The Mauser all the way to the right has had a very interesting life. It started out as a Kar98 under the German Empire. After WWI, it became property of the newly formed Polish Republic, and was reworked to their specifications, being fitted with their pattern of stacking hook and sling attachments, and was designated Karabinek wz.98 PWU. It was subsequently scrubbed of Polish markings and shipped off to Spain in support of the Republican forces fighting in the Spanish Civil War. After the war and after the close of WWII, in which Spain was officially neutral, it was sold as surplus and imported into the US by Sam Cummings of Interarms.
I have a k 98k Russian capsure . (That’s what I was told) I paid $300 about 10 years ago, it’s a fun shooter. That’s my collection and I’m happy to have it.
I got a 24/47 a month ago (500$) still in cosmoline. Got her cleaned up and found out she’s a great shooter. Yeah, I know it’s not a k98, or even a G98, but I say she’s a good start to a growing collection. 😊
In Italy now you can find an all matching numbers k98 for more than 2000 euros. I paid my “42” 1938 german k98 not all matching numbers (same number for bolt, stock, barrel and receiver not for the screws, sight and the others small things) 700 euros this year and i think i made a good deal. The yugo and the turkish here are worth about 500. The Gewehr 98 is worth less than the k98 but they are less and normally the price is about 800/900 for those who passed to Türkiye like mine and more than 1000 for the original germans. In any case those with Lange sight are more desired. Sorry for my bad English. I see your videos from Milan, north of Italy 🇮🇹
I've done a ton of research in 5 years now of collecting 8mm mausers. I stuck to 8mm because the ammo is available and other ammo (now and from a few years ago) like 7.65x53 Argentine or 7mm was harder to find (again at least for me). I have mostly 8mm guns. I've gotten to the point where I can look at a gun, not the tag, and tell ya what it is. A feat I'm proud of. I like that you make these videos. I'm gonna save these and if/when I bump into people looking for help I can show them your vids to sort of give them a starting point. Great stuff👍👍 wish I found this years ago too.
FYI I believe that the first rifle you picked up, referred to as the WWI German Kar.98 "Stormtrooper Gun", is actually a Spanish Civil War scrubbed Polish Karabinek Wz 1898, a CLOSE facsimile of the Kar.98a/AZ, but with notable differences. What really sticks out is the sling bar in the buttstock, the under-side sling loops, square stacking hook, and the scrubbed receiver. Around the time of the SCW, Poland was in full production of the Wz.29 and offloaded a bunch of the Karabinek Wz 1898's to Spain, and a majority of the receivers were scrubbed. I have a video on my channel where I go through the differences between the two rifles.
Have many mausers, k98k's,m24/47, m48 yugoslavian, but my favorite is the spanish m43 mauser. Great tack shooter, accurate as hell, but a lot of recoil.
I once had a guy at Nagel's Guns in San Antonio try to sell me a Mosin Nagant, claiming it was a K98K. I asked him why the bolt handle was straight and his response was, "That's just a variation." At the time a Mosin Nagant was worth $99 and a K98K was worth $400-$800. The seller was going to cut me a rock-bottom deal for only $400!
Please go over in depth of details regarding different variations of rifles, years, stamp mark meanings, which amuses have interchangeable parts, and such nuances. And which ones can be shot with high accuracy. Thank you.
I cringed when I paid $150 for a Mosin six years ago, I paid $700 for a 1903 four years ago and I thought it was ridiculous, and I just purchased a M24/47 for the outrageous amount of $400. Prices are only going up so get what you can while they are available.
@@psp1921tsmg south of Atlanta. The Turk '93 was an improved/updated model. Almost a '93+. It also had much better metalurgy and treatment done, than the Spanish model, from Oviedo. Most were modified to use 8mm like the rest, in the mid-wars period. I favor the straight bolt.
I have a few Mausers in .8mm a nice real 98K action like butter.... Must say for someone getting into a good shooter a M-48a Yugo might be a good option.... I've bought my Tools years ago when the Milsurp market was fun but during the Trump years picked up a real M48a Yugo still in their cosmoline that is basically a new rifle.... Don't think it was even fired maybe lil bit but it's a tack driver for under 300. beans.... Just don't like Mauser Sights.... be well.
My friend is selling a German K98k from 1941 for $850. I have verified the serial numbers, its numbers matching, and it has the swastika stamps. It is in good condition, very few dings and scratches, very little rust, the barrel is original, so its shot. I know nothing about Mauser rifles, but I thought I'd ask what you thought. Should I buy it?
