8:11 "Don't just do one continuous line like calligraphy...do it with starts and stops" That would be cursive with a continuous line. Calligraphy has starts and stops. So you could use calligraphy.
I’m a beginner, and I was thinking to myself while airbrushing my plastic model,the sound of the brush is amazing. I asked myself ,recalling previous paint sessions how it sounded? There is a difference. 👍🏼👍🏼
Amen to that Warwick. As we said in a previous comment, back in the 1970s, when airbrushing with archaic airbrushes life was a LOT more difficult. I think that a recent issue I had - even spraying through my ancient blowpipe Paasche H (used for primer and base coats on large scale models from time to time) - a lovely tone of cheap acrylic, the right colour, not great particulate/grind quality and even with the Paasche, the right thinning, it all went VERY badly wrong (it was late and I was tired too). Airbrush clean up - usually easy - was a 'mare, especially with red, it also became gelatinous quickly too. Sadly, my hearing is badly damaged these days so I miss nuances in airbrush sounds, but it was a useful indicator when I could hear. When using modern modelling acrylics, I don't seem to get many, if any problems, only when I go off piste (I won't be doing that in a hurry again!).
Ah the good old Paasche H... awesome awesome weapon for applying large scale texture to dioramas. Really good. Always will have a soft spot for the old Paasche brushes!
I had a commission now to 3D print the platonic solids, as well as the surface cuts of cones, cylinders, etc. The client wanted them painted in different colours (outside and cut surfaces). The colour count made it not sustainable to paint with cans, so I used my modelling paints. So last week I've airbrushed for about 17h-s which hurt as hell at the end of the week :D But man, have I learned a lot about this experience. Paint consistency is not as important as you'd think. You can compensate for poorly formulated paint by changing position and amount of paint applied. It is also really hard to fix if you accidentally apply too much paint and you end up with surface inconsistencies. I still haven't really figured out a good way to fix this issue other than sanding it back down by 1200 grit. But the most important thing is, that doing large surfaces next to each other where the paints must not overlap is really helpful and a really good practice. I mean I don't think I have ever watched paint dry for so long :D But what is important is to use thin layers and apply more. Thick layers are really bad :D After I've got the hang of it (on the 20 sided icosahedron for example) I've became very very efficient with my painting. I applied about 15 layers in 3-4 minutes / surface which sped up the process a lot. So what I hope to add here, is to paint, paint and paint more. Get a cube, or some other thing and paint it to a colour. It helps a lot to see how paint dries, how changing consistency effects the work flow, etc.
These video's have /are a great help. I can finally say, I can paint for some time change colors and not get the air brush clogged. That in it self has been a massive advancement for me. Now I can try these exercises for hand control... Thank you
I would like to say in advance that I am not a professional and this only reflects my experience. I own the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CRplus Two in One #2 Double Action Airbrush and have two problems with it 1. I fill paint into the airbrush. If I push the main level down and pull it backwards, there will be color or none. If there is no color and I pull a little further back, suddenly there is too much. The color flow always starts at different points. 2. There are colors that always block my infinity. Unless I dilute the colors so much that I can no longer use them. e.g. the colors of the Vallejo Fairy Flesh Set That's why I bought an airbrush from another manufacturer in about the same price range and I don't have any of these problems. But this has a 0.35 mm needle. I bought the Infinity because it has a 0.2 and a 0.4 needle and I now miss the 0.2 needle. But I can't get a handle on the Infinity with either the 0.2 or 0.4 needle. And I just don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Hey buddy - firstly, thanks very much for reaching out. We know that our airbrushes can do everything that you would like them to, as there are thousands of people doing just that with them. So it's always better to reach out, than to remain frustrated! Please get in touch with me personally on wjs@harder-airbrush.de as often these problems are better solved on a video call, than by message or email. Get in touch, and we will set it up, and I'm very confident that we'll have you getting creative with your Infinity very soon!
Thank you Warrick for the tips my trigger control needs work and sometimes I get frustrated but I have to remind myself baby steps and food colors will let me concentrate on control.
Hey Mike - a good friend of mine and a GREAT airbrusher, Marcus, always tells his students to sit when watching the TV and just use the trigger... just sit there with the airbrush and push down, pull back a little, push forward, little more little less - just do it as you are relaxing... you will develop a lot more feeling and control before you know it. It really works.
