Just a quick thank you as I've done this tonight. I know there's lots of rules and regs but couldn't get anyone for a couple of days and for an hour's work, worked a treat! Got someone out for a service in a few days to make sure we are all good. Cheers dude 🤟
I’m not a plumber but I was told my manifold had gone so I wanted to see what it was all about, may I say what a brilliantly explained video. We have now called a plumber who has confirmed that it was indeed the manifold. I did take off the outer casing to have a look myself before the plumber arrived but I 100% agree with you about the horrible little screws at the bottom of which I could only get 2 in of the six. Anyhoo, thank you for the video and have decided to leave it to the misses and plumber as I’ve got to go golfing, hang on a minute, my misses and plumber, alone, mmmmmmmm. 🤨
You need to watch the latest one then!!! As a sparks you will get it more than most. (My brothers a sparks) Check out the video here: ruclips.net/video/K0xNZPfqQ-M/видео.html
Just replaced a prv and expansion vessel on a greenstar. Nightmare but 3 hours later completed and a few quid in the hand. I'll be quicker next time thanks too your videos !,
HeatingGeek tell me about it! keep up the good work - always good to learn and brush up on new ways to get this stuff done. multimeter testing videos are useful.
Having just changed the flow manifold after watching this video (same pinhole leak) I have to say it was most helpful. Some tips I'd add, the replacement does not come with the top left screw - make sure you keep that to hand - this does need a long cross head screwdriver for best access. Fit the new clips in the block while out of the boiler, they can be difficult to get in. The Flow pipe is best left in the block and fitted in it before refitting the block else it's hard to do.
Nice video thanks. Got to replace one for a customer on Monday and was worried about getting the top white piece off but now feeling confident. Cheers!
awesome video dude, i have to tackle that job next week and i had no idea how to even start it till i watched this video. just wish the boiler wasn't 200mm off the floor making even harder to get in there and work on it.
Once again another excellent video, I had to change one of these yesterday for the 1st time and I had to take the gas pipe out. You made it look easy 👍
Use the same analyser as yourself just had it in for service and its come back with new soft buttons and new redesigned water trap with new style screw in water drain bung kane returned it in record time they seem to be a top notch company
They are. If the CO sensor was replaced let me know if you have any issues. Mine does have slightly more issues if its cold (Left in Van by mistake) now.
This may be a stupid question but I've got the same problem with the manifold and am going to replace it tomorrow... the fitting you put the hose on drains the boiler, but the manifold is for the hot water side so why close the central heating valves? I'm sure you saved me a huge clean up! Great video thanks for putting the time into making it.
@@HeatingGeek thanks for the reply, I wrongly assumed the systems were separate, except for the pressurising of the ch from the mains supply via the loop. Would seem to me that it would be more straightforward if they were but I clearly don't know much!
@@HeatingGeek as you are very kindly replying to me I'll just chuck another question your way. I noticed the pressure was at zero when the heating wasn't on, having typed this in I have tested the valve on the top of the expansion vessel, no hiss and possibly a little water. I assume the expansion vessel needs replacing but the boiler and heating has been working fine before the manifold leak. Did one cause the other? Why bother with an expansion vessel if it worked ok anyway? Just curious, I'll need to get someone in to change the expansion vessel as the flue is in the way.
I always sweep a small torch beam around, it will refract on the tiny jet of water and can be seen very well. But they are one bad boiler, I refuse to supply and fit them. But do have to fix them. But it just does to prove the power of advertising when customers say "we want a Worcester Bosch as they are the best boiler in the world".
Hi chap, great video, I have the same problem with my 38cdi boiler. What is the name of the part you've just replaced and does it come in a kit with everything needed? Thanks again
@@darrenhooper3457 you can come and fix mine, ISAR 30se. Will not retain pressure, looses it as soon as I fill the bloody thing. Coming to 10 years now. Thinking of changing it to a baxi.
Thanks for this video! It really helped me out! I changed my first flow manifold on one of these babies yesterday. Really glad I watch your video. You are a true boiler Genius! One handed worrier! I used both hands and it took me around 1.5 hours including drying out a PCB lol Thank you! Be lucky
Thanks for sharing, good demonstration/explanation. Only thing I'd suggest is - I find it easier to put the top metal washer in before fitting the unit in the boiler. It stays in. A lot less fiddly. Thanks again.
