SO glad to have found your channel (after >6mo of just devouring all the basics on carbs/saws (ttheory stuff) as well as Steve's Saloon and DonyBoy's stuff) and it seems one of the best "bridges" for someone like me who routinely grabs curb-side gear and gets it operational (for my arsenal or give/sell away, just love saving a 2-stroke from the trash ;D ), someone who's got a great feel for why chainsaws fail & how to fix them, & how to tune them as optimal-as-possible for any given situation/geography.....but in "rebuild+modify"ing my 1977 poulan 25d, or even my Tanaka TCS33edtp that's now fixed (was 'totalled' according to the jerk who sold it or rather gave it to me in-lieu of $25 payment for a tree job I'd helped with....considering he still owes me, & that I'd always liked this Tanaka/Hitachi model, am now considering myself to be broken-even on his non-payment ;D ) Am getting quite confident in diagnosing&fixing but, short of opening-up the air-intakes (allowing more, cleaner air than OEM on most of my 2 strokes) and maybe opening mufflers a lil, I'm ignorant of how to proceed so going to just do baby-steps (can remove more, can't add it back!!) adn post pics to see if I'm on the right track!! Went to Ace, expecting they'd have Stihl Motomix, they did have Husqvarna's but it bugs me they use a semi- (not full-) synthetic oil at any rate Steve('s Saloon) has a great vid on fuel and while I'm sure any pre-mix is superior to thtte best I can muster mixing eth-free blends @home, the Stihl Motomix is just tops I mean it's like the 'jet fuel' for chainsaws not just clean but way higher% of the good parts of petrol and low/no bad parts, just refined/high-end fuel prepped for 2-strroke usage (and Stihl's 2-stroke oil is a full synthetic, was surprised Husq had blendned as their Poulan Pro subsidiary has full-synthetic 2-stroke-oil (thatt's what I use, love the 1-gal-pre-measured lil bottles!) Did like the Husq pre-mix was 95 oct., am uncertain how Stabil plays-into this (and if it's worth using *any* for me, as I make a fresh gallon of 2-stroke at least 1x/wk and always pour-out the old when doing so (and load-up on just great, fresh boat fuel / eth free w/ 45:1 synthetic & some "ISO HEET" added (this is for mostt engines here in humid FL!!) Really wanna find 'fuel bags' so I can eliminate air inside my containers to stop evap., fuel is so damn fussy I can't wait til I can get a 60-80V lipo setup that can handle 3/4+ of an average day :D
I find it fascinating that the larger Stihl aftermarket parts are so much more less expensive than smaller models, in some cases almost half the cost. I've considered getting a bigger Stihl just to play with in the wood pile but I'm at my weight limit with an 046. A few hours of flinging a 75cc saw near kills me. Maybe that's why the parts are so low cost for the big dogs?
I checked the base gasket and it looks nice. The streaks I saw were probably from the gas I put down its snout to help get it going. I finally have it rolling over but have not got it to run, yet. Probably those junky controls. The new Stihl control parts should be in this week. Preferably sooner because my arm is getting tired and my patience even more.
I put 1184 on my ms660 build, too. On the case, on both sides of the gasket and on the cylinder flange. I have not seen any leaks, yet. Call it overkill if you want but I hate bottom end leaks. I also put a little 1184 on the intake boot flange, too, just like you. I wish I could 1184 the master control lever to make it work, properly. However, I did oil them with wd40 and they seem to work a little better. I am still going to replace them and the junk in the handle.
Pretty new to two stroke problems. I inherited a 660 when I moved back to the family farm. Got it up and running and after about 5 min of running the saw it died and I can’t get it restarted. I’m going to order a compression gauge kit and see what it looks like but would you have any recommendations of what else I should be looking at?
Do you ever have any old kit 660s laying around ? I work at a stihl dealer and we see a decent amount of these saws running around and I’d love to get my hands on one that’s had a good amount of time on it and examine the construction after commercial use
I guess as I said years back, it depends on your expectation level. If you expect OEM level of quality & stability out of the box, u will be frustrated. If you are looking to lean saw mechanic's, tweak and modify into a work ready machine, about the best place to start. I would prolly go with the g395 first given the choices now, but I had a LOT of fun, cut a LOTs of wood and learned a lot from that 660 kit saw experience. Actually taking a used OEM 660 and bringing it back is on my bucket list. And as always I show real time my true feelings... If a saw lasts on the channel there is a reason, if it's a two video then out... :)
Hi ! I'm trying to remove a 262xp cylinder that I have put together with the paper gasket and loctite 515 as a sealant. Now it is glued togeter real tight. Any advise on how to break it apart without breaking anyting?
afleetcommand hello great video !was wondering if there is any info on porting a husky 262 I want to do this but can't find out how anyhelp would be great!!
