I´ve been surfing for 45 years. I give this advice an double A+! I wish the first rule of wait your turn was universal. I've seen so many idiots just go too deep to ever make it so they can say "My wave"
Honestly, I don't think it's a "follow the rules thing" more of a "I'm a competitive American that has to prove himself and his manliness or feminineness". It happens in things other than surfing. This problem you are describing rarely occurs in Europe or anywhere else outside of America.
I fucking hate so much when long boarders paddle all the way out the horizon then they paddle for every wave. So annoying, and then once they've had like 10 waves they act like its their life when you take one.
+van wray he means hates it when longboarders paddle for his wave that he is already on and when you drop in on them they hate it and act as if its their like on the line.
I enjoy surfing and the ocean too much to care about being so impatient. I stay out of the way, surf on my own and dont even take the chance of dealing with all of the b.s. To me it ruins the experience to even have to think about it. I always find my own break. Unfortunatley I know some places are too crowded to do that.
personally I find if you growl at other surfers in the line-up you show you're the alpha surfer and by right can take all the waves you want until someone growls more ferociously at you and you become the bitch. Another method called the "out kook" method is where you bring a bus full of kooks and unleash them on the line up, wait 20 mins until the surfers already there snap and leave or get charged for assault then round up your kooks and go enjoy a peaceful session by yourself. Happy surfing folks
Republicanistan Ah another disgruntled "surfer", (yes yes I use the term extremely loosely) who was outfoxed by the techniques mentioned above. There there sir, on the bright side you now have more time to call strangers kooks online and that after all is what many scholars claim to be the meaning of life.
great video for begginers, good tips like this are so needed. In latin america anybody can call themselves a surf instructor and they do a terrible job, putting people at risk.
I agree with the video, there has obviously been so many accidents that did not need to happen. Take it easy, It's all about waves and fun. Its just a bummer there are so many surfers these days. I also see the side of guys spending big bucks and wanting your quota of barrels, it can be frustrating. You need a lot of experience to surf here safely. Wish i was back in the 80's still.
"locals have the say" is the stupidest thing happening to surfing...it is similar to racism and i'm glad thhere are still places where people share smiles, hoots and respect to their neighbour in the lineup. I always went to locals presenting myself, asking stories about the place and rarely got hassled... Localism is a plague
PipeLineGt, the reason that you get to make the rules at your house is that you pay for it and maintain it. Most locals don't do community service, they just live there. They pay taxes, sure, but so do the locals and lots are federal. Also, even within the bounds of your argument is a little thing called hospitality.
Saying someone can't surf a spot because they're not from there is one thing. That's localism in the most pejorative sense. But a stranger or beginner paddling out and immediately sitting at the top of the peak needs to be checked. And that's done by the folks who surf that break regularly. The problem with surf culture now adays is NOT that there are more kooks. (And there are more kooks. Surfing now resembles tennis more than what it used to be.) The problem is that the kooks don't know they're kooks. At most spots the social hierarchy has been washed out by throngs of weekend warriors. They surf waves they shouldn't be surfing. They blow more waves than they make. They dominate priority with the size of their boards. They're only looking down the line when paddling for waves. They drop in on others. The get in the way of competent surfers. And they're dangerous. Still, they don't recognize their relative lack of ability and don't adjust where they surf and how they approach the lineup. They have their own set of rules and make surfing less fun and more dangerous for others all with a smile on their face. And there's no video or Mentawai guide saying, "This is how it works here." So then what? Should the surfers who have devoted their lives to a spot and know the social norms established after decades of surfing just shut their mouths because someone's going to get their feelings hurt? You call jerks wanting to kick someone's ass "locialism." But you're just seeing what you want to see. Localism is a lot more than that.
There are guys who only surf one spot and that is their home. You need to have respect for those people. This doesnt mean you can't catch waves but just be respectful. Don't drop in, don't snake
As a 20+ year veteran of surfing in socal waters, I have to say, this is a great concept for people on a guided surf trip. I could totally respect letting everyone have a chance and talking turns. Not sure If this happens anywhere else......and the Mentawis are too far when you have kids and a job...but I would love to see this place someday. On my bucket list.
I am an old surfer. I’ve done everything. Since 1959. I surfed with the best, I shaped in Australia, and surfed all over. And we brought the short board into the world. George Greenough, Bob McTavish, Nat Young. Nothing changes. Drop in? You become the problem. Don’t drop in. Simple. Learn the rules.
I have been surfing a couple years now and seems like the biggest downer about surfing...is other surfers. This is why I LOVE surfing cold water in the Northwest. I am usually the only one out there and never have to deal with all this nonsense you guys area talking about. I don't think I would want to surf anywhere where there are a lot of surfers. Most surfers sound really selfish know it alls and get butthurt super easily. Shame.
+Kizmit same for holland, at my home spot (Zandvoort aan Zee for the dutchies here) there are usually 4 or 5 people in the lineup at a time, and at work times you are alone XD
ohhDarkstar yupp, ikr, but this week we have some good swell from a storm above Scotland, so this week we have a nice average from hip to overhead (tomorrow 2.6m wave hight, and Saturday we finally have sp,e groundswell with shoulder hight waves :D)
ohhDarkstar waar woon je dan? ik moet eerst half uur bus, half uur trein en dan weer een uur bus xD das pittig lastig met een 6.2tje en een grote tas vol neopreen :P heb het 1 keer met mn 9.4 geprobeerd maar dat was eens maar nooit meer
Beautiful. A first rate tutorial on surfing etiquette and the importance of civility in civilization, no matter how far from it you think you are. Great post and I thank you for it.
Great video! Not just for surfing the mentawais, which I've never been to, but a great video for general surfing etiquette as well as great information in there for surfing Reef breaks!!!
Robdog want to talk about respect, surf etiquette and the like. In the late 60' s Corky Carrol was out just north of Crystal pier PB IN SAN DIEGO. Everyone paddled in...... so we could watch.
