My goodness this was great tutorial. Learned a lot from a well presented teacher and outstanding production value. Used this to change my own brakes and rotors. Guy finished the job in about 2.5 hours as a home gamer. Thank you and love from California
The best video I've seen on the topic. Short, concise, no dogs running in the background, good audio. Excellent. One question: is it easier to grease the back of the pads than the pistons and caliper arms? Some newbee hints: Don't use TOO much grease on the clips; they attach the pads and grease has a habit of migrating with errant finger contact to the pads. New sliders and boots are not that expensive at the local parts store. Also, when you first pry the pistons back, remember you are not just removing the old thin pads, but allowing room for the new thicker ones, so pry enough, or you will have to use a clamp to further retract the pistons before installing the new ones. One bolt on mine was 12mm instead of 14mm. Also, my kit didn't have enough grease in packets, so plan on buying some more at the local parts store.
+Sailor K Thanks for watching! The grease is there to help the pads slide properly and reduce brake noise. You do not need to go crazy with the grease, so just apply it like you see in the video and you should be good to go!
WELL... I am now going to do a much more thorough brake pad replacement than I had intended. I've been slapping them things in dry without any inspection of hardware for years. No harm in being reminded of how to take care of the other things while you are in there as well.
Haha!! I'm a girl and I just laughed my ass off when you switched the old hub assembly for a new one talking about, "that looks good enough!"!! Bahahah!! Thank you for that laugh!! Xoxo
First of all, out of every video I watched specific to changing the front pads & rotors on an S197, this is the ONLY one that mentions the slide pin flats orientation relative to the caliper during reinstallation. The Haynes manual doesn't even say anything about it. I have a question about the brake pad reverse tensioning springs. I bought a Powerstop Evolution Coated Front & Rear Pads & Rotors kit. Yesterday I started my install and on the very last pad, the top spring popped off during installation. I found it and after about 20 mins managed to get it back on...only to have it pop off again when pushing the pad into place. Is this normal to have happen? Is this a big problem to not have one? In this video, the used pads that he's removing are both missing one of their two springs, but the new ones he installs have both springs on both pads and my used fomoco pads still have both springs per pad. Any info is appreciated.
Yeah . there was some heavy rust build up around the hub. Then one two three . its looks new. Nobody! Cleans wheel hub that good . not even a ford dealership would clean that hub . they would try to sell a (" gravy ticket") for that hub.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
My goodness this was great tutorial. Learned a lot from a well presented teacher and outstanding production value.
Used this to change my own brakes and rotors. Guy finished the job in about 2.5 hours as a home gamer.
Thank you and love from California
The best video I've seen on the topic. Short, concise, no dogs running in the background, good audio. Excellent. One question: is it easier to grease the back of the pads than the pistons and caliper arms? Some newbee hints: Don't use TOO much grease on the clips; they attach the pads and grease has a habit of migrating with errant finger contact to the pads. New sliders and boots are not that expensive at the local parts store. Also, when you first pry the pistons back, remember you are not just removing the old thin pads, but allowing room for the new thicker ones, so pry enough, or you will have to use a clamp to further retract the pistons before installing the new ones. One bolt on mine was 12mm instead of 14mm. Also, my kit didn't have enough grease in packets, so plan on buying some more at the local parts store.
+Sailor K Thanks for watching! The grease is there to help the pads slide properly and reduce brake noise. You do not need to go crazy with the grease, so just apply it like you see in the video and you should be good to go!
@@TRQ Thank you. Awesome video. Just finished my front brakes. Rears to come. Saved me $400 in labor.
"Next thing you wanna do is clean up the hub mating surface here, the part that touches the rotor", and it looks like a completely brand new part😂
Have to say, this is the best example of how to change the pads...👍👍👍👍👍
Details is accurate on how parts should replace. Thank you I learned something new that I didn’t even know
You’re the best. I don’t even have a ‘stand but you helped me out with my Honda figured I’d watch this one too
Excellent video. There are some critical clean up steps here that are not mentioned in other videos I’ve watched on this topic. Nice work !
might seem like a lot or extra, but is the right way to do the brakes......., good job!
Awesome instructional, the detail is just what I needed to tackle this myself.
I see when you say both pistons need to be pushed back at the same time but you stay in the same spot when trying to separate is that correct?
WELL... I am now going to do a much more thorough brake pad replacement than I had intended.
I've been slapping them things in dry without any inspection of hardware for years.
No harm in being reminded of how to take care of the other things while you are in there as well.
Haha!! I'm a girl and I just laughed my ass off when you switched the old hub assembly for a new one talking about, "that looks good enough!"!! Bahahah!! Thank you for that laugh!! Xoxo
+Jenniferlynn Smith Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Clean up the mating surface…or just replace the hub/bearing assembly Altogether?!?
First of all, out of every video I watched specific to changing the front pads & rotors on an S197, this is the ONLY one that mentions the slide pin flats orientation relative to the caliper during reinstallation. The Haynes manual doesn't even say anything about it.
I have a question about the brake pad reverse tensioning springs. I bought a Powerstop Evolution Coated Front & Rear Pads & Rotors kit. Yesterday I started my install and on the very last pad, the top spring popped off during installation. I found it and after about 20 mins managed to get it back on...only to have it pop off again when pushing the pad into place. Is this normal to have happen? Is this a big problem to not have one? In this video, the used pads that he's removing are both missing one of their two springs, but the new ones he installs have both springs on both pads and my used fomoco pads still have both springs per pad.
Any info is appreciated.
Manufacturers specs for caliper mounting bracket bolt is to replace bolt after disassembly.
God bless you man
+dTamerSam Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Yeah . there was some heavy rust build up around the hub. Then one two three . its looks new. Nobody! Cleans wheel hub that good . not even a ford dealership would clean that hub . they would try to sell a (" gravy ticket") for that hub.
Too extra