Course in person. It was a ton of fun.
Woods. These are different creatures than irons. I personally worked with a 48" driver for years. Over a lot of time I could really get the ball out there. I do not recommend it. Yes, a longer lever, more power longer golf shot...BUT, your timing must be impeccable! I quickly learned that shorter woods, less dispersion, less trouble found from the tee or fairway. My driver today is 42". The others go down in .5" increments from the one before it. I quit chasing length of a shot long ago. I play boring old man golf right down the middle, chip on one putt quite a bit. I am 65, have had three lower back surgeries. My drive goes 230, pretty straight. I play woods down to 11W. I still play the regular tees. I carry a 14 handicap.
You have to find what length your woods will be based on RESULTS. The fastest way to shave strokes? Never hit out of bounds, hit into water, sand, or woods. That is purely mental decision making. There is a course I play where a pond starts 150yds off the tee. I hit an iron short of that pond EVERY time. I can only clear that pond about 50% of the time with driver! Second shot is a 5W, center of the fairway. Hit your highest confidence club that keeps you out of the crap over 80% to 90% of the time.
Woods are VERY individual to each and every person. Also, a club fitting is a great investment if you do not have faith in fitting yourself. Why? It will get you on track fast. A pro club fitter will achieve those results so fast for you. If you bypass experimentation, all that is left is working with a PGA pro to work on your swing. That is my best advice. I started working with a pro when I was 14. After about a year, I knew the fundamentals and was fixing my swing regularly. If a dumb 14 year old can do that, an adult should be able to accomplish more, faster. Why? You are older, mature, and more disciplined.
Lastly, consider super game improvement irons. (wide soles, low center of gravity, designed to get the ball to optimal height which allows that pro-like soft landing and balls that check up on the greens.) Right now, Taylor Made and Cleveland have some OUTSTANDIG irons in that category. I have a playing foursome buddy that recently went to Eleven Golf hybrids, the complete set. He is holding a solid 10 handicap from his previous 18. Food for thought. I may join him with the Eleven hybrids!!
@@MichaelSisley-fw3xr cheers for that , well put
should you do this while wearing your shoes/golf shoes?
Yes. Absolutely 100% yes.
Only if you wear them while golfing
But remember, if you ever do decide to go golfing barefoot, you'll have to choke down on the club.
Thanks much for your video. It’s just what I needed to get the job done on a rainy day at home today.
Hi AJ, I am 83 and also a big Wishon fan and have always used his chart to modify my clubs, specifically my driver which I cut down to my preferred length. I shorten my other clubs by choking down approx 1/2". My problem is with my driver at 43.5 " length, my flex jumps from senior flex to a regular and the only way to compensate is to add significant weight to the head. I do use lead tape to help with the weight. I recently bought a Titleist driver w/ladies flex, cut it down to my length and it seems to do the job for me. I've thought using a counter weight but am not sure that it would give me the right flex. I get flak from my golf buddies but it quiets down when I out drive them and remind them that Tiger used a 43.75" driver for many years.
The counter weight won't change anything in how the shaft flexes so I wouldn't worry about that.
Your video on removing a golf group you said to warm the group traded today. What a happy man I am thanks very much for the information love all your videos. Keep going you are the best
I started golfing in '99, "stock" length was 37.75" in a 5i. Now that's the 6i length. All the graphite clubs were .5" longer to make the correct swing weight. And remember it'll effect the lie angle too.
The 6i is a 5i they just changed the number on it.
For my Driver I went from 45.5" length to 46.5" and it added about 10 Yards of Total Distance
Thank you for your effort. Tt is good if you are precise about the point. Many words do not give the point.
Tx MC, for this very informative vid. I’ve been looking hi n low for this info. I appreciate your work in putting this together. 🙏. Although I didn’t see the length chart
Need more info. Is the chart suggesting 7-iron length? What is the typical difference in club length besides the 7-iron? I/2 inch per iron up or down? What about the woods?
Yes it's 7i and each iron will usually move in 1/2 inch intervals. Woods get tricky because the industry has made fairways and especially drivers far longer than anyone would be fit for.
