When cleaning the needle, I use a makeup sponge with rubbing alcohol on it. I then lay the needle on the sponge and swipe the sponge up the needle up to the tip. It'll be clean in 1 or 2 swipes. Quickest and best cleaning method for needle I've ever done.
I used to paint cars so transition to airbrushed was fairly straight forward. I basically used this method but I use windex to clean and flush with a water rinse, cuts the paint better and faster
@@kylesmith3211 Ive been using Windex with ammonia for 11 years on my Iwatas with no ill effects, other than a little loss of chrome inside the paint cups. In all honesty ive seen that same loss of chrome in peoples paint cups who dont use windex. I believe its due to the actual wiping out with paper towel etc more than to do with ammonia. My oldest is an Eclips HP-CS (my first airbrush) and it looks brand new and works just as well as the day i got it if not better.
Createx Airbrush Restorer is an excellent cleaner but I’m not sure how hard it is on the airbrush. I never run it through, just use it to clean the paint cup and the needle after it is out of the airbrush. Thoughts? Something I just learned after I typed the above). I saw on another channel that they recommended warm/hot water. I tried it and the difference is amazing. Just a few squirts of warm/hot water (coffee temperature) and the airbrush is clean. And I mean as clean as if you took it apart and scrubbed it. I use a squeeze squirt bottle with a 90 degree neck. I wrapped it with foil coated bubble wrap for insulation. I use basic Createx colors and candies.
Don't see anything wrong with this, people use ultrasonic cleaners and rave about them, but I've destroyed 2 Airbrushes using those and won't put my ABs in there again. Acetone FTW
I blast gt85 through mine between sessions, keeps everyone lubed and breaks down any paint, then next sesh full air power and water and im back in the game
Just to clarify, when you pull back the needle for cleaning and blowingback the solution into the cup....I want to make sure the needle is NOT past the screw? or do I want it past the screw so it fills the entire inside of the airbrush? a little confused! Great Video!
What I do, which always raises eyebrows when I say it, is completely submerge my entire airbrush(after taking it apart) in water. Not distilled water, just regular old tap water. Have never had any issues or clogs or anything.
Do you mean “always make sure the needle is NOT behind the seal before back flushing”? I was assuming the needle body made the seal. I ask because I’m new and I’ve been getting sticky trigger after any session. I disassemble and clean each time. I wondered if back flushing was somehow allowing paint into the brush body. Badger states back flushing is only necessary for paint allowed to dry so I stopped but still get sticky trigger
correct, you want the needle passing within the packing screw so that it makes a seal before back flushing. sorry for any confusion. Your packing screw might be too loose if you're getting paint in the body of the airbush, so you may need to tighten it. You want it so that it creates a good seal around the needle.
I prefer distilled water because some of the cleaners can be rough on the chrome or brass within the airbrush if left sitting in there. Airbrush cleaners also evaporate faster than distilled water. Hope this helps!
Been leaving water in the airbrush for years, just a couple drops. My airbrushes rarely get put away but when they do I don't spray all the water out just shake them and store. I also never fully break down a airbrush unless I have to, give a proper cleaning and flush between spray sessions and a couple drops distilled water. Been doing this method for years, I. have a iwata hp-c that turns 40 this year and been treating it like this the whole time, It sprays better than the day I bought it and still works because it was never constantly taken apart and a couple drops distilled water in the cup between sessions. Happy New Years and cheers to everyone!
@@theartworkshop Thank you sir, I definitely believe breaking down the airbrush wears it out. No matter how careful you are the threads in the airbrush body wear a little every time. This may not seem like much but over the years it adds up.
Your cleaning technique can applied to solvent paint users, in my case I used lacquer thinner for automotive paint and stored dry regardless even over night ,30 plus years of airbrushing
For acrylic paint I use a custom cleaner that contains purified water, Isopropyl alcohol, and Createx 4012 which has Butoxy Ethanol. And very hot water to rinse. When I use Autoborne or other sealers/printers I use straight ISO. Every 2-25 hours of use OR if I have used multiple high pigment colors I do a complete teardown.
Thanks for the tips. I use airbrushes to paint model kits. I don't feel confident to paint nice art like you. I still use lacquers and enamels but I am slowly transitioning to Acrylics. Lacquer thinner and acetone are dangerous chemicals for us and for our airbrushes.
I'm not sure I understand the explanation of the backwashing. You said pull back the needle but don't go past the screw inside but then you said make sure you pull the needle back beyond the screw. I don't know if I heard this correctly. Can you explain please. thanks for the video.
My apologies for any confusion. First I like to clean out all the paint in my airbrush. Then to backflush cleaner, what I like to do is slightly retract the needle so that I don't poke my finger with it. Then I'll place my finger over the nozzle (blocking air flow) until I see the cleaner in the cup start to bubble. I'll probably have to make a video on backflushing an airbrush in the future.
Been using Vince method. Been working good. Totally going to do yours for color swaps for a bit, then probably fuse the two. I paint minis so, small cup lots of changes. You rock. Thanks for the videos, especially the air speed and angles charts.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My issue with airbrushing is ... I seen to spend more time cleaning the bloody thing then using it. Then Im so unmotivated to use it as I'll have to bloody ckean it again abd it becomes a vicious circle. Over Christmas I changed to a .05mm needle and tried using contrast and speed paints only. Much better.
my recommendation is to mix your colors outside the airbrush try to use less paint in the cup. filling it up to the max and mixing colors in the airbrush makes such a mess. I only use a few drops of paint and when it runs out and add another few.
