Dude, I can not express how thankful I am for you and this channel. I have carried pocket knives for my entire life, but just got "into" knives within the last few years. After spending the last two hours fighting this S30V just for it to barely cut paper, I watched this video and finally got what I was missing; made the bevel even all the way down the blade, formed a burr, got it off, stropped and now the weight of the blade will shave like a safety razor. You are the man, Jerad!
Now I understand what I have been doing wrong sharpening my knives, thank you so much for the info brother it was definitely definitely helpful for me!!!!!
This was the video that finally got me to a sharp edge! Before this one, I didn't know how to get and then remove a burr so I just made my knives duller lol.
Jared, I see more comments like this and I could just like them but I’ve to express my gratitude as well.😊 Today I received my field sharpener and I’m sharpening my second knife atm. I colored the bevel with a sharpie and after 65 strokes on the first side the sharpie is gone and I created a notable burr. I just repeated this process on the other side and I’m so proud of myself already and so stoked that after watching tons of videos these last months, which a lot of your channel, I finally get to do it myself and it’s actually working. I had to watch a video of the burr again before I go to the finer stone. That stroke to knock the burr in the middle before you continue to the next stone. I never do this but I actually became a member of you earlier! You will probably see me in more comments in the future! Thanks so far Jared and Kara ❤ greetings from the Netherlands (I’m going through a rough depression and this amazing knife community has probably literally saved my life the lasts couple of months)
Thank you so much for this video. Very helpful. I really appreciate it. I didn’t realize that you want a burr on each stone. I’ve also been looking for a resource that explains how to remove a burr! Good to know that you are moving it side to side until it fatigues.
Yes definitely, depending on the ht depends on how fast it will break off?and whether it comes off all at once, but getting a small burr on all the stones is very important to getting a very sharp edge
Hi, no. Outdoors55 channel is superb; he demo'd this using a high power microscope, and there is absolutely no difference forwards or back. When you are working on the blade curve you ought to be going ALONG the edge, otherwise you'll ruin the curvature. If you watch this video again you'll see what I mean; I always go forwards square to the stone until I reach the curve, then I slide the blade around to catch the curved portion, just like in this video. Good luck with it, if you follow this video you'll get shaving sharp every time, it's very satisfying.
Great video! Just got my Civivi Elementum and I’ve been looking for a sharpening video for Civivi Elementum in D2. Thank’s Neeve’s ... probably the best explanation of the sharpening process I’ve seen. Those diagrams were on point! I just hit that bell... I usually don’t hit that for subscriptions but the way you explain things makes it easy for a beginner like myself. I just got a Sharpal 300/1200 diamond stone, while not a DMT I think it will work once I break it in. You and that Rooster guy are my absolute favorite for sharpening videos. I could watch these all day it’s kind of relaxing... I know it sounds weird but it is what it is. Thank you again, this showed me exactly what I was doing wrong. My man 👊
Awesome Greg Im always trying to put sharpening videos out with a lot of great info, I just posted a full sharpening yesterday on Maxamet and the video i posted today has a full sharpening at the end of the video, not the best for information but has good visuals
@@NeevesKnives thank you 🙏 I have the standard ceramic stone lansky and I get one hell of an edge CONSISTENTLY but my issue was always deburring. I never did try a 3-2-1 step though. Thanks again sir. Side note- do you prefer the work sharp to the lansky or vice verse?
@@Befuddledzebra_6 go watch either some of my shorts or one of my most recent sharpening videos, ive been recently explaining burrs much better with an even better way to remove, do edge trailing passes on each side as soft and light pressure as possible, taking that gentle approach is key
@@Befuddledzebra_6 here check this video out and pay attention to when i get to burr removal its at min 14:12 the whole video is good though ruclips.net/video/R1Oid_YSqcI/видео.htmlsi=f1M5cByEIfPmf8wi
I’ve gotta say man, your attentiveness to my simpletons question has definitely earned a subscribe and a spot in my top 5 RUclipsrs. Thanks again man, I will definitely be watching that video along with several others 🙏
If you were going to go up in grit after this stone, would you be creating a burr on the higher grit (second stone) also? Or is it more polishing? If creating a new burr, why not just start with the higher grit stone?