Heating Geek, thanks for sharing another fantastic video, nice to see the step by step way you do things & get little tips along the way. I hate touching iso valves & plastic filling loops etc😠 If you manage to get a fault finding course going, I'd be interested fella & please keep the videos coming, they're greatly appreciated brother. Love & peace to you & yours💖
@@HeatingGeek I did one of the last full apprenticeships with BG, finished it in 95 lol, last time I was in trade was just as condensing boilers were coming out,
I did a return (RH) Hydroblock on saturday on a Greenstar Junior. It took me longer than it should have as the brass nut that connects to the isolating elbow wouldn't fit into the replacement plastic unit with the new rubber washer on it. In the end I put the brass connector into the customers deep freeze and froze it for twenty minutes.....and lo and behold it went straight in. These plastic units are from Grundfos (well it says Grundfos on the diverter motor) and not good quality as loads of them fail. Worcester have never sorted this problem, unlike Ideal who have revised faulty plastics like on the Logic sump unit. One perhaps concludes that brass is still best ?
Good video again. Shame about the gauge lol! I always test the condense seals by syringing water down the flue sample point on the Worcesters, saves any unwanted call backs later with the condense seals leaking!
Hi, great video. First question was answered below - silicone grease for the new rings. Thanks. Second question - is it the hot water you're draining down using the condensate hose at the right of the boiler? Is it ok to just drain via sink tap (below boiler level)? Thanks
Hi. Thanks for your brilliant video and help. I swapped the part today. I forgot to re-open the heating return so the pressure didn't go up at first. Rookie mistake!
hi, thanks for your help, could I ask one more question please ? it looks like the Worcester boilers are not as good as they were with all the new plastic parts, could you recommend a cheaper boiler that would still be decent quality ?
Many thanks, I decided to go with an Ideal Logic 30kw to replace my leaking Worcester, I seen quite a few videos on RUclips showing leaking plastic parts on the Worcesters so that's put me off them a bit.
I got a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30i and i need to replace the expansion vessel, getting pressure problems and water is coming out of the schrader valve. Do i just need to isolate the cold feed valve on the boiler or the other flow and return valves too ? To drain the boiler, is there a turn lever on the drain valve to get water out flowing into a hosepipe ?
Are you gas safe? It is a big job and you will effect combustion when you do it. So a gas safe engineer would be a the only recommendation I could give you. :-)
Good video, I have the same kind of leak on my boiler so it will probably be the plastic part that you fitted that's leaking, I wouldn't want to try to fit a new one myself, could you give me an idea of how much it would cost for a plumber to do the job please ?
Great video again, I always give the o rings a spray with wd40/ac90 before dismantling it makes them so much easier to remove. Do you have the link for the injector cleaning pins.
Hi Heating Geek, when servicing the Worcester boilers, they seem to collect much more sediment in the condensate traps/heat exchanger sumps. Especially the CDI’s. All glowworm,Vailliants and most others don’t seem to have no way near as much, do you know why???
Any ally heat exchanger will collect the ally oxide in the sump/trap. The worse the combustion the more you see it. (I Think) Check the ratios on them properly and you should notice a pattern.
Yes. If you open this case you HAVE to check the Co2% and Ratios. Thats what the Gas regulations tell you. If something is wrong with the ratios it could be deadly in minutes.
how much do you charge for a left hand hydroblock to be replaced , do it quite regular at work, but cards in. what could be a price for such a job around northwest ? by the way i have u seen a technique that a wb trainer showed where the whole left hand block, right hand block ,plate ex, pump, prv etc comes out in one big piece all still connected together, a colleague of mine swears by this method
Yes, I have done that method a couple of times but I prefer to do it this way. Less to undo. Charge what you think is right for you. I wouldn't do it for less than...... :-) Make a rate your happy with. If the customer is happy too, then it's all good.
They changed this part. Then when i use the hot water, the pressure is shaking for 2 minutes between 1.40 bar and 1.60 bar. It goes up and down. Is that normal? Or the new part is broken? Or something else is broken?
I think Hilti do a thermal lance that should get that out a bit quicker mate !! Wb Yuk...still everyone keep putting them in....Your investing in Our Futures !!
Oh also the PRV change you mentioned video please, hate doing it on Worcesters,i can understand why its recommended shouldn't leave filing loops connected, as this is the customers not turning them off properly when topping up blowing the PRV causing many of that Issue. Having to remove the block to change them is crazy amount of work.
15mm gas supply and looks really grotty don’t envy u , must be insurance work cos wouldn’t be worth fixing . Good video, I fix boilers every day but I have learnt my lesson with Worcester
Thanks for sharing knowledge Mr wise man.. Have you got a video out there of the right hand side return unit replacement on greenstar combi? Keep up the good work man. Thanks
I'm sorry I haven't ever replaced it. I would pull the lot out probably. I would always approach it like i had to remove it all but try and do just the right while I'm at it, Good luck :-)
Great video. Quick question why did you choose to max and min boiler from the governor as opposed to the controls? I find some manufacturers are not to fond of having the burner settings changed. Your insight would be appreciated.
