I don't think I have watched a video this packed with info in years. You were no-nonsense, no product adverting, just raw knowledge! Thanks so much for sharing all of this wealth of information.
@@theartworkshop Amazingly solid video, I am looking to decant Games Workshop Paints into an airbrush, they maybe large pigments or medium wonder where i could get that info. Also I find for miniature painting, more Water may make the miniature untouchable for ease of paint coming off, how to find a balance of thin vs bonded to 28mm model? Many thanks :)
@@ReadyMack-g something like createx ULVS clear works well but I'm not a model painter so I'm not sure of the best options. Wish I could help you with this one!
@@theartworkshop Understandable , there are folk who do this but they don't spill much of the secret sauce of their concoction, how did you find the size of the pigments in your paints? please keep making great videos :)
Great video, I’ve been building models since I was a kid,and pretty good at it. I got into R/C im1990. I now want step up to airbrushing . I’m looking a precision all in one kit that includes gravity feed,
I have been watching airbrush videos for weeks and I just learned more in this short video than all the others together. This is a must watch if you're new to airbrushing. Straight forward, this has given me the answers to every question i needed answered. Thank you.
I've been using airbrushes for 40+ years and this is a great video. I thought I knew it all, so now I have to humble myself lol. It's come a long way from using a basic Badger with the propel cans lol. I never thought of using beeswax on the threads, that's a great idea!
I'm new to airbrushing and having these problems you mentioned, after watching this now I know what the problems are , I've bought acrylic paints Vallego Air I had no problems, then I bought Vallego model colour paint then I had all the problems you mentioned, I have now ordered proper airbrush paint,great tip about distilled water will definitely try that, your video is the best I have seen and have saved it as a future reference in case I have problems then I can check , many thanks for the info,👍
Just picked up an airbrush for miniature painting. There must be a thousand starter videos but this one set me straight on so many fundamentals. Thank you very much!
As a beginner I’m glad I found your channel. You give amazing insight into airbrushing. I haven’t started yet but after watching your channel you but me feel confident. Thanks you for your time and advice.
I've only ruined about three airbrushes before I learned half of this information. Great video. There is much to learn here. I'm still trying to master the paint thinning issue and the matter of cleaning the nozzle properly.
I am having a backflow issue and stumbled across this video. Haven’t tried deep cleaning my airbrush yet. I am surprised you mentioned that the ultrasonic was quite aggressive. I think this is somewhat of a misunderstanding. The parts while floating around might bump to the walls, but the sonicator can never cause the main body of an airbrush to bend. My advice is to put it in a small plastic container.
This is insanely informative. Just pure knowledge from someone who obviously has tons of real experience using the tools and finding optimizations in their workflow. Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏻
Thank you for the damn sold instructional tutorial! You have no idea how frustrating it was for a first time airbrush user to look for answers online like - why I am getting bubbles in the cup when I have cleaned it super well, and all the "Tutorial" videos online are about cleaning! Turned out an article pointed me to check for cracks, and yep, the bubbles in the cup because of over tightening of the nozzle that introduced the cracks. I wish I had your video back then.
All the airbrushing vids I have watched to solve my issue never has anyone said to release air from brush whilst setting compressor psi! I am going to be trying this tmrw and if it solves my speckling I owe you big time!
So when I press the trigger my psi drops from 30 to 0 and no matter how much I turn dial doesn’t change til I release the trigger?! Could this be the type of compressor I have?
@@GeorgeSlade1this may be partly because of the type of compressor you are using. I have always used the traditional kind with a tank and this technique works and is necessary. When not spraying, it's called static pressure in the lines. When you first hit the trigger you get that full static pressure for a second and then the working pressure kicks in. Working pressure is what you get as the air is moving, and this is what you want to adjust. Again, this is for compressors with a tank.
@@GeorgeSlade1 great!! Not much is more frustrating then getting everything all together and ready to paint, then not be able to get it to spray right!
Wow! Another great video from you! I'm new to airbrushing, so I've had just about all of these problems, in fact I "thought" I had cleaned out the brush well, 😩 and put it under a giant magnifying lamp(cuz it just wasnt spraying right) and with the tiny pointy nozzle cleaner thing, I pushed out a freakin GLOB of softened paint! I was also getting bubbles in the cup and that was caused on another brush by clogging, so many many thanks to you once again!!! Patty
Very informative and I really appreciate that you get to the point and don’t waste time talking about things that don’t need to be said like most videos do 👍👍👍
Such a wonderful video, with a clear language and only critical data. İ have been airbrushing for 10-15 years now and have’nt seen as such clear educating. Congrats bro.
Clean your paint bottle before closing it. That way you will not spend money on strainers and lose expensive paint stuck to the strainer and the cup you diluted in and he the cup you strain it into, etc etc.
To check for the smallest hook in the tip of a needle, you can pull it backward across your fingernail. If it's bent, it will scrape you fingernail instead of running perfectly smooth across it.
@@AirArtStudiosOfficialNever heard of Sharpenair before right now - thank you! That looks indispensable, especially if you're clumsy like me and moosh needles.
I've been spraying acetone through my (cheap, non-brand) airbrush for two years now. It's still holding up as well as when I first bought it, and that's despite me at one point taking the airbrush apart and dumping all the parts, including the O-rings, into acetone. This caused the O-rings to swell up a lot, but when the acetone evaporated, they went right back to normal. Personally I'd say - don't be afraid of spraying acetone through cheap airbrushes, but make sure that you aren't also taking the airbrush apart while doing so!
I had the opposite experience with paints. I started with acrylics and switched to lacquer (mainly Splash paints) for ease of use and durability. I spray gunpla so durability is a huge plus for me
Great stuff! Wish there were vids like this when I started 40 years ago . You hit on so many important things that can frustrate and ruin a beginners journey into airbrushing. Cheers Mark !
I award you the title of Awesome Video🏆. Some tips I have never seen, even though I have had an airbrush for over 20 years. Thank you. You have my subscription!
