I just had this issue and all I did was adjust the trigger spring a little tighter because it wasn’t returning out all the way to set the high idle rod into the groove on the choke rod if that makes sense. You just have to watch what it is doing when you squeeze the trigger and set the choke and you can see what it needs to function.
Hello Walt, Just wanted to thank you for this video and taking the time to diagnose and document this issue. For anyone doing this repair/upgrade the part Stihl part numbers are. 1122 182 0902 Switch Shaft ( this is the Stihl name for the multifunction lever) and 1122 180 1500 Trigger.
Bought mine in December 2019, not FT, my kit had the case and cylinder assembled. Same starting problem however; no high idle one click up. Thank you, this may be exactly what I needed. Stay safe in the world and be excellent to each other.
Thank you. I also have a 660 Magnum with a bad cylinder. I decided to cannibalize the generic Stihl and get the old one running. I don't need 2 of them.
I want to point out the post by @KrKrypton below, because in that post is the suggestion that fixed the problem I was having with the Farmertec MS660 that I received late June 2021. Once I closely examined the choke and high-idle positions (as discussed by @afleetcommand in this video) it was clear to me that getting the choke reliably (and repeatably) to position 3 (as some are calling it here) was not happening. Replacing the multi-function starter and trigger didn't change anything for me at all, at least not reliably. It is possible that you will replace these and things might look better for a while - as they did for me - but it returned to the old mode of fitfully not starting on various days, which is very frustrating. So I cut out a wooden version of the shim that @KrKrypton refers to, and lo and behold, with the back cover and choke air-filter removed, I could now see that the high-idle was engaging for all the tests that I did, whereas prior to inserting the shim, the high-idle would engage from time to time, and then not do so for many tests also. @KrKrypton's post also has info. on how to get to a site that has a STL file which can be sent to a 3D printer, and from which you can print a more robust version of the shim. I have sent this file to a friend, but have yet to receive the shim, but in the meantime, the wooden shim continues to work. After almost 2 years of unreliable starts, I am looking forward to something better. I will continue to test the shim once I get it, and in the event this "solution" fails to work, I will post that info here immediately. In the same vein, should the shim continue to work well, then I will post that here also. Many thanks to everyone for their valuable suggestions.
Fixed mine with just the multi function lever. They look identical but the aftermarket one was flexible enough to be pushed backwards by the throttle spring on the carb and therefore close the butterfly that doesn’t happen with still lever. They are very hard to start if they are effectively choked all the time once they get fuel they have to breathe .The lever detent seems to work but unless you have a close look you will see the butterfly is still closed.
I replaced everything - master control lever, throttle rod, trigger, interlock and clip. It worked great after that. I probably could have gotten by replacing less but when you have to wait another two weeks to get better results, it wasn’worth the small difference in cost.
Walt and Matthew, Just ordered my first MS660 kit and its scheduled for delivery tomorrow so when I get it assembled I will update on whether this issue was present.PS For sure worth mentioning, I ordered my kit on the 28th, really happy to see it arriving in MD in just 9 days....Thanks Farmertec Power Machinery.
The difference is dimensional. The farmertec parts are smaller in diameter and a lot more flimsier than the oem parts. I replaced everything in my 660 on the control lever and throttle parts, including a new clip on the control lever and interlock. I have replaced a lot of parts on my 660 with oem parts and a new husky deco valve
Know that feeling well. Mine, originally, would not go to high idle, either. I just replaced the farmertec junk with Stihl parts, including, trigger, interlock, throttle rod, master control lever and the clip that hold the control lever on the saw. It worked fine after that. I still could not get it to crank for me and I had to replace the cylinder, piston and reseal it. After that, it ran like it should and is an ease to crank. I have not spent as much money on my 660, as you did. I would estimate I have over $300 in it but not a lot more than that. Most of my additional cost was my personal labor. Where did you get your DTI 20 K tach?
i noticed the 388 and 366 i feel like im gona break the multi lever when i forse it to choke but not the problem with throttle. the 361 i built i should try this because its dieng on me thank you!
I put a baileys big bore cylinder and piston in mine ,Husky decomp , factory Stihl gaskets and seals seems to be running good! I altered the throttle rod a bit to get it to idle down! I ordered a Hyway recoil and first time it kicked back it was destroyed! Junk! I ordered a upgraded chain adjuster from cross it has so much play it is junk! I filed a little off the large hutzle chain adjust gear and it works for now! I also reinstalled original recoil for now! Take allot of tweaking and buying parts to get them right! I suspect when Im done I will have all factory Sthil parts piece bye piece ata cost double the price of a factory 660! Fun project though. awsome puzzle!