Negative fan air pressure test proves heat exchanger is clean and within scope so then adjustment of CO2 % on Max rate and Min rate must be carried out on the gas valve.........ONLY by qualified Gas Safe engineers who own and are qualified to use a combustion analyser!
Paul Kramer It’s not a bad idea Paul & I can’t think of any other manufacturers that recommend this?? However I’m not overly convinced it’s the best way to check a pre-gassed Burner.
@@TheDickPuller It's whats specified in the MI. I always check high/low pressure on these boilers. It doesn't take long. Incorrect commissioning of and appliance slowly kills it. Or the the people living there. Some of these appliances have never been serviced. Worcesters are overrated. I don't get many callbacks on my installs per-say. But I've changed many fans on the Jr and Si range, common occurrence.
ghostmanromeo uk 100s of fans mate. A very common problem with Whoofter Botch boilers. I hate them, they’re snake oil boilers. More & more gas engineers are seeing how poorly designed & constructed they really are!! Changing fan speeds on many boilers is not uncommon, in fact I was Commissioning Ariston boilers today & the parameters of the fan speed were checked & could be adjusted. Their Clas One range is a fantastic wee great value boiler, amazing performance & CH turn down ratio etc.
Not replaced on this occasion ( know by price charged) but it has never liked cold van and has failed to show various readings on many occasions but a heat up in front cab usually fixes issue
The vessel may just need pumping up. Get it checked when the manifold is being done. When you compress air the water vapour condenses out of it. A little water is normal in a vessel.
is it dangerous if this issue isn't resolved asap? i have the same problem and the noises sound like its ready to blow which scares me!! please can anyone let me know if this is a dangerous situation for the boiler to be in?
Its a LED lenser. They are quite expensive tbh but I also use it when I ride my bike at night. (like tonight). They are rechargeable and very very bright,
Water pressure gauge onto the drain point would give you an indication of system pressure. I've done it with my rothenberger mains pressure test guage before. Crack it open slightly after connecting the gauge. 😊
I'm doing this exact thing with my greenstar boiler. What should i grease the plastic manifold with before putting it back together? You've been a life saver too. Thanks for your uploads
Just grease anything that has an o ring ,it makes life so much more easier, and if you can take a photo of the push clips before you take maniflold out or you will be pissing in the wind with trying to push them in, one clip not in right and you best have your scuba diving gear with you . Good luck
I have never taken the boiler of the wall for a prv. I have filmed it a couple of times but not sure I want to put it out. I do it 3 different ways. depends on the location.
Great video, I've got to say the Worcester's seam like a pile of shite. How long do they typically last before all the plastic parts start cracking ? I clocked the yellow paint marks on the spanner's ( all my tools at work are marked yellow too, so I know which are mine as we have 15 sets of identical tools at work )
@@HeatingGeek You could just make a dvd, sure plenty of us who watch your videos would buy them or just do training videos with clips that you already post describing common fault finding tips and tricks a sort of A/Z of problems, post them as you do now on you tube, top man keep them coming..
just had an Energy Expert (salesman) come round from EON, tell me i must have a Worcester Bosch boiler as they are far superior to any other make.....but they look like they are full of plastic and difficult to repair.........I'm going to choose between Viessmann or Intergas
By far one of the best vids on this I've seen thanks captain
Just a quick thank you as I've done this tonight. I know there's lots of rules and regs but couldn't get anyone for a couple of days and for an hour's work, worked a treat! Got someone out for a service in a few days to make sure we are all good. Cheers dude 🤟
Make sure they check around the red seal with a combustion analyser. Very prone to failing on that boiler.
I’m not a plumber but I was told my manifold had gone so I wanted to see what it was all about, may I say what a brilliantly explained video. We have now called a plumber who has confirmed that it was indeed the manifold. I did take off the outer casing to have a look myself before the plumber arrived but I 100% agree with you about the horrible little screws at the bottom of which I could only get 2 in of the six. Anyhoo, thank you for the video and have decided to leave it to the misses and plumber as I’ve got to go golfing, hang on a minute, my misses and plumber, alone, mmmmmmmm. 🤨
Brilliant video I'm an electrician and found this really interesting I've subscribed thanks and all the best from Scotland
You need to watch the latest one then!!! As a sparks you will get it more than most. (My brothers a sparks) Check out the video here:
ruclips.net/video/K0xNZPfqQ-M/видео.html
Just replaced a prv and expansion vessel on a greenstar. Nightmare but 3 hours later completed and a few quid in the hand. I'll be quicker next time thanks too your videos !,
Thanks. I will one day do the PRV 3 different ways and film it.
