I rewatch these videos as Vince's teaching style is the same as my favourite Jr. High/ High school teachers. A respite from the insanity of the modern world.
I've consumed ALL of the airbrush tutorials today. I absolutely adored this one. It's not just informative but confidence-building. I don't know if it's the aggregate of all the videos I've seen or this one in particular but I actually feel prepared to bust out the airbrush I got as a birthday present that's been sitting under my desk for 8 months. Hell, I'm eager to do so after watching this breakdown and actually think I'm capable of really utilizing it. Thanks, Vince. You're a true patrician.
Agreed. I've watched most airbrush miniature-painting-tutorials and this is one of the most helpful out there. However, calling it "Ultimate guide" is stretching it way too far. I know he made more videos but he should have numbered them like: "Ultimate guide to the Airbrush 1, 2, 3, 4" etc. - Like what other equipment should i get? - And what about: "Before first use, do this". If you buy a new airbrush Always pick it apart as much as possible. Clean it. Everywhere. Use mini pipe cleaners. Then lubricate the surfaces where the o-rings sit with Glycerin and then "massage" the o-rings between your fingers and lubricate them with Glycerin. Put them back and shoot some paint thinner through with full air throttle to clear out any excess lube. Most paints have Glycerin added as a thinner so while Glycerin is pretty much less harmless to most paints, Never Ever use silicone oil on the o-rings in an airbrush, which is otherwise the standard lube for o-rings. Silicone oil/grease creeps and spreads like a plague over every surface and if micro-traces of it passes through the nozzle it will kill your paint cause it usually dissolve acrylic paint, among other things.
I recently re-watched this video after having a frustrating Sunday trying to get back to newbie airbrushing after a long hiatus. The 80/20 mix put into the cup first (among all the other tips) is like a magic elixir. But its not magic, it's Vince's common sense and teaching that makes it work! So far I have sprayed and cleaned two colors back to back, and no jams. Thank you, Vince!
I got back into warhammer for the first time since I was a kid at the begeinning of Covid and can’t believe I’m just now finding your videos. Lots of other great RUclipsrs but you are hands down the most informative, thanks for all the tips and info!
Can also recommend Harder and Steenbeck's Ultra 2 in 1 as a great starter airbrush if you live in Europe. It's very good for the price and interchangable with more expensive parts so you can upgrade it. I still use it even though I upgraded to an Evolution. Another little tip is that once you inevitably have to get a new needle, keep the old one (provided it's not bent or broken completely). You can use it to easily clear the nozzle.
Ultra is not bad (especially cleaning it, it's like 5 mins of work tops), but I didn't really like the trigger after using it for half a year, mainly regarding vertical, airflow control. You can try adjusting it, but I could never get it just right. Infinity, for over 3x the price, resolves that issue, but well, that's not exactly the solution.
@@Elfhelm Silverline, Evolution, and Infinity share the same main body. So, if the Infinity is too expensive for one's taste, either Silverline or Evolution is a choice.
As somebody who's been airbrushing miniatures for several years now this is still great to go back over some of the basics that you forget and even just to see some really nice high end technique as well. Really enjoying the new video quality, really bringing it up another level!
It is not often I finish a video and felt it was absolutely useful with no time wasted. Thank you Sir for this high quality material. It will make a difference.
A timely video for me, as I've got several large dragons in my queue for this winter and was planning on really grinding my airbrush skills as I work them through. Thanks Vince! And those lightning wings are fricking cool....
Me too! Have two dragons "in queue" and 3 coming Tuesday!🤣. I am POSITIVE Vince won't mind me sharing this Squidmar video, but if you're doing Dragons, I GUARANTEE you'll appreciate the link I'm sharing. The title is something about "free hand", but it's actually about AMAZING dragon wings in an easy way (comes out like "Richard Grey" style, I had no idea how HIGH level painters got that until I ran across this!😁🐲💜). PS: Squidmar's "guest artist" starts the wings with airbrush!! ruclips.net/video/IoKDaQpCggM/видео.html
I was given my first airbrush by a buddy who never did air brushing 3 years ago. I still have that brush and it’s my base coat and priming brush. It’s a $25 Now I have a badger renegade and it’s great for everything. I’m still learning how to get moving with it since I’ve mostly only airbrushed for covering a larger area, and priming inside when it’s cold out. Thanks for this video!! This will help a lot and keep me up and up
Even though i`m not a total noob in airbrushing anymore, the thing I struggled the most with was the correct thinning of my paints. I can`t thank you enough Mr. V. for the 80/20 Vallejo thinner/flow improver ratio suggestion. I mixed myself a small bottle and tested through this weekend - it`s been a game-changer for me! Even some of the chalkier and clunky colors I struggled with before (like palid wych flesh) now turned into smth workable. Thank you for the HC series, good sir! :)
So glad you made this video! I'm getting super inspired by Marco's lighting effects but his videos expect a better mastery of the airbrush than I currently have
This video is the best, most helpful video about airbrushing. I went from only priming and hating it and clogging constantly to actually enjoying using the airbrush and getting all of my base tones down on things. Thank you so much Vince!
When I started getting to using an Airbrush, I instantly scooped up a Iwata HP-CS but I had studied intensively before using it 1. I should state, people need to study on cleaning and keeping to the rule of working in 1-2 minutes before doing a quick clean, just like you would with a brush. I think that's a very big thing people aren't naturally used to when starting out unless if you're extremely paranoid and constantly on it, a good pre-cursor is to put an alarm so you get the muscle memory over time 2. Always remember, put in the airflow improver and thinner into the cup first, it helps to give a small coat of protection inside the airbrush before painting. It's also good to mix your paints in a separate cup first before pouring it into the airbrush so you can check consistency. Yes, you can mix it straight into your airbrush cup but you're at risk of paint drying inside the cup especially if you're not used to point no.1 as I've stated 3. Always test your paints on a surface or water color paper, this also means testing your PSI and seeing what works for your mix or specific paints. It will help prevent spider-webbing and allow you to troubleshoot and learn how your airbrush works 4. It can be a pain when it comes to practice, but it is necessary. It is always the same case with even brush work. It is understandable that you may not have a test model to work with but that's why having water color paper on hand 5. I kept to these rules personally and I've kept my airbrush's longevity really well due to following these rules. I've had the needle stuck and spider webbing before but they're easy to troubleshoot when you know why your airbrush is doing that. Remember, treat your airbrush really well and it will give you results the better upkeep you do with it
Thank you for another high quality video Vince, please continue on your "Ultimate Guides" of instructional content- practical, to the point, and very timely.
You’re the best, Vince! I really only paint 28mm dark age historical models with not much detail, so I haven’t incorporated the airbrush much past priming. The models just seem too small to get much benefit. I wish there were more videos about doing these types of figures; I know they’re not as popular, but it would help to see how pros approach smaller, more “boring” figures and how to make them look great in an efficient way. Thanks again for all you do!
The eclipse is great and my go to workhorse brush. It will get you 90% there with most models and has served me well for many years. I recently upgraded to the Iwata Micron but will continue to keep my eclipse on standby for priming, varnishing and all that good stuff. Invest in a well made airbrush and you will always find uses for it. Even if you eventually upgrade.