Hey , I was wondering if the big bore kit is still running ok? did it feel more powerful than the 54mm cylinder? just curious if its worth the upgrade. I do port saws (no machine work yet, but alter intake exh and transfers)and build kits so I have no issues grinding to adjust timing or clean up the flash and bevels around ports etc. what are your thoughts?
It is and I actually just sent it down the road thru an auction. Needed space for more projects saws. It ran fine even with the "free port" it had :) . I prolly would stick with a 54mm as the last of those I still have is the "Farmer Jones" build with a 54mm and a finger port. It's still making chips. I lent it out to my SIL to clear land with. That entire 660 kit saw turned out pretty well when selective OEM parts were added to the brew.
Hello Walt another great video Thanks for that!!! I have a question about your Sugihara and Total Bar's do you get those from Bob? or perhaps another source any insight would be greatly appreciated....Stay Safe and have FUN!!!
afleetcommand Thanks for your timely response, I will give Bob a call Monday. I need a couple new bar's just have to decide between a 28"or a 32" for my 7900, I am getting to old to bend over while limbing! My 32" from my 288 works great but I think a 28" would also fit the bill while saving a couple bucks on the bill....
Here's my 064 with a new style Farmertec 56mm top end.. I basically did what you did, cleaned up the ports and chamfers a little, I didn't use the base gasket.. I noticed these cylinders have a very wide squish band with a small chamber... I've run a couple tanks through it and it's doing well.. 210 psi compression. I just installed a decomp on it because this was just too much ruclips.net/video/KGqaitWLAFw/видео.html
I love my 66 n 44 I use them alot n only replaced air filter spark plug n sprocket since new my friends rave about huskeys but I've replaced more parts on there saws for them for saws 2 n 4 years old then my 21 year old stihl I would love to up grade to new 662 or mybe huskey but every tree guy I get my wood for both have problems with the new electronic on carbs parts it seems
Husqvarna went through the pains of those CARB complaint saws back 2010-2012. Stihl is going through it now. Husqvarna is out the other side for the most part. Stihl will be just a matter of time. Of the Husqvarna's with the "new" Autotunes, the 576 came out the best.
It may make a cylinder swap easier by sliding the intake off the cylinder side. There is less crumpleing of the intake and removing the carb wouldnt be necessary. I use a slot screw driver with some electrical tap so I dont puncture the intake if I slip. Just pry under and the top and it will clear just fine,
I use transmission assembly lube inside the intake. Its not grease and has no corrosive properties and creates a seal, doesnt dry and makes removal easy. I even experimented with it to seal the carb without the ring and expander washer. It worked till I could get the parts.
I just got two 56 mm farm etc I think they are the ones you said you can't get. maybe you already know about him but I get all my aftermarket stuff from Ryan at Wolfcreeksaw in Colorado he's great to deal with
To make room for these new projects....It proved itself a success in the woods. SO I can only run a few saws...I move the "successful" builds to the retirement home, and the unsuccessful builds get broken down and the good parts end up in another saw, the bad...in the trash. That first is one of my all time best and all time favorite saws.
terrific videos. I just bought 2 more of these aftermarket 660s. I am going to play with the 54 mm cylinders and keep out the base gasket and probably going to have to make a pop-up. just to see what happens. I do have 2, 56 MMS . have you tried it already? must say again terrific videos for people like me thanks
I've swapped a few top ends, the 54's are the most consistent. Have one with no base gasket and a "bridge" or finger port on the intake side of the transfers...the more transfer area allows it run pick up a few R's...and in that way matches the 56's...more reliably.
I just built my first one and when I went to pressure test it was leaking at the base gasket. I had to take it back apart and apply sealer. I wish I would have watched this before I built it. I’ll let it dry over night and try again in the morning.
You have about the same tools that I use for the 54mm farmertec 660. I have a plastic bin I just throw them in. I also have a separate bin for the tools for the 029, too. I wish I could crank my ms660 as nonchalantly as you do.
I have a 661 magnum that's got 4.5 hours from new, seized piston - sthil will not honor warranty. I plan to do the change myself, thanks for the knowledge. Is the 661c different at all ?
Hello Sir, I really like your video but I have a question this post was 3 years ago so would you say that the Aftermarket parts have gotten better form Hutzl or not, Im getting ready to do a build? Thank You
Really don't know. Seems like the 660's have evolved some what but I actually think the g372xp & xt were a step backwards is some respects. I haven't had anything new from them in a year or so relative to kits or the saws I've worked on from them. Have a g372xt out with a logger for durability testing. stay tuned. hat might help with an answer. When I left the 660's they were in a form that could be worked into a useful saw. Some of the other kits weren't any where near that level. So...as I said don't really know. I wouldn't be afraid of those 660's based on what I had learned in the 2018-19 time frame though. Same deal, some parts needed to be replaced with OEM or better....so really my over all assessment has not changed.
@@afleetcommand Thank You So much and Yes I will stay tuned, You have great Instructional videos I cant thank you enough for all the time and effort you put into this. Have a Great Evening!