Hi mate, I’m replacing prv and the vessel on Worcester GS 25si tomorrow , any advise will be much appreciated. Thanks
‘one hand warrior’ - love it!
keep up the god work.
Its hard work fixing boilers with one hand. :-)
HeatingGeek tell me about it! keep up the good work - always good to learn and brush up on new ways to get this stuff done. multimeter testing videos are useful.
Having just changed the flow manifold after watching this video (same pinhole leak) I have to say it was most helpful.
Some tips I'd add, the replacement does not come with the top left screw - make sure you keep that to hand - this does need a long cross head screwdriver for best access.
Fit the new clips in the block while out of the boiler, they can be difficult to get in.
The Flow pipe is best left in the block and fitted in it before refitting the block else it's hard to do.
Sorry I didn’t respond to this comment. I didn’t see it in my feed. :-(
Brilliant video, not one of the nicest jobs to get lumbered with, I learn a lot watching you videos, thanks for sharing.
Glad you like them. :-)
Will be doing this job tomorrow for first time, this will be a great help👍👍
Thanks for posting.
Its easer than it looks. :-)
Nice video thanks. Got to replace one for a customer on Monday and was worried about getting the top white piece off but now feeling confident. Cheers!
Perfect. Thats why I do them. :-)
Thanks for watching.
awesome video dude, i have to tackle that job next week and i had no idea how to even start it till i watched this video. just wish the boiler wasn't 200mm off the floor making even harder to get in there and work on it.
Done quite a few of these ...absolute PITA when fitted in a kitchen cupboard. Well done mate .. could to watch another techie guy
Not the best videographer but I like fixing stuff.
Once again another excellent video,
I had to change one of these yesterday for the 1st time and I had to take the gas pipe out. You made it look easy 👍
Glad it helped :-)
Great video i appreciate how hard it is with one hand
I need to get better at using the Gopro.
Use the same analyser as yourself just had it in for service and its come back with new soft buttons and new redesigned water trap with new style screw in water drain bung kane returned it in record time they seem to be a top notch company
They are. If the CO sensor was replaced let me know if you have any issues. Mine does have slightly more issues if its cold (Left in Van by mistake) now.
This may be a stupid question but I've got the same problem with the manifold and am going to replace it tomorrow... the fitting you put the hose on drains the boiler, but the manifold is for the hot water side so why close the central heating valves? I'm sure you saved me a huge clean up! Great video thanks for putting the time into making it.
The manifold leaks on the mains water side but has both heating and mains water in it. :-)
@@HeatingGeek thanks for the reply, I wrongly assumed the systems were separate, except for the pressurising of the ch from the mains supply via the loop. Would seem to me that it would be more straightforward if they were but I clearly don't know much!
@@findbluesky They are completely separate but run through the same manifolds. Just to keep us on our toes. :-)
@@HeatingGeek as you are very kindly replying to me I'll just chuck another question your way. I noticed the pressure was at zero when the heating wasn't on, having typed this in I have tested the valve on the top of the expansion vessel, no hiss and possibly a little water. I assume the expansion vessel needs replacing but the boiler and heating has been working fine before the manifold leak. Did one cause the other? Why bother with an expansion vessel if it worked ok anyway? Just curious, I'll need to get someone in to change the expansion vessel as the flue is in the way.
I always sweep a small torch beam around, it will refract on the tiny jet of water and can be seen very well. But they are one bad boiler, I refuse to supply and fit them. But do have to fix them. But it just does to prove the power of advertising when customers say "we want a Worcester Bosch as they are the best boiler in the world".
I know. Its weird that they have such a good rep
I hate worcesters , piss poor to work and overpriced.
Tidy job fella 👍
Proper impressed 👏
Hi chap, great video, I have the same problem with my 38cdi boiler. What is the name of the part you've just replaced and does it come in a kit with everything needed? Thanks again
Don’t know why people complain about Worcester’s! Fixing them pays my mortgage. Love them!
Isars pay for my holidays 👍🏻
Thats very true. 5 years ago Isars paid all my bills and holidays.
Never a truer statement im quite sad and like the isars only because i have a van stock that can fix anything on them
@@darrenhooper3457 Its a shame when good paying boilers get replaced!!
@@darrenhooper3457 you can come and fix mine, ISAR 30se. Will not retain pressure, looses it as soon as I fill the bloody thing. Coming to 10 years now. Thinking of changing it to a baxi.