Thanks as always Vincey V!!! Tabletop wargamer for 35 years and I use your content like my library for my hobby. Can't believe you don't have 100k subs yet, so deserve it.
Vince your content is great. It’s under served by your sound setup. Might be worth looking into or reaching out to fellow RUclipsrs who have crispy perfect sound. Keep up the great work
Thank you for mentioning the ratio of paint to thinner, i had some abysmal results with my new airbrush and i could pinpoint it to overthinning my paint. Thanks!
Beautiful, I appreciate you explained that the airbrush is a tool and not an ends mean to all painting tricks. I had no idea you could glazing with the airbrush too!
Thanks Vince! Ive been using my airbrushes for about 2 years now so this was a nice refresher on all the basics. Stuff like this really helps out when you're just starting out! Love the paint job too, as per usual. Your stuff always is on point!!
I picked up an Iwata NEO about a year ago. And while I have used it, I haven't used it as much as I'd like to... This has been largely because of me not having the experience and knowledge about thinning paints for the airbrush, what PSI to use and how to quickly clean the airbrush and change colors. You have helped me Immensly with all of the above Vince, so I would like to thank you for that
Great video Vince! some really good points for all levels. Personally from experience now I think more importantly than a good airbrush first is a good compressor. 3L tank, water trap, and many of these come with a basic airbrush. the initial compressor I had didn't have a tank, causing the air to start to become hot after a period of use, which lead to the air cooling in the hose, forming water droplets, and then spluttering with the paint. I had no idea what the problem was for a long time as it would start to happen about 40mins in. Drove me nuts. Ended up finding out the issue and got a new compressor, followed by a new Iwata.
19:25 I agree. I use 99% IPA for cleaning my airbrush all the time. It's like literary 10 times cheaper than Airbrush Cleaner. Word of warning. Don't let it soak too long, because it will effect the alloy down in the cup. Not sure if that will cause any issues long term, but definitely something I have noticed and others have experienced as well.
So about 9 months ago I bought myself an Airbrush and Compressor. I may have not followed your advice an bought a top of the H&S Infinity CR plus 2 in 1 Airbrush kit and the Sparmax duel outlets Compressor. However being as I've done construction for decades and understand how to be very careful with fine tools, I'm not that overly worried about using them and breaking them. So far I've only done priming with them and found them to be such a helpful tool. But then again I been so busy as of late I've not done any brush painting since I got them. Maybe my work load will taper off some in the near future and I'll be to try out many of things that you covered in this video with my 'new' toy. As always thank you for all of your wonderful and helpful information.
I have same model. If you're up to it, catch yourself a commission or buy a large miniature (e.g. car, airplane, etc.) This way you're getting your moneys value in comparable short time
@@naphaneal - It's not like I don't have a backlog of models to build, base, prime and paint. I have over 2,000 points of Death Guard plus Mortarion in my pile of shame along with at least 1,500 points of Necrons plus The Silent King and Void Dragon. I've simply not had the time to paint due to work being so busy. The few times I've had a small window of time it has been stupidly hot where I live in Southern California. But with winter soon to be here... the good painting weather and temperatures hopefully come with it!
Vince, great video; however, I think this video in particular is one of your best. As somebody who is about to start using airbrush for the first time, I think this is the best video I've come across for a beginner. It approaches airbrush in a practical way, and covers all of the most effective ways to start using this new tool without going too deep into specific techniques. Bravo, sir! And thanks as always.
thanks for the video, and the explanation. could you by any chance make a step by step tutorial how to make those lightnings on the wings. they are awesome and I could apply them on more then wings. thanks keep up the good work.
I picked up the $80 cheapo set that Jon showed off recently. Used that for a few weeks and just picked up the Master compressor/airbrush set and the HP CS. The $80 cheapo one was enough to let me know I wanted to invest, but oh my goodness the HP CS and real compressor is so much better. Still getting the hang of pressure/thinning/distance/trigger control, but it's so good. I should have done this years ago....
@@VinceVenturella if you could also shed some light on varnishing with an Airbrush, it would be most appreciated! Does thinning down the varnish make it less effective? Do I have to do multiple coats? Many thanks in advance!
Hi Vince, I really appreciate everything you do - no-nonsense perfect advice I know I can alwats trust. You are one of the few people who also suggest beginners using airbrush which I think is a good idea - especially for priming! So much healthier to stay away from those solvent spray cans too
Just want to Comment and say thank you. Took my first big jump into using my airbrush today And primed 10 models with. i Know it seems small but i've been Freighted to use ever since i got n September but thanks to this video and other you have on channel, i final took that step used it, so big thank you again with out video likes these i do not think i would of ever worked courage to try it
15:20 That is why I only use Thinner for inks (while sometimes using some Flow Improver for regular acrylics). They won't cause glogs, so might as well have the benefit of drying faster with only Thinner as a.... thinner ;)
To all soon to be Airbrushusers. As a learned carpainter and Wargamer I use Airguns-/-brushes daily. The amount of necessary cleaning is a fact to consider, if you u want enjoyable hobby-/-worktime and results. Great guide from VV ...
thanx as i just airbrushed for the first time lastnight with a cheap airbrush i had major clogging issues till my trigger went down the drain ugh , good thing i got one more grav fed to use , thanks for this vid it helps alot
This video was excellent - very thorough, clear, and matter-of-fact. I've been using an airbrush for well over 10 years, but I consider myself only... 'All Right™' with it. I definitely got a few answers to things that frustrate me - this was worth not only a like, but also a subscribe. :)
Amazing dragon! The colours are beautiful. But more than the paintjob, the conversion is much better than the "box" version. Can you show us how you did the conversion?
The lightening effect in the wings is incredible. I know you’ve done a lightening video or something like it before but would you maybe do something on how you achieved that effect in the wings?
It's not too complicated, but effectively, paint the bolt a bright white, glaze a white around it witht he airbrush, glaze up against it with a blue tone, run a little white down the bolt, then use the airbrush and white to make some focus spots. I'll add it to the list for a future video.
@@VinceVenturella your clear description sounds way simpler than it looks! I don’t own an airbrush, but I imagine the effect is still achievable…with more futzing 🤪-thank you for considering!
Excellent video. One addition: bubbles in the cap can also occur with airbrushes with removable cups, if the cup is not screwed in airtight. It drove me nuts with my H&S.
I got an amazing deal on an eclipse bottle feed from hobby lobby I use for priming. Damaged box or something 20 dollars. Then I picked up a neo gravity fed for 30 bucks at Michaels. Keep an eye out deals and airbrushes can be pretty affordable.
Thanks for all your amazing videos Vince! Is there one of those where you talk about generic guidelines to use safely an airbrush (mask, ventilation etc)?
Not really, but I should include that in a video, that being said, you pretty much have it. That's pretty much it with acrylic paint, a good mask and some venthilation will cover you.
I ran out of airbrush thinner the other day and instead used Jo Sonja’s “medium magic mix” to thin down the paints. It seemed to work fantastically and not once did the nozzle clog, which I attribute to the retarder medium in the mix. I would recommend trying it out.