I keep all of my working tools for chainsaws in a plastic box. This keep me from having to walk to the shop and dig through my roll away for a specific tool. I keep my tubes of sealants on my office desk. If I left them in my non air conditioned shop my tube of 1184 or Dirko would be as hard as a brick in short order. I just cap them and keep them on my desk that seldom gets over 75 degrees.
Thanks Re the "new 56mm's not being the same", I was gonna make at least 1 of my units a big-bore (why not?) so am infinitely glad to have caught this so I don't waste my time! LOL Re the intake-edge, the 54m Hyway nikasil I just got must've used the same casting as it's got a terribly uneven (and chamfer'd) intake port-edge (inside-edge obviously), the 54m farmertec cylinder is actually a lot nicer *casting* but it's plating is certainly inferior to the Hyway kit (*especially* on the piston, the Hyway kit's piston is the biggest difference, notably nicer casting than the Farmertec, FWIW I have the pop-up & am surprised its pop-up is so short!) You speak of reliability (like anyone discussing this topic!), and phrase it like so many including myself "would you 'go into the woods with it?'", I do not think this is the right threshold/benchmark, because I wouldn't go into the woods with ANY *single* saw!! I mean, I do residential so of course my thresholds/needs are less-significant than someone who went out into the woods (and cannot just drive to a store or their workbench mid-job!), but even in my case I'd never setup to climb w/o >1 tophandle, nor would I fell a tree w/o >1 60cc+ powersaw! SO...to 660's...I was given a built, kit-660 (of the variety you have here), while it did hang a ring (builder's bevel seems to be the culprit) in
That's old data but nothing I have seen recently either makes me think it's bad data :) 54's have done the best for me, and the ones I built in that time frame are still going.
I have a really strange situation.. My MS660 I built from a kit will not start. It kicks back and spits out the exhaust asked. II went from a high top piston to a flat top piston chained cylinder's changed 3 different ignitions it's ignitions and a new flywheel and it's still keeps doing the same thing. I really have no idea what to try next any ideas?
@@afleetcommand I replaced the flywheel of the crankshaft the piston the cylinder and the Ignition module. You can feel it hitting too soon and trying to kick backwards.
Yup so the thing can't drop down. But why? The OEM Husqvarna or Stihl decomps are really cheap, and time is money. Bet it costs less than the time spend doing a weld if your time is worth anything..:)
Excellent video once again I really enjoy all of them,one thing in my opinion,you don't have OCD I would say more SST Superbly Skilful Technician,wonderful.Thank you so much.
Hi , I spent 8 hours trying to put the cylinder on and had to give up . I rebuild Porsche engines but never have I seen a problem that I had to give up for the day . The little plastic ring compressors are total garbage . I am rebuilding a real MS660 (POS) compared to a original Stihl 66 magnum . I was using a cheap Chinese cylinder and piston and I believe the rings are too big ... any ideas
I found out ,(at the local Stihl dealership ) that there is a correct way to put the rings on . If they are upside down you will not be able to install the cylinder. I had no idea by anything I watched on You Tube that this was an issue. There is a Top and Bottom to the rings; there is no directions or markings that comes with the cheap aftermarket pistons. All I can say is if you cannot seat the cylinder if one or both rings are upside down. I hope this helps save your vocal cords and beer bill!!
John Church the ring should be fitted to cylinder before put in piston, check ring gap, then look at end s, you should see how they fit against pins in piston. Also test clyinder on piston, to make sure there is enough squish hight. So piston doesn't hit top
Also, do you have a list of prats that should be replaced from the current 660 kit? I just bought one, not here yet, so I wanna gather all the parts before hand. Thanks again!
ok, i'll have to watch them again, should have taken notes! It might be a good video in the future to go through a new kit and show what parts to replace...someone may have done it, but I watched so many videos, i can't remember, haha.
Hey Walt been enjoying your videos for over a year fine informative stuff wish I could put together a couple of 660s undr your tootalage tried contacting you early on with no success not giving up till I succeed hope you keep going we love your stuf .ill be back ttyl Cliff
Heat-shielding-- BLEW my mind, too! Also that most of the muffs (including OEM's) are just "open can" style, not making use of scavenging or backpressure nearly at all....BOTH of my builds are certainly getting heat-shielding, both at muff//cylinder and muff//bottom-end, hoping I can work 1 piece of alloy for the entire shield! Oh and decomp valves.... For my project(s) here I have both the valves, and the plugs to delete the decomp-holes if I choose.... I'm split-as-hell!! Do you know whether it's normal for there to be a non-zero compression/seal loss from using a GOOD decomp valve? IE kinda like how 1-ringed pistons *work*, but 2 are better...am worrying decomp valves may be "oh sure it costs you 2-5psi on average, during the most critical part of the stroke, but it eases startup!" more than of the piece falling in lol (because then I have an excuse for a new top-end build lol, although I don't know how lucky I was that my bottom-end made it out unscathed when my cylinder was working with piston-chips in there!!) With how poor the starters are on these I'm really of 2 minds on decomp's, I do have an OEM starer/recoil assembly on 1 of the units, and a diesel 4mm elast-clone rope&handle en route, I think I DO want to see the f.tec unit break on me just so I 'have the feel' before installing the better stuff, so far as I can tell there's 0 ways that I can damage other components via starter-failure! So glad you did such thorough, well-visible content, I am about to dig-in here at my place and not having my ring-compressor yet, would've forgotten all about McGuyver'ing something to use in the meanwhile!! Thanks again it's so cool you've done all this, I hope you made more-than you'd expected on your commercial endeavors man!!!
