Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
HyWay MS660 56mm Cylinder and Farmertec MS660 56mm cylinder Back to Back
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 28 янв 2017
- Basically used the same bar chain sprocket and cut cookies from HARD and frozen maple...with a tap or two to keep things interesting. Results? Might surprise you, but was pretty much what I expected.
These parts can be had from "huztl.net" and HLSupply
Fantastic video! Extremely glad to see the promotion of PPE! Gets doing Saw demos without chaps really gets my goat! Newbies do what they see and hear. People with twenty years under their belts slip up and get hurt or killed by being lax that day. Someone is seriously injured daily while running a Saw.... Safty First! 😀👍👍
fleet and human ,, good to see yall here , really good videos for sure !! i live in north east texas i love to hunt and fish and collect old chain saws its a passion of mine ,, a chain saw is my best friend i always keep a sthil ms 271 farm boss in the tool box in my truck and i have a new echo cs 450 next to it ,, i can be stuck in the middle of nowhere on a hunting trip and my chainsaw is always my fav tool ,, i can get my truck un stuck on a muddy road and build a overnight shelter and campground with plenty of fire wood ,, i love it its a man thing ... chainsaws are cool as shit .. again thanks for the great videos , oh by the wayi do small engine repair i cant hold a candle to you cool cats but i enjoy working on 2 cycle engines and the carburetors and fuel systems ,, 40 yrs ....
Got a PPE user right here got my gear at Christmas time and been wearing it ever since. Great video thanks for the kit links
yet another great video and as a construction worker I love you taking the time to talk ppe so many people don't get how important it is till it's too late. I ha e always said I love love
all my fingers and toes and I want to keep them
Excellent video. Your narration and discussion is very good.
Walt, I like the addition of ppe use one never thinks how important it is until after they needed it.
As for the chin strap issue I retrofitted mine with a strap from the local Safety Gear Store, used for rope climbers and such. Works great for just a few bucks and installs easily with just a little ingenuity. Now mine stays on even with the muffs up.
great video Walt.I agree with investing in good PPE and getting some practical experiance befor getting to deep into the saw fever.Take care MJ
Another great vid Walt!
i have a really good customer that brought me a stihl ms 271 ,, he gave it to me it got dropped out of a tree broke the handle and someone ran strait gas in it and burned the top end ,, i really like the vidoes fleet has on aftermarket top ends on huskies and the bling saws its really good info ,,another customer of mine gave me a stihl ms 290 farm boss that someone ran strait gas in and screwed the pooch on the top end .. those are really nice 50 cc class saws that i hate to part out but if a aftermarket top end will work as good as oem i dont see why they cant be fixed and fixed right as good as new
I agree, we could have alot better protective equipment, most people will pay more for better ergonomics, features, styling and functionality. Climbing gear and rigging can be awesome with all the engineering that goes into devices and setups, and all the different metals, colors and everything together it's mechanical art to a degree!!!
with so many modifications needed on these kits it's like the factories never put one together into a running saw
They have but the places that market these parts are in the spare parts business vs. complete manufacturing. Their are are others who do try and sell complete saws through other channels in other world markets, not certain all the bits and pieces are the same. Suspect not. But you bring up an excellent point. And that is actually if you were to factor in your time at the rate you are being paid at your day job.....OEM is probably cheaper!
Every time you pick up a chainsaw say out loud 110 stitches make sure you have good PPE and get trained or watch a LOT of youtube
I would like to see hutzl 56mm/ Cross comparison with the Husqvarna 281 you have teased us with and if it's not close to these then maybe try it with a 54mm/288 top. I love my 288 to me it feels better than my 660 (never gotten any times)
They are in the same ball park. Cylinder design is similar. A 288 is a strong saw.
afleetcommand I am seriously considering one of these kits or perhaps the 440 ( have any experience with those?) just for the entertainment value,more enjoyable than Television!!!