I hope this helps, the hrc really effects the way a knife de burrs, lower the hrc the more it folds back and forth, the easier it is to remove usually the higher
amzn.to/3dqERPu amzn.to/3LxpwZJ These are the plates I mostly recommend for beginners, and morass are great and I do recommend them but not as far as learning how to sharpen
@NeevesKnives haha, more powah. Yesterday I DIYed handsanding my mother-in-law kitchen knife. It got better but not to the level I would call it good enough. When I was looking for a tutorial. There are many good videos that use power tools. But I'm not at the level that I want to invest into power tool yet. Handsanding an old knife back to life is a very satisfying experience. But seeing options from handsanding upto professional-level power tools would be an interesting topic for me too! What I have learned so far owning my first decent knife is that it's not just about sharpening but I also want to keep a good finish on it. Appreciate your response!
I got the same results with a 400 grit diamond and the other side is 600. I also got a strop with 1 micron diamond spray and also the strop comes with the green polish, I was wondering what is best to coat my strop with? .1 Micron diamond spray or the green polish the strop is coming with 🤔 I was thinking about making half and half polish and .1 micron spray.
First of all I love your videos. You are very knowledgeable and seem to have a desire to teach. So with that being said, I have a question. I often here you and others speak of a toothy edge. Is that for example, if you have a very sharp polished edge but it won’t bite into a tomato’s skin easily. Where as a less polished edge even on a less sharp knife does? If so how do you get or even know when an edge is toothy and when would you want polished vs toothy? I would appreciate you clearing this up for me. Thanks
Jared can u use a peace of 400g sandpaper then 600g sandpaper with wd40 on it then use cardboard with buffing compound n go opposite way to buff the edge seen it on another video an just wanted ur thoughts on it since know u know wat ur doing thxs
To make it easy 300, 600, 1200, grit if you want polish then you need finer grts but those are the most important, I show in many videos how to find the angle that's on your edge already, there's no right angle it really depends on what you want, 17 to 20 degrees is what I would recommend for most people, they do sell angle guides for a few dollars, but it's not hard to find a good angle with out, half way between holding your blade straight up and down is an OK angle, repeating the angle is the most important part so find an angle you can comfortably control over and over is most important for freehand.i usually make a mark in the middle of my thumb at the tip of my thumb that imo is usually a great angle or slightly higher, I f you have skinny thumbs then go a little higher, watch my step by step freehand Sharpening video
I've made major strides with freehand after several months of practicing almost daily and making tons of mistakes. Your fingertip painting method has really helped me maintain a consistent angle, especially near the tip. One error I've continued to make from time to time is when I'm not hitting the sharpie near the heel. When that happens, I try to focus several swipes just on the heel area, but by doing so, I end up creating a wide bevel up toward the belly because when focusing on the heel, I'm also unknowingly hitting the belly as well. And I'm probably unknowingly rocking the knife a little bit, thus creating a wider bevel. Just wondered if you ever saw this and if this makes sense. From now on, I'm just going to continue to make full strokes until the heel eventually works itself out.
I know exactly what your saying, you are rocking a bit, probably by putting pressure on the heel, make sure you dont let it roch side to side at all, and maintain the same pressure, until you get good at feeling yourself rocking it takes a little time to feel those subtle differences
@@NeevesKnives Yeah, I’m definitely doing it, even when trying not to. Moving forward I’m not going to freak out when heel sharpie is slow to disappear. When I concentrate on that one spot for too long is when I screw up all the great work I’ve done on the rest of the bevel.