Great explanation and info , thanks for posting this!
I am 6'6", and my irons are all 4 iron shafts, all set to +5". Yes, +2" is SUPPOSED to be the max, but Bill Laimbeer (former Detroit Pistons Center, 6'9", scratch) told me to go +5" and it works great and great on my back. This is because I'm all arms and legs, not long torso and the standard advice for +2" max does not take into account WHY people are tall. There are two types. The other one is long torso, like a former Detroit Lion, Joan Roque (friend) who is also 6'9" but long torso, my arms and legs are longer than his are.
So if you are long torso should you be more true to the length Rule?
I would think so.... I am somewhat long torso, but I get my 6'6" from my legs, and my arms are really long. 6'8" wingspan, same as Dennis Rodman. So I need the longer clubs, but long torso tall person might not. Still, worth a try. I did just 7 iron first. Use 4 iron shaft, Tru Temper.. @@rubenolmedo3025
Same man. I’m 6’8” all leg, no torso, wrist to floor measurement is 41” which is freakishly long legged.
You've got me beat! Are you using longer clubs?@@WilliamLyons5
I’m using +1.5”
I ordered mine +1 inch so I can choke down & still have the length of the club without losing any distance from the standard length of the club. It also helps me prevent allowing the club to slip when I'm using the full length & gives me better control of the clubface.
@mikerodrick2430 How tall are you and what is your wrist-to-floor measurement?
I'm not in the market for clubs but I'm only 5'5.
I have a question, you mention is a good start point. What about a person has the same height with another and also the same lenght from wrist to floor. But one guy has the hip bone where the hips bend for the posture two inches higher than the other guy. That will indicate he will need longer clubs. I think that is my case. The proportion legs and torso is another variable that you have to consider.
USGA must have a methodology for determining length since they limit the driver. Static measurements and lie boards back to the Stone Age. No substitute for a club fitting with dynamic measurements and a good fitter and I emphasize good. Maybe another collaboration with Mr Shortgame, are static charts a good starting point.
Some fitters say to start with the length your method comes to then start adding length to see how long of a club can be used while still making contact in, or close to,the center of the face.
Good job! Very well presented.
I cannot find this chart…..
I am 6’ 1.5” with a wrist to floor (no shoes) of 33”.
Doesn’t the length also change if you change the angle of the head?
What club does that measurement give you or does it put you in a starting position only?
The chart gives you a measurement of over or under standard. I would take the measurement with shoes on, though it probably won't change the final measurement range.
The lie angle should be measured and adjusted independently of the length. Some times the length will impact the dynamic lie, but for some golfers it won't.
i need help I'm 5'2 and wrist to floor is 31.5 and I'm looking for a driver
very nice. is it correct assumption that I'm wea
ring my golf shoes when measuring floor to wrist?
Thanks for the info. Wishon's chart also includes "Initial Lie". I'm guessing it tells you how many degrees upright or flat you should start at. But what is the starting point of 0 they use on the chart (61, 62, 63 degrees, etc.) for that theoretical 7i lie angle?
I never use the lie measurement on the chart since as you point out, there is no starting reference point. I get the length and then measure the lie separately since different clubs have different starting lies.
You’re always worth watching.
Excellent video! When you do the measurements, is it with or without shoes? Thanks!
Shouldn't wrist to floor measuring use the average of both sides to ensure your shoulders were level?
Great video. Are you taking the wrist to floor measurement in stocking feet or with your golf shoes on?
Shoes on
Using the duct tape measurement, I’m 5’1. My waist number is 30”-31”. What is the length for an driver? Thanks
Should you put on your golf shoes when doing the wrist to floor measurement? Or should you do it without shoes on?
Shoes on.
how does this relate to each of the different irons though as longer irons are longer up to Sand wedge would would be the shortest?
Thought for accurate club length you always subtracted 1/8 of an inch to account for the drip cap on the grip?
I wish you had shown the chart or a link to the chart! I have no idea what length of club I need!