Thanks again (your videos are also much more entertaining than TV!!)
Have you had a chance to use the preassembled housing and top end yet from Hutzl? I was wondering how the quality was.
Nope, assembled mine from scratch.
Thanks for getting back,do you still have free port with the Hyway top end ?
Not noticeable and I think one thing is obvious to me....the free port on the Farmertecs is not enough to matter on the saws I have. Obviously didn't hurt cutting performance..:)
I buy older saws. I use the aftermarket jugs so I can hop up the saw without altering the stock one to hold value. I have never seen a gain over OEM with the aftermarkets until they are ported. Except for that new cross unit, I believe the aftermarket builds in safety factor. I just bought a meteor. It's touted as the closest to OEM there is. It's really no better than the others Ive bought. I'm going to get a cross for my 064. Here's a link to the pants. www.shforestrysupplies.com/advancedwebpage.aspx?CategoryText1=Safety&CategoryText2=Protective%20Clothing&CategoryText3=Chainsaw%20Protection&LastStraightCategory=Safety&SBCatPage=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5bvEBRCM6vypnc7QgMkBEiQAUZftQCVMX7Vy9wKf7BduYLo03EkYc3Bhy4QiqFOzjoB1MgUaAuL28P8HAQ
I'm late to the party, but would like to know your opinion on the 58mm Hy way top end for the Husqvarna 395xp. I love the saw and I'm hesitant to mess with it. But I got the big bore kit very cheap.
Really can't comment as I haven't used one. From experience with other Hyway parts, I would expect it to be one of the better Aftermarket options.
Walt, I seem to remember you wearing the lighter weight (blue)Husky chaps. Did you find them to be too light to be safe or just reserved for summer use? Secondly, I took a 2 1/2# Boy's Ax head and put a beautiful 21" handle on it. Makes a great wedge pounder that you can still comfortably wear on a belt. Would make a great replacement tool for that kindling hatchet that you have on your belt now, but to each his own, just a thought - and I think it'd be cool if you did that with a vintage ax head from your area. Always enjoy your vids!
Sounds like a great idea!
Cool....Glad you liked it!
hey Walt where's a good place to buy a cylinder kit for a jonsered 2054 or is there another cylinder that will fit to mod it
Thats a bob question..I will try and find out
where do you source these puzzle saws? Can you get a compete saw kit?
I got most of my parts off ebay & a few from the local Stihl dealer, did these before before kits were available. And now local folks are buying kit saws and asking me to assemble them! ....which I don't do. ( I have and will assemble the cases but thats it. ) There is a relatively new website where those complete parts kits seem to be available.....
www.huztl.net
My sources are a little out of date, so if you are interested there is a current group of guys posting on arboristsite.com and they would have the latest and greatest sources for these parts or kits.
What does the farmertec 56mm weigh with bar and fueled?
Never put it on the scale.....I will do that, excellent question. AND there are those who want to know the weight relative to things like the new 661's and Husqvarna 390's...even the 288's.
This might sound like an ignorant question. If you buy a kit from the site linked in the comments, does it come compete less bar and chain?
No bar and chains..:) Although they apparently sell bar and chains. I personally prefer Oregon or Stihl chain and Total brand bars....but Total went out of business so will find another source of the tsumara brand that is where the totals came from...just relabeled.
@afleetcommand
interesting, kinda like building an AR15. Are there any specific parts that should be swapped with Stihl OEM? I also have a lathe (17" South end) and Bridgeport so making necessary "fitting" adjustments isn't a problem.
Yup you nailed it! Same type of fun. Yes all my saw puzzles have OEM parts blended in. Truth is if you add up your time and the OEM parts, your close to OEM price points as well. But then there is the fun factor. I still like the FT 56mm's even though you might have to get two to get a good one. Also I prefer OEM rubber parts throughout. Seals, Impulse line etc. And I have been using used Walbro's to fix the low speed tuning issues. I have had good AM carb's but often the Walbro just saves time and hassle. But each one is unique so every saw project with these is an adventure. Can't predict all the little things you might encounter. Chain Adjusters is another where creativity is the rule not the exception.
afleetcommand
Thanks for the info. I might give building one a go in the near future.
