Ive been airbrushing for only about 2 years with a $30 amazon one, and it has been a great learning tool. I got my new Evo ~3 weeks ago and it has absolutely exceeded all expectations. What an incredible difference! Thank you for the amazing product (and great content!)
Ordered my Ultra today 😁 never used one before, watched a lot of how to videos, spoke to a few shops and the Ultra I feel is exactly what I needed, start learning good habits correctly 👍 can't wait to start my journey learning airbrushing miniatures, keep up the fantastic videos they are so easy to follow 👍 thanks
Love the check your snot advise on masking-up. Lighting I recommend 5500 to 6000 kelvin light sources. I have read that halogen produces the most natural light, but I don't have the expertise to really verify that on my own. I think full spectrum is preferable to daylight spectrum light sources as well.
You should use a mask regardless of your setup. However what kind of mask depends on what you are spraying. Water-based acrylics fill the air with micro plastic dust, a P2 or P3 filter would be best. Everyone should still have some of these FFP2 masks. Enamels, alcohol-bases (yes, inks too) should additionaly have A2 protection. Those are filters with a brown ring (A-grades) and a white ring (P-grades). Do yourself a favor and wear one.
Thank you for all the very informative videos you’ve been posting on RUclips. I’ve been a Infinity user for the past few years but have always wondered about your other airbrush models. Hoping you can do a video describing the different models and their individual strengths/advantages. Thanks again!
More great useful content✌️👍💜☹️ Don't forget a small spray booth and/or the CORRECT type of mask for the paint/particulate being used/expelled by the airbrush. One must be very wary of solvent based paints too. For quick jobs, I have a small, portable, pulse free, receiverless (without cylinder) compressor, works up to 25psi and is great for remote use or quick jobs (very little to no moisture generated). Otherwise I have a larger compressor in the garage, on wheels, with a receiver and moisture trap and a miniature version of the same indoors. None of them were very expensive and they all work well. Remember to always drain the receiver of moisture at the end of the painting session. Enjoy✌️👍💜😊
I built a spray booth out of foamboard. Can erect when i need it and dissemble when I’m done. Basically an 8 1/2 x 11 inch box. So it doesn’t have to be expensive to work.
@@harderairbrush I rarely spray solvents these days, if I do it's outdoors or in garage with booth and plenty of ventilation. I've also FFP2 and FFP3 masks. In past careers I've breasted in too much cr@p - best kit I used in the end was air fed, Eg for welding etc.
@@nittneylion84 I agree, if you're DIY adept it can be done, if spraying solvents though one has to choose the right motor, that won't generate sparks etc. If spraying acrylics one doesn't need to vent to air, put vent hose, in/on a sealed bucket lid with small vent holes and water and after initial filtration that will mop up any airbrush cleaner/thinner smells (like a giant AB discharge/cleaning pot)✌️👍💜😊
@@harderairbrush on hold at the moment mate as you know the uk weather has been awful !! Dont want to mess up at this stage because of the heat my heating system in my studio is very basic just waiting now for the temp outside to warm up by a few degrees 😉😉😉😉
By the way when I was painting helmets in the winter, I made a rotary stand with a 60w bulb 💡 on it which fitted inside the helmet. The piece was nice and warm after 20 minutes and it was also great for curing clear coat over night.
Thank you for these videos, they’ve really attracted me to the brand. My next airbrush purchase will be a H&S. The hard part will be choosing which one!
Bought the new Evolution Car plus Squidmar edition. I love it and I’ve been learning a lot. Switched the needle and nozzle to the .15mm for fine highlights on miniatures. Now I have inconsistent spitting from the air brush and loss of paint atomization, even after cleaning. Can’t seem to figure out what I might be doing wrong. Any suggestions would be great.
Love these videos you are making, it has made me want to start using an airbrush again. just ordered the ultra 2024, looking forward to get it :) primarily be using it for priming and base coating miniatures.
LOVE those comments! I'm really happy that it's made you want to pick it up again! Thanks for letting us know :-) airbrushing is so magical if we can just overcome the initial concerns about difficulty - it's really not and just needs a bit of advice and support to avoid the early pitfalls, and once you're past them, it's on like Donkey Kong! BUT please, challenge yourself beyond priming and basing - the airbrush is SUCH a beautiful tool for picking out the play of light on relief on miniatures - I've tried to highlight this in the video painting the Age of Sigmar Dragon. Hope that pushes you along a little more!
@@harderairbrush hehe yeah I have a challenge in mind, that i want to be able to master someday, and that is when i paint skin is to use a airbrush to make the transition from darker to lighter more smooth rather than hours of glasing with a brush :)
Well you've picked up the right tool! Take some time to learn from airbrushes who are painting on canvas too - lots of content about that on here... Portrait artists of course specialise in that.
You doing these vids are great . I think your the only manufacturer that does them directly . Not surprising tho , H&S is the industry leading manufacturer. I have had quite a few airbrushes in my past , the New Utlra i got in late November, is easily the best brush ive had . Over Iwata , over Paasche. Keep it up guys
Awesome to hear that Steve! Anyone who rides Gas Gas has good taste, though, naturally. I started out with Paasche by the way - my first airbrush was the legendary VL. Glad you're enjoying your ULTRA! W
I do have a Question: Did H&S ever consider to release an airbrush model with a trigger mechanism (like the Iwata NEO TR1/2)? The reason I am asking is that I am partially disabled having a very much reduced sense of touch anf therefore sometimes have difficulties using a standard dualaction mechanism. Currently I own an Evolution and an Inifinity and would rather like to stay with H&S airbrushes and dual action systems. Thank You for Your time and best regards, Helmut Rohrer
I really wish they would come out with a pistol grip. I made this comment back when the Ultra 2024 came out. The thing is targeted at a group of artists who would almost never even use a dual stage trigger. A pistol grip is so much more ergonomic. I can't use the dual stage triggers for more than very short (30 minute top) sessions at a time before it really hurts my hand but I can go hours with my crappy Ghaaleri pistol grip brush. I love everything about the Ultra 2024 enough to suffer with the trigger but yeah I really wish they would make a pistol grip.
Just a comment about using water as thinner - where I live the tap water is incredibly hard, looking at my taps (faucets?) and my kettle etc, I know there are enough tiny invisible rocks in my water to want to pass it through an investment piece airbrush. The auto parts store sells 1 litre bottles of de-ionised water for like 3 bucks, and it basically comes wirh a dropper bottle cap as well. The kind for topping up old car batteries and for steam irons - NOT the scented ironing liquids which definitely have other stuff in there. Everyone working with acrylics ahould have a bottle of this stuff, it's super cheap and it's perfect for rehydrating those old dehydrated paints (looking at you Citadel) - I agree with you Warwick thinners and air brush cleaner are essential but if you are looking to use water for any reason this stuff is super cheap and readily available. Thanks for making these videos, it's super helpful and really says a lot about H+S as a company that you take the time to do this 👍🏻
I always use distilled water in everything related to my painting, from the water in my booth's circulation down to the cups I use for thinning and washing. Distilled water is cheap, couple bucks a gallon, and I already buy it regularly for my CPAP machine anyway.