@@MrEric0822 sometimes its just because its thicker steel, so it removes slower just keep going and it will cut in , and if you do work on the heel just make sure the rest of the blade is also hitting the stone that is able to, that is one reason why i love seeing a good choil because it makes things so much easier
man thank you ! such a good video.. I have good luck with aus8, 8crmov, vg10 but on steels like s30v, s90v, s110v I cant seem to break the damn burr off ! I love DMT stones - you dont use lubrication ? and what pressure are you using.. Thanks in advance !
I use a little pressure but not a lot esp on diamonds, certain stones more pressure than others, if your using diamond the burr should be pretty easy, try making the burr smaller, and intead of trying to break it off, work it off by doing passes on the side the burr is on until its gone or small then flip and do a 321 pass doing 3 passes on each side then 2 passes on each side do that a few times then 1 pass on each side and do that like 10 to 15 times it will work the burr off, i dont use Lubrication on my diamond stones, i do on my other stones.
No the development of a burr is the steel that builds up on apex, if you have to develop a large burr which is common, you can knock it off and develop a new one. once the scratch pattern has reached the apex and you can feel the burr you are good. You Should watch my more recent sharpening videos in the past 2 years I have in depth content with gteat editing to help understand that I didn't know how to do when I filmed this
@NeevesKnives right so basically what you're saying is that as soon as a burr is formed, you can stop sharpening that side, as making the burr any larger by continuing to make passes on the stone is a waste of time/will make removing the burr more difficult?
@zucchiniiiuwu yes, but it needs to be from heel to tip of the knifes edge. If there's very very small spots that won't seem to hit, get them on the next sharpening if needed in order to preserve steel. Another reason you want to develop a smaller burr if you had to develop a large burr is that very large burr can create micro tare out when doing your burr removal. I would say don't worry about those details atm get decent at it first but 100% go watch my sharpening playlist videos, I have videos on everything in detail, and I've learned alot that I didn't know then. even if you just type neevesknives knife sharpening you should get a bunch of vids to pop up but best is to go to my playlist
I'm wondering how and why a burr forms on a microscopic level. The burr is coming from a different location then where the metal is being removed from. Why does the burr not fall off the other side into dust or stick the stone? Is the metal becoming more compact when you press it into the stone?
The steel is rolling over to the other side, think about whittling a spear from a stick and doing the sharp point of the tip, when your shaving it eventually it will have a little flappy piece of wood at the tip
@@NeevesKnives I was thinking that it would be more like sanding wood rather then carving because your stone is gliding over the surface unlike a knife that is getting underneath a piece of wood to carve it and pull big chunks out. Also the wood only folds over because it gets flimsy but doesn't get removed from a different location on the stick. I guess my nerdy side was just getting curious. Sorry I know this is irrelevant to actually getting a knife sharp
Its definitely possible to over strop, but stropping is still good, and as long as your holding your angle and not putting a lot of pressure you wont round the edge, that comes from lifting the angle and putting to much pressure
Right on, I wasn't quite sure what a burr was. Nicely done! 👍. So I was looking for a video from you on how to fix a chip out of the blade, thinking that was a burr but completely different. I'm trying to find out how to fix a chip? Do you have to take the blade bevel down to that chip asking the whole blade? Geez. I have a S30V blade that I've been being nice to and cutting mostly fruit and I noticed little chips out of the blade cutting edge? I don't know how that happened but sucks. I'll check your videos for how you fix that if even doable? Thanks for your vids. Great job man. ✌️
Jared, I don’t know if you are a hunter, but even if you aren’t, figured you could answer. I typically stop at 600 grit (diamond) because I like a toothy edge. I was sharpening my hunting knife (to skin deer) and I was wondering if something extra toothy (stopping at 300) would be better than say a 1500 more fine edge. Which way would be better to cut through hair and meat?
So if it was for the meat then id say 1200 grt, only because you want a finer edge for food, and at 1200 it should still have a good amount of bite, but for skinning 600-800 I feel works best, under 600 can still work great, I find that really bites and slices skin really good hair can get caught in to toothy of an edge and be a little harder to get off but 600 - 800 cleans off easily.
