To remove the seal you can also drill a small pilot hole through the seal and put a self tapper in and use a metal Trim pry tool and pry on the self tapper to remove it. Be careful though not to go too far and Knick the surface behind the seal
Nice tutorial! That part looks pretty straightforward, at least you made it look that way, anyhow. Just the transmission removal part that seems a bit daunting. That tool you dug the seal out with - is it specially for that job or is it a random tool you had that does the job? Not seen one of those before. 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙 The rear main seal is pretty straightforward. Removing a transmission just has 20x more steps. That tool is a seal puller and it’s designed for pulling seals like that. I put a link in the descriptions for it.
thanks for another cool vid. I always appreciate the level of detail you provide. Do you have a video showing how to replace a faulty 4x4 transfer case control lever?
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks that actually coincides with the spare FMX bellhousing I bought to temporarily run my engine and check the new rear main seal before i reinstall my C6. So maybe Ford switched things up over the years?
Another thing you NEED TO check for is to make sure that the crankshaftwhere the seal "seals" is not grooved from the old bad seal wearing into it. A lot of times that will happen and you will need to get a Repair Sleeve for the crank shaft to go on prior to the seal installtion other whys the new seal will last about the first start up and you will be dumping oil out again.
Awesome Video, I just bought a 85 f150, it’s going to need plenty of work, I look forward to using your videos as a reference! quick question what brand rear main seal did you use? FEL-PRO?
Great video man, as always! Btw I have a question for you: I have a 1985 F150 with the 302 V8 EFI and for some reason it stalls while prolonged idling after reaching operating temperature and starts to surge like its not getting fuel after turning it off and starting it back up within 30 minutes. Any idea why? I've already replaced both front and rear fuel tanks and fuel pumps, the high pressure inline, changed the fuel filter, replaced the EGR, and changed the MAP sensor. I'm really stumped on this one and really need some help. The truck will drive perfectly fine from cold at highway speeds but I have to leave it turned off for 30 minutes at least before I drive it again or it'll start surging for fuel.
Have the same seal leak on my 1994 F150 5 liter engine. Had a new seal replaced along with new transmission. Shop advised the shaft had too much wobble for seal to properly seal. 188 thousand miles, engine strong. Any advice? Thanks.
So I’ve heard the same thing before and I have 255k miles. If that is true, it’s something we will both have to love with until we can rebuild the engine. However, those seals do have flexibility and so I don’t see why they would leak.
After recently installing my rebuilt transmission back to my truck I have a vibration/shakiness whenever it’s on. It does it in idle even when the truck is not moving and it was never like this before. You can feel it even when just sitting in the cab, so I was wondering could it be my flex plate or would it be an imbalanced torque converter? I did have a new rebuilt torque converter installed and I also did remove the flex to replace the seal so my guess is that it could be one of the two
Some leak from flywheel bolts open to oil in pan. Use loctite on threads . Oil leaks on flywheel and clutch disc ruins clutch. We just replaced F350 dump truck clutch oil coming out of bolt holes past threads . Ford factory manual says use sealer. Some holes are blind some go through some have porous holes . So many opposite opinions online . Just use sealer be safe .
The 1992 302 is also a one-piece seal. However...yes...you still have to lift the motor to drop the oil pan...because of the position of the motor mount crossmember. I think that's common with Ford trucks of that era. Don't have to touch the oil pan, though, to do the rear main seal. Where the oil pan becomes a pain in the ass is when you're changing the timing cover at the front of the engine....and you end up having to try to redo the curved piece of gasket shared between oil pan and timing cover Pretty tough to get it to seal exactly right.
@@joeidaho5938my truck is a 1995 f150 5.0 automatic 4x4 truck. Doing transmssion seals. U saying I have to jack up the motor to loosen oil pan gasket to do this job but yet not touch the oil pan? I'm confused. A 1992 is about the same truck as a 1995. Thanks for any advice. Appreciated
@@technicalitems731 What I said was that you don't have to drop the oil pan....if you're only doing the rear main seal. If you need to get into bottom of the engine, then engine needs to be lifted, in order to drop the oil pan.
I tend to think the exhaust pipe under the eng/trans is what ruins these seals (overheating at idle). I'm going to wrap from the headers all the way to the muffler to try and keep things cool.