And this freeporting crap, it's the 1st time I had reason not to regret getting 54mm, instead of 56mm, F.Tec top-end kit! Sad still, would've really liked to have gotten into the big bores (for both of mine, I mean IF they don't have issues then a ~10% boost in displacement w/o a weight-gain to the powerhead? Yes please!!!)
I never tried on a 650, but these folks think it will work,,:) www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cross-Performance-Cylinder-kit-for-Stihl-MS660-066-MS650-for-1122-020-1211/323827163769?hash=item4b659a6279:g:cjsAAOSwEYJc-P93
Of the options I would pick this one...and they seem to list the 650 as well www.ebay.com/itm/Hyway-Cylinder-Kit-Pop-Up-54mm-for-Stihl-MS660-MS650-066/143343193980?hash=item215feb8f7c:g:rUsAAOSw7fVdQRXc
What I do know is ONE of the smaller cousins of the 660 has some case differences but that might be the 064. I'm not a Stihl person so don't have the specifics so really not the best person to ask. I'm pretty familiar with the 660's though and the Kit 660's as well. Just never worked on the 650's
Tell that to the folks with old Homelites from the 1960's with chrome over aluminum .....but still run fine today..:) My 925 has a gazillion hours on it. My McCulloch's with liners have all failed, but not because of their cylinders, but carburetor & ignitions weren't as well thought out as the Homie's
No, it still lives. And is a strong saw by any measure. The first top end it had was junk , had to dig an earlier version out. Haven't looked at the later ones in a couple of years. Only "Carcosa" was the Cross stuff. And this was here in the good old US of A with all saw parts from China, nothing from France ..:)
I can't believe you don't have more subs. Your channel is a gold mine of great info. Thank you!
SO glad to have found your channel (after >6mo of just devouring all the basics on carbs/saws (ttheory stuff) as well as Steve's Saloon and DonyBoy's stuff) and it seems one of the best "bridges" for someone like me who routinely grabs curb-side gear and gets it operational (for my arsenal or give/sell away, just love saving a 2-stroke from the trash ;D ), someone who's got a great feel for why chainsaws fail & how to fix them, & how to tune them as optimal-as-possible for any given situation/geography.....but in "rebuild+modify"ing my 1977 poulan 25d, or even my Tanaka TCS33edtp that's now fixed (was 'totalled' according to the jerk who sold it or rather gave it to me in-lieu of $25 payment for a tree job I'd helped with....considering he still owes me, & that I'd always liked this Tanaka/Hitachi model, am now considering myself to be broken-even on his non-payment ;D ) Am getting quite confident in diagnosing&fixing but, short of opening-up the air-intakes (allowing more, cleaner air than OEM on most of my 2 strokes) and maybe opening mufflers a lil, I'm ignorant of how to proceed so going to just do baby-steps (can remove more, can't add it back!!) adn post pics to see if I'm on the right track!!
Went to Ace, expecting they'd have Stihl Motomix, they did have Husqvarna's but it bugs me they use a semi- (not full-) synthetic oil at any rate Steve('s Saloon) has a great vid on fuel and while I'm sure any pre-mix is superior to thtte best I can muster mixing eth-free blends @home, the Stihl Motomix is just tops I mean it's like the 'jet fuel' for chainsaws not just clean but way higher% of the good parts of petrol and low/no bad parts, just refined/high-end fuel prepped for 2-strroke usage (and Stihl's 2-stroke oil is a full synthetic, was surprised Husq had blendned as their Poulan Pro subsidiary has full-synthetic 2-stroke-oil (thatt's what I use, love the 1-gal-pre-measured lil bottles!) Did like the Husq pre-mix was 95 oct., am uncertain how Stabil plays-into this (and if it's worth using *any* for me, as I make a fresh gallon of 2-stroke at least 1x/wk and always pour-out the old when doing so (and load-up on just great, fresh boat fuel / eth free w/ 45:1 synthetic & some "ISO HEET" added (this is for mostt engines here in humid FL!!) Really wanna find 'fuel bags' so I can eliminate air inside my containers to stop evap., fuel is so damn fussy I can't wait til I can get a 60-80V lipo setup that can handle 3/4+ of an average day :D
I find it fascinating that the larger Stihl aftermarket parts are so much more less expensive than smaller models, in some cases almost half the cost. I've considered getting a bigger Stihl just to play with in the wood pile but I'm at my weight limit with an 046. A few hours of flinging a 75cc saw near kills me. Maybe that's why the parts are so low cost for the big dogs?