Been airbrushing for a few years now, but this was a nice refresher course and I even learned a couple things. I never thought to combine the Vallejo thinner and flow improver into a custom mix like that, so I'm definitely going to try it.
Great airbrush how-to! Something I'd really like to see in a future video (or even as a product for sale) is a cross-brand paint set that you would approve of. Everyone says that different brands have different colors that work better or worse, so which colors from Vallejo do you recommend? P3? Reaper? AK? Citadel? Who else? What exact bottle of paint does Vince reach for when he needs wash specific color? I would pay good money for a hand picked assortment of a few dozen individual paints that Vince Venturella is willing to say are his preferred version of each color.
inks from Schmincke, Liquitex, Dalor Rowney, or Windsor Newton go smoothly through every airbrush without needing much tweeking with thinners. Other than that, paint wise every brand can be used in an airbrush, with the right amount of thinning.
Hello Vince! I've checked out many of your videos and love your passion for teaching us tips and tricks and philosophy behind colours and motivation. I'm definitely no expert in airbrushing, but I believe I've got some clues on paint thinning and the general ropes. I have an airbrush question though that I hope you can answer: I have an Iwata Eclipse HPCS and use your 20/80mix of flow improver and thinner but when I want to paint details and go close to the model and paint medium sized details, like the belly on my saurus warriors, the airbrush stutters. I can paint small/thin lines but not consistent; the paint stops and I have to aim the brush to the side and blast it on full force to rinse the nozzle, then I can paint a small line again, for like 1 second before it stops again. I have tried to practically dillute the paint to water consistency but no luck. I have tried different pressure but nothing works. PSI over 25 isn't practical when doing detail work. I bought a new compressor with a tank and a water trap to attach to the airbrush, no luck. This frustrated me and I thought the Iwata was defective... So I bought an Infinity, to rule that out and even though I find the Infinity a bit more high end with a nicer trigger with better feel for the air, the problem with the small "brush stream" prevails. I believe this is because the low pressure and puny air/paint stream makes it so the paint clogges more easily, but I see on your videos that it is indeed possible to keep a "moderate stream" for a fairly long time, at least for several seconds. So therefore I come before you, is this normal and something I'll have to live with or should I buy more airbrushes?
So this is a pretty classic case of dry tip. You might be in a very dry climate, so your paint might be drying quickly. You want to make sure you are cleaning the tip regularly with a wet brush. You also might want to keep the nozzle clean, the little brass nozzle can have some subtle build up inside and it can then make dry tip more common. You need a needle scraping tool to clean that out. Worst case, you can always try a little drying retardent in the thinner/flow improver mix.
@@VinceVenturella I tried the other day, to add a bit drying retarder in the mixture and I believe I have remedied the problems. Got to test some more but it definitely got better.
Nice video as always Vince. One question and one comment: 1. Question - there exists a line of thought that the airbrush thinner actually makes the paints dry out a lot quicker (leading to more dry-tip), so some users swear by only using airbrush flow improver - have you ever found that to be the case? 2. One tip - if you use the fluid cup lid (that came with the airbrush), it will greatly reduce the paint from drying out inside the airbrush fluid cup - reducing things like clogs, etc for new users.
The thinner will make it dry faster, because it will evaporate more quickly than the water and medium in the paint, but that is why I have flow improver in my mix, that slows the drying process. :)
I like the advise of Sam Lentz(at least I believe it was Sam) that you should keep the whole airbrush in a mason jar of dilute thinner when not in use. It is hard to get your airbrush dried out with paint if it never gets dry.
that seems extreme to me, I just rinse out really well every time, never had an issue in years. once a year or so I disassemble and clean everything out, but its mostly just paint dried on the side of the cup, nothing to impede use.
Really informative amazing stuff. Vince thank you a lot for all your vids. First dragon I'll make with my new airbrush will be made to your honor. You are the boss. Thank you again. Now i feel prepared to start with my airbrush.
@@VinceVenturella all your painting tips and insights help. You are a community hero. I was so pleased to see your dragon on WarCom and had a feeling that was one of your secret projects you were working on.
Hello, Vince! It is me again… In a few short days my first airbrush will arrive. I watched many of your vids to be prepared. I exceptionally noted how i want to clean my airbrush watching you. Buuuuut…. I chose the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024, because i think that's the right learning tool for me. (I couldnt bring myself to buy cheaper. "Buying cheap means buying twice" is a saying here…) I watched Warricks own Video on the workflow and now i don't know how to clean. I cannot pinch the air nozzle of the Ultra 2024 to backup the air flow to mix paint in the cup or clean between paints. Warrick sprays everything out to the front, but you said NEVER to do this… Also he uses an old bent needle to stir in the cup. But won't that scratch the inside? I bought makeup sponges and will try to backup the air flow with that. Do you think, this might work? Do you habe other tips for me material-wise? Especially for mixing in the cup? Thaaaank you!
@@VinceVenturellahey! I sprayed my first basics. The compressor is at about 30 psi. Learning with the Ultra2024 comes along. Backflow is working with a thick sponge. I am using Vallejo Foundations and army painter fanatic paints. I use your 4-1 Thinner-Flower-Mix and i thin accoirding to your ratios. Buuuuut: i am getting dry tip really fast with every medium. Do you have an idea, what the problem is? Could it be that i am using too much alcohol in cleaning? Also i cant seem to get the airbrush fully clean by backlogging and dumping. Can you help?
@@benjaminlenert8768 SO with primer, its a good idea to have some 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean your airbrush just like the water you see here. With the dry tip, it's likely your local humidity, you can get a small desk humidifier, that being said you could also try adding just a little drying retardent to the mix.
@@VinceVenturella Hello! Drying retardent from Vallejo arrives and it helps. It has a gel like consistency which is a bit weird to mix in. Should i add that to the regular thinner-flower-mix (and in which ratio?) or should i add that separately each time? Thanks again!
If you look at the safety sheets for the Flow Improver and Thinner, you get the impression that they are more the same then most people realize. I think that is also why some people swear by using one over the other and visa versa. That would not make sense if they would be quite dissimilar. I like Thinner more, because I am more bothered by paint not drying fast enough on the model (and getting spiders) then I am with stuff like dry tip or getting paint dried somewhere else in the airbrush.
I've found that badger airbrushes are very begginer friendly since theres no rubber seals(except maybe in the trigger mechanism) and the nozzle is relitivley large so I found it a lot easier to clean then my amazon iwata knockoff.
Two additional ways of altering the cone is by how close/far you are from you model and also how high your pressure is. The cone is much more narrow at 35 PSI compared to 25. EDIT: apologies for the spam, but love our interactions and feeding the algorithm ain't bad either ;)
I just ordered my first Airbrush, compressor and well everything else as well :-) well worth it used my Christmas bonus to get it and still have some left so woop woop.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks bud :-) got a good quality but inexpensive airbrush and a really nice compressor that should do for good :-) as always thanks again and hope you had a nice Christmas.
Pretty awesome work, well done. I am already well versed in using the Airbrush, since I am doing scifi scale models, but am soon starting to paint some 3D printed figures, which is a totally different thing. Good to see that I can use the air brush and to what extend.