You are either very tall or have short arms. You measure 35.5 wrist to floor, but I measure 33. I am 6’1.5” tall
wishongolf.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Height-Wrist-to-Floor-Charts.pdf
Such a great and informative video. Now I can almost order those Takomo irons.
What if you measure 1/4" wrist height between 2? Better to go long since you can always choke down 1/4" I would assume.
Easy way to measure club length, but can’t find the link; can you assist please? Thank you.
How about single plan swing? How do you measure that length?
Seems to me, best way would be use an alignment stick or other gardening stick.
Set up clubs at your comfortable and reproducible stance with club head position in neutral correct fashion on grown. Then measure from base of toe to top of club. If need to “raise the ground” with some blocks to get club head position correct as you get into your comfortable position, you the add the height of the blocks to calculate the correct length.
That should work.
What does the “initial lie and length “ numbers mean? Or explain the chart for me please
Great video. Should the wrist to floor be measured with your golf shoes on?
Shoes on, though any average height shoe will yield similar results, not just golf shoes.
Got a question I've always wondered about. I was always taught when measuring with the 48 ruler, the center of the sole should be touching the ground to be considered at its playing lie. But today, I see a lot of clubs, woods especially that the score lines isnt parrallel with the ground that way. What would you say is a better indicator? Sole position or score lines?
I use the center of the sole.
What club do you use for the bench mark with the wrist measurement. All my clubs are different lengths like my five is shorter than my 3 wood but longer than the lower irons
7i at 37 inches is considered standard. Each iron moves in 1/2 inch length increments from there. Wedges move in 1/4 inch increments. Standard driver around 45, standard 3 wood around 43, 5w at 42 inch.
Hi AJ love your content have found it very useful. I have a question. I have found a putter that works for me the downside is it feels short. My Q is if I extend it am I likely to lose the feeling that makes it work so well?
If you extend it and don't like it, you can always remove the extension and return to how it was. Worst case, you burn a grip or two with the experiment. If you install the grip with air, then you can reuse and not worry about it.
Is the wrist to floor measurements with or without shoes on?
I usually say with, however as some have pointed out if you play barefoot, then measure barefoot.
Good question! I had the same one! 😊
I have a question about tip trimming. I bought 7 Aerotech Steelfiber i95 regular shafts and 1 shaft is 1/8 inch longer than the rest when i lined up the steel fiber logo. My question is do i measure from the tip accordingly then cut it or is the logo more important to line up? Thank you
Is the whole shaft longer or just the distance to the graphic? 1/8 inch isn't enough to be concerned with in my opinion.
Yes the whole shaft is longer. I had all the shafts standing up with the butt on the ground and the one tip was sticking up above the rest of the club
I think i will line up the logo and then cut it accordingly so if i decide to sell it later all of the logos are exactly 1/2 apart from each other. Looks more uniform. Maybe i can use this shaft in the PW since it is the shortest club with these shaft. Thanks
I’m building a set for a women 5’2”. Still getting her wrist to floor measurement. Question is: would you tip trim softer/less if the final length is -1” or more for L flex shaft?
You could. Not sure, would need to see the golfer before making that call.
How much does the height of your shoes matter? I have low profile shoes like Footjoy and more cushioned shoes like the Adidas Ultraboost. The difference can be a 1/2 inch
Shouldn't change the result. Just be aware of the difference if you end up in between lengths.
Same for graphite and steel? I see a lot of graphite shafts 1/2” longer than steel for swing weight. Theoretically is choking down lowering the swing weight anyway?
Yep, the 1/2 inch is used for balancing out the lighter shafts. Choking down or cutting the shaft down will both result in lowering the SW within 1pt of each other.
Question: My seven iron length is 37 which and my wrist to floor 33.50 inches. My 3 hybrid is 39.5. I seam to struggle with longer shaft's past 38''. Any suggestion? Thank you and love your video's.
I would choke down an inch on those longer irons and the 3 hybrid and see if that helps with consistency. It's likely you won't lose much if any distance because your strike pattern will be more consistent. If you decide you like then better at that length, you can cut them down or just keep choking down on them.
Thank you for the info and replying.