Thanks for this video! It really helped me out! I changed my first flow manifold on one of these babies yesterday. Really glad I watch your video. You are a true boiler Genius! One handed worrier! I used both hands and it took me around 1.5 hours including drying out a PCB lol Thank you! Be lucky
Glad it helped. The job looks more difficult than it is. :-)
HeatingGeek thanks bro
Great video and one handed
Found it very useful cheers
No problem. :-)
What’s the name of this part please? Is it the same on a junior 28i? Flow unit assembly? Thank you
Thanks for sharing, good demonstration/explanation. Only thing I'd suggest is - I find it easier to put the top metal washer in before fitting the unit in the boiler. It stays in. A lot less fiddly. Thanks again.
I do too. I forgot on this one. :-) Well spotted
Heating Geek, thanks for sharing another fantastic video, nice to see the step by step way you do things & get little tips along the way.
I hate touching iso valves & plastic filling loops etc😠
If you manage to get a fault finding course going, I'd be interested fella & please keep the videos coming, they're greatly appreciated brother.
Love & peace to you & yours💖
Thanks. Im trying to sort some training stuff out but it takes a lot of time!!!
Top job again Ollie, those cases are a night mare to put back on!!!!! Also the trap nut as you said is tricky.
I really don't like the trap nut. Its very sticky when tightening so your never too sure if its tight or not,
My same boiler the water tank connected to that pipe is full should I empty that water tank thing? It’s the size of my hand
I've got to do one of these tomorrow this is a great help thanks.
Glad it helped
Hiya heating geek,do you do any work around the Nottinghamshire area?
I have this exact problem (I think anyway)
did you have to turn the gas off at the metre? or just isolate the water at the boiler and turn it off?
Great videos mate, really helpful, I'm returning to trade after a long time out of it, and it's a steep learning curve,
Its changed a lot since 2005. Most of the boilers use the same technology now so its just component testing.
@@HeatingGeek I did one of the last full apprenticeships with BG, finished it in 95 lol, last time I was in trade was just as condensing boilers were coming out,
@@jimbo-ed3kc Thats what I mean. Condensing boilers are very different. You'll pick it up no problem. :-)
@@HeatingGeek getting there mate, keep up the good work and videos
@@jimbo-ed3kc Thanks. :-)
I did a return (RH) Hydroblock on saturday on a Greenstar Junior. It took me longer than it should have as the brass nut that connects to the isolating elbow wouldn't fit into the replacement plastic unit with the new rubber washer on it. In the end I put the brass connector into the customers deep freeze and froze it for twenty minutes.....and lo and behold it went straight in. These plastic units are from Grundfos (well it says Grundfos on the diverter motor) and not good quality as loads of them fail. Worcester have never sorted this problem, unlike Ideal who have revised faulty plastics like on the Logic sump unit. One perhaps concludes that brass is still best ?
Brass was always the best. No conclusion needed. We always knew. :-)
Awesome in depth explanation once again. Top quality keep it up mate.
Thanks. :-)
Good video again. Shame about the gauge lol! I always test the condense seals by syringing water down the flue sample point on the Worcesters, saves any unwanted call backs later with the condense seals leaking!
Good idea
Love your videos brother.allway helpfull
Glad you like them! Thanks for watching them :-)
Hi, great video.
First question was answered below - silicone grease for the new rings. Thanks.
Second question - is it the hot water you're draining down using the condensate hose at the right of the boiler?
Is it ok to just drain via sink tap (below boiler level)?
Thanks
No, its not mains water. Its heating system water.
Thank you. That helps.
Is the water inside the component being exchanged domestic hot water?
@@gkelly9883 Its both waters. The mains is what leaks but the manifold holds both waters.
@@HeatingGeek Thank you so much. I'm getting a diagram in my head now 👍
Hi.
Thanks for your brilliant video and help. I swapped the part today.
I forgot to re-open the heating return so the pressure didn't go up at first. Rookie mistake!
What a coincidence I’m doing this today! I’ve done a few of these now. Hate working on Worcester’s they feel cheap & nasty
The only issues are cutting your hands and sometimes getting the pipes out can be a pig. Easy enough though.
Very thorough, excellent vid dude.
Thanks . :-)
hi, thanks for your help, could I ask one more question please ? it looks like the Worcester boilers are not as good as they were with all the new plastic parts, could you recommend a cheaper boiler that would still be decent quality ?
Most boilers are similar quality. Get a really good installer and you won't go wrong.
Many thanks, I decided to go with an Ideal Logic 30kw to replace my leaking Worcester, I seen quite a few videos on RUclips showing leaking plastic parts on the Worcesters so that's put me off them a bit.
Fantastic Video! Thank you for shring.
Glad you enjoyed it! Get the Garlic out. :-)
I got a Worcester Bosch Greenstar 30i and i need to replace the expansion vessel, getting pressure problems and water is coming out of the schrader valve.
