M398 with a custom heat treat(64hrc) has lasted longer than anything I've tried(outside of the carbide kitchen knive from Kase Knives). I haven't tried s125v(sold my 1 knife without much use) or 15v but it beats out 10v class, s110v, s90v, Elmax at 65hrc, maxamet, zdp 189(you didn't mention that one Pete) or anything else I can think of. I know it's toughness is low but it's a knife made for cutting and at that it excels. At 0.007 bte it's not to bad to sharpen either, about s90v/good elmax or m390 and easier than s110v or maxamet in my experience.
Don't turn a hobby into work and loss sucks. Still don't enjoy playing video games. Bad to the bone gaming rig just collecting dust. Maybe today. Maybe.
14C28N is really underrated, I like it's excellent toughness and corrosion resistance, it still holds an edge decently well and can take a screaming sharp one real fast.
I agree. I've developed quite a respect for it; IMO it's one of the best all-around choice for a blade steel, and it doesn't come at supersteel prices.
I had a hunting knife in 14c28n, great stuff, I could touch it up on ceramic quick to keep it screaming sharp while I was processing big game and you had to work hard to chip it. I liked it enough to buy a Kershaw leek which I carried for a long time and still do once and a while.
@@poonbandit9924 Sandvik is an interesting company that does more science than any other cause it's a material development not just steel. But yes it's. It works well IMO also.
Indeed....proper heat treatment is KEY!!! One of the reasons that 14C28N got a 'bad rep' is that its very sensitive to being overheated and losing its temper that way!!! When Kershaw used to use a LOT of 14C28N the guys who were putting the belt sander edges on them were(MANY times) overheating the edge and killing the temper of the steel at the edge and once you got the knife in your hand, it COULD take a while to sharpen away the overheated, now poorly tempered steel and get back into GOOD 14C28N and get a GOOD edge on the blade!!! I collected Kershaws for 10+ years and EDC'd them and ran into this phenomenon many times...others did too and it was discussed, at times, on many forums and I read a post by some brilliant man who had posted on this phenomenon and I didn my own research and testing and he was RIGHT!!! I had a beautiful Kershaw that I wanted to EDC but the 14C28N just wasnt holding an edge for chit....so...i sharpened and sharpened and....wait a minute.....the steel is changing and getting HARDER and 0_o.....oi....got a great edge and it stayed sharp!!!! 14C28N edge retention issue figured out!!! I still rotate into my EDC an old, beat to hell, Bump in 14C28N
HEY! Your spreadsheet helped become more of a steel nerd. Thanks for making it. I really appreciate the different sharpeners and edge angles you included as well as the different averages and std devs. I still appreciate what you do, even it it was just babbling about low chromium v high vanadium trade-offs.
@@Duncan8er There's a link to Pete's collection of knife spreadsheets in the description for this video. I believe it's the link with the word "spreadsheets" in the URL.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I LOVED this video. When you give a long list of steels and compare them to each other it HELPS greatly to put them in perspective. It makes shopping so much easier. I'll watch it again for sure.
We as knife buyers/users/collectors & steel nerds are certainly spoiled these days. It's crazy how good these blade steels have become, and that we have so many options. It's a great time to be a knife person, and I love it so 😍
Thanks! so well done!! I know what sharp is as a re tired neurosurgical micro surgeon wouldn’t be unusual for me to have the scrub nurse change the scalpel blade two or three times
Got a Vanax blade on the way. It will be my first experience. I do like Magnacut quite a bit. Maybe my favorite, certainly top 5. One thing I noticed about Magnacut is how hair-splittingly sharp it can get, even on relatively thick blade stock. I got a Bark River in Magnacut that you can circumcize a gnat with.
Vanax and LC200N have better rust resistance than magnacut - as per Larrin Thomas himself (personal communication). That being said, Vanax is pricey, so LC200N will not fade out (yes Im making a bold prediction - we'll see, right?) And what of H1, probably the toughest of the 4 "rust proof"... but least in edge retention. This one will likely disappear. But I own all 4 and love this hobby!
@@DamionJR4923 - except maybe price. Maybe. It is hard to tell. I have seen models previously in 20CV that are now cheaper in Magnacut, the Hogue Dekka for example.
My current favorite steel is LC200N. Edge retention on par with S30V, pretty easy to sharpen, surprisingly tough, and literally doesn’t rust. Living next to coast and being around salt water, I think it’s damn near the perfect steel for me.
I got into neck knives. My first one would rust too easily just from my outdoor walks and sweating. Daily oiling and still got rust. So I got a Kydex sheath that fits the Spyderco H1 Dragonfly 2 to be used as a neck knife. Worked out great. Never took it off even for showering. Concealed super easily. Then I saw the Spyderco Subway Bowie in lc200n and got it because I still wanted a fixed blade for a neck knife and that fit the bill. H1 is nice but the lc200n from what I read and see so far, is such a nice steel for edge retention and NO rust.
I bought a Spyderco Waterway in LC200N for filleting fish around the coast. It's not as good as an actual filleting knife, its a slicer, but I can take the same knife spear fishing with me and use it to fillet later. Really nice steel.
Pete, thank you so much for the videos you've been making. Especially this one. I know these are your preferences but you're also experienced using them. Your videos are such a help.
It's so good to see you again. This is obviously not to pressure you into doing more knife stuff. Or anything you're not feeling at the time. I just always hope you can remember how many people enjoy and respect you......... regardless of topic, and at whatever pace you choose.
Is it such an all around good steel that it stole your dad? Or is s30 a good stepfather where your actual father might have left you with 440a or brought you up to something like s90? Honestly curious about your comment; I suppose I could have missed a touch-stone in the vid that sparked it... Regardless, I hope this comment finds you well. ✌🏼🤘🏼
N690 is just European VG10 for too much money. AEB-L was originally the steel used in replaceable shaving razor blades so it works best thin and polished edges. Glad to see you back on the daily upload grind. I wanna start a knife youtube channel since there are so few channels that focus on the rare or larger (4" blade folders) but living vicariously through you and Advanced knife bro will have to do.
I can never hear too much about the variety of knife steels out there. Add to that your practical experience in using these makes this video a keeper.👍👍
Never been more bored in my life. Ok. Everything else besides knives bores me even more. Love this guy and his efforts. Have to download his spread sheet.
On CCE we focus almost exclusively on budget knives, and your "2 steels" (you mentioned several actually), are pretty much exactly where I stand on the steels that I would never buy. For knife newbies the 8Cr13/14 types of steel, I would suggest, are indeed still acceptable, but they are at the bottom of the list of what is acceptable especially since there are a lot of better steels that don't cost any more and are very common. The end of the age of the 8CR13/14 will be gone in just a few years I would think.
Great perspectives on knife steels. I like how you discussed how budget steels have their place along with the benefits of the more expensive steels. You have a nice well-balanced understanding of the knife world. Thank you!
Spyderco Just had a new Reveal with BBB Heat treated 15V mules, a new mule in CPM T15 steel, and a new fixed blade in K390. That and the UK PK in magnacut. It looks like this year is going to be a steel Nerd’s delight.
@@ninemimesleft I want that one as well, I own too many Native 5’s to want another one. The Enuff 2 in K390 though, It’s taking a lot of will power to resist that one.
Nice rundown. Would have been helpful to have the steel listed on screen as it's being discussed, also the number of rope cuts, the brand of knife (and their reputation heat treating that steel), and HRC. As far as D2 rusting, I have 5 budget knives in it, and never had a rust problem. I haven't coated the blades. They are not heavily used though, and I do live in New Mexico. I don't think I will be buying anymore knives unless something really grabs me design wise, and is in a better steel like 14c28n or Magnacut perhaps.