Good advice, coming from an Idustrial painting background (mainly furniture, actually coffins at the minute) I always have to check the nozzle and needle. I've managed to do a nice enough cat portrait recently and I am currently working on a portrait of Audrey Hepburn. I've implemented a lot of your techniques already, gone through a lot of your videos while at work and just listened. It's nice to know that, as you said, drawing with pencils is very similar to airbrushing. Quality content on this subject. Thank you 👍
@@sarinavanderpoel it would depend on the place. I would expect it to be a rarity in bigger factory "assembly line" type places. I would say the self employed guy would be more likely to do a custom job, but you're probably gonna have to pay extra depending on what you want. All I can suggest is you look around locally or see who could deliver to you.
First, Happy New Year to you! Once again you have provided an excellent useful video. Thanks. I am going to try the 50/50 water/4012 mix. Looking forward to the upcoming portrait tutorial.
Thanks for this video. Yesterday I had some problems with two of my airbrush getting cloged. I had a lote of work to unclog them. Your tricks will help me to mantain them clean.
I know that using just distilled water in a radiator is bad because it will absorb minerals and cause damage. I wonder if this would be the same with an airbrush.
I think Vince's way to switch paint works better - pour water in cup, backflow, dump out of cup, wipe inside of cup with paper towel, spray out excess water. Then repeat the same process but instead the second time the paper towel is rarely required. That's it. You really don't want to spray out more paint through your nozzle that you need to.
Doesn't work well for some airbrushes though, could do it with my cheap one, my h&s infinity hates it Have to use a soft brush brush and give it a swish around with water/cleaner I do agree with you spraying excess paint out is a bad idea 👍
@@kingjpeg My Iwata HPCS loves it just fine :) I don't see how a different brand would change the fact that you are rinsing and wiping the cup instead of releasing paint through the nozzle, but i'll take your word for it.
The Iwatas are sutable to backflow and itworks just fine for them but the H&S models and my old Sotar with the fixed nozzle are not. I use the HP-B in long painting sessions because is so easy to clean with backflow, event the CM-B can be cleaned this way. For every other airbrush I'll use the method of this video.
Hi i just wanted to say thanks to your reviews i finally bought myself Badger Patriot Extreme and working with it is pure pleasure compared to knockoff airbrushes i used before. happy new year
Thanks for showing us this. As I get deeper into this type of artwork I am recognizing the costs more and want to maintain my airbrush equipment properly.
To usando acetona para a limpeza profunda de tinta acrilíca nos primeiros momentos, depois venho com detergente e agua destilada para o termino da limpeza e está dando resultato extraordinário.....
Hello and thank you very much for posting your video(s). I find them very helpful. I am hoping you could help me with a couple of questions. I have a smaller antique safe that was my grandfathers. The paint is badly worn off. I will be sanding the entire safe and I plan on repainting it and adding a bit of art. I have NEVER used an airbrush! I would appreciate any suggestions for the following: 1) what BLACK colored paint product to spray the entire safe with once it is sanded to bare steel? 2) what paint product to use in my air sprayer? 3) what paint product to spray over the entire safe, in order to give it a clear coat as protection for the black paint and the artwork? Thank you very much in advance, it is appreciated!
glad to hear it- thanks. This is definitely not my area of expertise. I've never tried to resurface and refinish antique furniture. I wouldn't even know where to start! I wish you the best of luck though.
Jesus, I've gone through so many brushes, and never knew to not backflush with the needle out. Before anyone sees me and calls me out on this, yes I'm very bad with airbrushes.
Don't say, I use my cleaning solution! Tell us what make/brand you're using, that would help everyone struggling what to buy. I've found that water does not clean enamel or lacquer paints.
I also found that using Needle juice helps out a lot during painting sessions and prevents paint from sticking to the needle. I also stopped pulling my needles through the back of the airbrush, I only take the needles out through the front which prevented the seals from wearing faster because the needle is going through the needle pack in one direction not two different directions.
Not all needles CAN be pulled through the front, and if your seal is set up correctly (this was a painful lesson) then pulling the needle out will NOT drag paint into the body, nor will it wear it out. In fact, you would do more damage pulling many needles through the front because they often have that etching on the back that tears up the seal, whereas there is no extra edges pulling the needle out the intended way. Remember, the needle is ALWAYS going back and forth through the seal, but yanking it through the front can tear it up, and I have never seen a needle without some sort of texture on the back, or even a big plastic ball like the sotar needles have.
@@Nethezbet I think it's still a better option to push and then pull the needle through the front. No yanking the needle, OMG. Yes, there can be some notches on the back of the needle and the back of the needle can have hard edges. But this is still a better option than pulling the needle from the back because even after thorough cleaning you can still have residual color build up on the front of the needle which you are not aware of it and pulling it through back on regular basis will damage the internal seal for sure. Not to mention how easy it is to damage the tip of the needle by trying to push it through the back. The ball at the back of the needle is just a flawed design of that particular airbrush manufacturer. Anyway airbrush parts like needles, nozzles, and seals do wear. This is why manufacturers offer them like spare parts. But to be honest I'm not quite sure if that particular internal seal that I mention earlier is replaceable. You have to check the manufacturer's specifications of your airbrush to be sure.