Thank you sir for another fantastic video. I have been having great success using Two Thin Coats with my Infinity. They seem to be very consistent across colors and I’ve had excellent results with a 5:2 ratio thinner to paint.
Hi Warrick (and the troupe at H & S). Just wanted to say a big thank you for putting these videos up for us novices. I've recently bought a Evolution silver line CR plus and basically not gotten further than base and zenithal highlights on miniatures using it. The nights are drawing in and I'd love to 'up my game' with my airbrush - as it deserves more than base coats. I have a dragon type miniature with lots of muscle tones. I'm thieving your RUclips knowledge of your products to hopefully do it some credit. Thank you so much for all these videos again. 🙏
It's good in the sense that it's easier to airbrush for extended periods, but it actually makes the trigger somewhat more sensitive as it's very fluid, and this helps to develop control too.
Not that tight... you should just about be able to discern that it's there, but only just... for example, if you hold your needle vertically, the airbrush should slide down it.
Thanks for these. I have been at this game for a bit now and I think the resource you are building up is fantastic and will make life a lot easier for new entrants.
I love the comments about the sound of airbrushing. I was watching some RUclips videos about the Colani and one of the videos (Barbados Rex) had the sound way, way off. Like a high pitched whistle. It was his microphone or something but it really odd. Please do a video, anything... about the Colani! It needs some love! I have some larger projects (1/16th 'Vette and a 1/24th 18 wheeler for my son) and I've been considering a Colani.
Yes, the Colani... what an airbrush... it's so iconic and so unique... we've left it to the end of the development cycle expressly for that reason... of all the products, it is actually the thickest to find the best ways to add value to it because of how unique it already is... but we are working on it! Might take some time though :-)
Thank you for the food dye tip! :) Are there any downsides to using a grainy/splattery paint for texturing? Would it be better to use a good paint and tweak consistency and pressure for a similar effect?
To be honest, I'm a firm believer in whatever works... the only thing I'd say about "grainy" paints is that it tends to indicate that other aspects of the paint may not have had the same care taken over them as well, so I'm always concerned that the base won't be as robust etc. For me, I like to work good paint, and use the variables in how one can utilise the airbrush to work with textures etc. Must do a video on that! There are a LOT of methods!
I am so excited to get the squidmar ultra. Do you have a preference for a paint brand? What size needle do you recommend? Is the one that comes with the ultra enough to do fine detail or should I get a smaller one?
Hello Baron! With regard to head sizes - the ULTRA comes with the set-up that we recommend for beginners. That's why we don't offer the ULTRA in different versions - we believe this version is the perfect way to start. The 0.45mm is really quite capable of detail, and some might even say astonishing for a 0.45 :-) I'd say hold fire with CC until you've painted with the 0.45 and then upgrade your head size as your skills increase. For the start, keep it simple :-) Paint Brand - really it's hard to go wrong nowadays - almost all of them are great. I'd just pick one that has a palette which speaks to you creatively.
I love my chameleon airbrushes, they are amazing quality and reliability. I’ve tried so many paints and go back to (and stay with) createx now. What a combo!! Great vids 😎😎😎
Love the video! Never thought about the sound of my airbrush, great tip! I'm glad acrylic paints have improved so much, always envious of the spectacular quality of toxic, flammable lacquer paints.
It depends what you're painting. If it's automotive or similar, then it is sometimes really useful to encapsulate the acrylic with a clear base coat (i.e. base coat with no pigment)... if you want to stay water based for the clear, then Createx have some really excellent clears which you can use to protect acrylic during the masking/ handling processes prior to final clear. However, generally, the modern acrylics are pretty robust.
I just recently got re-introduced into the airbrushing ecosystem so I’m glad I found your videos, these are great! Thank you for posting them. I got my H & S Infinity airbrush a week ago and it’s beautiful, and it performs as good as it looks 🤩! Although I also got a Micron the same week, my Infinty airbrush is my go-to airbrush. The Infinity has a lot of versatility, plus capabilities for also doing details. It’s easier to troubleshoot picky paints, and much faster to clean 😅 This is a great tip about the food dye colors! I’m ordering some today. Does this mean that anything we spray we can eat? 🤔😋 😁Outside of the corny joke, seriously thank you for the very informative, clear, easy-to-understand videos here at H & S! 🙏 😊
It's a really good question Richard, and I'm afraid that my answer might seem a bit of a cop out, but it's truthful! Basically, it totally depends on your skill level with both tools. Also, if you're looking for a very hard edged line, then the brush will probably always be superior. But if you're looking for an organic line, with the ability to manipulate it's opacity and/ or shape, then the airbrush will be superior.