@@psp1921tsmg Okay. After more questions, he did say that it was a Russian capture, so he's not sure if the stock is original. Although the stock is stamped with the matching serial number and swastikas. Also, the bolt does not match. Still a good buy? Sorry, I'm just ignorant when it comes to German rifles.
I will never paid $850 for a K-98 k. I am not that desperate to own a rifle built by slave labor. The yugo Mauser M-48 is relatively the same thing and with quality.
@@marckcarbonelloifveteran410 the Kar98k has also a very very good quality, only the late war guns are not as good, but only the stocks so the system it self is still the same and good. Most of the guns where not made by slave labor. I don't even know what your problem is, if you don't want to own a original you don't need to but your comment is just unnecessary...
I have no exact idea on identifying Mitchell’s mausers. I have seen maybe 15. All the ones I saw had artificially clean stocks. I know they were known for adding markings but that is way beyond my knowledge base
I’m no expert but there are a couple of ways they can be identified: The biggest dead giveaway (if it doesn’t come in the Mitchell’s box with original paperwork, of course) , I believe Mitchell’s generally imported the guns they refinished, so there will be an import mark that will list MMC or Mitchell’s (or some variation) as the importer. Short of that, suspiciously pristine condition might be an indicator... but more precisely, many/most Mitchell’s k98k’s are actually Russian captured K98k’s that Mitchell’s tried to restore to look original... only they got a lot wrong. Like typical Russian capture guns (since they’re refurbs), some parts may be incorrect for the year (e.g. mid-war stocks on pre-war actions or vice-versa), they will often retain the “x” receiver marking consistent with Russian capture. Basically, if it’s configured like a Russian refurb but attempted to finish like a German original, good sign it’s a Mitchell’s. Note I said attempted to finish like original, some of the things they got completely wrong... for example a high-polished bolt in the white is incorrect for either the original or captures but is found on Mitchell’s guns.
After my divorce, i cant afford anything anymore. Ive only managed to piece together a gewehr 1888 /05, and a gewehr 1888 05/35. I know about the lousy reputation, but, if it has the czech replacement barrel and bolt, theyre safe. Same with the chileno 1895s in 7.62, theyve a bad reputation, but in almost 50 years of ownership and using various ammo like commercial. 308, ive never had any issues. Most of those old bolt guns are safe, and the danger talk is just tales of isolated incidents repeated verbally til they seem more common than they are. Its like the junk reputation the mosins have, its all bullshit. Often, people talk for the sake of talking
You mention "sanitized," a few times, but are you just talking about the defacing of certain German marks on the gun, or does it mean something else? Also, is there any way to tell the nature of a Mauser from the color of it's stock? The "sanitized" rifle looks a really beautiful red wood, while some of the other rifles look a little toned down darker color.
Sanitized means all ww2 German markings removed. Stocks were routinely switched during yugo rebuilds. So stocks do not really tell you anything other than when the stock was made
Have a chance to buy a Steyr K98 8mm made under the short term contract 660. Numbered parts all match, bore in excellent condition. Your thoughts on quality and is this a true German ww2 rifle?
@@sta729 you’re above my knowledge level I don’t have my Mauser book as reference anymore so best thing I can advise you to ask somebody who is a true or collector or by the book I always operate under the date code or the date on the receiver or be 38 40 41 etc I don’t know anything about subcontractors
Hopefully you guys can help me out… trying to decide between a BRNO made Turkish contract 98/22 (beautifully refurbished stock and Arabic numeral sights) for $500. VS a VZ24 with original wood and Czech lion crest made in 36’ (has bayonet and scabbard included) for $799
Looking to sell my Mauser GI bring back guy at gun store told me it was very pricey no Woodstock no bayonet at top removed but all other matching numbers
This guy is great advice but sorry don’t listen to his prices. He always gives absolute top dollar which to each their own, but it doesn’t surprise me. No yugo capture is 900 unless it’s the most pristine one in the country
The prices in today’s blue book for the Mauser 98K are the following: Good quality $600 Very good quality $850 Excellent conditions $ 1500 which means immaculate. Served in WW2 with proper certificate if it was a GI brought home, matching markings, original stock, original dye, unvarnished with proper metal original blueing. Only a few are found in this manner in America from collectors standpoint and people are still paying over $2000-$3000 for rifles that don’t match this criteria.
Ok when you find them for that price let me know. A Russian capture is 800 plus depending on markings on gunbroker. Blue book is completely out of touch with prices.
