My Top 5 Favorite Knife Steels & Why
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- Опубликовано: 21 сен 2024
- THIS IS MY TOP 5 FAVORITE BLADE STEELS ON KNIVES, THESE ARE STEELS THAT I LOVE THE MOST ON MY KNIVES. THESE ARE THE BEST KNIFE STEELS YOU CAN HAVE ON YOUR KNIFE, AFTER YEARS OF TESTING DIFFERENT KNIVES AND BLADE STEELS THESE ARE MY 5 ULTIMATE STEELS OF ALL. SO IF YOU ARE WANTING THE BEST BLADE STEELS IMO THESE ARE WHAT I WOULD GO WITH FOR POCKET KNIFE STEELS.
KNIFE STEEL GUIDE for quick understanding of each steel broken down
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I DID MAKE A MISTAKE IN THE VIDEO WHEN SPEAKING ABOUT CRUWEAR, THE TOUGHNESS WOULD BE AN 8/10, WHEN READING THE SPECS I READ THE BLADE HQ ONE WHICH IS NOT AS ACCURATE ON THAT PARTICULAR STEEL AS LARRIN ON KNIFE STEEL NERDS. I LINKED INFORMATION IN THE DESCRIPTION TO CHARTS ETC.. AND VANAX IS ACTUALLY 8/10 IN EDGE RETENTION. THE CHART I WAS READING WAS NOT ACCURATE FOR THE EDGE RETENTION ON VANAX. THANK YOU FOR WATCHING
a lowercase comment
You are the first time that I have heard a knife noob talk about sharpening angle, congratulations. Some steels make a good razor and some steels make a good axe. To state it simply, we can expect a correlation between angle and strength but that really doesn't take the texture of the steel or grain orientation into account. However, this is a concern that we really can't avoid.
Usually, I will sharpen my everyday work knife at 35 degrees. It is the steepest angle that I can get a decent edge on, just barely shaving sharp if I putt a little too much effort into sharpening it. But, overall, use it for a beater and sharpen it again. That is my minimum standard for a pocket knife. Kitchenware, somebody is just going to try to cut the dishes in half with it so why bother with putting much thought into it.
I do agree with you about 14c28n. I had one knife in it, and I was amazed me how easily the thing sharpened to a razor. I didn't know that it was made out of a modern razor stock, thank you for that information, I'll want to buy another.
154CM isn't nearly a budget steel. I still own one knife in ATS34 and it holds an edge on my "sloyd" knife better than any steel that I would usually buy. I did try to sharpen that knife well enough to shave with at one time. My Case XX was a much more comfortable shave. Overall, ats34 like 30 degrees for whittling hardwood and give you the razor burn from hell.
420 try it again at 35 degrees. It's actually a great steel for the tackle box or backpack because nobody ever washes the thing before they close the top and dendrites start forming. I had a diving knife in 420. I tried sharpening it at 40 degree axe angle. I did that because your hands are always wet when working around the water, so I figured that the divers were right and you wouldn't want it too sharp. At 40 degrees, 420 will still shave hair.
440c, 440b, 440a. A subject in itself and a good lesson for you. 440c was intended for mass production of cutlery. Back in the 1980's you could pick up a huge variety of knives made from US made 440c. The Japanese were buying it, making and selling premium knives out of it. Fiskars/Gerber was selling huge amounts of knives made from it. It was never a very good steel until the Japanese started selling it back to us. There is a reason for this; 440c has a secret. If you were to buy 440c and have it shipped immediately from the mill, it arrives in an annealed condition. You may then cut, stamp and make your blades from a rather soft metal. Once you stop and put the product in the warehouse, the 400c will begin to age harden. If you simply leave your knives in the warehouse, they will harden themselves to approximately 57rc. (So, it says 57rc-59rc, no point in testing it either.) Now, if you were to do as the Japanese did with it, it never gets shipped to Japan in time, you will have a completely different result. The steel manufacturers will tell you this. If you give it some thought, you could just buy up old knives and fix it. (Kershaw is actually worse than Gerber is at it.)