Thanks Vince it was a great video, one way that I know cleans the airbrush like nobodies business and I think is well worth investing in is a ultra sonic cleaner. That and some simply green has fixed most of my problems.
I have an ultra-sonic cleaner and it can certainly do the work, but honestly, since I started using my cleaning method in the linked video along with 99% isopropyl alcohol, I've never had the need to use the cleaner. :)
Thanks for the video, great prep as I go into starting my first big army project this weekend. For the newer Stormcast range with all of their cloaks/cloth, would you bother masking those (with silly putty as one of the earlier hobby cheating suggest) when doing the metals? I have them all zenithal primed, so don't want to waste that effort, but on the other hand all the masking would be a ton of time. Or would it be just as easy to come back in afterwards and lay down some highlights and shadows, as illustrated here, with the airbrush afterwards? Thanks again for all of the videos, they have been a fantastic help on my hobby journey.
Either could work, if you're doing both with the airbrush, you're going to mask at some point. I would likely mask the metals second and then do the cloak, it should be easier to just mask those edges around the cloak.
Hey Vince! I’ve been loving your videos, thank you for sharing all your knowledge. What psi do you have you compressor set to for paints like Pro Acryl? I thought you had mentioned you set it different than your primers, but I can’t find the video that you mentioned this in.
Vince, I have issues with my white FW ink for zenithal priming. I go a low pressure and a couple drops of thinner/improver but I get speckeling and beading of flat surfaces. Is this an issue with my settings, or the surface of the model? (primed with the same airbrush). Also, love the head swap you did for the horns. Verminlord horns, yes?
sounds like dried paint residue in the airbrush. give it a good cleaning and check the rubber rings for damage. change them, if necessary. also premix paints in dropper bottles other than in the airbrush cup.
I had exactly the same issues, I found it needs quite a lot of thinning, not just 1 or 2 drops. I am FAR from an expert but there is so much pigment in inks you can thin them quite a lot. I also went for a higher pressure rather than lower. I am still very new to using inks, but the couple of times I have tried it so far super thin worked better.
Thin inks more, you can also try turning the PSI way up, it will atomize it more, you might also have something in the nozzle, there are lots of potential issues, but check through those and it should set you in the right direction.
Very nice video.... I found it just the time I needed it... I have a Project with a D&D Mechanic Dragon which has plenty of Patches in its Wings... The only think i didnt understand is how to make highlight on my model... as I know and please correct me if I am wrong... always when we base paint have the airbrush 90 degrees to the surface we paint... and the highlights i dilute the paint and change the degrees of painting... but i didnt manage it well....whats going wrong with it... (Airbrush is Talon) thanks in advance :)
So I will say, you don't need to keep it at that angle. I am not sure of the exact figure you have, but generally, if we're talking about a large flat surface, you want to rotate the airbrush at a deeper angle and pick something about the wing to be the area the light is catching, something like the lower end of the wing or something like that. Use the shape of the cone to your advantage to create the transition. Hope that helps.
I thought you allway push the trigger down and adjust the paint while pull the trigger back, so there's always a consistent element and one which is variable
Ahh what a great conversion! I know it was a long time ago, but where did you get some of the pieces you used, like the necklace and extra armor on the arms?
I have been really trying to take advantage of my airbrush lately and your videos really help with that. Now my question is when you say you thin your paints 1-1 with thinner do you also do that for Inks and other prethinned paints? because white ink and only white ink gives me a really grainy texture. I have tried with yellow, orange, speed paints and thinned down paints and no other paint gets that grainy splotchy texture like white does
Yep, with inks and contrast and everything. Always thinner first. Now, onto your challenge, the problem here is white, most white paints are bad and it has to do with the pigment to make white. The answer is usually don't use white, use something close but isn't just white pigment (Ivory, buff, w/e), I really don't spray pure white through my airbrush other than an occasional white ink or white primer from Stynelrez.
I rewatch these videos as Vince's teaching style is the same as my favourite Jr. High/ High school teachers. A respite from the insanity of the modern world.
Same!
I've consumed ALL of the airbrush tutorials today. I absolutely adored this one. It's not just informative but confidence-building. I don't know if it's the aggregate of all the videos I've seen or this one in particular but I actually feel prepared to bust out the airbrush I got as a birthday present that's been sitting under my desk for 8 months. Hell, I'm eager to do so after watching this breakdown and actually think I'm capable of really utilizing it.
Thanks, Vince. You're a true patrician.
Always happy to help brother. :)
Agreed. I've watched most airbrush miniature-painting-tutorials and this is one of the most helpful out there. However, calling it "Ultimate guide" is stretching it way too far. I know he made more videos but he should have numbered them like: "Ultimate guide to the Airbrush 1, 2, 3, 4" etc.
- Like what other equipment should i get?
- And what about: "Before first use, do this". If you buy a new airbrush Always pick it apart as much as possible. Clean it. Everywhere. Use mini pipe cleaners. Then lubricate the surfaces where the o-rings sit with Glycerin and then "massage" the o-rings between your fingers and lubricate them with Glycerin. Put them back and shoot some paint thinner through with full air throttle to clear out any excess lube.
Most paints have Glycerin added as a thinner so while Glycerin is pretty much less harmless to most paints, Never Ever use silicone oil on the o-rings in an airbrush, which is otherwise the standard lube for o-rings. Silicone oil/grease creeps and spreads like a plague over every surface and if micro-traces of it passes through the nozzle it will kill your paint cause it usually dissolve acrylic paint, among other things.
I recently re-watched this video after having a frustrating Sunday trying to get back to newbie airbrushing after a long hiatus. The 80/20 mix put into the cup first (among all the other tips) is like a magic elixir. But its not magic, it's Vince's common sense and teaching that makes it work! So far I have sprayed and cleaned two colors back to back, and no jams. Thank you, Vince!
I've been really enjoying the new format with more direct-to-camera shots. Great stuff as always, Vince!
Same
Agreed, I'm glad to see people doing tutorials and such again. A lot of people are "mini=tainment" now, and not so much learning anymore.
Awesome, thank you! I will always focus on the teaching, but this is a nice format to also share some of my thoughts. :)
Vince, you are the bomb! every time I wanna learn about something mini painting related, you have an awesome video with best delivery. THANK YOU.
I got back into warhammer for the first time since I was a kid at the begeinning of Covid and can’t believe I’m just now finding your videos. Lots of other great RUclipsrs but you are hands down the most informative, thanks for all the tips and info!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Having finally got a cheap airbrush, I can finally view these videos with more than mere curiosity. Makes them even better :)
Awesome.
Currently setting up a booth and my aircompressor to prime the first time ever this way. Thank you Vince
Can also recommend Harder and Steenbeck's Ultra 2 in 1 as a great starter airbrush if you live in Europe. It's very good for the price and interchangable with more expensive parts so you can upgrade it. I still use it even though I upgraded to an Evolution.
Another little tip is that once you inevitably have to get a new needle, keep the old one (provided it's not bent or broken completely). You can use it to easily clear the nozzle.
I love my Silverline.
