Make sure you’re cutting off the paint flow before you’re stopping the airflow. It’ll take some time to get the muscle memory down for it but it should help you immensely with that tip dry issue you’re having. Essentially, when you let go of the trigger entirely, you’re letting paint stop at the tip. Cutting off the supply of the paint before the air means you never have a time where paint is sitting on the needle for prolonged periods. This is one of the main benefits of having a dual-action trigger. Hope this helps!
Your silly putty tip has saved me so much time. I have been looking at getting an airbrush for under and base coats, and to start practicing stuff like OSL. Thanks for the time you put into these videos, it is appreciated.
Glad to see this & after a bunch of vids from Vince Venturella I feel I'm ready to get started with airbrushes (especially the Vince cleaning video). Definitely look at ammonia free cleaners as they seem more friendly to the tool if just using acrylic stuff.
I am happy to see someone going for a two brush solution. For my miniatures I have a Workhorse (like you) with a .3 nozzle. It shoots the dirty stuff. And then a detail brush, here however I go for something much lighter than the H&S, I like to use A cup brushes. My go to is an efbe A or an the olympos micron.
I have an airbrush which I haven't really been able to use since I don't have space for it but I always found it great for priming and basecoating. I ran alclad laquer primer and it always gave a super smooth, super thin coat that you can't really replicate with a rattlecan.
I have an HnS Ultra I used a lot like you did and burned out because of the learning curve. My partner bought me an evo for Christmas last year and having two airbrushes to share the load definitely helps.
Having a wet sponge on hand for tip dry makes it no longer an issue. (Learned that from people who airbrush for a living doing t-shirts, hats, helmets, etc.)
I find I get major dry tip on the infinity and find cleaning the .15mm tip a complete pain in the arse. I found using a mix of airbrush thinner and medium helped instead of straight airbrush thinner.
The white seals are made from teflon as introduced by Badger "back in the day", teflon is not elastic so can be worn flat over time but however is chemical resistent to most chemicals. The Badger #105 is a wise choice but note that Badger recommend a 0,5 mm. nozzle for spraying primers like Stynylrez or Mig "One Shot" (same stuff, rebranded). 😉☺️
Thank you for this, I do own an airbrush but it's the really cheap stuff ($20 airbrush). Luckily I only use AB for the same reasons you described previously (prime, base, and varnish), but watching this and the way you fixed your gun really takes away a ton of the fear I had in investing into a better AB. As always, top tier quality video!
Best Thumbnail ever! I love John Wick 2!Back on 2017 I went to see Logan at the cinema and when I came across the poster of John Wick 2 I instantly conviced (begged🤣) my friends to go and see that movie instead! Wish you the best guys! Happy new year! Thank you for your amazing tips & videos!
I always have trouble doing highlights with my airbrush. I want to try doing it with the airbrush but I usually undershot or overshoot it. Idk. Painting is such a pain sometimes.
Great video! Any chance we get your take on an “Airbrushing for beginners, start here” video? Looking to start airbrushing myself, but even with all the info out there, I’m still uncertain about things.
So I’ve had a lot of issues with my badger ghost tints tip drying and drying inside of the cup like nothing I’ve ever seen before, and I’ve never been so frustrated in my life. I’ve used water and airbrush thinner but it never seems to help. Should I be adding lots of flow improver or something?
I don't remember if I talk about glues in a video. The Glue I use is Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Glue (plastic glue), any superglue, and 5 minute epoxy for metal models.
Always interesting how much regional pricing affects even stuff like airbrushes. Here in germany (where H&S are produced) the Infinity is around $290 and the Badger Patriot around $180, both after tax.
I've heard that candies should always go on last because they bleed through your colors. Something I just took for granted without question. Your rich candy base layers however, appeared to act like any other opaque paint. This was really eye opening. I'll have to experiment myself, but you've gotten my gears are turning with new possibilities!
Many years ago I got one of those all in one Masters kits from Amazon and hated it. I had been hobby painting for over 20 years by that point, but the cheap airbrush, even with a full line of Vallejo Model Air paints clogged all the time and seemed to be more trouble to use than it was worth. I got out of the hobby entirely shortly thereafter. Since getting back in, I've been watching and reading airbrush reviews and now I have my eye on a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra. It's gets pretty good reviews and seems to be a good choice for a starter brush at a reasonable price.
Hi Jay, very informative vid! Speaking of setup for airbrushing, what's your airbrushing room like? I read everywhere that you need super ventilation otherwise the overspray will paint your walls or something. I think people make it sound way worse than it actually is, but what's your opinion on this? I've been waiting to move to a house in the summer before getting started for this reason :(
you don't have to worry about the walls but I would keep finished models or your computer a few feet away from the spraying, the spray lingers a little. I haven't found airbrushing to be overly messy but if you are really worried there are small spray booth products out there.
I'm about to move house and will have a dedicated hobby space so I'm finally planning on splashing out on an airbrush. I think this may be the most informative airbrush video I've seen as it really shows the reality of what airbrush painting is like. Out of curiosity, do you have two compressors or do you switch the air supply from one brush to another?