D2, the worst knife steel that I know of. If it were rusty old bedsprings, instead, at least it wouldn't take all day to sharpen it. It was designed and intended for making tools for cutting metals, A2 and O1 have the same intention. We can assume that nobody intended any of these steels be used at any sharpening angle flatter than 45 degrees.
Some of the steel mills will go on and on about the carbide size in their sales pitch. Give this some thought. If your minimum standard for sharpening a knife is a 2000 grit abrasive, why would you even consider making a knife out of a steel that has carbides bigger than your sharpening stone? If your minimum standard is a stropped edge then there is no point in trying to strop a bunch of glued together rocks. In short, your stropping compound is finer than a half micron. (You like REX45. Going from memory, REX 90 was intended for cutting steel and REX45 was intended for "machine cutting blades." I don't know if the tanneries use it or not.)
Hope that that helps. (I'm looking for a skiving knife today. I think I'll buy an old Hickory paring knife.)
Do you have chart from sk5 steel? Would be nice to have something familiar to compare with.
@@joeljokinen9051 I owned a Cold Steel in SK5. That was years back when there really weren't many specialty knife steels available. If we were to assume that Cold Steel did an excellent job of tempering, they did. (In this day and age, your Cold Steel's are a name only.)
It is basically 1065 modified...as such, on any big heavy blade it is a better choice than a steel that cracks and shatters on impact. I chose it because I was growing tired of spending a lot of time on 440c. It does sharpen faster than 440c so, for a tool that will primarily be whittling soft woods, it is a good choice.
Most of the whittling knife manufactures consider 1095 as premium and I was hoping to find a supplier where I could try 52100. (The equivalents to 1065 are the low end Beaver Craft brand that is highly recommended by the RUclips reviews government.) 52100 has specs of a huge improvement in tensile strength and I personally think that strength is just as important as compressional strength(Hardness).
In the meantime, you could just buy a Moranive in carbon steel or a Tramontana machete and find out. Specs on paper are one thing but actual experience is another. Human beings have been pounding cutting tools out of rocks for at least twenty thousand years, there is no need for me to decide that the better rocks won't get better. (They seem to have left the best, low cost razor stock in the closet because somebody made a cheaper one - 12c27.)
I have to say I always walk away feeling like I've learned something from your videos which is why your Chanel is at the top of my favorites.
I appreciate that!
Same here.
That's why I became a member. Few bucks a month to support the lad. 👍
Exactly !!! And always get a thumbs up but I got 4 kids 2 n diapers and 1 in collage so sending cash isn't in the budget but the dude that does thank you for supporting great creators like this guy
@@experienceprecision5406 I appreciate that 👊
Shoutout to Spyderco for using lots of different steels so we can sharpen them!
Bro you are the king of sharpeners. Wealth of knowledge and willing to teach and share it. Thanks man.
CPM 20CV and CPM S45VN are two of my underrated favs. Fantastic well balanced steels for this hot and humid Houston climate.
Way too brittle man no steel should have a glass edge. Hey be careful!!! Not a line on premium steels
@@thomaszinecker1785I've never had chipping issues with s35vn so I just stick with that and 14c28n as they strop up in like 10 seconds so I keep a shaving edge for long time with those
how tf is 20cv underrated? literally half the knives on the market are in 20cv or m390 😂
@@acid6urns That fact the 20CV and M390 are more readily available than S90V shows they are very overrated if anything
@@thomaszinecker1785 name a single 20cv steel blade you broke…
S30V does just fine for me holds a good edge is easy to sharpen responds to a strop real well. People hate on it but it just works for me 👍
I didnt know people hated on S30V lol
@@MattH-wg7ou Just compared to M390 and Magnacut, etc. If the price is reasonable, most people are just fine with it. You just can't price it like a premium steel any more since it no longer out-performs most of them.