@@TheMinuteMasters Tbh, I would have thought to grab a brass punch, but most likely would have ended up with the socket or whatever was within arm's reach.
Aw you were supposed to lightly oil/lubrucate the entire seal, BEFORE INSTALLING IT AND LIGHTLY hammer that seal in WITH A 4" PVC FITTING, DONT PRESS IT IN WITH jus your FINGERS OR ELSE WILL LEAK, IT MUST BE PRESSED ALL THE BACK .
Hi Stevey, I recently purchased a 96 F-150 with the 5.0 and have learned a lot with your videos. I have noticed a small coolant leak coming from the rear main seal. I don’t see any evidence of it coming from anywhere else. I also noticed that it won’t start leaking until after a couple days of the truck sitting and not running. Someone at the local auto part store said that it’s likely a freeze plug on the rear of the engine. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks so much for your videos!
Hi Howard! Nice! Good year and my favorite engine. I’ve never had a coolant leak from that area and I can’t think of why coolant would leak from that area. A freeze plug is a good guess. Otherwise, it could be the head gasket.
I forgot to mention that there is only 82,000 on the odometer as I was told it sat for a long time. Lots of rust on the underneath but engine runs great and no overheating.
Hey Stevey! I just did my saginaw swap using your video thank you! Hey have you ever changed out the 18b402 heater hose fitting? I checked your vids didn't see 1. But thought I'd ask. Mine broke at the fitting and gushes water all over. Noticed while doing my Saginaw swap.
Any idea what might cause my truck to shake while stop I’m drive for example when I’m stop at a light it starts shaking. It seems likes it’s problem after problem with this trucks
First, I’d read your codes. Is your issues is caused by a faulty sensor or electronic part, you will find out. Surging and shaking at idle could be a miss firing engine or bad torque converter. To make sure it’s not a misfire, you would have to go through and check air fuel and spark.
Either it’s a bad install, the crack is out of round or worn to the point where the gasket is ineffective, or there’s significant scoring on the mating surface that prevents a good seal.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the reply, it’s a new engine pretty much with about 8k miles, I think the block is in the mid 80’s. Can a mechanic determine if the it’s worn, out of round or if the matte is damaged without removing the engine?
@@MrTodo6969 gotcha. A mechanic could tell by using a dial gauge or a pair of calipers and just measure all the mating surfaces. I just had a thought, sometimes a leak from the back of the engine can come from the valve covers. Are you positive it’s coming from the newly replaced rear main seal?
Man, i should test my starter, i posted a video of my truck not starting. It use to if you put it in Neutral tilt the wheel a bit and lift, jiggle the shift column, tap 3 times and then it would turn over. I pinched the park shift siliniod green an black wire when I was putting the truck back together a month ago. My starter looks ok but the wires are mad corroded.
Honestly Rob, I would install new starter. If it fixes your problem then you’re good to go. If it doesn’t, you can always return the starter. This way you know for sure.
I don’t own a mechanic’s shop. So I don’t know what I would charge. However, since the transmission needs to be removed, I would assume the cost would be closer to $1000.
Where was the oil leaking from with the bad rear main seal? And how much was it leaking? My 95 has oil around where I'd think a bad rear main seal would leak but I do have some oil seepage from the driver side valve cover and it looks like the oil could possibly be from that.
The three main culprits for oil leaks on these trucks is the valve cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, and the rear main seal. You may have a leak from either one of those but replacing any of them is a step in the right direction. For me, typically a rear main seal drips right from the bell housing of the transmission.
@@TheMinuteMasters First of all thanks for the help. I get a slow but continuous leak right on my bell housing. It's slow enough to where it rarely drips oil onto my driveway where I park it and the dipstick always reads full. So far the only thing I can tell for certain is leaking is the drivers side valve cover gasket. Once I install the new gaskets I'll be able to tell if that is the sole source of the leak or just one of multiple. Currently I'm leaking much more coolant than oil so I'm more focused on fixing that. I'm only 21 so as you could probably guess I don't have particularly deep pockets meaning I can't just order every single part I need at once and slap 'em all on.