Good tips. :)
Ultra is not bad (especially cleaning it, it's like 5 mins of work tops), but I didn't really like the trigger after using it for half a year, mainly regarding vertical, airflow control. You can try adjusting it, but I could never get it just right.
Infinity, for over 3x the price, resolves that issue, but well, that's not exactly the solution.
@@Elfhelm Silverline, Evolution, and Infinity share the same main body. So, if the Infinity is too expensive for one's taste, either Silverline or Evolution is a choice.
As somebody who's been airbrushing miniatures for several years now this is still great to go back over some of the basics that you forget and even just to see some really nice high end technique as well. Really enjoying the new video quality, really bringing it up another level!
Glad it was helpful!
It is not often I finish a video and felt it was absolutely useful with no time wasted.
Thank you Sir for this high quality material.
It will make a difference.
Always happy to help :)
Was so exited when from all the beautiful dragon paintings on Warhammer Community site I liked Vince's one the most :D Great job!
Thank you so much 😀
Vince is my favorite artist for miniature painting. Articulate explanations of various techniques
Thank you! Always happy to help. :)
A timely video for me, as I've got several large dragons in my queue for this winter and was planning on really grinding my airbrush skills as I work them through. Thanks Vince! And those lightning wings are fricking cool....
Me too! Have two dragons "in queue" and 3 coming Tuesday!🤣. I am POSITIVE Vince won't mind me sharing this Squidmar video, but if you're doing Dragons, I GUARANTEE you'll appreciate the link I'm sharing. The title is something about "free hand", but it's actually about AMAZING dragon wings in an easy way (comes out like "Richard Grey" style, I had no idea how HIGH level painters got that until I ran across this!😁🐲💜). PS: Squidmar's "guest artist" starts the wings with airbrush!!
ruclips.net/video/IoKDaQpCggM/видео.html
Thank you and always happy to help. :)
I was given my first airbrush by a buddy who never did air brushing 3 years ago. I still have that brush and it’s my base coat and priming brush. It’s a $25
Now I have a badger renegade and it’s great for everything. I’m still learning how to get moving with it since I’ve mostly only airbrushed for covering a larger area, and priming inside when it’s cold out.
Thanks for this video!! This will help a lot and keep me up and up
Always happy to help.
As always your videos are amazing and informative. Especially love your use of “extreme deltas”.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video. Always informative
Even though i`m not a total noob in airbrushing anymore, the thing I struggled the most with was the correct thinning of my paints. I can`t thank you enough Mr. V. for the 80/20 Vallejo thinner/flow improver ratio suggestion. I mixed myself a small bottle and tested through this weekend - it`s been a game-changer for me! Even some of the chalkier and clunky colors I struggled with before (like palid wych flesh) now turned into smth workable. Thank you for the HC series, good sir! :)
Always happy to help. :)
So glad you made this video! I'm getting super inspired by Marco's lighting effects but his videos expect a better mastery of the airbrush than I currently have
Always happy to help. :)
This video is the best, most helpful video about airbrushing. I went from only priming and hating it and clogging constantly to actually enjoying using the airbrush and getting all of my base tones down on things. Thank you so much Vince!
Glad it helped!
@@VinceVenturella well it was this paired with HC213 how to clean your airbrush fast!
When I started getting to using an Airbrush, I instantly scooped up a Iwata HP-CS but I had studied intensively before using it
1. I should state, people need to study on cleaning and keeping to the rule of working in 1-2 minutes before doing a quick clean, just like you would with a brush. I think that's a very big thing people aren't naturally used to when starting out unless if you're extremely paranoid and constantly on it, a good pre-cursor is to put an alarm so you get the muscle memory over time
2. Always remember, put in the airflow improver and thinner into the cup first, it helps to give a small coat of protection inside the airbrush before painting. It's also good to mix your paints in a separate cup first before pouring it into the airbrush so you can check consistency. Yes, you can mix it straight into your airbrush cup but you're at risk of paint drying inside the cup especially if you're not used to point no.1 as I've stated
3. Always test your paints on a surface or water color paper, this also means testing your PSI and seeing what works for your mix or specific paints. It will help prevent spider-webbing and allow you to troubleshoot and learn how your airbrush works
4. It can be a pain when it comes to practice, but it is necessary. It is always the same case with even brush work. It is understandable that you may not have a test model to work with but that's why having water color paper on hand
5. I kept to these rules personally and I've kept my airbrush's longevity really well due to following these rules. I've had the needle stuck and spider webbing before but they're easy to troubleshoot when you know why your airbrush is doing that. Remember, treat your airbrush really well and it will give you results the better upkeep you do with it
Thank you for another high quality video Vince, please continue on your "Ultimate Guides" of instructional content- practical, to the point, and very timely.
100% :)
You’re the best, Vince! I really only paint 28mm dark age historical models with not much detail, so I haven’t incorporated the airbrush much past priming. The models just seem too small to get much benefit. I wish there were more videos about doing these types of figures; I know they’re not as popular, but it would help to see how pros approach smaller, more “boring” figures and how to make them look great in an efficient way. Thanks again for all you do!
Always happy to help. :)
The eclipse is great and my go to workhorse brush. It will get you 90% there with most models and has served me well for many years. I recently upgraded to the Iwata Micron but will continue to keep my eclipse on standby for priming, varnishing and all that good stuff. Invest in a well made airbrush and you will always find uses for it. Even if you eventually upgrade.
Totally agree.
You know everytime I watch one of your videos it reminds me how crappy I am and how I really need to improve on my game your stuff is always amazing!
We are all on our own journey. :)
Thanks as always Vincey V!!! Tabletop wargamer for 35 years and I use your content like my library for my hobby. Can't believe you don't have 100k subs yet, so deserve it.
Thank you!
Vince your content is great. It’s under served by your sound setup. Might be worth looking into or reaching out to fellow RUclipsrs who have crispy perfect sound. Keep up the great work
Always happy to help. :)
Love the new camera! A new era for Vincey V content is upon us.
Same camera, just better usage of it. :)
This helped me a lot. Thank you so much for the video!
Glad it helped!
Ooo good tip at the end there with the isopropyl alcohol to deep clean. Why didn't I think of that.
It works wonders.
Thank you for mentioning the ratio of paint to thinner, i had some abysmal results with my new airbrush and i could pinpoint it to overthinning my paint. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Beautiful, I appreciate you explained that the airbrush is a tool and not an ends mean to all painting tricks. I had no idea you could glazing with the airbrush too!
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
Thank you for the guide. I didn't know the alcohol could be used to clean an airbrush.
Thanks Vince! Ive been using my airbrushes for about 2 years now so this was a nice refresher on all the basics. Stuff like this really helps out when you're just starting out! Love the paint job too, as per usual. Your stuff always is on point!!
Thank you, always happy to help.
I picked up an Iwata NEO about a year ago. And while I have used it, I haven't used it as much as I'd like to... This has been largely because of me not having the experience and knowledge about thinning paints for the airbrush, what PSI to use and how to quickly clean the airbrush and change colors. You have helped me Immensly with all of the above Vince, so I would like to thank you for that
Always happy to help.
Outstanding breakdown of airbrush basics. Me and my team took a shot Everytime u said tool and we are all tipsy. Cheers brother.