Do i just need to isolate the cold feed valve on the boiler or the other flow and return valves too ?
To drain the boiler, is there a turn lever on the drain valve to get water out flowing into a hosepipe ?
Are you gas safe? It is a big job and you will effect combustion when you do it. So a gas safe engineer would be a the only recommendation I could give you. :-)
Good video, I have the same kind of leak on my boiler so it will probably be the plastic part that you fitted that's leaking, I wouldn't want to try to fit a new one myself, could you give me an idea of how much it would cost for a plumber to do the job please ?
Where are you? I charge about £175 to do this job with the part. Sometimes I win sometimes I lose.
@@HeatingGeek I thought it would be around that, many thanks for quick reply.
@@HeatingGeek p.s. i am in scarboro but i think it will be better to get a new boiler as ours is over 10 years old.
Great vid Thanks Geek.
Having a cuppa before I do my first one.
Much appreciate the vid
Thats why its there!! Cuppa in the van, quick look on RUclips ,no worries. Get stuck in.
Great video again, I always give the o rings a spray with wd40/ac90 before dismantling it makes them so much easier to remove.
Do you have the link for the injector cleaning pins.
craig Stanton Oh fuck, I wouldn’t put that stuff near a boiler mate, get some silicone based spray!!
Fibre Washer it’s only fish oil, it’s only for dismantling, rebuild with silicone grease
craig Stanton you’d need to remove every trace of WD40 before you replace an O ring, that stuff eats O rings!!
Not after the researching the affects of it on o rings, after 2 years no change in elasticity, -0.0001 % loss in overall diameter.
Good video mate learnt some good points from it
Thanks for watching. :-)
Hi Heating Geek, when servicing the Worcester boilers, they seem to collect much more sediment in the condensate traps/heat exchanger sumps. Especially the CDI’s. All glowworm,Vailliants and most others don’t seem to have no way near as much, do you know why???
Any ally heat exchanger will collect the ally oxide in the sump/trap. The worse the combustion the more you see it. (I Think) Check the ratios on them properly and you should notice a pattern.
HeatingGeek top man, thanks for the reply! I will keep an eye out
Replaced loads this year and last. All of them not fitted with little expansion vessel.
If you can't check the Co2 levels, would you advise against doing this Job?
Yes. If you open this case you HAVE to check the Co2% and Ratios. Thats what the Gas regulations tell you. If something is wrong with the ratios it could be deadly in minutes.
how much do you charge for a left hand hydroblock to be replaced , do it quite regular at work, but cards in. what could be a price for such a job around northwest ?
by the way i have u seen a technique that a wb trainer showed where the whole left hand block, right hand block ,plate ex, pump, prv etc comes out in one big piece all still connected together, a colleague of mine swears by this method
Yes, I have done that method a couple of times but I prefer to do it this way. Less to undo. Charge what you think is right for you. I wouldn't do it for less than...... :-) Make a rate your happy with. If the customer is happy too, then it's all good.
Is this an expensive job? What would an engineer charge for parts and labour?
They changed this part. Then when i use the hot water, the pressure is shaking for 2 minutes between 1.40 bar and 1.60 bar. It goes up and down. Is that normal? Or the new part is broken? Or something else is broken?
Its probably normal.
That was very helpful.thanks mate
Thanks. It wasn't the nicest boiler to work on. :-)
Great vid really helpful thanks.
Thanks. :-)
I think Hilti do a thermal lance that should get that out a bit quicker mate !! Wb Yuk...still everyone keep putting them in....Your investing in Our Futures !!
Thanks. :-)
Oh also the PRV change you mentioned video please, hate doing it on Worcesters,i can understand why its recommended shouldn't leave filing loops connected, as this is the customers not turning them off properly when topping up blowing the PRV causing many of that Issue. Having to remove the block to change them is crazy amount of work.
I will get all three methods filmed as soon as I have 3 to do.
Great job. whereabouts are u based?. My Worcester 30CDI is l leaking. same problem..
Hertfordshire. Didn't you email me?
I've had to do this on a N>A> version of the same model. So much stuff in such a small spot.
Poor design too. Nothing needs to be that difficult to replace. :-)
15mm gas supply and looks really grotty don’t envy u , must be insurance work cos wouldn’t be worth fixing . Good video, I fix boilers every day but I have learnt my lesson with Worcester
Yep, insurance. The house wasn't as bad as the boiler. I think it must of been old tenants that got it so bad. I will try and fix anything.