Hey Mark - nope. I don't see why :-) For me, the method in the ULTRA video is really the only one worth doing. It is so quick, that what's the point of doing anything else, when the results from that method are so comprehensive.
i learned airbrushing by myself during COVID and 2 years later i am still discovering new stuff like the "Giraldez" tip to just dip the airbrush in water directly while working. All tips about drying tip where also very usefull. I started my journey with a infinity, and i just bought the new ultra and Evolution, and looking back, i regret that i didnt have the ultra at the start, i took so many bad habits.@@harderairbrush
I've had an ultra and evolution aluminum an evolution silver line and evolution CR plus amazing airbrushes especially the aluminum version was like you didn't have anything in your hand however every single one every time after I sprayed paint flushed Airbrush out with thinner and or cleaner whatever medium I was using the next time I go to use it in a needle is frozenmeaning there is paint getting back through even after replacing the bushings
Thanks for the question! I’m happy to tell you two things - one, we solved that about a year ago, and two, it doesn’t mean paint is leaking… Basically it was a machining limitation that we had in terms of how deep we could set the needle bearing into the body. Previously we could not set the needle bearing directly at the back of the cup, but had to have it closer to the trigger slot. This meant that there was always this difficult to clean channel behind the cup, but before the needle seal. Now, with the new machines that we have, we are able to position that seal optimally ie directly behind the cup, and consequently this issue is totally solved on all airbrushes for around a year or so. The 2024 models are even further optimised with some other tweaks which I would prefer not to disclose as no-one else has figured them out yet 😉 the cleaning on the 2024 airbrushes is incredibly fast and comprehensive with only two flushes.
@@harderairbrush oh ,thanks a lot ,that explains it .however I wish I didn't sell them al.l I really miss that aluminum version that was an amazing Airbrush ,however the evolution CR plus that was the smoothest Airbrush I've ever touched
Water works with acrylics, but if you use a lot of solvent based paints then you need to use the right solvent for that paint, lacquer, enamel, acrylic lacquer and other once, i use the Zero paints a lot on my scalemodel stuff, and that is the real car lacquer and need the speciffic thinner
You're right. My comments about water are ONLY intended in reference to waterbased acrylics... I probably should have made that clearer! Always the appropriate thinner... Personal fave on the solvent based paints - toluene - just smells so good! W
@@harderairbrush i know this that been using airbrushes for over 10 years for my hobby. But i did think it was something that you shoulf say just so new pepole dont try to thin out the paint or flush out the brush or other stuff with water when its a enamel or lacquer based paint🙂 I just want to make it easyer for pepole to get it right
Hey buddy - thanks a lot for asking the question, and my answer is a firm NOPE. I really strongly advise that you use the cleaner from the brand of paint that you are using in the airbrush. I'm sure the Badger cleaner is good, but I always get concerned that if we give general advice of using a single cleaner, that new airbrushes will get confused, and for example use that with something like Tamiya paint, which won't work at all well! So our advice remains to use the brand which matches the paint. As people gain experience, no doubt they will start going their own way, which is cool, but for general advice, this is really the option that keeps everyone out of trouble :-)
@@harderairbrush It’s more a comparability question. I’m intrigued by the Evolutions trigger but as I have an Infinity… I don’t know. I might just be stupid here 😁
Good tips, But I have another problem: I bought a Squidmar Ultra 2024 not that long ago. I'm very happy with it, it looks great. It sprays paint very well. There is only 1 small thing I noticed: when I release the trigger completely I can hear air escaping from the front of the needle. I have to lift the trigger manually a bit and then it stops. I've already disassembled and reassembled the airbrush completely, made sure that everything was finger tight. I even put a little bit of airbrush lubricant where the trigger is. But that does not solve the problem.
Hey buddy - no problem - just put a little more spring tension on the airvalve… Hose off, quick disconnect unscrewed, then use a small flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the internal screw which regulates airvalve spring tension. Should fix that, no problem 😊
@@harderairbrush I have tried your suggestion and tightened the screw as far as I could. But unfortunately the air leak is still there. I investigated a bit more. I took the air valve out of the airbrush and pressed on the little pin where the air comes out. When I release the pin, the air stops immediately. It seems to happen only when the air valve is installed in the airbrush. I took the airbrush apart to see if there was anything I could do, but I seem to be unable to solve it.
With loadshedding my little 24L tank keeps me going for quite a while on my chinesium airbrush. I just need to figure out how I'm going to get my hands on a H&S airbrush
Ah loadshedding the impressive sounding euphemism for a power cut - governments always prefer to call it that as it implies planning, rather than a power cut, which implies the opposite :-) Sorry to hear that you're dealing with that - rather familiar with it from my upbringing :-)
I've barely touched my airbrush because the respirator is uncomfortable and it's a nightmare with glasses. I've been freaked out about breathing it in even in a dedicated garage with a spraybooth. Now you're telling me it's optional?? Gamechanger.
It's all about what air environment you are sitting in. If you have a spray booth in front of you, pulling the air into it, then the air is flowing from your back, and forwards past your face. So your air supply is coming from behind you. I'd still highly recommend using the spray out pot though - nothing wrecks a spraybooth filter faster than colour changes. Oh and one more thing, if you use a mask and glasses at the same time, you may be entitled to condensation :-) W (a lover of Dad jokes)
Can you purchase different heads/needles separately? I noticed my Ultra 2024 didn't come with a space needle and I'd really like to have one ready for when I inevitably damage it. Plus I would really like to swap out the head for the one that the Evolution uses. I checked your store but neither seem to be sold. The only thing I saw was some pack with needles, heads, cups for the Infinity.
Thank you for these uploads, Warwick. I don't have a H&S airbrush - yet - but I find your techniques and advice invaluable. As the other guys have commented, keep them coming! PS What cleaner do you use for your cleaning cup?)))
any brand recommendations for hose and quick disconnect adapters? I got an h&s ultra as my first airbrush, but I want to get good quality accessories without having to buy again cause I hv air leaks
If you use a tankless compressor for long periods of time it will heat up and collect more moisture in the hose than a trap can deal with and will start spitting all over your work. It takes about half an hour of use before it heats up enough.