I consider myself a little more than a novice. I’ve been sharpening knives as a hobby for about four years. I’ve recently became interested in videos about steel comparisons. My favorite steel in my level of knife collecting is S30v. I was happy to hear your impressions of it along with your frequent comparisons to it when talking about other steels. I just bought two Spyderco mini knives in k390. A new steel for me. I’m glad to hear steel gurus speak so highly of it. I feel like I accidentally made a really wise choice! I’m looking forward to getting my hands on Magnacut next.
I find s90v to be the perfect steel. Very tough, can get insanely sharp, holds an edge for a long time, very corrosion resistant, and relatively cheap($140 for a pm3)
Yeah, I dig it too, my experience with it being in Benchmades. I absolutely prefer it to the M390/20CV steels, only in corrosion resistance does it suffer compared to M390. It’s just as tough, not really any more difficult to sharpen, but holds an edge noticeably longer. It’s almost like a stainless K390 or 10V.
To prevent rust, coat your knife with either Eezox or BreakFree CLP. If you use it for food prep, consider the food-safe oil sold by Victorinox. Store the knife where air can flow and not in a sheath. A safe with a dehumidifier rod works best.
I've been extremely impressed with Magnacut. For a steel that was hyped over the moon it didn't seem possible that it would live up to said hype but it managed to. It's great that you can find it on fairly budget tier knives. 140 USD for a Hogue Deka with Magnacut, you cannot ask for a better EDC deal. Great steel you don't need to be afraid of beating on.
Good to see you're loving Magnacut. I'm wanting a Deka but I've been worried about the steel. Sounds too good to be true. I got suckered into buying a Spyderco Endura in ZDP-189 14-15 years ago that was out of my budget and it chipped all to hell and was nearly impossible to sharpen. Never had a problem with good old AUS-8 or 8Cr13MoV.
The AUS8 That was used in my 1982 Kershaw Kai Japan 1050 is absolutely amazing. It's also my favorite knife, I can get it razer sharp and skin a deer really quick with it. Old AUS8 is something.
154cm, cpm-154, s30v s35vn s45vn triplets, cpm-cruwear, cpm-m4 are by far my favorite steels. I haven't had much experience with Cpm-Magnacut yet, but if it's all its said to be it will be a great one as well.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your extensive experience, tempered by your humility and good humor. You are a treasure to knife weirdos!
Love these serious videos ! When I want to know about knife steels concerning use & sharpening I always re-watch your ranking videos. Must be extra rust - friendly down there. I live in high humidity southern U. S. & have no problems with D2 steel rusting. I do take care of my knives & make sure they are put away dry.
11:30 I'm not sure if you remember the Cudeman MT-5, the first knife I sent down for you to check out (and you had bought one when I was sending mine down)? Cudeman claimed an HRC of 60 on the Bohler N695 they used in those knives. I still use it every now and again. Lately, I've been using my Strongarm at night to dispatch cane toads. I don't mind if I drive the tip into the dirt when I'm euthanising a cane toad with extreme prejudice. It's a tougher steel and more forgiving when I abuse it. It's interesting how similar steels can perform differently, depending on the end-purpose.
440 C if heat treated properly will hold a good edge. Even the AUS 8 in my Rat 1 does pretty well when carving wood. Some super steels are stupid to sharpen. Just give me something serviceable and tough and I’m good. Thanks for the video.
YES this, but PLEASE realize 440C has a low grade and high grade dependant on manufacturer... ie some top shelf 440C have MUCH higher C, Co, Si, Mn contents then others !!
maybe you can do one on D2, DC53, Sleipner, Niolox, K110, and 154CM. edit: when i win the lottery you will be on my list. really great work - appreciated !
Thank you for taking your vast experience with these knife steels and distilling it down to this ranking. Gives us knife noob enthusiasts (who don't want to spend time researching) a better idea of what to throw away our money at! Thanks Pete!
This is a very nicely presented coverage of many varied steels. You very likely listed something for everyone. In the late seventies, D2 was the undisputed king, when you talked long run blanking dies. How times change, as technology marches on.
Oh boy, hands down this is the most comprehensive guide on steel types. One year ago I didn't know anything about knives and asked a friend to recommend me a nice EDC. He recommended a few and I ordered CS Ultimate Hunter. Later on I found out why I paid it so low :D it was replica. Fortunately my first knife (although a knock-off) lit the fire and I started reading and digging more and more. Soon got overwhelmed by the many types of blade shapes, grinds, locks and steel types. Why the hell one blade costs 100$ and another one - 500... Your channel helped me tremendously in understanding the basics. The information in this video is a gem! Easy ti understand. Now I know which steels to avoid, which will break my bank, and which steel I would like for my next knife. Looking for my first decent budget EDC to replace the fake Ultimate Hunter and stopped on Civivi Brazen in 14C28.
I had a commercial knife sharpening business. The top chefs knives were VG10 , most 5cr.They all worked well. Heat treat, geometry, edge maintenance. My favorite is a Sabatier in 1075.
I have a few cold steels in aus10a and I think it’s better than vg10 or even a few better rated steels like 154cm and n690. AUS 10 a is easy to sharpen, holds a good edge and the steel is tough as it comes!
Your knife videos are great. I think your reasoning are spot on. This combined with your love for knives, knife steel and a great amusing personality makes it great. You seem like a good guy. Have a fun weekend!
The steel Victorinox uses for Swiss Army knives is kind of soft, but I’ll say this for it: I’ve never seen a Victorinox pocket knife with even a speck of rust on it- even an old, obviously abused SAK.
SAKs are meant to be good quality tools, accessible to the masses, not for knife enthusiasts. The steel is fit for purpose. Sure they could go up a few notches but then so would the price. I own both super expensive japanese tamahagane steel knives and a bunch of SAKs...all serve their own purpose really well.
Ive never seen a lick of rust on a VG10 or SG2 kitchen knife either. Vg10 is 60-62hrc, SG2 is 62-64hrc. A swiss army knife is a joke. From the toothpick to the tweezer... i used mine to trim weed for dubies until the TSA saw it on my keyring and made me toss it in the trash. None of the 4 people watching wanted the swiss army knife even though i offered it to people before the bin!
K390 is it for me. I have 3 knives with this steel, one is a police 4 which I use as a machete, shovel, utility knife etc and it’s been taking about 3 years of abuse inside my house & out with no issues.
Long time subscriber, Infrequent commenter here. I appreciate the updated steel ‘rating’ list as newer knife steels such as MagnaCut has been introduced into the knife world - I look forward to your videos Pete. ✌️
I really liked this video! Informative, content covered all aspects of current steels available and your commentary flowed which made watching enjoyable. Imo, a perfect video! Thank you for all you do for the knife community!
well done finally im beginning to get it when it comes to steals I also have the TPROF RETIRED micro surgeon I’m glad you explained surgical steel. of course we’ve always known that.
