Fyi, whilst the blr is drained remove the pressure guage and check for blockages/debris. Also stick a screwdriver down the prv manifold into the pressure guage hose and check for blockages in the hose into the back of the pump. Common place for blockages. Another place which gets blocked commonly is the water pressure sensor, top right on the bi-thermal heat exchanger. Remove, clean and refit. Good vid though.
Your right, but this boiler was clean. Guage worked, but got stuck at that pressure. Worked throughout the rest of the range though so not too concerned. As you say it has a water pressure switch (which works) so it will cut off if too low. Good comment! Thanks :-)
Cheers for that, is it possible to take the top (red) part off only whilst PRV still attached ? I have a 24cdi and there is only a few mm clearing on the right so not sure how I can pull the whole PRV out without some serious bending on the plastic manifold. Thanks
I have a Worcester 28i combi boiler, no hot water unless i turn on central heating then the pressure goes up and i have hot water, any clue what this could be ?
Hi mate I'm hoping you can help. I have a Greenstar 24i junior. There is no hot water but when I run the hot tap the heating comes on and I can feel the hot water flowing from the boiler. Am I right to assume its the diverter valve? Can the valve be removed and cleaned or does it have to be replaced? Also I dont suppose you know of a guide anywhere to do it. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Andrew
Andrew, unless your gassafe registered you shouldn't work on boilers. The diverter on the boiler is stuck or the actuator has failed. Or the plate heat exchanger is blocked. Get an engineer from the gassafe website and he will sort you out quickly. :-)
So potentially the tenant topped up too high, with a flat vessel which caused the prv to let by daily? Any chance the bit of muck on the prv caused it to stick open which made it a daily job?
HeatingGeek if it was reversed at the pressure was rock bottom when entering would you say it was worth going through the same process of cleaning prv, putting it back in and topping up pressure to see how it holds?
HeatingGeek sorry if I keep popping up in your notifications I’m switching between your videos and the election :/ It used to frustrate me to a whole new level when I used to turn up on social housing jobs to find lazy engineers popping the prvs to drain down and damaging perfectly good prvs. Problem is on those types of contracts you don’t get the time to try to repair parts it’s simply replace straight away. So never got the chance to have a go at repairing one. The firm I used to work for allowed 15mins for a service and blagged it as a safety inspection. I mean if you are doing a service in 15 mins I can only imagine the only thing your servicing is the doorbell
I clean 90% of prvs and don't ever have issues. Again this is an insurance job. I only get paid to fix one issue. One fee which is non negotiable. :-) Patch and go.
Ok mate fair enough cleaning an old prv but with that amount of pressure and debris that boiler is ferked. I'd be looking at minimum full system clean, new prv and gauge, the pipe to the gauge will be nadjed so wil need cleaning. But I'd also have a chat with them when they get back and advise on a new boiler. Unless you like repeat visits and annoyed customers. As I say just my five penneth worth.
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Hi I got same junior 24i the red light flashing but won't reset just keeps flashing so no hot water or heating
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Nice one Ollie. That was a useful one. Bags of space in there unlike the newer ones where prv is almost impossible❤
yeah, Not too bad. :-)
I still haven't understood how to increase pressure if it's below 1? Please can someone explain.
You should have a filling loop somewhere. You will find more basic videos on another channel. This is meant for engineers really.
other channels should be able to help you. Sorry I cant. Good luck with it.
I have the same boiler but can't see where to actually top up the water pressure?
Hi ..i need your help ..now the boiler pressure have crossed 3 plus..what should i do ??
Fyi, whilst the blr is drained remove the pressure guage and check for blockages/debris. Also stick a screwdriver down the prv manifold into the pressure guage hose and check for blockages in the hose into the back of the pump. Common place for blockages.
Another place which gets blocked commonly is the water pressure sensor, top right on the bi-thermal heat exchanger. Remove, clean and refit. Good vid though.
Your right, but this boiler was clean. Guage worked, but got stuck at that pressure. Worked throughout the rest of the range though so not too concerned.
As you say it has a water pressure switch (which works) so it will cut off if too low.
