My top "do" is to actually use the airbrush! I'm relatively new to this tool and for many years I was put off even buying one as it seemed like a "pro tool" and not for crap amateurs like me. I was eventually gifted a cheap clone (since replaced). After the initial burst of enthusiasm and ruined paint jobs, I started to get some results I actually liked. Then there was the "can I be bothered with all the faff?" period and the brush sat there, in its stand, staring at me. Now I'm at the "can I use the airbrush or bristle brush for this?" stage and starting to default to the airbrush. Every time I learn something new about paint management, accuracy, what is possible etc and with use, I've now got my cleaning routine faster and everything is far less bother. Top "don't" is "Don't give up!"
You have already done it! You made the new 2024 ultra . The larger handle. The settings are basically a stop to rest against, so shaking isn't a poblem. Universal heads and needles to change out as one gets better. You have already done it! Thank you for that. As a fan of your videos, I will definitely let you know when I purchase mine. I've kind of woken up from my Parkinson's surgery a new person . I value your opinion on airbrushes. (This is where I share to much and edit it out)At age 58, I'll get to use one properly for the first time. Trudi Wagner is the lady that runs Board Fox games. I'll do an unboxing of it there. I definitely want to practice with it before I film that . But it will be damn good free advertising. I've basically had Parkinson's my entire adult life. Your new design is amazing! If I ever come across as negative about anything, please realize that it stems from being not much more than a walking around zombie from the time I was thirteen to about 20, so missed out on most social skills.(head wound). I will keep the rest of my texts far shorter. Thank you again.
Warrick, I do have a stiff index finger due to injury on my dominant (left) hand, but hell no, that ain't gonna stop me! It may look weird, but I use my thumb on the trigger, and it works for me.
I’m going to go back to keeping my notebook. I got teased so much for keeping one regarding airbrushing. “Real airbrush artists don’t need notes”” and so many other teasing comments. Thank you for doing these videos. :)
Very inspiring, Warwick. I particularly take a point of the notebook. It's so easy when on a creative splurge to just throw it all in, but unlike computers, there is no "undo" or "history", so keeping tabs is essential if you want to return to it. I do mainly 3D prints, (not miniatures), and all my print failures I throw in a box and use for paint practice, as well as formulating new colours, primers and finishes. Taking notes and labelling parts with a Sharpie is essential.
I'm about to purchase my first airbrush, the new Ultra 2024. I honestly appreciate the human face to H&S, that builds a great amount of trust towards the brand. Having read countless comments and watched many review videos, I'm confident I'm making the right choice. Still looking for the best first compressor… 😅🤔
Ah that's great - thanks so much! Best compressor... keep it very simple. Don't over feature. Personally, I believe that currently the Sparmax Pro compressor that we sell is a great choice - you can find it on our site and in many other places too. Other than that, the cheaper alternatives are also pretty good, if generally at times a little louder and less reliable. The Hobby compressor is also a good choice if you're looking to keep the budget lower!
I can listen to you talk about airbrushes all day. I’m reintroducing myself to them again and have gotten nothing but solid information from you and your team. Definitely my favourite channel on the subject. I really would like my next airbrush to be a Harder & Steenbeck, especially the Evolution Silverline. Aesthetically it looks like it could have been designed by Philippe Starck and I would argue that it’s the sexiest looking airbrush ever made. Absolutely beautiful and I’m sure the craftsmanship is on par with the aesthetics. I have two concerns that I’m hoping you could comment on. The first is that I have an allergy to nickel and I’m heavily gravitating towards the Silverline M. I really want my next brush to have a side feed. Aside from coating it with nail polish varnish or wearing gloves are there any chrome plated or even no plated options available for the M? My second concern is with the trigger response. Multiple reviewers have commented that there is a delayed response. Does this issue only exist with older models and is this why some of the models now come with teflon washers? If not, are there ways to tweak the valve or washers to adjust the response? I feel like this might be something that would frustrate me over time. I think clearing this up would help us apprehensive buyers make up our minds and join the club. Many thanks.
Hey Michael - if you're concerned about the Nickel, then you really should take any of the CRPlus models - the Evolution comes in a CR model - these are triple Chrome plated. With regard to the trigger response - for sure, there are always things which we can improve about our products, but I think that the work which has been done by Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes in the hands of many artists speaks for itself, in terms of the performance ceiling of our airbrushes. However, all I can say at the moment, is that there is a lot of work focussed on improving our products in all sorts of ways at the moment. I hope you join us!