Greetings from the other side of the globe and thanks for this video. I'm quite new to the hobby and this is exactly what I was looking for. It'll definitely help me to avoid being ripped off. I've watched quite a few of your videos and I love your practical approach focused on real usability not being jut the unboxing youtuber who always says 'This knife is really awesome'
Thanks so much Pete! Your list and the ones from Dr. Larrin (Mr. Magnacut) Thomas, are my reference lists for making the right steel choice on a particular fixed or folding blade purchase. Your rope cutting numbers, rust tests, and sharpening notes, are truly handy! Platinum standard!💯%
I have a small request. In future, when you're doing videos like this, could you put a note somewhere on screen that says what knife you're currently talking about? It makes it a lot easier to go back through and compare once we've already seen the whole thing. Also, I just want to say thanks for all the work you've done with the sessile rope tests. I've used them as the main resource when judging price to performance, and they've been invaluable in that. My favorite EDC knife is the Ritter/Hogue Mini-RSK with its Axis-style lock and 20CV blade. IMO it's definitely up there in terms of price to performance at $140, and it's thanks to your tests that I bought one in the first place E:Just an example of what I was talking about in the beginning, at 29:43 you're talking about Cruwear/3V/4V with B-roll from sessile tests, then the tier that pops up on screen is the previous one that tops out at S110V. This'd mean that if someone wants to see the part where you're talking about 3V, they'd have to scrub past this section, to see where it's listed visually, then skip back to get to the section they're looking for. Also, please don't take this as bellyaching, just looking to be constructive. Cheers!
They are coming out with new steels so fast these days,that I can hardley keep up.But as of now my favorites are M390,M4,ELMAX, AND S110V.I had a PM2 IN MAXMET and the tip broke very easily . I don't ever pry with a knife,but I was barely putting pressure on it and it snapped.I shit my paints.I paid almost $300 for a knife with 2 little pieces of g-10 and little steel blade.So I went on-line a nd bought a PM2 IN S110V and I love it.Got for $215 out the door,so I was happy and came razor sharp.So we will just have to see how it goes.I picked up a MICROTECH MANUAL STITCH in this M30MK.So it has been getting all my attention and money. But this new RAM LOCK IS SWEET.
Yeah, 440C wasn't bad, but S30V came on the scene more than 20 years ago (time flies!) and despite the latter's flaws, it was definitely an improvement on 440C. I recently got out my old Benchmade Nimravus. And I DO mean the old one. Mine is in M2, and it made me wonder if you've ever tested M2. Then they change the scale design and switched to 154CM. I consider S35VN to be the ground floor of the various supersteels.
Because you have spent hours of time invested in testing the cutting life of different types of steel blades that required a lot of time and work. You migtht like a suggestion on something I know about. It is a simple hardness testing set of files called SUBOSAN Japan-Hardness Tester File set (HRC40-HRC65 Set of 6). It works for testing steel hardness reasonably well for the cost. I use it when I want to check for HRC hardness. I use a magnfier to see if the file leaves a scratch on the mirror edge of a newly sharpen polished edge. It leaves no damage that you can see looking at the knife blade without high magnication. Any scratch it shows will polish out the next time you strop or sharpen the blade.🔪🔍 This is a book you might enjoy reading too. (Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry).
I’m Polish and The best knife steel in world is The Tatamovich 990i , I make this steel myself with secret formula including high carbon , molybdenum and the skin of 9 polish sausage, it has a Sam Rockwell of 98 and I cut through titanium rope in seconds, it make your mangocut look like toy , I’m fully qualified metallurgist, and have degree in science,physics,chemistry,nuclear engineering,electronics,quantum mechanics,and sociology, but here in UK where I live I work in sausage packing factory, I’m best knife make in world , like betman.
My Honeybadger in D2 lives in my truck and doesn't rust like that. Its been in there over a year and it snows during winter. No rust. I keep it in a pouch, so wonder if that makes a huge difference.
Depending on how much humidity it sees. Perhaps no moisture is sitting on the blade. If you have oil on the blade, that helps too. The finish of the blade can also help stave off corrosion too or promote it for example bead blasted steel.
I've never heard such a good description of knife steels as you just presented in this video. This is one for my playlist. Very informative and entertaining for a knife super nerd like me. Thank you sir🎉
Excellent video, very indepth and thoughtful approach. I'm still in the amateur category, but I am here to stay. I enjoy 14C28N because i'm practicing sharpening and you can get a pretty serious edge going fairly quickly. I will graduate to higher grade steels once I've mastered assembly, disassembly, sharpening and lubrication of my current batch of pocket knives.
For my money, the best knife steel available is 14C28N or AEB-L. I have never had a knife in either of these steels that doesn’t perform like a champ. I like CPM-3V, 5160, 80CrV2, 1095 from Esee or Tops, 1075 from Condor or LT Wright, or Cru-Wear for fixed blades (although one of my favorite folders is my Demko AD 20.5 in 3V) but for folders I almost always gravitate these days to 14C28N. I’m thrilled to see so many coming out these days.
Same same. It's not a super steel but it's a perfect steel for what most need. Run it hard for a thin kitchen knife and it'll be tough enough to not chip, and run it softer and it'll be tough as the 9 circles of hell. 5160 is the only one that could maybe top its toughness at equal hardness at 59 ish. 1095 is less great imo, usually not tough enough nor hard enough. 80CrV2 is a great everything carbon steel like 14c28n for stainless, but it's forgable.
Great video Pete, love your vids on ranking steels and knife company's. I made a playlist for them so I can use as a reference when knife shopping. It's very helpful and entertaining at the same time.
I am so glad I watched this. You reminded me to put garage door silicone spray on a few knives and multitools. The 1 knife I had to sand some rust off. It's Aus 8 steel. So far thats the only steel I have that rusted. My Leatherman even take longer to rust, but every since I started putting this stray on every 2 years, roughly, I haven't had no rust. My Victorinox are the only knives that I don't have to spray.
Great video! Lots of useful info. I've waited over two years for you to update your last steel ranking. I really appreciate the efforts that your putting in.
I enjoyed that, thanks Pete, and thanks for your exceptional dedication to your investigatory endeavors in exploring the many different varieties of steel and the multitude of aspects of them, crazy stuff! You definitely have a scientific vocation and empiricism is the name of the game in your methodology. Well done and keep on cutting cobber!
And also cataloguing all the empirical findings he got. Thanks to Pete I "moved up" to D2 and AR-RPM9 when I decided to "get back into the hobby" after about 6 years of hiatus. Couldn't be happier with my knives now. Last time I was way into knives, 8cr13mov was the only option on a budget, can you imagine my face when I realized those investigatory endeavors show that we're nearing about 80% of s30v performance in the budget realm?😅 Still have a couple of 8cr's here and there though, even bought one recently (the design's just so beautiful and comfortable that I don't mind it) - the ease of maintenance is just second nature after being into the hobby for so long
You are very knowledgeable, I can’t believe the number of steels put together now days. I my day 440c and then season the blades. I still have knives out of it and they hold an edge and most will shave, pocket knives. Sometimes to many choices can drive you away. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Keep it up.
My cheapest knife is the bear grylls scout folder and it has done quite a bit of cutting and never let me down. It doesn’t hold an edge forever but it’s really easy to sharpen. I’ll never sell it because my wife gave it to me for Christmas about 12 years ago. My favorite knife is my bark river fox river 2 fixed blade in 3V. I loved it so much I haven’t bought another knife since
Would love a fixed blade video variant as well. Your comments and experiences really solidifies my understanding of blade steels and informs me greatly with what next great steel I should venture into.
Really excellent and comprehensive review. In my opinion the time you’ve invested in content is NEXT LEVEL without deeply diving into the hard science of metallurgy, and putting most viewers in a coma. I’d love to hear your thoughts on Rex 121 if you’ve had some experience with it…, and thanks very much.
Ganzo does most of their knives in 440 c and they do a surprisingly great job on their heat treat and it punches WAY above its weight. especially considering many of their knives are $20-$25! As far as bang for your buck goes, They are absolutely the best value in the world currently. . Even their D2 knives are mostly sub $30! Many of the ganzos are better and have better action than knives 4-6x their cost. No longer are my main go to edc knives bench made or spydercos.. and bEst of all if I lose one or mess it up, I can just buy another.