In terms of transactional analysis, the subject and comments here make a fascinating psychological study. We might say that wavepark is relating in the parent ego state, whereas nomoreluke is responding from the child ego state, and along the way, others are interjecting from all three ego states, parent, adult and child. I'm no psychologist, but I couldn't help making this insightful observation. Thank you Eric Berne ... carry on as you were chaps :)
I started surfing in the 60s in San Diego then moved to Santa Cruz and the number one rule I always followed is NEVER drop in on another surfer. And when paddling out, avoid the break and use the channel to stay out of the way of the ride. In the 80s and 90s rudeness in California became the rule, so I moved away.
I live in florida and we surfers here get pretty hungry when its been flat for up to 2-3 weeks, yet as desperate as we are, the closest to the peak-priority rule still seems to work. It's also because most breaks i surf are scattered beach peaks, but there is one really odd rock break called RC's in central florida. The spot has 3-4 peaks with perfect lefts and shouldering close out rights. Everybody tries to get that perfect left hander, and there is the occasional drop in, but that is only because people don't understand the priority rule. But no body yells at anyone else, no fights break out, you may get the occasional angry hoot and holler but thats it. I'm not saying your technique does not work, because it seems like it does, but people come to my break to surf good waves and to perform their fullest on each wave. This isn't a wave where u let somebody shoulder hop because they have been waiting the longest, it is whoever is lucky enough to get the opportunity and is working the hardest, gets their waves. You can watch guys get 8 set waves in an hour and sure you will be annoyed, but they gambled the same amount as you did and they happened to be in the deepest zone. PLUS if somebody is sectioned out or falls on the drop, there is definitely going to be other guys trying to get the scraps of the wave. Also this is a wave where you and your buddies can happily share a ride when it gets to the chest high+ mark. I happened to share one of the most memorable waves ever with one of my good friends there. In the end of the day, it doesn't matter how your lineup is dictated, as long as it works and people enjoy themselves is all that matters. And if you have been in the water for an hour and have not had the chance to get into a wave, you are probably not at the right spot. Don't let angry keyboard warriors tell you what is right and wrong, as long as it works and people walk out with smiles, because I know I sure do! Thanks for the informational video!
Thanks for the support @Cameron David. Everybody is entitled to their own opinion and most trolls are entertaining if nothing else. It is different everywhere, that's why we made this video just for Mentawai. Although by the comments of a lot of viewers, they would like this etiquette to exist elsewhere, but it's not really feasible in many places. Thanks for chiming in, and best of luck getting those smoking lefts off the peak at RC's.
I surf up in that area.. paradise, hangers, the streets ... im still new (surfing consistently for almost 2 years) so not that great but i know to stay out of the way ... but sometimes when im doing that the more advanced surfers will actually call me out and tell me they dont mind sharing a wave. Sharing is caring they say. all places are different but melbourne and cocoa have some of the nicest people. we are all out there for the same thing. to have fun... we all share and love for the ocean and the feeling of surfing no matter how new you are or how long youve been surfing... as for the dick heads maybe they need to remember how it was when they started. you dont just grab a surfboard and become immediately amazing on it. why not help eachother out a little more.
I made a version with Portuguese subtitles with help from our Brazilian guests. It has been watched 2,000 times. Spread the word so we can help everybody equally.
that's awesome you did this I lived on Kauai for a while and I was horrified by how many tourists get injured and killed because there is just no one to tell them how dangerous the ocean is or even walking on rocks at the edge of the ocean. Little things like this are important, no matter your skill level, if you're encountering something new.
Hey thanks J. We're making a few videos about "surfing over reefs" for that exact reason. A lot of good surfers just assume some things, but actually there are a lot of decent surfers out there who know just enough to get themselves into trouble when they surf in big waves over shallow reefs. Stoked on the support, Cheers!
wavepark And so kids who are learning to surf, while paddling out should be able to outmaneuver a surfer barreling down the line so they can "get out of the way?" You tell me who is more maneuverable, a surfer standing with some speed, or someone on their belly. People need to accept that sometimes shit just happens, and quit being such little bitches about it. Fuck man, surfing is supposed to be fun, but it has gotten to be a bunch of dickheads. Like a bunch of fucking addicts trying to get their fix, without any compassion or regard for the imperfection of their fellow man.
What do you mean bear hug your board? When exactly would you do that? When you are about to take a wave on the head? Don't dive, just hug your board and hope for the best? Or turn and face land, hug, and hope for the best?
toreropalido and Joseph. What I mean is as you are going down on your duck dive to hold the board very tight to your chest (bear hug). What happens sometimes is the wave is more powerful than the surfer is expecting, and turbulence under water can make the board hit the surfers head. The less space between the board and the surfer underwater, the less distance the board has to move and cause injury.
People who are learning and don't know etiquette , just plain and simply shouldn't be , surfing waves of consequence. Nor should there ever be a Private camp for the rich at an incredible wave. Many wealthy folk on roids have the worst attitude and common sense in the water. Surfing and the ocean are indeed for everyone, however, you must earn your right to surf great surf spots. If you havn't and your still feeling like you want some, you should show nothing but respect and positive vibes to those who have obviously spent more time in it the culture ( not a sport) than you. Ignorance creates dangerous situations and egos create fights and bad vibes. Sorry people but just because you figured out how to make enough money to be at a great surf spot doesn't give you any rights in the water beyond what was just explained. Don't give a shit about us then we don't let you surf in peace and you will likely drown. Go home and make somemoreof your money and swim through that!! Be humble and gracious then you might actually be givin a wave, learn something new and make a new friend or two.
I wish I had known these tips from 1972-1983. I have long since left the scene but these suggestions along with the tone of voice of the narrator should definitely be considered even if not heeded.
Hey man me and my Fiance would love to come to your resort but we struggle to pay even the basic bills every month. Maybe do a sweepstakes or contest to win a weekend trip?!
I wish all surf trips/guides gave this talk before they let their bands of tourists surf a tropical reef pass. Its amazing the stupidity that goes on in the lineup for these people surfing over a reef they've never been on before. Be respectful, have fun, and be safe! Those 3 things will make your trip infinitely more enjoyable!
I started surfing in the early 1960's so please don't preach about who has which wave. Which breaks were you surfing in the 1960's??! It all comes down to having free F U N !