Question: Are there optional triggers with a more rectangular shape, similar to the Iwata Takumi trigger available for the Ultra 2024? I find the round topped triggers make my fingertip go numb after a few minutes of use. I recently took delivery of a Squidmar Ultra 24 edition airbrush and I am loving it...with the exception of the trigger shape. the Ultra 24 is so much better than my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS in all regards.
Hello! I am on the fence about getting airbrushes form you guys, I have my picks in the shopping cart on your website. My concern is replacement part, since I am not in Europe but in US and I don't see any pricing on replacement part specially needles for the Ultra and the Evolution. Can you guys help me out? Thank you in advance!!!
More good info. Maybe just make a space for the quick release tail in the case. My thought on thinners is that if a manufacturer makes a thinner for their paint, it is not true waterbased. I could be wrong but that's how I see it.
@@harderairbrush That is normally just called "transparent base" and has the same viscosity as the rest of the paint range. Used to reduce opacity but not viscosity.
Happy to confirm you're wrong but I understand what you're getting at. For acrylic paint water is always the solvent (Pigment, Binder, Solvent). So yes, the "natural thinner" is water. True. But acrylic thinners be they a medium or additive are REALLY concerned with things like the surface tension (be it to increase or decrease). It's not that they're turpentine or white spirit or whatever VOC you're worried about. But if you put too much solvent (water) in you eventually disrupt the Binder/Solvent ratios. Mediums are pre-mixed e.g. pouring medium for thinner paint (or texture gel, modelling paste, if you want thick texture paints) that you can use as you like, whereas Additives (e.g. flow improver) are used in calculated ratios, for example 1 to 2 drops of flow improver per 20 drops of water. Either way it's STILL the case water IS the solvent, but the SURFACE TENSION of the solvent (the surface tension of the water) is modified. Ever see a droplet of water on a leaf? It makes for a beautiful photograph and perhaps drops of paint look good for Jackson Pollock works; but that solid, oval, 3D shape of a droplet of water is not ideal when trying to paint details of a model that are a fraction of a millimetre proud or deep. That same droplet of water with 5-10% flow improver in it will be "runny" and disperse over the the leaf (or model).
Nope, water based thinner is not the same as transparent base 😊 I do know what that is 😉 If you want to use a different term, call it extender or something. The base is not the solvent. That’s why acrylic is called water based and not water soluble. Anyway, it’s all semantics really!
@@harderairbrush I didn't mean to suggest or imply the base was the solvent. I'd love to get this right, isn't the base a medium and water the solvent? Not trying to be funny about it or playing semantics, if we get the terms right then anyone can look at any brand of acrylics and know what they're getting.
Hey Andrew… it will be a couple of weeks I think! Perhaps three… my advice is to place the order somewhere regardless. There is a huge queue for these and the best way to get one quick is to get into the queue I think. Sorry that we can’t get that solved faster. We’re working weekends too to try to catch up!
@@harderairbrush Thanks for your quick reply.. I've now got an order in with one of your official UK dealers.. Having seen the details that rob from Dred FX can do with one I can't wait to see how much it'll up my mini game.
Is there any chance the Evolution X and M will get some love and receive the 2024 upgrades? How about some demos for the underappreciated Grafo and Colani, both great airbrushes in their own right.
Repeating a comment I made above about spray booths. I built a spray booth out of foamboard. Can erect when I need it and dissemble when I’m done. Basically an 8 1/2 x 11 inch box. So it doesn’t have to be expensive to work.
In my understanding you push in the right direction, wanted to make you this compliment. By the way the Evolution was my 1st brush ever, 20 years ago or something like that, the Infinity my second. How do you think about individualization? For e.g optional trigger.
@@harderairbrush In terms of a H&S airbrush I look from time to time at the Giraldez version. The trigger is closer to the neadle aka the cap witch often can be a little problematic. You could make a cap like the Iwata cm-b, tilt the thred/ pot to the neadle, for more space. You could make something between the micro cup and the standard 2 ml. You could be more agressive with the shape of the pot in order to still have the same volume but a better visibility line. Anyway if I buy the Airbrush then I replace the trigger with one of the new Evolution or something like that, I can't his style. I mean in the end it comes down to trigger feeling, responsivnes and visibility. By the way has somebody thought about an air velocity regulator diractly at the neadle? I don't mean a mac valve or something like that. In any case I hope that it was not to much nonsens and that nobody gone mad because of my jabbering. 😅 Hope it helps in some way and if not then I will still ❤ you.
Ah man that's super cool that you took the time to write that. Actually you're on the right road! The tilt of the cups is different on the 2024 airbrushes - just the same as your idea. There are lots of innovations coming this year - you will enjoy all of them I think! Thanks for choosing H&S :-) W
I just received my Ultra 2024 and have done a couple sessions with it. I paint 1/4 and 1/6 scale printed figurines. Coming from rather cheap airbrushes I'm actually having some trouble adjusting. The first thing I noticed is how much stiffer the action is on the Ultra, and even sometimes when I think I've pulled all the way back I actually haven't. But the biggest problem I'm having is I seem to be spitting out paint far far far faster than my old airbrush and getting very dense coats. Getting down more paint much faster than I feel like I want or can control right now. This is trying to get down a base layer, so I have the ring set to Base. My PSI is around 30 PSI. Is this just an issue of getting used to the new brush or am I doing something wrong/wrong settings for this brush?
The ultra definitely puts out more than the majority of the cheaper air brushes I have used. the old airbrushes I used had about a .2 ish needle and the ultra is much bigger so it will let more through This helped me and you can try it to see if it helps you too. I lowered my PSI to about 25psi and pulse the trigger instead of holding it down like I did on the cheaper airbrushes. I also move a bit faster when sweeping across the figures by from about 25 to 50% faster.
Hey buddy - thanks for writing in! Firstly, let's get you to back off a bit on the pressure to around 25psi. That slows it down a bit. Moving is an important part of painting. But the most important point is really to understand that the Color Control collar on the ULTRA was never meant to be something that you have to use all the time. It's for beginners to get a feel. Once you have that, you must really develop your trigger skill and move to operating it with the free trigger. It's easier, faster and more flexible. However, if you want to have a bit more confidence, and you want to slow down your base coat application, just dial it back a bit with the collar set to I... that's very slightly slower in application than BASE. Another note, check your distances. You should easily fit a fist in between the airbrush and the model in order to use PRIME, BASE or I well. Hope that helps you! Once you're adjusted, the ULTRA is an extremely flexible airbrush - the speed on a full trigger can be very high, and great for larger models. But the detail capability and controllability is very good too, on the smaller trigger settings. Stick with it - you'll only need an hour or two more to adjust and then it will all make perfect sense :-)
Hi. Np at all. I‘m still patient and hoping for a sent note during the next week. 😊 But you here, dropping nice content week after week makes me even more excited. 😂
Just want to ask if there is a difference in construction between for instance the 2024 Evolution and the Squidmar Evo? Or do those same model names just come in different appearances (colors) and one or two needle sizes?