Took me a while to dedicate 30+ minutes to a single video, but glad I did. Excellent summary and well thought out comments all around. One thought, differentiate BD1 from BD1N as there seems to be a significant difference, based on several reviews.
440B isn't so bad itself, very similar to 8cr/9cr or AUS8. I think the problem is that is that it tends to be used by older European and American makers who are behind the curve on heat treatment and grinds, whereas AUS8 is used by Japanese makers and 8cr/9cr by Chinese makers, so they tend to be better implemented.
@@acid6urnsyep, it's kinda funny. Something like 154cm or VG10 are a slightly better tier up for being higher carbon ingot steel. Or 14c28n for being a really good ingot steel with low carbide, but with way better performance than other low carbide stainless.
I have that same Gerber Bear Grylls folder, it sits next to my shower for if/when I need to scrape dirt, rust, paint, etc. off of something. My current EDC knives are a Pro-Tech TR3 exclusive in CruWear and a Bradford Guardian 3 in M390.
Just ordered a Jesper Voxnaes designed MKM Eclipse and I'm so excited to get it! It comes with the Magnacut steel! Great video! Very informative and enjoyable to sit back and relax to. Thanks!
Great video. This classifies them what id say quite acurately but gives good examples and more practical use as opposed to just reading off the rockwell hardness
Seeing a video you've made always makes my day, Pete. I'll be as excited if/when you review one of the Spyderco BBB 15v sprints as I will be if I manage to snag one myself. My own sharpening experience with maxamet is quite different than yours- I have found sharpening it (gasp) pleasant, but I have only attempted it with diamond abrasives. I've also been exposed to all the horror stories surrounding maxamet and the sharpening thereof, so I was a bit apprehensive with my N5 lightweight when it came to resharpening it but it took a keen edge much more easily than I had expected it to. I like that spyderco selected grey handles for their maxamet knives, it matches the patina quite nicely. I love the k390 stretch 2. I have a definite fondness for non-stainless high carbon tool steels. You are absolutely right about the proliferation of *excellent* knife steels. To my knowledge, 440C was the first steel developed specifically as a blade steel, and was high end for most of the 20th century. I agree that complaining that a knife is S35VN is a testament to how fortunate we are that the steel industry is robust and specialized enough that what would have (and is still if you consider the tonnage of structural steel manufactured annually) been considered an extremely niche market steel is in sufficient supply that it loses it's lustre to nerds like us. I've also been surprised at the amount of knives being released in M390/20CV/204P recently, and also think it will be interesting to see which alloy becomes "the new 440C" I'm also thinking it will most likely be magnacut. I got my dad a hogue deka 2 in magnacut and he loves it. I'm lukewarm on magnacut; I don't place much value on stainlessness and there are other steels that do everything else magnacut does, but better.
Personal preferences: 3v for outdoor fixed blades. Magnacut or vanax for daily pocket knives. S45vn is my pick for more availability and lower cost, if you can't get your hands on magnacut or vanax.
I have a Herman Ishtar in M398 that I don’t know if I will ever need to sharpen, it arrived from Polish Custom knives almost as sharp as a Rockstead! But, I just received the new Two Sun in M398 this past week. It arrived with a terrible edge, half the edge still had a burr. So I put it on my Worksharp with my Venev Cerberus Dog Series Dual Side Diamond stones and it sharpened about like M390 or so. I could tell it wasn’t too hard. It took a razor sharp edge and now I will see how long it last. But being a sort of heavy knife I probably won’t carry it much more than I carry the Herman.
I love these videos. Always curious to hear the perspective of someone who actually uses their knives, because I certainly do not have your skills. Also loved the double tracked Elmax bit. Made me laugh. Probably not intentional, but that’s what makes it funny.
After being a knife snob for years I realized none of the steels mattered when you actually use your knives like I do. I sold my entire collection off (except 4 BMs and a spyderco shamen) and buy the cheap BM knock offs...now I don't give a crap if I lose them, scratch them, chip the edge or just break them. It's like weighs been lifted off my shoulders.
theres a fun thought experiment that goes a bit like “if someone changed all your blades to vg10 without you being able to physically notice, how soon would you notice from usual wear and tear”. Even I would be a while I would think outside of cuttin rope ☺️
That first comment made me chuckle. I'm sitting behind my Edge pro apex 4 sharpening my Bark river Gunny in 3V, yep it's nice to watch your videos in the background!
As the bloke from " Sharpens Best " RUclips Channel says " Thin means sharp, Sharp means thin " If you have sharpened a blade edge to a mirror finish razor sharp edge, It`s going to be so thin it to be quite easy to blunt or chip that edge, The practice among many is to have a dedicated fine sharp edge knife for certain tasks, And another blade either on the same handle or another knife that has a more wider angle edge for general use, All of the steels are in this video are good quality, As to rust, Well they are always a sign of neglect or you have too many knives to look after
21:40 I'm happy with my large Crooked River in S30V. This reminds me, I need to strip it and clean it again. Good steel but the knife collects some crud in vital parts.
Steels to pursue feel free to add more below and I will try my best)
15V (hoping to nab a BBB PM2)
10V (only ever had one example)
M398
Terravantium
CPM REX T15 mule team coming out soon!
M398 with a custom heat treat(64hrc) has lasted longer than anything I've tried(outside of the carbide kitchen knive from Kase Knives). I haven't tried s125v(sold my 1 knife without much use) or 15v but it beats out 10v class, s110v, s90v, Elmax at 65hrc, maxamet, zdp 189(you didn't mention that one Pete) or anything else I can think of. I know it's toughness is low but it's a knife made for cutting and at that it excels. At 0.007 bte it's not to bad to sharpen either, about s90v/good elmax or m390 and easier than s110v or maxamet in my experience.
If you want me to send you a 15v Manix I’d be glad to do so.
I’m very excited to see your take on 15V. Especially given that spyderco did a collaboration on the heat treat.
BBB Rex 121 / Maxamet would be interesting.
I’m really excited that you’re back into knives again. Love seeing these daily uploads coming at us. Awesome!
Don't turn a hobby into work and loss sucks.
Still don't enjoy playing video games. Bad to the bone gaming rig just collecting dust. Maybe today. Maybe.
14C28N is really underrated, I like it's excellent toughness and corrosion resistance, it still holds an edge decently well and can take a screaming sharp one real fast.
I agree. I've developed quite a respect for it; IMO it's one of the best all-around choice for a blade steel, and it doesn't come at supersteel prices.
It is. Sandvik is one of the more unique companies that do things most don't
I had a hunting knife in 14c28n, great stuff, I could touch it up on ceramic quick to keep it screaming sharp while I was processing big game and you had to work hard to chip it. I liked it enough to buy a Kershaw leek which I carried for a long time and still do once and a while.
@@poonbandit9924 Sandvik is an interesting company that does more science than any other cause it's a material development not just steel. But yes it's. It works well IMO also.
Indeed....proper heat treatment is KEY!!!