Thanks for sharing knowledge Mr wise man.. Have you got a video out there of the right hand side return unit replacement on greenstar combi? Keep up the good work man. Thanks
I'm sorry I haven't ever replaced it. I would pull the lot out probably. I would always approach it like i had to remove it all but try and do just the right while I'm at it, Good luck :-)
Superb once again
Thanks. :-)
Great video. Quick question why did you choose to max and min boiler from the governor as opposed to the controls? I find some manufacturers are not to fond of having the burner settings changed. Your insight would be appreciated.
You can’t change the min and max on controls
Negative fan air pressure test proves heat exchanger is clean and within scope so then adjustment of CO2 % on Max rate and Min rate must be carried out on the gas valve.........ONLY by qualified Gas Safe engineers who own and are qualified to use a combustion analyser!
Paul Kramer It’s not a bad idea Paul & I can’t think of any other manufacturers that recommend this?? However I’m not overly convinced it’s the best way to check a pre-gassed Burner.
@@TheDickPuller It's whats specified in the MI. I always check high/low pressure on these boilers. It doesn't take long. Incorrect commissioning of and appliance slowly kills it. Or the the people living there. Some of these appliances have never been serviced. Worcesters are overrated. I don't get many callbacks on my installs per-say. But I've changed many fans on the Jr and Si range, common occurrence.
ghostmanromeo uk 100s of fans mate. A very common problem with Whoofter Botch boilers.
I hate them, they’re snake oil boilers. More & more gas engineers are seeing how poorly designed & constructed they really are!!
Changing fan speeds on many boilers is not uncommon, in fact I was Commissioning Ariston boilers today & the parameters of the fan speed were checked & could be adjusted. Their Clas One range is a fantastic wee great value boiler, amazing performance & CH turn down ratio etc.
Love using the condense pump for Worcester’s perfect fit but have to be careful like you say ha
I learned very quickly to hod them on!!! Got a wet groin on the first one that popped off.
+HeatingGeek haha got to be careful of the other end too!
@@tomadams6034 Yep. everyone has done that. Whys my shoes wet???? And the buckets empty.......
Not replaced on this occasion ( know by price charged) but it has never liked cold van and has failed to show various readings on many occasions but a heat up in front cab usually fixes issue
i'm no expert but could you have taken the pipe of the the other end of the presure gauge to see if that would reset the gauge?
It doesn't come out the other end.
My boiler was leaking really bad . They fixed it but now a few radiators dont get hot ? Any ideas please
Call them back?
The vessel may just need pumping up. Get it checked when the manifold is being done. When you compress air the water vapour condenses out of it. A little water is normal in a vessel.
Another great video. You've gained another subscriber.
@@lazenbytim Nice ONE. THANKS :-)
whats the best lubricant to use for the washers and o rings please?
thanks found it far down below, I guess regz40 ok
Excellent video as usual BTW ;)
Thanks. :-)
Hi, what grease do you use on the O-rings, so the pipe slides in easier?
amzn.to/3bspjDO
@@HeatingGeek Thanks ⚘
@@redseantlworld This is the cheapest you can get it. Food grade and 500g :-)
Could you do a video cleaning out the combustion heat exchanger. Do you have to use Worcester tools or have you made up your own tools?
I use the Worcester tool.
Brilliant. Now, if you could please do the right side, especially the diverter valve housing, I'll be set
I have still never done the RHS. I will film if i ever do it.
@HeatingGeek I ended up replacing everything on the water side. The manifold was cracked. Thanks again for the video. It helped me out.
@@everydaybiker Not the best designed boiler for repair but good when working well.
Fantastic Bro and thank you
Thanks for watching it!
Hi heating geek,how much would this actual job cost to repair on same model?
for me to do it would be about 170.
HeatingGeek cheers thanks
@@HeatingGeek hi
How much would you charge for this whole thing?
@@visheshagarwal5423 About 180 all in. £150 fixed labour plus the part.
@@HeatingGeek what is that part called ?
How I need to chat to you lol, I just replaced my pump and I cannot get her going pump seems to be on with heating off. Blue light flashing help lol
Hope you got it sorted. :-)
@@HeatingGeek yes it turned out to be the pcb board nothing I done just happened and bad luck. Lucky I kept a spare
One handed warrior love it hahahahaha
is it dangerous if this issue isn't resolved asap? i have the same problem and the noises sound like its ready to blow which scares me!! please can anyone let me know if this is a dangerous situation for the boiler to be in?
Get it checked by an engineer
What type of head torch you got there it looks unusual
Its a LED lenser. They are quite expensive tbh but I also use it when I ride my bike at night. (like tonight). They are rechargeable and very very bright,
Can you film a right hand block if you get one.
I'm waiting to get one. :-)
I did one last week ripped my hands apart 🤣🤣
Hi When are you doing the vaillant ecotec main heat engine flush waiting?