Agreed. There was a time where S30V was the industry standard for a "decent" knife. Times just change and we have a lot of other options. But for most people, S30V is going to do the job for EDC and be very low maintenance as it doesn't rust easily. There a plethora of solid EDC knives with that steel. I've explored into other steels higher range and I have to say I would always feel just better about having my EDC with S30V becuase I know it'll do its job and take a moderate beating.@@IlliniDog01 What I would say is though is that these knives with S30V haven't really declined in price (cough cough BENCHMADE) and these companies need to realize that the sliding scale has forced that steel into mid-tier
@@IlliniDog01It’s still a premium steel that out performs lower, more commonly used grades of steel.
S30V is very close to the best steels on every category.
Bro, your channel is so informative. Love learning about this stuff! Thanks for taking the time to break it down.
One of the two most helpful videos for me. Keep up the good work. Please!
Thanks for the content Jared. I received a Knife with nitro v for Christmas. I have been having trouble keeping an edge but after watching some of your sharpening videos I realized I was overstropping and taking it to to high of a grit for my needs. Thanks for helping to sharpen my skills and setting my edges straight. I really enjoy your informative detailed videos
if you want to go with a higher grit finish lower the angle, with any steel the lower the angle the better a fine edge will turn out, so if you are going with a mid range angle keep it in the medium grit
@@NeevesKnives thanks for providing the tools and a little confidence. I have a better understanding of what I am looking at and looking for. I'm now willing to explore more in my sharpening without feeling like I'm screwing it up
For sure. You want a razor polish? Better make it thin as a razor to slice well. Nitro-V, 14c28n are made to be razor blade steels. I like toothy edges myself, though. Maybe 1k at most but even a good 400 grit.
Awesome this taught me allot and my next knife purchase I had planned was the right choice it'll get used for work and seld defense I have tiny girl hands and am 5'5 about 135lbs so ergonomics of the knife I've chosen are amazing I chose the Joker Avispa S with the burl birch handle and 14c28n blade I can't wait to get it man it's so so sweet I been wanting a good stainless 3in blade now I can get my true Damascus 1095 blade a break it was a gift and is sentimental in value to me it's priceless because of the person who gifted it to me and my benchmade saddle mountain skinner is a felony for me if I carry it concealed stock sticks because that knife is unbelievably good was gonna get a hidden canyon but it's hard to stomach the price tag so Joker Avispa S is gonna be
This is a SUPER video
All the info I'd ever need
Lots of effort has gone into production
Thank you!
Your passion, enthusiasm, and extensive knowledge base is Super Impressive!! Thanks, as always! ✨😺
Jared is fascinating to watch. This channel is what got me into knives 2 years ago. I would have never imagined ever having a knife addiction but here I am, still buying knives I don’t need.😂
Neeves, I'm really appreciating your deep dive into the different attributes of steels and what can be expected of them with different grits. Ii tried for years to explain just how effective micro teeth can be in cutting. Particularly tough materials. On one on BF paid attention as the local guru there who claimed to be a certified, Metallurgical engineer said no such thing existed. I finally did a deep dive into his history and found that he had so such degree but had attended a trade school. I guess his country does not have the standards we enjoy.
Your are doing Fine and are actually getting the communities attention! Good Job!
KnifeMaker
I love it when you do videos of this nature...myself and many many others have learned so very much from Neeves Knives . You have the very best channel for learning about steels, angels, geometry, grits, stones ect. That 8 have viewed.
So keep it up BROTHER!
I really liked this video. I wish i would have leaned about the different steel options years ago. I had no idea how many options there were. I mainly purchase budget knives and normally look for 14c28n right off the bat. I really like that steel. Thanks for sharing your knowledge about this. It's very helpful and interesting.
Thank You. Cleared up years of confusion. Your explanation of Geometry vs Toughness especially helpful.
Glad to hear that cruwear is high on your list. It has become my very favorite steel, specifically in a pocket knife. I love it.
I love listening to experts explain the characteristics of blade steels. Early on, this info played a huge role in my knife choices. But then thinking about how I used my knives, i concluded that the steel wasn't that big a deal. I mean, how much better wiil magnacut cut up a sammich over 14C28N? For me, it's just not the end all, be all when evaluating a knife. If was big into collecting/reselling I might feel different. Great content!