Another informative video. Here's my small list of do's and don'ts so far: Don'ts: Leave paint dry inside the airbrush, remove the needle when there's paint in the airbrush, Keep my hand still while spraying. Do's: Have fun! Keep practising, use appropriate air pressure for the corresponding paint consistency, Keep up the good work!
I airbrush my handturned wooden bowls with Fiber Reactive Dyes, and really feel your recommendation to keep a book nearby to record successes, failures and color recipes is essential. I have one and have looked back on color combinations I really liked, but would never remember them after a while! In my book, I have the colors and blends I am thinking about or have used. The other thing I would recommend is to paint in a steady motion that is methodical. I have seen some of my workshop students try to "scribble" with the airbrush, and the results are not the best, unless that is what you really want.
My number one don't is don't get frustrated and give up I been there done that for 4-5 years I got what I needed to start for Christmas one year didn't know what I was doing got frustrated gave up and know I've done more research I'm back into it and thinking if I kept going how much better I would be right now, big regret, Warrick you're one of the reasons I'm doing it again and do you do illustration work?
Hey Mike - don't regret, just start making the change today brother. With regard to my work - my main work when I was a professional painter was automotive, particularly bikes and crash helmets. I did do some fairground work too, which was really fun because of the scale, and also some work painting full size sculpture, as well as a good amount of time painting cell phone cases in the 90s. As my work became more involved with the airbrush itself, my own painting has shifted to try to reflect whatever aspect I'm working on, so there's more modelling now than ever before, as that's something which I didn't do in my twenties and thirties. Apart from that, it's whatever I feel I need user information on, I'll paint, to try to understand the experience, and then develop based upon that.
i totally agree .. like in the case of space scenes ..,, make the initial nebulas which require to be sharp and 100 percent opaque use the brush and then for glazing or shading use the airbrush
Good ideas, I'll try and remind myself. I tend to keep colour recipes with models that I'm part way through😊👍✌️ Use the appropriate tool for the job, horses for courses ✌️👍😊💜
I have a question: I see a lot of people airbrushing without a mask so I was wondering, if it is needed? My Workstation is right next to the window. Thank you for the tips, great video!
As long as you ensure that your colour changes and cleaning is done into a spray out pot with an exhaust filter, you'll be much better off than without this key piece of equipment. That's the definitive first step. Breathe through your nose whilst painting, and after that, blow your nose and assess the tissue. Coloured = consider mask. Normal = all good.
I think for me it’s practice practice practice to get the best of of the airbrush, replacing any damaged parts and disciplined cleaning are a must. I like to keep spare new needles for my airbrushes so I’m not tempted to try and use one that is less than perfect
I hate to come across as trying to make people buy anything unnecessary, but you are definitely right on this one - if you have at least one spare needle, then it eliminates that temptation, which u ultimately might cost you a nozzle. Great advice!
Very soon! Although I'd debate that it's an issue. There's too much great work out there which has been created with the Infinity to say that it has an issue. However, I would agree that we can improve upon it. And we definitely have ;-) looking forward to releasing it soon... W
regarding the 3rd do, I was told the same thing. Write down your recipes for your paints. While some brands of paints have their own thinners and cleaners some don't. I have Found since I started working more and more with Vallejo, their airbrush cleaner is the best, it really flushes the paint even some metallic paints like Turbo Dork so easily. Don't get frustrated and learn from whatever happens, I use my airbrush a lot more than my brushes... to the point that I did an experiment, and I was able to paint a Warhammer head with my airbrush, just turned down the pressure and got shades and highlights...
Awesome buddy - that's fun doing that... I think the best way is to use whichever tool gives the best outcome. Airbrush certainly outperforms the brush in some areas, but the reverse is also true. Thanks for the comment and the tips! W
The GIRALDEZ INFINITY model has it and it's great, but I have one problem with it. It's about the lever and its cone. I can't place my finger correctly. Please introduce some modified lever for this airbrush, even in the paid option. PLEAASSS!!!!
Hey buddy... we specifically made the Giraldez to help people to learn in HIS style of painting... one of the particular points about how Angel paints, is that he puts more pressure on the rear part of the top button, which causes it to pull back slightly as he depresses it. We wanted to "automate" this to users of this airbrush, so we made that little ramp to force them to place their finger in the same way that Angel does... So it's not about "correct" placement of the finger - as we say in the description of this airbrush - it is specifically made to help people who wish to learn to paint in the method of Angel Giraldez. BUT thanks for the feedback... you're not the first to say it, so it is something which is on our list of discussion points. Thanks!