Hello and thank you very much for posting your video(s). I find them very helpful. I am hoping you could help me with a couple of questions. I have a smaller antique safe that was my grandfathers. The paint is badly worn off. I will be sanding the entire safe and I plan on repainting it and adding a bit of art. I have NEVER used an airbrush! I would appreciate any suggestions for the following: 1) what BLACK colored paint product to spray the entire safe with once it is sanded to bare steel? 2) what paint product to use in my air sprayer? 3) what paint product to spray over the entire safe, in order to give it a clear coat as protection for the black paint and the artwork? Thank you very much in advance, it is appreciated!
Hi- your video was very helpful and informative. Thank you. Can you tell me where you get the plastic bottles with the screw top? The one you have distilled water in?
Hi, fantastic video! Question, do you have any tips for making non airbrush specific paints work better? Particularly vallejo? I will definitely be picking up airbrush paint now after watching this because after WEEKS of research you are the only person ive found that talked about the pigment grain size being the difference between regular and airbrush acrylics and it makes total sense. I used to think it was just that they were pre-thinned. Now im stuck with a bunch of vallejo paint that i dont want to go to waste. Any tips on improving their performance other than what you covered here? Im getting a lot of starting and stopping, or the paint wont come out unless i pull the trigger all the way. Ive tried thinning every way and ratio possible, cleaning and deep cleaning only fixes it for a few seconds. Airbrush is Master airbrush G22.
Thanks! There is little that you can do to make a non airbrush paint spray like a high quality airbrush paint. Reducing and straining the paint will help, but it's nearly impossible to replicate the performance you'll get from an airbrush paint like golden high flow, createx, schmincke aero colors, etc. They make a world of difference! I would start with that, see if you can get your airbrush to perform well and then upgrade to a higher quality airbrush down the line. I learned on an inexpensive airbrush as well, and eventually upgraded to badger and an iwata. You'll noticed a pretty drastic performance increase using an airbrush paint with a higher end airbrush. The brand creos (Mr. Hobby) makes some outstanding airbrushes at a excellent price. Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Iwata, and Creos are my top 4 recommendations. Wishing you all the best on your airbrush journey!
I work in health care. Whenever I need little mixing cups, I just ask a nurse for a handful. My wife has perpetually dry eyes. Whenever I need dropper bottles I just ask her to save one for me. I need to get one of those tiny wrenches for my Iwata.
a quick question about this great video! :) when you clean the nozzle you write to be sure to retract the needle, but somewhere I read that it's much better not to make the needle go through the rear of the airbrush. Is that too much? thanks for sharing all of these infos! :)
The needle was designed to remove through the back of the airbrush. Before removing it through the back, make sure you flush out all of the paint within the cup so that nothing is pulled back through the body. Here is how I clean my airbrush before removing the needle- hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/qN1w-7ShK08/видео.html
First off, great video. My question is this. What is the negative affect of having a little air leakage at the head assembly? I've never heard anybody explain this. Obviously it's not supposed to leak but if it does what is the negative result? When air leaks at the point of connection between the hose and the airbrush the obvious negative affect is that your compressor is going to run periodically as the tank empties through the leak. No leak, not extra run time on the compressor. But what about at the tip?
Jay, you are a legend. I used to watch your videos on youtube all the time over a decade ago!! I agree, a very small air leak at the nozzle will have almost no effect on the spray characteristics. But I had a sotar 2020 long ago that had this persistent small nozzle air leak and I noticed constant irregularities. Things like spitting, a subtle angle of the spray pattern, and occasional graininess. Poor paint response too. Sealed it up and everything was right again. Maybe this was a one off, but ever since then it's become my airbrush pet peeve. The other thing is the small bubbles that form while painting if there is some cleaner anywhere on the nozzle. It drives me nuts. I want zero air leaks anywhere in my airline. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this! Thanks and hope all is well.
@@theartworkshop Oh my! Let me just say that I have become a huge fan of your videos and the fact that you were a regular watcher of mine (even back in the day) makes me very happy. So, I totally get you. There could be issues that it's causing but you don't know for sure but it's also annoying. Yup. That works for me. I've just been waiting for somebody to give me a solid "this issue causes this problem" for a long time and you are, right now, my authoritative source for airbrushing info.
@@theartworkshop I am a newbie but I have a nice H&S brush which I noticed had a leak around the nozzle. Tracked the problem down, and now sorted my brush seems a lot more consistent and a lot less annoying, meaning I feel like I can make some progress. So I'd agree with you on this one for sure. Cheers for a great video.
I wouldn't recommend it. You don't want that mixing with your paint. As long as you keep on top of cleaning the tip dry off, you'll be good to go. I clean it off every few minutes as im painting. Here is how I manage airbrush tip dry- hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/S9wRP1CHpbo/видео.html
I use the mr. Hobby tool cleaner product, it has acetic acid and other very strong solvents, its pretty good at dissolving paint without even using a brush but you need thick nitrile or chemical resistant gloves and very good ventilation (i can bearly smell gasoline and 100% ISO but i cant stand the strong odder so i either dont breath or use a activated carbon fiber respiratory. My airbrush has very little rubber gaskets inside so i can dunk the main section into an ultrasonic bath for a few minutes at low power. If the bubbles find a crack in the metal they will force expand them, this happens with layer lines on 3d resin models as well.
Just use Tamiya paint. It can be reduced with Alcohol Windshield wiper fluid or Lacquer thinner SUPER EASY PAINT TO USE It is so versatile and not extremely pricey, major color selection as well. Just my opinion...
Outstanding tutorial as always! Perhaps you can comment? Spraying with pre-mixed Createx Illustration/4011 mix with a new Iwata HP-AH produces *beautiful* fine lines . . . for about 30 minutes. It suddenly becomes unreliable spraying thick or splatter lines (as in your video). 10-12 psi, clean brush, checking for tip dry regularly but can't get it sorted. Any thoughts? Thanks for all you do.
the hp-ah is awesome! I love the no cup airbrushes so much, they just feel so comfortable. Well it could be a few things- first of all have you tried distilled water over the 4011? 4011 is great stuff but can be a bit odd at times (in my experience). I've had it clump up the paint and found that it dries too quickly. When it works its great but I'd recommend trying some distilled water for a few painting sessions and see if it helps. It could also be a small clog forming in the nozzle that just needs to be forced out by pressing down on the trigger and pulling all the way back. I do that all the time to clear any clogs. Also 10-12 psi is pretty low for me. Works great with highly reduced paints but found it more reliable around 20 psi or so. Hope this is helpful!