Stupid Snowballers, so common in Byron Bay where I live. Last time this happened to me the dude who snowballed me said" "wow you nearly made that"! Hahahah eggroll Happy surfing Marty Ware (Australian Micro Farmer)
Depends on the country. France and basque country gave the finger to respecting fellow surfers, they are the biggest assholes in the world and will constantly fuck up your line regardless of how long you've been waiting or where you catch the wave. When surfing most beaches in the basque region i just whistle/yell if i'm already on the wave and someone tries to catch it. After that you just pray he has a little bit of dignity.
Hi Evan, 80% of the serious injuries I have seen are from surfboards, thus the section on "fins and noses" in the video. When you fall off or get closed out, the main goal should be to get as far away from your surfboard as you can, so the chances of it hitting you are less. The other 20% of the time, when people hit the reef, it is more often than not on small, shallow days. Overall you can greatly reduce your chances by getting away from your board, and not surfing on small shallow days!
Yes! That's how the concept started. Asking people to not be kooks, but some people need the extra benefit of shared experience. It's what makes us human after all.
This should be mandatory learning Before anyone is allowed to surf; anywhere. So tired of getting a*#holed, paddling in to kick their ass, then paddling back out again. Did it TWICE in Santa Cruz where people there think they own the waves. Now I only surf in bigger conditions now so there are less amateurs out in force. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!!
So you paddled in to "Kick someone's ass" and YOU'RE whining about etiquette?? What a fucking kook. Also, chest high isn't "bigger conditions" you armchair hero!
Hey uakoo, we're not calling people out for making mistakes. Just trying to point out what to avoid to keep everybody safe, 180km by boat from the nearest 3rd world hospital.
Bloody sad Christie, so many empty heads in the lineup:/ Personlly i thought every point in the vid was commonsense that all surfers should know:/ A serious injury when exploring, or surfing anywhere remote is something noone wants, i know, broken neck among other things:/ I would say "THINK" a little guys, but that requires brains and thats something lacking in so many surfers. Most younguns especially dont even think about the possibility of serious harm, , They all think they are immortal, guess again guys:) , that will change as they get older and have been hurt a few times..hopefully:/ As to the "taking turns". In normal non camp situations the inside guy has right of way, BUT, if you are going to patronise a camp, you abide by their rules. Noone is forcing you to go! Camps exist to serve a need, most surfers do not have the time, money or will to explore and find uncrowded perfection, ive done that for more than 35 years and i can tell you guys this, there are still a shitload of perfect waves out there rarely or never surfed, i dont have the time left to check on the many i know will be great that i havent got to yet! Google earth guys:) Ok, i will leave you guys to the camps:) I got better places to go :)
really? thats your response? that's all? i am not trying to impress anyone with my ability to type. sometimes i get passionate about something, and just start typing. if i were an anal, ocd suffering english teacher, i might be stressed out on spellcheck. but, alas, i am none of these things. dont be mad because someone made you realize how silly your comment was. we are all just people. we all have opinons. we are free to express these opinions. letting someone elses jokes about opinions bother you is not beneficial to a happy existance. instead, try joking back. this is a much healthier way to live your life. haha.
Hey, there is a tendency on impersonal communications such as this for people to be disrespectful of each other. I always follow the practice of trying to be as polite in writing as I would be to your face, so when someone calls me an idiot, or stupid, I respond back in kind, but I certainly would not have been ignorant if you hadn't started it. I always felt it was cowardly to cut loose on someone just because you can - basic principles that a reasonable person should follow in order to participate in a decent society.
I spent the first 8 years of my surfing life body boarding in San Diego, Mexico and New Zealand. Then my friend convinced me to stand up, and now I've been doing that for 27 years. So... 35 years now? Man, startin' to feel old!
Kook: is someone who can't see that it is whoever has been waiting longest, has the next wave. Kook: is someone who paddles deep (straight past competent surfer) and is to deep to make wave blowing it for both kook and surfer. Give me room, please! When it is my turn, i don't care where you are, it is my turn. This vid is ok because so many people still don't get it.
I agree, but unfortunately a lot of surfers are greedy pricks who want to get every wave. These days if the surf is half decent most places are crowded, and if you don't share a bit - and give learners a bit of a break - then it's a pretty nasty vibe out there. Surfing should be mainly about relaxing and enjoying the waves, but a lot of guys surf like they are trying to win the "Triple Crown" each time. I try to give those kind of guys some gentle advice, and if that doesn't work then I sit next to them and make sure they don't get another wave. It's pretty hard to catch a wave if someones dragging on your leg rope...............hahhahahah
Hi MrTomL, basically on a normal duckdive at your homebreak, you grab your rail by wrapping your fingers all the way around the rail. Surfing Mentawai, the better way to do it is to keep your hands open on the top of the board as you sink the board under water. When you get to the deepest point in your dive and want to come back up, then you grab the board as normal and come up. If not, you may find yourself less some skin on your fingers when you hit the bottom, because it is shallow.
Hmmm. I like your zen attitude. To be in harmony with the wave, is all important for a beautiful experience. what ever the wave gives you. Minus any distractions. I don't know if zen was the the right word, but it was the first word that popped into my mind. You have thought it out well. Thank You MT. mr. quizical
More people need to see this. I went on a surf trip on the mainland Sumatra with six other guys and on the first day everyone was snaking each other and ruining the vibe. We made a rule from then on that Whoever was at the front of the line was No.1 followed by No.2 and so on. If they claimed the wave as theirs and didn't get it, it was back of the line and it worked well. No was pushing the other too deep and if you had priority you were free to paddle deep/wide ect. This system always works!
My local beaches in Washington and Oregon are pretty much a free for all, especially with the in flux of Kiters and SUP's, not that I have a problem with that, it's just that so many newbies don't know or observe the protocol. When I arrive in Maui I very much appreciate that the folks there are observant of the rules... It makes everything more civilized, and enhances everyone's experience. It's called the aloha spirit... And world of surfing could certainly use some more it, Mahalo!
Great video, I've been guilty of all those offenses and I'm lucky I didn't get hurt. I just spent 4 and a half months in Bali and a lot of people have gotten in over their heads and a lot have gotten hurt and lost their lives. Thanks for for trying to educate folks, don't worry about the haters.