@@harderairbrush Fantastic! :) I will be watching and waiting for an alternative solution to this lever in GIRALDEZ INFINITY. I also noticed in the comments (in another video) that many users have similar problems with this type of leverage and they try to deal with it "in house": ruclips.net/video/ZANRs-RAbLw/видео.html
I use mine to mix stuff, for filling holes with UV resin, picking dried paint from crevices I couldn't usually get to etc. Also pressing the reset button on some electronics 😂
Ah man - they are great. Good paint mixers if you bend the tip into an O like a bubble blower (also mini-bubble blower, thinking about it), excellent for hooking o-rings out of grooves, heating the tip up and spearing the bases of very small parts for painting without covering any part of the little part, to mention a few! Oh and to transfer a tiny drop of cyanoacrylate glue to a small area... great for that.
I have a question about a trigger air control - I have the Iwata Eclipse airbrush and Infinity CR - Iwata's one has only two position - air on and air off, it's almost impossible to catch the medium position. But Infinity has deep long and smooth trigger pressing control, especially if tuning the spring bellow the trigger. Is it has meaning? Should I use this ability with intermediate positions or just use only full open and closed position for air?
Hey Pavel - yes absolutely. Here at H&S we have always admired the airvalve of the OLD Aerograph Super63. It was a very progressive airvalve, but the manner of manufacturing was absolutely unsuitable for use with solvents, and they would disintegrate very fast. So when we designed our airvalve, we tried to include this character in an engineering which is much more robust and suitable for many uses. Iwata has a different philosophy with their airvalve, preferring a very light action ON/ OFF. So yes, it is intentional from H&S to make our airvalve function this way, and it is up to our customers to decide which philosophy is preferred :-) W
Figure out the ergonomics of where and how you will fill, park and clean/colour change your brush AND YOUR HOSE, because you don't want to drop your brush with the needle exposed or if it is full of paint even when you have put it down to rest, reaching for a model or part of different paint can result in knocking or dropping followed by swearing and crying.
AND do disconnect the hose after use so that you don't get moisture dropping in it whilst it cools off... that's a really top tip, but I left it out as it is in another video :-)
@harderairbrush I've seen that one Warwick, And the one about Remove the drain plug from the tank especially on humid days. (Not that we get many humid days in Yorkshire) ✌( ᵔ ͜ʖ ᵔ )
If you use non acrylic paints (like enamels, streaking grime, etc) CLEAN THE AIRBRUSH afterwards. I have a sacrificial airbrush just for the nastier materials. Many things can go trough the airbrush but streaking grime is especially nasty. If you leave that in for just a bit - it will clog up really badly! If you store the airbrush in a stand, or in the cleaning bucket, add a little cap to the paint cup. Several airbrushes don't have caps. If you leave it like that, dust WILL get into the cup and down to the needle. It just complicates things. Add a small bottle cap or any cap for that matter and cover the top of the paint cup. Add quick connectors to the airbrushes. It saves so much time on screwing in and out the hose. They cost like 2-3 bucks... Saves a lot of time :) Compressor tip: If you have a tanked compressor. Drain the moisture! If you know you will not use it for some days, remove the bottom cap and let it dry out completely! Saves you from rust :) If the compressor or connectors leak, have some teflon tape at home. It saves you from a lot of head ache. Teflon tape is dirt cheap. Have some natural beeswax. If you are in a pinch and killed one of your O rings, you can use in most cases beeswax as sealant. On my sacrificial airbrush the nozzle and the nozzle cap are both tightened with beeswax. I don't know if it is possible with a Harder and Steenbeck one, I have not tried - but most cheaper airbrushes can be tightened well with it. I've got mine from a hobby store - it is for creating candles. A little goes a really long way.
Thanks for taking the time to write that! To answer your question - we don't have threaded nozzles - it's a PTFE seal there, so no beeswax required :-)
@@harderairbrush Thanks for making awesome videos! These are lovely to see and there are always new things to hear about! :) And about the PTFE seal - yeah! Right! I just remembered that your airbrushes have this special nozzle and I was unable to imagine how anything could be tightened there :D I only had to disassemble my Evolution CR once when I did some nasty errors on it :D It is a real workhorse and a marvellous piece of engineering. The other "cheap-o" ones always have issues :D
1, Don't lick the air brush 2, Don't keep fiddling with your pressure if your paint consistency isn't already consistent 3, Don't try to prime a tank with .2 needle
Now I'm wondering if you're a custom painter or a scale modeller... If you're a custom painter, then man, you must have spent a loooong time on that tank!