@@JohnLorac it is a seal, that is is job. It is CONSTANTLY doing that as the needle slides forward and back... Constantly... That is the life of the seal lol You aren't hurting it more by sliding it back and letting the seal clean off the wet paint, but you will damage the seal dragging those rough edges across it. In fact, that is how mine failed. They don't fail anymore... Because I don't drag it through the front 😁
@@Nethezbet By residual color build up I meant DRIED paint. Sorry if that wasn't obvious. And with dried paint on the front of the needle trying to pull it through the back of the airbrush means damaging the seal for sure in the long term. And you can still sand off the rough edges on the back of the needle with sandpaper. If that's the case. I'm using H&S and this is actually a recommended way how to remove needles from their airbrush. And yes, their's needles don't have rough edges at the back.
@@JohnLorac They have some deep grooves on the H&S (the whole back end is etched out), and NO, they do NOT recommend pulling the needle out the front. I even popped my H&S manual out because I thought "That sounds weird." Then I checked their online manuals. Stop making stuff up, lol. During their cleaning directions they don't even pull the nozzle off before the needle (another risky move). You may want to check that out.
blast a load of isopropyl Alcohol 70% or higher at the end of a session (1 liter bottle cost 3$ ). shake while spraying and put the airpressure high. Great for breaking down dry acrylic paint in brushes as well.
I'm a bit of a hobbyist, and my wife surprised me this Christmas with an airbrush kit. ...and I'm already feeling intimidated and overwhelmed just by the apparently complicated cleaning process that's required. 😖
HELP! I've been away from the hobby for several years now, but I'm retired now, and have the time to jump back into it. My only experience with airbrushing was with the Aztek system. Well, much to my chagrin, it's no longer available and tips are now a thing of the past. So I'm asking if you or anyone else who can offer advice; what kind of airbrush would you recommend to a "beginner?" My usual projects are automobiles and WW2 and Cold War aircraft.
I'm always going to recommend an iwata eclipse (just because it's my favorite) Excellent for everyone and great to learn with as well. The iwata revolution is also a great one that is a bit more forgiving for thicker paint- lower price too. The new harder and steenbeck ultra2024 is a very solid choice for beginners as well. Check those out! Hope this helps and best of luck.
@@theartworkshop I've seen the Iwata brand around for years, but I've always thought they were too expensive. But then, you get what you pay for. Have you any thoughts on the "self- contained" airbrush/compressor combinations that seem to be on every other modeling page?
Thanks for this video, is great content!! Could you please help me understand one thing? I use to use my airbrush maybe omce or twice a week top, I also only use acrylic paints. I am used to deep clean it at the end of every session, but now I wonder if by doing so I am overdoing with cleaning. So my question is: how often should one deep clean an airbrush (i normally use a ultrasonic machine and cleaner). And when doing so, should I have to remove ALL parts? Thanks in advance for your help!!
thanks! You know I actually used to do the same. Back when I started I cleaned my airbrush too much and I think it was more harm than good. I'll have to make a full video on my cleaning process so stay tuned. Ultrasonic cleaners work well but I don't recommend them because one caused a small crack in my micron. I stopped using them after that.
@@theartworkshopthanks, a full video explaining all this would be incredible! Thanks for all you've done and continue to do for the airbrush artists community. Your videos are extremely well done and so much informative.. I'll stay tuned for the video! 💪
I’m in the UK and I’m not sure what reducer is? Would be great if someone could say? Personally I rinse my airbrushes through with car screen wash once it’s spraying clear I use a shop bought AB cleaner(Ultimate Modelling products AB cleaner) I spray and backwash a couple of cup fulls of that through - this is for in between colours. At the end of the build I undo the nozzle remove the needle and clean carefully with a thin dental brush( almost like a pipe cleaner) I finally give all the parts a wipe down with isopropyl swabs( pre injection swabs actually) and then I dab a small amount of iwata AB oil on the needle before re assembling. If I’ve used enamel based paint I repeat all of the above but initially use white spirit to wash the majority of the residual paint out.
Great advice - thank you.💜😊👍✌️ I tend to push the needle (after cleaning) back through from the front on my H&S airbrushes, I don't suppose it matters which way as long as the needle is clean?🤔🤞✌️👍
I'm a newbie. I only started using an airbrush a few months ago but I do love it. At the moment I mainly use it on models but I am starting to explore art work in general. The question I have is that I have found 100% IPA to be an excellent way of cleaning the types of acrylic paints I use (mainly Tamiya). BUT, I rarely see or hear of IPA being used - is there a reason for this? Am I using something which is fundamentally bad for an airbrush? Can anyone just say whether I should stop using IPA. I'm not after any kind of lengthy analysis but it would be good to get the opinion from some others about this cleaning method. Thank you in advance - I very much appreciate any help given.
Tap water is fine to quickly rinse/clean the airbrush. Distilled water is important if you leave it in the paint cup like I do because it is pure without any dissolved solids. Distilled or deionized water is also necessary for reducing water based paints.
I had issues even after I thought I had it cleaned their be little left over paint that seize up the needle so now I come back couple hours after finishing and pull back on trigger few times to insure any paint that may be left doesn't stick the needle to the body.