I’m 5’8 with 32.5” wrist to floor… chart says my 7i should be 36.5. Is that 36.5 for steel shafts? Should I add .5” for graphite?
Will depend on the feel you are looking for, the weight of the shaft and the weight of the grip. Some people don't like the lighter feel with graphite so the extra 1/2 inch gives a little more head feel.
the video is easy to understand, but where can I find the 'chart' he refers to to plug in the information?
wishongolf.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/Height-Wrist-to-Floor-Charts.pdf
Does the shaft material matter? I used your recommended chart for my steel irons but wanted to triple check before I cut down my woods and driver.
I personally use 45 inch driver as "standard" so that's my starting point.
So you measured your wrist flex point to floor as 35 1/2 ". What then ? What club(s) should be 35 1/2 " ? How does this affect driver/woods length, if at all?
You combine the wrist measurement with your height to get the recommended iron length. I always recommend standard for a driver should play at 45 inches. If you are under standard for iron length then I would take 1/2 inch off the driver. If you are 1 inch long on irons, I would go to 45 1/2 with the driver.
@@EFGMC When you say "recommended iron length" which iron in particular ?
@@bigpardner A standard 7i will be 37 inches, so go off of that. Each iron changes 1/2 inch in length as you move up or down the line.
The hook on a tape measure is accounted for in the length of
That small amount won't change the measurement results because they work off a range.
I am 5,10" tall, my wrist to floor length is 33 inches. The Ping color chart indicates standard length shafts ,1 degree flat lie angle. Taco no golf chart indicates 1/2 inch shorter than standard length. Sub 70 indicates 1/2 inch short standard lie angle. Which do you recomend?
I would start at standard length. You can always choke down or cut them down later on. Easier than having to go the other way.
Shoes on or off on the WTF measurements and your height? Is it shoes on, on both or off on both. Or on, on WTF off, on height?
Do it all with shoes on.
What are some of the deciding factors to switch from metal shafts to graphite shafts?
1) If you want a shaft under 85g, graphite will be a better choice as steel gets too thin. Or if you want something very stiff in the sub 100g range.
2) If you have joint pain or soreness from hitting balls.
3) Prefer the look and or feel of graphite.
I couldn't find the size chart on website..
The hook on the tape measurer needs to retract so you get an exact measurement. The movement of the hook is the same. as the thickness of the hook. So if you hook something, the hook thickness is past the measurement of the object. If you are measuring inside to inside, like a window and the hook if now part of the measurement, the hook needs to slide back the thickness of that hook to correct your measurement. So in your example, the hook needs to slide back as you cannot measure past the carpet, so it is now an inside to inside measurement. You are not hooking around something to measure. But thanks for all the info.
Would you comment on what to wear on your feet when measuring WTF - bare feet, street shoes, golf shoes (with / without cleats - also bare floor, carpet etc.). It seems it would make a difference.
So the chart shows measurements for a 7 iron only. So how do you figure out what length you need for the other clubs. Like how long should my driver shaft be or my sand wedge shaft?
Irons in general move in 1/2 inch increments although there is no law that they have too. Again different people will do it differently but I usually go in 1/2 inch down to the 9 iron. Then all the wedges I go in 1/4 inch increments per 4 degrees so a standard 7 iron at 37 inches will lead into a 36 inch 9 iron, a 35 3/4 inch PW, a 35 1/2 GW.
Drivers are a different animal because they are already far longer than what is considered "standard". The industry standard is around 45 1/2 but I would rarely consider going longer even if you measure out 1 inch over standard on irons. However if you measure under, I would strongly consider cutting down the driver.
@@EFGMC
Exactly the question I had.
Thanks for asking
So have a question for you. According to the measurement and the chart I should be using a 37.5" 7 iron. I currently play a 7 iron at 37.25. Will it make that much of a difference adding a quarter of in inch?
No, no difference. Only place where that might be an issue is with the shorter wedges. Might make sense to just extend those a bit if they feel short.
On the recommended chart, what's INITIAL LIE, LENGTH, and 7i LENGTH?