Still waiting for my new Evo 2024 - supposed to have shipped by the 17th, but nothing yet!? Disappointing that you list a ship by date on the website that I'm relying on for a project, but you don't ship when you say you will...
Hey buddy - the Evolutions are pretty much up to date now - I'm surprised if you've not had it shipped - please email me directly on wjs@harder-airbrush.de with your order number so that I can check on that for you. W
The nose-blowing test is so viscerally real lmao 😅 I kinda overreacted and dug up an old respirator I had lying around after an extended iron hands painting session made me sneeze black. Mask up y'all
@@harderairbrushNot really, the CRI rate is basically says how close the light will be to the normal daylight and how the colours would be seen under the light of the bulb. So higher CRI of the light bulb you will see the colours closer more as they would appear in the natural light. But most of the hobby interprets that it is only about the kelvins (warm-neutral-cold) but it is just a part of that a 4000k daylight neutral colored bulb can still have weak CRI, thus the colours will be shifted. So if one wants to see or depict true colours, they should search for high CRI bulbs rather than some specific kelvins number.
Heyho! This is the first where I checked the subtitles and they are... Funny :D I think the algorithm incorrectly detects where a sentence is split and makes weird assumptions. Since I understand the english text I can figure out what is going on, but I can not say for sure if someone with no english knowledge would understand the translation. (Hungarian) I think the translation used the auto-generated english and not the supervised. I have to go back and rewatch with english. It displayes for me English and English auto generated.
Air pressures seems to be my biggest bug bear. Could you explain something on this subject please? Many so called tutorials vary in what pressures you should be using and it varys from 12psi to 30+psi for apparently the same paints. I'm attempting to use Vallejo model air paints at the moment.
Generally, you will do very well taking 25psi as a baseline. More pressure makes the delivery faster. Going lower gives a slower delivery. If you keep dropping, eventually atomisation begins to decrease, which is useful if you want texture. Does that help? Happy to take more questions!
@@harderairbrush Hi, that's a great start point and explanation, Thank You. I'll now go and play with that out of date food colouring the wife found for me 😃
Ha ha brilliant! Enjoy buddy! Food colouring, if it's the very fluid watery kind - you can use lower pressures with that by the way, if you want to limit the dust that it creates. Probably fine around 15-18psi, although 25 is also fine. If you get used to using that bear in mind that your delivery when you switch to acrylic paints will be a little slower, because of the slightly heavier medium. Food colouring is pretty good to start in so many ways - one of them being that it makes the trigger even more sensitive, so it does teach good control right from the start.
Very good point.Honestly, that's a point I probably should have made in the video. Thanks for bringing it up in the comments. If you don't have ventilation, and are using solvent based paint, you really should use a mask with an active carbon filter.
@@harderairbrush while for miniature gaming acrylics are the go to and standard, there are several painters who use oils as they have a longer working time and there are others who use oils with what they call a 'reducation' method where they blast it through an airbrush and then remove it to achieve 'grimdark' effects. It's popular in some 40K circles so thought it important to mention.
oh come on i realy like your videos but please stop telling people that they don't need a mask...no matter what kind of paint your using, water based acrylics or the hottest lacquer paints people wear a fuxxing mask. a good mask with active carbon filter is under 20 bucks and hardly hinders you at all. so warrick you are not a pulmonologist so please stop saying things like that
Thanks for your comment man. I appreciate it. You're right. A mask is barely a hindrance, and most people are working in the smallest room in the house. Thanks for commenting. W
thanks warrick i realy enjoy your beginner videos even though I'm a little more experienced when it comes to airbrushing...I didn't want to question your competence either. but you never know exactly what the manufacturers are mixing into their color formula...keep up the good work
Ive been airbrushing for only about 2 years with a $30 amazon one, and it has been a great learning tool. I got my new Evo ~3 weeks ago and it has absolutely exceeded all expectations. What an incredible difference! Thank you for the amazing product (and great content!)
Ah great to hear that! Thanks for your comment - what sort of work are you doing? W
Great info for all the beginners out there 👍
But did YOU learn anything? 😂 😂😂
@@harderairbrush always when you speak warrick 👍
You're too kind buddy. Likewise! I'd like a portrait course with you!
@@harderairbrush maybe a nun 🤔
Ordered my Ultra today 😁 never used one before, watched a lot of how to videos, spoke to a few shops and the Ultra I feel is exactly what I needed, start learning good habits correctly 👍 can't wait to start my journey learning airbrushing miniatures, keep up the fantastic videos they are so easy to follow 👍 thanks
Awesome! Thanks so much for joining us! W
Love the check your snot advise on masking-up. Lighting I recommend 5500 to 6000 kelvin light sources. I have read that halogen produces the most natural light, but I don't have the expertise to really verify that on my own. I think full spectrum is preferable to daylight spectrum light sources as well.
You should use a mask regardless of your setup. However what kind of mask depends on what you are spraying. Water-based acrylics fill the air with micro plastic dust, a P2 or P3 filter would be best. Everyone should still have some of these FFP2 masks.
Enamels, alcohol-bases (yes, inks too) should additionaly have A2 protection. Those are filters with a brown ring (A-grades) and a white ring (P-grades).
Do yourself a favor and wear one.
Thanks for the comment - good advice, everyone!
I love this series! Excellent and non biased advice for the Peeps starting out. Cheers to everyone involved, I'm loving my ultra ❤👍🏻.
Supercool Greg - glad that you're enjoying the ULTRA. Thanks for joining us. W
Great information❤
Glad you found it useful :-)
Thanks for posting this, I have an ultra on the way as a first time airbrush user and this kind of information is exactly what I need
Happy that it's useful! What kind of work are you planning on doing with the ULTRA? Thanks for joining us! W
Great content as always, thanks. 👍
Thank you for all the very informative videos you’ve been posting on RUclips. I’ve been a Infinity user for the past few years but have always wondered about your other airbrush models. Hoping you can do a video describing the different models and their individual strengths/advantages. Thanks again!
Thanks very much for commenting - that video will come soon too!
More great useful content✌️👍💜☹️
Don't forget a small spray booth and/or the CORRECT type of mask for the paint/particulate being used/expelled by the airbrush.
One must be very wary of solvent based paints too.
For quick jobs, I have a small, portable, pulse free, receiverless (without cylinder) compressor, works up to 25psi and is great for remote use or quick jobs (very little to no moisture generated). Otherwise I have a larger compressor in the garage, on wheels, with a receiver and moisture trap and a miniature version of the same indoors. None of them were very expensive and they all work well. Remember to always drain the receiver of moisture at the end of the painting session.