Thanks, @@theartworkshop ! Yeah, the AH is super awesome & I love using it. I'll use distilled water tonight and see how that goes. The psi was working well until the issue developed. I did attempt to blow out the clog, add additional paint, and up the psi (for a bit), but those methods weren't the solution. After watching your video, I did give it a thorough cleaning and discovered that I'm not sure how to remove the nozzle! There's always something! Thanks again!
Also just use carburetor cleaner to clean your airbrush it wont damage anything it can be sprayed threw brush this is for oil based paints, for acrylics use windshield wiper fluid works great wont hurt anything as well.
acetone is really best way to clean paint i try use that special airbrush cleaner but it works good only on primer if need clean paint then acetone and yes it make problems with seals but i just put them back in and keep use ! if you know what can replace acetone ( not that what you show in video i dont want damage my airbrush ) let me know because i need something effective like acetone for cleaning
Great video, but I have a question regarding the paints. Do you think using non airbrush paint (I use it to paint miniatures, so I use acrylic paint for miniatures, like citadel, vallejo, ak, army painter...) with an airbrush is too problematic? Or is it fine if I thin them down enough?
My recommendation is to stick with a paint designed for airbrushing. It just makes life so much easier because it will spray well and atomize correctly. Safety is a big concern as well. You don't want to atomize a pigment or solvent into the air that might be toxic or a danger to your health. Hope this helps!
I have problems with my Iwata Revolution. The thing works beautifully for about 5 minutes, then just starts sputtering all over the place. I've gone so far as to replace the nozzle and packing seal on it. The only way I can get it to work again is to do a deep clean on it, then use it again for 5 minutes. On the other hand, I have 2 airbrushes I bought from Harbor Freight for $20 and I have 0 issues with them. I've deep cleaned them maybe once in the last 6 months, and they work flawlessly every time.
Is your paint to thick, are you in hot climate? I’m in Australia and normally airbrush in workshop but working on a project outside just now and the temperature is evaporating the thinners or thickening the paint pretty quickly so it won’t flow properly.
@@seanpadgett3053I live in a cooler wet climate. When I first got it, I was living in a super dry warm climate. I've tried all different levels of thinning, and different brands of thinner. Even added retardant to it to keep it from drying. It's always the IWATA, and never the cheapo brushes.
Hola me encantan tus vídeos te quiero hacer una pregunta tengo un infiny y no me siento agusto con el quiero cambiar cual me recomendarías gracias soy de España Barcelona saludo
Quality of airbrush. I started with cheap unbranded ones and boy did they clog. I bought a Iwata and then a infinity (my main one now) they clog far fars less. I think its do to the better finish internally.
Holy Particles of Pigment! What about miniature painters like me? When we paint with brushes, we use paint intended for miniatures (Citadel, Reaper, Army Painter, Vallejo, etc.). These paints already have much finer pigments than regular craft paint. Yet, Vallejo and other manufacturers make paint especially for airbrushing. Do these paints have even finer pigment? Would it be easy to use miniature brush paint for airbrushing instead?
thank you! great content. i had my first two endeavors and boy were they a hassle. I was using primer and for the life of me could not get a clean flow for more than 5 sprays before i was clogged. i noticed the primer i was using was also drying on the inside of my cup within a minute. this made me think i wasn't diluting enough but i got to the point where my paint was so thin it would immediately run even when using transparently light coats and still drying on my cup. i checked pressure, cleaned a few times and diluted. could it be bad primer? (most likely just skill diff yeah? lol)
thanks! It's possible you have a bad primer, but it's rare. Happened to me a few times with varnish if I haven't used it for a while and it's been sitting around. Parts of it dry and begin to clump up. You can usually fix it by straining it and reducing it a bit more.
I know you don't have a Paasche AB turbo brush, or if you do you haven't had any videos on it, but when you're dealing with spray issues it's usually just a needle cleaning on the AB as the entire process is outside of the unit itself. For years I've only used denatured alcohol for brush cleaning. I know it doesn't cause any issues with the AB, but does it have any problems with seals or anything with other airbrushes like the ones you use? I have Iwata and Badger brushes and have not had any issues over the years. Thanks for another informative video.
AB Turbo's are notorious things to get around, but they can produce some fantastic results when they go good. I used one for a while, but never felt like it was the right tool for the job... Yes over time the seals will not be as good as of new, rubber deteriorates over time, going harder and some times swelling up. In the case of the Turbo it will be very small amounts, but as they are not big things to start with, a small crack or bit of swelling can make a lot of difference to performance... I switched to an Olimpos SPB which is what Iwata copied, I run it with an open needle, and in my book it out performs the AB ( they are hard to find )
Is alcohol okay to use as a cleaner? Also, what’s best to clean out enamels and oils? I’m actually getting INTO using enamels for weathering effects from AK Interactive. They’re just so damn good and ultra matte.
if there’s no ready made color that suits you, is possible to mix pigments with binders yourself? Or how about the shiny luster pigments, can DIY airbrush paint?
You can mix nearly any color with just red, blue, and yellow paints. No, I wouldn't ever make my own paints for airbrushing. For traditional brushed paint it's fine, but not a good idea for anything that is being sprayed.
I'm pretty sure most airbrushes today use solvent resistant o rings, so they shouldn't need to be replaced but every few years even with solvent based paints I think.
Thank you for your video. It was very helpful. I appreciate that you took your time to share this information. I will definitely subscribe to your channel. 👍🏽🙌🏽🔥
@@theartworkshop Yes I would like to see that. I am going to buy a new compressor soon as my original is so basic. Can you recommend me a good quiet one?