I'll be honest...im an offender when it comes to PPE. I always wear safety glasses and ear plugs, but know thats not enough. Husqvarna Chaps will be bought very soon, and I do believe Husqvarna also makes a helmet/ear muff combo I may purchase as well. The idea of one of these big saws kicking up on me does give me the willys.
It should....they can make a mess in a hurry!
Does the Hyway saw vibrate alot ?
Not any more than the other ones....they all vibrate more than the OEM's. The Hyway is a good build. A few details I had to work out. The carb's linkage. Also tweaked the "notch" in the throttle plate and centered that plate better. Idles better. Not Walbro nice, but its better than in the video...
What are these's saws tuned at ?
About 12900-13000 no load
I'm looking at a 371 XP with a brand new top end do u think it's worth 350 bucks
Yup, if its complete and running its worth every penny of that. Don't be afraid to get new crank seals put in, its not expensive. Typically when a top end goes, folks will drop another one on it and not fix the source of the problem. Also is that top end Husqvarna or AM? Even if its AM its worth around that much, just thats not a great deal, just a fair one.
thank you very much I was thinking about talking them down on it alittle bit or trying to get them to throw a 24 in bar in with the saw
and how long before ya find a tap with one of these???lol
Like cut number 2!
anyone who doesn't wear chaps should Google "chainsaw injuries"
I don't need to use Google. I just look at the pictures of my own bloody self (pants, socks, floor......) when I ganked my own knee. Was only a glancing blow. Spoiler alert: That's all it takes. I wear chaps like a religion now.
Here in Sweden almost everyone wear saw pants instead of chaps and in all the videos I've seen from usa everyone wear chaps, is it because its warmer weather and it gets hot?
More ignorance over here is my guess, certainy why I don't have any. I will try saw pants...Has to be easier to deal with, right? Not to be a smart azz....but with chaps its a pita to take a peee in the woods! That alone makes saw safety pants a better option. Does Husqvarna market something like that over in Sweden??
afleetcommand yeah, I have a pair myself! Although they are pretty thick and warm. I bought pretty cheap ones wich is why they are so thick. They work great but I know stihl make some nice ones too.
I wear Stihl chainsaw pants, they are roughly the same price in Quebec as chaps and they double as my snow pants in winter. Have people stated tapping maple trees there yet?
I never saw a pair of chaps outside of a dealer showroom until I moved away from Nova Scotia, it was always pants. The local pulp mill belonged to Stora, so safety and environmental practices were under heavy Swedish influence.
I know this is late, but I think you are correct in thinking the issue with chaps is temperature related. There are some places in the USA like New York, Minnesota, North Dakota where it gets God forsaken cold and the pants are probably the better choice at least 3 months out of the year.
West Virginia gets cold enough but it isn't in the same league as Canada or Sweden so we will probably stick with the chaps. Besides you can remove the chaps quickly and go to a gas station or a grocery store and not look goofy.
Interesting geographical take on PPE differences.
Do you think there is much performance gain upgrading from 54mm to 56mm farmertec ? Thanks for making these videos
There is if both are left "un modified" AND if they have finally corrected the casting/machining/plating issues...I have avoided the 56mm top ends for a while now.
"It doesn't matter" (Re the comparison-between these jugs) I disagree, but I also disagree with your entire approach to "comparison" here -- must be clear that this is with the highest respect & having watched almost/all of your 660-content (am running/building 2 units for work right now, well 1 unit needs another break-in I just put my 1st 56mm setup on!)