Enjoy✌️👍💜😊
Thanks for raising the solvent paints issue buddy. If you have no ventilation, I recommend using an active carbon mask to deal with the solvents.
I built a spray booth out of foamboard. Can erect when i need it and dissemble when I’m done. Basically an 8 1/2 x 11 inch box. So it doesn’t have to be expensive to work.
@@harderairbrush I rarely spray solvents these days, if I do it's outdoors or in garage with booth and plenty of ventilation. I've also FFP2 and FFP3 masks. In past careers I've breasted in too much cr@p - best kit I used in the end was air fed, Eg for welding etc.
@@nittneylion84 I agree, if you're DIY adept it can be done, if spraying solvents though one has to choose the right motor, that won't generate sparks etc.
If spraying acrylics one doesn't need to vent to air, put vent hose, in/on a sealed bucket lid with small vent holes and water and after initial filtration that will mop up any airbrush cleaner/thinner smells (like a giant AB discharge/cleaning pot)✌️👍💜😊
Another great video. Keep them coming 👍
Thanks for sharing bro loving your vids😊😊😊😊😊😊
Pleasure brother. How’s the project going?
@@harderairbrush on hold at the moment mate as you know the uk weather has been awful !! Dont want to mess up at this stage because of the heat my heating system in my studio is very basic just waiting now for the temp outside to warm up by a few degrees 😉😉😉😉
Ah sensible mate 🤙🏻
By the way when I was painting helmets in the winter, I made a rotary stand with a 60w bulb 💡 on it which fitted inside the helmet. The piece was nice and warm after 20 minutes and it was also great for curing clear coat over night.
@@harderairbrush thanks brother this is why I tune into yours and Robs channel, full of useful tips and hints 👊👊👊
Thank you for these videos, they’ve really attracted me to the brand. My next airbrush purchase will be a H&S. The hard part will be choosing which one!
Awesome thanks so much! We look forward to you joining us!
Another great video guys. Keep up the great work!
Thanks buddy.
Love these videos and the channel. Would love to know where I could obtain an Evo CR+ in South Africa. Thanks and keep up the excellent work.
Bought the new Evolution Car plus Squidmar edition. I love it and I’ve been learning a lot. Switched the needle and nozzle to the .15mm for fine highlights on miniatures. Now I have inconsistent spitting from the air brush and loss of paint atomization, even after cleaning. Can’t seem to figure out what I might be doing wrong. Any suggestions would be great.
Love these videos you are making, it has made me want to start using an airbrush again.
just ordered the ultra 2024, looking forward to get it :) primarily be using it for priming and base coating miniatures.
LOVE those comments! I'm really happy that it's made you want to pick it up again! Thanks for letting us know :-) airbrushing is so magical if we can just overcome the initial concerns about difficulty - it's really not and just needs a bit of advice and support to avoid the early pitfalls, and once you're past them, it's on like Donkey Kong! BUT please, challenge yourself beyond priming and basing - the airbrush is SUCH a beautiful tool for picking out the play of light on relief on miniatures - I've tried to highlight this in the video painting the Age of Sigmar Dragon. Hope that pushes you along a little more!
@@harderairbrush hehe yeah I have a challenge in mind, that i want to be able to master someday, and that is when i paint skin is to use a airbrush to make the transition from darker to lighter more smooth rather than hours of glasing with a brush :)
Well you've picked up the right tool! Take some time to learn from airbrushes who are painting on canvas too - lots of content about that on here... Portrait artists of course specialise in that.
You doing these vids are great . I think your the only manufacturer that does them directly . Not surprising tho , H&S is the industry leading manufacturer. I have had quite a few airbrushes in my past , the New Utlra i got in late November, is easily the best brush ive had . Over Iwata , over Paasche. Keep it up guys
Awesome to hear that Steve! Anyone who rides Gas Gas has good taste, though, naturally. I started out with Paasche by the way - my first airbrush was the legendary VL. Glad you're enjoying your ULTRA! W
@harderairbrush both Trials and Enduro , but mostly Enduro . Nice to see you picked that up
Trials! Man, respect! I used to dabble a little in MX but mainly to support bike control for road circuit racing. Fun times.
I do have a Question: Did H&S ever consider to release an airbrush model with a trigger mechanism (like the Iwata NEO TR1/2)?
The reason I am asking is that I am partially disabled having a very much reduced sense of touch anf therefore sometimes have difficulties using a standard dualaction mechanism.
Currently I own an Evolution and an Inifinity and would rather like to stay with H&S airbrushes and dual action systems.
Thank You for Your time and best regards, Helmut Rohrer
I would snap one of these up in a heartbeat
I really wish they would come out with a pistol grip. I made this comment back when the Ultra 2024 came out. The thing is targeted at a group of artists who would almost never even use a dual stage trigger. A pistol grip is so much more ergonomic. I can't use the dual stage triggers for more than very short (30 minute top) sessions at a time before it really hurts my hand but I can go hours with my crappy Ghaaleri pistol grip brush.
I love everything about the Ultra 2024 enough to suffer with the trigger but yeah I really wish they would make a pistol grip.
Great video!
Just a comment about using water as thinner - where I live the tap water is incredibly hard, looking at my taps (faucets?) and my kettle etc, I know there are enough tiny invisible rocks in my water to want to pass it through an investment piece airbrush. The auto parts store sells 1 litre bottles of de-ionised water for like 3 bucks, and it basically comes wirh a dropper bottle cap as well. The kind for topping up old car batteries and for steam irons - NOT the scented ironing liquids which definitely have other stuff in there. Everyone working with acrylics ahould have a bottle of this stuff, it's super cheap and it's perfect for rehydrating those old dehydrated paints (looking at you Citadel) - I agree with you Warwick thinners and air brush cleaner are essential but if you are looking to use water for any reason this stuff is super cheap and readily available.
Thanks for making these videos, it's super helpful and really says a lot about H+S as a company that you take the time to do this 👍🏻
That's a really good point Nat. Like it. And you're right - it is an inexpensive way to supply water without minerals in it. Nice tip - thanks you! W
I always use distilled water in everything related to my painting, from the water in my booth's circulation down to the cups I use for thinning and washing. Distilled water is cheap, couple bucks a gallon, and I already buy it regularly for my CPAP machine anyway.
Do you have a video specifically comparing the different cleaning methods? Quick waster clean versus the approach we saw in the ultra video?
Hey Mark - nope. I don't see why :-) For me, the method in the ULTRA video is really the only one worth doing. It is so quick, that what's the point of doing anything else, when the results from that method are so comprehensive.
love those small tips!