I would like to know what procedure you follow when you get paint in the trigger mechanism, or in other words what cleaning after the accident like that looks like. Accidentally got paint in there the other day and flushed it out with the water, but I'm not sure if I were supposed to disassemble the piston and clean that too
Hmm I clean my airbrush in a similar fashion but I was told to never spray the unused paint through it. I guess it doesn’t matter as long as the paint isn’t dry yet. Cool subbed!
Do spray out pots work as well with lacquer? I know it's good to use a bit of water in bottom of pot when using water based paint. Seems inconvenient to do that with lacquer thinner.
What are your thoughts on flushing out the airbrush with distilled water through the needle chucking nut like they do on the airbrush asylum channel? When I do it, I notice a lot of residue in my paint cup after the flushing.
You have the softest Northeast American accent I've ever heard. I quite like listening to it!! I'd probably sound Texan hick to you lol. Anyway great content for a beginning airbrush aspiring artist.
thanks for the kind words. it's probably my microphone more than anything else! No, you wouldn't sound like a hick to me 🤣I love Texas and the southwest- it's a beautiful part of the country with amazing people. I wish you all the best in your paintings- Just stick with it.
I've just come across your videos. I've spent the morning watching then and found them extremely informative. I've now subscribed so I don't miss any. I'm just starting out but if I can achieve and become half as good as you I'll be very pleased.😊
Some advice please. I have a Badger Patriot with the standard needle. The brush seems to work intermittently and pulsates. The compressor is a tank type. Also when in use stain is released when I close the needle. It works for a few seconds then stops. The brush is and the stain is of the correct viscosity. Any advise would be greatly appreciated, Thanks,
sorry for the late reply. it could be a bunch of things, but the most common is some dried paint stuck in the nozzle. I'd clean it out the best I can and if it still doesn't work, the nozzle may be damaged. Replacing it almost also solves this type of problem for me. best of luck!
I leave water in the cup & forget about it. Been doing it for years & never had a problem. Sure, it evaporates but I never said the plan was perfect. lol
When cleaning the needle, I use a makeup sponge with rubbing alcohol on it. I then lay the needle on the sponge and swipe the sponge up the needle up to the tip. It'll be clean in 1 or 2 swipes. Quickest and best cleaning method for needle I've ever done.
From England, sounded good to me especially the filling the Cup with distilled water not cleaner overnight . Very clear narration sir. Regards.
thanks!
I used to paint cars so transition to airbrushed was fairly straight forward. I basically used this method but I use windex to clean and flush with a water rinse, cuts the paint better and faster
Someone told me Windex as well, I wonder if there are any bad effects with using Windex?
@@kylesmith3211 Ive been using Windex with ammonia for 11 years on my Iwatas with no ill effects, other than a little loss of chrome inside the paint cups. In all honesty ive seen that same loss of chrome in peoples paint cups who dont use windex. I believe its due to the actual wiping out with paper towel etc more than to do with ammonia. My oldest is an Eclips HP-CS (my first airbrush) and it looks brand new and works just as well as the day i got it if not better.
@@kylesmith3211 …I started airbrushing 30 years ago. I was told not to use windex as it would wreck rubber seals or o-rings.
Createx Airbrush Restorer is an excellent cleaner but I’m not sure how hard it is on the airbrush. I never run it through, just use it to clean the paint cup and the needle after it is out of the airbrush. Thoughts?
Something I just learned after I typed the above). I saw on another channel that they recommended warm/hot water. I tried it and the difference is amazing. Just a few squirts of warm/hot water (coffee temperature) and the airbrush is clean. And I mean as clean as if you took it apart and scrubbed it.
I use a squeeze squirt bottle with a 90 degree neck. I wrapped it with foil coated bubble wrap for insulation. I use basic Createx colors and candies.
This helps me A LOT, my works has become more efficient then ever, I owe you tuition fees ❤
wow! thank you so very much for this! so nice of you and I greatly appreciate it. I'm very happy to hear my videos are helpful
By any chance does this also work with primer?
Don't see anything wrong with this, people use ultrasonic cleaners and rave about them, but I've destroyed 2 Airbrushes using those and won't put my ABs in there again. Acetone FTW
i 100% agree with you on this. An ultrasonic cleaner cracked one of the welds on my micron years ago. Never used them again after that.
So do you want the needle back far enough to flood the body or just enough to backflow the cup?
I blast gt85 through mine between sessions, keeps everyone lubed and breaks down any paint, then next sesh full air power and water and im back in the game
Some good cleaning tips
Goog god, that portraite is beautiful
Just to clarify, when you pull back the needle for cleaning and blowingback the solution into the cup....I want to make sure the needle is NOT past the screw? or do I want it past the screw so it fills the entire inside of the airbrush? a little confused!
Great Video!
You want it past the screw (towards the nozzle) so that it fills the gap and creates a seal. Sorry for any confusion.
Is it necessary to use distilled water? As opposed to deionized or heavy water?
Deionized is great! Any water that is as pure as possible is the best. I make my own RO/DI water that has 0 TDS.
What I do, which always raises eyebrows when I say it, is completely submerge my entire airbrush(after taking it apart) in water. Not distilled water, just regular old tap water. Have never had any issues or clogs or anything.