I never use the lie measurement provided there. Prefer to measure that independently. The length and 7i length are the same, the 7i just uses a 37 inches as the standard and moves up or down from there.
Hi, if I’m 1.5 inches shorter in 7 iron, does that mean all clubs are 1.5 shorter including driver?
I would strongly consider shortening the driver, might not need to be 1.5 inches though. Driver length is all about finding the longest length that you still get consistent contact with.
should I be taking floor to wrist measurements with shoes on or off?
That’s what I want to know. A crucial omission.
do you wear your shoes for wrist to floor measurment
Not if you play golf barefoot 😉
However you play golf.
I looked at the chart and since I'm 5'9", it basically recommends a standard 0 on the length modification with 37" for a 7i regardless of wrist to floor length. I guess I got lucky and don't need to measure my WTF length. Do I just add or subtract 1 inch for different irons (e.g. 8i = 36", 9i = 35", 6i = 38", 5 i= 39" etc.)? How do I figure out the recommended lenths for drivers and woods if my 7i is 37"? Should hybrid lengths be the same as the corresponding long iron (3h = 3i, 4h=4i)? This video was very helpful. Thank you.
Each iron moves in 1/2 inch intervals until you hit the wedges then most move to 1/4.
Hybrids are usually 1/2 to 1 inch longer than the iron of equal number. Driver gets tricky because all drivers are sold at longer than any measured standard. I still like a driver at 45 inches as my standard even through most brands are now at 45 1/2 or more.
@@EFGMC Thanks for the clarifications. I've always used a 45" driver but wondered how that became the more or less standard. I might experiment with 44" and 46" driver lengths someday to see if it makes a difference for me. Thanks again.
So this is to get your length for a 7 iron with you can than build your iron set around. How would you use this to know the lengths of what your hybrid woods or driver should be
Hybrids and fairways I would apply the same measurements to although making fairway woods longer is not always going to work. Driver I would never make longer than "standard" but if you measure out shorter, I would for sure look at cutting the driver down.
This seems backwards to me. Why not first establish what the posture is in which you can make an effective golf swing. Due to anatomical differences, or flexibility issues, it seems to me that this will be quite different for different individuals. For my part, I find it hard to make a good swing when I'm bent forward to the degree that is recommended in all the instructional videos. My back swing is okay, but when I try to complete the swing and deliver the club head in an inside-out path, it tends to hurt my back. I feel like if I used longer clubs, I could more easily make an effective swing, without wrenching my back. I note that Fred Couples doesn't seem to lean over much at all in his swing, yet hits the ball great, and it looks easy for him.
Not backwards more like not dynamic. With all the hitting bays available now, using some impact stickers and variety of lengths can be tried to find what fits best. The ruler would be just a starting point. The other thing that needs to be addressed is lie angle. which could also be seen with dynamic fitting. The days of basing specs solely from a ruler have past. I did a fitting and told the guy I was 1/2 over with 2 degrees flat. He did not believe me until I hit balls and the impact stickers proved it out. He wanted to put me in shorter more upright clubs and that would have sucked.
The main reason for this is that swing changes so does setup but body type and build does not. But both points are valid
Good point...if it too long then grab the shift lower. Problem solved.
So if you find out that your clubs are 1 in.short, can that be corrected when regripping to just not push the grip all the way?. It's alot cheaper then a newer set of clubs.
No, you can't do that. Then you would have the last inch of grip just flopping around without any support. You can however get some shaft extensions and epoxy them into the shaft, cut to desired length and then grip them. Extensions are cheap, couple dollars each.
Quick tips if you do not have a 48" aluminum ruler. Take an old measuring tape you do not mind losing, and pull the tape out to 50-60", standing against a wall, drill through the 60" or 5' mark to the wall and attach with a screw. Do the same at the very bottom. If u do not want to drill in to a wall, drill it in to a 2x4 or scrap wood. U can also get a tailors tape measure that is nylon. U can stretch that out and tape it to the wall. While on measuring tape still, take a meas tape again, the metal hook that is at the bottom, at 0, fold that behind the tape to almost touching, when u use it for club measure, u wouldn't run in to the measurement being off by 1/2" or so.
