I agree about the side to side play but I have tried a couple ways to take the play out by using aluminum and by using steel (mild) and both got beat up bad. Now they sell inserts made out of aluminum but hey have receses in them that work well but I’m sayin this case your saying wider bushings but if you don’t have the the same size as the end of the connecting rod that the wrist pin (what you called the rod) goes through most likely the bushings will just get beat up and pushed them the motor n cause damage like in both mine till I learned the size they have to be. If you need more info on what I’m saying exactly hit me up on messenger n I’ll try to explain better. If not no biggie just want to help you learn from my mistakes. Thanks for posting I’m looking forward to the build brother.
@@mozezcen-valley7555 ok well I know you have done a bunch with these bikes n motors so I’m sure you know what your doing but I just wanted to let you know what I’ve found out the hard way just in case you haven’t. Well I’m stoked to see this all getting done and I’m excited to see how it sounds the most I think, cause 60mm is a big boy.
@@JMB676 me too never did a saw but I done some poor boy bike builds in the pass motors parts etc made engine that scard cylinders still fast ⏩⏩ just wants a RUclips guy at time but thanks bro wen ever message me u seen me on ur Facebook page bro 👍
Also when running rdm aftermarket crankshaft do you run into any issues that have to be worked around versus running a stock style crank other than ordering it with a 12mm pin sizing. Thanks for your time
If it's a 13mm pin for the piston and 12mm for the rod just purchase the bearing that fits....I just did the same myself it's a super slim needle bearing made for a moped. If you need the numbers on the bearing let me know Now if it's a 14mm or 15mm pin for the piston your in trouble lol and I would switch to one of the other saw 60mm pistons that I have and it has a 13mm pin almost the same design very close.
I agree about the side to side play but I have tried a couple ways to take the play out by using aluminum and by using steel (mild) and both got beat up bad. Now they sell inserts made out of aluminum but hey have receses in them that work well but I’m sayin this case your saying wider bushings but if you don’t have the the same size as the end of the connecting rod that the wrist pin (what you called the rod) goes through most likely the bushings will just get beat up and pushed them the motor n cause damage like in both mine till I learned the size they have to be. If you need more info on what I’m saying exactly hit me up on messenger n I’ll try to explain better. If not no biggie just want to help you learn from my mistakes. Thanks for posting I’m looking forward to the build brother.
Yeah I done it in the past never had an issue. You just have to make sure you have your spacing in size exactly two original specs to get it perfect
@@mozezcen-valley7555 ok well I know you have done a bunch with these bikes n motors so I’m sure you know what your doing but I just wanted to let you know what I’ve found out the hard way just in case you haven’t. Well I’m stoked to see this all getting done and I’m excited to see how it sounds the most I think, cause 60mm is a big boy.
@@JMB676 me too never did a saw but I done some poor boy bike builds in the pass motors parts etc made engine that scard cylinders still fast ⏩⏩ just wants a RUclips guy at time but thanks bro wen ever message me u seen me on ur Facebook page bro 👍
Looking good you sure you don't have any Texan in you cause we like doing it big to lol ride safe brother
Big Pimpin 👽👍🚲💥💨💨💨
Hahaha
@@mozezcen-valley7555 yep take it out, better to be safe, I always looking at pistons an take away sharp edges an any unwanted 👽👍
If u can make extra set for uhh me, I'll pay for your time, ggz- I wana run bearing 👽👍🚲💥💨💨💨
Also when running rdm aftermarket crankshaft do you run into any issues that have to be worked around versus running a stock style crank other than ordering it with a 12mm pin sizing. Thanks for your time
If it's a 13mm pin for the piston and 12mm for the rod just purchase the bearing that fits....I just did the same myself it's a super slim needle bearing made for a moped. If you need the numbers on the bearing let me know Now if it's a 14mm or 15mm pin for the piston your in trouble lol and I would switch to one of the other saw 60mm pistons that I have and it has a 13mm pin almost the same design very close.
Yeah I got link
Say what? Hmmm, great attempt on a non wet sump to almost work as a wet sump. Parts out later on this week.
THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT !! that thing is gonna rip
Yeah hope it dips