Good video.
is distilled water really useful or can i just use water from the sink ?
distilled or reverse osmosis is best as it will have 0 TDS
@@theartworkshop Why would my sink water have Trump Derangement Syndrome?
Cool tutorial
Wipe the bowl out with a paper towel first; it saves a lot of cleaning solution and time.
Anyone got any alternatives to createx 4012? Its not stocked in my country. I use a harder and steenbeck silver bullet so good seals on there.
4011, 4013 even 5618 airbrush cleaner also can be use as a reducer!! 4013 dries slower than the 4011
Do you mean “always make sure the needle is NOT behind the seal before back flushing”? I was assuming the needle body made the seal. I ask because I’m new and I’ve been getting sticky trigger after any session. I disassemble and clean each time. I wondered if back flushing was somehow allowing paint into the brush body. Badger states back flushing is only necessary for paint allowed to dry so I stopped but still get sticky trigger
correct, you want the needle passing within the packing screw so that it makes a seal before back flushing. sorry for any confusion. Your packing screw might be too loose if you're getting paint in the body of the airbush, so you may need to tighten it. You want it so that it creates a good seal around the needle.
How about a few drops of airbrush cleaner in the cup between sessions?
I prefer distilled water because some of the cleaners can be rough on the chrome or brass within the airbrush if left sitting in there. Airbrush cleaners also evaporate faster than distilled water. Hope this helps!
@@theartworkshop Thanks
I've been trying to use touch up paint for my classic car on these and so far I get nothing. It's as thin as milk and still nothing.
And THAT'S why the chrome all came off inside your cup on your Iwata Eclipse.
What airbrush is that
having painted with brushes and now spray paint, it seems to me the maintenance required to use airbrushes is tremendously tedious.
I cant believe this channel has such a low subscriber count. Your videos are incredibly informative and extremely well made.
Thank you for sharing.
thanks so much
I agree.. This channel has quality videos and instructions. Most dont add the level of instruction as Mark does.. He's clear and concise.
He’s the best!
@@theartworkshop that VOICE!!!!! never stop
Been leaving water in the airbrush for years, just a couple drops. My airbrushes rarely get put away but when they do I don't spray all the water out just shake them and store. I also never fully break down a airbrush unless I have to, give a proper cleaning and flush between spray sessions and a couple drops distilled water. Been doing this method for years, I. have a iwata hp-c that turns 40 this year and been treating it like this the whole time, It sprays better than the day I bought it and still works because it was never constantly taken apart and a couple drops distilled water in the cup between sessions. Happy New Years and cheers to everyone!
Thanks Duane. Happy 40th to your iwata hp-c!! that still amazes me. Hope my airbrushes last that long
@@theartworkshop Thank you sir, I definitely believe breaking down the airbrush wears it out. No matter how careful you are the threads in the airbrush body wear a little every time. This may not seem like much but over the years it adds up.
@@duanemarshall9486 this is a very good point. i have to agree with you here
Lacquer thinner for the big boys!!
Your cleaning technique can applied to solvent paint users, in my case I used lacquer thinner for automotive paint and stored dry regardless even over night ,30 plus years of airbrushing
For acrylic paint I use a custom cleaner that contains purified water, Isopropyl alcohol, and Createx 4012 which has Butoxy Ethanol. And very hot water to rinse. When I use Autoborne or other sealers/printers I use straight ISO. Every 2-25 hours of use OR if I have used multiple high pigment colors I do a complete teardown.
I just use 90% rubbing alcohol. Seems to work fine. Hasn't dried out the o-rings but I also lube my airbrushes regularly which probably helps.
Thanks for the tips. I use airbrushes to paint model kits. I don't feel confident to paint nice art like you.
I still use lacquers and enamels but I am slowly transitioning to Acrylics. Lacquer thinner and acetone are dangerous chemicals for us and for our airbrushes.
I'm not sure I understand the explanation of the backwashing. You said pull back the needle but don't go past the screw inside but then you said make sure you pull the needle back beyond the screw. I don't know if I heard this correctly. Can you explain please. thanks for the video.
My apologies for any confusion. First I like to clean out all the paint in my airbrush. Then to backflush cleaner, what I like to do is slightly retract the needle so that I don't poke my finger with it. Then I'll place my finger over the nozzle (blocking air flow) until I see the cleaner in the cup start to bubble. I'll probably have to make a video on backflushing an airbrush in the future.
Been using Vince method. Been working good. Totally going to do yours for color swaps for a bit, then probably fuse the two. I paint minis so, small cup lots of changes.
You rock. Thanks for the videos, especially the air speed and angles charts.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
My issue with airbrushing is ... I seen to spend more time cleaning the bloody thing then using it. Then Im so unmotivated to use it as I'll have to bloody ckean it again abd it becomes a vicious circle.
Over Christmas I changed to a .05mm needle and tried using contrast and speed paints only.
Much better.
my recommendation is to mix your colors outside the airbrush try to use less paint in the cup. filling it up to the max and mixing colors in the airbrush makes such a mess. I only use a few drops of paint and when it runs out and add another few.
Good advice, coming from an Idustrial painting background (mainly furniture, actually coffins at the minute) I always have to check the nozzle and needle. I've managed to do a nice enough cat portrait recently and I am currently working on a portrait of Audrey Hepburn. I've implemented a lot of your techniques already, gone through a lot of your videos while at work and just listened. It's nice to know that, as you said, drawing with pencils is very similar to airbrushing.