One of the reasons that 14C28N got a 'bad rep' is that its very sensitive to being overheated and losing its temper that way!!! When Kershaw used to use a LOT of 14C28N the guys who were putting the belt sander edges on them were(MANY times) overheating the edge and killing the temper of the steel at the edge and once you got the knife in your hand, it COULD take a while to sharpen away the overheated, now poorly tempered steel and get back into GOOD 14C28N and get a GOOD edge on the blade!!! I collected Kershaws for 10+ years and EDC'd them and ran into this phenomenon many times...others did too and it was discussed, at times, on many forums and I read a post by some brilliant man who had posted on this phenomenon and I didn my own research and testing and he was RIGHT!!! I had a beautiful Kershaw that I wanted to EDC but the 14C28N just wasnt holding an edge for chit....so...i sharpened and sharpened and....wait a minute.....the steel is changing and getting HARDER and 0_o.....oi....got a great edge and it stayed sharp!!!! 14C28N edge retention issue figured out!!! I still rotate into my EDC an old, beat to hell, Bump in 14C28N
HEY! Your spreadsheet helped become more of a steel nerd. Thanks for making it. I really appreciate the different sharpeners and edge angles you included as well as the different averages and std devs. I still appreciate what you do, even it it was just babbling about low chromium v high vanadium trade-offs.
david the patron saint of steel data made that, hes an excel whiz
Increasing the nerd quotient worldwide!
Where can a copy of the spreadsheet be obtained?
@@Duncan8er There's a link to Pete's collection of knife spreadsheets in the description for this video. I believe it's the link with the word "spreadsheets" in the URL.
Gotta Say, I had the same experience.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
I LOVED this video. When you give a long list of steels and compare them to each other it HELPS greatly to put them in perspective. It makes shopping so much easier. I'll watch it again for sure.
We as knife buyers/users/collectors & steel nerds are certainly spoiled these days. It's crazy how good these blade steels have become, and that we have so many options. It's a great time to be a knife person, and I love it so 😍
Thanks! so well done!!
I know what sharp is as a re
tired neurosurgical micro surgeon
wouldn’t be unusual for me to have the scrub nurse change the scalpel blade two or three times
Got a Vanax blade on the way. It will be my first experience. I do like Magnacut quite a bit. Maybe my favorite, certainly top 5. One thing I noticed about Magnacut is how hair-splittingly sharp it can get, even on relatively thick blade stock. I got a Bark River in Magnacut that you can circumcize a gnat with.
Vanax is incredible, but unfortunately I think MagnaCut is going to suppress it's availability in the future.
@@tunahxushi4669 I love LC200N never tried Vanex but LC200N will also become obsolete with magnacut
I grew up with gnats, please castrate them instead.
Vanax and LC200N have better rust resistance than magnacut - as per Larrin Thomas himself (personal communication). That being said, Vanax is pricey, so LC200N will not fade out (yes Im making a bold prediction - we'll see, right?) And what of H1, probably the toughest of the 4 "rust proof"... but least in edge retention. This one will likely disappear. But I own all 4 and love this hobby!
@@DamionJR4923 - except maybe price. Maybe. It is hard to tell. I have seen models previously in 20CV that are now cheaper in Magnacut, the Hogue Dekka for example.
My current favorite steel is LC200N. Edge retention on par with S30V, pretty easy to sharpen, surprisingly tough, and literally doesn’t rust. Living next to coast and being around salt water, I think it’s damn near the perfect steel for me.
I got into neck knives. My first one would rust too easily just from my outdoor walks and sweating. Daily oiling and still got rust. So I got a Kydex sheath that fits the Spyderco H1 Dragonfly 2 to be used as a neck knife. Worked out great. Never took it off even for showering. Concealed super easily. Then I saw the Spyderco Subway Bowie in lc200n and got it because I still wanted a fixed blade for a neck knife and that fit the bill. H1 is nice but the lc200n from what I read and see so far, is such a nice steel for edge retention and NO rust.
Excited to hear what you think about Magnacut
You might want to check out Magnacut.
I bought a Spyderco Waterway in LC200N for filleting fish around the coast. It's not as good as an actual filleting knife, its a slicer, but I can take the same knife spear fishing with me and use it to fillet later. Really nice steel.
Pete, thank you so much for the videos you've been making. Especially this one. I know these are your preferences but you're also experienced using them. Your videos are such a help.
It's so good to see you again. This is obviously not to pressure you into doing more knife stuff. Or anything you're not feeling at the time. I just always hope you can remember how many people enjoy and respect you......... regardless of topic, and at whatever pace you choose.
I've enjoyed the S30V in my Osborne 940. It's just been a really good all-around steel, and my dad left when I was 3.
Is it such an all around good steel that it stole your dad?
Or is s30 a good stepfather where your actual father might have left you with 440a or brought you up to something like s90?
Honestly curious about your comment; I suppose I could have missed a touch-stone in the vid that sparked it...
Regardless, I hope this comment finds you well.
✌🏼🤘🏼
My dad went to get milk. I also enjoy s30v.
My dad went out for a pk of smokes. My EDC is a Spyderco Kapara With S30V. 😆
@raletky :: stands up ::
I am Sparticus!
(Translates to- I like s30 as well)
N690 is just European VG10 for too much money.
AEB-L was originally the steel used in replaceable shaving razor blades so it works best thin and polished edges.
Glad to see you back on the daily upload grind. I wanna start a knife youtube channel since there are so few channels that focus on the rare or larger (4" blade folders) but living vicariously through you and Advanced knife bro will have to do.
I can never hear too much about the variety of knife steels out there. Add to that your practical experience in using these makes this video a keeper.👍👍
I will always watch these as soon as I'm able. For what it's worth, I really appreciate them and I'm glad I can enjoy your work 👍
Never been more bored in my life. Ok. Everything else besides knives bores me even more. Love this guy and his efforts. Have to download his spread sheet.
On CCE we focus almost exclusively on budget knives, and your "2 steels" (you mentioned several actually), are pretty much exactly where I stand on the steels that I would never buy. For knife newbies the 8Cr13/14 types of steel, I would suggest, are indeed still acceptable, but they are at the bottom of the list of what is acceptable especially since there are a lot of better steels that don't cost any more and are very common. The end of the age of the 8CR13/14 will be gone in just a few years I would think.
Great perspectives on knife steels. I like how you discussed how budget steels have their place along with the benefits of the more expensive steels. You have a nice well-balanced understanding of the knife world. Thank you!
Spyderco Just had a new Reveal with BBB Heat treated 15V mules, a new mule in CPM T15 steel, and a new fixed blade in K390. That and the UK PK in magnacut. It looks like this year is going to be a steel Nerd’s delight.
I'm waiting for that manix lw in magnacut
@@ninemimesleft I want that one as well, I own too many Native 5’s to want another one. The Enuff 2 in K390 though, It’s taking a lot of will power to resist that one.
Nice rundown. Would have been helpful to have the steel listed on screen as it's being discussed, also the number of rope cuts, the brand of knife (and their reputation heat treating that steel), and HRC. As far as D2 rusting, I have 5 budget knives in it, and never had a rust problem. I haven't coated the blades. They are not heavily used though, and I do live in New Mexico. I don't think I will be buying anymore knives unless something really grabs me design wise, and is in a better steel like 14c28n or Magnacut perhaps.
You are making my week with the content.
I consider myself a little more than a novice. I’ve been sharpening knives as a hobby for about four years. I’ve recently became interested in videos about steel comparisons. My favorite steel in my level of knife collecting is S30v. I was happy to hear your impressions of it along with your frequent comparisons to it when talking about other steels. I just bought two Spyderco mini knives in k390. A new steel for me. I’m glad to hear steel gurus speak so highly of it. I feel like I accidentally made a really wise choice! I’m looking forward to getting my hands on Magnacut next.
I find s90v to be the perfect steel. Very tough, can get insanely sharp, holds an edge for a long time, very corrosion resistant, and relatively cheap($140 for a pm3)
What I have found with S90V is when the blade FEELS not sharp , it will still cut !
Yeah, I dig it too, my experience with it being in Benchmades. I absolutely prefer it to the M390/20CV steels, only in corrosion resistance does it suffer compared to M390. It’s just as tough, not really any more difficult to sharpen, but holds an edge noticeably longer. It’s almost like a stainless K390 or 10V.