Always happy to help, and drinking games with my videos are all very dangerous. ;)
Great video Vince! some really good points for all levels.
Personally from experience now I think more importantly than a good airbrush first is a good compressor. 3L tank, water trap, and many of these come with a basic airbrush.
the initial compressor I had didn't have a tank, causing the air to start to become hot after a period of use, which lead to the air cooling in the hose, forming water droplets, and then spluttering with the paint. I had no idea what the problem was for a long time as it would start to happen about 40mins in. Drove me nuts. Ended up finding out the issue and got a new compressor, followed by a new Iwata.
Yes, a compressor with a tank can be a god-send for sure.
19:25 I agree. I use 99% IPA for cleaning my airbrush all the time. It's like literary 10 times cheaper than Airbrush Cleaner. Word of warning. Don't let it soak too long, because it will effect the alloy down in the cup. Not sure if that will cause any issues long term, but definitely something I have noticed and others have experienced as well.
I've heard a number of people suggest diluted ammonia-free windshield washer fluid and a little bit of IPA
It's my go to and really does wonders.
Thanks Vince - liking the back to basics.
Happy to help :)
So about 9 months ago I bought myself an Airbrush and Compressor. I may have not followed your advice an bought a top of the H&S Infinity CR plus 2 in 1 Airbrush kit and the Sparmax duel outlets Compressor. However being as I've done construction for decades and understand how to be very careful with fine tools, I'm not that overly worried about using them and breaking them.
So far I've only done priming with them and found them to be such a helpful tool. But then again I been so busy as of late I've not done any brush painting since I got them. Maybe my work load will taper off some in the near future and I'll be to try out many of things that you covered in this video with my 'new' toy.
As always thank you for all of your wonderful and helpful information.
I have same model. If you're up to it, catch yourself a commission or buy a large miniature (e.g. car, airplane, etc.) This way you're getting your moneys value in comparable short time
@@naphaneal - It's not like I don't have a backlog of models to build, base, prime and paint. I have over 2,000 points of Death Guard plus Mortarion in my pile of shame along with at least 1,500 points of Necrons plus The Silent King and Void Dragon.
I've simply not had the time to paint due to work being so busy. The few times I've had a small window of time it has been stupidly hot where I live in Southern California. But with winter soon to be here... the good painting weather and temperatures hopefully come with it!
Always happy to help and I say it's time to push yourself with that airbrush. :)
Brand new to airbrushing. Thanks a lot for making these videos Vince.
My pleasure! Always happy to help.
Vince, great video; however, I think this video in particular is one of your best. As somebody who is about to start using airbrush for the first time, I think this is the best video I've come across for a beginner. It approaches airbrush in a practical way, and covers all of the most effective ways to start using this new tool without going too deep into specific techniques. Bravo, sir! And thanks as always.
Glad it was helpful!
Have never even thought about not going full blow before letting the paint flow in the airbrush. Eye opener 🙂
Happy to help. :)
thanks for the video, and the explanation. could you by any chance make a step by step tutorial how to make those lightnings on the wings.
they are awesome and I could apply them on more then wings.
thanks keep up the good work.
I'll see what I can do. :)
I picked up the $80 cheapo set that Jon showed off recently. Used that for a few weeks and just picked up the Master compressor/airbrush set and the HP CS. The $80 cheapo one was enough to let me know I wanted to invest, but oh my goodness the HP CS and real compressor is so much better. Still getting the hang of pressure/thinning/distance/trigger control, but it's so good. I should have done this years ago....
It's really a wonderful tool for sure. :)
Man whenever I wonder about something, you sure as hell have the answer! Thanks man!
Always happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella if you could also shed some light on varnishing with an Airbrush, it would be most appreciated! Does thinning down the varnish make it less effective? Do I have to do multiple coats? Many thanks in advance!
Hi Vince, I really appreciate everything you do - no-nonsense perfect advice I know I can alwats trust. You are one of the few people who also suggest beginners using airbrush which I think is a good idea - especially for priming! So much healthier to stay away from those solvent spray cans too
Just want to Comment and say thank you. Took my first big jump into using my airbrush today And primed 10 models with. i Know it seems small but i've been Freighted to use ever since i got n September but thanks to this video and other you have on channel, i final took that step used it, so big thank you again with out video likes these i do not think i would of ever worked courage to try it
Great to hear! No reason to be afraid and the only way to learn is to start. :)
15:20 That is why I only use Thinner for inks (while sometimes using some Flow Improver for regular acrylics). They won't cause glogs, so might as well have the benefit of drying faster with only Thinner as a.... thinner ;)
Fair enough.
To all soon to be Airbrushusers. As a learned carpainter and Wargamer I use Airguns-/-brushes daily. The amount of necessary cleaning is a fact to consider, if you u want enjoyable hobby-/-worktime and results. Great guide from VV ...
Always happy to help. :)
thanx as i just airbrushed for the first time lastnight with a cheap airbrush i had major clogging issues till my trigger went down the drain ugh , good thing i got one more grav fed to use , thanks for this vid it helps alot
Happy to help
This video was excellent - very thorough, clear, and matter-of-fact. I've been using an airbrush for well over 10 years, but I consider myself only... 'All Right™' with it. I definitely got a few answers to things that frustrate me - this was worth not only a like, but also a subscribe. :)
Glad it was helpful! Glad to have you along on the hobby journey and always happy to help. :)
Amazing dragon! The colours are beautiful. But more than the paintjob, the conversion is much better than the "box" version. Can you show us how you did the conversion?
Sadly I don't have any footage and it was lots of back and forth and careful green stuff work. Not something I'm sure even I could replicate again. :)
Too bad, but the result is amazing! Bravo!
Could you explain which parts are greenstuff work and which parts came from other kits?
The lightening effect in the wings is incredible. I know you’ve done a lightening video or something like it before but would you maybe do something on how you achieved that effect in the wings?
It's not too complicated, but effectively, paint the bolt a bright white, glaze a white around it witht he airbrush, glaze up against it with a blue tone, run a little white down the bolt, then use the airbrush and white to make some focus spots. I'll add it to the list for a future video.
@@VinceVenturella your clear description sounds way simpler than it looks! I don’t own an airbrush, but I imagine the effect is still achievable…with more futzing 🤪-thank you for considering!
Excellent video. One addition: bubbles in the cap can also occur with airbrushes with removable cups, if the cup is not screwed in airtight. It drove me nuts with my H&S.
Good call!
I got an amazing deal on an eclipse bottle feed from hobby lobby I use for priming. Damaged box or something 20 dollars. Then I picked up a neo gravity fed for 30 bucks at Michaels. Keep an eye out deals and airbrushes can be pretty affordable.
Awesome
Thanks for all your amazing videos Vince! Is there one of those where you talk about generic guidelines to use safely an airbrush (mask, ventilation etc)?
Not really, but I should include that in a video, that being said, you pretty much have it. That's pretty much it with acrylic paint, a good mask and some venthilation will cover you.
I ran out of airbrush thinner the other day and instead used Jo Sonja’s “medium magic mix” to thin down the paints. It seemed to work fantastically and not once did the nozzle clog, which I attribute to the retarder medium in the mix.