Agree......and why "Ultimate Old Man Saw" was built..:)
I checked the base gasket and it looks nice. The streaks I saw were probably from the gas I put down its snout to help get it going. I finally have it rolling over but have not got it to run, yet. Probably those junky controls. The new Stihl control parts should be in this week. Preferably sooner because my arm is getting tired and my patience even more.
I put 1184 on my ms660 build, too. On the case, on both sides of the gasket and on the cylinder flange. I have not seen any leaks, yet. Call it overkill if you want but I hate bottom end leaks. I also put a little 1184 on the intake boot flange, too, just like you. I wish I could 1184 the master control lever to make it work, properly. However, I did oil them with wd40 and they seem to work a little better. I am still going to replace them and the junk in the handle.
Doubt its the base gasket then, but usually it would strat even if there was a leaky base gasket anyway
Pretty new to two stroke problems. I inherited a 660 when I moved back to the family farm. Got it up and running and after about 5 min of running the saw it died and I can’t get it restarted. I’m going to order a compression gauge kit and see what it looks like but would you have any recommendations of what else I should be looking at?
great vid and very useful to me ahead of my ms361 Farmertec big bore cylinder swap. What do mean though by the freeport issue with later pot/pistons ?
At top dead center the piston skirt allows the exhaust port to be open a little bit.
Do you ever have any old kit 660s laying around ? I work at a stihl dealer and we see a decent amount of these saws running around and I’d love to get my hands on one that’s had a good amount of time on it and examine the construction after commercial use
no
Do you think the 660 is worth buying
I guess as I said years back, it depends on your expectation level. If you expect OEM level of quality & stability out of the box, u will be frustrated. If you are looking to lean saw mechanic's, tweak and modify into a work ready machine, about the best place to start. I would prolly go with the g395 first given the choices now, but I had a LOT of fun, cut a LOTs of wood and learned a lot from that 660 kit saw experience. Actually taking a used OEM 660 and bringing it back is on my bucket list. And as always I show real time my true feelings... If a saw lasts on the channel there is a reason, if it's a two video then out... :)
Hi ! I'm trying to remove a 262xp cylinder that I have put together with the paper gasket and loctite 515 as a sealant. Now it is glued togeter real tight. Any advise on how to break it apart without breaking anyting?
The gasket should split....so pull harder? Don't pry on fins thought. I use a rubber mallet at times to bump the cylinder to break the seal.
afleetcommand hello great video !was wondering if there is any info on porting a husky 262 I want to do this but can't find out how anyhelp would be great!!
Hey , I was wondering if the big bore kit is still running ok? did it feel more powerful than the 54mm cylinder? just curious if its worth the upgrade. I do port saws (no machine work yet, but alter intake exh and transfers)and build kits so I have no issues grinding to adjust timing or clean up the flash and bevels around ports etc. what are your thoughts?
It is and I actually just sent it down the road thru an auction. Needed space for more projects saws. It ran fine even with the "free port" it had :) . I prolly would stick with a 54mm as the last of those I still have is the "Farmer Jones" build with a 54mm and a finger port. It's still making chips. I lent it out to my SIL to clear land with. That entire 660 kit saw turned out pretty well when selective OEM parts were added to the brew.
Hello Walt another great video Thanks for that!!! I have a question about your Sugihara and Total Bar's do you get those from Bob? or perhaps another source any insight would be greatly appreciated....Stay Safe and have FUN!!!
Yes Bob has the Sugi's.. the best option BTW
afleetcommand Thanks for your timely response, I will give Bob a call Monday. I need a couple new bar's just have to decide between a 28"or a 32" for my 7900, I am getting to old to bend over while limbing! My 32" from my 288 works great but I think a 28" would also fit the bill while saving a couple bucks on the bill....
Nice work!
Thank You :)
Here's my 064 with a new style Farmertec 56mm top end.. I basically did what you did, cleaned up the ports and chamfers a little, I didn't use the base gasket.. I noticed these cylinders have a very wide squish band with a small chamber... I've run a couple tanks through it and it's doing well.. 210 psi compression. I just installed a decomp on it because this was just too much
ruclips.net/video/KGqaitWLAFw/видео.html
I love my 66 n 44 I use them alot n only replaced air filter spark plug n sprocket since new my friends rave about huskeys but I've replaced more parts on there saws for them for saws 2 n 4 years old then my 21 year old stihl I would love to up grade to new 662 or mybe huskey but every tree guy I get my wood for both have problems with the new electronic on carbs parts it seems
Husqvarna went through the pains of those CARB complaint saws back 2010-2012. Stihl is going through it now. Husqvarna is out the other side for the most part. Stihl will be just a matter of time. Of the Husqvarna's with the "new" Autotunes, the 576 came out the best.