@@harderairbrushThankfully, I am just a table quality painter and I was fine once I got the prime coat on...felt like a total dip after I went to swap the .2 in to start zenithal and pre-shade and my .5 internals were still nice and bundled up in their drawer of parts labeled "Priming Needles". I have since gotten a cheap Master Airbrush with the .5 always installed and Priming carved into the handle with my rotary tool...lol
Well let me comment on that as well :-) really, for primer, and any paint for that matter, we want something that offers total control over how much film we build up. Because what are we buying when we buy a model? We are buying that beautiful moulded detail. So let's not fill it in with paint that's poorly atomised, or brushed on too thick... So there's technically nothing wrong with using a smaller nozzle size to prime.
My biggest don't was learned the hard way. I should have known better, because it's true for any tool you use. Don't buy more than you need to get the job done. I let someone convince me that I really needed an expensive airbrush with all the bells and whistles. I use my airbrush to paint models. But an artist I'm not. I'm not trying to create work of art. Just put paint on a model. I found all I need is a very simple airbrush. Now, don't mistake simple for lack of quality. I need it to be reliable and able to apply a consistent coat of paint, without a lot of hassle. But I don't need a brush with a dozen adjustments and gadgets on it. I just want to paint. Some might ask why use an airbrush at all? The answer is that an airbrush excels at painting rough, uneven surfaces that are a major chore with a brush. A ventilation grate on a tank is a prime example. Painting them with a brush is a headache. Yet, quick, easy work with an airbrush. Another is a surface that models things like nuts and bolts. Small details sticking up from a flat surface. Very difficult to get paint all around the edges with a brush, and get an even coat all over. It's a snap with an airbrush. So again, not looking to be an artist. But still want a nice looking finish. I found real quick I didn't need a Maserati. A BMW works fine.
Yes I did notice that after the edit! Whilst trying to make sure that the point of a flat palm was shown well, my pinky momentarily went out of control, and joined the United Kingdom.
Very good point! Also, paint is on most people's phones who use notepad when painting ;-) just kidding buddy... When I think of taking notes I still think of a notebook and a pen, rather than making notes on my phone, even though it's probably a better idea. I think it's probably something to do with the fact that I am actually older than the internet. W
Being 58. Learning how to put up youtube videos has been a struggle. After the operation this Christmas, I'm a new person. I'm showing my gratitude by trying to get The Army Painter, Catalyst game labs, and possibly you to drop by for the new upcoming 2.0 Army Painter release. This has been a brainstorming idea of mine over this weekend. Trudi Wagner, who runs Board Fox, has no idea that I'm trying to make this happen. I even messaged Henry Cavil about dropping by. This would be a once in a lifetime experience for them and this entire town.
Hey Bruce... very cool what you're doing. Love that you're sharing your experiences of painting with Parkinson's. Not sure what you mean about the release stuff, but would be really happy to see if there's anything we can do to help with your painting experience. We occasionally do custom stuff to help out people who could do with a helping hand, especially when they can get that information to others who might benefit. I'm on wjs@harder-airbrush.de if you'd like to get in touch. W
My top "do" is to actually use the airbrush!
I'm relatively new to this tool and for many years I was put off even buying one as it seemed like a "pro tool" and not for crap amateurs like me. I was eventually gifted a cheap clone (since replaced). After the initial burst of enthusiasm and ruined paint jobs, I started to get some results I actually liked.
Then there was the "can I be bothered with all the faff?" period and the brush sat there, in its stand, staring at me.
Now I'm at the "can I use the airbrush or bristle brush for this?" stage and starting to default to the airbrush. Every time I learn something new about paint management, accuracy, what is possible etc and with use, I've now got my cleaning routine faster and everything is far less bother.
Top "don't" is "Don't give up!"
Thanks for that insight! Something is coming for this stage ;-)
You have already done it! You made the new 2024 ultra . The larger handle. The settings are basically a stop to rest against, so shaking isn't a poblem. Universal heads and needles to change out as one gets better. You have already done it! Thank you for that. As a fan of your videos, I will definitely let you know when I purchase mine. I've kind of woken up from my Parkinson's surgery a new person . I value your opinion on airbrushes. (This is where I share to much and edit it out)At age 58, I'll get to use one properly for the first time. Trudi Wagner is the lady that runs Board Fox games. I'll do an unboxing of it there. I definitely want to practice with it before I film that . But it will be damn good free advertising. I've basically had Parkinson's my entire adult life. Your new design is amazing! If I ever come across as negative about anything, please realize that it stems from being not much more than a walking around zombie from the time I was thirteen to about 20, so missed out on most social skills.(head wound). I will keep the rest of my texts far shorter. Thank you again.