To prevent rust, coat your knife with either Eezox or BreakFree CLP. If you use it for food prep, consider the food-safe oil sold by Victorinox.
Store the knife where air can flow and not in a sheath. A safe with a dehumidifier rod works best.
I've been extremely impressed with Magnacut. For a steel that was hyped over the moon it didn't seem possible that it would live up to said hype but it managed to. It's great that you can find it on fairly budget tier knives. 140 USD for a Hogue Deka with Magnacut, you cannot ask for a better EDC deal. Great steel you don't need to be afraid of beating on.
Good to see you're loving Magnacut. I'm wanting a Deka but I've been worried about the steel. Sounds too good to be true. I got suckered into buying a Spyderco Endura in ZDP-189 14-15 years ago that was out of my budget and it chipped all to hell and was nearly impossible to sharpen. Never had a problem with good old AUS-8 or 8Cr13MoV.
@@RyanWaldroopAUS-8 is a sleeper for sure. Love the feel that steel takes especially on a lower grit
I'm LOVING the deka in magnacut... It addressed all my issues with the bugout.
And now the Kershaw bel air for like $140
9:12 The sentence, "it draws the user's experience on the face of the blade," is oddly poetic. Now, where's my mustache comb and typewriter?
The AUS8 That was used in my 1982 Kershaw Kai Japan 1050 is absolutely amazing. It's also my favorite knife, I can get it razer sharp and skin a deer really quick with it. Old AUS8 is something.
154cm, cpm-154, s30v s35vn s45vn triplets, cpm-cruwear, cpm-m4 are by far my favorite steels. I haven't had much experience with Cpm-Magnacut yet, but if it's all its said to be it will be a great one as well.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your extensive experience, tempered by your humility and good humor. You are a treasure to knife weirdos!
Love these serious videos ! When I want to know about knife steels concerning use & sharpening I always re-watch your ranking videos. Must be extra rust - friendly down there. I live in high humidity southern U. S. & have no problems with D2 steel rusting. I do take care of my knives & make sure they are put away dry.
11:30 I'm not sure if you remember the Cudeman MT-5, the first knife I sent down for you to check out (and you had bought one when I was sending mine down)? Cudeman claimed an HRC of 60 on the Bohler N695 they used in those knives. I still use it every now and again. Lately, I've been using my Strongarm at night to dispatch cane toads. I don't mind if I drive the tip into the dirt when I'm euthanising a cane toad with extreme prejudice. It's a tougher steel and more forgiving when I abuse it. It's interesting how similar steels can perform differently, depending on the end-purpose.
440 C if heat treated properly will hold a good edge. Even the AUS 8 in my Rat 1 does pretty well when carving wood. Some super steels are stupid to sharpen. Just give me something serviceable and tough and I’m good. Thanks for the video.
YES this, but PLEASE realize 440C has a low grade and high grade dependant on manufacturer... ie some top shelf 440C have MUCH higher C, Co, Si, Mn contents then others !!
maybe you can do one on D2, DC53, Sleipner, Niolox, K110, and 154CM.
edit: when i win the lottery you will be on my list. really great work - appreciated !
Your channel has consistently been my favorite knife related channel on RUclips, Keep up the great work!! Can’t wait to see more!
Thank you for taking your vast experience with these knife steels and distilling it down to this ranking. Gives us knife noob enthusiasts (who don't want to spend time researching) a better idea of what to throw away our money at! Thanks Pete!
This is a very nicely presented coverage of many varied steels. You very likely listed something for everyone. In the late seventies, D2 was the undisputed king, when you talked long run blanking dies. How times change, as technology marches on.
Oh boy, hands down this is the most comprehensive guide on steel types.
One year ago I didn't know anything about knives and asked a friend to recommend me a nice EDC. He recommended a few and I ordered CS Ultimate Hunter. Later on I found out why I paid it so low :D it was replica. Fortunately my first knife (although a knock-off) lit the fire and I started reading and digging more and more. Soon got overwhelmed by the many types of blade shapes, grinds, locks and steel types. Why the hell one blade costs 100$ and another one - 500...
Your channel helped me tremendously in understanding the basics. The information in this video is a gem! Easy ti understand.
Now I know which steels to avoid, which will break my bank, and which steel I would like for my next knife.
Looking for my first decent budget EDC to replace the fake Ultimate Hunter and stopped on Civivi Brazen in 14C28.
I store my knives with the silica gel packets to prevent rust, it seems to have helped a lot!
I had a commercial knife sharpening business. The top chefs knives were VG10 , most 5cr.They all worked well. Heat treat, geometry, edge maintenance. My favorite is a Sabatier in 1075.
thanks pete really enjoyed,appreciate your taking the time.atb paddy
I have a few cold steels in aus10a and I think it’s better than vg10 or even a few better rated steels like 154cm and n690. AUS 10 a is easy to sharpen, holds a good edge and the steel is tough as it comes!
Absolutely same for me. Strops back decent
32:40 I still have my Delica in ZDP189, with British racing Green handles/scales. I bought it during my short foray into steel nerdism.
Just love your videos. Nice, clean, funny AND TRUTHFULL. Keep doing what you do.
The Tough Lite in AUS-8 works great for me at work. Never bad an issue with rust but I oil and wipe down.
Your knife videos are great. I think your reasoning are spot on. This combined with your love for knives, knife steel and a great amusing personality makes it great. You seem like a good guy. Have a fun weekend!
Good rundown... 20CV has taken the spot as my favorite edc knife steel. Just an all around great steel.
The steel Victorinox uses for Swiss Army knives is kind of soft, but I’ll say this for it: I’ve never seen a Victorinox pocket knife with even a speck of rust on it- even an old, obviously abused SAK.
Its also Super tough! Ive never had a danaged or broken tool on my saks. When on my Lethermans,I had both rust issues and broken or bent tools.
It’s possible. I have one laying in my bathroom. Just the nail nicks and a little spot. After eight years.
Yup heaps of chrome in them
SAKs are meant to be good quality tools, accessible to the masses, not for knife enthusiasts. The steel is fit for purpose. Sure they could go up a few notches but then so would the price. I own both super expensive japanese tamahagane steel knives and a bunch of SAKs...all serve their own purpose really well.
Ive never seen a lick of rust on a VG10 or SG2 kitchen knife either. Vg10 is 60-62hrc, SG2 is 62-64hrc.
A swiss army knife is a joke. From the toothpick to the tweezer... i used mine to trim weed for dubies until the TSA saw it on my keyring and made me toss it in the trash. None of the 4 people watching wanted the swiss army knife even though i offered it to people before the bin!
K390 is it for me. I have 3 knives with this steel, one is a police 4 which I use as a machete, shovel, utility knife etc and it’s been taking about 3 years of abuse inside my house & out with no issues.
Well,,, that was easily about the best break down comparisons of different knife steels I've watched.
Long time subscriber, Infrequent commenter here. I appreciate the updated steel ‘rating’ list as newer knife steels such as MagnaCut has been introduced into the knife world - I look forward to your videos Pete. ✌️
Your list convinced me to pick up the new CPM-SPY27 mule from Spyderco $60 USD. Thanks again for your informative and entertaining videos!
I really liked this video! Informative, content covered all aspects of current steels available and your commentary flowed which made watching enjoyable. Imo, a perfect video! Thank you for all you do for the knife community!
well done finally im beginning to get it when it comes to steals I also have the TPROF RETIRED micro surgeon I’m glad you explained surgical steel. of course we’ve always known that.