Good comment! Thanks :-)
Cheers for that, is it possible to take the top (red) part off only whilst PRV still attached ? I have a 24cdi and there is only a few mm clearing on the right so not sure how I can pull the whole PRV out without some serious bending on the plastic manifold. Thanks
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Brilliant videos mate so well explained well done please keep them comming in thanks
Thanks. Got loads to come!
I have a Worcester 28i combi boiler, no hot water unless i turn on central heating then the pressure goes up and i have hot water, any clue what this could be ?
28i? RSF?
@@HeatingGeek yeah
@@HeatingGeek I've been told it's the " Flow Switch" sound right ??
@@bull1ttproof Could be, but then the pressure wouldn't make any difference.
@@HeatingGeek Well i managed to locate my filling loop and got the pressure back to 1.2 bar but still no joy.
Why was the pressure at 3 bar? was the filling loop left connected and letting by, you didn't say.
I don't know. Filling loop was ok. I guess the tenants toped it up before they went away???
Hi mate I'm hoping you can help. I have a Greenstar 24i junior. There is no hot water but when I run the hot tap the heating comes on and I can feel the hot water flowing from the boiler. Am I right to assume its the diverter valve? Can the valve be removed and cleaned or does it have to be replaced? Also I dont suppose you know of a guide anywhere to do it. Your help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew
Andrew, unless your gassafe registered you shouldn't work on boilers. The diverter on the boiler is stuck or the actuator has failed. Or the plate heat exchanger is blocked. Get an engineer from the gassafe website and he will sort you out quickly. :-)
Hi Oliver, is it possible to remove a PRV on a Junior 24i mk lll, without removing the hydraulic block, I am going to the job Friday. Cheers
Yes there are a few ways. There are some videos on youtube about it.
So potentially the tenant topped up too high, with a flat vessel which caused the prv to let by daily? Any chance the bit of muck on the prv caused it to stick open which made it a daily job?
Exactly that. :-)
HeatingGeek if it was reversed at the pressure was rock bottom when entering would you say it was worth going through the same process of cleaning prv, putting it back in and topping up pressure to see how it holds?
@@peterhyatt6751 If it was at rock bottom I would check the prv for dampness and proceed as required
HeatingGeek sorry if I keep popping up in your notifications I’m switching between your videos and the election :/
It used to frustrate me to a whole new level when I used to turn up on social housing jobs to find lazy engineers popping the prvs to drain down and damaging perfectly good prvs. Problem is on those types of contracts you don’t get the time to try to repair parts it’s simply replace straight away. So never got the chance to have a go at repairing one.
The firm I used to work for allowed 15mins for a service and blagged it as a safety inspection. I mean if you are doing a service in 15 mins I can only imagine the only thing your servicing is the doorbell
@@peterhyatt6751 Thats the whole gas industry. 15min service and then they wonder why no one cleans out a condense trap. :-)
Like the home made/adapted spanner 👍 think I’ll do something similar. Thanks for the tip.
Works a treat. Costs a few quid but defiantly worth it.
Top man, couldn't strip mine down, but 15 quid for a new one..i can swallow that..thanks for the info
im new to the channel the videos are really helpful where are u based in the uk
Hertfordshire/ North London
thanks for getting back to me
im based in Uxbridge wats ur company called i tried to Google your company name
I clean 90% of prvs and don't ever have issues. Again this is an insurance job. I only get paid to fix one issue. One fee which is non negotiable. :-) Patch and go.
Ok mate fair enough cleaning an old prv but with that amount of pressure and debris that boiler is ferked. I'd be looking at minimum full system clean, new prv and gauge, the pipe to the gauge will be nadjed so wil need cleaning. But I'd also have a chat with them when they get back and advise on a new boiler. Unless you like repeat visits and annoyed customers. As I say just my five penneth worth.
Great video!
In America you replace the PRV you cannot clean them. LOL 😂 so they can increase profits by adding cost to parts and labor
Sound like a plan. Charge customer for everything you possibly can!!! No cheap fix!!
That much debris indicates to me further problems WILL occur. I'd be having a chat about a new boiler. IMHO