I have a brand new G660 I am on the 4th tank of gas and up until now it has ran fine I started into a cut and it acted like it ran out of gas which it wasn’t and will not start back. Also the throttle trigger sticks and I have to pull it down.
walt I did this upgrade and saw still not correct! It was fine when upright but on its side in alsakan mill trigger locked up! I have also still had trouble as is hard to start! MY deduction is Hudzle carb is junk! So I spent 70 more on a Tiltsom carb! Bolted it on and wow like a quality saw now! It starts in 2 pulls cold and 1 warm like it should! Got her dialed in at 12200 free rev on tach! This is a baileys big bore kit saw! Lay into a log , my bad chain on cold start and clutch blows! LOL I loved this progect but am sure I will have 3000.00 in this thing when crank breaks! These Hudzle saws are Junk! No comparison to factory stihl!
In looking at my 660 after seeing this video it does not go to high idle either! I ordered the choke lever and throttle trigger from stihl! I also put a stihl recoil pulley and pawls on mine!
Please explain what is going on here. I have a Stihl 660 MS. It starts very hard and leaks out of both ends at the same time. The guy I bought it from bought it new and gave it to me last year because it was such a pain. He said it was made in China, but the cover says Stihl. Did still sub out to other makers? The clutch drum is Farmer Tec. The spark plug is as well. I will replace the 2 parts you suggested. Hopefully I can get the carb adjusted so it will actually saw something!
Prolly replace the carb as it sounds like the needle valve isn't working to stop the flow of fuel. On the chicom stuff just replace the carb vs. trying to fix it :) AND if it was a kit saw, don't be surprised if someone has the diaphram for the needle on the wrong side of the gasket. But it sounds like you run them more than fix them so...just get a better carb :) Also most likely a clone, NOT a Stihl. And it takes more than a little mechanical skills to get them right.. a good character building and course in mechanics sounds like its about to happen.
I never minded thev won’t start problem but I did mind the “yank your arm off” problem. I still have not resolved that problem but my 660 does not behave like a regular Stihl saw. Instead of a roll over I get a “pop and a yank,” as it attempts to suck my arm back into the starter housing. Usually, I am near the end of the starter rope, so it just yanks it out of my hand and slap the handle against my leg or whatever is in its way going back into the starter. When the weather was hotter and I was wearing shorts - it really smarted. One time it put a cut an blood bruise on my left knee. Now, it is colder so I have on jeans, and it is not as bad when it slaps my left leg. What do you think could be causing the pop?
Walt....is this an issue of a miscast part? Or is it misshapen or an issue of not enough glass fibers in the plastic making it too flexy. ???? What do you think?
on some... likely many parts I think they are cheaping out and using regular ABS plastic with minimal glass fiber reinforcement... ie, the 394/5 brake flags. ... a little more glass fiber and the part would be useful. oh well.
Hello Walter, of the farmertec saws what do you recommend as being the most straightforward to built. I understand there is vereation in components over time and each saw will have slightly different challenges. Used saws on Vancouver Island are very expensive so I'm thinking a farmertec is a good platform to experiment / learn on.
WOW glad to see that simply swapping-up to OEM on that operator switch isn't "the golden ticket" I expected (would've bought, installed, then been furious that I still can't get half-choke position!) One thing I want to mention is that, while neither of my units do half-choke (they both behave simply as-if they've only got a 3-position switch, Off / On / Choked and going in-or-out of the Choke position requires me to engage the throttle-trigger), I found it interesting that one unit has the smoothest/softest throttle trigger, and the new g660 out of the box has the stiffest trigger-pull (pounds of force to fully engage throttle-trigger) that I've ever felt on a powersaw, but both of their operator-switches, and startup behavior, is nearly identical. Thankfully, for a climber like myself, I err-towards faster Idle settings anyways (I'm a small guy, even starting the 590 from spurs is a to-do :P )
(Though I should mention I can start both units w/o trouble so far, I mean again I've only got 1 on-job use but a dozen at-home tests and a few dozen starts, and have always been able to get a startup on 1-3(usually2) pulls after a choked-turnover! Funnily enough it wasn't until just a year-ish ago that I really understood fast-idles, had always used saws in a "choke/on/off" fashion :P )
@@hvac4u2 Same here. The only way it will cold start is with a small amount of mix poured into the carb and it starts. Have a Stihl MS280 that does not start without mix added. They copied Stihl way too good!