Ah glad to hear that! Which was most helpful for you? Any other topics you’d like us to get into? W
i learned airbrushing by myself during COVID and 2 years later i am still discovering new stuff like the "Giraldez" tip to just dip the airbrush in water directly while working. All tips about drying tip where also very usefull. I started my journey with a infinity, and i just bought the new ultra and Evolution, and looking back, i regret that i didnt have the ultra at the start, i took so many bad habits.@@harderairbrush
I've had an ultra and evolution aluminum an evolution silver line and evolution CR plus amazing airbrushes especially the aluminum version was like you didn't have anything in your hand however every single one every time after I sprayed paint flushed Airbrush out with thinner and or cleaner whatever medium I was using the next time I go to use it in a needle is frozenmeaning there is paint getting back through even after replacing the bushings
Thanks for the question! I’m happy to tell you two things - one, we solved that about a year ago, and two, it doesn’t mean paint is leaking…
Basically it was a machining limitation that we had in terms of how deep we could set the needle bearing into the body. Previously we could not set the needle bearing directly at the back of the cup, but had to have it closer to the trigger slot. This meant that there was always this difficult to clean channel behind the cup, but before the needle seal. Now, with the new machines that we have, we are able to position that seal optimally ie directly behind the cup, and consequently this issue is totally solved on all airbrushes for around a year or so. The 2024 models are even further optimised with some other tweaks which I would prefer not to disclose as no-one else has figured them out yet 😉 the cleaning on the 2024 airbrushes is incredibly fast and comprehensive with only two flushes.
@@harderairbrush oh ,thanks a lot ,that explains it .however I wish I didn't sell them al.l I really miss that aluminum version that was an amazing Airbrush ,however the evolution CR plus that was the smoothest Airbrush I've ever touched
Well, I hope you join us again sometime soon! W
Could you do a short video on airbrushing canvas? Especially concerning the ultra 2024
Hi David - actually we have a series planned on canvas airbrushing - we start filming soon! Really looking forward to it actually. W
@@harderairbrush that’s great. I will look forward to it
Water works with acrylics, but if you use a lot of solvent based paints then you need to use the right solvent for that paint, lacquer, enamel, acrylic lacquer and other once, i use the Zero paints a lot on my scalemodel stuff, and that is the real car lacquer and need the speciffic thinner
You're right. My comments about water are ONLY intended in reference to waterbased acrylics... I probably should have made that clearer! Always the appropriate thinner... Personal fave on the solvent based paints - toluene - just smells so good! W
@@harderairbrush i know this that been using airbrushes for over 10 years for my hobby. But i did think it was something that you shoulf say just so new pepole dont try to thin out the paint or flush out the brush or other stuff with water when its a enamel or lacquer based paint🙂
I just want to make it easyer for pepole to get it right
Absolutely - thank you for taking the time to help other airbrushers - much appreciated. W
How about ammonia free window cleaner for in between color changes and badget ab cleaner at the end of the day
Hey buddy - thanks a lot for asking the question, and my answer is a firm NOPE. I really strongly advise that you use the cleaner from the brand of paint that you are using in the airbrush. I'm sure the Badger cleaner is good, but I always get concerned that if we give general advice of using a single cleaner, that new airbrushes will get confused, and for example use that with something like Tamiya paint, which won't work at all well! So our advice remains to use the brand which matches the paint. As people gain experience, no doubt they will start going their own way, which is cool, but for general advice, this is really the option that keeps everyone out of trouble :-)
Do the the nozzle and needle from the Infinity CR+ fit the new Evolution 2024? I kind of recall you talked about it in one of the videos.
Yes they do. I’m not sure why you would want to though 😊
@@harderairbrush It’s more a comparability question. I’m intrigued by the Evolutions trigger but as I have an Infinity…
I don’t know. I might just be stupid here 😁
Ah ok I see your point! Yes all totally interchangeable within the quiver!
Good tips,
But I have another problem:
I bought a Squidmar Ultra 2024 not that long ago.
I'm very happy with it, it looks great. It sprays paint very well.
There is only 1 small thing I noticed:
when I release the trigger completely I can hear air escaping from the front of the needle.
I have to lift the trigger manually a bit and then it stops.
I've already disassembled and reassembled the airbrush completely, made sure that everything was finger tight.
I even put a little bit of airbrush lubricant where the trigger is.
But that does not solve the problem.
Hey buddy - no problem - just put a little more spring tension on the airvalve… Hose off, quick disconnect unscrewed, then use a small flat blade screwdriver to tighten up the internal screw which regulates airvalve spring tension. Should fix that, no problem 😊
@@harderairbrush
I have tried your suggestion and tightened the screw as far as I could.
But unfortunately the air leak is still there.
I investigated a bit more.
I took the air valve out of the airbrush and pressed on the little pin where the air comes out.
When I release the pin, the air stops immediately.
It seems to happen only when the air valve is installed in the airbrush.
I took the airbrush apart to see if there was anything I could do, but I seem to be unable to solve it.
Hey buddy please send me an email to wjs@harder-airbrush.de and we will take care of you!
@@harderairbrush
Already done! :)
With loadshedding my little 24L tank keeps me going for quite a while on my chinesium airbrush. I just need to figure out how I'm going to get my hands on a H&S airbrush
Ah loadshedding the impressive sounding euphemism for a power cut - governments always prefer to call it that as it implies planning, rather than a power cut, which implies the opposite :-) Sorry to hear that you're dealing with that - rather familiar with it from my upbringing :-)
Hello there, oh great one!
all these 2024 updates are great. Is there going to be an Infinity 2024 too?
I'll be back. W
I've barely touched my airbrush because the respirator is uncomfortable and it's a nightmare with glasses. I've been freaked out about breathing it in even in a dedicated garage with a spraybooth.
Now you're telling me it's optional?? Gamechanger.
It's all about what air environment you are sitting in. If you have a spray booth in front of you, pulling the air into it, then the air is flowing from your back, and forwards past your face. So your air supply is coming from behind you. I'd still highly recommend using the spray out pot though - nothing wrecks a spraybooth filter faster than colour changes. Oh and one more thing, if you use a mask and glasses at the same time, you may be entitled to condensation :-) W (a lover of Dad jokes)
That makes sense, thank you so much!
Can you purchase different heads/needles separately? I noticed my Ultra 2024 didn't come with a space needle and I'd really like to have one ready for when I inevitably damage it. Plus I would really like to swap out the head for the one that the Evolution uses. I checked your store but neither seem to be sold. The only thing I saw was some pack with needles, heads, cups for the Infinity.
Thanks John - all coming very soon! In the meantime, please remember that the ULTRA needle is our standard 0.4x mm needle. You'll find it anywhere.