@@psp1921tsmg Honestly, when people don’t buy them the seller will low the prices. They sellers are getting used to people emptying their credit card buying them. This is te reason why prices keep going up in many cases for rifles that are far from being collectibles or war relics.
@@marckcarbonelloifveteran410 if people are paying the price then that’s what stuff sells for. Hence blue book is completely out of touch but if that’s what you want to believe you keep looking for that $600 98k
@@psp1921tsmg The market value is determined by the shopper not the seller. The seller may post any price but if the buyers don’t buy them they are forced to low their prices.
You are right. If you want one to shoot and have fun buy a cheap one with a good barrel and if you later want a really good one then buy it but have it as a collectable without using it or atleast not much. For just having fun a matching Kar98k is just to valuable historicly in my opinion and most first timers don't want to spend the money on such a rifle. For me a all matching one in prestine condition is worth less, because for me a rifle has more value if it was really used in war, yeah it is not as collectable but it has something to tell so to say.
The Mauser all the way to the right has had a very interesting life. It started out as a Kar98 under the German Empire. After WWI, it became property of the newly formed Polish Republic, and was reworked to their specifications, being fitted with their pattern of stacking hook and sling attachments, and was designated Karabinek wz.98 PWU. It was subsequently scrubbed of Polish markings and shipped off to Spain in support of the Republican forces fighting in the Spanish Civil War. After the war and after the close of WWII, in which Spain was officially neutral, it was sold as surplus and imported into the US by Sam Cummings of Interarms.
I have a k 98k Russian capsure . (That’s what I was told) I paid $300 about 10 years ago, it’s a fun shooter. That’s my collection and I’m happy to have it.
It’s worth way more than what you paid for it
Is it waffen marked too?
I got a 24/47 a month ago (500$) still in cosmoline. Got her cleaned up and found out she’s a great shooter. Yeah, I know it’s not a k98, or even a G98, but I say she’s a good start to a growing collection. 😊
I am very happy with my Turkish and Spanish Mauser.
In Italy now you can find an all matching numbers k98 for more than 2000 euros. I paid my “42” 1938 german k98 not all matching numbers (same number for bolt, stock, barrel and receiver not for the screws, sight and the others small things) 700 euros this year and i think i made a good deal. The yugo and the turkish here are worth about 500. The Gewehr 98 is worth less than the k98 but they are less and normally the price is about 800/900 for those who passed to Türkiye like mine and more than 1000 for the original germans. In any case those with Lange sight are more desired. Sorry for my bad English. I see your videos from Milan, north of Italy 🇮🇹
Thanks for watching.
I've done a ton of research in 5 years now of collecting 8mm mausers. I stuck to 8mm because the ammo is available and other ammo (now and from a few years ago) like 7.65x53 Argentine or 7mm was harder to find (again at least for me). I have mostly 8mm guns. I've gotten to the point where I can look at a gun, not the tag, and tell ya what it is. A feat I'm proud of. I like that you make these videos. I'm gonna save these and if/when I bump into people looking for help I can show them your vids to sort of give them a starting point.
Great stuff👍👍 wish I found this years ago too.
Thank you. They are for new collectors to try and prevent them from being ripped off
FYI I believe that the first rifle you picked up, referred to as the WWI German Kar.98 "Stormtrooper Gun", is actually a Spanish Civil War scrubbed Polish Karabinek Wz 1898, a CLOSE facsimile of the Kar.98a/AZ, but with notable differences. What really sticks out is the sling bar in the buttstock, the under-side sling loops, square stacking hook, and the scrubbed receiver. Around the time of the SCW, Poland was in full production of the Wz.29 and offloaded a bunch of the Karabinek Wz 1898's to Spain, and a majority of the receivers were scrubbed. I have a video on my channel where I go through the differences between the two rifles.
Yes in another video another commenter sent me details and I read the comment in the video.
Thanks for the information
Have many mausers, k98k's,m24/47, m48 yugoslavian, but my favorite is the spanish m43 mauser. Great tack shooter, accurate as hell, but a lot of recoil.
Hey Dad thanks for all that info. i just ordered a 1943 Spanish Mauser.. my first 8mm rifle.
Great. I hope you enjoy it
@@psp1921tsmg THANKS
I once had a guy at Nagel's Guns in San Antonio try to sell me a Mosin Nagant, claiming it was a K98K. I asked him why the bolt handle was straight and his response was, "That's just a variation."