I would recommend trying it out.
Cool, I'll try it.
Vince you are so much an inspiration for me. Best teacher ever!
Thank you. :)
Been airbrushing for a few years now, but this was a nice refresher course and I even learned a couple things. I never thought to combine the Vallejo thinner and flow improver into a custom mix like that, so I'm definitely going to try it.
Glad it was helpful!
Great airbrush how-to! Something I'd really like to see in a future video (or even as a product for sale) is a cross-brand paint set that you would approve of. Everyone says that different brands have different colors that work better or worse, so which colors from Vallejo do you recommend? P3? Reaper? AK? Citadel? Who else? What exact bottle of paint does Vince reach for when he needs wash specific color?
I would pay good money for a hand picked assortment of a few dozen individual paints that Vince Venturella is willing to say are his preferred version of each color.
inks from Schmincke, Liquitex, Dalor Rowney, or Windsor Newton go smoothly through every airbrush without needing much tweeking with thinners. Other than that, paint wise every brand can be used in an airbrush, with the right amount of thinning.
@feragoh, didn't Vince already do this? I think he already has a go-to paints video.
Edit: He does. Hobby Cheating: Episode 222
Yep, here you go - ruclips.net/video/MXEWyW_3bo0/видео.html
@@VinceVenturella perfect, thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for. Ever considered packaging and selling cross-brand sets in some fashion?
Absolutely loving the improved video quality Vince.
Thank you. :)
Hello Vince! I've checked out many of your videos and love your passion for teaching us tips and tricks and philosophy behind colours and motivation. I'm definitely no expert in airbrushing, but I believe I've got some clues on paint thinning and the general ropes. I have an airbrush question though that I hope you can answer: I have an Iwata Eclipse HPCS and use your 20/80mix of flow improver and thinner but when I want to paint details and go close to the model and paint medium sized details, like the belly on my saurus warriors, the airbrush stutters. I can paint small/thin lines but not consistent; the paint stops and I have to aim the brush to the side and blast it on full force to rinse the nozzle, then I can paint a small line again, for like 1 second before it stops again. I have tried to practically dillute the paint to water consistency but no luck. I have tried different pressure but nothing works. PSI over 25 isn't practical when doing detail work. I bought a new compressor with a tank and a water trap to attach to the airbrush, no luck. This frustrated me and I thought the Iwata was defective... So I bought an Infinity, to rule that out and even though I find the Infinity a bit more high end with a nicer trigger with better feel for the air, the problem with the small "brush stream" prevails. I believe this is because the low pressure and puny air/paint stream makes it so the paint clogges more easily, but I see on your videos that it is indeed possible to keep a "moderate stream" for a fairly long time, at least for several seconds. So therefore I come before you, is this normal and something I'll have to live with or should I buy more airbrushes?
So this is a pretty classic case of dry tip. You might be in a very dry climate, so your paint might be drying quickly. You want to make sure you are cleaning the tip regularly with a wet brush. You also might want to keep the nozzle clean, the little brass nozzle can have some subtle build up inside and it can then make dry tip more common. You need a needle scraping tool to clean that out. Worst case, you can always try a little drying retardent in the thinner/flow improver mix.
@@VinceVenturella I tried the other day, to add a bit drying retarder in the mixture and I believe I have remedied the problems. Got to test some more but it definitely got better.
Nice video as always Vince. One question and one comment:
1. Question - there exists a line of thought that the airbrush thinner actually makes the paints dry out a lot quicker (leading to more dry-tip), so some users swear by only using airbrush flow improver - have you ever found that to be the case?
2. One tip - if you use the fluid cup lid (that came with the airbrush), it will greatly reduce the paint from drying out inside the airbrush fluid cup - reducing things like clogs, etc for new users.
The thinner will make it dry faster, because it will evaporate more quickly than the water and medium in the paint, but that is why I have flow improver in my mix, that slows the drying process. :)
@@VinceVenturella ahhhh gotcha, that makes sense.
I like the advise of Sam Lentz(at least I believe it was Sam) that you should keep the whole airbrush in a mason jar of dilute thinner when not in use. It is hard to get your airbrush dried out with paint if it never gets dry.
that seems extreme to me, I just rinse out really well every time, never had an issue in years. once a year or so I disassemble and clean everything out, but its mostly just paint dried on the side of the cup, nothing to impede use.
not sure how teflon rings and other parts like that would work.
It's a great technique, I always keep water in mine.
Really informative amazing stuff. Vince thank you a lot for all your vids. First dragon I'll make with my new airbrush will be made to your honor. You are the boss. Thank you again. Now i feel prepared to start with my airbrush.
Damn that oil wash on the dragon, I bet it was a lot of fun to do :D It sure does look like it is :D Happy New Year Vince :)
Absolutely, it's always a scary moment, but it was great for the final effect.
Thank you. Super useful in my preparation for painting a Griffin.
Happy to help. :)
@@VinceVenturella all your painting tips and insights help. You are a community hero. I was so pleased to see your dragon on WarCom and had a feeling that was one of your secret projects you were working on.
Hello, Vince! It is me again… In a few short days my first airbrush will arrive. I watched many of your vids to be prepared. I exceptionally noted how i want to clean my airbrush watching you. Buuuuut…. I chose the Harder & Steenbeck Ultra 2024, because i think that's the right learning tool for me. (I couldnt bring myself to buy cheaper. "Buying cheap means buying twice" is a saying here…) I watched Warricks own Video on the workflow and now i don't know how to clean. I cannot pinch the air nozzle of the Ultra 2024 to backup the air flow to mix paint in the cup or clean between paints. Warrick sprays everything out to the front, but you said NEVER to do this… Also he uses an old bent needle to stir in the cup. But won't that scratch the inside? I bought makeup sponges and will try to backup the air flow with that. Do you think, this might work? Do you habe other tips for me material-wise? Especially for mixing in the cup? Thaaaank you!
If you switch to the 2 tooth guard, you can pinch the front of the airbrush to backflow it. You can also use a thicker sponge.
@@VinceVenturellahey! I sprayed my first basics. The compressor is at about 30 psi. Learning with the Ultra2024 comes along. Backflow is working with a thick sponge. I am using Vallejo Foundations and army painter fanatic paints. I use your 4-1 Thinner-Flower-Mix and i thin accoirding to your ratios. Buuuuut: i am getting dry tip really fast with every medium. Do you have an idea, what the problem is? Could it be that i am using too much alcohol in cleaning? Also i cant seem to get the airbrush fully clean by backlogging and dumping. Can you help?
@@benjaminlenert8768 SO with primer, its a good idea to have some 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean your airbrush just like the water you see here. With the dry tip, it's likely your local humidity, you can get a small desk humidifier, that being said you could also try adding just a little drying retardent to the mix.
@@VinceVenturella Hello! Drying retardent from Vallejo arrives and it helps. It has a gel like consistency which is a bit weird to mix in. Should i add that to the regular thinner-flower-mix (and in which ratio?) or should i add that separately each time? Thanks again!