My new G660 showed up too. Some issues. The throttle linkage worked initially, now there is no response when it is blipped. The chain oil dumped a ton of oil on to the clutch and the antikick back bar no longer stops the saw. Any thoughts?
so is this just an issue with the kit? I ordered me a prebuilt ms660 clone off amazon(it was the only one available in my region) and it would start just fine, I did replace the choke lever so the partial throttle position would engage wich made it work flawlessly now. there is one small issue tho, how can I get the c clip for the sprocket on and off without demaging it I had the issue once that the clip would just jump off and the needle bearing desintegrated on its way out do I need to modify the washer maybe? unfortunately didn't really get to use it much so far, but spring is right around the corner^^
As I tried to articulate, they are a moving target. I do believe the "Blue" 660's are much more developed now than the kits I had were. Some of the things we ran into with those early kits have been fixed with the pre assembled g660, as demonstrated with that first one I got. It's what they do. So the answer is maybe...I don't know at this point because I haven't had one of those newer ones to look at and run. Kind of moved on to other saws. I still run my project saws, those "built" 660's are really solid saw now.
I have this problem what are the model number for the two parts trigger and multi function lever I need the two part numbers I just got it a couple days ago so still a problem in December 2018
Just go to your Stihl dealer, lean over the counter and point to them..:) Thats what I did after they got to a 066 part diagram. No idea what the part numbers are.
Still an issue as of August 2018. My stihl dealer told me there wasn't even a part number in his computer for just the trigger, he quoted the whole handle assembly at 198 bucks or something like that. Anybody have stihl part numbers for the master control switch and trigger? Thanks a million
Walt, there are two choke positions on a Stihl saw - cold start and warm start, both are high idle. The only difference is the choke butterfly is half open in the warm start position and closed in the cold start position. Theoretically, if it is cold enough outside a Stihl saw should start in the cold start position. However, of all of my saws my ms 271 is the only one that will one only occasionally. My guess is either your linkage is messed up or your carb is defective.
My MS 660 has the same issue. Problem for me is the local Stihl Dealer is out of site on parts. He wanted $22.95 for a seal and he did not have it in stock. No telling what he would want for the trigger. Any suggestions on a good oem parts source? thanks, I really enjoy your videos. Been running saws since I was a teen and we are about the same age. ic
Problem is a lot of dealers won't do on line sales as its too much time to handle small orders and they are set up for over the counter type sales instead. Just have to find a different dealer. Mine in town is CNY Farm Supply and they are excellent. But they aren't setup for online or really any thing not face to face over the counter so it's not a place you could use...use the Stihl dealer finder to see what other options are in your area is all I can suggest.
Walt, i just bought a ms660 kit from farmteck is the crank and piston ok or do I need to go ahead and buy another that is more reliable? And what are the parts that are critical to go ahead and swap out?
I did not but I put a new piston and cylinder in my 660. It would just pop and try to pull me back into the starter assembly. It completely broke one starter. IMHO, the reason was the squish was so low because the piston was about .040 to tall and it created an over compression situation and it fired before the piston got to TDC. New piston and cylinder fixed that. Now, it has about the same pull over as my ms 271, which does not have a deco valve. It is now a pleasure to crank and is reliable.
MS660 Parts diagram,www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms660-magnum/Just a note for others that might be in my position. I am a retired auto tech who has done a lot of drag racing fabrication, so things like installing the crank in the case or figuring out a starting issue are cake to me. However whether its because I am half blind or just old age challenged figuring out where all the tiny parts inside all the unlabeled bags inside the box go is a whole different matter LOL.After some searching I found the diagram of Stihl MS660 parts. This made this task a whole lot easier to understand as I can now clearly identify 95% of the parts and where they go, which should make my build a lot easier whenever I get my missing flywheel key and my 28" bar and chain and some free time.
You are right the controls on a farmertec ms 660 suck. I have never seen a more fragile master control system on any stihl saw. It tris to work like all other stihl saws but the lever is so flimsy you never know which position you are in.
My whole concern is that by the time you add all the OEM replacement parts to the Farmertec kit, are you really saving that much money over just buying an OEM saw?