@@TheMinuteMasters This is the kind of video I've generally seen for the one-piece seals. Gasket sealer on the outside surface...and some lubrication on the inside surface, so it doesn't roll up on you as you seat it. This one is Thunderhead289. ruclips.net/video/G3lZg2mohVE/видео.html
@@joeidaho5938 Interesting. I get using the assembly lube, but the gasket sealer is a little out there. If that’s you were ever to pivot it would break the seal of the gasket sealer and potentially cause a leak. I’ve installed remain seals dry and I haven’t had an issue. The reason I’m replacing this seal, is when I first did it, I actually tore the seal. I didn’t have time to get another, so I didn’t replace it. Sure enough, a drip started within a day or so. I’ve been driving for a week now and no oil drips.
@@TheMinuteMasters Nice. I'm glad it solved your issue with it. I still see it as a point of debate, though....lol. I could see sealer serving a purpose, especially if there is wear or imperfections on the outside race. The layer of sealant is very thin, so not likely to move. If it did, my bet is that the dry seal would be causing a leak in the same situation. Outside seal should never move. Inside seal should be lubricated to accommodate spinning crankshaft, especially on startup.
@@joeidaho5938 You make a good point. I guess the most scientific way to decide would be to measure the seal surfaces with a dial indicator. If it showed any imperfections, then you would need the sealer.
@@TheMinuteMasters that’s great advice. I actually found something similar at harbor freight. Turns out the 4” magnetic bowls are the perfect size. Gonna try that for now.
Thank you watching your videos helped me change my rear main seal on my truck
You’re welcome man!🤙 glad to hear it!
Excellent video buddy always
To remove the seal you can also drill a small pilot hole through the seal and put a self tapper in and use a metal Trim pry tool and pry on the self tapper to remove it. Be careful though not to go too far and Knick the surface behind the seal
I’ve heard of this method. I kept it in the back of my head just in case.🤙
Drywall screws seem t work even better
Looking forward to seeing this. Gotta be much the same process for all the motors, I would think? Mines the 4.9 straight 6. 👍🏻
Yup! It’s pretty universal for sure.🤙
Good job Stevie
Thanks Francisco!🤙
love the orchard tractors in the background lol 😂
Yup! They are fun to drive!👌
Nice. Love your videos.
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
Good measure to take the old seal and a small hammer an make sure that seal is seated all the way
I need this lol probably pull the whole motor for a refresh.
I think most of these trucks this age on the road probably need a rear main seal. Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters mine looks like chewing gum hanging out 😂
Nice tutorial! That part looks pretty straightforward, at least you made it look that way, anyhow. Just the transmission removal part that seems a bit daunting. That tool you dug the seal out with - is it specially for that job or is it a random tool you had that does the job? Not seen one of those before. 👍🏻
Thanks man!🤙 The rear main seal is pretty straightforward. Removing a transmission just has 20x more steps.
That tool is a seal puller and it’s designed for pulling seals like that. I put a link in the descriptions for it.
thanks for another cool vid. I always appreciate the level of detail you provide.
Do you have a video showing how to replace a faulty 4x4 transfer case control lever?
Thanks man!🤙 Unfortunately, my truck is 2wd. So I don’t have a video on that. However I’m pretty sure that lever is only held in by a few bolts.
thanks for the helpful video. surprised your engine didn't have the passenger side dowel pin. My 1989 5.8l has both.
You’re welcome! So the dowels are oppositely installed. On stuck to the engine and the other stuck to the transmission.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks that actually coincides with the spare FMX bellhousing I bought to temporarily run my engine and check the new rear main seal before i reinstall my C6. So maybe Ford switched things up over the years?
I'm ready for this. I have the same problem and it's getting bad
It’s a good one! 🤙
Another thing you NEED TO check for is to make sure that the crankshaftwhere the seal "seals" is not grooved from the old bad seal wearing into it. A lot of times that will happen and you will need to get a Repair Sleeve for the crank shaft to go on prior to the seal installtion other whys the new seal will last about the first start up and you will be dumping oil out again.
Good point!
@@TheMinuteMasters For sure. Just constructuve criticism from me haha. Great video overall.
Awesome Video, I just bought a 85 f150, it’s going to need plenty of work, I look forward to using your videos as a reference! quick question what brand rear main seal did you use? FEL-PRO?
Thanks Josue! 🤙 I appreciate it. Nice! Those 80s bullnose trucks are cool! I can’t remember but you can’t go wrong with FEL-PRO.