In addition to the health probs hindering my sharpening, I am thinking my patience is fkn me too. never been one for having them but when I was working on something (carrier)
@@NeevesKnives eh, maybe for heavy work or profile or something I just don't picture that thing doing anything I want in the shop, but you know I will watch and see you change my mind or not. Plus it strikes me as a glorified power file had a bastard with a mini grind/Polishing machine.
I dont know what i am doing wrong… When i sharpen, my knifes are easly shaving sharp but i cant get them to be hair whittling sharp… When i look with a light at the edge, i alway have a microburr that i cant get rid of… Finishing stone is Venev 5000grit and 1micron leather strop…
I think i did a chisel grind video, but if not sharpen like you would normally on one side create the burr, and knock it off with a ceramic rod or with the stone your using, do that with every stone until your finishing stone, then stropp the side with the bevel, and lightly on the other side, when your knocking your burr off just lightly rub it on the stone at a higher angle just enough for the burr to snag off
Nothing really if your happy with 300 grit, cut tests will show you get better edge retention with a higher grit, not necessarily a mirror but a finer grit edge can give you a longer lasting edge, but depending on what your using your knife on and what you want depends on the finish and the angle you want your edge at
Yep, I removed the burr. And, as is the case every God damn time I attempt to free hand sharpen, the knife is now blunter than it was before. Yeah, the way to get my knives sharper is to pay someone who can actually do it
u r job offer in BundesMacht Corp. will be emailed to u plz accept u will be the SWORD Sharpener of the Samuri which is great honour only the few steels maker can have
Dude, I can not express how thankful I am for you and this channel.
I have carried pocket knives for my entire life, but just got "into" knives within the last few years. After spending the last two hours fighting this S30V just for it to barely cut paper, I watched this video and finally got what I was missing; made the bevel even all the way down the blade, formed a burr, got it off, stropped and now the weight of the blade will shave like a safety razor.
You are the man, Jerad!
👊
Holy crap, you just clarified so many things, and I'm not even done watching. Thank you
The Best vid on burr removal i have ever watched.Great job your a true teacher
Now I understand what I have been doing wrong sharpening my knives, thank you so much for the info brother it was definitely definitely helpful for me!!!!!
👊
@@NeevesKnives hey Jared if you use 3 stones to sharpen your knife do you take the burr off after each stone or just after the last and final stone ?
@@christurnerct49 He answered that in the video.
This was the video that finally got me to a sharp edge! Before this one, I didn't know how to get and then remove a burr so I just made my knives duller lol.
These burr tips are so helpful, I could really feel it like you said with your finger, if you have a good burr it’s very easy to feel it.
Jared, I see more comments like this and I could just like them but I’ve to express my gratitude as well.😊 Today I received my field sharpener and I’m sharpening my second knife atm. I colored the bevel with a sharpie and after 65 strokes on the first side the sharpie is gone and I created a notable burr. I just repeated this process on the other side and I’m so proud of myself already and so stoked that after watching tons of videos these last months, which a lot of your channel, I finally get to do it myself and it’s actually working. I had to watch a video of the burr again before I go to the finer stone. That stroke to knock the burr in the middle before you continue to the next stone. I never do this but I actually became a member of you earlier! You will probably see me in more comments in the future! Thanks so far Jared and Kara ❤ greetings from the Netherlands (I’m going through a rough depression and this amazing knife community has probably literally saved my life the lasts couple of months)
Thanks for making this. Wasn't quite sure what to do once you get a burr not very many videos tell you
Thanks for the tip. Also great to see it done on an aggressive stone. Really like the sharpening tips.
Alot more people don't know about the burr and its importance to sharpening a stone, thanks for this info!
Thanks for explaining from start to end. It was very informative!
I have many more very independent sharpening tutorials
Very instructive, thnx! I sharpen quicker than that, but it's good to know! I will start using my strop now!
I have hundreds of sharpening videos etc if you go to my playlist I think you will enjoy the stuff I have made in the past 2 years or so a bit more
What knife is this?