It may make a cylinder swap easier by sliding the intake off the cylinder side. There is less crumpleing of the intake and removing the carb wouldnt be necessary. I use a slot screw driver with some electrical tap so I dont puncture the intake if I slip. Just pry under and the top and it will clear just fine,
True..of course I screwed that up by effectively gluing the thing on! Was very hard to remove the boot even after the cylinder was off.
I use transmission assembly lube inside the intake. Its not grease and has no corrosive properties and creates a seal, doesnt dry and makes removal easy. I even experimented with it to seal the carb without the ring and expander washer. It worked till I could get the parts.
Another good one, thanks!
I just got two 56 mm farm etc I think they are the ones you said you can't get. maybe you already know about him but I get all my aftermarket stuff from Ryan at Wolfcreeksaw in Colorado he's great to deal with
With that squared off base??? And the really clean looking bore? If they are, you WILL be happy with them..:)
Lots of Happy Customers, Thanks for Shopping Walt Mart ;-)👌 :-)👍 :-)👍
why did you retire the other 660?
To make room for these new projects....It proved itself a success in the woods. SO I can only run a few saws...I move the "successful" builds to the retirement home, and the unsuccessful builds get broken down and the good parts end up in another saw, the bad...in the trash. That first is one of my all time best and all time favorite saws.
afleetcommand I would think that the retierment home must be getting filled up then.lol
It is....I did a short video but didn't post it. Too corny
Like that song....because of you! I'll post that goofy video..:)
terrific videos. I just bought 2 more of these aftermarket 660s. I am going to play with the 54 mm cylinders and keep out the base gasket and probably going to have to make a pop-up. just to see what happens. I do have 2, 56 MMS . have you tried it already? must say again terrific videos for people like me thanks
I've swapped a few top ends, the 54's are the most consistent. Have one with no base gasket and a "bridge" or finger port on the intake side of the transfers...the more transfer area allows it run pick up a few R's...and in that way matches the 56's...more reliably.
Great information! Watching you work on the saw shows me how to work on OEM ones too.
would Farmer Jones Be able to put ah tac weld on those holzfarma de-comp and get away with it not falling in the engine?
Maybe, used Husqvarna decomps from the 562's I build work well 4 me
I just built my first one and when I went to pressure test it was leaking at the base gasket. I had to take it back apart and apply sealer. I wish I would have watched this before I built it. I’ll let it dry over night and try again in the morning.
You have about the same tools that I use for the 54mm farmertec 660. I have a plastic bin I just throw them in. I also have a separate bin for the tools for the 029, too. I wish I could crank my ms660 as nonchalantly as you do.
Consider it therapy....after a while pure anger and frustration will rehab all that ails u ...:) And that's before you get to the poor tree's!
great video and awesome info..I wish all the saws I have stripped were so clean.. thank you
I have a 661 magnum that's got 4.5 hours from new, seized piston - sthil will not honor warranty. I plan to do the change myself, thanks for the knowledge. Is the 661c different at all ?
Completely different...but has familiar "Stihl" lay out so if your mechanically inclined, you can figure it out.
Thanks mate
Why wouldn't they honour warranty? Ive bought to 661s.
They almost never will honor warranty on the top end. They automatically assume u cold seized it or straight gassed it.
Bottom Line What is the best aftermarket combo For the MS660 I Just ordered a Stihl ms660 kit and a 372xp Kit
The kit with a Cross Performance top end. A few tweaks to OEM parts subbed in for the AM parts that are a bit off. Makes for a solid saw.
Hello Sir, I really like your video but I have a question this post was 3 years ago so would you say that the Aftermarket parts have gotten better form Hutzl or not, Im getting ready to do a build? Thank You
Really don't know. Seems like the 660's have evolved some what but I actually think the g372xp & xt were a step backwards is some respects. I haven't had anything new from them in a year or so relative to kits or the saws I've worked on from them. Have a g372xt out with a logger for durability testing. stay tuned. hat might help with an answer. When I left the 660's they were in a form that could be worked into a useful saw. Some of the other kits weren't any where near that level. So...as I said don't really know. I wouldn't be afraid of those 660's based on what I had learned in the 2018-19 time frame though. Same deal, some parts needed to be replaced with OEM or better....so really my over all assessment has not changed.
@@afleetcommand Thank You So much and Yes I will stay tuned, You have great Instructional videos I cant thank you enough for all the time and effort you put into this. Have a Great Evening!