Very nice video, thanks a lot! Only one little note: if you’re trying to describe something tricky like the right paint consistency dripping of the needle - just show it, so we can any miss understandings out of the way
QUESTION - Having just recently bought the Ultra 2024 I find that its really useful, well, as its designed, however, I hear that this Harder and Steenbeck airbrush is better if you want to do this, and that airbrush is better for that etc etc. Would you be able to either point me to a video, or make a video explaining what each particular airbrush in your range is best for? ie I have my ultra 2024, when should I buy an Evolution, or an Infinity etc
Hey there - hate to hear myself say this out loud, as they don't have a thinner specific for this, but the Vallejo thinner works well, at approx 3:1 i.e. 3 drops thinner, 1 drop paint :-)
Another very informative and helpful video! Thank you! I'm planning to make several primed 30cm x 30cm test panels in different colors so I can confirm I have the right mix before spraying the model. You need to do some videos with new airbrushers so we can learn from their mistakes and your guidance.
Tell my kids :-) and to be serious, yes, we have plans to have some really awesome conversations with incredible people in the future. There are MANY absolutely fascinating people in our airbrush world!!!
@@harderairbrush Did I just read „The Airbrush Round Table featuring Marco Frisoni, Angel Giraldez, El Minaturista and Squidmar“? I think I read that right ;) Looking forward to new content.
@@harderairbrush Maybe make it like a video series? With changing focused per talk/episodes on hardware or techniques and bring the people together? I‘d certainly watch that. Or totally crazy idea. Make it in Grand Tour/Clarkson Farm Style :D You as a veteran and a total noob on the airbrush try different airbrush domains with several experts?
I have to buy a new car… that said, I’m going to buy a H&S as soon as I can. It’s this kind of marketing that sold me on this brand. You didn’t say if “have a H&S airbrush” but you said “there’s a lot of good airbrushs out there.” It’s upfront marketing, and something you don’t see enough of. I appreciate that, but I do have a kid on the way, and my hobbies are going to have to take a back seat.
Ja, sicher, Jens. Hast du es mit den RUclips-Untertiteln versucht? Du findest sie unter dem Reiter "Einstellungen" für jedes Video... Wir haben sie überprüft und sie sind auf Deutsch gar nicht so schlecht...
I am impressed that an airbrush manufacturer is willing to take the time to provide great information to users.
Thanks Louise! Lots more to come!
8:11 "Don't just do one continuous line like calligraphy...do it with starts and stops" That would be cursive with a continuous line. Calligraphy has starts and stops. So you could use calligraphy.
Each of us has a dominant sense...I for me that explanation of the paint sound was more useful than any other advice.
Glad to hear it! It works for me too...
I’m a beginner, and I was thinking to myself while airbrushing my plastic model,the sound of the brush is amazing. I asked myself ,recalling previous paint sessions how it sounded? There is a difference. 👍🏼👍🏼
Yes! Nice :-) on another level, apparently @AngelGiraldeZ can hear the bristles of a paintbrush moving...
Amen to that Warwick. As we said in a previous comment, back in the 1970s, when airbrushing with archaic airbrushes life was a LOT more difficult.
I think that a recent issue I had - even spraying through my ancient blowpipe Paasche H (used for primer and base coats on large scale models from time to time) - a lovely tone of cheap acrylic, the right colour, not great particulate/grind quality and even with the Paasche, the right thinning, it all went VERY badly wrong (it was late and I was tired too). Airbrush clean up - usually easy - was a 'mare, especially with red, it also became gelatinous quickly too.
Sadly, my hearing is badly damaged these days so I miss nuances in airbrush sounds, but it was a useful indicator when I could hear.
When using modern modelling acrylics, I don't seem to get many, if any problems, only when I go off piste (I won't be doing that in a hurry again!).
Ah the good old Paasche H... awesome awesome weapon for applying large scale texture to dioramas. Really good. Always will have a soft spot for the old Paasche brushes!