You do the math......a Blue g660 for $319 delivered and maybe $150 in parts. Show me a OEM 90cc anything in that price range that's not beat to chit..:) BUT if you are a pro, the extra $500 for a Husqvanra 390xp OEM saw with a warranty and dealer support is MORE than worth the extra cost, one day down makes up that money! For a hobby type who likes to tinker or even a firewood/farm part time sawyer who likes to tinker it's tough to beat one of those g660's. Just have to have the right expectations and understand tinker will be required.
afleetcommand -I did end up buying the MS 660 saw kit and built it in one day using the freezer and oven method. I've only run one tank of gas through it I've had no issues so far using no OEM. I don't need it but I wanted to do it as a project so mission accomplished.
But that is the point...:) An affordable build your own concept. If folks wanted an ot of the box ready..OEM's have great stuff ready to go. Although I do have to admit the g660 (Blue Holzfforma labeled version ) Is closer then the kits.
For most that is exactly the right answer. But for those with time and skills, their these or "junk pile" builds are a lot of fun. Difference is these don't require hours in a parts cleaner...:)
So, I tried this to no avail. I still had no high idle. It turns out there is a shim that you can 3D print that will tighten up the selector lever so it will positively engage the trigger for high idle. I printed it and installed it and it worked! I would recommend sourcing out the shim before attempting part replacement due to the difference in cost. It could still be that the selector lever and the trigger are still worn preventing the shim from working; in which case you would still need to replace the parts. This is where I found the fix. It is available for free on Thingiverse: opeforum.com/threads/660-fast-idle-solution-hooray.11450/
@KrKrypton: thanks so much for post the link above to opeforum, because the info there from a couple of people, specifically "traffic903" and "Wood Doctor" (with the Doctor being the creator of the shim fix) has been very helpful. As a very temporary fix I created a rough wooden copy of the shim, and it fixed my problem completely on a few recent uses of my G660 clone. Very interested to see on opeforum (and perhaps here?) that this "660 saw won't start" problem holds also for MS660s (i.e. OEMs) and also MS650s and MS066. Bashing the Chinese cloners, then, seems not to make a hell of a lot of sense though, that said, there are other problems with G660s that don't occur nearly so frequently in OEM Stihls. I will leave a top-level comment also, so that it's easier to find.
I built my first MS660 clone. Not my first go round with a chainsaw. I can't get it to fire. 165 lb. compression, good spark and fuel. I'm ready to throw it out the window. I own a tree service and thought I'd save some money and bought 4 of these, big mistake.
Folks Like U should always buy OEM. First mistake is not knowing who to listen to prior to purchase. Second mistake is not bringing this up on the opeforum.com AFTER where there is a sub forum dedicated to these and those who actually know them. Also I've put up a couple of video's over the last two years on these stubborn starting ones. If you HAVE to have a Farmertec or AM cheapo saw, I would suggest getting the "Blue" powerheads as you fit a category I actually mentioned several times in the video's..:) Last mistake is attack vs.humility. All those saws are probably a tweak or a couple of OEM parts away from being a good saw, if you have time and skills. My suggestion to you is pick one of two paths. Ebay them. Or do a little research, and if you don't have the time or patience...eBay them. Also there is a facebook page dedicated to those kit saws, bet you can find some buyers there as well...:)
I just had this issue and all I did was adjust the trigger spring a little tighter because it wasn’t returning out all the way to set the high idle rod into the groove on the choke rod if that makes sense. You just have to watch what it is doing when you squeeze the trigger and set the choke and you can see what it needs to function.
Oh and cost was $0
Hello Walt, Just wanted to thank you for this video and taking the time to diagnose and document this issue. For anyone doing this repair/upgrade the part Stihl part numbers are. 1122 182 0902 Switch Shaft ( this is the Stihl name for the multifunction lever) and 1122 180 1500 Trigger.
Is the saw you demonstrating on the video the same as a g660 blue thunder?
Bought mine in December 2019, not FT, my kit had the case and cylinder assembled. Same starting problem however; no high idle one click up. Thank you, this may be exactly what I needed. Stay safe in the world and be excellent to each other.
Thank you. I also have a 660 Magnum with a bad cylinder. I decided to cannibalize the generic Stihl and get the old one running. I don't need 2 of them.