Thank you for this! Im newer to airbrush and my biggest issue is after about 20 miinutes of spraying, the paint becomes inconsistant. I use Wicked by Createx. SHould i switch to illustration? If im painting on helmets can do I have to add to the paint or will the clear coat I do over it protect it enough?
I would stick with wicked colors for that. illustration would need additives to make it stronger and is just extra work. What do you mean by inconsistent with the wicked colors?
I have some to sell that has been set up for use with airbrush if any one need! It just the perfect stuff even remplace cheap seal on cheaper airbrush with it!
Any videos on Tip dry or Clogging at the tip?. That's my problem. It collects so fast. It makes airbrushing such a head ache I haven't touched it In so long. It will collect in less than a minute in most cases.
I might have missed this and not sure if you still reply to commemts on this video, but any idea why an airbrush may be spraying paint only when the needle is in motion (while drawing the lever back and forth). I jave the iwata eclipse hp-cs and i have no idea why this ia going on. Ive stripped it down and hand cleaned everythinh. Im using Daler and Rowney FW aceylic ink and a psi of 30. The only think i can think is the needle may need to be replaced Ps: your videos are amazing. I wish id found these two years ago when i first began really using my airbrush again. My current beliwf is that airbrushes are amqzing 50% of the time and the other 50% of the time youll be cursing yhem out because SOMETHING is going wrong again. I feel like in a 6 hour session i spend atleast 2 hours fussing. Im going to get some pf the cleaning products youve recommended and follow your tips in the hope i can begin to actually enjoy the benefits of my airbrush and struggle less!
Thanks! Well an airbrush is supposed to spray paint when you're moving the needle. It's not supposed to spray paint when the needle is all the way forward, but any motion back will cause the needle to retract from the nozzle and spray paint. If you pull the needle back to a certain position and hold it there, is it still spraying paint or does it suddenly stop? Let me know, and I'll see if I can help you out.
@@theartworkshop The fishing is ok I been doing Charters. In Destin Florida deep sea fishing it’s good plenty of fish brother Mark. I haven’t airbrushed in a minute now something else have my attention at the moment. But I will get back to it because that’s my heart!!!🎣🎣🎣
Could air leaks also cause pulsating streams? I have a Badger Renegade Krome that's more or less brand new that refuses to give me a good solid line. I've deep cleaned it a half dozen times to no effect. What I finally came to the conclusion of is that nose cap seems to leak and needs to be tightened WAY down. This seems to lessen the pulsating issue but I can still feel air leaking out. So now I'm gonna go see if I can find some of that bees wax and see if that helps.
@@theartworkshop no no .. its cheap one (.Royal & Langnickel Acrylic Ink Primary 6 Pack). i think liquitex is good brand . i never tried it. officeworks do got some liquitex products ,like gesso and stuff, i want to try them but they bit expensive
I don't think I have watched a video this packed with info in years. You were no-nonsense, no product adverting, just raw knowledge! Thanks so much for sharing all of this wealth of information.
happy to hear it's helpful. Thanks!
@@theartworkshop Amazingly solid video, I am looking to decant Games Workshop Paints into an airbrush, they maybe large pigments or medium wonder where i could get that info. Also I find for miniature painting, more Water may make the miniature untouchable for ease of paint coming off, how to find a balance of thin vs bonded to 28mm model? Many thanks :)
@@ReadyMack-g something like createx ULVS clear works well but I'm not a model painter so I'm not sure of the best options. Wish I could help you with this one!
@@theartworkshop Understandable , there are folk who do this but they don't spill much of the secret sauce of their concoction, how did you find the size of the pigments in your paints? please keep making great videos :)
Great video, I’ve been building models since I was a kid,and pretty good at it. I got into R/C im1990. I now want step up to airbrushing . I’m looking a precision all in one kit that includes gravity feed,
I have been watching airbrush videos for weeks and I just learned more in this short video than all the others together. This is a must watch if you're new to airbrushing. Straight forward, this has given me the answers to every question i needed answered. Thank you.
happy to hear that. Thanks!
I have an airbrush sitting idle for months. Ive watched several of your videos and now Im painting!
I've been using airbrushes for 40+ years and this is a great video. I thought I knew it all, so now I have to humble myself lol. It's come a long way from using a basic Badger with the propel cans lol. I never thought of using beeswax on the threads, that's a great idea!
thanks so much man. Yeah, I feel like badger airbrushes benefit a lot from some beeswax on the treads. Awesome airbrushes though!
@@theartworkshop I bet that will help some of the budget airbrushes too
Tutorial was top tier and you taught me more than I have been able to find in weeks of research. 10/10 my new favorite painting channel
so glad to hear it. Thank you and best of luck with your painting!
I'm new to airbrushing and having these problems you mentioned, after watching this now I know what the problems are , I've bought acrylic paints Vallego Air I had no problems, then I bought Vallego model colour paint then I had all the problems you mentioned, I have now ordered proper airbrush paint,great tip about distilled water will definitely try that, your video is the best I have seen and have saved it as a future reference in case I have problems then I can check , many thanks for the info,👍
Miniatures? :)
😶🌫
Just picked up an airbrush for miniature painting. There must be a thousand starter videos but this one set me straight on so many fundamentals. Thank you very much!
happy to hear that- thank you!
As a beginner I’m glad I found your channel. You give amazing insight into airbrushing. I haven’t started yet but after watching your channel you but me feel confident. Thanks you for your time and advice.
Awesome to hear that- thank you back!
This video is fantastic. The PSI adjustment I would never have thought by using the airbrush while adjusting. Thank you!
thanks- happy it was helpful. an updated version of this video with be up this Friday, with a lot more info!
@@theartworkshop Yippee!!
Really appreciate your tips. I've never airbrushed but you've helped me feel I can do this!
so happy to hear that- thanks so much. You 100% can do this! wishing you all the best in your paintings
I've only ruined about three airbrushes before I learned half of this information. Great video. There is much to learn here. I'm still trying to master the paint thinning issue and the matter of cleaning the nozzle properly.
How do you ruin 3 airbrushes?