Greetings from the other side of the globe and thanks for this video.
I'm quite new to the hobby and this is exactly what I was looking for. It'll definitely help me to avoid being ripped off.
I've watched quite a few of your videos and I love your practical approach focused on real usability not being jut the unboxing youtuber who always says 'This knife is really awesome'
15V Shaman and PM2 sprint runs announced for 2023. Hopefully you'll have a better chance to get your hands on some 15V.
Thanks so much Pete!
Your list and the ones from Dr. Larrin (Mr. Magnacut) Thomas, are my reference lists for making the right steel choice on a particular fixed or folding blade purchase.
Your rope cutting numbers, rust tests, and sharpening notes, are truly handy!
Platinum standard!💯%
I have a small request. In future, when you're doing videos like this, could you put a note somewhere on screen that says what knife you're currently talking about? It makes it a lot easier to go back through and compare once we've already seen the whole thing.
Also, I just want to say thanks for all the work you've done with the sessile rope tests. I've used them as the main resource when judging price to performance, and they've been invaluable in that. My favorite EDC knife is the Ritter/Hogue Mini-RSK with its Axis-style lock and 20CV blade. IMO it's definitely up there in terms of price to performance at $140, and it's thanks to your tests that I bought one in the first place
E:Just an example of what I was talking about in the beginning, at 29:43 you're talking about Cruwear/3V/4V with B-roll from sessile tests, then the tier that pops up on screen is the previous one that tops out at S110V. This'd mean that if someone wants to see the part where you're talking about 3V, they'd have to scrub past this section, to see where it's listed visually, then skip back to get to the section they're looking for. Also, please don't take this as bellyaching, just looking to be constructive. Cheers!
They are coming out with new steels so fast these days,that I can hardley keep up.But as of now my favorites are M390,M4,ELMAX, AND S110V.I had a PM2 IN MAXMET and the tip broke very easily . I don't ever pry with a knife,but I was barely putting pressure on it and it snapped.I shit my paints.I paid almost $300 for a knife with 2 little pieces of g-10 and little steel blade.So I went on-line a nd bought a PM2 IN S110V and I love it.Got for $215 out the door,so I was happy and came razor sharp.So we will just have to see how it goes.I picked up a MICROTECH MANUAL STITCH in this M30MK.So it has been getting all my attention and money. But this new RAM LOCK IS SWEET.
Yeah, 440C wasn't bad, but S30V came on the scene more than 20 years ago (time flies!) and despite the latter's flaws, it was definitely an improvement on 440C. I recently got out my old Benchmade Nimravus. And I DO mean the old one. Mine is in M2, and it made me wonder if you've ever tested M2. Then they change the scale design and switched to 154CM.
I consider S35VN to be the ground floor of the various supersteels.
Hey there, hope you're doing well! Happy you're making content again
Because you have spent hours of time invested in testing the cutting life of different types of steel blades that required a lot of time and work. You migtht like a suggestion on something I know about. It is a simple hardness testing set of files called SUBOSAN Japan-Hardness Tester File set (HRC40-HRC65 Set of 6). It works for testing steel hardness reasonably well for the cost. I use it when I want to check for HRC hardness.
I use a magnfier to see if the file leaves a scratch on the mirror edge of a newly sharpen polished edge. It leaves no damage that you can see looking at the knife blade without high magnication. Any scratch it shows will polish out the next time you strop or sharpen the blade.🔪🔍
This is a book you might enjoy reading too.
(Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry).
I’m Polish and The best knife steel in world is The Tatamovich 990i , I make this steel myself with secret formula including high carbon , molybdenum and the skin of 9 polish sausage, it has a Sam Rockwell of 98 and I cut through titanium rope in seconds, it make your mangocut look like toy , I’m fully qualified metallurgist, and have degree in science,physics,chemistry,nuclear engineering,electronics,quantum mechanics,and sociology, but here in UK where I live I work in sausage packing factory, I’m best knife make in world , like betman.
Can you make me a knife? Only if you would, exchange the polish sausage for bacon? :)))))))))))
Can't argue with a Sam Rockwell of 98
And very modest I see👏🏻
Great breakdown, Pete. Greatly appreciated! Have a great weekend over there.
My Honeybadger in D2 lives in my truck and doesn't rust like that. Its been in there over a year and it snows during winter. No rust. I keep it in a pouch, so wonder if that makes a huge difference.
Depending on how much humidity it sees. Perhaps no moisture is sitting on the blade. If you have oil on the blade, that helps too. The finish of the blade can also help stave off corrosion too or promote it for example bead blasted steel.
Love this. You singlehandedly got me into knife steels and it's been so fun.
Was just thinking back to your tier ranking vid yesterday. What serendipity!
I've never heard such a good description of knife steels as you just presented in this video. This is one for my playlist. Very informative and entertaining for a knife super nerd like me. Thank you sir🎉
Excellent video, very indepth and thoughtful approach. I'm still in the amateur category, but I am here to stay. I enjoy 14C28N because i'm practicing sharpening and you can get a pretty serious edge going fairly quickly. I will graduate to higher grade steels once I've mastered assembly, disassembly, sharpening and lubrication of my current batch of pocket knives.
Spyderco, I hope you're listening! That suggestion on Spy27 is spot on.
I love the channel. Much respect to your wrists.
For my money, the best knife steel available is 14C28N or AEB-L. I have never had a knife in either of these steels that doesn’t perform like a champ. I like CPM-3V, 5160, 80CrV2, 1095 from Esee or Tops, 1075 from Condor or LT Wright, or Cru-Wear for fixed blades (although one of my favorite folders is my Demko AD 20.5 in 3V) but for folders I almost always gravitate these days to 14C28N. I’m thrilled to see so many coming out these days.
Same same. It's not a super steel but it's a perfect steel for what most need. Run it hard for a thin kitchen knife and it'll be tough enough to not chip, and run it softer and it'll be tough as the 9 circles of hell. 5160 is the only one that could maybe top its toughness at equal hardness at 59 ish. 1095 is less great imo, usually not tough enough nor hard enough. 80CrV2 is a great everything carbon steel like 14c28n for stainless, but it's forgable.
Great video Pete, love your vids on ranking steels and knife company's. I made a playlist for them so I can use as a reference when knife shopping. It's very helpful and entertaining at the same time.
I am so glad I watched this. You reminded me to put garage door silicone spray on a few knives and multitools. The 1 knife I had to sand some rust off. It's Aus 8 steel. So far thats the only steel I have that rusted. My Leatherman even take longer to rust, but every since I started putting this stray on every 2 years, roughly, I haven't had no rust. My Victorinox are the only knives that I don't have to spray.
Goddammit, I would wish the traditional knives would be made in those high end steels, that take a patina. A GEC in K390 🤩❤
Like a Yellow Rose in k390. Damn. I'm dreaming right now🤗
Great video! Lots of useful info. I've waited over two years for you to update your last steel ranking. I really appreciate the efforts that your putting in.
I enjoyed that, thanks Pete, and thanks for your exceptional dedication to your investigatory endeavors in exploring the many different varieties of steel and the multitude of aspects of them, crazy stuff!
You definitely have a scientific vocation and empiricism is the name of the game in your methodology.
Well done and keep on cutting cobber!