Thank you so much for this video! Which seal material do you recommend? Rubber or PTFE?
You’re welcome! 🤙The seal I used, I believe was rubber. I don’t have a preference. Fel Pro is typically what I buy.
Great video man, as always! Btw I have a question for you: I have a 1985 F150 with the 302 V8 EFI and for some reason it stalls while prolonged idling after reaching operating temperature and starts to surge like its not getting fuel after turning it off and starting it back up within 30 minutes. Any idea why?
I've already replaced both front and rear fuel tanks and fuel pumps, the high pressure inline, changed the fuel filter, replaced the EGR, and changed the MAP sensor. I'm really stumped on this one and really need some help.
The truck will drive perfectly fine from cold at highway speeds but I have to leave it turned off for 30 minutes at least before I drive it again or it'll start surging for fuel.
Could be the ignition control module on the distributer or could be the distributer
Very helpful thanks! Didn't you already replace this seal when the engine was out in a different video, it already went bad since then?
You are correct. I did replace the seal, in 2015. I tore the seal during that install but didn’t bother replacing it then. Sure enough it leaked.
Have the same seal leak on my 1994 F150 5 liter engine. Had a new seal replaced along with new transmission. Shop advised the shaft had too much wobble for seal to properly seal. 188 thousand miles, engine strong. Any advice? Thanks.
So I’ve heard the same thing before and I have 255k miles. If that is true, it’s something we will both have to love with until we can rebuild the engine.
However, those seals do have flexibility and so I don’t see why they would leak.
use a round stock of the same circumstance for pushing the rear main seal inserted
Good idea!
After recently installing my rebuilt transmission back to my truck I have a vibration/shakiness whenever it’s on. It does it in idle even when the truck is not moving and it was never like this before. You can feel it even when just sitting in the cab, so I was wondering could it be my flex plate or would it be an imbalanced torque converter? I did have a new rebuilt torque converter installed and I also did remove the flex to replace the seal so my guess is that it could be one of the two
Those would be my guesses too. I’d run the codes on the engine and make sure other systems are go to go before you pull the transmission.
Some leak from flywheel bolts open to oil in pan. Use loctite on threads .
Oil leaks on flywheel and clutch disc ruins clutch.
We just replaced F350 dump truck clutch oil coming out of bolt holes past threads .
Ford factory manual says use sealer.
Some holes are blind some go through some have porous holes .
So many opposite opinions online .
Just use sealer be safe .
That’s a good tip!
Hello friend, I wanted to ask you a question, when you replaced the rear oil seal, what part number did you put?
I can’t remember exactly. I think a went with the better gasket that O’Reilly’s sold.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thank you. I am about to replace the seal and I want to find the correct one.
I always thought these were a two piece and were a bear to do because had to lift motor out to drop the oil pan. Maybe the 351's are different?
It sounds like to varies from engine to engine. I had a commenter say the 460 is a two piece seal.
The 1992 302 is also a one-piece seal. However...yes...you still have to lift the motor to drop the oil pan...because of the position of the motor mount crossmember. I think that's common with Ford trucks of that era. Don't have to touch the oil pan, though, to do the rear main seal. Where the oil pan becomes a pain in the ass is when you're changing the timing cover at the front of the engine....and you end up having to try to redo the curved piece of gasket shared between oil pan and timing cover Pretty tough to get it to seal exactly right.
@@joeidaho5938my truck is a 1995 f150 5.0 automatic 4x4 truck. Doing transmssion seals. U saying I have to jack up the motor to loosen oil pan gasket to do this job but yet not touch the oil pan? I'm confused. A 1992 is about the same truck as a 1995. Thanks for any advice. Appreciated
@@technicalitems731 What I said was that you don't have to drop the oil pan....if you're only doing the rear main seal. If you need to get into bottom of the engine, then engine needs to be lifted, in order to drop the oil pan.
@@joeidaho5938 thank you! Makes sense!
I tend to think the exhaust pipe under the eng/trans is what ruins these seals (overheating at idle). I'm going to wrap from the headers all the way to the muffler to try and keep things cool.
That could be, but that rear main seal very deep between the engine in the transmission. I think age typically get to that one.
"Get something soft to push against it..."... proceeds to grab an impact socket. 🙃
Hahaha! I meant to say something not sharp or has jagged edges.