Hmmm, my only experience with Iwata is the NEO for Iwata which is kinda its own thing but if it's of comparable quality for FAR less money I'm sure it's the better option.
Eons: But first, lets go to a peepee break! Me: Ya good call, I'll go grab a coffee at the same time. Eons: A Patreon Plug! Me: Ohhh...mistakes were made.
That's the one I started with and it's not a bad purchase at all for learning. Mine came with a compressor and to be honest I'd recommend that whole kit for the compressor. That master airbrush will always be a work horse for priming and base coating. If you want to "upgrade" it, look up how to smooth out those rough needles that come with the master.
The reason you’re getting problems with the infinity is that you’re using water based paints. Try it with my color paints and my color levelling thinner and tell me what you think then ☺️
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Make sure you’re cutting off the paint flow before you’re stopping the airflow. It’ll take some time to get the muscle memory down for it but it should help you immensely with that tip dry issue you’re having. Essentially, when you let go of the trigger entirely, you’re letting paint stop at the tip. Cutting off the supply of the paint before the air means you never have a time where paint is sitting on the needle for prolonged periods. This is one of the main benefits of having a dual-action trigger. Hope this helps!
That's the Calistarius model isn't it? Aka Mephiston before he changed after beating the black rage? I think anyways
Your silly putty tip has saved me so much time. I have been looking at getting an airbrush for under and base coats, and to start practicing stuff like OSL. Thanks for the time you put into these videos, it is appreciated.
👏😮 I have the midrange iwata eclipse the feed is a under carriage but they make a cup that I love to use.
Do you have a regular care and feeding for your airbrush vid?
Curious as to what air compressor you use...?
No idea how I have not found this channel before.. great stuff! Also buy a tall trigger for your patriot.... AMAZING!
The "sharing my Journey" followed by "Don't stop believing" made my day x)
Glad to see this & after a bunch of vids from Vince Venturella I feel I'm ready to get started with airbrushes (especially the Vince cleaning video).
Definitely look at ammonia free cleaners as they seem more friendly to the tool if just using acrylic stuff.
You’re funny, H & S is always worth it
I am happy to see someone going for a two brush solution.
For my miniatures I have a Workhorse (like you) with a .3 nozzle. It shoots the dirty stuff.
And then a detail brush, here however I go for something much lighter than the H&S, I like to use A cup brushes. My go to is an efbe A or an the olympos micron.
I have an airbrush which I haven't really been able to use since I don't have space for it but I always found it great for priming and basecoating. I ran alclad laquer primer and it always gave a super smooth, super thin coat that you can't really replicate with a rattlecan.
Freindly tip.. use masking fluid instead of putty..this was THE game changer for me !! So fast and efficient !!
I use badgers patriot 105 and the badger sotar 20/20 (slim) I so want the h&s brush, though!
I have an HnS Ultra I used a lot like you did and burned out because of the learning curve. My partner bought me an evo for Christmas last year and having two airbrushes to share the load definitely helps.
I was using teflon on my 105 and it wasn't that good. Since I've upgraded to bee wax. It's so great to sceal the thread.
Do yourself a solid mate, get some makeup wedges..when you get tip dry, poke the AB into the makeup wedge, done.
Great advice! Thx! 👍
Having a wet sponge on hand for tip dry makes it no longer an issue. (Learned that from people who airbrush for a living doing t-shirts, hats, helmets, etc.)
I find I get major dry tip on the infinity and find cleaning the .15mm tip a complete pain in the arse. I found using a mix of airbrush thinner and medium helped instead of straight airbrush thinner.
The white seals are made from teflon as introduced by Badger "back in the day", teflon is not elastic so can be worn flat over time but however is chemical resistent to most chemicals. The Badger #105 is a wise choice but note that Badger recommend a 0,5 mm. nozzle for spraying primers like Stynylrez or Mig "One Shot" (same stuff, rebranded). 😉☺️
Thank you for this, I do own an airbrush but it's the really cheap stuff ($20 airbrush). Luckily I only use AB for the same reasons you described previously (prime, base, and varnish), but watching this and the way you fixed your gun really takes away a ton of the fear I had in investing into a better AB. As always, top tier quality video!
Thanks for this! Great informative and entertaining.
The Minitaire paint line itself is fantastic.
Thanks for sharing this info. One question though. Did you thin the inks. If so how much. Thanks again stay safe
no thinning on the inks they run just fine as is.
Very enjoyable - I came away with ' Airbrushes are quick and their graduated colours are great - but you need a brush (or two) too''
Best Thumbnail ever! I love John Wick 2!Back on 2017 I went to see Logan at the cinema and when I came across the poster of John Wick 2 I instantly conviced (begged🤣) my friends to go and see that movie instead!
Wish you the best guys! Happy new year! Thank you for your amazing tips & videos!
Both great movies, and I wouldn't have necessarily been disappointed by being swayed to see ol' Wick, but Logan hits different.
I always have trouble doing highlights with my airbrush. I want to try doing it with the airbrush but I usually undershot or overshoot it. Idk. Painting is such a pain sometimes.