And also cataloguing all the empirical findings he got. Thanks to Pete I "moved up" to D2 and AR-RPM9 when I decided to "get back into the hobby" after about 6 years of hiatus. Couldn't be happier with my knives now. Last time I was way into knives, 8cr13mov was the only option on a budget, can you imagine my face when I realized those investigatory endeavors show that we're nearing about 80% of s30v performance in the budget realm?😅
Still have a couple of 8cr's here and there though, even bought one recently (the design's just so beautiful and comfortable that I don't mind it) - the ease of maintenance is just second nature after being into the hobby for so long
You are very knowledgeable, I can’t believe the number of steels put together now days. I my day 440c and then season the blades. I still have knives out of it and they hold an edge and most will shave, pocket knives. Sometimes to many choices can drive you away. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Keep it up.
My cheapest knife is the bear grylls scout folder and it has done quite a bit of cutting and never let me down. It doesn’t hold an edge forever but it’s really easy to sharpen. I’ll never sell it because my wife gave it to me for Christmas about 12 years ago. My favorite knife is my bark river fox river 2 fixed blade in 3V. I loved it so much I haven’t bought another knife since
Would love a fixed blade video variant as well.
Your comments and experiences really solidifies my understanding of blade steels and informs me greatly with what next great steel I should venture into.
You and others have driven many improvements to knives over the years. Much appreciated
I have a rat in d2 and it's been on many hunting/fishing trips hicks and camp outs with all types of weather. never had a problem with it rusting.
Really excellent and comprehensive review. In my opinion the time you’ve invested in content is NEXT LEVEL without deeply diving into the hard science of metallurgy, and putting most viewers in a coma.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on Rex 121 if you’ve had some experience with it…, and thanks very much.
Thanks Pete, that's a nice "breakdown" for these steels
Ganzo does most of their knives in 440 c and they do a surprisingly great job on their heat treat and it punches WAY above its weight. especially considering many of their knives are $20-$25! As far as bang for your buck goes, They are absolutely the best value in the world currently. . Even their D2 knives are mostly sub $30! Many of the ganzos are better and have better action than knives 4-6x their cost. No longer are my main go to edc knives bench made or spydercos.. and bEst of all if I lose one or mess it up, I can just buy another.
Took me a while to dedicate 30+ minutes to a single video, but glad I did. Excellent summary and well thought out comments all around. One thought, differentiate BD1 from BD1N as there seems to be a significant difference, based on several reviews.
440B isn't so bad itself, very similar to 8cr/9cr or AUS8. I think the problem is that is that it tends to be used by older European and American makers who are behind the curve on heat treatment and grinds, whereas AUS8 is used by Japanese makers and 8cr/9cr by Chinese makers, so they tend to be better implemented.
9cr is literally an exact chemical equivalent of 440c
@@acid6urnsyep, it's kinda funny. Something like 154cm or VG10 are a slightly better tier up for being higher carbon ingot steel. Or 14c28n for being a really good ingot steel with low carbide, but with way better performance than other low carbide stainless.
I have that same Gerber Bear Grylls folder, it sits next to my shower for if/when I need to scrape dirt, rust, paint, etc. off of something.
My current EDC knives are a Pro-Tech TR3 exclusive in CruWear and a Bradford Guardian 3 in M390.
Just ordered a Jesper Voxnaes designed MKM Eclipse and I'm so excited to get it! It comes with the Magnacut steel! Great video! Very informative and enjoyable to sit back and relax to. Thanks!
Great video. This classifies them what id say quite acurately but gives good examples and more practical use as opposed to just reading off the rockwell hardness
I am almost always sharpening while I run your movies. Thank you so so much for all of your hard work
Great video! The green screen showing up on the green knives was cracking me up 🤣
Seeing a video you've made always makes my day, Pete. I'll be as excited if/when you review one of the Spyderco BBB 15v sprints as I will be if I manage to snag one myself.
My own sharpening experience with maxamet is quite different than yours- I have found sharpening it (gasp) pleasant, but I have only attempted it with diamond abrasives. I've also been exposed to all the horror stories surrounding maxamet and the sharpening thereof, so I was a bit apprehensive with my N5 lightweight when it came to resharpening it but it took a keen edge much more easily than I had expected it to. I like that spyderco selected grey handles for their maxamet knives, it matches the patina quite nicely.
I love the k390 stretch 2. I have a definite fondness for non-stainless high carbon tool steels.
You are absolutely right about the proliferation of *excellent* knife steels.
To my knowledge, 440C was the first steel developed specifically as a blade steel, and was high end for most of the 20th century. I agree that complaining that a knife is S35VN is a testament to how fortunate we are that the steel industry is robust and specialized enough that what would have (and is still if you consider the tonnage of structural steel manufactured annually) been considered an extremely niche market steel is in sufficient supply that it loses it's lustre to nerds like us. I've also been surprised at the amount of knives being released in M390/20CV/204P recently, and also think it will be interesting to see which alloy becomes "the new 440C"
I'm also thinking it will most likely be magnacut. I got my dad a hogue deka 2 in magnacut and he loves it. I'm lukewarm on magnacut; I don't place much value on stainlessness and there are other steels that do everything else magnacut does, but better.
Personal preferences: 3v for outdoor fixed blades. Magnacut or vanax for daily pocket knives.
S45vn is my pick for more availability and lower cost, if you can't get your hands on magnacut or vanax.
I have a Herman Ishtar in M398 that I don’t know if I will ever need to sharpen, it arrived from Polish Custom knives almost as sharp as a Rockstead!
But, I just received the new Two Sun in M398 this past week. It arrived with a terrible edge, half the edge still had a burr. So I put it on my Worksharp with my Venev Cerberus Dog Series Dual Side Diamond stones and it sharpened about like M390 or so. I could tell it wasn’t too hard. It took a razor sharp edge and now I will see how long it last.
But being a sort of heavy knife I probably won’t carry it much more than I carry the Herman.
I would love to see where HAP40 places here.
I love these videos. Always curious to hear the perspective of someone who actually uses their knives, because I certainly do not have your skills. Also loved the double tracked Elmax bit. Made me laugh. Probably not intentional, but that’s what makes it funny.
After being a knife snob for years I realized none of the steels mattered when you actually use your knives like I do.
I sold my entire collection off (except 4 BMs and a spyderco shamen) and buy the cheap BM knock offs...now I don't give a crap if I lose them, scratch them, chip the edge or just break them. It's like weighs been lifted off my shoulders.
theres a fun thought experiment that goes a bit like “if someone changed all your blades to vg10 without you being able to physically notice, how soon would you notice from usual wear and tear”. Even I would be a while I would
think outside of cuttin rope ☺️
@@CedricAda agreed 110%.
I had a similar epiphany with fishing gear!
That first comment made me chuckle. I'm sitting behind my Edge pro apex 4 sharpening my Bark river Gunny in 3V, yep it's nice to watch your videos in the background!
Pete likes knives again!
Good days for the community!
As the bloke from " Sharpens Best " RUclips Channel says " Thin means sharp, Sharp means thin " If you have sharpened a blade edge to a mirror finish razor sharp edge, It`s going to be so thin it to be quite easy to blunt or chip that edge, The practice among many is to have a dedicated fine sharp edge knife for certain tasks, And another blade either on the same handle or another knife that has a more wider angle edge for general use, All of the steels are in this video are good quality, As to rust, Well they are always a sign of neglect or you have too many knives to look after
Really shocked you rated arrpm9 so high...you have me looking at them a lot closer now..is it likely that toughness is higher than 9rc for this?
Possibly, if only because it's more homogenous from being manufactured via powder metallurgy.
Not gonna lie. Arrpm9 is kinda dog water.
@@tacticalcenter8658 ... Agreed, I would never ever buy a knife with Ar rpm9 steel in it. NEVER...
21:40 I'm happy with my large Crooked River in S30V. This reminds me, I need to strip it and clean it again. Good steel but the knife collects some crud in vital parts.