I want to point out the post by @KrKrypton below, because in that post is the suggestion that fixed the problem I was having with the Farmertec MS660 that I received late June 2021. Once I closely examined the choke and high-idle positions (as discussed by @afleetcommand in this video) it was clear to me that getting the choke reliably (and repeatably) to position 3 (as some are calling it here) was not happening. Replacing the multi-function starter and trigger didn't change anything for me at all, at least not reliably. It is possible that you will replace these and things might look better for a while - as they did for me - but it returned to the old mode of fitfully not starting on various days, which is very frustrating.
So I cut out a wooden version of the shim that @KrKrypton refers to, and lo and behold, with the back cover and choke air-filter removed, I could now see that the high-idle was engaging for all the tests that I did, whereas prior to inserting the shim, the high-idle would engage from time to time, and then not do so for many tests also.
@KrKrypton's post also has info. on how to get to a site that has a STL file which can be sent to a 3D printer, and from which you can print a more robust version of the shim. I have sent this file to a friend, but have yet to receive the shim, but in the meantime, the wooden shim continues to work.
After almost 2 years of unreliable starts, I am looking forward to something better. I will continue to test the shim once I get it, and in the event this "solution" fails to work, I will post that info here immediately. In the same vein, should the shim continue to work well, then I will post that here also.
Many thanks to everyone for their valuable suggestions.
Fixed mine with just the multi function lever. They look identical but the aftermarket one was flexible enough to be pushed backwards by the throttle spring on the carb and therefore close the butterfly that doesn’t happen with still lever. They are very hard to start if they are effectively choked all the time once they get fuel they have to breathe .The lever detent seems to work but unless you have a close look you will see the butterfly is still closed.
Mine had it to -bought late September 2018. I am doing what you suggest.
Finished my ms660 build as of tonight 7-26-18 and this is still an issue. Going to pick up a trigger and multi-function switch from Stihl tomorrow.
Kit bought in feb of 2020 my ms 660 had no high idle. Just the trigger and safety fix it. Have not changed multi function lever.
I replaced everything - master control lever, throttle rod, trigger, interlock and clip. It worked great after that. I probably could have gotten by replacing less but when you have to wait another two weeks to get better results, it wasn’worth the small difference in cost.
Where'd you buy those parts, it's painful dealing with China
Just noticed on mine The other day that when you set the choke the choke plate would close then it would stick close
With the price on new saws and not having to deal with computers.I have started a new old man saw I got stihl ms180 and a ms250
Walt and Matthew, Just ordered my first MS660 kit and its scheduled for delivery tomorrow so when I get it assembled I will update on whether this issue was present.PS For sure worth mentioning, I ordered my kit on the 28th, really happy to see it arriving in MD in just 9 days....Thanks Farmertec Power Machinery.
The difference is dimensional. The farmertec parts are smaller in diameter and a lot more flimsier than the oem parts. I replaced everything in my 660 on the control lever and throttle parts, including a new clip on the control lever and interlock. I have replaced a lot of parts on my 660 with oem parts and a new husky deco valve
Farmertech carb still on this unit? Thanks for posting....
Know that feeling well. Mine, originally, would not go to high idle, either. I just replaced the farmertec junk with Stihl parts, including, trigger, interlock, throttle rod, master control lever and the clip that hold the control lever on the saw. It worked fine after that. I still could not get it to crank for me and I had to replace the cylinder, piston and reseal it. After that, it ran like it should and is an ease to crank. I have not spent as much money on my 660, as you did. I would estimate I have over $300 in it but not a lot more than that. Most of my additional cost was my personal labor.
Where did you get your DTI 20 K tach?
i noticed the 388 and 366 i feel like im gona break the multi lever when i forse it to choke but not the problem with throttle. the 361 i built i should try this because its dieng on me thank you!
The one that started this for me only needed a new multi function lever. It was to flexable to sit correctly to operate properly. Late 2018 for me.
I put a baileys big bore cylinder and piston in mine ,Husky decomp , factory Stihl gaskets and seals seems to be running good! I altered the throttle rod a bit to get it to idle down! I ordered a Hyway recoil and first time it kicked back it was destroyed! Junk! I ordered a upgraded chain adjuster from cross it has so much play it is junk! I filed a little off the large hutzle chain adjust gear and it works for now! I also reinstalled original recoil for now! Take allot of tweaking and buying parts to get them right! I suspect when Im done I will have all factory Sthil parts piece bye piece ata cost double the price of a factory 660! Fun project though. awsome puzzle!