I done it on Thursday. I have loads of footage but haven't even got it in the editing software yet. It didn't go as planned but still got somewhere.
As you change flow manifold is there anything needs to do with auto air vent
No, shouldn't need to do anything.
Were did you get the cleaning needels from thanks
I linked to them in the description. :-)
@@HeatingGeek sorry can you send me the link iam not very up on technology lol
@@charliewillis8527 amzn.to/2L5f50u
@@HeatingGeek thanks tipical ther not available now can i have yours lol
@@charliewillis8527 amzn.to/2xFa5xg
They have them here. But they are more expensive. :-)
Great job on a terribly designed boiler
Thank you!
Keep up the good work mate.
I think you are a bit slow.
If you need some help let me know.
I can do them in about 45min. All the filming takes time!!! Next time you do one you wont need to call me now; ;-)
You must rattle through your gas exam when you sit it?
Sometimes. I'm still stuck at 10mb and 20mb on a soundness test..... WTF is this new stuff. Pipe sizing..... Volume..... errrrrr
Water pressure gauge onto the drain point would give you an indication of system pressure. I've done it with my rothenberger mains pressure test guage before. Crack it open slightly after connecting the gauge. 😊
Thats a good Idea, but sounds really messy if it goes wrong!!!
Worcester boilers might be expensive but they are so difficult to work on compared to a Main combi which is half the price.
They are difficult but once you have done it once or twice its no big deal. Thanks for watching. :-)
@@HeatingGeek thanks for sharing your knowledge
@@Hitngan no problem. thanks for watching.:-)
Really good video fella
Did you have a link for those injector cleaning pins?
Carb cleaning injector pins. I purchased mine from Ebay. Only a few quid. I use them on cooker injectors too.
ive replaced loads of these and just think 20 years ago worcester was a good boiler how times have changed
I was fitting the old CDI as an apprentice. Boilers are still going now. Cant say the same about a greenstar.
You got the link for them thin needles plse
Ebay, carburettor injector cleaning pins. Only a few quid 🤗
That's bedtime viewing sorted. Lol
Oh dear...... ;-)
Lol 😂
I'm doing this exact thing with my greenstar boiler. What should i grease the plastic manifold with before putting it back together?
You've been a life saver too. Thanks for your uploads
silicone grease. I have a link on my tool video to it. Silicone grease amzn.to/2Rnls4F
this is what I use obviously you can get smaller tubs or tubes.
Just grease anything that has an o ring ,it makes life so much more easier, and if you can take a photo of the push clips before you take maniflold out or you will be pissing in the wind with trying to push them in, one clip not in right and you best have your scuba diving gear with you . Good luck
@@dazdavison1 Too true, :-)
HeatingGeek great vids brother gas engineer
@@dazdavison1 Glad you like them. :-)
When are you doing the prv worst design ever. I take the boiler off the wall
I have never taken the boiler of the wall for a prv. I have filmed it a couple of times but not sure I want to put it out. I do it 3 different ways. depends on the location.
Been there got the t-shirt. It took out the gas valve aswell
Great video, I've got to say the Worcester's seam like a pile of shite. How long do they typically last before all the plastic parts start cracking ? I clocked the yellow paint marks on the spanner's ( all my tools at work are marked yellow too, so I know which are mine as we have 15 sets of identical tools at work )
The boilers last about 7-10 years and then fall apart. Sorry I didn't see this comment before. I need a new colour because my logo is purple. :-)
what purpose does the key have?
What key?
Have you ever thought of offering boiler fault finding training?
Yes. Im trying to sort something.
HeatingGeek Pleased to hear it HG, you’re very skilled & insightful regarding boiler repairs. You know your onions matey👍👍👍
@@TheDickPuller Thanks. :-)
@@HeatingGeek You could just make a dvd, sure plenty of us who watch your videos would buy them or just do training videos with clips that you already post describing common fault finding tips and tricks a sort of A/Z of problems, post them as you do now on you tube, top man keep them coming..
@@tysonbruno Its a lot harder than I thought.
I give up with Worcester plastic fittings. Intergas never go wrong.
But when they do they are a pain to fix.
good job...
Thanks. :-)
that is one of the 1st SI models - Don't bother, new boiler!
just had an Energy Expert (salesman) come round from EON, tell me i must have a Worcester Bosch boiler as they are far superior to any other make.....but they look like they are full of plastic and difficult to repair.........I'm going to choose between Viessmann or Intergas
All boilers have there issues now a days. A good installer is worth more than any brand of boiler.
All boilers are full of plastic
@@nicksims8184 Composite they call it. Jokers :-)