My favorite knife hands down is the harbor freight icon D2 knife! Very sharp out of the box and it’s never rusted, it’s my everyday but if it ever rusts I’m definitely walking in and warranting it that same day for a new one! Have it for 3 months now never needed to re sharpen
D2 have a great edge retention
K390 is my current favorite as well. I got the spyderco leaf jumper in k390 and it was just a strange experience. Just a beast of a steel.
Love k390 zdp189 and truly have never been disappointed with s90v
Thanks Jerad for sharing all your experience with these knife steels. For Magnacut, you mentioned HRC is very critical to the edge retention. I'm wondering with all the models you cut tested and/or sharpened, which companies do you think are doing great heat treatment on MC?
Wouaaaa,,, you just show the Kunwu Compadre and the Quiet Carry Drift. Two of my favorite ones ..! ^^
From one experienced freehand sharpener to another, not gonna lie I was saddened that M4 didn't make its way onto the list😂Still to this day I will preach from the rooftops that my 65.2 HRC custom in M4 is the best steel I have ever sharpened (it's a stingy S.O.B. but I love the challenge lol) and the best steel I have ever used in application for cutting long term. Yeah it's not stainless but I live in southern Cali so I can't even rust my 1095/01 tool knives even with effort trying to do so 😂🤷♂
All jokes aside this is a great list and you're videos are always entertaining; keep making content that makes knives fun💪
sometimes i really like these types of videos instead of a knife review. thumbs up .
Thanks for all the sharpening tips. My knives have never been sharper. Thanks Jared
Lots of knowledge here. Always appreciate these videos.
I would trust Dr.Larrin’s data over blade hq. You do great work brother 👍🏻
just ordered that Manix 2 lw in Rex 45. Super stoked for my first spyderco 🤟🏼
Manix 2 is the best spyderco too. Good buy. Head the flytanium and get yourself a metal ball bearing cage and thumb slider for maximum toughness.
@@deadvikingtrollsill check those out thanks
Try a Native 5, too
I would put S110V on that list
Good to hear, just ordered a Manix 2 in Rex 45 and was somewhat second guessing my decision until I watched your video and another one praising it’s abilities.
👊
My TOP 5 steels: 1) Edge/Bevel geometries. 2) Succesful heat treatment. 3) Handle design. 4) Locking mechanism (or sheath if it's fixed blade) 5) Blade thickness/overall design,not for the looks, but for the performance/functionality of the tool.
Lastly, I don't have a favorite steel for fodlers, I enjoy though, Ballbearing steel,Vanadis 4 Extra and CPM 3V, on my outdoor fixed blade knives that I use.
Awesome video. Always appreciate your insight into steels.
Man... Thank yoy for the great honest work you do for us❤
Your the man! Dropping all the knowledge....Awesome channel!
This guy! Absolute font of all sharpening knowledge. To have come from a shady background and risen to this level is something to be deeply proud of, the knife community as a whole is all the better for having Jared at the forefront.
You're a living legend my dude.
I wish Rex 121 was available in a wider array of knives. It holds an edge like no other.
Really good video, love your explanations for your choices. Given me something to think about with what grit's I want to be using with my different steels!
That tomlov camera makes your videos even better than they already are. Details matter
I loved it also, and have one (Tomlov DM401) on order.
Well done good sir! Loving the rex45 and cruwear spyderco's i recently aquired.
We wouldn't have these steels without spyderco.. that's why they are my favorite brand
Good info. My favourite steels are K390/M4 for folders and 80crv2/cru-wear for fixed.
Great, great video. Never too old to learn.
It's realy very interresting to learn about the differents blade steel !! ^^
As always my man great video can really see the effort you put into them and man learned so much from you keep it up
I recently bought a 14c28n qsp grebe. It cost me 85 doll hairs. Which is the most expensive in my humble collection. It does seem sharper out of the box than the qsp penguin in d2...I haven't made the leap into high-end knives yet...