I have a brand new G660 I am on the 4th tank of gas and up until now it has ran fine I started into a cut and it acted like it ran out of gas which it wasn’t and will not start back. Also the throttle trigger sticks and I have to pull it down.
Hey Walt, could you please do a MS440 460 hybrid. I would really like to see how you do it and hear your thoughts on the build :)
Maybe, kind of wrapped up with other projects for a while
walt I did this upgrade and saw still not correct! It was fine when upright but on its side in alsakan mill trigger locked up! I have also still had trouble as is hard to start! MY deduction is Hudzle carb is junk! So I spent 70 more on a Tiltsom carb! Bolted it on and wow like a quality saw now! It starts in 2 pulls cold and 1 warm like it should! Got her dialed in at 12200 free rev on tach! This is a baileys big bore kit saw! Lay into a log , my bad chain on cold start and clutch blows! LOL I loved this progect but am sure I will have 3000.00 in this thing when crank breaks! These Hudzle saws are Junk! No comparison to factory stihl!
In looking at my 660 after seeing this video it does not go to high idle either! I ordered the choke lever and throttle trigger from stihl! I also put a stihl recoil pulley and pawls on mine!
Is it okay to remove a little bit of the Piston skirt so it doesn't hit on the engine block cuz I had a failure on my 660
Please explain what is going on here.
I have a Stihl 660 MS.
It starts very hard and leaks out of both ends at the same time.
The guy I bought it from bought it new and gave it to me last year because it was such a pain.
He said it was made in China, but the cover says Stihl. Did still sub out to other makers?
The clutch drum is Farmer Tec.
The spark plug is as well.
I will replace the 2 parts you suggested.
Hopefully I can get the carb adjusted so it will actually saw something!
Prolly replace the carb as it sounds like the needle valve isn't working to stop the flow of fuel. On the chicom stuff just replace the carb vs. trying to fix it :) AND if it was a kit saw, don't be surprised if someone has the diaphram for the needle on the wrong side of the gasket. But it sounds like you run them more than fix them so...just get a better carb :) Also most likely a clone, NOT a Stihl. And it takes more than a little mechanical skills to get them right.. a good character building and course in mechanics sounds like its about to happen.
Good work Walt, that was interesting.
Mine is the exact same way. Thanks for showing the fix
I never minded thev won’t start problem but I did mind the “yank your arm off” problem. I still have not resolved that problem but my 660 does not behave like a regular Stihl saw. Instead of a roll over I get a “pop and a yank,” as it attempts to suck my arm back into the starter housing. Usually, I am near the end of the starter rope, so it just yanks it out of my hand and slap the handle against my leg or whatever is in its way going back into the starter. When the weather was hotter and I was wearing shorts - it really smarted. One time it put a cut an blood bruise on my left knee. Now, it is colder so I have on jeans, and it is not as bad when it slaps my left leg. What do you think could be causing the pop?
Are the fuel lines oem?
Walt....is this an issue of a miscast part? Or is it misshapen or an issue of not enough glass fibers in the plastic making it too flexy. ???? What do you think?
both
on some... likely many parts I think they are cheaping out and using regular ABS plastic with minimal glass fiber reinforcement... ie, the 394/5 brake flags. ... a little more glass fiber and the part would be useful. oh well.
Hello Walter, of the farmertec saws what do you recommend as being the most straightforward to built. I understand there is vereation in components over time and each saw will have slightly different challenges. Used saws on Vancouver Island are very expensive so I'm thinking a farmertec is a good platform to experiment / learn on.
Is it even worth it to have these saws?
WOW glad to see that simply swapping-up to OEM on that operator switch isn't "the golden ticket" I expected (would've bought, installed, then been furious that I still can't get half-choke position!) One thing I want to mention is that, while neither of my units do half-choke (they both behave simply as-if they've only got a 3-position switch, Off / On / Choked and going in-or-out of the Choke position requires me to engage the throttle-trigger), I found it interesting that one unit has the smoothest/softest throttle trigger, and the new g660 out of the box has the stiffest trigger-pull (pounds of force to fully engage throttle-trigger) that I've ever felt on a powersaw, but both of their operator-switches, and startup behavior, is nearly identical. Thankfully, for a climber like myself, I err-towards faster Idle settings anyways (I'm a small guy, even starting the 590 from spurs is a to-do :P )
(Though I should mention I can start both units w/o trouble so far, I mean again I've only got 1 on-job use but a dozen at-home tests and a few dozen starts, and have always been able to get a startup on 1-3(usually2) pulls after a choked-turnover! Funnily enough it wasn't until just a year-ish ago that I really understood fast-idles, had always used saws in a "choke/on/off" fashion :P )
Just got a new G660 from Farmatec store. The warm start position does have the throttle open a bit. But it still won’t start :(
Trouble w my G444 too. Will try again this weekend.