Typically Tommy, you are right. However, when the person who is deepest is also the greedy guy who just got the last 3 set waves, but there are 15 people in the water, then a change is necessary. That's why we say "wait your turn", so it doesn't matter how close you are to the curl. Then everybody has a fair chance to get the same great waves. We're all here for the same reason! Cheers!
Hi Anthony, when I bail, the point is to hit the bottom. At least then you know where it is. That's where the booties come in. Bail the board, go down feet first until you touch the bottom and wait till the wave passes if you can. The only other trick is knowing to keep the leg that has the legrope on it off the bottom if you can, so you don't get a snag!
Surf guiding is a profession which includes: Analyzing your clients ability and choosing waves that challenge (but not kill) them. Getting your guests the best waves of their lives. Picking the best surf spot everytime taking into account wind, tide, swell, crowd, waves already surfed, clients wishes and weather constraints. Ability to rescue somebody off the reef who is unconscious and perform CPR during large swell conditions on somebody in need. Making sure everybody gets a fair crack.
Just returned from the Ments - good advice in this video. We lucked on and got a couple of good swells. It's amazing how aggressive some of the respondents to your video are - I reckon they're much braver behind a keyboard than they'd be at sizey Bankvaults at low tide.
This was a very refreshing video to watch. Mentawais is on my bucket list. I've surfed many places around the world including North Shore Oahu and some real treacherous breaks in Kauai and still feel quite a bit of caution thinking about the Ments. The egos and other peacocks are always going to kook when they feel their manhood is threatened by someone. Surf etiquette isn't about the ego it's about allowing everyone to enjoy the experience. I'm sure there's plenty to go around. Hope 2 C U guys.
cheers for the laugh .... watched it a second time ... pissing my self .. 'just make sure u wait ur turn guys'... ok so everyone is safe and has a super fun time' ok thanks guyyyyssss... LMAOEFT
Cool video,here in algarve rules r simple,respect the locals,be safe and make sure everybody around is safe when u surf,leave our beach clean like it was and chill.
come to my country Maldives for surfing! its got really nice places to surf. Hope you can come and enjoy!.... let me know when you come!... be really happy to show you around!.
Informative video for sure. The whole take your turn thing makes a lot of sense when you are dealing with these kinds of waves. Now all I have to do is save up $2000 and I'll be stoked..
I´ve been surfing for 45 years. I give this advice an double A+! I wish the first rule of wait your turn was universal. I've seen so many idiots just go too deep to ever make it so they can say "My wave"
Honestly though, if everyone followed these rules and didn't surf like it was a competition every time, everything would flow a lot nicer out there.
+Samuel Acosta it does for sure.
Honestly, I don't think it's a "follow the rules thing" more of a "I'm a competitive American that has to prove himself and his manliness or feminineness". It happens in things other than surfing. This problem you are describing rarely occurs in Europe or anywhere else outside of America.
Yeah it never happens in Brazil...
If I can't duck dive without jacking my knuckles on the reef, Maybe another spot is in order.
I fucking hate so much when long boarders paddle all the way out the horizon then they paddle for every wave. So annoying, and then once they've had like 10 waves they act like its their life when you take one.
I hate it to bra
***** ouch
Jay J truth, why do you have to go for every single one??
+van wray he means hates it when longboarders paddle for his wave that he is already on and when you drop in on them they hate it and act as if its their like on the line.
When I was pumping on a line like last week some longboarder came out of know were and just ran me over
I enjoy surfing and the ocean too much to care about being so impatient. I stay out of the way, surf on my own and dont even take the chance of dealing with all of the b.s. To me it ruins the experience to even have to think about it. I always find my own break. Unfortunatley I know some places are too crowded to do that.
personally I find if you growl at other surfers in the line-up you show you're the alpha surfer and by right can take all the waves you want until someone growls more ferociously at you and you become the bitch. Another method called the "out kook" method is where you bring a bus full of kooks and unleash them on the line up, wait 20 mins until the surfers already there snap and leave or get charged for assault then round up your kooks and go enjoy a peaceful session by yourself. Happy surfing folks
+Kevin Vesey hahahaha sooooo true!!!!
+Kevin Vesey stay out of the water kook.
Republicanistan Ah another disgruntled "surfer", (yes yes I use the term extremely loosely) who was outfoxed by the techniques mentioned above. There there sir, on the bright side you now have more time to call strangers kooks online and that after all is what many scholars claim to be the meaning of life.
yearight....got 20 outside....right now....duh.
i think he meant it as ....A WARNING.
great video for begginers, good tips like this are so needed. In latin america anybody can call themselves a surf instructor and they do a terrible job, putting people at risk.
I agree with the video, there has obviously been so many accidents that did not need to happen. Take it easy, It's all about waves and fun. Its just a bummer there are so many surfers these days. I also see the side of guys spending big bucks and wanting your quota of barrels, it can be frustrating. You need a lot of experience to surf here safely. Wish i was back in the 80's still.
Thank You monotone dude with a firm grasp of the blatantly obvious.
+teampullmyfinger you're welcome.
haha
+teampullmyfinger Lol :)
Obvious to us maybe man, not to most:/
The problem with common sense is that it isn't common.
"locals have the say" is the stupidest thing happening to surfing...it is similar to racism and i'm glad thhere are still places where people share smiles, hoots and respect to their neighbour in the lineup. I always went to locals presenting myself, asking stories about the place and rarely got hassled... Localism is a plague
They do and your a idiot if you dont. Its like saying you cant make rules to your house once a guess comes over.
PipeLineGt, the reason that you get to make the rules at your house is that you pay for it and maintain it. Most locals don't do community service, they just live there. They pay taxes, sure, but so do the locals and lots are federal. Also, even within the bounds of your argument is a little thing called hospitality.
Saying someone can't surf a spot because they're not from there is one thing. That's localism in the most pejorative sense. But a stranger or beginner paddling out and immediately sitting at the top of the peak needs to be checked. And that's done by the folks who surf that break regularly.