Civivi Elementum
Thank you so much for this video. Very helpful. I really appreciate it. I didn’t realize that you want a burr on each stone. I’ve also been looking for a resource that explains how to remove a burr! Good to know that you are moving it side to side until it fatigues.
Yes definitely, depending on the ht depends on how fast it will break off?and whether it comes off all at once, but getting a small burr on all the stones is very important to getting a very sharp edge
Thanks for this! On the stones, does it matter if the knife strokes are forwards (blade first) or backwards?
Hi, no. Outdoors55 channel is superb; he demo'd this using a high power microscope, and there is absolutely no difference forwards or back. When you are working on the blade curve you ought to be going ALONG the edge, otherwise you'll ruin the curvature. If you watch this video again you'll see what I mean; I always go forwards square to the stone until I reach the curve, then I slide the blade around to catch the curved portion, just like in this video. Good luck with it, if you follow this video you'll get shaving sharp every time, it's very satisfying.
@@tyrotrainer765 thanks!
thanks so much because of you i know how to sharpen my knives i owe you brother i leave a comment and a like on every video
Great video! Just got my Civivi Elementum and I’ve been looking for a sharpening video for Civivi Elementum in D2. Thank’s Neeve’s ... probably the best explanation of the sharpening process I’ve seen. Those diagrams were on point! I just hit that bell... I usually don’t hit that for subscriptions but the way you explain things makes it easy for a beginner like myself. I just got a Sharpal 300/1200 diamond stone, while not a DMT I think it will work once I break it in. You and that Rooster guy are my absolute favorite for sharpening videos. I could watch these all day it’s kind of relaxing... I know it sounds weird but it is what it is. Thank you again, this showed me exactly what I was doing wrong. My man 👊
Awesome Greg Im always trying to put sharpening videos out with a lot of great info, I just posted a full sharpening yesterday on Maxamet and the video i posted today has a full sharpening at the end of the video, not the best for information but has good visuals
I’m hooked on your sharpening videos lol. Very informative 👍
Thats amazing! Thank you
Thanks, I learned a lot here. Good explanations and I never thought about how you can read the edge.
Another awesome sharpening video! Thanks. Loving these!
After watching this, I VERY quickly realized what I’m doing wrong with my lansky complete set. Thank you very much sir 🙏🙏
i have fixed angled videos that might help as well, the information will be the same aside ffrom the device
@@NeevesKnives thank you 🙏
I have the standard ceramic stone lansky and I get one hell of an edge CONSISTENTLY but my issue was always deburring. I never did try a 3-2-1 step though. Thanks again sir.
Side note- do you prefer the work sharp to the lansky or vice verse?
@@Befuddledzebra_6 go watch either some of my shorts or one of my most recent sharpening videos, ive been recently explaining burrs much better with an even better way to remove, do edge trailing passes on each side as soft and light pressure as possible, taking that gentle approach is key
@@Befuddledzebra_6 here check this video out and pay attention to when i get to burr removal its at min 14:12 the whole video is good though ruclips.net/video/R1Oid_YSqcI/видео.htmlsi=f1M5cByEIfPmf8wi
I’ve gotta say man, your attentiveness to my simpletons question has definitely earned a subscribe and a spot in my top 5 RUclipsrs. Thanks again man, I will definitely be watching that video along with several others 🙏
So with a fixed angle system, doing forward finishing strokes before stropping will accomplish the same thing?
If you were going to go up in grit after this stone, would you be creating a burr on the higher grit (second stone) also? Or is it more polishing? If creating a new burr, why not just start with the higher grit stone?
You always want to try and create a burr, on very fine stones it's much smaller because they don't cut as fast
Excellent video I have always wondered about the burr process great job explaining it
I hope this helps, the hrc really effects the way a knife de burrs, lower the hrc the more it folds back and forth, the easier it is to remove usually the higher
Very nice freehand work!
Fantastic explanation not many people cover
As always thank you for sharing J!
The Burr is really important when you sharpen Knives!
Definitely, some would say most important id say second but most and second most important go hand in hand
@@NeevesKnives exactly!