@@TheMinuteMasters Tbh, I would have thought to grab a brass punch, but most likely would have ended up with the socket or whatever was within arm's reach.
Where you buy that tool
You can buy those seal pullers at just about any auto parts store.
Aw you were supposed to lightly oil/lubrucate the entire seal, BEFORE INSTALLING IT AND LIGHTLY hammer that seal in WITH A 4" PVC FITTING, DONT PRESS IT IN WITH jus your FINGERS OR ELSE WILL LEAK, IT MUST BE PRESSED ALL THE BACK .
I believe I did lube it up. The 4” PVC fitting is a great idea!
Hi Stevey, I recently purchased a 96 F-150 with the 5.0 and have learned a lot with your videos. I have noticed a small coolant leak coming from the rear main seal. I don’t see any evidence of it coming from anywhere else. I also noticed that it won’t start leaking until after a couple days of the truck sitting and not running. Someone at the local auto part store said that it’s likely a freeze plug on the rear of the engine. Do you have any thoughts? Thanks so much for your videos!
Hi Howard! Nice! Good year and my favorite engine.
I’ve never had a coolant leak from that area and I can’t think of why coolant would leak from that area. A freeze plug is a good guess. Otherwise, it could be the head gasket.
I forgot to mention that there is only 82,000 on the odometer as I was told it sat for a long time. Lots of rust on the underneath but engine runs great and no overheating.
@@howardgray-sh3de I would definitely scoop that up. Restaurant in the frame can be dealt with.
Hey Stevey! I just did my saginaw swap using your video thank you!
Hey have you ever changed out the 18b402 heater hose fitting? I checked your vids didn't see 1. But thought I'd ask. Mine broke at the fitting and gushes water all over. Noticed while doing my Saginaw swap.
Hey Josh! Nice! No more whine right! You’re welcome! 🤙
I haven’t but it seems like the part is readily available.
@@TheMinuteMasters correct! No more Ford whine! Also It was easy as pie to do a 3 point turn. Man possibly the best mod for our trucks!
@@joshmiller7870 Hell yeah! 🤙 The best mod ever!
Any idea what might cause my truck to shake while stop I’m drive for example when I’m stop at a light it starts shaking. It seems likes it’s problem after problem with this trucks
First, I’d read your codes. Is your issues is caused by a faulty sensor or electronic part, you will find out.
Surging and shaking at idle could be a miss firing engine or bad torque converter. To make sure it’s not a misfire, you would have to go through and check air fuel and spark.
Harmonic balancer the rubber part on the obs fords separates
If it still leaks what could be the problem? I had a mechanic install a new one in my 65 mustang 302, it still leaks, did he just do a bad job? Thanks
Either it’s a bad install, the crack is out of round or worn to the point where the gasket is ineffective, or there’s significant scoring on the mating surface that prevents a good seal.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks for the reply, it’s a new engine pretty much with about 8k miles, I think the block is in the mid 80’s. Can a mechanic determine if the it’s worn, out of round or if the matte is damaged without removing the engine?
@@MrTodo6969 gotcha. A mechanic could tell by using a dial gauge or a pair of calipers and just measure all the mating surfaces. I just had a thought, sometimes a leak from the back of the engine can come from the valve covers. Are you positive it’s coming from the newly replaced rear main seal?
@@TheMinuteMasters good question, I’m pretty sure is the seal but I’ll reach my hand back there along the covers and see what I find, thanks
Can you do this job without a lift?
All you need is a transmission jack and a couple of jack stands.
Man, i should test my starter, i posted a video of my truck not starting. It use to if you put it in Neutral tilt the wheel a bit and lift, jiggle the shift column, tap 3 times and then it would turn over. I pinched the park shift siliniod green an black wire when I was putting the truck back together a month ago. My starter looks ok but the wires are mad corroded.
Honestly Rob, I would install new starter. If it fixes your problem then you’re good to go. If it doesn’t, you can always return the starter. This way you know for sure.
@@TheMinuteMasters soooo, as i kick rocks, maybe it was the starter, just maybe it was the starter.
@@robbobsjobs8456 are you kicking rocks because you are stranded??
@@TheMinuteMasters I was lucky, i hit the starter with a wrench in the parking lot a few times, got it up an running enough to get home.