The problem with surf culture now adays is NOT that there are more kooks. (And there are more kooks. Surfing now resembles tennis more than what it used to be.) The problem is that the kooks don't know they're kooks. At most spots the social hierarchy has been washed out by throngs of weekend warriors. They surf waves they shouldn't be surfing. They blow more waves than they make. They dominate priority with the size of their boards. They're only looking down the line when paddling for waves. They drop in on others. The get in the way of competent surfers. And they're dangerous. Still, they don't recognize their relative lack of ability and don't adjust where they surf and how they approach the lineup. They have their own set of rules and make surfing less fun and more dangerous for others all with a smile on their face. And there's no video or Mentawai guide saying, "This is how it works here."
So then what? Should the surfers who have devoted their lives to a spot and know the social norms established after decades of surfing just shut their mouths because someone's going to get their feelings hurt?
You call jerks wanting to kick someone's ass "locialism." But you're just seeing what you want to see. Localism is a lot more than that.
Mark Wadia man you don't own shit grow up and stop bitching
There are guys who only surf one spot and that is their home. You need to have respect for those people. This doesnt mean you can't catch waves but just be respectful. Don't drop in, don't snake
As a 20+ year veteran of surfing in socal waters, I have to say, this is a great concept for people on a guided surf trip. I could totally respect letting everyone have a chance and talking turns. Not sure If this happens anywhere else......and the Mentawis are too far when you have kids and a job...but I would love to see this place someday. On my bucket list.
I am an old surfer. I’ve done everything. Since 1959. I surfed with the best, I shaped in Australia, and surfed all over. And we brought the short board into the world. George Greenough, Bob McTavish, Nat Young. Nothing changes. Drop in? You become the problem. Don’t drop in. Simple. Learn the rules.
I have been surfing a couple years now and seems like the biggest downer about surfing...is other surfers. This is why I LOVE surfing cold water in the Northwest. I am usually the only one out there and never have to deal with all this nonsense you guys area talking about. I don't think I would want to surf anywhere where there are a lot of surfers. Most surfers sound really selfish know it alls and get butthurt super easily. Shame.
+Kizmit same for holland, at my home spot (Zandvoort aan Zee for the dutchies here) there are usually 4 or 5 people in the lineup at a time, and at work times you are alone XD
+Jasper van Loo p but in holland the waves are really bad,fucking england.
ohhDarkstar yupp, ikr, but this week we have some good swell from a storm above Scotland, so this week we have a nice average from hip to overhead (tomorrow 2.6m wave hight, and Saturday we finally have sp,e groundswell with shoulder hight waves :D)
Jasper van Loo nog altijd kut als je diep in nl woont
ohhDarkstar waar woon je dan? ik moet eerst half uur bus, half uur trein en dan weer een uur bus xD das pittig lastig met een 6.2tje en een grote tas vol neopreen :P heb het 1 keer met mn 9.4 geprobeerd maar dat was eens maar nooit meer
you make surfing sound worse then homework.
Gabe Cohn homework? I guess you really are 14 years ago old.
Beautiful. A first rate tutorial on surfing etiquette and the importance of civility in civilization, no matter how far from it you think you are. Great post and I thank you for it.
Great video! Not just for surfing the mentawais, which I've never been to, but a great video for general surfing etiquette as well as great information in there for surfing Reef breaks!!!
Just like the old days!! what surfing was & should be about. Cheers :)
Robdog want to talk about respect, surf etiquette and the like. In the late 60' s Corky Carrol was out just north of Crystal pier PB IN SAN DIEGO. Everyone paddled in...... so we could watch.
All you need to know about surfing is contained in the movie Point Break.
@Spencer Kochel. Can you please send us a copy? I used to have one on DVD but eventually it got overplayed and scratched. That is a classic movie.
+wavepark you can stream it online in amazon for 3.99 rental or 12.99 to buy.
Sure! you pay for shipping :)
Yeh, if you rob a bank and somebody from school turns up at your break stop robbing banks until they go away again.
And, of course, North Shore.
In terms of transactional analysis, the subject and comments here make a fascinating psychological study.
We might say that wavepark is relating in the parent ego state, whereas nomoreluke is responding from the child ego state, and along the way, others are interjecting from all three ego states, parent, adult and child. I'm no psychologist, but I couldn't help making this insightful observation. Thank you Eric Berne ... carry on as you were chaps :)
Good informational video. People should surf like this everywhere around the world, not just the Mentawai Islands.
I started surfing in the 60s in San Diego then moved to Santa Cruz and the number one rule I always followed is NEVER drop in on another surfer. And when paddling out, avoid the break and use the channel to stay out of the way of the ride.
In the 80s and 90s rudeness in California became the rule, so I moved away.
I live in florida and we surfers here get pretty hungry when its been flat for up to 2-3 weeks, yet as desperate as we are, the closest to the peak-priority rule still seems to work. It's also because most breaks i surf are scattered beach peaks, but there is one really odd rock break called RC's in central florida. The spot has 3-4 peaks with perfect lefts and shouldering close out rights. Everybody tries to get that perfect left hander, and there is the occasional drop in, but that is only because people don't understand the priority rule. But no body yells at anyone else, no fights break out, you may get the occasional angry hoot and holler but thats it. I'm not saying your technique does not work, because it seems like it does, but people come to my break to surf good waves and to perform their fullest on each wave. This isn't a wave where u let somebody shoulder hop because they have been waiting the longest, it is whoever is lucky enough to get the opportunity and is working the hardest, gets their waves. You can watch guys get 8 set waves in an hour and sure you will be annoyed, but they gambled the same amount as you did and they happened to be in the deepest zone. PLUS if somebody is sectioned out or falls on the drop, there is definitely going to be other guys trying to get the scraps of the wave. Also this is a wave where you and your buddies can happily share a ride when it gets to the chest high+ mark. I happened to share one of the most memorable waves ever with one of my good friends there. In the end of the day, it doesn't matter how your lineup is dictated, as long as it works and people enjoy themselves is all that matters. And if you have been in the water for an hour and have not had the chance to get into a wave, you are probably not at the right spot. Don't let angry keyboard warriors tell you what is right and wrong, as long as it works and people walk out with smiles, because I know I sure do! Thanks for the informational video!