Thank you for these uploads, Warwick. I don't have a H&S airbrush - yet - but I find your techniques and advice invaluable.
As the other guys have commented, keep them coming!
PS What cleaner do you use for your cleaning cup?)))
any brand recommendations for hose and quick disconnect adapters? I got an h&s ultra as my first airbrush, but I want to get good quality accessories without having to buy again cause I hv air leaks
H&S, Sparmax are both good quality.
If you use a tankless compressor for long periods of time it will heat up and collect more moisture in the hose than a trap can deal with and will start spitting all over your work. It takes about half an hour of use before it heats up enough.
Question: Are there optional triggers with a more rectangular shape, similar to the Iwata Takumi trigger available for the Ultra 2024? I find the round topped triggers make my fingertip go numb after a few minutes of use.
I recently took delivery of a Squidmar Ultra 24 edition airbrush and I am loving it...with the exception of the trigger shape. the Ultra 24 is so much better than my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS in all regards.
Hello! I am on the fence about getting airbrushes form you guys, I have my picks in the shopping cart on your website. My concern is replacement part, since I am not in Europe but in US and I don't see any pricing on replacement part specially needles for the Ultra and the Evolution. Can you guys help me out? Thank you in advance!!!
More good info. Maybe just make a space for the quick release tail in the case. My thought on thinners is that if a manufacturer makes a thinner for their paint, it is not true waterbased. I could be wrong but that's how I see it.
Thinner is a general term and doesn’t refer to the inclusion of any VOC. Water based thinner is pretty much the base minus the pigment in many cases.
@@harderairbrush That is normally just called "transparent base" and has the same viscosity as the rest of the paint range. Used to reduce opacity but not viscosity.
Happy to confirm you're wrong but I understand what you're getting at. For acrylic paint water is always the solvent (Pigment, Binder, Solvent). So yes, the "natural thinner" is water. True. But acrylic thinners be they a medium or additive are REALLY concerned with things like the surface tension (be it to increase or decrease). It's not that they're turpentine or white spirit or whatever VOC you're worried about. But if you put too much solvent (water) in you eventually disrupt the Binder/Solvent ratios. Mediums are pre-mixed e.g. pouring medium for thinner paint (or texture gel, modelling paste, if you want thick texture paints) that you can use as you like, whereas Additives (e.g. flow improver) are used in calculated ratios, for example 1 to 2 drops of flow improver per 20 drops of water. Either way it's STILL the case water IS the solvent, but the SURFACE TENSION of the solvent (the surface tension of the water) is modified. Ever see a droplet of water on a leaf? It makes for a beautiful photograph and perhaps drops of paint look good for Jackson Pollock works; but that solid, oval, 3D shape of a droplet of water is not ideal when trying to paint details of a model that are a fraction of a millimetre proud or deep. That same droplet of water with 5-10% flow improver in it will be "runny" and disperse over the the leaf (or model).
Nope, water based thinner is not the same as transparent base 😊 I do know what that is 😉
If you want to use a different term, call it extender or something. The base is not the solvent. That’s why acrylic is called water based and not water soluble. Anyway, it’s all semantics really!
@@harderairbrush I didn't mean to suggest or imply the base was the solvent. I'd love to get this right, isn't the base a medium and water the solvent? Not trying to be funny about it or playing semantics, if we get the terms right then anyone can look at any brand of acrylics and know what they're getting.
Hi Warwick.. When will the Ultra 2024 be back in stock? I really want to get one but no-one seems to have any
Hey Andrew… it will be a couple of weeks I think! Perhaps three… my advice is to place the order somewhere regardless. There is a huge queue for these and the best way to get one quick is to get into the queue I think. Sorry that we can’t get that solved faster. We’re working weekends too to try to catch up!
@@harderairbrush Thanks for your quick reply.. I've now got an order in with one of your official UK dealers.. Having seen the details that rob from Dred FX can do with one I can't wait to see how much it'll up my mini game.
Excellent Andrew - thanks for joining us! Keep us informed as to your impressions/ progress! W
Is there any chance the Evolution X and M will get some love and receive the 2024 upgrades? How about some demos for the underappreciated Grafo and Colani, both great airbrushes in their own right.
All on the way buddy - what would you like to see first?
Repeating a comment I made above about spray booths. I built a spray booth out of foamboard. Can erect when I need it and dissemble when I’m done. Basically an 8 1/2 x 11 inch box. So it doesn’t have to be expensive to work.
Absolutely. Great point.
In my understanding you push in the right direction, wanted to make you this compliment. By the way the Evolution was my 1st brush ever, 20 years ago or something like that, the Infinity my second. How do you think about individualization? For e.g optional trigger.
Thank you! Which are the parts that you are most interested for that? In addition to the trigger?
@@harderairbrush In terms of a H&S airbrush I look from time to time at the Giraldez version. The trigger is closer to the neadle aka the cap witch often can be a little problematic. You could make a cap like the Iwata cm-b, tilt the thred/ pot to the neadle, for more space. You could make something between the micro cup and the standard 2 ml. You could be more agressive with the shape of the pot in order to still have the same volume but a better visibility line. Anyway if I buy the Airbrush then I replace the trigger with one of the new Evolution or something like that, I can't his style. I mean in the end it comes down to trigger feeling, responsivnes and visibility. By the way has somebody thought about an air velocity regulator diractly at the neadle? I don't mean a mac valve or something like that. In any case I hope that it was not to much nonsens and that nobody gone mad because of my jabbering. 😅 Hope it helps in some way and if not then I will still ❤ you.
Ah man that's super cool that you took the time to write that. Actually you're on the right road! The tilt of the cups is different on the 2024 airbrushes - just the same as your idea. There are lots of innovations coming this year - you will enjoy all of them I think! Thanks for choosing H&S :-) W
I just received my Ultra 2024 and have done a couple sessions with it. I paint 1/4 and 1/6 scale printed figurines. Coming from rather cheap airbrushes I'm actually having some trouble adjusting. The first thing I noticed is how much stiffer the action is on the Ultra, and even sometimes when I think I've pulled all the way back I actually haven't.
But the biggest problem I'm having is I seem to be spitting out paint far far far faster than my old airbrush and getting very dense coats. Getting down more paint much faster than I feel like I want or can control right now. This is trying to get down a base layer, so I have the ring set to Base. My PSI is around 30 PSI. Is this just an issue of getting used to the new brush or am I doing something wrong/wrong settings for this brush?
The ultra definitely puts out more than the majority of the cheaper air brushes I have used. the old airbrushes I used had about a .2 ish needle and the ultra is much bigger so it will let more through
This helped me and you can try it to see if it helps you too. I lowered my PSI to about 25psi and pulse the trigger instead of holding it down like I did on the cheaper airbrushes. I also move a bit faster when sweeping across the figures by from about 25 to 50% faster.