Do you mean Aluminium?
@@darrenrider5676 The avg golfer has a much better chance of having an old tape measure, yes with the tape made of aluminum as most are, than scrap aluminum or other thin metals. Just trying to help someone that doesn't have a large stock of metals or wood, to still be able to work on their equipment.
@@fredbosco6104 but it's aluminium, not aluminum
@@darrenrider5676 Ah, I got it, you're one of those people. However, you're giving us the European spelling. North American/American English spelling IS aluminum.
@@fredbosco6104 American derives from English, therefore how can the english word be wrong 🤣🤣 it's aluminium, deal with it pal, you're wrong
Love your content big fan. I am really struggling with this and I am installing my own iron shafts. I have had 2 previous sets of irons and they were both standard however when I measure they are .5" long. I'm no carpenter but I shouldn't be .5" off. I used a measuring tape and unlike in your video I flipped the little tab upward flush agaist the sole of clubhead and I come up that my standard clubs which are both equal to each other are .5" long. Now I don't know what to do. If I cut by measurements you show they will be .5" shorter than both standard length sets I have playes.
If the extra length isn't an issue at the ends of the set (longest and shortest irons) then I say just play it. Or try it at that length with one of the end clubs and then try choking down that 1/2 inch and see what yields better results.
Is the WTF table unisex? Granddaughter shows a 36” 7i at 5’2”. Traditional ladies regular length is 36” and -1 for petite. Where does your confidence lie? Wishon’s work or the “wisdom”? Thanks
I like the Wishon chart
I take it take you are in stocks when measuring your arm length?
Please confirm if you do the measurements with your golf shoes on. Thank you.
Shoes on assuming you golf in shoes.
So based on the chart you provided, I have a 35.5 inch wtf measurement and I am 5ft 9 inches tall so does this mean that the lie angle should be plus 2 degrees? I see some charts that suggest no lie adjustment. What do you think and why do you like this chart?
I like the chart for length. I don't use it for lie angle. I think the only way to test lie angle is using a dynamic test using a sharpie line or a launch monitor.
I am trying to order some Takomo irons and trying to determine our angle. Can’t do that remotely since they don’t offer fittings. What do you suggest then to determine our angle in that case?
@@stinkenlinken ruclips.net/video/BeAIN--vz68/видео.html
Hi, I have a question about using brass tip weight for graphite shaft. I have used 4g brass tip weight 1 1/4 inch length, but I have rattling noise every time I kinda bang the club on the ground. I guess the brass tip weight stem is touching the side of the shaft inside. Would you please let me know I do I prevent this and get rid of this noise. Thank you very much.
You can wrap the stem of the weight with tape to lessen the chance of any issues. That said, usually don't get a rattle from a fully set tip weight.
Thank you very much
I'm 5'7" and my driver is 45.5" reg flex which is just too much to handle. If I take off 1 inch, how will that change the flex?
The flex in general does not change much when butt cutting a shaft. Yes, you are shortening the shaft that will increase the frequency measurement but since you are cutting away the stiffest portion of the club, it really cancels out. Where you will notice a flex change is if you start changing the head weight of the driver.
AJ, I like your content as I'm happy to tinker with my clubs. I'm ready to shorten my Callaway X-16 irons - standard set (3-PW/SW). I plan on taking 3/4" of each club, based on my height (5' 5.5") and WTF (31.5"). My 7 iron is 37". The length reduction is a kind of average across a few charts I have seen and I think feels about right for me. I removed the grip from the 7 iron and it weighs 55g. The new grips are 51g. I measured the swing weight of all clubs and they are D3. I reckon the shortening will drop around 4-5 points and the lighter grips may gain a point?, ending up around D0. Would this swing weight change apply to all clubs when I take the same length off each. Thanks.
Yes, any change in SW will remain constant to how the progression was before you cut them assuming everything is cut and gripped the same.