Warrick, I do have a stiff index finger due to injury on my dominant (left) hand, but hell no, that ain't gonna stop me!
It may look weird, but I use my thumb on the trigger, and it works for me.
Not weird at all - you're in good company - the great HR Giger (responsible for the concept art for "Alien") uses his thumb.
@@harderairbrush Excellent! Love Giger's artwork, becoming just half as good at painting is a goal to work for.
I’m going to go back to keeping my notebook. I got teased so much for keeping one regarding airbrushing. “Real airbrush artists don’t need notes”” and so many other teasing comments. Thank you for doing these videos. :)
Very inspiring, Warwick.
I particularly take a point of the notebook.
It's so easy when on a creative splurge to just throw it all in, but unlike computers, there is no "undo" or "history", so keeping tabs is essential if you want to return to it.
I do mainly 3D prints, (not miniatures), and all my print failures I throw in a box and use for paint practice, as well as formulating new colours, primers and finishes.
Taking notes and labelling parts with a Sharpie is essential.
Thank you! Here I am, wondering what to print just for practising painting without realising about whole bunch of failed prints ideal for this :D
@@sebatiis Yeah, never throw stuff out.
Also good for testing things like fillers and practising technique. If you cock it up, no harm done.
I'm about to purchase my first airbrush, the new Ultra 2024. I honestly appreciate the human face to H&S, that builds a great amount of trust towards the brand. Having read countless comments and watched many review videos, I'm confident I'm making the right choice. Still looking for the best first compressor… 😅🤔
Ah that's great - thanks so much! Best compressor... keep it very simple. Don't over feature. Personally, I believe that currently the Sparmax Pro compressor that we sell is a great choice - you can find it on our site and in many other places too. Other than that, the cheaper alternatives are also pretty good, if generally at times a little louder and less reliable. The Hobby compressor is also a good choice if you're looking to keep the budget lower!
I can listen to you talk about airbrushes all day. I’m reintroducing myself to them again and have gotten nothing but solid information from you and your team. Definitely my favourite channel on the subject.
I really would like my next airbrush to be a Harder & Steenbeck, especially the Evolution Silverline. Aesthetically it looks like it could have been designed by Philippe Starck and I would argue that it’s the sexiest looking airbrush ever made. Absolutely beautiful and I’m sure the craftsmanship is on par with the aesthetics.
I have two concerns that I’m hoping you could comment on. The first is that I have an allergy to nickel and I’m heavily gravitating towards the Silverline M. I really want my next brush to have a side feed. Aside from coating it with nail polish varnish or wearing gloves are there any chrome plated or even no plated options available for the M?
My second concern is with the trigger response. Multiple reviewers have commented that there is a delayed response. Does this issue only exist with older models and is this why some of the models now come with teflon washers? If not, are there ways to tweak the valve or washers to adjust the response? I feel like this might be something that would frustrate me over time. I think clearing this up would help us apprehensive buyers make up our minds and join the club.
Many thanks.
Hey Michael - if you're concerned about the Nickel, then you really should take any of the CRPlus models - the Evolution comes in a CR model - these are triple Chrome plated. With regard to the trigger response - for sure, there are always things which we can improve about our products, but I think that the work which has been done by Harder & Steenbeck airbrushes in the hands of many artists speaks for itself, in terms of the performance ceiling of our airbrushes. However, all I can say at the moment, is that there is a lot of work focussed on improving our products in all sorts of ways at the moment. I hope you join us!
I'd love a video on panel modulation for airbrushing armoured vehicles
Thank you - noted!
Good shout. Seconded.
Another video that I’m reviewing to help me get started. Thank you very much as always. Proud ultra owner. Be well be you.
Another informative video. Here's my small list of do's and don'ts so far: Don'ts: Leave paint dry inside the airbrush, remove the needle when there's paint in the airbrush, Keep my hand still while spraying. Do's: Have fun! Keep practising, use appropriate air pressure for the corresponding paint consistency, Keep up the good work!
Nice set!