I am having a backflow issue and stumbled across this video. Haven’t tried deep cleaning my airbrush yet. I am surprised you mentioned that the ultrasonic was quite aggressive. I think this is somewhat of a misunderstanding. The parts while floating around might bump to the walls, but the sonicator can never cause the main body of an airbrush to bend. My advice is to put it in a small plastic container.
This is insanely informative. Just pure knowledge from someone who obviously has tons of real experience using the tools and finding optimizations in their workflow. Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏻
Glad it was helpful- Thanks so much!
Thank you for the damn sold instructional tutorial! You have no idea how frustrating it was for a first time airbrush user to look for answers online like - why I am getting bubbles in the cup when I have cleaned it super well, and all the
"Tutorial" videos online are about cleaning! Turned out an article pointed me to check for cracks, and yep, the bubbles in the cup because of over tightening of the nozzle that introduced the cracks. I wish I had your video back then.
thanks! it's too easy to break those small nozzles. I've broken my share as well
Great video with proper explanations rather than “do as I say” attitude. Very much, enjoyed watching this video.
thanks!
Best airbrush videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you for sharing
thanks so much!
Very simple and excellent tips. I never tried distilled water for dillute paint. I will, now!! THANKS A LOT!!! 😀👍👌
Great! You pack more useful info and actual explanations in 10 or 20 mins than I have seen in any of the lengthy air brush videos I have seen so far.
thanks! i try my best to edit them down to be as concise as possible
All the airbrushing vids I have watched to solve my issue never has anyone said to release air from brush whilst setting compressor psi! I am going to be trying this tmrw and if it solves my speckling I owe you big time!
So when I press the trigger my psi drops from 30 to 0 and no matter how much I turn dial doesn’t change til I release the trigger?! Could this be the type of compressor I have?
@@GeorgeSlade1this may be partly because of the type of compressor you are using. I have always used the traditional kind with a tank and this technique works and is necessary. When not spraying, it's called static pressure in the lines. When you first hit the trigger you get that full static pressure for a second and then the working pressure kicks in. Working pressure is what you get as the air is moving, and this is what you want to adjust. Again, this is for compressors with a tank.
@@dougmulle2627 thanks for all the help, I may look into a new compressor although I think I have this one working well now!
@@GeorgeSlade1 great!! Not much is more frustrating then getting everything all together and ready to paint, then not be able to get it to spray right!
Agreed, I seriously think this is the first video I've ever seen that showed how to do this
Wow! Another great video from you! I'm new to airbrushing, so I've had just about all of these problems, in fact I "thought" I had cleaned out the brush well, 😩 and put it under a giant
magnifying lamp(cuz it just wasnt spraying right) and with the tiny pointy nozzle cleaner thing, I pushed out a freakin GLOB of softened paint! I was also getting bubbles in the cup and that was caused on another brush by clogging, so many many thanks to you once again!!! Patty
Very informative and I really appreciate that you get to the point and don’t waste time talking about things that don’t need to be said like most videos do 👍👍👍
I appreciate that- thanks so much!
Such a wonderful video, with a clear language and only critical data. İ have been airbrushing for 10-15 years now and have’nt seen as such clear educating. Congrats bro.
I really appreciate that- thank you so much!
This is a great set of tips, your ability to logical present a set of steps to solve a problem with an airbrush is unmatched.
I try my best. thanks so much
Clear, concise, in depth yet brief at 20 minutes. Masterful!
thanks so much!
Concise, clean, a perfect tutorial.
Clean your paint bottle before closing it. That way you will not spend money on strainers and lose expensive paint stuck to the strainer and the cup you diluted in and he the cup you strain it into, etc etc.
Thank you. I watched many videos trying to figure out my issues. this was extremely informative and well done. Thanks
Glad it helped!
Yet another great video with crystal clear info. Thank you again for all your support within the airbrush community!
always appreciated Ryan. Thanks so much man!
To check for the smallest hook in the tip of a needle, you can pull it backward across your fingernail. If it's bent, it will scrape you fingernail instead of running perfectly smooth across it.
Then get a sharpen air to fix it! Amazing tool
@@AirArtStudiosOfficialNever heard of Sharpenair before right now - thank you! That looks indispensable, especially if you're clumsy like me and moosh needles.
I've been spraying acetone through my (cheap, non-brand) airbrush for two years now. It's still holding up as well as when I first bought it, and that's despite me at one point taking the airbrush apart and dumping all the parts, including the O-rings, into acetone. This caused the O-rings to swell up a lot, but when the acetone evaporated, they went right back to normal.
Personally I'd say - don't be afraid of spraying acetone through cheap airbrushes, but make sure that you aren't also taking the airbrush apart while doing so!
A keeper, straight to my 'airbrush' folder. Thankyou doctor.
🤣🤣 thanks! glad it's helpful
2 minutes in and I already heard an explanation on paint nobody else has provided.
This is gold, so much good solid info here
happy to hear it- thank you!
I had the opposite experience with paints. I started with acrylics and switched to lacquer (mainly Splash paints) for ease of use and durability. I spray gunpla so durability is a huge plus for me
Great stuff! Wish there were vids like this when I started 40 years ago . You hit on so many important things that can frustrate and ruin a beginners journey into airbrushing. Cheers Mark !
Thanks so much. Hopefully it's helpful to some of new painters out there. Cheers Duane!
Excellent tutorial. Useful information for any skill level. I think of you as the "Bob Ross" of airbrushing. Thank you
🤣🤣 thanks Mark
I award you the title of Awesome Video🏆. Some tips I have never seen, even though I have had an airbrush for over 20 years.
Thank you. You have my subscription!
appreciate that man. thanks!
Sweet. I'm using distilled water for thinner. I tried alcohol and washer fluid but didn't like the stink or the safety hazard.
Hello and thank you very much for posting your video(s). I find them very helpful. I am hoping you could help me with a couple of questions. I have a smaller antique safe that was my grandfathers. The paint is badly worn off. I will be sanding the entire safe and I plan on repainting it and adding a bit of art. I have NEVER used an airbrush! I would appreciate any suggestions for the following:
1) what BLACK colored paint product to spray the entire safe with once it is sanded to bare steel?