Quality content on this subject. Thank you 👍
thanks so much. very happy to hear it!
Hi,
I’m very interested in the possibility of custom painting coffins. Is there an actual market for this or is it just sporadic jobs?
@@sarinavanderpoel it would depend on the place. I would expect it to be a rarity in bigger factory "assembly line" type places. I would say the self employed guy would be more likely to do a custom job, but you're probably gonna have to pay extra depending on what you want. All I can suggest is you look around locally or see who could deliver to you.
First, Happy New Year to you! Once again you have provided an excellent useful video. Thanks. I am going to try the 50/50 water/4012 mix. Looking forward to the upcoming portrait tutorial.
Thanks so much. Happy new year!
Holy heck. This was awesome. Off to get some distilled water
thanks!
Does anyone know where is the best place to buy a replacement needle for my 30 year old Custom Micron C? Thanks!
Thanks for this video. Yesterday I had some problems with two of my airbrush getting cloged. I had a lote of work to unclog them. Your tricks will help me to mantain them clean.
I'm into wargaming miniature painting, but this is very interesting, thanks for the tips !
I know that using just distilled water in a radiator is bad because it will absorb minerals and cause damage. I wonder if this would be the same with an airbrush.
i thought this was for laquers
anytone here form scale models dont bother
unless you try replaceuing water with denatured alcohol
I think Vince's way to switch paint works better - pour water in cup, backflow, dump out of cup, wipe inside of cup with paper towel, spray out excess water. Then repeat the same process but instead the second time the paper towel is rarely required. That's it. You really don't want to spray out more paint through your nozzle that you need to.
Doesn't work well for some airbrushes though, could do it with my cheap one, my h&s infinity hates it
Have to use a soft brush brush and give it a swish around with water/cleaner
I do agree with you spraying excess paint out is a bad idea 👍
@@kingjpeg My Iwata HPCS loves it just fine :) I don't see how a different brand would change the fact that you are rinsing and wiping the cup instead of releasing paint through the nozzle, but i'll take your word for it.
@@Navtyr it's the back flowing we are talking about.....
The Iwatas are sutable to backflow and itworks just fine for them but the H&S models and my old Sotar with the fixed nozzle are not. I use the HP-B in long painting sessions because is so easy to clean with backflow, event the CM-B can be cleaned this way. For every other airbrush I'll use the method of this video.
@@alexrc7333 Good to know, glad i didn't go with a H&S then.
instead of 10 putting crap in use toilet paper to clean sides in 1 whipe. then flush with dist. water or cleaner.
Hi i just wanted to say thanks to your reviews i finally bought myself Badger Patriot Extreme and working with it is pure pleasure compared to knockoff airbrushes i used before. happy new year
glad to hear it. Badger airbrushes will always be one of my favorites. great choice! Happy new year to you as well.
Thanks for showing us this. As I get deeper into this type of artwork I am recognizing the costs more and want to maintain my airbrush equipment properly.
To usando acetona para a limpeza profunda de tinta acrilíca nos primeiros momentos, depois venho com detergente e agua destilada para o termino da limpeza e está dando resultato extraordinário.....
I do in ultrasonic cleaner, clean as a new one and no efforts
Hello and thank you very much for posting your video(s). I find them very helpful. I am hoping you could help me with a couple of questions. I have a smaller antique safe that was my grandfathers. The paint is badly worn off. I will be sanding the entire safe and I plan on repainting it and adding a bit of art. I have NEVER used an airbrush! I would appreciate any suggestions for the following:
1) what BLACK colored paint product to spray the entire safe with once it is sanded to bare steel?
2) what paint product to use in my air sprayer?
3) what paint product to spray over the entire safe, in order to give it a clear coat as protection for the black paint and the artwork?
Thank you very much in advance, it is appreciated!
glad to hear it- thanks. This is definitely not my area of expertise. I've never tried to resurface and refinish antique furniture. I wouldn't even know where to start! I wish you the best of luck though.
Great tips, thanks for sharing. This will help a lot of folks. Have a great week. -David
Thanks, you too!
Jesus, I've gone through so many brushes, and never knew to not backflush with the needle out. Before anyone sees me and calls me out on this, yes I'm very bad with airbrushes.
Don't say, I use my cleaning solution! Tell us what make/brand you're using, that would help everyone struggling what to buy.
I've found that water does not clean enamel or lacquer paints.
explained and shown at the 3:40 mark. And no, water is not for solvent based paints. water for water based, solvent for solvent based.
I also found that using Needle juice helps out a lot during painting sessions and prevents paint from sticking to the needle. I also stopped pulling my needles through the back of the airbrush, I only take the needles out through the front which prevented the seals from wearing faster because the needle is going through the needle pack in one direction not two different directions.
Not all needles CAN be pulled through the front, and if your seal is set up correctly (this was a painful lesson) then pulling the needle out will NOT drag paint into the body, nor will it wear it out. In fact, you would do more damage pulling many needles through the front because they often have that etching on the back that tears up the seal, whereas there is no extra edges pulling the needle out the intended way.