I airbrush my handturned wooden bowls with Fiber Reactive Dyes, and really feel your recommendation to keep a book nearby to record successes, failures and color recipes is essential. I have one and have looked back on color combinations I really liked, but would never remember them after a while! In my book, I have the colors and blends I am thinking about or have used. The other thing I would recommend is to paint in a steady motion that is methodical. I have seen some of my workshop students try to "scribble" with the airbrush, and the results are not the best, unless that is what you really want.
That is a really good addition to this video - thanks for commenting about that! You are very much correct!
My number one don't is don't get frustrated and give up I been there done that for 4-5 years I got what I needed to start for Christmas one year didn't know what I was doing got frustrated gave up and know I've done more research I'm back into it and thinking if I kept going how much better I would be right now, big regret, Warrick you're one of the reasons I'm doing it again and do you do illustration work?
Hey Mike - don't regret, just start making the change today brother. With regard to my work - my main work when I was a professional painter was automotive, particularly bikes and crash helmets. I did do some fairground work too, which was really fun because of the scale, and also some work painting full size sculpture, as well as a good amount of time painting cell phone cases in the 90s. As my work became more involved with the airbrush itself, my own painting has shifted to try to reflect whatever aspect I'm working on, so there's more modelling now than ever before, as that's something which I didn't do in my twenties and thirties. Apart from that, it's whatever I feel I need user information on, I'll paint, to try to understand the experience, and then develop based upon that.
Wow this is amazing advice - for airbrushing and for life!!
Hey John - thank you for that comment brother!
i totally agree .. like in the case of space scenes ..,, make the initial nebulas which require to be sharp and 100 percent opaque use the brush and then for glazing or shading use the airbrush
Excellent - they are all brushes of one kind or another :-)
@@harderairbrush thanks you for so actively replying back to your views ... my best wishes to you .
Good ideas, I'll try and remind myself. I tend to keep colour recipes with models that I'm part way through😊👍✌️ Use the appropriate tool for the job, horses for courses ✌️👍😊💜
I have a question: I see a lot of people airbrushing without a mask so I was wondering, if it is needed? My Workstation is right next to the window. Thank you for the tips, great video!
As long as you ensure that your colour changes and cleaning is done into a spray out pot with an exhaust filter, you'll be much better off than without this key piece of equipment. That's the definitive first step. Breathe through your nose whilst painting, and after that, blow your nose and assess the tissue. Coloured = consider mask. Normal = all good.
@@harderairbrush alright thanks, I will get one of those spray out pots. Thank you so much🙏🏻
Great video as always.
Thanks Simon!
I think for me it’s practice practice practice to get the best of of the airbrush, replacing any damaged parts and disciplined cleaning are a must. I like to keep spare new needles for my airbrushes so I’m not tempted to try and use one that is less than perfect
I hate to come across as trying to make people buy anything unnecessary, but you are definitely right on this one - if you have at least one spare needle, then it eliminates that temptation, which u ultimately might cost you a nozzle. Great advice!
When are you addressing the trigger issue on the Infinity line up?
Very soon! Although I'd debate that it's an issue. There's too much great work out there which has been created with the Infinity to say that it has an issue. However, I would agree that we can improve upon it. And we definitely have ;-) looking forward to releasing it soon... W
regarding the 3rd do, I was told the same thing. Write down your recipes for your paints. While some brands of paints have their own thinners and cleaners some don't. I have Found since I started working more and more with Vallejo, their airbrush cleaner is the best, it really flushes the paint even some metallic paints like Turbo Dork so easily. Don't get frustrated and learn from whatever happens, I use my airbrush a lot more than my brushes... to the point that I did an experiment, and I was able to paint a Warhammer head with my airbrush, just turned down the pressure and got shades and highlights...
Awesome buddy - that's fun doing that... I think the best way is to use whichever tool gives the best outcome. Airbrush certainly outperforms the brush in some areas, but the reverse is also true. Thanks for the comment and the tips! W
My "do" is. Saving up to buy a house with space for a hobby room where I can use an airbrush.
All the best with the house hunting :-)
The GIRALDEZ INFINITY model has it and it's great, but I have one problem with it. It's about the lever and its cone. I can't place my finger correctly. Please introduce some modified lever for this airbrush, even in the paid option. PLEAASSS!!!!
Hey buddy... we specifically made the Giraldez to help people to learn in HIS style of painting... one of the particular points about how Angel paints, is that he puts more pressure on the rear part of the top button, which causes it to pull back slightly as he depresses it. We wanted to "automate" this to users of this airbrush, so we made that little ramp to force them to place their finger in the same way that Angel does... So it's not about "correct" placement of the finger - as we say in the description of this airbrush - it is specifically made to help people who wish to learn to paint in the method of Angel Giraldez. BUT thanks for the feedback... you're not the first to say it, so it is something which is on our list of discussion points. Thanks!