In order from favorite to least favorite for me. CPM M4, Cruwear, Magnacut, S45VN.
Cruwear and magnacut are pretty perfect steels. M4/4v are pretty perfect BUT you can't sharpen them AND they rust easy! So that's not a "premium" steel for a noobie ya know? I thought 20cv was but it has even more warnings: hard to sharpen. Brittle edge.
@@thomaszinecker1785M390 (20CV) was my favorite until i started sharpening it. Now, i prefer CruWear or MagnaCut.
Great video brother and I agree with you on all points. I happen to absolutely love k390 as well and all the different edges it can take. Thanks for sharing it’s appreciated 👊🏼
Thanks Jared 😎
I personally prefer nitro v or k390 for folders. 52100 or cruwear for fixed blades. For toughness applications I like 8670
My favorite steels are also K390 and in the budget range 14C28N! I have 4 Spydercos in K390 and love them all. Love the patina as well. I have two Maxamets and the verdict is still out on that. I have one Maxamet with a highly polished edge and one at 400 grit, both with a 17° bevel. It will be interesting to see what the results are. Sharpened them both just a few days ago on my tsProf Hunter.
Thanks for all that explanations..! ^^
Nice work. I mostly agree with your top 5. I adore cruwear. There's no better steel for a hard use knife, imo. If I had to take one knife to rely on for a few months 100 miles from the nearest road, it would be made of cruwear. For folding knives, I love k390 and Rex45. For both I have knives that I've used for 3+ years that still have the factory edge. They just strop back to shaving sharp. Amazing stuff!
K390 is without a doubt my favorite.
I’ve been pleasantly surprised with my para 3 in maxamet. The edge retention is ridiculous.
I really like Vanax superclean! Totally corrosion resistant yet holds a decent edge! Quiet Carry Waypoint...
Holds a great edge it's an amazing steel
Love this video. Nice work man - super informative and interesting. Makes me want to expand my steel variety 👌
Seems that you are right about sharpening s30v, cause ever since I switched from a smooth strop to a medium coarse strop I noticed it’s keeping a better edge and it preforms better when it’s slightly toothy aswell. Thanks kneeves, the sharpening tips help and I concur with your thoughts from experience
K390 is my favorite right now for EDC. Edge is great and I can get it sharper than others, but I also found I like it as a "user" more partially because it will patina and show use, and I am not afraid to "mess it up" like other safe-queen knives I own.
3v is my favorite for fixed blade/outdoor knives, although magnacut is up there now, depending on use. Sadly don't own any Cru-Wear, I may have to remedy that soon.
Lastly, I would say CTS-XHP is underrated, but it could just be that I only ever carried it in my Chaparral, which has excellent blade geometry and heat-treat for a small EDC fixed blade.
i absolutely agree, and wish we could get more cts xhp, the best ive tried was from spyderco and it made me fall in love with it. im not sure why more companies are not using it i heard a rumor that its getting hard to get in large quantities
Try k890, you'll like it better than 3v. Or if you want better 3v, try the low temper protocols like delta3v etc.
I also heard Cold Steel moved away from HXP due to availability issues. @@NeevesKnives
In the end people just don't use it enough for it to be more available in larger quantities. Maybe CTS just ain't big enough.
I personally love CPM-M4, but that's because I can get a good edge on it and it holds. It's not too common though, probably because it's hard to manufacture with and because it's got really poor corrosion resistance. Still love the knives I have/had in M4. Really miss my 810 Osborne I accidentally shipped back to Oregon, but I got another in M390, so at least I still got an 810. Just not in my favorite steel to use.
CruWear is excellent
when it comes to 14c and nitro v, those steels would have much better edge retention if companies heat treated them to optimal ranges. if companies would run them 61-62 hrc or even a smidge higher, the performance would really be night and day in comparison
Magnacut is only good with high rc on pocket knives. After using a 65rc custom that was 9thou bte I will NEVER buy soft magnacut again. I've learned high hardness is benefit on just about any steel on a pocketknife.