Fantastic teacher!
What stones do you recommend for a beginner and would you recommend a cheep mora scandi grind to start with?
amzn.to/3dqERPu
amzn.to/3LxpwZJ
These are the plates I mostly recommend for beginners, and morass are great and I do recommend them but not as far as learning how to sharpen
Can you do tutorial on how to polish blade body and primary bevel on scratched knife to make a knife look good again
Get a blasting machine, but yes I will
@NeevesKnives haha, more powah. Yesterday I DIYed handsanding my mother-in-law kitchen knife. It got better but not to the level I would call it good enough.
When I was looking for a tutorial. There are many good videos that use power tools. But I'm not at the level that I want to invest into power tool yet. Handsanding an old knife back to life is a very satisfying experience. But seeing options from handsanding upto professional-level power tools would be an interesting topic for me too!
What I have learned so far owning my first decent knife is that it's not just about sharpening but I also want to keep a good finish on it.
Appreciate your response!
Does it matter how you orient the knife? I was taught to have the sharp edge trailing, spine leading you might say
I got the same results with a 400 grit diamond and the other side is 600. I also got a strop with 1 micron diamond spray and also the strop comes with the green polish, I was wondering what is best to coat my strop with? .1 Micron diamond spray or the green polish the strop is coming with 🤔 I was thinking about making half and half polish and .1 micron spray.
Should you get a burr with each finer stone you use
First of all I love your videos. You are very knowledgeable and seem to have a desire to teach. So with that being said, I have a question. I often here you and others speak of a toothy edge. Is that for example, if you have a very sharp polished edge but it won’t bite into a tomato’s skin easily. Where as a less polished edge even on a less sharp knife does? If so how do you get or even know when an edge is toothy and when would you want polished vs toothy? I would appreciate you clearing this up for me. Thanks
Jared can u use a peace of 400g sandpaper then 600g sandpaper with wd40 on it then use cardboard with buffing compound n go opposite way to buff the edge seen it on another video an just wanted ur thoughts on it since know u know wat ur doing thxs
it depends on the steel if its a mid grade and lower yes you can, but stones will always give better results
What angle did you sharpen at
I usually sharpen at about 17° give or take
How do I get the right angle? And what stones should I buy,by that I mean the grit of the stone.
To make it easy 300, 600, 1200, grit if you want polish then you need finer grts but those are the most important, I show in many videos how to find the angle that's on your edge already, there's no right angle it really depends on what you want, 17 to 20 degrees is what I would recommend for most people, they do sell angle guides for a few dollars, but it's not hard to find a good angle with out, half way between holding your blade straight up and down is an OK angle, repeating the angle is the most important part so find an angle you can comfortably control over and over is most important for freehand.i usually make a mark in the middle of my thumb at the tip of my thumb that imo is usually a great angle or slightly higher, I f you have skinny thumbs then go a little higher, watch my step by step freehand Sharpening video
I've made major strides with freehand after several months of practicing almost daily and making tons of mistakes. Your fingertip painting method has really helped me maintain a consistent angle, especially near the tip. One error I've continued to make from time to time is when I'm not hitting the sharpie near the heel. When that happens, I try to focus several swipes just on the heel area, but by doing so, I end up creating a wide bevel up toward the belly because when focusing on the heel, I'm also unknowingly hitting the belly as well. And I'm probably unknowingly rocking the knife a little bit, thus creating a wider bevel. Just wondered if you ever saw this and if this makes sense. From now on, I'm just going to continue to make full strokes until the heel eventually works itself out.
I know exactly what your saying, you are rocking a bit, probably by putting pressure on the heel, make sure you dont let it roch side to side at all, and maintain the same pressure, until you get good at feeling yourself rocking it takes a little time to feel those subtle differences
@@NeevesKnives Yeah, I’m definitely doing it, even when trying not to. Moving forward I’m not going to freak out when heel sharpie is slow to disappear. When I concentrate on that one spot for too long is when I screw up all the great work I’ve done on the rest of the bevel.