I had a commission now to 3D print the platonic solids, as well as the surface cuts of cones, cylinders, etc. The client wanted them painted in different colours (outside and cut surfaces). The colour count made it not sustainable to paint with cans, so I used my modelling paints. So last week I've airbrushed for about 17h-s which hurt as hell at the end of the week :D
But man, have I learned a lot about this experience. Paint consistency is not as important as you'd think. You can compensate for poorly formulated paint by changing position and amount of paint applied. It is also really hard to fix if you accidentally apply too much paint and you end up with surface inconsistencies. I still haven't really figured out a good way to fix this issue other than sanding it back down by 1200 grit.
But the most important thing is, that doing large surfaces next to each other where the paints must not overlap is really helpful and a really good practice. I mean I don't think I have ever watched paint dry for so long :D But what is important is to use thin layers and apply more. Thick layers are really bad :D After I've got the hang of it (on the 20 sided icosahedron for example) I've became very very efficient with my painting. I applied about 15 layers in 3-4 minutes / surface which sped up the process a lot.
So what I hope to add here, is to paint, paint and paint more. Get a cube, or some other thing and paint it to a colour. It helps a lot to see how paint dries, how changing consistency effects the work flow, etc.
The food dye idea is interesting :D
Cool Hunter! Thanks for sharing!
These video's have /are a great help.
I can finally say, I can paint for some time change colors and not get the air brush clogged. That in it self has been a massive advancement for me.
Now I can try these exercises for hand control...
Thank you
Our pleasure Dingo!
I would like to say in advance that I am not a professional and this only reflects my experience.
I own the Harder & Steenbeck Infinity CRplus Two in One #2 Double Action Airbrush and have two problems with it
1. I fill paint into the airbrush. If I push the main level down and pull it backwards, there will be color or none. If there is no color and I pull a little further back, suddenly there is too much. The color flow always starts at different points.
2. There are colors that always block my infinity. Unless I dilute the colors so much that I can no longer use them. e.g. the colors of the Vallejo Fairy Flesh Set
That's why I bought an airbrush from another manufacturer in about the same price range and I don't have any of these problems.
But this has a 0.35 mm needle. I bought the Infinity because it has a 0.2 and a 0.4 needle and I now miss the 0.2 needle.
But I can't get a handle on the Infinity with either the 0.2 or 0.4 needle. And I just don't know what I'm doing wrong.
Hey buddy - firstly, thanks very much for reaching out. We know that our airbrushes can do everything that you would like them to, as there are thousands of people doing just that with them. So it's always better to reach out, than to remain frustrated! Please get in touch with me personally on wjs@harder-airbrush.de as often these problems are better solved on a video call, than by message or email. Get in touch, and we will set it up, and I'm very confident that we'll have you getting creative with your Infinity very soon!
Thank you very much, I will do that
Thank you Warrick for the tips my trigger control needs work and sometimes I get frustrated but I have to remind myself baby steps and food colors will let me concentrate on control.
Hey Mike - a good friend of mine and a GREAT airbrusher, Marcus, always tells his students to sit when watching the TV and just use the trigger... just sit there with the airbrush and push down, pull back a little, push forward, little more little less - just do it as you are relaxing... you will develop a lot more feeling and control before you know it. It really works.
@harderairbrush thank you Warrick great idea you are one of my favorites on RUclips
Thanks Mike!
Thank you sir for another fantastic video. I have been having great success using Two Thin Coats with my Infinity. They seem to be very consistent across colors and I’ve had excellent results with a 5:2 ratio thinner to paint.
Ah that's great to hear buddy! I have heard that their paint works very consistently across the colours too, although I haven't yet tried it. Soon!
I am new to airbrushing and have been loving your videos!
Really happy to hear that Jeff!
Hi Warrick (and the troupe at H & S). Just wanted to say a big thank you for putting these videos up for us novices. I've recently bought a Evolution silver line CR plus and basically not gotten further than base and zenithal highlights on miniatures using it. The nights are drawing in and I'd love to 'up my game' with my airbrush - as it deserves more than base coats. I have a dragon type miniature with lots of muscle tones. I'm thieving your RUclips knowledge of your products to hopefully do it some credit. Thank you so much for all these videos again. 🙏
I quite often recommend using Food Coloring to practise trigger control and distance
It's good in the sense that it's easier to airbrush for extended periods, but it actually makes the trigger somewhat more sensitive as it's very fluid, and this helps to develop control too.