@@robbobsjobs8456 Nice! It’s funny how that Hollywood movie fix can actually work sometimes. Lol
Hello, how much do you charge to do a job like that? Thank you.
I don’t own a mechanic’s shop. So I don’t know what I would charge. However, since the transmission needs to be removed, I would assume the cost would be closer to $1000.
Where was the oil leaking from with the bad rear main seal? And how much was it leaking? My 95 has oil around where I'd think a bad rear main seal would leak but I do have some oil seepage from the driver side valve cover and it looks like the oil could possibly be from that.
The three main culprits for oil leaks on these trucks is the valve cover gasket, the oil pan gasket, and the rear main seal. You may have a leak from either one of those but replacing any of them is a step in the right direction. For me, typically a rear main seal drips right from the bell housing of the transmission.
@@TheMinuteMasters First of all thanks for the help. I get a slow but continuous leak right on my bell housing. It's slow enough to where it rarely drips oil onto my driveway where I park it and the dipstick always reads full. So far the only thing I can tell for certain is leaking is the drivers side valve cover gasket. Once I install the new gaskets I'll be able to tell if that is the sole source of the leak or just one of multiple. Currently I'm leaking much more coolant than oil so I'm more focused on fixing that. I'm only 21 so as you could probably guess I don't have particularly deep pockets meaning I can't just order every single part I need at once and slap 'em all on.
@@Acaidia You are most welcome man!🤙 Good plan! I was 21 once and didn’t have deep pockets. Take your time, and fix using new part sparingly.
do update review walk around on rig rebuild upgrades me friend
I’ve thought about doing that. I should because I do have lots of things I’ve done to my truck.
I always thought that people put sealant on the rear main seal, to ensure it stays sealed and doesn't move. Is it a point of debate, Stevie?
I’ve never heard that before. I’m not sure how that would work.
@@TheMinuteMasters This is the kind of video I've generally seen for the one-piece seals. Gasket sealer on the outside surface...and some lubrication on the inside surface, so it doesn't roll up on you as you seat it. This one is Thunderhead289.
ruclips.net/video/G3lZg2mohVE/видео.html
@@joeidaho5938 Interesting. I get using the assembly lube, but the gasket sealer is a little out there. If that’s you were ever to pivot it would break the seal of the gasket sealer and potentially cause a leak. I’ve installed remain seals dry and I haven’t had an issue. The reason I’m replacing this seal, is when I first did it, I actually tore the seal. I didn’t have time to get another, so I didn’t replace it. Sure enough, a drip started within a day or so. I’ve been driving for a week now and no oil drips.
@@TheMinuteMasters Nice. I'm glad it solved your issue with it. I still see it as a point of debate, though....lol. I could see sealer serving a purpose, especially if there is wear or imperfections on the outside race. The layer of sealant is very thin, so not likely to move. If it did, my bet is that the dry seal would be causing a leak in the same situation. Outside seal should never move. Inside seal should be lubricated to accommodate spinning crankshaft, especially on startup.
@@joeidaho5938 You make a good point. I guess the most scientific way to decide would be to measure the seal surfaces with a dial indicator. If it showed any imperfections, then you would need the sealer.
Yeah, mine isn’t fitting that easily. Was hoping to see some tricks, like using a gigantic socket…
So I have an easy solution. Buy a PVC pipe or fitting that is the same diameter as the gasket. Then use the fitting to put the seal in.
@@TheMinuteMasters that’s great advice. I actually found something similar at harbor freight. Turns out the 4” magnetic bowls are the perfect size. Gonna try that for now.
Always put grease on the seal lips.
Good tip! Thanks!
You can access the seal buy dropping the oil pan not the transmission.....
How do you get to the top part of the seal?
Make a video of it then
No your right cause the older broncos are 2 pieces not the f150 good video
"Random ass parking lot"?! I am shocked at your VULGARITY! I say to you, 'good DAY, Sir!"
Hahahahaha! I definitely haven’t said that in any of my other videos! Lol
@@TheMinuteMasters [Inserts Sam the Eagle GIF from The Muppet Show]
@@borderlineiq 😂😂😂
Dude, you forgot the locktite! Very important and dangerous not to use it.
For the flex plate?
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah, you are supposed to use it as a safety precaution. If the flex plate comes loose it is deadly.
Otherwise good video, though!
Actually?? Really actually factually??