If you look at the safety sheets for the Flow Improver and Thinner, you get the impression that they are more the same then most people realize. I think that is also why some people swear by using one over the other and visa versa. That would not make sense if they would be quite dissimilar.
I like Thinner more, because I am more bothered by paint not drying fast enough on the model (and getting spiders) then I am with stuff like dry tip or getting paint dried somewhere else in the airbrush.
That's fair. :)
I've found that badger airbrushes are very begginer friendly since theres no rubber seals(except maybe in the trigger mechanism) and the nozzle is relitivley large so I found it a lot easier to clean then my amazon iwata knockoff.
Makes sense.
Well... damn. This was a nice rundown of how, what, why. Glad you made that Ninjon challenge video 😀
Always happy to help. :)
Two additional ways of altering the cone is by how close/far you are from you model and also how high your pressure is. The cone is much more narrow at 35 PSI compared to 25.
EDIT: apologies for the spam, but love our interactions and feeding the algorithm ain't bad either ;)
I don't mind at all. :)
Thanks mate! As allways the Best content possible
Thank you, always happy to help. :)
I just ordered my first Airbrush, compressor and well everything else as well :-) well worth it used my Christmas bonus to get it and still have some left so woop woop.
Enjoy! You're going to have a great time.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks bud :-) got a good quality but inexpensive airbrush and a really nice compressor that should do for good :-) as always thanks again and hope you had a nice Christmas.
video quality is skyrocketing recently!! when vince conquers the audio quality too it's GAME OVER!!!!
The last mountain. :)
Lol good timing Vince, my wife just got me an airbrush for my bday and I’m looking forward to using it on the drakes
Awesome.
Great video. I still only use mine for priming
Always time to take the next step brother. ;)
Came here straight from PMP cheers for the upload 👍
Awesome. :)
Pretty awesome work, well done. I am already well versed in using the Airbrush, since I am doing scifi scale models, but am soon starting to paint some 3D printed figures, which is a totally different thing. Good to see that I can use the air brush and to what extend.
Absolutely!
15:00 Also they most likely have have surfactant added so they flow of your pen (or in this case flow through your airbrush).
Indeed.
Vince, you are the maestro! Thanks a lot
My pleasure!
Thanks again Vince. As always, a great new resource.
My pleasure! :)
I just got my first airbrush delivered today. Great timing as I am nervous to use it haha. Insightful as always, thanks.
Awesome, happy to help. :)
That is a nice looking Verminlord
I think so. ;)
Thanks Vince it was a great video, one way that I know cleans the airbrush like nobodies business and I think is well worth investing in is a ultra sonic cleaner. That and some simply green has fixed most of my problems.
I have an ultra-sonic cleaner and it can certainly do the work, but honestly, since I started using my cleaning method in the linked video along with 99% isopropyl alcohol, I've never had the need to use the cleaner. :)
Keep up the great work, Vince. You are a machine with the quality content.
I appreciate that! :)
Awesome video Mr. Vince, very informative and i liked it a lot.
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for the video, great prep as I go into starting my first big army project this weekend. For the newer Stormcast range with all of their cloaks/cloth, would you bother masking those (with silly putty as one of the earlier hobby cheating suggest) when doing the metals? I have them all zenithal primed, so don't want to waste that effort, but on the other hand all the masking would be a ton of time. Or would it be just as easy to come back in afterwards and lay down some highlights and shadows, as illustrated here, with the airbrush afterwards? Thanks again for all of the videos, they have been a fantastic help on my hobby journey.
Either could work, if you're doing both with the airbrush, you're going to mask at some point. I would likely mask the metals second and then do the cloak, it should be easier to just mask those edges around the cloak.
@@VinceVenturella Good point, thanks for the advice!
Hey Vince! I’ve been loving your videos, thank you for sharing all your knowledge. What psi do you have you compressor set to for paints like Pro Acryl? I thought you had mentioned you set it different than your primers, but I can’t find the video that you mentioned this in.
Same as everything, so 18 - 20 PSI.
Vince, I have issues with my white FW ink for zenithal priming. I go a low pressure and a couple drops of thinner/improver but I get speckeling and beading of flat surfaces. Is this an issue with my settings, or the surface of the model? (primed with the same airbrush).
Also, love the head swap you did for the horns. Verminlord horns, yes?
sounds like dried paint residue in the airbrush. give it a good cleaning and check the rubber rings for damage. change them, if necessary. also premix paints in dropper bottles other than in the airbrush cup.
I had exactly the same issues, I found it needs quite a lot of thinning, not just 1 or 2 drops. I am FAR from an expert but there is so much pigment in inks you can thin them quite a lot. I also went for a higher pressure rather than lower. I am still very new to using inks, but the couple of times I have tried it so far super thin worked better.
Thin inks more, you can also try turning the PSI way up, it will atomize it more, you might also have something in the nozzle, there are lots of potential issues, but check through those and it should set you in the right direction.
@@VinceVenturella I have upped the psi and cleaned behind the nozzle. There was some old lacquer built up there.
Very nice video.... I found it just the time I needed it... I have a Project with a D&D Mechanic Dragon which has plenty of Patches in its Wings... The only think i didnt understand is how to make highlight on my model... as I know and please correct me if I am wrong... always when we base paint have the airbrush 90 degrees to the surface we paint... and the highlights i dilute the paint and change the degrees of painting... but i didnt manage it well....whats going wrong with it... (Airbrush is Talon) thanks in advance :)
So I will say, you don't need to keep it at that angle. I am not sure of the exact figure you have, but generally, if we're talking about a large flat surface, you want to rotate the airbrush at a deeper angle and pick something about the wing to be the area the light is catching, something like the lower end of the wing or something like that. Use the shape of the cone to your advantage to create the transition. Hope that helps.
Woah camera upgrade? Looking much better!
Same camera, just figuring out how to actually use it.
Another fantastic video guide. Thanks a lot, Vince!
Always happy to help. :)
Is much better audio quality this time thank you
Working on it. :)
I thought you allway push the trigger down and adjust the paint while pull the trigger back, so there's always a consistent element and one which is variable
It's more about carefully working through both with just simple touches.
Hey Vince how did you get the lightning on the wings to look so real
So it's a combination of green stuff sculpting and then paint over the top with airbrush for the glow. :)
Another great informative video, thanks
Always happy to help. :)
Ahh what a great conversion! I know it was a long time ago, but where did you get some of the pieces you used, like the necklace and extra armor on the arms?
The necklace I made from wire and a scenery piece. The bracers are from the big Sigmar terrain piece
@@VinceVenturella thank you
I have been really trying to take advantage of my airbrush lately and your videos really help with that. Now my question is when you say you thin your paints 1-1 with thinner do you also do that for Inks and other prethinned paints? because white ink and only white ink gives me a really grainy texture. I have tried with yellow, orange, speed paints and thinned down paints and no other paint gets that grainy splotchy texture like white does
Yep, with inks and contrast and everything. Always thinner first. Now, onto your challenge, the problem here is white, most white paints are bad and it has to do with the pigment to make white. The answer is usually don't use white, use something close but isn't just white pigment (Ivory, buff, w/e), I really don't spray pure white through my airbrush other than an occasional white ink or white primer from Stynelrez.