Hey buddy - thanks for writing in! Firstly, let's get you to back off a bit on the pressure to around 25psi. That slows it down a bit. Moving is an important part of painting. But the most important point is really to understand that the Color Control collar on the ULTRA was never meant to be something that you have to use all the time. It's for beginners to get a feel. Once you have that, you must really develop your trigger skill and move to operating it with the free trigger. It's easier, faster and more flexible. However, if you want to have a bit more confidence, and you want to slow down your base coat application, just dial it back a bit with the collar set to I... that's very slightly slower in application than BASE. Another note, check your distances. You should easily fit a fist in between the airbrush and the model in order to use PRIME, BASE or I well. Hope that helps you! Once you're adjusted, the ULTRA is an extremely flexible airbrush - the speed on a full trigger can be very high, and great for larger models. But the detail capability and controllability is very good too, on the smaller trigger settings. Stick with it - you'll only need an hour or two more to adjust and then it will all make perfect sense :-)
Try holding the trigger DOWN constantly, but pulse it back and forth. Flow :-)
All I need is the ULTRA, which I ordered at a vendor in Germany, to arrive. 😅
Ah Matthias - I feel your pain brother. My apologies for the wait - we are doing our best now on 6 days of the week to catch up!
Hi. Np at all. I‘m still patient and hoping for a sent note during the next week. 😊 But you here, dropping nice content week after week makes me even more excited. 😂
Now delivery was postponed again to CW6. 😮
Just want to ask if there is a difference in construction between for instance the 2024 Evolution and the Squidmar Evo? Or do those same model names just come in different appearances (colors) and one or two needle sizes?
The CRPlus Squevo is the same - just with the artwork. The Black Ed Squevo has our new fPC valve and the black chrome. Which one do you prefer most?
@@harderairbrush Thanks, I absolutely ❤The Black Ed Squevo a.k.a. Squidmar Limited Black Edition. P.s. the new ultra is 👌
Ah cool - yes it’s pretty cool that Black Squevo!
Still waiting for my new Evo 2024 - supposed to have shipped by the 17th, but nothing yet!? Disappointing that you list a ship by date on the website that I'm relying on for a project, but you don't ship when you say you will...
Hey buddy - the Evolutions are pretty much up to date now - I'm surprised if you've not had it shipped - please email me directly on wjs@harder-airbrush.de with your order number so that I can check on that for you. W
@@harderairbrush Just did - grateful for the help. Thank you.
The nose-blowing test is so viscerally real lmao 😅 I kinda overreacted and dug up an old respirator I had lying around after an extended iron hands painting session made me sneeze black. Mask up y'all
It's a great reality check, that's for sure! W
It is not the color of the light, it is the color rendering index (CRI) of the light... it should be higher than 90
Thanks for clarifying!
@@harderairbrush your welcome, sadly it is not well known thing. Everybody talking about kelvins and nobody about the CRI (which matters way more)
I appreciate you sharing the info. Did I get it incorrect the way I described that?
@@harderairbrushNot really, the CRI rate is basically says how close the light will be to the normal daylight and how the colours would be seen under the light of the bulb. So higher CRI of the light bulb you will see the colours closer more as they would appear in the natural light. But most of the hobby interprets that it is only about the kelvins (warm-neutral-cold) but it is just a part of that a 4000k daylight neutral colored bulb can still have weak CRI, thus the colours will be shifted. So if one wants to see or depict true colours, they should search for high CRI bulbs rather than some specific kelvins number.
Thanks buddy.
Heyho! This is the first where I checked the subtitles and they are... Funny :D I think the algorithm incorrectly detects where a sentence is split and makes weird assumptions. Since I understand the english text I can figure out what is going on, but I can not say for sure if someone with no english knowledge would understand the translation. (Hungarian)
I think the translation used the auto-generated english and not the supervised. I have to go back and rewatch with english. It displayes for me English and English auto generated.
It also mixes formal and non formal :D Och boy. I'll go back to previous videos as well - as promised.
Ok I am dying :D When the part "our good friend Angel Giraldez" - the translation: "Our good friend's an*s Herald the, ..." :D
Okay - I have restarted with the "proper" english text - and it is good :) I am certain the auto translate used the automatic english :O
Not perfect, though
Air pressures seems to be my biggest bug bear. Could you explain something on this subject please?
Many so called tutorials vary in what pressures you should be using and it varys from 12psi to 30+psi for apparently the same paints. I'm attempting to use Vallejo model air paints at the moment.
Generally, you will do very well taking 25psi as a baseline. More pressure makes the delivery faster. Going lower gives a slower delivery. If you keep dropping, eventually atomisation begins to decrease, which is useful if you want texture. Does that help? Happy to take more questions!
@@harderairbrush Hi, that's a great start point and explanation, Thank You. I'll now go and play with that out of date food colouring the wife found for me 😃
Ha ha brilliant! Enjoy buddy! Food colouring, if it's the very fluid watery kind - you can use lower pressures with that by the way, if you want to limit the dust that it creates. Probably fine around 15-18psi, although 25 is also fine. If you get used to using that bear in mind that your delivery when you switch to acrylic paints will be a little slower, because of the slightly heavier medium. Food colouring is pretty good to start in so many ways - one of them being that it makes the trigger even more sensitive, so it does teach good control right from the start.
In terms of a mask/spray booth, there's a huge difference between shooting acrylics through an air brush and shooting oils or enamels through it.
Very good point.Honestly, that's a point I probably should have made in the video. Thanks for bringing it up in the comments. If you don't have ventilation, and are using solvent based paint, you really should use a mask with an active carbon filter.
@@harderairbrush while for miniature gaming acrylics are the go to and standard, there are several painters who use oils as they have a longer working time and there are others who use oils with what they call a 'reducation' method where they blast it through an airbrush and then remove it to achieve 'grimdark' effects. It's popular in some 40K circles so thought it important to mention.
oh come on i realy like your videos but please stop telling people that they don't need a mask...no matter what kind of paint your using, water based acrylics or the hottest lacquer paints people wear a fuxxing mask. a good mask with active carbon filter is under 20 bucks and hardly hinders you at all. so warrick you are not a pulmonologist so please stop saying things like that
Thanks for your comment man. I appreciate it. You're right. A mask is barely a hindrance, and most people are working in the smallest room in the house. Thanks for commenting. W
thanks warrick i realy enjoy your beginner videos even though I'm a little more experienced when it comes to airbrushing...I didn't want to question your competence either. but you never know exactly what the manufacturers are mixing into their color formula...keep up the good work
No worries - really - appreciate your comment buddy! Thanks for taking the time to participate and share your knowledge with others.