How To Make A Farmertec/Huztl ms660 Kit Saw & Holzfforma g660 Work Ready :) & Homelite XL925 Debug
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Homelite S-XL925 Fuel Line Repair along with the things I do to all the Huztl Sourced MS660's I have in my saw fleet.
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Really enjoying the farmertec build videos as well as the whole channel..
the 925 is a classic. glad to see someone else still putting the time in to keep one running. they're made to cut
I’ve replaced the throttle pieces and the tensioner pieces . Could you show the shimming of the tensioner, in detail? Have both the Farmer Tec and the Neo Tec. Making mod’s you suggest.
I had such good luck with the Hutzl parts at first and now I get nothing but frustrations with the same problems you have been having, but my Stihl dealer sure likes the orders.
For once we agree - the 660 is a hell of a saw. Reliable, plenty to of power with only one drawback - weight. I have a 28 inch bar with LGX chain on it. It will fly through big wood. On the control lever problem - I replaced, everything with Stihl parts - lever, trigger, clip interlock and throttle rod. It works great, just like it should. I also went through several Farmertec carbs before I found one that worked right.
Fuel line for the Homelite - improvise, adapt and overcome. One of those push in elbows the use on the 660 would also work with some plastic line to the carb.
I put my ms 660 in storage condition, yesterday, after 18 months in operation mode. I cranked it up and let it run for 15 minutes for its monthly run and then dumped the gas out of it. It recranked with one pull and I had poured a swig of StaBil in the tank to mix with the remaining gas in the tank.. you cannot get all the gas out of the tank just by pouring it out. That sucker idled for another 15/minutes before it finally shut off. I pushed it into full choke and pulled it several more times to get any remaining gas out of the carb,. It rolled over twice. I then loosened the chain a few turns, cleaned it up a bit and put it back on its slot on the shelf. I did not need the 660, since my 440 is doing so well and if I need a longer bar I can put my 25 inch bar on the 440 or 391. The 660 is a solid saw and as reliable as any of my Stihl saws.
I enjoy ur video thank you for sharing knowledge and opening doors for others to hv success with this hobby....my question is concerning an old saw that no dealer wants to help with I'm treated as if I should throw it away and buy a new sthil which I hv 2 still under warranty and I must say I had a claim and after 3 weeks and some pics sthil handed me a new saw so props to sthil for standing behind their saw..My question is this...I have a John deere 80ev which is basic lyrics a echo 750 evl it's 79cc mule and old spent it's life on a shelf...the saw is mint but my ignition is toast only my fly wheel is good and there are no ignition to be found and few of the 80ev around I find 50s 60s but no 80s ...anyway I need some type of an ignition that will work with my flywheel the magnets are on the inside
...can you tell me anything aftermarket or any way u can think of how I can build an ignition ? I'm an old go kart racer ran Mac 101s Yamaha ect so I know a little but can't find anyway to make an ignition for this old deere
....Can you offer any advice? I live in a farming town and theses small engine shops make labor so high most buy new saws but this old Deere has value to me it still has an old banana bar on it ....any help advice anything will be greatly appreciated
...I would like to know where to buy good tools for working on saws I've found I enjoy this an thanks to you i plan to build an 066 but would love to hear ur advice on this ev80 besides throw it away
I really don't have any knowledge in that arena, I DO have the same saw, but it sits as a display. I ever even checked to see if it runs.
My goodness look for that holes in mufflers! Nice!!!!!
Buddy can you make me a tool for assembly of the crank in a ms660 chainsaw. After watching your video on it can you possibly send me a quote
The decomp, I drill a hole through the side, all the way through and file around the post to make a groove. Fill the button with epoxy and press it back on the post. Never an issue.
Hi Walt. I had to go back into my Stihl 029 that I rebuilt two years ago. The cylinder rings, crank and seals were fine but this dumb ass used Permatex Red to seal it up with and the gas destroyed this sealant. I never liked the 49mm jug that I used on it and wish I had used the standard 46mm jug - I have, now. I ordered a tube of TB1184 off Ebay but the seller stiffed me, so I used Permatex anaerobic sealant on the new 46mm jug. One problem I faced was I used the Chinese fuel and impulse lines that came with my new jug. It caused me to have to go back into the 029 and put real Stihl fuel and impulse lines. That big Chinese fuel line would kink in a heartbeat in the limited space in the carburetor compartment. I now have two tanks on it with a more than rich break in fuel. I added about 10ml extra to the tank before I filled it with my standard 50:1 mix. In the future I will always use Stihl fuel lines and I used Stihl seals on this rebuild, although the Chinese seals in the 49mm build did well and were still tight on the crank after 15 tanks on the engine. I did use Husqvarna two cycle on the assembly, because I had a big bottle of it in the shop and filled my pneumatic oiler up with it and I was very liberal in my use of it. I now know why you stick to Husqvarna parts on your builds and I will use as many Stihl parts on my builds as I can. I talked to the service manager at my local Yamaha and Artic Cat dealer and he told me they use Permatex Ultra Black on their rebuilds and it is as good as 1184.
Rapalas are my favorite lures, I like em in black also....I change out the trebles for singles, a lil better wiggle, and easier releases as a result. Enjoy your day.