@@harderairbrush Fantastic! :) I will be watching and waiting for an alternative solution to this lever in GIRALDEZ INFINITY. I also noticed in the comments (in another video) that many users have similar problems with this type of leverage and they try to deal with it "in house": ruclips.net/video/ZANRs-RAbLw/видео.html
Thank you for that - I have written a response in that video's comments section which hopefully helps to shed some light!
After any change or break in work, always test the spray on scrap paper first.
Good tip... W
So … what exactly are bent needles useful for? Will that be next video? 😃
I use mine to mix stuff, for filling holes with UV resin, picking dried paint from crevices I couldn't usually get to etc. Also pressing the reset button on some electronics 😂
Ah man - they are great. Good paint mixers if you bend the tip into an O like a bubble blower (also mini-bubble blower, thinking about it), excellent for hooking o-rings out of grooves, heating the tip up and spearing the bases of very small parts for painting without covering any part of the little part, to mention a few! Oh and to transfer a tiny drop of cyanoacrylate glue to a small area... great for that.
I have a question about a trigger air control - I have the Iwata Eclipse airbrush and Infinity CR - Iwata's one has only two position - air on and air off, it's almost impossible to catch the medium position. But Infinity has deep long and smooth trigger pressing control, especially if tuning the spring bellow the trigger. Is it has meaning? Should I use this ability with intermediate positions or just use only full open and closed position for air?
Hey Pavel - yes absolutely. Here at H&S we have always admired the airvalve of the OLD Aerograph Super63. It was a very progressive airvalve, but the manner of manufacturing was absolutely unsuitable for use with solvents, and they would disintegrate very fast. So when we designed our airvalve, we tried to include this character in an engineering which is much more robust and suitable for many uses. Iwata has a different philosophy with their airvalve, preferring a very light action ON/ OFF. So yes, it is intentional from H&S to make our airvalve function this way, and it is up to our customers to decide which philosophy is preferred :-) W
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When you use your note book for a mix spray a small circle so yo know the colour at the side
Good one! W
I fully agree with replacing the needle if you suspect its bent! Its absolutely frustrating trying to use a bent needle.
I want to order
Love these tips! Your content is amazing.
Thank you Mr HazMat!
Figure out the ergonomics of where and how you will fill, park and clean/colour change your brush AND YOUR HOSE, because you don't want to drop your brush with the needle exposed or if it is full of paint even when you have put it down to rest, reaching for a model or part of different paint can result in knocking or dropping followed by swearing and crying.
Good advice :-)
Do disconnect the hose after use, so you don't roll the chair over it!
AND do disconnect the hose after use so that you don't get moisture dropping in it whilst it cools off... that's a really top tip, but I left it out as it is in another video :-)
@harderairbrush I've seen that one Warwick, And the one about Remove the drain plug from the tank especially on humid days. (Not that we get many humid days in Yorkshire)
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If you use non acrylic paints (like enamels, streaking grime, etc) CLEAN THE AIRBRUSH afterwards. I have a sacrificial airbrush just for the nastier materials. Many things can go trough the airbrush but streaking grime is especially nasty. If you leave that in for just a bit - it will clog up really badly!
If you store the airbrush in a stand, or in the cleaning bucket, add a little cap to the paint cup. Several airbrushes don't have caps. If you leave it like that, dust WILL get into the cup and down to the needle. It just complicates things. Add a small bottle cap or any cap for that matter and cover the top of the paint cup.
Add quick connectors to the airbrushes. It saves so much time on screwing in and out the hose. They cost like 2-3 bucks... Saves a lot of time :)
Compressor tip: If you have a tanked compressor. Drain the moisture! If you know you will not use it for some days, remove the bottom cap and let it dry out completely! Saves you from rust :)
If the compressor or connectors leak, have some teflon tape at home. It saves you from a lot of head ache. Teflon tape is dirt cheap.
Have some natural beeswax. If you are in a pinch and killed one of your O rings, you can use in most cases beeswax as sealant. On my sacrificial airbrush the nozzle and the nozzle cap are both tightened with beeswax. I don't know if it is possible with a Harder and Steenbeck one, I have not tried - but most cheaper airbrushes can be tightened well with it. I've got mine from a hobby store - it is for creating candles. A little goes a really long way.