Thanks for the support @Cameron David. Everybody is entitled to their own opinion and most trolls are entertaining if nothing else. It is different everywhere, that's why we made this video just for Mentawai. Although by the comments of a lot of viewers, they would like this etiquette to exist elsewhere, but it's not really feasible in many places. Thanks for chiming in, and best of luck getting those smoking lefts off the peak at RC's.
I surf up in that area.. paradise, hangers, the streets ... im still new (surfing consistently for almost 2 years) so not that great but i know to stay out of the way ... but sometimes when im doing that the more advanced surfers will actually call me out and tell me they dont mind sharing a wave. Sharing is caring they say. all places are different but melbourne and cocoa have some of the nicest people. we are all out there for the same thing. to have fun... we all share and love for the ocean and the feeling of surfing no matter how new you are or how long youve been surfing... as for the dick heads maybe they need to remember how it was when they started. you dont just grab a surfboard and become immediately amazing on it. why not help eachother out a little more.
As a retired firefighter/paramedic...appreciate the injury prevention tips....thanks...and great job
You're welcome John.
I made a version with Portuguese subtitles with help from our Brazilian guests. It has been watched 2,000 times. Spread the word so we can help everybody equally.
I am not a surfer, but I would have been under other circumstances, that was very interesting - thanks.
Caver461 ii
if you aren't a surfer...shut the fuck up
Who tf are you man?
fuck off
Caver461 not me i don't know why I am watching this seem s interesting .always like watching surfers and sailing .
na guys a nerd man
Great set of guidelines. I want to surf where etiquette is enforced
fresnofalcon47 have you considered lawn bowls
Lawn bowls? or croquet,lmao!
that's awesome you did this I lived on Kauai for a while and I was horrified by how many tourists get injured and killed because there is just no one to tell them how dangerous the ocean is or even walking on rocks at the edge of the ocean. Little things like this are important, no matter your skill level, if you're encountering something new.
Hey thanks J. We're making a few videos about "surfing over reefs" for that exact reason. A lot of good surfers just assume some things, but actually there are a lot of decent surfers out there who know just enough to get themselves into trouble when they surf in big waves over shallow reefs. Stoked on the support, Cheers!
The day I have to bear hug my board is going to be crazy. Great Video.
the comments about this video are why it needed to be made.... kooks and crowds raise the risk for everyone.
Preach on.
Basically, don't surf here unless you are already awesome at surfing.
+Rich Mill lol ok see who's the jackass when you're being slammed into coral reef
+falcoperegrinus82 actually we get kids who are learning to surf all the time.
wavepark And so kids who are learning to surf, while paddling out should be able to outmaneuver a surfer barreling down the line so they can "get out of the way?" You tell me who is more maneuverable, a surfer standing with some speed, or someone on their belly. People need to accept that sometimes shit just happens, and quit being such little bitches about it. Fuck man, surfing is supposed to be fun, but it has gotten to be a bunch of dickheads. Like a bunch of fucking addicts trying to get their fix, without any compassion or regard for the imperfection of their fellow man.
Richard Put them on the reef, were they belong
true...good points.
Awesome, thank you for the tips and sharing your knowledge.
every spot needs a video like this. thank you for making it, it's clear and concise and truth.
What do you mean bear hug your board? When exactly would you do that? When you are about to take a wave on the head? Don't dive, just hug your board and hope for the best? Or turn and face land, hug, and hope for the best?
I was wondering this as well. But he must mean dive down first, you'd have to. Rolling would be best but then would bounce against the reef?
toreropalido and Joseph. What I mean is as you are going down on your duck dive to hold the board very tight to your chest (bear hug). What happens sometimes is the wave is more powerful than the surfer is expecting, and turbulence under water can make the board hit the surfers head. The less space between the board and the surfer underwater, the less distance the board has to move and cause injury.
wavepark I can attest to this. Cracked my head open at Hazard Canyon, SLO...exactly this way.
Thats why I bodyboard
People who are learning and don't know etiquette , just plain and simply shouldn't be , surfing waves of consequence. Nor should there ever be a Private camp for the rich at an incredible wave. Many wealthy folk on roids have the worst attitude and common sense in the water. Surfing and the ocean are indeed for everyone, however, you must earn your right to surf great surf spots. If you havn't and your still feeling like you want some, you should show nothing but respect and positive vibes to those who have obviously spent more time in it the culture ( not a sport) than you.
Ignorance creates dangerous situations and egos create fights and bad vibes. Sorry people but just because you figured out how to make enough money to be at a great surf spot doesn't give you any rights in the water beyond what was just explained. Don't give a shit about us then we don't let you surf in peace and you will likely drown. Go home and make somemoreof your money and swim through that!!
Be humble and gracious then you might actually be givin a wave, learn something new and make a new friend or two.
I accidentally clicked on this video, and I know how to duckdive and everything, I always go by my self at my own secret spot.
I wish I had known these tips from 1972-1983. I have long since left the scene but these suggestions along with the tone of voice of the narrator should definitely be considered even if not heeded.
I support full contact surfing.
Andy Mills i support your punchable face
Great video, thanks
You're welcome!
Hey man me and my Fiance would love to come to your resort but we struggle to pay even the basic bills every month. Maybe do a sweepstakes or contest to win a weekend trip?!
I wish all surf trips/guides gave this talk before they let their bands of tourists surf a tropical reef pass. Its amazing the stupidity that goes on in the lineup for these people surfing over a reef they've never been on before. Be respectful, have fun, and be safe! Those 3 things will make your trip infinitely more enjoyable!
I agree with you!!! I can sometimes appreciate observing a wave as much as when i ride one.
I started surfing in the early 1960's so please don't preach about who has which wave.
Which breaks were you surfing in the 1960's??! It all comes down to having free F U N !
If you come to mentawai islands, don't get in, this is the only way you'll not break a rule.
Fantastic, I have always been reluctant to surf in renown places. This all makes perfect sense!!! thank you for the insight. bring it to Australia!!
wise words, should be common knowledge of all surfers!
Peace from BALI
+Brown Sugar Thanks for the support!
Stupid Snowballers, so common in Byron Bay where I live. Last time this happened to me the dude who snowballed me said" "wow you nearly made that"!