Remember, the needle is ALWAYS going back and forth through the seal, but yanking it through the front can tear it up, and I have never seen a needle without some sort of texture on the back, or even a big plastic ball like the sotar needles have.
@@Nethezbet I think it's still a better option to push and then pull the needle through the front. No yanking the needle, OMG. Yes, there can be some notches on the back of the needle and the back of the needle can have hard edges. But this is still a better option than pulling the needle from the back because even after thorough cleaning you can still have residual color build up on the front of the needle which you are not aware of it and pulling it through back on regular basis will damage the internal seal for sure. Not to mention how easy it is to damage the tip of the needle by trying to push it through the back. The ball at the back of the needle is just a flawed design of that particular airbrush manufacturer.
Anyway airbrush parts like needles, nozzles, and seals do wear. This is why manufacturers offer them like spare parts. But to be honest I'm not quite sure if that particular internal seal that I mention earlier is replaceable. You have to check the manufacturer's specifications of your airbrush to be sure.
@@JohnLorac it is a seal, that is is job. It is CONSTANTLY doing that as the needle slides forward and back... Constantly... That is the life of the seal lol
You aren't hurting it more by sliding it back and letting the seal clean off the wet paint, but you will damage the seal dragging those rough edges across it. In fact, that is how mine failed. They don't fail anymore... Because I don't drag it through the front 😁
@@Nethezbet By residual color build up I meant DRIED paint. Sorry if that wasn't obvious. And with dried paint on the front of the needle trying to pull it through the back of the airbrush means damaging the seal for sure in the long term. And you can still sand off the rough edges on the back of the needle with sandpaper. If that's the case.
I'm using H&S and this is actually a recommended way how to remove needles from their airbrush. And yes, their's needles don't have rough edges at the back.
@@JohnLorac They have some deep grooves on the H&S (the whole back end is etched out), and NO, they do NOT recommend pulling the needle out the front. I even popped my H&S manual out because I thought "That sounds weird." Then I checked their online manuals. Stop making stuff up, lol.
During their cleaning directions they don't even pull the nozzle off before the needle (another risky move). You may want to check that out.
i do that actuaclly wow.
💧base in clean 👍
blast a load of isopropyl Alcohol 70% or higher at the end of a session (1 liter bottle cost 3$ ). shake while spraying and put the airpressure high. Great for breaking down dry acrylic paint in brushes as well.
I'm a bit of a hobbyist, and my wife surprised me this Christmas with an airbrush kit.
...and I'm already feeling intimidated and overwhelmed just by the apparently complicated cleaning process that's required. 😖
HELP! I've been away from the hobby for several years now, but I'm retired now, and have the time to jump back into it. My only experience with airbrushing was with the Aztek system. Well, much to my chagrin, it's no longer available and tips are now a thing of the past. So I'm asking if you or anyone else who can offer advice; what kind of airbrush would you recommend to a "beginner?"
My usual projects are automobiles and WW2 and Cold War aircraft.
I'm always going to recommend an iwata eclipse (just because it's my favorite) Excellent for everyone and great to learn with as well. The iwata revolution is also a great one that is a bit more forgiving for thicker paint- lower price too. The new harder and steenbeck ultra2024 is a very solid choice for beginners as well. Check those out! Hope this helps and best of luck.
@@theartworkshop I've seen the Iwata brand around for years, but I've always thought they were too expensive. But then, you get what you pay for.
Have you any thoughts on the "self- contained" airbrush/compressor combinations that seem to be on every other modeling page?
A few drops of isopropyl alcohol is useful if you're working with primers, metallics, varnishes. Those things can be more tricky to shift.
That one cup. Tip down to the right.
Thanks for this video, is great content!! Could you please help me understand one thing? I use to use my airbrush maybe omce or twice a week top, I also only use acrylic paints. I am used to deep clean it at the end of every session, but now I wonder if by doing so I am overdoing with cleaning. So my question is: how often should one deep clean an airbrush (i normally use a ultrasonic machine and cleaner). And when doing so, should I have to remove ALL parts? Thanks in advance for your help!!
thanks! You know I actually used to do the same. Back when I started I cleaned my airbrush too much and I think it was more harm than good. I'll have to make a full video on my cleaning process so stay tuned. Ultrasonic cleaners work well but I don't recommend them because one caused a small crack in my micron. I stopped using them after that.
@@theartworkshopthanks, a full video explaining all this would be incredible! Thanks for all you've done and continue to do for the airbrush artists community. Your videos are extremely well done and so much informative.. I'll stay tuned for the video! 💪
I’m in the UK and I’m not sure what reducer is? Would be great if someone could say? Personally I rinse my airbrushes through with car screen wash once it’s spraying clear I use a shop bought AB cleaner(Ultimate Modelling products AB cleaner) I spray and backwash a couple of cup fulls of that through - this is for in between colours. At the end of the build I undo the nozzle remove the needle and clean carefully with a thin dental brush( almost like a pipe cleaner) I finally give all the parts a wipe down with isopropyl swabs( pre injection swabs actually) and then I dab a small amount of iwata AB oil on the needle before re assembling. If I’ve used enamel based paint I repeat all of the above but initially use white spirit to wash the majority of the residual paint out.
Great advice - thank you.💜😊👍✌️
I tend to push the needle (after cleaning) back through from the front on my H&S airbrushes, I don't suppose it matters which way as long as the needle is clean?🤔🤞✌️👍
Money isn’t so much an issue, so I spray mine with brake parts cleaner, it’s pressurized and kicks ass! Thank you for the wonderful video!