I keep all of my working tools for chainsaws in a plastic box. This keep me from having to walk to the shop and dig through my roll away for a specific tool. I keep my tubes of sealants on my office desk. If I left them in my non air conditioned shop my tube of 1184 or Dirko would be as hard as a brick in short order. I just cap them and keep them on my desk that seldom gets over 75 degrees.
Thanks Re the "new 56mm's not being the same", I was gonna make at least 1 of my units a big-bore (why not?) so am infinitely glad to have caught this so I don't waste my time!
LOL Re the intake-edge, the 54m Hyway nikasil I just got must've used the same casting as it's got a terribly uneven (and chamfer'd) intake port-edge (inside-edge obviously), the 54m farmertec cylinder is actually a lot nicer *casting* but it's plating is certainly inferior to the Hyway kit (*especially* on the piston, the Hyway kit's piston is the biggest difference, notably nicer casting than the Farmertec, FWIW I have the pop-up & am surprised its pop-up is so short!)
You speak of reliability (like anyone discussing this topic!), and phrase it like so many including myself "would you 'go into the woods with it?'", I do not think this is the right threshold/benchmark, because I wouldn't go into the woods with ANY *single* saw!! I mean, I do residential so of course my thresholds/needs are less-significant than someone who went out into the woods (and cannot just drive to a store or their workbench mid-job!), but even in my case I'd never setup to climb w/o >1 tophandle, nor would I fell a tree w/o >1 60cc+ powersaw! SO...to 660's...I was given a built, kit-660 (of the variety you have here), while it did hang a ring (builder's bevel seems to be the culprit) in
That's old data but nothing I have seen recently either makes me think it's bad data :) 54's have done the best for me, and the ones I built in that time frame are still going.
I have a really strange situation.. My MS660 I built from a kit will not start. It kicks back and spits out the exhaust asked. II went from a high top piston to a flat top piston chained cylinder's changed 3 different ignitions it's ignitions and a new flywheel and it's still keeps doing the same thing. I really have no idea what to try next any ideas?
Either you have to pull harder or the crank has spun to where the flywheel key is out of time. Assuming the flywheel isn't indexed wrong.
@@afleetcommand I replaced the flywheel of the crankshaft the piston the cylinder and the Ignition module. You can feel it hitting too soon and trying to kick backwards.
With those famertec decompression valves would welding a little top on them fix the issue of the pin falling in? Thanks
Yup so the thing can't drop down. But why? The OEM Husqvarna or Stihl decomps are really cheap, and time is money. Bet it costs less than the time spend doing a weld if your time is worth anything..:)
Excellent video once again I really enjoy all of them,one thing in my opinion,you don't have OCD I would say more SST Superbly Skilful Technician,wonderful.Thank you so much.
Hi , I spent 8 hours trying to put the cylinder on and had to give up . I rebuild Porsche engines but never have I seen a problem that I had to give up for the day . The little plastic ring compressors are total garbage . I am rebuilding a real MS660 (POS) compared to a original Stihl 66 magnum . I was using a cheap Chinese cylinder and piston and I believe the rings are too big ... any ideas
I found out ,(at the local Stihl dealership ) that there is a correct way to put the rings on . If they are upside down you will not be able to install the cylinder. I had no idea by anything I watched on You Tube that this was an issue. There is a Top and Bottom to the rings; there is no directions or markings that comes with the cheap aftermarket pistons. All I can say is if you cannot seat the cylinder if one or both rings are upside down. I hope this helps save your vocal cords and beer bill!!
John Church the ring should be fitted to cylinder before put in piston, check ring gap, then look at end s, you should see how they fit against pins in piston. Also test clyinder on piston, to make sure there is enough squish hight. So piston doesn't hit top
Also, do you have a list of prats that should be replaced from the current 660 kit? I just bought one, not here yet, so I wanna gather all the parts before hand. Thanks again!
Nothing formal, just what I have articulated in the video's.
ok, i'll have to watch them again, should have taken notes! It might be a good video in the future to go through a new kit and show what parts to replace...someone may have done it, but I watched so many videos, i can't remember, haha.
Hey Walt been enjoying your videos for over a year fine informative stuff wish I could put together a couple of 660s undr your tootalage tried contacting you early on with no success not giving up till I succeed hope you keep going we love your stuf .ill be back ttyl Cliff
Heat-shielding-- BLEW my mind, too! Also that most of the muffs (including OEM's) are just "open can" style, not making use of scavenging or backpressure nearly at all....BOTH of my builds are certainly getting heat-shielding, both at muff//cylinder and muff//bottom-end, hoping I can work 1 piece of alloy for the entire shield!
Oh and decomp valves.... For my project(s) here I have both the valves, and the plugs to delete the decomp-holes if I choose.... I'm split-as-hell!! Do you know whether it's normal for there to be a non-zero compression/seal loss from using a GOOD decomp valve? IE kinda like how 1-ringed pistons *work*, but 2 are better...am worrying decomp valves may be "oh sure it costs you 2-5psi on average, during the most critical part of the stroke, but it eases startup!" more than of the piece falling in lol (because then I have an excuse for a new top-end build lol, although I don't know how lucky I was that my bottom-end made it out unscathed when my cylinder was working with piston-chips in there!!)