@@harderairbrush I was coming more from a low cost point of view, lol, but yeah the fluid nature is going to help with control
I was wondering, how tight should the needle feel in the needle seal? How tight should that packing screw be?
Not that tight... you should just about be able to discern that it's there, but only just... for example, if you hold your needle vertically, the airbrush should slide down it.
I buy packs of large blank index cards to practice on . Good for drawing , painting and airbrushing .
Thanks for these. I have been at this game for a bit now and I think the resource you are building up is fantastic and will make life a lot easier for new entrants.
Hey Sam - thanks very much buddy. Any suggestions to improve are welcome!
I love the comments about the sound of airbrushing. I was watching some RUclips videos about the Colani and one of the videos (Barbados Rex) had the sound way, way off. Like a high pitched whistle. It was his microphone or something but it really odd. Please do a video, anything... about the Colani! It needs some love! I have some larger projects (1/16th 'Vette and a 1/24th 18 wheeler for my son) and I've been considering a Colani.
Yes, the Colani... what an airbrush... it's so iconic and so unique... we've left it to the end of the development cycle expressly for that reason... of all the products, it is actually the thickest to find the best ways to add value to it because of how unique it already is... but we are working on it! Might take some time though :-)
Thank you for the food dye tip! :)
Are there any downsides to using a grainy/splattery paint for texturing? Would it be better to use a good paint and tweak consistency and pressure for a similar effect?
To be honest, I'm a firm believer in whatever works... the only thing I'd say about "grainy" paints is that it tends to indicate that other aspects of the paint may not have had the same care taken over them as well, so I'm always concerned that the base won't be as robust etc. For me, I like to work good paint, and use the variables in how one can utilise the airbrush to work with textures etc. Must do a video on that! There are a LOT of methods!
@@harderairbrush I'm looking forwards to that video! =D
I am so excited to get the squidmar ultra. Do you have a preference for a paint brand? What size needle do you recommend? Is the one that comes with the ultra enough to do fine detail or should I get a smaller one?
Hello Baron! With regard to head sizes - the ULTRA comes with the set-up that we recommend for beginners. That's why we don't offer the ULTRA in different versions - we believe this version is the perfect way to start. The 0.45mm is really quite capable of detail, and some might even say astonishing for a 0.45 :-) I'd say hold fire with CC until you've painted with the 0.45 and then upgrade your head size as your skills increase. For the start, keep it simple :-) Paint Brand - really it's hard to go wrong nowadays - almost all of them are great. I'd just pick one that has a palette which speaks to you creatively.
I love my chameleon airbrushes, they are amazing quality and reliability. I’ve tried so many paints and go back to (and stay with) createx now. What a combo!! Great vids 😎😎😎
Love the video! Never thought about the sound of my airbrush, great tip! I'm glad acrylic paints have improved so much, always envious of the spectacular quality of toxic, flammable lacquer paints.
The acrylics have progressed spectacularly too! Very very close... if not indistinguishable now...
@@harderairbrush I'm still finding acrylics to be so delicate even with the latest clear varnishes on top. So easy to scratch off. :(
It depends what you're painting. If it's automotive or similar, then it is sometimes really useful to encapsulate the acrylic with a clear base coat (i.e. base coat with no pigment)... if you want to stay water based for the clear, then Createx have some really excellent clears which you can use to protect acrylic during the masking/ handling processes prior to final clear. However, generally, the modern acrylics are pretty robust.
I just recently got re-introduced into the airbrushing ecosystem so I’m glad I found your videos, these are great! Thank you for posting them. I got my H & S Infinity airbrush a week ago and it’s beautiful, and it performs as good as it looks 🤩! Although I also got a Micron the same week, my Infinty airbrush is my go-to airbrush. The Infinity has a lot of versatility, plus capabilities for also doing details. It’s easier to troubleshoot picky paints, and much faster to clean 😅 This is a great tip about the food dye colors! I’m ordering some today. Does this mean that anything we spray we can eat? 🤔😋 😁Outside of the corny joke, seriously thank you for the very informative, clear, easy-to-understand videos here at H & S! 🙏 😊
Thank you very much for joining us!
At what point can you paint details with an airbrush or have switch over to a fine brush?