@@MrEric0822 sometimes its just because its thicker steel, so it removes slower just keep going and it will cut in , and if you do work on the heel just make sure the rest of the blade is also hitting the stone that is able to, that is one reason why i love seeing a good choil because it makes things so much easier
man thank you ! such a good video.. I have good luck with aus8, 8crmov, vg10 but on steels like s30v, s90v, s110v I cant seem to break the damn burr off ! I love DMT stones - you dont use lubrication ? and what pressure are you using.. Thanks in advance !
I use a little pressure but not a lot esp on diamonds, certain stones more pressure than others, if your using diamond the burr should be pretty easy, try making the burr smaller, and intead of trying to break it off, work it off by doing passes on the side the burr is on until its gone or small then flip and do a 321 pass doing 3 passes on each side then 2 passes on each side do that a few times then 1 pass on each side and do that like 10 to 15 times it will work the burr off, i dont use Lubrication on my diamond stones, i do on my other stones.
@@NeevesKnives thank you ! binged watched all your videos haha, ty for helping out the knife community !
@@petervu9773 👍🏼
Thx for the demo lesson
I think you need to clarify what you mean by "make your burr as small as possible". Does this translate to simply less passes on the stone?
No the development of a burr is the steel that builds up on apex, if you have to develop a large burr which is common, you can knock it off and develop a new one. once the scratch pattern has reached the apex and you can feel the burr you are good. You Should watch my more recent sharpening videos in the past 2 years I have in depth content with gteat editing to help understand that I didn't know how to do when I filmed this
@NeevesKnives right so basically what you're saying is that as soon as a burr is formed, you can stop sharpening that side, as making the burr any larger by continuing to make passes on the stone is a waste of time/will make removing the burr more difficult?
@zucchiniiiuwu yes, but it needs to be from heel to tip of the knifes edge. If there's very very small spots that won't seem to hit, get them on the next sharpening if needed in order to preserve steel. Another reason you want to develop a smaller burr if you had to develop a large burr is that very large burr can create micro tare out when doing your burr removal. I would say don't worry about those details atm get decent at it first but 100% go watch my sharpening playlist videos, I have videos on everything in detail, and I've learned alot that I didn't know then. even if you just type neevesknives knife sharpening you should get a bunch of vids to pop up but best is to go to my playlist
@@zucchiniiiuwu ruclips.net/p/PLwstYNm1FaXfoQHfiCevR4XpqY-81xi43&si=9zhCerwAk5QnxmxJ
@@NeevesKnives thanks man, you've been very helpful!
I ruined two 300 dollar benchmades by taking off too much metal in multiple sessions. Always thought the burr had to be big. Great vid
This is a great tutorial
Thanks
I'm wondering how and why a burr forms on a microscopic level. The burr is coming from a different location then where the metal is being removed from. Why does the burr not fall off the other side into dust or stick the stone? Is the metal becoming more compact when you press it into the stone?
The steel is rolling over to the other side, think about whittling a spear from a stick and doing the sharp point of the tip, when your shaving it eventually it will have a little flappy piece of wood at the tip
@@NeevesKnives I was thinking that it would be more like sanding wood rather then carving because your stone is gliding over the surface unlike a knife that is getting underneath a piece of wood to carve it and pull big chunks out. Also the wood only folds over because it gets flimsy but doesn't get removed from a different location on the stick. I guess my nerdy side was just getting curious. Sorry I know this is irrelevant to actually getting a knife sharp
I’ve heard people say stropping D2 takes away from the edge a little by rounding it... is it possible to over strop?