With how poor the starters are on these I'm really of 2 minds on decomp's, I do have an OEM starer/recoil assembly on 1 of the units, and a diesel 4mm elast-clone rope&handle en route, I think I DO want to see the f.tec unit break on me just so I 'have the feel' before installing the better stuff, so far as I can tell there's 0 ways that I can damage other components via starter-failure!
So glad you did such thorough, well-visible content, I am about to dig-in here at my place and not having my ring-compressor yet, would've forgotten all about McGuyver'ing something to use in the meanwhile!! Thanks again it's so cool you've done all this, I hope you made more-than you'd expected on your commercial endeavors man!!!
And this freeporting crap, it's the 1st time I had reason not to regret getting 54mm, instead of 56mm, F.Tec top-end kit! Sad still, would've really liked to have gotten into the big bores (for both of mine, I mean IF they don't have issues then a ~10% boost in displacement w/o a weight-gain to the powerhead? Yes please!!!)
On the Cylinder gaskek which side goes up ;the raised side or the recessed side ? Thanks for all your help!
Advice number one has just happened to me regarding the pressure release and it was catastrophic.
Sorry to hear that...:(
Buddy can you make me a crank puller tool for the ms660 please
HI, enjoying your videos! Can you post a link of the 56 kit? I see several available, wanna make sure I get the right one. Thx
also, what do you break the corner on the ports with? A dremmel or die grinder? what size / type of stone? thx
One more - what is the rpm tool?
How do you remove the rubber plate on the right side that you adjust the carb with ,you did not show it and I am a beginner > Thanks for any help.
Just yanked it out, brute force.
:)
I hope you get good beer money with your videos! Really good information and questioning mindset 👌
What exactly is the 1187 that you use to seal gaskets
Three Bond 1184
Oh and I've GOTTA look into this company, am hoping they make top-handle clones it'd be fun to do a ground-up on a 200/201t!!!
What size tube do you weld in for your muffler mod?
7/8 od, 1inch would work if u can't find 7/8 on THAT build
Do you think this kit will bolt onto a ms650? Or a 54mm bore if the piston is right?
I never tried on a 650, but these folks think it will work,,:) www.ebay.com/itm/New-Cross-Performance-Cylinder-kit-for-Stihl-MS660-066-MS650-for-1122-020-1211/323827163769?hash=item4b659a6279:g:cjsAAOSwEYJc-P93
Of the options I would pick this one...and they seem to list the 650 as well www.ebay.com/itm/Hyway-Cylinder-Kit-Pop-Up-54mm-for-Stihl-MS660-MS650-066/143343193980?hash=item215feb8f7c:g:rUsAAOSw7fVdQRXc
What I do know is ONE of the smaller cousins of the 660 has some case differences but that might be the 064. I'm not a Stihl person so don't have the specifics so really not the best person to ask. I'm pretty familiar with the 660's though and the Kit 660's as well. Just never worked on the 650's
afleetcommand I got the Hayward kit. Got the saw for free blown up and hopefully that's all it needs.
afleetcommand hyway*
Any added vibrations due to the slightly heavier piston?
How's this held up
Still use it, this was done last summer in 2020 ruclips.net/video/VVREuIVTfss/видео.html
@@afleetcommand I'm gona be doing a 56mm kit soon is there any modifications I need to do to the case or does it fit in nice
No should bolt right on.
on an OEM 026 do you have to take cylinder off to replace intake boot? thank you so much ricvh
Negative
Have you tried the hutzl full wrap handle?
ruclips.net/video/4G7CmlIQy1c/видео.html
Where do u get that aftermarket air cleaning setup
stores.ebay.com/Chainsaw-Conservation-Components?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
Who makes the 1184? Thanks
The company is a Japanese outfit named "Three Bond". A company that grew up along side the Automotive and Motorcycle industry over there.
Ain't that the truth, but my ailments have more to do with Aren't Orange than psychological.
Whr do u get the filter adapter
Definitive Dave's place. He has an eBay store
chainsawcc.com/
Thank you sir,tht was a quick response
Great video
Thanks!
Cool. Nice
any cylinders need steel in sleeves
Tell that to the folks with old Homelites from the 1960's with chrome over aluminum .....but still run fine today..:) My 925 has a gazillion hours on it. My McCulloch's with liners have all failed, but not because of their cylinders, but carburetor & ignitions weren't as well thought out as the Homie's
Carcosa...
No, it still lives. And is a strong saw by any measure. The first top end it had was junk , had to dig an earlier version out. Haven't looked at the later ones in a couple of years. Only "Carcosa" was the Cross stuff. And this was here in the good old US of A with all saw parts from China, nothing from France ..:)