@@hvac4u2 Same here. The only way it will cold start is with a small amount of mix poured into the carb and it starts. Have a Stihl MS280 that does not start without mix added. They copied Stihl way too good!
My new G660 showed up too. Some issues. The throttle linkage worked initially, now there is no response when it is blipped. The chain oil dumped a ton of oil on to the clutch and the antikick back bar no longer stops the saw. Any thoughts?
prolly didn't get the "grommet" in the case to pump passage. Either way tear it apart and see.
I would guess that you could replace those parts with good condition s/h OEM, that would make it a bit cheaper.
so is this just an issue with the kit?
I ordered me a prebuilt ms660 clone off amazon(it was the only one available in my region) and it would start just fine, I did replace the choke lever so the partial throttle position would engage wich made it work flawlessly now.
there is one small issue tho, how can I get the c clip for the sprocket on and off without demaging it
I had the issue once that the clip would just jump off and the needle bearing desintegrated on its way out
do I need to modify the washer maybe?
unfortunately didn't really get to use it much so far, but spring is right around the corner^^
As I tried to articulate, they are a moving target. I do believe the "Blue" 660's are much more developed now than the kits I had were. Some of the things we ran into with those early kits have been fixed with the pre assembled g660, as demonstrated with that first one I got. It's what they do. So the answer is maybe...I don't know at this point because I haven't had one of those newer ones to look at and run. Kind of moved on to other saws. I still run my project saws, those "built" 660's are really solid saw now.
I have this problem what are the model number for the two parts trigger and multi function lever I need the two part numbers I just got it a couple days ago so still a problem in December 2018
Just go to your Stihl dealer, lean over the counter and point to them..:) Thats what I did after they got to a 066 part diagram. No idea what the part numbers are.
Still an issue as of August 2018. My stihl dealer told me there wasn't even a part number in his computer for just the trigger, he quoted the whole handle assembly at 198 bucks or something like that. Anybody have stihl part numbers for the master control switch and trigger? Thanks a million
Find another dealer..:)
Switch Shaft 1122 182 0902
Throttle Trigger 1122 180 1500
Your Stihl dealer lied to you.
Walt, there are two choke positions on a Stihl saw - cold start and warm start, both are high idle. The only difference is the choke butterfly is half open in the warm start position and closed in the cold start position. Theoretically, if it is cold enough outside a Stihl saw should start in the cold start position. However, of all of my saws my ms 271 is the only one that will one only occasionally. My guess is either your linkage is messed up or your carb is defective.
This is still an issue as of June 2018 or at least it was on my saw.
My MS 660 has the same issue. Problem for me is the local Stihl Dealer is out of site on parts. He wanted $22.95 for a seal and he did not have it in stock. No telling what he would want for the trigger. Any suggestions on a good oem parts source? thanks, I really enjoy your videos. Been running saws since I was a teen and we are about the same age. ic
Problem is a lot of dealers won't do on line sales as its too much time to handle small orders and they are set up for over the counter type sales instead. Just have to find a different dealer. Mine in town is CNY Farm Supply and they are excellent. But they aren't setup for online or really any thing not face to face over the counter so it's not a place you could use...use the Stihl dealer finder to see what other options are in your area is all I can suggest.
Walt, i just bought a ms660 kit from farmteck is the crank and piston ok or do I need to go ahead and buy another that is more reliable? And what are the parts that are critical to go ahead and swap out?
I did not but I put a new piston and cylinder in my 660. It would just pop and try to pull me back into the starter assembly. It completely broke one starter. IMHO, the reason was the squish was so low because the piston was about .040 to tall and it created an over compression situation and it fired before the piston got to TDC. New piston and cylinder fixed that. Now, it has about the same pull over as my ms 271, which does not have a deco valve. It is now a pleasure to crank and is reliable.