How’d it go? I was going to recommend you stick with only -1/2”
PGA Tour pros rarely going outside +/- 0.5” based on everything I’ve seen so that the swing weight doesn’t get too messed up
@@BigDawgCAMI took 1/2” off my irons and 3/4” off my woods and driver. Swing weights worked out fine at C9 give or take a fraction and I’m happy with the length. I recently bought a couple of Mack Daddy CB wedges which are still standard but I’m ok with them for now.
@@JockyT1 Love it man! I'm taller, but +1" never sat well with me. I'm about to go down to just +1/2" on my irons and from a 46" to 44" driver. Wish me luck!
Yes, good luck - 2” off the driver is quite a step. Can you try a shorter shaft before going all in?
You mentioned wrist to floor club length for irons....does this apply the same for drivers?
Yes, I usually convert the iron measurement to the woods.
Will extending your irons change the swing weight greatly? Is it a job for a professional or can you extend at home?
It's pretty easy to do. Yes it will substantially change the SW though. 1/2 inch changes the SW around 3pts depending on the club.
Always interesting to watch your videos. I look at the Wishon chart and the lie angle change -or + based on the initial club lie angle. I know that for a 7 iron it is around 63. What initial lie angle Mr.Wishon used for example a 7 iron? Thanks
I never use the lie portion of the chart only the length. Modern 7 irons are around 61.5 lie angle.
@@EFGMC Thank you very much
If after measuring my clubs if I find that some are to long. What do I do to fix it? I have a tuff time with my drivers and I think they may be to long. Do I have to get new clubs or can they be modified?
They can be cut down. Might need to add some weight back to the heads for correct balance.
With these two measurements how this enable the club build?
This gives you the iron length which we then would build or spec out the entire set around. The length will impact weight, swing weight, lie angle etc so we want to know the length pretty early on so we can find the appropriate shafts and heads for the build.
I’m 6’10” with a 42.5-43” wrist to floor. Since my measurements are off the chart, how could I calculate mine?
Just look at the progression of lengths and extend it out to your measurement.
Swing weight will be off the charts too!
I greatly appreciate the content on your channel.. I was hoping you could help me with a question? I am in the market for some new clubs and I am considering getting clubs made for my size. 6ft6in tall with 41.5 wtf measurement but this seems to be off the chart or I am not reading it correctly.. Could you help me with that?
Send me an email with your specs and what you were thinking about.
adam@elitefitgolf.com
Y cuál sería la medida recomendada para el palo , si tengo ya mi medida corporal?? Eso es lo importante.. no lo dijo 😩
measuring the club 1:13
measuring clubs for your height 3:46
That looks like only for the 7i. Is there a chart for driver?
I usually correlate a 37 inch 7i with a 45 to 45 1/4 inch driver. Shorter can be shorter on the driver, never recommend anyone go over 45 1/2 on a driver regardless of height.
Hi, can i use a 3W shaft for a driver? Would there be a big difference if i extend it to a stock driver length?
I don't recommend extending a shaft more than an 1 1/2 so you should be fine. If you are extending more than that, I prefer new shaft.
But now how do you buy your clubs to your length? For me, I need 38 inch 7 iron but it doesn’t say what the others are supposed to be and when I try to Google clubs where the 7 iron is 38 inches, it doesn’t seem like a helpful search to get to what I’m looking for.
You are 1 inch over standard. 37 is industry standard for a 7i. You will want to order clubs 1 inch over and that will be correct.
On the Wishon chart what club are those measurements for. How do you interpret the chart say for a 3 iron, and a 6 iron
You don’t. Go to Ping!!
I was just googling this last week and was instructed to measure from top of grip to the middle of the clubface, not to the bottom of hosel as you showed us.
You can do that if you always measure that way. Will just make it difficult to ever match a brand measurement of a 38 inch 5 iron for example.
That is not the standard way to do it. It isn't critical unless your club length is very close to the maximum length allowed under the rules. Meauring the way you describe will overstate the length slightly.
I am 6’4. So obviously standards are too short. With my specific measurements, I need a longer shaft. Do I cut the shaft based on measuring with the club head slipped on from sole towards butt, or just the entire shaft itself from tip towards butt?
Measure with the head on always for final length.
@@EFGMC Thank you so much