Re clutches, what's the danger in just waiting for a problem? Am curious because one of my units is upgraded to OEM, the other is not, am not sure if I wanna pre-emptively upgrade the clutch on the mostly-aftermarket unit (just got it, full-wrap pre-assembled blue unit, my other is from orange/white kit like yours in this vid, only it's already got all the relevant OEM upgrades all the way through the carb, rim sprocket etc etc) Was really wanting to see my new, blue unit "go relatively-untouched" for a bit, just to see "the usual fail-patterns" of a well-cared-for unit, but - like swapping-up to Caber rings - some things just make sense to do *before* they fail (decomp plugs, too!)
I did the same thing to my 460, yesterday morning - replaced the control lever. I guess it took an hour and one half, but I work slower than you do.😀
Put a little 1184 on the grommet. If it will go in, it will work.. I put a little 1184 on all fuel and bar oil grommets.
If you put a little grease on the rubber surface on the air filter it will keep it sealed and keep dust from getting around it. That is an old drag racer trick.
I have a stupid question, should I knock the guide pins out? thank you sir.
the 066 are a brillent saw
Mr. Walt, as to the Hyway clutch, does it engage at a lower rpm? I have contemplated oem springs to attain a lower rpm engagement. Thanks again for excellent information.
Never really checked to be honest.
I did better power for dollar with 395 but I know what your saying I just don't want to make the jump the husky are so nice but I like some others to
660 problem my 660 dies after cut? I’m pretty good with saws been rebuilding them for over a year now but I just can’t figure this one out.......iv been all over the carb adjustments still same problem
Can't ever diagnose over the internet. Have to start with the basics.... usually those symptoms are about either an air leak somewhere or low compression.
That Unshaped tool looks like a shotgun barrel straightener, at least it looks like the one I used to use.
What are the total bars longevity like,I was looking for a replacement 32" for my 660
I would like to see a "how to" on the carb setup/repair side of things, the saw is how old? the people who ran/worked on the are going the way of those saws, also the information is dying. Guys like the one in upstate you and Bob visited. think about it if no one is talking about it/working on it the information is gone...
Those are clutch tools correct ? well thats my vote/guess given your past experience/hobby
Where do you get the complete kit for the Chinese 066? I really would like to buy a kit for my chainsaw mill.
www.farmertec.com/
What is are the part numbers for the trigger parts?
I went to my dealer and let him figure that out
I wonder with all the "quality upgrades" they did this fall if any of these things you do you won't. I guess we'll find out wont we?
What is your take on the current hutzl 372 kit? I am a project /machinist/ fixer of all things broken from lathes/cars/milling machines/chainsaws etc etc.
Cost therefore Risk is low, if it looks like a fun project go for it, worst that can happen it your out couple hundred bucks!
Did the Hyway handlebars turn out to be stronger than the Farmertec ones?
yes, worth every penny
Do you have a link for decomp replacement?
www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-044-MS660-046-MS460-066-MS441-MS361-MS390-MS290-Decomp-Plug/221622570434?hash=item3399bc0dc2:g:X-8AAOSwF1dUSTM~
I'm building a 660 and I read that the break in time is between 3-5 tanks. Is this correct? And is that at 1/4-1/2 throttle at no load or with a load?
Don't over analysis this stuff. Just run the thing as you would normally. I usually do a couple of heat cycles on the first tank, then just run it. Break in has more to do with the rings seating over a period of time and as a concept is separate from some procedure about the best way to operate a new engine of any kind.
( Heat cycles = run it, shut it off, let it cool, run it again )
Now its time for the pm 700 macs! Do you still have the super pro 81 from a past video?
Yes, they have been a frustration. The Homie's all pretty much just needed fuel line and carb kits and they are good to go. The Mac's....all of them except the big 660-650's which also seem to be pretty easy. But ALL the 700's and 55's have fuel starvation or air leak issues I haven't been able to find and work around ....yet. Might just be bad carbs....but 4 of them?? :) The 81 has a cylinder with the chrome flaked off. That's going to be re-plated at some point.
I collect macs. I have carb problems with 100% of them. i think the seat for the needle in the walbro sdc carbs goes bad. I have a 700,800 and 81 and switched to zama c2 carbs used on 800s and 850s....what a difference. You have great vids. Thanks.
Thank you and thank you for the path to try. I have three PM700's that will start but display fuel starvation issues...
How mush for that chainsaw? ? I will be the only one to have a running one here. ?? In new Zealand Invercargill
Which One? The FT660's are easy enough to replicate. The Homelite 925....not for sale... You see them from time to time on eBay for anywhere from $50 bucks to $250 bucks. Plenty of them still around, the most certainly pasted the test of time.
afleetcommand Cheers.👍 mate
Great video, how long do these kits take to build ?
Depends on your skill set. And for most, just get the complete saw vs. learn the art of kit saw kraft. These kits's Certainly not for everyone, not a paint by the numbers exercise. They ALL need "debugging" and a fair amount of skill & tools to accomplish that. :)
You do that on all of them, everyone one of them huh
Yup
I built a 044 huztl this winter, worked great. Tried to start it in hot weather and it won't run. What should I look for?
Basics.....compression, fuel,air, spark...:) I haven't build a Huztl 440 so not familiar. Same situation on the 660 I would be looking at carb and controls.
If you want to upgrade your saw put a Bosch WSR6F spark plug in it and not a BPMR7A. The Bosch plug is a lot more reliable than the NGK plug and It will fire when wet. They will also last a lot longer than other plugs. Any saw that I depend on to crank every time- has a Bosch plug in it. NGK plugs are ok but Bosch are better and I get them from my local Stihl dealer, even though I have to pay a premium for them. I also do not have to re-gap them to.020, as I do NGK plugs. Just put them in the saw.