Is there a kit like that for the patriot air brush? Mine could use some TLC
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Great video! Any chance we get your take on an “Airbrushing for beginners, start here” video? Looking to start airbrushing myself, but even with all the info out there, I’m still uncertain about things.
Watch angel Heraldez , I learned alot from that.
So I’ve had a lot of issues with my badger ghost tints tip drying and drying inside of the cup like nothing I’ve ever seen before, and I’ve never been so frustrated in my life. I’ve used water and airbrush thinner but it never seems to help. Should I be adding lots of flow improver or something?
Awesome videos. Did you talk about types of glues in one of your videos? I could swear that i saw one before, and now i can’t find it anywhere.
I don't remember if I talk about glues in a video. The Glue I use is Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Glue (plastic glue), any superglue, and 5 minute epoxy for metal models.
Always interesting how much regional pricing affects even stuff like airbrushes.
Here in germany (where H&S are produced) the Infinity is around $290 and the Badger Patriot around $180, both after tax.
Your armor effect looks amazing! I plan to use it on my Thousand sons :)
I picked up the cault of paint Infinity and it is an upgrade on the og infinity
I've heard that candies should always go on last because they bleed through your colors. Something I just took for granted without question. Your rich candy base layers however, appeared to act like any other opaque paint. This was really eye opening. I'll have to experiment myself, but you've gotten my gears are turning with new possibilities!
yes! the ghost tint paints seem to be colors with a lot of gloss medium to thin them without losing the body of the paint.
In Germany, the Badger 105 is now priced in the same class as the mid-range devices from H+S...😮
Woah! Great model! Will you make a airbrush station?
Thanks, this encouraged me to get back at it
14:50 that was awesome lol
One game changer for me was Vallejo flow improver!!!
Many years ago I got one of those all in one Masters kits from Amazon and hated it. I had been hobby painting for over 20 years by that point, but the cheap airbrush, even with a full line of Vallejo Model Air paints clogged all the time and seemed to be more trouble to use than it was worth. I got out of the hobby entirely shortly thereafter. Since getting back in, I've been watching and reading airbrush reviews and now I have my eye on a Harder & Steenbeck Ultra. It's gets pretty good reviews and seems to be a good choice for a starter brush at a reasonable price.
Can't wait for your channel to blow up, your content is always solid and helpful.
Iwata Eclipse Hp-cs. $175, runs a decade before swapping parts, as good as the $300+ brushes.
Hi Jay, very informative vid! Speaking of setup for airbrushing, what's your airbrushing room like? I read everywhere that you need super ventilation otherwise the overspray will paint your walls or something. I think people make it sound way worse than it actually is, but what's your opinion on this?
I've been waiting to move to a house in the summer before getting started for this reason :(
you don't have to worry about the walls but I would keep finished models or your computer a few feet away from the spraying, the spray lingers a little. I haven't found airbrushing to be overly messy but if you are really worried there are small spray booth products out there.
@@EonsOfBattle yep, don’t do what I did and leave a black mini sitting around while spraying Vallejo copper...
I HAD A BABY BROTHER, AND HE WAS 7:45
I'm about to move house and will have a dedicated hobby space so I'm finally planning on splashing out on an airbrush. I think this may be the most informative airbrush video I've seen as it really shows the reality of what airbrush painting is like. Out of curiosity, do you have two compressors or do you switch the air supply from one brush to another?
only 1 compressor, but I bought 2 quick disconnects one for each brush so I can easily switch the air hose between the two.
@ 5:51 on the airbrush cup: FACE! :D
How does that Infinity compare to an Iwata (which most pro airbrushers use)?
Hmmm, my only experience with Iwata is the NEO for Iwata which is kinda its own thing but if it's of comparable quality for FAR less money I'm sure it's the better option.
What red did you use there? Cause it looks like a mighty fine red I have to say
it was red ink, Liquitex Pyrrole Red
love from india
Eons: But first, lets go to a peepee break!
Me: Ya good call, I'll go grab a coffee at the same time.
Eons: A Patreon Plug!
Me: Ohhh...mistakes were made.
You could of just used your patriot for the fine details too , I found out that rocking the trigger will get your paint where you want it .
Holy shit what a thumbnail
Anyone know if the 25 dollar master airbrush is ok to use ?...I know u get what u pay for ..but is there much difference?
That's the one I started with and it's not a bad purchase at all for learning. Mine came with a compressor and to be honest I'd recommend that whole kit for the compressor. That master airbrush will always be a work horse for priming and base coating. If you want to "upgrade" it, look up how to smooth out those rough needles that come with the master.
Hardcore Goobertown Hobbies vibes here.
Like and comment to appease the almighty algorithm
14:50 😂
I thought the Iwata was the end all be all off air brushes
its pretty expensive tho
Uhhh... what is a space brain librarian?
75 bucks is my kinda airbrush.
*Press x to doubt*
The reason you’re getting problems with the infinity is that you’re using water based paints. Try it with my color paints and my color levelling thinner and tell me what you think then ☺️
Oh boy, don't just poke yourself to test the needle. I once poked myself by accident and it bent the needletip right away. Those things are sensitive
luckily my baby smooth skin is no danger to a stainless steel needle.