MS660 Parts diagram,www.diyspareparts.com/parts/stihl/diagrams/ms660-magnum/Just a note for others that might be in my position. I am a retired auto tech who has done a lot of drag racing fabrication, so things like installing the crank in the case or figuring out a starting issue are cake to me. However whether its because I am half blind or just old age challenged figuring out where all the tiny parts inside all the unlabeled bags inside the box go is a whole different matter LOL.After some searching I found the diagram of Stihl MS660 parts. This made this task a whole lot easier to understand as I can now clearly identify 95% of the parts and where they go, which should make my build a lot easier whenever I get my missing flywheel key and my 28" bar and chain and some free time.
You are right the controls on a farmertec ms 660 suck. I have never seen a more fragile master control system on any stihl saw. It tris to work like all other stihl saws but the lever is so flimsy you never know which position you are in.
Yup, folks could save a lot of time & hassle just replacing those parts I pointed out with OEM or better Aftermerket...:)
My whole concern is that by the time you add all the OEM replacement parts to the Farmertec kit, are you really saving that much money over just buying an OEM saw?
You do the math......a Blue g660 for $319 delivered and maybe $150 in parts. Show me a OEM 90cc anything in that price range that's not beat to chit..:) BUT if you are a pro, the extra $500 for a Husqvanra 390xp OEM saw with a warranty and dealer support is MORE than worth the extra cost, one day down makes up that money! For a hobby type who likes to tinker or even a firewood/farm part time sawyer who likes to tinker it's tough to beat one of those g660's. Just have to have the right expectations and understand tinker will be required.
afleetcommand -I did end up buying the MS 660 saw kit and built it in one day using the freezer and oven method. I've only run one tank of gas through it I've had no issues so far using no OEM. I don't need it but I wanted to do it as a project so mission accomplished.
Nice. Very good
Español
Is OEM really from stihl? Or is the part from another after market Chinese company. Thank you for your awesome videos
You had to swap out enough parts on that one to call it a 660 Custom.
But that is the point...:) An affordable build your own concept. If folks wanted an ot of the box ready..OEM's have great stuff ready to go. Although I do have to admit the g660 (Blue Holzfforma labeled version ) Is closer then the kits.
ive dealt with these & i found its much easier just to buy a real stihl & be done.
For most that is exactly the right answer. But for those with time and skills, their these or "junk pile" builds are a lot of fun. Difference is these don't require hours in a parts cleaner...:)
So, I tried this to no avail. I still had no high idle. It turns out there is a shim that you can 3D print that will tighten up the selector lever so it will positively engage the trigger for high idle. I printed it and installed it and it worked! I would recommend sourcing out the shim before attempting part replacement due to the difference in cost. It could still be that the selector lever and the trigger are still worn preventing the shim from working; in which case you would still need to replace the parts.
This is where I found the fix. It is available for free on Thingiverse:
opeforum.com/threads/660-fast-idle-solution-hooray.11450/
@KrKrypton: thanks so much for post the link above to opeforum, because the info there from a couple of people, specifically "traffic903" and "Wood Doctor" (with the Doctor being the creator of the shim fix) has been very helpful. As a very temporary fix I created a rough wooden copy of the shim, and it fixed my problem completely on a few recent uses of my G660 clone. Very interested to see on opeforum (and perhaps here?) that this "660 saw won't start" problem holds also for MS660s (i.e. OEMs) and also MS650s and MS066. Bashing the Chinese cloners, then, seems not to make a hell of a lot of sense though, that said, there are other problems with G660s that don't occur nearly so frequently in OEM Stihls. I will leave a top-level comment also, so that it's easier to find.
I built my first MS660 clone. Not my first go round with a chainsaw. I can't get it to fire. 165 lb. compression, good spark and fuel. I'm ready to throw it out the window. I own a tree service and thought I'd save some money and bought 4 of these, big mistake.
Folks Like U should always buy OEM. First mistake is not knowing who to listen to prior to purchase. Second mistake is not bringing this up on the opeforum.com AFTER where there is a sub forum dedicated to these and those who actually know them. Also I've put up a couple of video's over the last two years on these stubborn starting ones. If you HAVE to have a Farmertec or AM cheapo saw, I would suggest getting the "Blue" powerheads as you fit a category I actually mentioned several times in the video's..:) Last mistake is attack vs.humility. All those saws are probably a tweak or a couple of OEM parts away from being a good saw, if you have time and skills. My suggestion to you is pick one of two paths. Ebay them. Or do a little research, and if you don't have the time or patience...eBay them. Also there is a facebook page dedicated to those kit saws, bet you can find some buyers there as well...:)