At the time a Mosin Nagant was worth $99 and a K98K was worth $400-$800. The seller was going to cut me a rock-bottom deal for only $400!
Please go over in depth of details regarding different variations of rifles, years, stamp mark meanings, which amuses have interchangeable parts, and such nuances. And which ones can be shot with high accuracy. Thank you.
Great video wish i saw this earlier. I got a yugo thinking it was a ww2 service rifle 😅
Very exciting thank u.
I cringed when I paid $150 for a Mosin six years ago, I paid $700 for a 1903 four years ago and I thought it was ridiculous, and I just purchased a M24/47 for the outrageous amount of $400. Prices are only going up so get what you can while they are available.
Great video! What is that poster in the background?
Tank identification from Aberdeen proving grounds
Great video!!
my faves in 8mm are the Turk long rifles, '93 & '38, with the FN24/yugo 24/47 being my choices on shorties.
Can’t say I’ve seen a 93 Turkish in person. Where are you located?
@@psp1921tsmg south of Atlanta. The Turk '93 was an improved/updated model. Almost a '93+. It also had much better metalurgy and treatment done, than the Spanish model, from Oviedo. Most were modified to use 8mm like the rest, in the mid-wars period. I favor the straight bolt.
@@charlene2400 yeah south of Atlanta is a little to far to get together for a shoot. Darn
I have a few Mausers in .8mm a nice real 98K action like butter.... Must say for someone getting into a good shooter a M-48a Yugo might be a good option.... I've bought my Tools years ago when the Milsurp market was fun but during the Trump years picked up a real M48a Yugo still in their cosmoline that is basically a new rifle.... Don't think it was even fired maybe lil bit but it's a tack driver for under 300. beans.... Just don't like Mauser Sights.... be well.
Yugoslavian Mauser 24/47 8mm are the best 8mm Mauser and good value
Love my m38.
My friend is selling a German K98k from 1941 for $850. I have verified the serial numbers, its numbers matching, and it has the swastika stamps. It is in good condition, very few dings and scratches, very little rust, the barrel is original, so its shot.
I know nothing about Mauser rifles, but I thought I'd ask what you thought. Should I buy it?
Yes
@@psp1921tsmg Okay. After more questions, he did say that it was a Russian capture, so he's not sure if the stock is original. Although the stock is stamped with the matching serial number and swastikas. Also, the bolt does not match. Still a good buy? Sorry, I'm just ignorant when it comes to German rifles.
@@worldwar2historyandgear970 Yeah still a fair price not great but fair
I will never paid $850 for a K-98 k. I am not that desperate to own a rifle built by slave labor. The yugo Mauser M-48 is relatively the same thing and with quality.
@@marckcarbonelloifveteran410 the Kar98k has also a very very good quality, only the late war guns are not as good, but only the stocks so the system it self is still the same and good. Most of the guns where not made by slave labor. I don't even know what your problem is, if you don't want to own a original you don't need to but your comment is just
unnecessary...
I would like to know how you can tell if it’s a Mitchell’s Mauser or preferably not.
I have no exact idea on identifying Mitchell’s mausers. I have seen maybe 15. All the ones I saw had artificially clean stocks. I know they were known for adding markings but that is way beyond my knowledge base
I’m no expert but there are a couple of ways they can be identified: The biggest dead giveaway (if it doesn’t come in the Mitchell’s box with original paperwork, of course) , I believe Mitchell’s generally imported the guns they refinished, so there will be an import mark that will list MMC or Mitchell’s (or some variation) as the importer. Short of that, suspiciously pristine condition might be an indicator... but more precisely, many/most Mitchell’s k98k’s are actually Russian captured K98k’s that Mitchell’s tried to restore to look original... only they got a lot wrong. Like typical Russian capture guns (since they’re refurbs), some parts may be incorrect for the year (e.g. mid-war stocks on pre-war actions or vice-versa), they will often retain the “x” receiver marking consistent with Russian capture. Basically, if it’s configured like a Russian refurb but attempted to finish like a German original, good sign it’s a Mitchell’s. Note I said attempted to finish like original, some of the things they got completely wrong... for example a high-polished bolt in the white is incorrect for either the original or captures but is found on Mitchell’s guns.
Like hobofactory said: Look for the polished, unblued bolt. (There's more nuance; but that's the best place to start.)