I disagree with this approach because, so far as I can tell, you're ONLY able to compare port time-area effects (am unsure if squish is kept constant?) of THIS BATCH of f.tec or Hyway or Cross, and they're all "close enough" to OEM-portage that this testing - when done w/o the strictest setups (ie *not* having 1 unit that's broken-in, and assuming we disentangle that on-the-fly or even quantitatively afterwards to a strong degree...break-in should be anywhere from 5 to 15% power AFAIK!)
I think you're operating under a "plug&play" presumption, IE units are literally just un-boxed & installed?
I'm new to this, have 2 units I'm working with (both building them, and just taking-to-work lol), both were ported 54mm's but I decided to "check out" 56mm's because ALL of the complaints people have, seemed easy-enough to work-around (am actively undertaking this right now, I put up a video here last night Re "overcoming their deficiencies"!)
Comparing aftermarket cylinders.....IMO this isn't a port-time-area thing (which we'd test at the bench, not by cut-comparisons, right?), because they're going to be very close *and* are not truly indicative (could be Hyway's best batch, and f.tec's worst, you'd need more samples for this specific type of testing you're doing to have any value, statistically speaking), all EXCEPT for the Cross IIRC because doesn't that have intentionally-altered ports ("MMWS porting"? Still confused on this one...do have 1 jug with mmws engraved on it but its ports seem identical except transfers but that was porter-done work as far as I knew!)
IMO the useful way to compare them is to compare:
- Ring of death? How common is an un-plated top? How un-plated can it be? The two 56m's I have, from the same batch (unknown/possibly f.tec, made July '21), both have >200thousandths of unplated top, literally cannot run these units with a top-ring so am doing 1-ring'd builds (my understanding is this means less longevity/reliability; *subtley* lower power in the lower-ranges; *higher* power at >6k RPM, wherein the friction of the 2nd ring impinges upon optimizing speed -- from "2 stroke tuner handbook"[Jennings])
Nevermind the pistons....the pistons on 56mm kits, and I confirmed this is also with Hyway (got word from Wolf Creek that the Hyway 56mm slugs are same short-height, and The Duke also confirms this is the case with all of them), now this is BAD I'm clocking 82-83 thou short (5 is in the crown, the rest is in the skirting), out-of-box a no-gasket setup was great EXCEPT its intake-duration was ~210deg!! Well, *is*, because I'm actually about to run it that way, see how it even performs, I have JB Weld probably cured by now in my other unit, and should be able to port that guy shortly and'll post a video when done because these are work-saws for me and am planning to do 56mm big bores on both (can't think of any good reason NOT to!!)
Freeporting isn't a concern they BARELY escape it, sure you can't machine it BUT its chamber is already well over 10% tighter than an OEM 54mm's, and even if it were identical that'd already mean higher compression (because the chamber should be enlarged with the bore, otherwise comp.ratio changes), so I was VERY stoked when I found 1.17cc tighter chamber on the 56mm's (both 56mm's, compared to a subtly-machined 54mm so it's probably a couple/several CC's tighter but it's at-least a 1.17cc / ~11% tighter chamber so machining is simply unnecessary when that's the case because your compression-boost is already there (they machine the chambers VERY well, bands too, on these ones, unlike the 54mm's with pock-marked bands, was happy to see that!) Nevermind that the plug holes on top are deeper holes so, if inclined & capable, one could shorten them to normal heights (dropping plugs deeper, to 'normal' protrusions into chamber) and probably snag nearly 1/2 to 3/4th CC extra which would nearly double it IE 28% tighter instead of 14%, that's crazy compression-gains, even if it were a 54mm jug, but adding that extra displacement to the bottom that a 56mm has and I can tell you before having tried that that rope is gonna be STIFF (hmmm, think I'll go & order a D-handle right now, so I've got it when-needed ;D )
Thanks as always for your great collection, it was such a huge library of info for me (still is) in working these 660 clones, so cool of you to post this all I hope you sold a TON of them & did very very well on it!!