Hahahah eggroll
Happy surfing
Marty Ware (Australian Micro Farmer)
Thats too far
It's actually who is closer to the peak
In some breaks and competitions in general yes,
but not always
Depends on the country. France and basque country gave the finger to respecting fellow surfers, they are the biggest assholes in the world and will constantly fuck up your line regardless of how long you've been waiting or where you catch the wave.
When surfing most beaches in the basque region i just whistle/yell if i'm already on the wave and someone tries to catch it. After that you just pray he has a little bit of dignity.
Molo mono
if i ever go surf a place with idiots i bust out the 9'6" long-board that will tank the wave lol..
Aside from the fact that France has hundreds of miles of world class beach breaks and countless empty peaks... Why are you surfing crowded spots??
Hi Evan,
80% of the serious injuries I have seen are from surfboards, thus the section on "fins and noses" in the video. When you fall off or get closed out, the main goal should be to get as far away from your surfboard as you can, so the chances of it hitting you are less. The other 20% of the time, when people hit the reef, it is more often than not on small, shallow days. Overall you can greatly reduce your chances by getting away from your board, and not surfing on small shallow days!
Solid video I suggest this to be a standard for all surf spots round the world! And at the dinner table! Paz!
Thanks +gamble jason . We're just trying to keep people safe in the water so everybody can enjoy themselves.
or basically, don't be a kook.
Yes! That's how the concept started. Asking people to not be kooks, but some people need the extra benefit of shared experience. It's what makes us human after all.
a video by kooks, for kooks!
This should be mandatory learning Before anyone is allowed to surf; anywhere. So tired of getting a*#holed, paddling in to kick their ass, then paddling back out again. Did it TWICE in Santa Cruz where people there think they own the waves. Now I only surf in bigger conditions now so there are less amateurs out in force. Thanks for taking the time to make this video!!
Cheers Tyg Rahof, I'm glad you found some value in it, and thanks for the feedback.
So you paddled in to "Kick someone's ass" and YOU'RE whining about etiquette?? What a fucking kook. Also, chest high isn't "bigger conditions" you armchair hero!
That might be the most awesome reply that this video has seen in the last 375,000 views. Well done nomoreluke.
So many fucking rules. Not what surfing is about
Its not rules its etiquette... should everybody just do whatever they want?
aight then dive head first onto reef and drop in on some locals out there. youll have plenty of fun! Shmuck.
Hey uakoo, we're not calling people out for making mistakes. Just trying to point out what to avoid to keep everybody safe, 180km by boat from the nearest 3rd world hospital.
Bloody sad Christie, so many empty heads in the lineup:/ Personlly i thought every point in the vid was commonsense that all surfers should know:/ A serious injury when exploring, or surfing anywhere remote is something noone wants, i know, broken neck among other things:/ I would say "THINK" a little guys, but that requires brains and thats something lacking in so many surfers. Most younguns especially dont even think about the possibility of serious harm, , They all think they are immortal, guess again guys:) , that will change as they get older and have been hurt a few times..hopefully:/ As to the "taking turns". In normal non camp situations the inside guy has right of way, BUT, if you are going to patronise a camp, you abide by their rules. Noone is forcing you to go! Camps exist to serve a need, most surfers do not have the time, money or will to explore and find uncrowded perfection, ive done that for more than 35 years and i can tell you guys this, there are still a shitload of perfect waves out there rarely or never surfed, i dont have the time left to check on the many i know will be great that i havent got to yet! Google earth guys:) Ok, i will leave you guys to the camps:) I got better places to go :)
How many f'en rulez??? jeesh...GO AWAY!
It would appear that these are reasonable practices for considerate people
its only one f'en rul. he just explains it, so that even an idiot can understand. evidently, you fall just short of this eschellon of intelligence...
Get your spelling and punctuation right before you start throwing out insults about other people's mental capabilities.
really? thats your response? that's all? i am not trying to impress anyone with my ability to type. sometimes i get passionate about something, and just start typing. if i were an anal, ocd suffering english teacher, i might be stressed out on spellcheck. but, alas, i am none of these things.
dont be mad because someone made you realize how silly your comment was. we are all just people. we all have opinons. we are free to express these opinions. letting someone elses jokes about opinions bother you is not beneficial to a happy existance. instead, try joking back. this is a much healthier way to live your life. haha.
Hey, there is a tendency on impersonal communications such as this for people to be disrespectful of each other. I always follow the practice of trying to be as polite in writing as I would be to your face, so when someone calls me an idiot, or stupid, I respond back in kind, but I certainly would not have been ignorant if you hadn't started it. I always felt it was cowardly to cut loose on someone just because you can - basic principles that a reasonable person should follow in order to participate in a decent society.
Your enthusiasm is contagious... yaawwww
This shoud be the standard everywhere. Well done
prix
Who r u to control the lineup locals have all the say and they can go on as much waves as they as this is there home not yours
Wat u jus started surfing?
Justin Ledford your full of shit.
theres 9 minutes I'll never get back, monotone drone is brutal.
Feel free to redo it and I'll overdub.
Good video, wise words. Preparation + caution + respect= no problems.
Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.......
Wakeup!!!!!!
Read teampullmyfingers comment below...
Bloody amateur hour more money than skills what a joke waiting for everyone to have their turn. Where did you learn to surf?
I spent the first 8 years of my surfing life body boarding in San Diego, Mexico and New Zealand. Then my friend convinced me to stand up, and now I've been doing that for 27 years. So... 35 years now? Man, startin' to feel old!
tru that.
This was very helpful. Thankyou so much. Harry from the U.K
Cheers +dayvo300 for the support.
Great vid. I have been guilty of not waiting my turn. Thanks for the lesson. We need to hear it more.
Kook: is someone who can't see that it is whoever has been waiting longest, has the next wave.
Kook: is someone who paddles deep (straight past competent surfer) and is to deep to make wave blowing it for both kook and surfer.
Give me room, please! When it is my turn, i don't care where you are, it is my turn.
This vid is ok because so many people still don't get it.