2) what paint product to use in my air sprayer?
3) what paint product to spray over the entire safe, in order to give it a clear coat as protection for the black paint and the artwork?
Thank you very much in advance, it is appreciated!
Hi- your video was very helpful and informative. Thank you. Can you tell me where you get the plastic bottles with the screw top? The one you have distilled water in?
Thanks! They are called 1oz plastic dropper bottles. I buy them on amazon!
Hi, fantastic video! Question, do you have any tips for making non airbrush specific paints work better? Particularly vallejo? I will definitely be picking up airbrush paint now after watching this because after WEEKS of research you are the only person ive found that talked about the pigment grain size being the difference between regular and airbrush acrylics and it makes total sense. I used to think it was just that they were pre-thinned. Now im stuck with a bunch of vallejo paint that i dont want to go to waste. Any tips on improving their performance other than what you covered here? Im getting a lot of starting and stopping, or the paint wont come out unless i pull the trigger all the way. Ive tried thinning every way and ratio possible, cleaning and deep cleaning only fixes it for a few seconds. Airbrush is Master airbrush G22.
Thanks! There is little that you can do to make a non airbrush paint spray like a high quality airbrush paint. Reducing and straining the paint will help, but it's nearly impossible to replicate the performance you'll get from an airbrush paint like golden high flow, createx, schmincke aero colors, etc. They make a world of difference! I would start with that, see if you can get your airbrush to perform well and then upgrade to a higher quality airbrush down the line. I learned on an inexpensive airbrush as well, and eventually upgraded to badger and an iwata. You'll noticed a pretty drastic performance increase using an airbrush paint with a higher end airbrush. The brand creos (Mr. Hobby) makes some outstanding airbrushes at a excellent price. Badger, Harder & Steenbeck, Iwata, and Creos are my top 4 recommendations. Wishing you all the best on your airbrush journey!
I work in health care. Whenever I need little mixing cups, I just ask a nurse for a handful. My wife has perpetually dry eyes. Whenever I need dropper bottles I just ask her to save one for me. I need to get one of those tiny wrenches for my Iwata.
a quick question about this great video! :)
when you clean the nozzle you write to be sure to retract the needle, but somewhere I read that it's much better not to make the needle go through the rear of the airbrush. Is that too much?
thanks for sharing all of these infos! :)
The needle was designed to remove through the back of the airbrush. Before removing it through the back, make sure you flush out all of the paint within the cup so that nothing is pulled back through the body. Here is how I clean my airbrush before removing the needle- hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/qN1w-7ShK08/видео.html
@@theartworkshop thank you!!
First off, great video. My question is this. What is the negative affect of having a little air leakage at the head assembly? I've never heard anybody explain this. Obviously it's not supposed to leak but if it does what is the negative result? When air leaks at the point of connection between the hose and the airbrush the obvious negative affect is that your compressor is going to run periodically as the tank empties through the leak. No leak, not extra run time on the compressor. But what about at the tip?
Jay, you are a legend. I used to watch your videos on youtube all the time over a decade ago!!
I agree, a very small air leak at the nozzle will have almost no effect on the spray characteristics. But I had a sotar 2020 long ago that had this persistent small nozzle air leak and I noticed constant irregularities. Things like spitting, a subtle angle of the spray pattern, and occasional graininess. Poor paint response too. Sealed it up and everything was right again. Maybe this was a one off, but ever since then it's become my airbrush pet peeve. The other thing is the small bubbles that form while painting if there is some cleaner anywhere on the nozzle. It drives me nuts. I want zero air leaks anywhere in my airline. I'd love to hear your thoughts on this! Thanks and hope all is well.
@@theartworkshop Oh my! Let me just say that I have become a huge fan of your videos and the fact that you were a regular watcher of mine (even back in the day) makes me very happy.
So, I totally get you. There could be issues that it's causing but you don't know for sure but it's also annoying. Yup. That works for me. I've just been waiting for somebody to give me a solid "this issue causes this problem" for a long time and you are, right now, my authoritative source for airbrushing info.
@@theartworkshop I am a newbie but I have a nice H&S brush which I noticed had a leak around the nozzle. Tracked the problem down, and now sorted my brush seems a lot more consistent and a lot less annoying, meaning I feel like I can make some progress. So I'd agree with you on this one for sure. Cheers for a great video.
Have you tried acrylic inks like Liquitex? They spray superb right out of the bottle
yes, they are excellent! I used to paint with them all the time. Liquitex is one of my fav paint manufacturers.
New to all this so I found the video a great help.
Glad it was helpful- thanks!
I use isopropyl alcohol to clean my airbrush and it works great
Great video for tip dry is it true rain x will help with tip dry ?
I wouldn't recommend it. You don't want that mixing with your paint. As long as you keep on top of cleaning the tip dry off, you'll be good to go. I clean it off every few minutes as im painting. Here is how I manage airbrush tip dry- hope this helps! ruclips.net/video/S9wRP1CHpbo/видео.html
@theartworkshop appreciate it buddy
Thank you for the tips! Everything is super useful, always a pleasure to watch your really well produced videos!
i appreciate that. thank you!
I use the mr. Hobby tool cleaner product, it has acetic acid and other very strong solvents, its pretty good at dissolving paint without even using a brush but you need thick nitrile or chemical resistant gloves and very good ventilation (i can bearly smell gasoline and 100% ISO but i cant stand the strong odder so i either dont breath or use a activated carbon fiber respiratory. My airbrush has very little rubber gaskets inside so i can dunk the main section into an ultrasonic bath for a few minutes at low power. If the bubbles find a crack in the metal they will force expand them, this happens with layer lines on 3d resin models as well.
Mighty advice...thankyou...
Vallejo Model Air or Game Air are good options for anyone who airbrush scale models or 3D prints.
Thank you for the tips. I just started airbrushing myself and you have opened my eyes to how important it is to use dedicated paints for airbrushing.
Glad it was helpful- Best of luck!
Just use Tamiya paint. It can be reduced with Alcohol Windshield wiper fluid or Lacquer thinner SUPER EASY PAINT TO USE It is so versatile and not extremely pricey, major color selection as well. Just my opinion...