After my divorce, i cant afford anything anymore. Ive only managed to piece together a gewehr 1888 /05, and a gewehr 1888 05/35. I know about the lousy reputation, but, if it has the czech replacement barrel and bolt, theyre safe. Same with the chileno 1895s in 7.62, theyve a bad reputation, but in almost 50 years of ownership and using various ammo like commercial. 308, ive never had any issues. Most of those old bolt guns are safe, and the danger talk is just tales of isolated incidents repeated verbally til they seem more common than they are. Its like the junk reputation the mosins have, its all bullshit. Often, people talk for the sake of talking
You mention "sanitized," a few times, but are you just talking about the defacing of certain German marks on the gun, or does it mean something else? Also, is there any way to tell the nature of a Mauser from the color of it's stock? The "sanitized" rifle looks a really beautiful red wood, while some of the other rifles look a little toned down darker color.
Sanitized means all ww2 German markings removed. Stocks were routinely switched during yugo rebuilds. So stocks do not really tell you anything other than when the stock was made
Have a chance to buy a Steyr K98 8mm made under the short term contract 660. Numbered parts all match, bore in excellent condition. Your thoughts on quality and is this a true German ww2 rifle?
What is the receiver date
@@psp1921tsmg 1940 dated
shank subcontractor marked 109 40 BO
@@sta729 you’re above my knowledge level I don’t have my Mauser book as reference anymore so best thing I can advise you to ask somebody who is a true or collector or by the book I always operate under the date code or the date on the receiver or be 38 40 41 etc I don’t know anything about subcontractors
@@psp1921tsmg Thank you for your time
Hopefully you guys can help me out… trying to decide between a BRNO made Turkish contract 98/22 (beautifully refurbished stock and Arabic numeral sights) for $500. VS a VZ24 with original wood and Czech lion crest made in 36’ (has bayonet and scabbard included) for $799
I like the 98/22 but I’d go with the best bore
@@psp1921tsmg thanks! So say bores are in equal condition, lean towards the 98/22!
@@user-ps6jv3ee1s yes
Simply it is a fact K-98 K are overpriced, especially when there were 14 millions manufactured in WW2.
Everything is overpriced when American dollar isn’t worth anything but if the 14 million produced how many survive today
Looking to sell my Mauser GI bring back guy at gun store told me it was very pricey no Woodstock no bayonet at top removed but all other matching numbers
Do you have capture paperwork? And missing parts really hurts the value
Is 900 ok for a Yugo capture k98k with dirty birds intact on small parts?
That’s about right if the bore is nice
This guy is great advice but sorry don’t listen to his prices. He always gives absolute top dollar which to each their own, but it doesn’t surprise me. No yugo capture is 900 unless it’s the most pristine one in the country
The prices in today’s blue book for the Mauser 98K are the following:
Good quality $600
Very good quality $850
Excellent conditions $ 1500 which means immaculate. Served in WW2 with proper certificate if it was a GI brought home, matching markings, original stock, original dye, unvarnished with proper metal original blueing. Only a few are found in this manner in America from collectors standpoint and people are still paying over $2000-$3000 for rifles that don’t match this criteria.
Ok when you find them for that price let me know. A Russian capture is 800 plus depending on markings on gunbroker.
Blue book is completely out of touch with prices.
@@psp1921tsmg Honestly, when people don’t buy them the seller will low the prices. They sellers are getting used to people emptying their credit card buying them. This is te reason why prices keep going up in many cases for rifles that are far from being collectibles or war relics.
@@psp1921tsmg Nope, people are out of touch with prices for paying ridiculous prices.
@@marckcarbonelloifveteran410 if people are paying the price then that’s what stuff sells for. Hence blue book is completely out of touch but if that’s what you want to believe you keep looking for that $600 98k
@@psp1921tsmg The market value is determined by the shopper not the seller. The seller may post any price but if the buyers don’t buy them they are forced to low their prices.
Do you purchase Mausers from private owners?
Depends on what they are
@@psp1921tsmg Mauser | 98k | 8mm
@@psp1921tsmg Also a merliner 55 12 gauge
Where are you located?
@@psp1921tsmg I am located in Michigan, how about you?
gewehr98 is better
Just recut the crown
Just get a Russian Capture no first timer is going to be buying an all matching K98
You are right. If you want one to shoot and have fun buy a cheap one with a good barrel and if you later want a really good one then buy it but have it as a collectable without using it or atleast not much. For just having fun a matching Kar98k is just to valuable historicly in my opinion and most first timers don't want to spend the money on such a rifle. For me a all matching one in prestine condition is worth less, because for me a rifle has more value if it was really used in war, yeah it is not as collectable but it has something to tell so to say.