I agree, but unfortunately a lot of surfers are greedy pricks who want to get every wave. These days if the surf is half decent most places are crowded, and if you don't share a bit - and give learners a bit of a break - then it's a pretty nasty vibe out there. Surfing should be mainly about relaxing and enjoying the waves, but a lot of guys surf like they are trying to win the "Triple Crown" each time. I try to give those kind of guys some gentle advice, and if that doesn't work then I sit next to them and make sure they don't get another wave. It's pretty hard to catch a wave if someones dragging on your leg rope...............hahhahahah
Hi MrTomL, basically on a normal duckdive at your homebreak, you grab your rail by wrapping your fingers all the way around the rail. Surfing Mentawai, the better way to do it is to keep your hands open on the top of the board as you sink the board under water. When you get to the deepest point in your dive and want to come back up, then you grab the board as normal and come up. If not, you may find yourself less some skin on your fingers when you hit the bottom, because it is shallow.
The rules work until the beach gets packed and then the craziest get the waves. Great video. Those snowballs piss me off too. Surf safe!
Hmmm. I like your zen attitude. To be in harmony with the wave, is all important for a beautiful experience. what ever the wave gives you. Minus any distractions. I don't know if zen was the the right word, but it was the first word that popped into my mind. You have thought it out well. Thank You MT. mr. quizical
GREAT video! Not just for Mentawai but waves everywhere, particularly reef surfing!
Those are some awesome clean waves!
Hard for me to imagine that kind of surfing disrespect for each other can happen there also.....
More people need to see this. I went on a surf trip on the mainland Sumatra with six other guys and on the first day everyone was snaking each other and ruining the vibe. We made a rule from then on that Whoever was at the front of the line was No.1 followed by No.2 and so on. If they claimed the wave as theirs and didn't get it, it was back of the line and it worked well. No was pushing the other too deep and if you had priority you were free to paddle deep/wide ect. This system always works!
Great tips, thanks! You've answered a lot of my questions, I'm a beginner and these question did come up, specially the etiquette ones.
My local beaches in Washington and Oregon are pretty much a free for all, especially with the in flux of Kiters and SUP's, not that I have a problem with that, it's just that so many newbies don't know or observe the protocol. When I arrive in Maui I very much appreciate that the folks there are observant of the rules... It makes everything more civilized, and enhances everyone's experience. It's called the aloha spirit... And world of surfing could certainly use some more it, Mahalo!
Great video, I've been guilty of all those offenses and I'm lucky I didn't get hurt. I just spent 4 and a half months in Bali and a lot of people have gotten in over their heads and a lot have gotten hurt and lost their lives. Thanks for for trying to educate folks, don't worry about the haters.
i think you are a top bloke.humble,concerned and just full of respect for yourbrothers and of course the waves.ta
Thank you very much for making this informative video. I wish it was like that over here in Cali.
this is a great video. All surfers should apply these fundamentals in their daily surf session.
You can tell from watching this just how important surfing really is. Amen
Typically Tommy, you are right. However, when the person who is deepest is also the greedy guy who just got the last 3 set waves, but there are 15 people in the water, then a change is necessary. That's why we say "wait your turn", so it doesn't matter how close you are to the curl. Then everybody has a fair chance to get the same great waves. We're all here for the same reason! Cheers!
Hi Anthony,
when I bail, the point is to hit the bottom. At least then you know where it is. That's where the booties come in. Bail the board, go down feet first until you touch the bottom and wait till the wave passes if you can. The only other trick is knowing to keep the leg that has the legrope on it off the bottom if you can, so you don't get a snag!
Great post, thanks for the time doing it...all you said applies anywhere in the water, anytime. Cheers
This should be mandatory viewing by anyone who surfs. TY.
finally a surf vid with some wit words.
I am so fed up surfing with guys like say... "rompa stompa" or so.
Definitely a bunch of things worth thinking about... and practicing. No point trying to learn those duck diving techniques on the day you get there!
Surf guiding is a profession which includes: Analyzing your clients ability and choosing waves that challenge (but not kill) them. Getting your guests the best waves of their lives. Picking the best surf spot everytime taking into account wind, tide, swell, crowd, waves already surfed, clients wishes and weather constraints. Ability to rescue somebody off the reef who is unconscious and perform CPR during large swell conditions on somebody in need. Making sure everybody gets a fair crack.
Just returned from the Ments - good advice in this video. We lucked on and got a couple of good swells. It's amazing how aggressive some of the respondents to your video are - I reckon they're much braver behind a keyboard than they'd be at sizey Bankvaults at low tide.
This was a very refreshing video to watch. Mentawais is on my bucket list. I've surfed many places around the world including North Shore Oahu and some real treacherous breaks in Kauai and still feel quite a bit of caution thinking about the Ments. The egos and other peacocks are always going to kook when they feel their manhood is threatened by someone. Surf etiquette isn't about the ego it's about allowing everyone to enjoy the experience. I'm sure there's plenty to go around. Hope 2 C U guys.
cheers for the laugh .... watched it a second time ... pissing my self ..
'just make sure u wait ur turn guys'... ok so everyone is safe and has a super fun time' ok thanks guyyyyssss...
LMAOEFT
Cool video,here in algarve rules r simple,respect the locals,be safe and make sure everybody around is safe when u surf,leave our beach clean like it was and chill.
Great vid, speaks true to respected breaks that hold refuge to good surf communities.
@poopie6205, thanks so much for the support.
come to my country Maldives for surfing! its got really nice places to surf. Hope you can come and enjoy!.... let me know when you come!... be really happy to show you around!.
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
It's a lot to remember for someone just starting,
True, but this is only 1/2 of it. The other 1/2 we share once the guests get here.
Informative video for sure. The whole take your turn thing makes a lot of sense when you are dealing with these kinds of waves. Now all I have to do is save up $2000 and I'll be stoked..
thanks a lot for this man! very useful to me (and multiple other) beginners
Well done bro, brings back memories. It's a shame that a lot of suffers are clueless about etiquette. Excellent vid.
used to be like this at rincon in the 70's and 80's.....not anymore
Good, positive, surf philosophy. We need more of this.
If only everyone would follow these lineup rules! Surfing crowded breaks would be so much more enjoyable.
This is the RULES of surfing PERIOD