I like D2 because it holds a good edge and is super rugged it’s a good choice for a bushcraft knife. It’s drawback is that it’s difficult to sharpen
I carry d2. In my experience, you don't really need to sharpen it often. Just strop it to revive the edge.
I absolutely luv the Spyderco Cruwear. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
I'm not sure if there was a similar video on the channel, but it would be great to make a rating of knife manufacturers who harden their knives better.
Yes. The heat treat is so important yet so hidden in the production science. The answer is to know the hrc. Also hard to find.
Im thinking f getting the cru-carta PM2 and you have reinforced my decision. Do you think that is a good option?
I like Elmax for stainless and Aogami for carbon steel. Edge retention isn't everything.
I love spyderco mostly because they bring us a lot of awsome steels we wouldn't have otherwise . Spy27 and s45 have been amazing for as a work beaters cause the maintenance is near nothing .
Based steel preference. Especially for k390 and cru-wear. Absolutely killer steels.
My Favorite Steels. Budget: A8 Mod/K329, 154CM, 14C28N, 13C26/AEB-L, 19C27 (one of the most underrated steel and can reach a high hardness, we usually only see it on Japanese kitchen knives). My favorite Powdered (Premium Steels): RWL 34 (at 63-64HRC), S30V, 3V, 4V, Vanadis 4 Extra, Cruwear, Rex 45, K390, K294, 15V, Maxamet, S45VN, Elmax, S90V, Vanax,
im not sure if i have ever tried any 19c27 sounds like i would like it though
@@NeevesKnives You would LOVE it, trust me ;) It's basically the same as the old AEB-H.
Hello
So I've used and had pocket knives all my life just about for multiple purposes from work to camping and everything in-between. Now I'm no expert on steels and sharpening plus knowing the potential of edges. But as of the past few year's most my edc knives have been made with D2 steel. I own several other's with different steels, but I find I use more stuff with D2 then anything else. And over the past year I've been really trying too get better with sharpening my stuff and learning all I can. I have a wide variety of stones from very coarse too even some stones that are super smooth like marble. Now when I began my journey into sharpening and was buying all kinds of stones and strops etc I got some of these stones in kit's and had no idea how a stone that so smooth like a marble how it does anything lol. I'm talking stuff that is like around 6000 grit and up too I believe I have a few that are even 1200 grit and possibly higher. Now my 2 strops I own have 2 different leathers one is rougher and one is more smooth. I'm telling you all this because I'd like you're input on the D2 steel and what leather is better the rough or smooth and also are stones above 3000 even worth using 🤔 if you wouldn't mind could you please explain your opinions please and thank you. I guess being I'm 43 I should know this stuff but I just never really took it seriously growing up till a few year's back. Now I do know that D2 is a budget steel and mostly used in the tool industry for wrenches etc. But I really wanna hear you're opinions on it for a knife blade because I've been actually liking it. My only complaint has been getting it sharp and it staying decently sharp.
Got my girlfriend a Civivi Vision in Nitro V and I'm really surprised with the edge retention, and I'm a particle steel kinda guy
I peeped Steve Callari kitchen knife, I picked 2 up and they’re amazing.
A knife steel is far more than just hardness and edge retention. Way too many knife enthusiasts hyper focus on hardness and edge retention, it reminds me of people who don’t know anything about cars love to focus on 0-60 time, when the most important number is actually time around a track.
Ofcourse hardness is not everything, what's important will depend on you and what you are cutting and how you are, Toughness might be most important for me it's edge stability with pocket knives. Toughness is definitely considered However the most important is how sharp it gets, how well it stays sharp and how well it maintains.
Just got a cru carta manix xl love that knife
How do you feel about ZDP-189?
Good question about ZDP. It seem to have an incredible edge. Rockstead are making ultra premium knifes. I saw à video of cutting test on ropes and about 10 inches of paper and the result is unbelievable 💪👍🏻
I dont really like 154CM, because I like tough steels. I just cant understand why more makers dont use CPM 154. Its almost twice as tough as 154CM. Kershaw has been using it for years on their Launch series knives that arent really budget, but very affordable. Why wont more people use it?
