Just bought a brand new Orange Five Evo frame and shock. Swapped over all the stuff from my Orange Clockwork to fit onto the new frame. After I assembled the bike I have knocking. Took out my rear wheel, (Hope Fortus Pro 4 hub) put it back into my hardtail frame and it's solid. Made sure the shock bolts were torqued up properly to 14Nm. Warranty claim and even took the built bike to Orange in person. They changed the main pivot axle. I picked the bike up and there was still play as before. The guy over torqued the thru axle and it felt okay as far as I could tell. Got it home and no change as it was quiet and I could check it properly in my garage. Not dissing Orange or anything, they've entertained my claim and have investigated the problem already. They said it could be many things causing this which I have to agree with, can't argue with other possible sources for this knocking. Just after some thoughts or a second opinion I guess? Any idea what to do next? Maybe a small amount of play is acceptable? Maybe it's just poor bearing tolerances? My last resort is maybe change the new bearings for some better quality ones and see if it sorts it? The dilemma is I would rather work it out for myself rather than another warranty claim. The last thing I want is to push for a replacement and it turns out to be something else that's my fault or something I've overlooked as the cause. 😬
Hi, Thanks for watching, It's going to be a matter of elimination. We work on Orange frames all the time, from experience they work well and well made. Is it possible I could take a look at for you free of charge, we work with Orange Bikes, we build all their UK bike wheels.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thank you for the reply and also the kind offer to take a look. Watched all your vids and enjoyed them. Been working on my own bikes for years and prefer it that way to be honest. My first proper full sus and first full bike build. I feel I know every nut, bolt and component. Even did my first fork service and replaced the air spring to increase travel from 130 to the recomended 140mm. All other parts were stripped, cleaned, greased re-fitted/torqued, etc. even though they were fine before. Brand new headset, stem, saddle, grips and bb installed. Foam covers along the whole length of the internal cable and hose downtube routing. The knocking is when I hold the top of the seat tube and gently rock the rear wheel from side to side. Just leaves me with the rear wheel which I didn't do anything to, didn't see any need as it seems solid when fitted back into the hardtail frame. Just can't think of anything else to try except (maybe unnecessarily?) replacing the hub bearings and pivot bearings just to see if it makes a difference?
My advice would be on first bearing change, or if you’re really motivated, take the original good ones out, and pop the seal off using a seal or o ring spade, and inject grease (Phil Woods hydrophobic) in there so it’s full then put the seal back on. Like he said, the bearings don’t rotate much, so no worries you’ll be fine. The full grease pack will keep dirt and water out longer.
Хобби
Enjoyed this.
Thanks for watching Ted, Glad you enjoyed it
You're the man
Hero
Just seen this video Great work, Do you know where I can purchase a new Pin for the internal.
Just bought a brand new Orange Five Evo frame and shock. Swapped over all the stuff from my Orange Clockwork to fit onto the new frame. After I assembled the bike I have knocking. Took out my rear wheel, (Hope Fortus Pro 4 hub) put it back into my hardtail frame and it's solid. Made sure the shock bolts were torqued up properly to 14Nm.
Warranty claim and even took the built bike to Orange in person. They changed the main pivot axle. I picked the bike up and there was still play as before. The guy over torqued the thru axle and it felt okay as far as I could tell. Got it home and no change as it was quiet and I could check it properly in my garage.
Not dissing Orange or anything, they've entertained my claim and have investigated the problem already.
They said it could be many things causing this which I have to agree with, can't argue with other possible sources for this knocking.
Just after some thoughts or a second opinion I guess?
Any idea what to do next? Maybe a small amount of play is acceptable? Maybe it's just poor bearing tolerances? My last resort is maybe change the new bearings for some better quality ones and see if it sorts it?
The dilemma is I would rather work it out for myself rather than another warranty claim. The last thing I want is to push for a replacement and it turns out to be something else that's my fault or something I've overlooked as the cause. 😬
Hi, Thanks for watching, It's going to be a matter of elimination. We work on Orange frames all the time, from experience they work well and well made. Is it possible I could take a look at for you free of charge, we work with Orange Bikes, we build all their UK bike wheels.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thank you for the reply and also the kind offer to take a look. Watched all your vids and enjoyed them.
Been working on my own bikes for years and prefer it that way to be honest. My first proper full sus and first full bike build. I feel I know every nut, bolt and component. Even did my first fork service and replaced the air spring to increase travel from 130 to the recomended 140mm. All other parts were stripped, cleaned, greased re-fitted/torqued, etc. even though they were fine before. Brand new headset, stem, saddle, grips and bb installed. Foam covers along the whole length of the internal cable and hose downtube routing.
The knocking is when I hold the top of the seat tube and gently rock the rear wheel from side to side. Just leaves me with the rear wheel which I didn't do anything to, didn't see any need as it seems solid when fitted back into the hardtail frame. Just can't think of anything else to try except (maybe unnecessarily?) replacing the hub bearings and pivot bearings just to see if it makes a difference?
Is it normal to see more of the inner washer at one side of the pivot than other? Like it’s slightly offset?
Hi, No it's not, the rear triangle should be evenly spaced between the downtube
May i know the link to that bearing tool? Or something similar i can find
Hi, thanks for watching, you should be able to get them here, www.kineticbikebearings.com/tools.html
My advice would be on first bearing change, or if you’re really motivated, take the original good ones out, and pop the seal off using a seal or o ring spade, and inject grease (Phil Woods hydrophobic) in there so it’s full then put the seal back on. Like he said, the bearings don’t rotate much, so no worries you’ll be fine. The full grease pack will keep dirt and water out longer.
Hi, thanks for watching and your comments
That's actually a great idea
where can i find one of those pivot linkages that you have to hit out i can’t find them anywhere need a new one
Hi, you mean the bearing tool?