Its definitely possible to over strop, but stropping is still good, and as long as your holding your angle and not putting a lot of pressure you wont round the edge, that comes from lifting the angle and putting to much pressure
Hey if your able to come to the live tonight at 730 pm central
Thanks very good and helpful info
Right on, I wasn't quite sure what a burr was. Nicely done! 👍. So I was looking for a video from you on how to fix a chip out of the blade, thinking that was a burr but completely different. I'm trying to find out how to fix a chip? Do you have to take the blade bevel down to that chip asking the whole blade? Geez. I have a S30V blade that I've been being nice to and cutting mostly fruit and I noticed little chips out of the blade cutting edge? I don't know how that happened but sucks. I'll check your videos for how you fix that if even doable? Thanks for your vids. Great job man. ✌️
The sharpening tips just keep on coming! Thank you sir! ✌️
Jared, I don’t know if you are a hunter, but even if you aren’t, figured you could answer. I typically stop at 600 grit (diamond) because I like a toothy edge. I was sharpening my hunting knife (to skin deer) and I was wondering if something extra toothy (stopping at 300) would be better than say a 1500 more fine edge. Which way would be better to cut through hair and meat?
So if it was for the meat then id say 1200 grt, only because you want a finer edge for food, and at 1200 it should still have a good amount of bite, but for skinning 600-800 I feel works best, under 600 can still work great, I find that really bites and slices skin really good hair can get caught in to toothy of an edge and be a little harder to get off but 600 - 800 cleans off easily.
@@NeevesKnives Thx! I may take it to 600 then. It’s currently super sharp and deburred at 300, but I’ll go with 600 based on your experience.
Great video!
In addition to the health probs hindering my sharpening, I am thinking my patience is fkn me too. never been one for having them but when I was working on something (carrier)
I just got the Worksharp Ken onion sharpener in to review and Its definitely a game changer for those that want very fast results
@@NeevesKnives eh, maybe for heavy work or profile or something I just don't picture that thing doing anything I want in the shop, but you know I will watch and see you change my mind or not. Plus it strikes me as a glorified power file had a bastard with a mini grind/Polishing machine.
@@carbonitegamorrean8368 ya know i always thought the same thing but its better than i thought
I dont know what i am doing wrong… When i sharpen, my knifes are easly shaving sharp but i cant get them to be hair whittling sharp… When i look with a light at the edge, i alway have a microburr that i cant get rid of…
Finishing stone is Venev 5000grit and 1micron leather strop…
Very helpful!
Thanks Bro!!
I love to work the tip!!!!!! I’m a pro at workin it!!!!!!
Some tip action
@@NeevesKnives you know it brother,,,
154CM with a burr that literally hangs up my finger nails. Sharp af, but with a crazy laid over burr. Same process? FTR, chisel ground. Advice?
I think i did a chisel grind video, but if not sharpen like you would normally on one side create the burr, and knock it off with a ceramic rod or with the stone your using, do that with every stone until your finishing stone, then stropp the side with the bevel, and lightly on the other side, when your knocking your burr off just lightly rub it on the stone at a higher angle just enough for the burr to snag off
It seems to me the burr gets harder to detect the higher up the stone progression you go.
Ive gotten very good at detecting the burr, i base it on smoothness, thats why i use my skin and finger instead of my nail
What is the point of going beyond 300 if you get a good edge this way and you don't care about a mirror polish
Nothing really if your happy with 300 grit, cut tests will show you get better edge retention with a higher grit, not necessarily a mirror but a finer grit edge can give you a longer lasting edge, but depending on what your using your knife on and what you want depends on the finish and the angle you want your edge at
@@NeevesKnives glad I bought venev and KME stones in 4 different grits :D
Wow! You nearly cut your thumb off right at the start there!
Yep, I removed the burr. And, as is the case every God damn time I attempt to free hand sharpen, the knife is now blunter than it was before. Yeah, the way to get my knives sharper is to pay someone who can actually do it
u r job offer in BundesMacht Corp. will be emailed to u plz accept u will be the SWORD Sharpener of the Samuri which is great honour only the few steels maker can have
Lol get it off there!!!!!!
as helpful as this is.... it's just 17 min of him repeating himself
It's an older video, I've definitely improved my camera and filming
Too much talk, not enough action.
Is that what your wife told you?
Holy shit get on with it… this is the most dragged out video