Richard
It's a really good question Richard, and I'm afraid that my answer might seem a bit of a cop out, but it's truthful! Basically, it totally depends on your skill level with both tools. Also, if you're looking for a very hard edged line, then the brush will probably always be superior. But if you're looking for an organic line, with the ability to manipulate it's opacity and/ or shape, then the airbrush will be superior.
Very nice video, thanks a lot! Only one little note: if you’re trying to describe something tricky like the right paint consistency dripping of the needle - just show it, so we can any miss understandings out of the way
Thanks for the tip mate - we will do that...
QUESTION - Having just recently bought the Ultra 2024 I find that its really useful, well, as its designed, however, I hear that this Harder and Steenbeck airbrush is better if you want to do this, and that airbrush is better for that etc etc.
Would you be able to either point me to a video, or make a video explaining what each particular airbrush in your range is best for? ie I have my ultra 2024, when should I buy an Evolution, or an Infinity etc
Thank you for sharing
Our pleasure Howard!
Please keep up this great content guys. Getting some solid tips on how to better master the airbrush.
Thanks Curt!
The food dye tip is great, will have to try that
We like an easy life :-)
I’m learning so much from your videos. You have made my time painting so much more enjoyable.
Ah that's great to hear! Thank you for commenting! W
Terrific.More please.
HI Simon - thanks so much - more planned :-)
Awesome content. Super educational for a beginner!!
Thank you very much!
Man, these videos are just great.
Great to hear that they are helpful! W
Thanks for a another really helpful video. The food dye idea is a revelation 😁. Cheers Keith
What a partnership - we provided a revelation to someone who has "enigmatic" in their handle. Nice!
Need an explanation on how to properly thin paints that aren’t made for the airbrush. Like citadel acrylic
Hey there - hate to hear myself say this out loud, as they don't have a thinner specific for this, but the Vallejo thinner works well, at approx 3:1 i.e. 3 drops thinner, 1 drop paint :-)
Even the airbrush, like the work vehicles, must be listened to.
Great tips
Another very informative and helpful video! Thank you! I'm planning to make several primed 30cm x 30cm test panels in different colors so I can confirm I have the right mix before spraying the model. You need to do some videos with new airbrushers so we can learn from their mistakes and your guidance.
The video with new airbrushers idea is cool...Thank you!
Thank you 🙃
I could listen to this wisdom all night long. H&S podcast is something I would listen too…while painting
Tell my kids :-) and to be serious, yes, we have plans to have some really awesome conversations with incredible people in the future. There are MANY absolutely fascinating people in our airbrush world!!!
@@harderairbrush Did I just read „The Airbrush Round Table featuring Marco Frisoni, Angel Giraldez, El Minaturista and Squidmar“? I think I read that right ;)
Looking forward to new content.
Can you imagine that video? I don't know how we'd fit all the make-up artists and hair stylists in one room.
@@harderairbrush Maybe make it like a video series? With changing focused per talk/episodes on hardware or techniques and bring the people together? I‘d certainly watch that. Or totally crazy idea. Make it in Grand Tour/Clarkson Farm Style :D You as a veteran and a total noob on the airbrush try different airbrush domains with several experts?
Strain your paints every time. It just works
Nothing wrong with doing that buddy - 100%
The sound is like spitting versus a clean whistle. Or a pulsation versus a consistent monotone.
The reason why I can not paint with head-/earphones is because I listen to the paint and pressure.
Word.
Great - hope it helps - I'm sure it will!
I have to buy a new car… that said, I’m going to buy a H&S as soon as I can. It’s this kind of marketing that sold me on this brand. You didn’t say if “have a H&S airbrush” but you said “there’s a lot of good airbrushs out there.” It’s upfront marketing, and something you don’t see enough of. I appreciate that, but I do have a kid on the way, and my hobbies are going to have to take a back seat.
👌🏻
Ich wäre euch so dankbar wenn ich eure Film auch in Deutsch bringen würdet.
Ja, sicher, Jens. Hast du es mit den RUclips-Untertiteln versucht? Du findest sie unter dem Reiter "Einstellungen" für jedes Video... Wir haben sie überprüft und sie sind auf Deutsch gar nicht so schlecht...
@@harderairbrush ach daran hab ich noch gar nicht gedacht. Vielen Dank für den Tipp.