Great sound advise for sure and a great video.
Thank you very much for your efforts in making this. Tons of great info. Keep up the good work.
SO helpful! Thank you
Excellent. Thank you.
Thank you saved my Career!!!!❤🥂🍾👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 I just subscribed!!!!
Outstanding tutorial as always!
Perhaps you can comment? Spraying with pre-mixed Createx Illustration/4011 mix with a new Iwata HP-AH produces *beautiful* fine lines . . . for about 30 minutes. It suddenly becomes unreliable spraying thick or splatter lines (as in your video). 10-12 psi, clean brush, checking for tip dry regularly but can't get it sorted. Any thoughts? Thanks for all you do.
the hp-ah is awesome! I love the no cup airbrushes so much, they just feel so comfortable. Well it could be a few things- first of all have you tried distilled water over the 4011? 4011 is great stuff but can be a bit odd at times (in my experience). I've had it clump up the paint and found that it dries too quickly. When it works its great but I'd recommend trying some distilled water for a few painting sessions and see if it helps. It could also be a small clog forming in the nozzle that just needs to be forced out by pressing down on the trigger and pulling all the way back. I do that all the time to clear any clogs. Also 10-12 psi is pretty low for me. Works great with highly reduced paints but found it more reliable around 20 psi or so. Hope this is helpful!
Thanks, @@theartworkshop !
Yeah, the AH is super awesome & I love using it. I'll use distilled water tonight and see how that goes. The psi was working well until the issue developed.
I did attempt to blow out the clog, add additional paint, and up the psi (for a bit), but those methods weren't the solution.
After watching your video, I did give it a thorough cleaning and discovered that I'm not sure how to remove the nozzle! There's always something!
Thanks again!
Also just use carburetor cleaner to clean your airbrush it wont damage anything it can be sprayed threw brush this is for oil based paints, for acrylics use windshield wiper fluid works great wont hurt anything as well.
Thank you for another video of learning.
you are most welcome!
What's your knowledge on silicone paint with the airbrush.
Excellent video!!!
acetone is really best way to clean paint i try use that special airbrush cleaner but it works good only on primer if need clean paint then acetone and yes it make problems with seals but i just put them back in and keep use ! if you know what can replace acetone ( not that what you show in video i dont want damage my airbrush ) let me know because i need something effective like acetone for cleaning
Great video, but I have a question regarding the paints. Do you think using non airbrush paint (I use it to paint miniatures, so I use acrylic paint for miniatures, like citadel, vallejo, ak, army painter...) with an airbrush is too problematic? Or is it fine if I thin them down enough?
My recommendation is to stick with a paint designed for airbrushing. It just makes life so much easier because it will spray well and atomize correctly. Safety is a big concern as well. You don't want to atomize a pigment or solvent into the air that might be toxic or a danger to your health. Hope this helps!
Thanks for all the tips. I appreciate it🤙🏽
I have problems with my Iwata Revolution.
The thing works beautifully for about 5 minutes, then just starts sputtering all over the place. I've gone so far as to replace the nozzle and packing seal on it. The only way I can get it to work again is to do a deep clean on it, then use it again for 5 minutes.
On the other hand, I have 2 airbrushes I bought from Harbor Freight for $20 and I have 0 issues with them. I've deep cleaned them maybe once in the last 6 months, and they work flawlessly every time.
Is your paint to thick, are you in hot climate? I’m in Australia and normally airbrush in workshop but working on a project outside just now and the temperature is evaporating the thinners or thickening the paint pretty quickly so it won’t flow properly.
@@seanpadgett3053I live in a cooler wet climate. When I first got it, I was living in a super dry warm climate.
I've tried all different levels of thinning, and different brands of thinner. Even added retardant to it to keep it from drying.
It's always the IWATA, and never the cheapo brushes.
Can someone recommend a good acrylic airbrush ready paint that would work best for nail art? Thank you
Super Video vielen lieben Dank 👍
Repair and polish. I expect a well polished one to be better than a new. I looked pretty rough to me.
Hola me encantan tus vídeos te quiero hacer una pregunta tengo un infiny y no me siento agusto con el quiero cambiar cual me recomendarías gracias soy de España Barcelona saludo
Quality of airbrush. I started with cheap unbranded ones and boy did they clog. I bought a Iwata and then a infinity (my main one now) they clog far fars less. I think its do to the better finish internally.
Holy Particles of Pigment! What about miniature painters like me? When we paint with brushes, we use paint intended for miniatures (Citadel, Reaper, Army Painter, Vallejo, etc.). These paints already have much finer pigments than regular craft paint. Yet, Vallejo and other manufacturers make paint especially for airbrushing. Do these paints have even finer pigment? Would it be easy to use miniature brush paint for airbrushing instead?
Vallejo makes a very good airbrush paint. They make great paint in general. I'm not sure about the others- never used them before.
just getting into airbrushing... bookmarked this video
thank you! great content.
i had my first two endeavors and boy were they a hassle. I was using primer and for the life of me could not get a clean flow for more than 5 sprays before i was clogged. i noticed the primer i was using was also drying on the inside of my cup within a minute. this made me think i wasn't diluting enough but i got to the point where my paint was so thin it would immediately run even when using transparently light coats and still drying on my cup. i checked pressure, cleaned a few times and diluted. could it be bad primer? (most likely just skill diff yeah? lol)
thanks! It's possible you have a bad primer, but it's rare. Happened to me a few times with varnish if I haven't used it for a while and it's been sitting around. Parts of it dry and begin to clump up. You can usually fix it by straining it and reducing it a bit more.
@theartworkshop thanks, maybe ill try that! It's happened two more times since but I just purchased the stuff. Maybe its the type 🤔
I know you don't have a Paasche AB turbo brush, or if you do you haven't had any videos on it, but when you're dealing with spray issues it's usually just a needle cleaning on the AB as the entire process is outside of the unit itself. For years I've only used denatured alcohol for brush cleaning. I know it doesn't cause any issues with the AB, but does it have any problems with seals or anything with other airbrushes like the ones you use? I have Iwata and Badger brushes and have not had any issues over the years. Thanks for another informative video.
denatured or Isopropyl alcohol are excellent cleaners. As long as the rubber o-rings are soaking in it for a while, I've never had any problems.