Thanks for taking the time to write that! To answer your question - we don't have threaded nozzles - it's a PTFE seal there, so no beeswax required :-)
@@harderairbrush Thanks for making awesome videos! These are lovely to see and there are always new things to hear about! :)
And about the PTFE seal - yeah! Right! I just remembered that your airbrushes have this special nozzle and I was unable to imagine how anything could be tightened there :D I only had to disassemble my Evolution CR once when I did some nasty errors on it :D It is a real workhorse and a marvellous piece of engineering. The other "cheap-o" ones always have issues :D
Lots of interesting engineering coming soon buddy - keep tuned in ;-)
1, Don't lick the air brush
2, Don't keep fiddling with your pressure if your paint consistency isn't already consistent
3, Don't try to prime a tank with .2 needle
Now I'm wondering if you're a custom painter or a scale modeller... If you're a custom painter, then man, you must have spent a loooong time on that tank!
@@harderairbrushThankfully, I am just a table quality painter and I was fine once I got the prime coat on...felt like a total dip after I went to swap the .2 in to start zenithal and pre-shade and my .5 internals were still nice and bundled up in their drawer of parts labeled "Priming Needles". I have since gotten a cheap Master Airbrush with the .5 always installed and Priming carved into the handle with my rotary tool...lol
Well let me comment on that as well :-) really, for primer, and any paint for that matter, we want something that offers total control over how much film we build up. Because what are we buying when we buy a model? We are buying that beautiful moulded detail. So let's not fill it in with paint that's poorly atomised, or brushed on too thick... So there's technically nothing wrong with using a smaller nozzle size to prime.
My biggest don't was learned the hard way. I should have known better, because it's true for any tool you use. Don't buy more than you need to get the job done. I let someone convince me that I really needed an expensive airbrush with all the bells and whistles. I use my airbrush to paint models. But an artist I'm not. I'm not trying to create work of art. Just put paint on a model. I found all I need is a very simple airbrush. Now, don't mistake simple for lack of quality. I need it to be reliable and able to apply a consistent coat of paint, without a lot of hassle. But I don't need a brush with a dozen adjustments and gadgets on it. I just want to paint. Some might ask why use an airbrush at all? The answer is that an airbrush excels at painting rough, uneven surfaces that are a major chore with a brush. A ventilation grate on a tank is a prime example. Painting them with a brush is a headache. Yet, quick, easy work with an airbrush. Another is a surface that models things like nuts and bolts. Small details sticking up from a flat surface. Very difficult to get paint all around the edges with a brush, and get an even coat all over. It's a snap with an airbrush. So again, not looking to be an artist. But still want a nice looking finish. I found real quick I didn't need a Maserati. A BMW works fine.
I think if you come from a commonwealth country, you should hold your pinky up when holding an airbrush, as if you were enjoying a cup of tea.
Yes I did notice that after the edit! Whilst trying to make sure that the point of a flat palm was shown well, my pinky momentarily went out of control, and joined the United Kingdom.
Your page is hard to follow for placing an order
DON'T put anything in the nozzle that isn't a needle
I like that!
a mix tape ...... you are showing your age luv
I existed before the internet. W
Note pad is on most peoples phones
Very good point! Also, paint is on most people's phones who use notepad when painting ;-) just kidding buddy... When I think of taking notes I still think of a notebook and a pen, rather than making notes on my phone, even though it's probably a better idea. I think it's probably something to do with the fact that I am actually older than the internet. W
Being 58. Learning how to put up youtube videos has been a struggle. After the operation this Christmas, I'm a new person. I'm showing my gratitude by trying to get The Army Painter, Catalyst game labs, and possibly you to drop by for the new upcoming 2.0 Army Painter release. This has been a brainstorming idea of mine over this weekend. Trudi Wagner, who runs Board Fox, has no idea that I'm trying to make this happen. I even messaged Henry Cavil about dropping by. This would be a once in a lifetime experience for them and this entire town.
Hey Bruce... very cool what you're doing. Love that you're sharing your experiences of painting with Parkinson's. Not sure what you mean about the release stuff, but would be really happy to see if there's anything we can do to help with your painting experience. We occasionally do custom stuff to help out people who could do with a helping hand, especially when they can get that information to others who might benefit. I'm on wjs@harder-airbrush.de if you'd like to get in touch. W
Buy a different brand of airbrush than H&S comes to mind as a don't. Great product is my squidmar evolution.
Thanks Andrew!