Cruwear is my favorite all around
Aus 8 and 8cr best steel easy to sharpen save time to do a task ..premium steel suck waste my time to sharpen and my task to cut kadboard take a time to finish.
Edge retention isn’t too big of an issue, as long as the steel is relatively easy to sharpen. I like to sharpen my knives around 18 degrees/side with my trusty, cheap work sharp sharpener.
Can you recommend a ultra-premium steel for Arizona law enforcement knives? Due to our low humidity, we do not need corrosion resistance, but toughness and edge retention (wear resistance). Our cops use their knives for everything! - screwdrivers, cutting through fences, slicing seat belts from burn victims, et al.
We do not need a recommendation on a specific brand of knives - we will find a manufacturer once we learn which steel is ideal for Arizona LEOs. Can you make a recommendation?
Great video and I highly appreciate the information.
CPM Cru-Wear is my favorite! I absolutely love my Spyderco Manix 2 in Cru-Wear. I am yet to sharpen it!
I remember when 154CM was considered almost a supersteel. I'm old :(
Nice work
Amazingly thorough and informative video.
I knew this was going to be interesting, but once again you slammed it out of the park Jarred !
So much specific and to the point information...
Great job ! Thanks !
As far as a mid-grade steel goes I think boker Plus does a really good heat treatment job on their vg-10 and as far as in 690 goes I only have a couple of knives that use that steel and those are the real steel Luna boost with the titanium frame lock and fat carbon, the thing is the ground so thin that they just slice so damn well and it's a joy too use. To put it in context you can grab that short little blade which is under 3 in and actually flex that blade.
Boker plus is the 2nd worst ht in the industry next to lionsteel. Where have you been?
FYI you know there is an option to sort by low to high or vice versa in the spreadsheet?
Rex 45 takes a beautiful patina just like 4V & K390 etc. I much rather have one of those steel with a patina than a coating
My top 3 is cru-wear , 3v , n690
Lol, of the knives I own I have 3 that I carry in rotation. K390 endura, rex45 para2, cruwear millie. I like super crispy too.
I've got some great knives, and in the steels that Jared has mentioned, but the Stretch 2 in K390 just won't leave my pocket. Nor the Ladybug in K390 on my keychain.
Question? Do you think Microtech uses a lower HRC on their M390MK to keep it tough, since they're main use is for Tactical Manual Folders and Side Opening Autos and OTF Pocket Knives? :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
My top 3 steels in a pocket knife in no particular order, cts-xhp, k390, magnacut
19:07, 19:11, 19:49 EDGE RETENTION! Love it! :D
My favorite is 3V
This vid nailed it. 154 is the Everyman steel. K390 what can you say. It impresses everyone. Have to add my other favs. M4 m390, 110v.
It really depends on the use of the knife like you said. It would be nice to have a steel that could combine both toughness,edge retention and corrosion. But unfortunately we can't have the PERFECT steel blade for knives. There's always going to be give and go. Just like everything else. Phones,watches...etcetera we manufacture, production based on cost. There's always going to be something wrong with the item until we improve it. Then improve it again and again. We can't be satisfied for what we have. Sad.
YESS any Vanax knife I take to work is covered in micro chips. It’s my fav steel for EDC but isn’t great for anything even remotely hard use. Magnacut wins in that category. Being in NC corrosion resistance is v important for me.
i live in nc and corrosion resistance isn’t a huge deal for me, i regularly carry a cruwear PM2 and haven’t had problems so far. mine is dlc coated though.
@@acid6urns I have tons of trouble w corrosion haha. To be fair I’m in HVAC/refrigeration so it can get sweaty and wet at times. But even if I don’t oil my blades every few months some will rust sitting in the case. The coating makes a BIG difference especially the thick Spyderco coatings.
that's crazy.. K390 is also Cedric and Ada's favorite steel. makes sense
And ericaedc's. That's quite a group.
Loving Aeb-l from Tkell with my Raider 🤙🏽