AB Turbo's are notorious things to get around, but they can produce some fantastic results when they go good. I used one for a while, but never felt like it was the right tool for the job... Yes over time the seals will not be as good as of new, rubber deteriorates over time, going harder and some times swelling up. In the case of the Turbo it will be very small amounts, but as they are not big things to start with, a small crack or bit of swelling can make a lot of difference to performance... I switched to an Olimpos SPB which is what Iwata copied, I run it with an open needle, and in my book it out performs the AB ( they are hard to find )
Is alcohol okay to use as a cleaner? Also, what’s best to clean out enamels and oils? I’m actually getting INTO using enamels for weathering effects from AK Interactive. They’re just so damn good and ultra matte.
Great Tips Mark! 👍
Thanks JC!
Is siphon or gravity witch work better. Just asking. I use siphon multiple cups I like. Gravity one cup?
Thank you for the essential Video🙏
My pleasure!
if there’s no ready made color that suits you, is possible to mix pigments with binders yourself? Or how about the shiny luster pigments, can DIY airbrush paint?
You can mix nearly any color with just red, blue, and yellow paints. No, I wouldn't ever make my own paints for airbrushing. For traditional brushed paint it's fine, but not a good idea for anything that is being sprayed.
Do you use naptha with your air brush.
Great Video. I took notes. :)
Had to lol becuase as a mini painter I frequently recommend brands like Golden as a way for mini painters to get cheaper paints!
I'm pretty sure most airbrushes today use solvent resistant o rings, so they shouldn't need to be replaced but every few years even with solvent based paints I think.
Thank you for your video. It was very helpful. I appreciate that you took your time to share this information. I will definitely subscribe to your channel. 👍🏽🙌🏽🔥
Glad it was helpful!
Does cooled pre-boiled water have the same effect as distilled water?
Unfortunately it does not. Pre boiling is good for sanitizing water but doesn't removed any of the dissolved solids. hope this helps!
How do you find a silent compressor? That would be amazing.
i built it myself. basically a soundproof box for my compressor. maybe i'll make a video of it someday
@@theartworkshop Yes I would like to see that. I am going to buy a new compressor soon as my original is so basic. Can you recommend me a good quiet one?
Thank you for this! Im newer to airbrush and my biggest issue is after about 20 miinutes of spraying, the paint becomes inconsistant. I use Wicked by Createx. SHould i switch to illustration? If im painting on helmets can do I have to add to the paint or will the clear coat I do over it protect it enough?
I would stick with wicked colors for that. illustration would need additives to make it stronger and is just extra work. What do you mean by inconsistent with the wicked colors?
I have some to sell that has been set up for use with airbrush if any one need! It just the perfect stuff even remplace cheap seal on cheaper airbrush with it!
I have also sprayed Acetone a ton through my airbrush.. How do I know if i ruined it?
How long will unopened paint last?
Great video thanks
you are most welcome. thank you back!
Any videos on Tip dry or Clogging at the tip?. That's my problem. It collects so fast. It makes airbrushing such a head ache I haven't touched it In so long. It will collect in less than a minute in most cases.
i actually have a video on tip dry planned! Someday for sure.
Good video
I might have missed this and not sure if you still reply to commemts on this video, but any idea why an airbrush may be spraying paint only when the needle is in motion (while drawing the lever back and forth). I jave the iwata eclipse hp-cs and i have no idea why this ia going on. Ive stripped it down and hand cleaned everythinh. Im using Daler and Rowney FW aceylic ink and a psi of 30. The only think i can think is the needle may need to be replaced
Ps: your videos are amazing. I wish id found these two years ago when i first began really using my airbrush again. My current beliwf is that airbrushes are amqzing 50% of the time and the other 50% of the time youll be cursing yhem out because SOMETHING is going wrong again. I feel like in a 6 hour session i spend atleast 2 hours fussing. Im going to get some pf the cleaning products youve recommended and follow your tips in the hope i can begin to actually enjoy the benefits of my airbrush and struggle less!
Thanks! Well an airbrush is supposed to spray paint when you're moving the needle. It's not supposed to spray paint when the needle is all the way forward, but any motion back will cause the needle to retract from the nozzle and spray paint. If you pull the needle back to a certain position and hold it there, is it still spraying paint or does it suddenly stop? Let me know, and I'll see if I can help you out.
I love the tutorial brother Mark.!!!🎣🎣🎣
Thanks Michael! Hows the fishing going this year man?
@@theartworkshop The fishing is ok I been doing Charters. In Destin Florida deep sea fishing it’s good plenty of fish brother Mark. I haven’t airbrushed in a minute now something else have my attention at the moment. But I will get back to it because that’s my heart!!!🎣🎣🎣
@@michaelthompson1185 that is awesome. deep sea seems very difficult! Happy to hear your getting back into painting my friend. Be well.
Could air leaks also cause pulsating streams? I have a Badger Renegade Krome that's more or less brand new that refuses to give me a good solid line. I've deep cleaned it a half dozen times to no effect. What I finally came to the conclusion of is that nose cap seems to leak and needs to be tightened WAY down. This seems to lessen the pulsating issue but I can still feel air leaking out. So now I'm gonna go see if I can find some of that bees wax and see if that helps.
it's possible, but unlikely. Pulsating is usually something with the compressor or air lines.
hello, does the createx colors 4012 reducer works on lacquer and acrylics solvent based like Tamyia paint or only water-based paints? thank you.
i tried artist acrylic ink .. and found it tend to tip dry alot more quicker
the liquitex ink? I used to really like that paint. I need to test it out again someday
@@theartworkshop no no .. its cheap one (.Royal & Langnickel Acrylic Ink Primary 6 Pack). i think liquitex is good brand . i never tried it. officeworks do got some liquitex products ,like gesso and stuff, i want to try them but they bit expensive