I'm a newbie. I only started using an airbrush a few months ago but I do love it. At the moment I mainly use it on models but I am starting to explore art work in general. The question I have is that I have found 100% IPA to be an excellent way of cleaning the types of acrylic paints I use (mainly Tamiya). BUT, I rarely see or hear of IPA being used - is there a reason for this? Am I using something which is fundamentally bad for an airbrush?
Can anyone just say whether I should stop using IPA. I'm not after any kind of lengthy analysis but it would be good to get the opinion from some others about this cleaning method. Thank you in advance - I very much appreciate any help given.
Interesting. Could I use RO (reverse osmosis) water as well?
Yes, absolutely!
It's easier to clean the table of any paint spill (since they're acrylics) than to wash the cloth. But I get it, it looks better on camera.
Would using any kind of reducer work? I have some proline and my local shop has 4011 createx but no 4012
I use oil based enamel paints.
Hi, please tell me the difference between distilled and just normal tap water to to clean the airbrush. Thank you in advance!
Tap water is fine to quickly rinse/clean the airbrush. Distilled water is important if you leave it in the paint cup like I do because it is pure without any dissolved solids. Distilled or deionized water is also necessary for reducing water based paints.
Thanks a lot!@@theartworkshop
I had issues even after I thought I had it cleaned their be little left over paint that seize up the needle so now I come back couple hours after finishing and pull back on trigger few times to insure any paint that may be left doesn't stick the needle to the body.
What does it mean if you go to backflush your airbrush and instead of bubbling it just starts spitting stuff out of the cup?
Clogs HATE this guy!!!
Best cleaning solution cheap for acrylic paints I've found is windshield washer fluid and also use it to thin my acrylic paints...
Lots of good information thanks.
thanks Ken
I would like to know what procedure you follow when you get paint in the trigger mechanism, or in other words what cleaning after the accident like that looks like. Accidentally got paint in there the other day and flushed it out with the water, but I'm not sure if I were supposed to disassemble the piston and clean that too
I'd like to know why you do not recommend leaving the water in there longer. I've submersed mine in water for weeks at a time and never had a problem.
Great video. I can seem to find the video on cleaning your airbush and putting it away? What are the additional steps needed?
Hmm I clean my airbrush in a similar fashion but I was told to never spray the unused paint through it. I guess it doesn’t matter as long as the paint isn’t dry yet. Cool subbed!
No matter what way you keep your airbrush clean, I like to run hot water after painting then air dry. But this is a good idea I will try.
Do spray out pots work as well with lacquer? I know it's good to use a bit of water in bottom of pot when using water based paint. Seems inconvenient to do that with lacquer thinner.
That was a good video. I'm going to use your cleaning technique.
What are your thoughts on flushing out the airbrush with distilled water through the needle chucking nut like they do on the airbrush asylum channel? When I do it, I notice a lot of residue in my paint cup after the flushing.
Can you use 99% alcohol
Every time I see this? I'm thinking "crack pipe!" 😂😂
Thank you!
Great video. The cotton swab will never fall apart at all and leave pieces in the brush.
I clean mine in the bathroom sink with an old toothbrush and a paintbrush.
When I went to school 1 was used to describe a singular !!!
I hears my name at the end…thanks for taking time for the shout out. Michael Sorrell
Hey i just wounder why destilled water?
I like to use distilled or RO water because it's pure. I Don't want any of the dissolved solids in normal water within my paint. hope this helps.
Thanks! This trick worked great last nigh!
You have the softest Northeast American accent I've ever heard. I quite like listening to it!! I'd probably sound Texan hick to you lol. Anyway great content for a beginning airbrush aspiring artist.
thanks for the kind words. it's probably my microphone more than anything else! No, you wouldn't sound like a hick to me 🤣I love Texas and the southwest- it's a beautiful part of the country with amazing people. I wish you all the best in your paintings- Just stick with it.
I've just come across your videos. I've spent the morning watching then and found them extremely informative. I've now subscribed so I don't miss any. I'm just starting out but if I can achieve and become half as good as you I'll be very pleased.😊
hey thanks so much for the kind words, Roger. So happy to hear that. best of luck to you!
👍👍🎈🎈😁😁😄
awesome vid, great info, and that portrait looks amazing, wish i could something 1/10th as goo as that, even my stick figures look bad😅
thanks!!
Thank you for your helpful recommendations..💙🌻
Some advice please. I have a Badger Patriot with the standard needle. The brush seems to work intermittently and pulsates. The compressor is a tank type. Also when in use stain is released when I close the needle. It works for a few seconds then stops. The brush is and the stain is of the correct viscosity. Any advise would be greatly appreciated, Thanks,
sorry for the late reply. it could be a bunch of things, but the most common is some dried paint stuck in the nozzle. I'd clean it out the best I can and if it still doesn't work, the nozzle may be damaged. Replacing it almost also solves this type of problem for me. best of luck!
I leave water in the cup & forget about it. Been doing it for years & never had a problem. Sure, it evaporates but I never said the plan was perfect. lol
haha! thanks for sharing
They're a lot of folk doing this but I feel no one has a better jist on this as this guy .